Just because of people like you, I feel humanity has high hopes. This is great selfless service I'm going to do it on my F20. The mechanic here is asking me 250euros for the valve and 2 hours for replacement
Yeah mine was not burning any oil, then when the PCV started to go bad I lost about 250ml then it stayed there for a bit then dropped straight down to the min level which is about another 750ml then I changed the PCV valve. I showed what it was like in the video towards the end. But I changed it quick after it went wrong. I didn't keep topping it up.
I have a 116i 136ps F20 and the problem is when the motor is warm, and i let him in idle 3-5 min then i press the acceleration it’s coming out white smoke (not too much) do you think is coming from this valve ? Recently i changed it the oil with Motul, maybe he dont like it ?
You will be losing oil if its pcv, but white could be headgasket if its got water coming out the exhaust even after its warmed up. Hopefully it's not that.
When going full gas car starts to misfire on cilinder 2. When i keep the pedal in middle it goes normal and if i slowly keep it till the pedal is all the way down it goes normal. But when i immediately go full gas it starts to stutter/jerk. I usually let go of the gas when i have it but if i keep driving full gas the car shuts down cilinder 2 and gives me a misfire code. Already swapped coil 2&3 and it stays on 2. Maybe spark plugs ? Expert told me its carbon buildup in intake.
@@eroberer I would still try spark plugs just incase. Be careful of amazon/ebay etc though. Saw some video about ngk fakes. Probably better to go to a proper parts shop. Sounds a bit weird jerking though, do you use the fuel with injector cleaner in ever? Because mine was running badly on the cheaper petrol. But I always use 99 that has injector cleaner in it now. Even just putting one tank in might help.
@ hi thanks for your reply i really appreciate it. I always use injector cleaner once in a while also recently cause i thought it may help. About the fuel a few months ago before the problem i switched from dutch e10 95 to german e10 the cheapest, and one week ago i tried german e5 98 and i kind of notice more power but the stuttering is still there. When i got the stuttering at first i immediately thought spark plugs and i did put 4 new ngk platinum but when i started the car it was shaking on stationary, so i put back the old bosch ones and it didnt shake on stationary anymore. I do have to say the old ones were black (maybe cause of the oil consumption?) and spark plugs usually are browish not black. And there is a electode gap difference, with the bosch (0,8 i think) ones and ngk (0,6) so i thought maybe thats why. Expert told me it can be the carbon buildup on intake and to clean it and to just put some additives for the oil. Let me know what u think.
@@eroberer Yeah if you have oil consumption it is probably the PCV valve is torn like mine was in the video. The pipe from the PCV goes back into the intake as well. It's direct injection engine so most people get the intake valves walnut blasted now. But it's pointless if the PCV is still broken because it will get oil build up again quickly. I would probably do the PCV valve first see if the oil consumption stops. Then see how it runs for a bit. Then clean the intake valves if it's still bad.
A little too late for mine. Started getting an oil weep on top of piston in cylinder 4 and now piston is dropping. Looks like a rebuild in the future now unfortunately 😕
Also wouldn't buy cheap chinese coils or spark plugs. Saw something where people selling fake ngk sparkplugs ebay/amazon. And the chinese coils fail quick.
It's dropping cylinder 4 intermittently now because of where the pcv lives directly over that cylinder and piston. The cross hatchings on that cylinder have worn off and an oil leak is occurring on top of number 4 piston. The only fix for that is a rebuild my friend.
@lewisljr does your pcv fits well ? I have ordered one in auto doc before watching your video and after installing it some tiny gaps remain.will see if it will do the job....otherwise i will order the same model as yours. My 118i has 110000km and pcv valve was completely hard and tear. Big oil consuption here .
Yeah little gaps between rock cover and new diaphragm plastic cover...first little test this morning....the cover didn't move but i could see a few misfires while driving in bimmerlink live data app that i use for monitoring. I know there is no official part from BMW for this motor...so maybe the part fits better from other manufacturer
@@77luisf With mine when I first fitted it the reving felt a bit laboured. But after I took it for a drive it seated into place. I sorta drove it normally then gave it a faster pull and repeated that. Also check the vacuum line from the engine cover is still attached. That messes up how it runs. But after that I've had no issues with mine. Still not loosing any oil, and no misfires. I would try run it for a bit before replacing it see if its holding oil. Then you will no if it's working properly.
