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Very helpful Doug. God bless you and David for having the courage to speak up. You guy’s are doing a great service. Your honesty is most appreciated. Thank you both!
I am recovering a Brunswick model JD-7. I haven't been able to find a manufacture date and have a serial number. I have been watching several video's on covering and haven't found one exactly like my setup. My table has tack strips on the sides for the table cloth and wonder what the proper way of using them to stretch the cloth. Do you have any advice for me? I have the original book with the table but the part number do not cross reference. Thanks in advance!
Love the Q/A session. I have a specific question regarding leveling. Please excuse the long winded explanation. I have a custom built table that will need to be moved to a newly constructed home. It will be placed on the ground floor of the home which will be a concrete slab foundation and finished with LVP flooring. I'm not overly concerned with the slate leveling (my table mover will address the initial frame and slate leveling). What my concern is settling of the home (probably not that significant in the short term) and the need to do leg based leveling (4 claw feet legs) over the life of the table location (not to mention myself). Once the table is in place, I don't really want to lift the table repeatedly to place leveling tiles (big box floor samples and you explained - very creative and cost effective). My research uncovered a product called FlatJax which looked to be pretty innovative and accurate without the necessity of lifting the table. I would expect lifting much would compromise the slate level eventually. Interested in your thoughts, comments, and/or suggestions on the product and feasibility.
If your house is on a concrete slab, you don't have anything to worry about. If it's either a raised house or the table will be put on a second floor, there isn't much you can do about settling over time. After you install the table, you should check it for level every week for a month, every month for a year and then, every year after that. If it starts to show signs of being unlevel, you can lift one side at a time and re-level it. As long as you don't move the table from where it is, and you only lift straight up and then back down, you're not likely to mess anything up. Hope this helps.
when assembling the rails and leather pockets, some installers screw all the pockets to rails while some screw only one screw in each side pocket. I understand why some only screw one, because it makes it easier to attach or take apart, my question is, why is the proper or recommended method? If all screws in side pockets are connected, it makes flipping all the rails at once a little challenging if you don’t have 3 or 4 people helping.
Hey Doug. In looking for a pool table either new or used, what is your preference for the thickness of the slate, and what material do you prefer for slate liners?
Good questions. I would recommend that slate be at least 7/8" thick or more (up to 1-1/4"). Anything thinner flexes too much. Anything thicker is just overkill and too heavy to move safely. As for liner material, I prefer solid wood (either pine or poplar). OSB is ok. But, it can swell if it happens to get wet. It also has a tendency to crumble the more times the table is covered.
As una deconstrucción de los zapatos mocasines Florsheim Como Imperial , ¿estarían bien pagados esos zapatos? As a deconstruction of the Florsheim loafers As Imperial, would those shoes be well paid?
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If you feel this video was helpful and wish to make a contribution to the channel, you are welcome to send a PayPal donation to:
www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=R9XGEWZQJX8LA
Great info
👽 vid. probed thx.
Very helpful Doug. God bless you and David for having the courage to speak up. You guy’s are doing a great service. Your honesty is most appreciated.
Thank you both!
can you make a vlog about pool billard sizes and the ball sizes for avery pool billard size
thanks again for the great information
I am recovering a Brunswick model JD-7. I haven't been able to find a manufacture date and have a serial number. I have been watching several video's on covering and haven't found one exactly like my setup. My table has tack strips on the sides for the table cloth and wonder what the proper way of using them to stretch the cloth. Do you have any advice for me? I have the original book with the table but the part number do not cross reference. Thanks in advance!
How can I get ahold of you about getting my 1900s t rails on a Brunswick repaired
How about 9ft Brunswick model "Orleans" for $1300 with new Simonis 860 cloth and Aramith Set Of Balls is a good deal to buy?
Love the Q/A session. I have a specific question regarding leveling. Please excuse the long winded explanation. I have a custom built table that will need to be moved to a newly constructed home. It will be placed on the ground floor of the home which will be a concrete slab foundation and finished with LVP flooring. I'm not overly concerned with the slate leveling (my table mover will address the initial frame and slate leveling). What my concern is settling of the home (probably not that significant in the short term) and the need to do leg based leveling (4 claw feet legs) over the life of the table location (not to mention myself). Once the table is in place, I don't really want to lift the table repeatedly to place leveling tiles (big box floor samples and you explained - very creative and cost effective). My research uncovered a product called FlatJax which looked to be pretty innovative and accurate without the necessity of lifting the table. I would expect lifting much would compromise the slate level eventually. Interested in your thoughts, comments, and/or suggestions on the product and feasibility.
If your house is on a concrete slab, you don't have anything to worry about. If it's either a raised house or the table will be put on a second floor, there isn't much you can do about settling over time.
After you install the table, you should check it for level every week for a month, every month for a year and then, every year after that. If it starts to show signs of being unlevel, you can lift one side at a time and re-level it. As long as you don't move the table from where it is, and you only lift straight up and then back down, you're not likely to mess anything up.
Hope this helps.
when assembling the rails and leather pockets, some installers screw all the pockets to rails while some screw only one screw in each side pocket. I understand why some only screw one, because it makes it easier to attach or take apart, my question is, why is the proper or recommended method? If all screws in side pockets are connected, it makes flipping all the rails at once a little challenging if you don’t have 3 or 4 people helping.
I'll be doing a short video soon about this very topic. Stay tuned!!!!
Hey Doug.
In looking for a pool table either new or used, what is your preference for the thickness of the slate, and what material do you prefer for slate liners?
Good questions.
I would recommend that slate be at least 7/8" thick or more (up to 1-1/4"). Anything thinner flexes too much. Anything thicker is just overkill and too heavy to move safely. As for liner material, I prefer solid wood (either pine or poplar). OSB is ok. But, it can swell if it happens to get wet. It also has a tendency to crumble the more times the table is covered.
As una deconstrucción de los zapatos mocasines Florsheim Como Imperial , ¿estarían bien pagados esos zapatos?
As a deconstruction of the Florsheim loafers As Imperial, would those shoes be well paid?