Nice. Another one: You may heat chassis by torch or heated gun around 60-70 *С. After that, primary shaft can be removed by hand. Best regards from Russia!
That was interesting, but, how do you get the shaft out, if it won't budge after endless hitting? I have been using the slide hammer. The housing from the from 1st gear end, looks as if it isn't fitting right, but is flush at the screw end. I'm looking for any ideas. Cheers Pete.
I assume you have removed the 3 little M6 counter sunk bolts from the input shaft 1st gear end bearing housing flange? Shoot me some pics and or video showing the issue r.111.r.turbo@ gmail .com
@@r-iii-rturbo9157 Thanks for getting back to me. Yes. The 3 bolts are removed. I'm using a modified slide hammer to take the Triumph adaptor. I did have full Torsional damper failure and the output gear was chewed on the output shaft. I'll shoot a video and take some pics tomorrow.
Since messaging you , I have managed to remove input shaft. It was tight and I bust a lug bearing housing. I was, carefully and evenly winding the bolts in... it happens!! I'm lucky, as I have a box of spares and there's a new one in the box. I do have another question. How do you, carefully, hold the output shaft, to tighten the nut to 145Nm. As it doesn't have legs, like the torsional damper shaft. Also which nut would you use on end of it Mine had the nut you stake into the groove.The replacement is a nut with Threebond in it. I do appreciate the video's you post, as they are very informative and detailed. I do hope I haven't been too cheeky, asking for help. Cheers Pete.
@@petergray1790 I clamped the chunky helical gear in a big bench mounted vice, between 2 bits of softish wood. I reused the stakeable nut and used some liquid Theebond 1305. The new nut you get from Triumph is as you say not stakeable and has the dry thread locker in it, but I prefer the original nut.
@@r-iii-rturbo9157 I did think about doing it that way. It just didn't seem right. As for the nut, I,m going to use the same one as the clutch, it has a bigger lip on it. The original nut, only has a thin lip. Mine came loose, I could remove it with my hand. Thank you very much for your help and keep the video's coming. They are very helpful and informative.
Nice. Another one: You may heat chassis by torch or heated gun around 60-70 *С. After that, primary shaft can be removed by hand. Best regards from Russia!
That was interesting, but, how do you get the shaft out, if it won't budge after endless hitting? I have been using the slide hammer. The housing from the from 1st gear end, looks as if it isn't fitting right, but is flush at the screw end. I'm looking for any ideas. Cheers Pete.
I assume you have removed the 3 little M6 counter sunk bolts from the input shaft 1st gear end bearing housing flange?
Shoot me some pics and or video showing the issue r.111.r.turbo@ gmail .com
@@r-iii-rturbo9157 Thanks for getting back to me. Yes. The 3 bolts are removed. I'm using a modified slide hammer to take the Triumph adaptor. I did have full Torsional damper failure and the output gear was chewed on the output shaft. I'll shoot a video and take some pics tomorrow.
Since messaging you , I have managed to remove input shaft. It was tight and I bust a lug bearing housing. I was, carefully and evenly winding the bolts in... it happens!! I'm lucky, as I have a box of spares and there's a new one in the box.
I do have another question. How do you, carefully, hold the output shaft, to tighten the nut to 145Nm. As it doesn't have legs, like the torsional damper shaft. Also which nut would you use on end of it Mine had the nut you stake into the groove.The replacement is a nut with Threebond in it.
I do appreciate the video's you post, as they are very informative and detailed.
I do hope I haven't been too cheeky, asking for help.
Cheers Pete.
@@petergray1790 I clamped the chunky helical gear in a big bench mounted vice, between 2 bits of softish wood. I reused the stakeable nut and used some liquid Theebond 1305.
The new nut you get from Triumph is as you say not stakeable and has the dry thread locker in it, but I prefer the original nut.
@@r-iii-rturbo9157 I did think about doing it that way. It just didn't seem right. As for the nut, I,m going to use the same one as the clutch, it has a bigger lip on it. The original nut, only has a thin lip. Mine came loose, I could remove it with my hand.
Thank you very much for your help and keep the video's coming. They are very helpful and informative.