@@77luisf With the plastic casing I was worried initially with mine because it looked like it had a gap, and I looked back at the footage and it was the same. Think the design is just a bit like that anyway, mine did make a small pop noise when I pushed it down.
@77luisf Remember as well you will have oil in the system where the pcv was torn before. So maybe some of the misfires could be the oil in the line, as it runs into the intake.
Could try spark plugs or a coil could be bad. Might be best to have it scanned to see what coil it is though. Rather than changing all 4. I had rough idle that was just one coil was bad. Also maybe put a tank of good fuel through it with injector cleaner in it. I use 99 unleaded in mine that has injector cleaner in. Was using E10 before and it was clogging up the injectors. But you can just put one tank in when it get bad if you want to use the cheaper fuel.
@@lewisljr Hey, thanks for the suggestion. However this rourgh idle started after i replaced the valve. Do you think it could be because I installed it wrong or the new one is has some fault in it?
@@inderpalsingh713 oh maybe give it a good drive, give it some acceleration because it kind of beds in. Mine felt a bit weird when I first ran it. Then motor pulls the pcv valve into place.
That solved my problem in brazil today, thanks for the video.
Cheers pal,
Just because of people like you, I feel humanity has high hopes. This is great selfless service
I'm going to do it on my F20. The mechanic here is asking me 250euros for the valve and 2 hours for replacement
Thank you sooo much this video saved me lots and lots of money ❤️👊🏽
hey, do you know how much oil the car was burning before?
Yeah mine was not burning any oil, then when the PCV started to go bad I lost about 250ml then it stayed there for a bit then dropped straight down to the min level which is about another 750ml then I changed the PCV valve. I showed what it was like in the video towards the end. But I changed it quick after it went wrong. I didn't keep topping it up.
I have a 116i 136ps F20 and the problem is when the motor is warm, and i let him in idle 3-5 min then i press the acceleration it’s coming out white smoke (not too much) do you think is coming from this valve ? Recently i changed it the oil with Motul, maybe he dont like it ?
Mine wasn't smoking, some people do have smoke from the pcv failing. But usually the smoke is blue. And happens when decelerating.
You will be losing oil if its pcv, but white could be headgasket if its got water coming out the exhaust even after its warmed up. Hopefully it's not that.
Also if it was water/white smoke from headgasket you would lose coolant.
Also white smoke could be the turbo, is it high mileage?
@@lewisljr110.000km, actually im losing oil but not too too much, i seen on gauge
When going full gas car starts to misfire on cilinder 2. When i keep the pedal in middle it goes normal and if i slowly keep it till the pedal is all the way down it goes normal. But when i immediately go full gas it starts to stutter/jerk. I usually let go of the gas when i have it but if i keep driving full gas the car shuts down cilinder 2 and gives me a misfire code. Already swapped coil 2&3 and it stays on 2. Maybe spark plugs ? Expert told me its carbon buildup in intake.
@@eroberer I would still try spark plugs just incase. Be careful of amazon/ebay etc though. Saw some video about ngk fakes. Probably better to go to a proper parts shop. Sounds a bit weird jerking though, do you use the fuel with injector cleaner in ever? Because mine was running badly on the cheaper petrol. But I always use 99 that has injector cleaner in it now. Even just putting one tank in might help.
@ hi thanks for your reply i really appreciate it. I always use injector cleaner once in a while also recently cause i thought it may help. About the fuel a few months ago before the problem i switched from dutch e10 95 to german e10 the cheapest, and one week ago i tried german e5 98 and i kind of notice more power but the stuttering is still there. When i got the stuttering at first i immediately thought spark plugs and i did put 4 new ngk platinum but when i started the car it was shaking on stationary, so i put back the old bosch ones and it didnt shake on stationary anymore. I do have to say the old ones were black (maybe cause of the oil consumption?) and spark plugs usually are browish not black. And there is a electode gap difference, with the bosch (0,8 i think) ones and ngk (0,6) so i thought maybe thats why. Expert told me it can be the carbon buildup on intake and to clean it and to just put some additives for the oil. Let me know what u think.
@@eroberer Yeah if you have oil consumption it is probably the PCV valve is torn like mine was in the video. The pipe from the PCV goes back into the intake as well. It's direct injection engine so most people get the intake valves walnut blasted now. But it's pointless if the PCV is still broken because it will get oil build up again quickly. I would probably do the PCV valve first see if the oil consumption stops. Then see how it runs for a bit. Then clean the intake valves if it's still bad.
@@erobererYou can get sprays to clean the intake valves as well. Probably cheapest option. But the walnut blast gets rid of more.
@@lewisljr alright thanks alot ill keep u updated
A little too late for mine. Started getting an oil weep on top of piston in cylinder 4 and now piston is dropping. Looks like a rebuild in the future now unfortunately 😕
What it sometimes runs on three cylinders? You tried changing the coil on the bad cylinder? And spark plugs?
Also wouldn't buy cheap chinese coils or spark plugs. Saw something where people selling fake ngk sparkplugs ebay/amazon. And the chinese coils fail quick.
It's dropping cylinder 4 intermittently now because of where the pcv lives directly over that cylinder and piston. The cross hatchings on that cylinder have worn off and an oil leak is occurring on top of number 4 piston. The only fix for that is a rebuild my friend.
I had a camera put down into each of my cylinders in order to diagnose this problem.
@lewisljr does your pcv fits well ? I have ordered one in auto doc before watching your video and after installing it some tiny gaps remain.will see if it will do the job....otherwise i will order the same model as yours. My 118i has 110000km and pcv valve was completely hard and tear. Big oil consuption here .
@@77luisf Where are the gaps? Do you mean where the diaphragm sits in the upper plastic casing?
Yeah little gaps between rock cover and new diaphragm plastic cover...first little test this morning....the cover didn't move but i could see a few misfires while driving in bimmerlink live data app that i use for monitoring. I know there is no official part from BMW for this motor...so maybe the part fits better from other manufacturer
@@77luisf With mine when I first fitted it the reving felt a bit laboured. But after I took it for a drive it seated into place. I sorta drove it normally then gave it a faster pull and repeated that. Also check the vacuum line from the engine cover is still attached. That messes up how it runs. But after that I've had no issues with mine. Still not loosing any oil, and no misfires. I would try run it for a bit before replacing it see if its holding oil. Then you will no if it's working properly.
@@77luisf With the plastic casing I was worried initially with mine because it looked like it had a gap, and I looked back at the footage and it was the same. Think the design is just a bit like that anyway, mine did make a small pop noise when I pushed it down.
@77luisf Remember as well you will have oil in the system where the pcv was torn before. So maybe some of the misfires could be the oil in the line, as it runs into the intake.
I tried it and the noise went away. However now my car is having rough idle. Any idea what could be the reason?
Could try spark plugs or a coil could be bad. Might be best to have it scanned to see what coil it is though. Rather than changing all 4. I had rough idle that was just one coil was bad. Also maybe put a tank of good fuel through it with injector cleaner in it. I use 99 unleaded in mine that has injector cleaner in. Was using E10 before and it was clogging up the injectors. But you can just put one tank in when it get bad if you want to use the cheaper fuel.
@@lewisljr Hey, thanks for the suggestion. However this rourgh idle started after i replaced the valve. Do you think it could be because I installed it wrong or the new one is has some fault in it?
@@inderpalsingh713 oh maybe give it a good drive, give it some acceleration because it kind of beds in. Mine felt a bit weird when I first ran it. Then motor pulls the pcv valve into place.
@@inderpalsingh713 Also mate check the vacuum line that connects to the engine cover is still attached.
@@inderpalsingh713 Did you try carrying on driving it for a bit pal?
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