Wood Stove Chimney Install- Metal Roof
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Wood Stove + Chimney Sources
mrpostframe.co...
Thanks for watching! Subscribe, Like, + Share if you enjoyed this video!
Amazon Store | Project Tools Listed by Category
www.amazon.com/shop/marshallremodel
Finishes, Fixtures, Decor, + More
www.liketoknow...
Daily Updates
linktr.ee/mars...
Mad County Build Series 100+ Videos
• Mad County Build
Thanks for stopping by our channel! We are self building our family of 5 a post frame barndominium in Iowa along with the life we’ve always dreamed of.
The goal of our channel is to inspire others to build their dream by providing education on construction and an in depth look at how we’ve gotten to this place.
Email:
Info@mrpostframe.com
Mailing:
PO Box 11
Winterset, IA 50273
#postframe #selfbuild #construction
sound stripe - W4ZURNK7YQRGC9HE
Best install I have seen. Been looking all over the internet, even manufacturer install videos for instruction. You nailed it. TY.
If I needed some one too install a chimney I would pick you . You always go out of your way too do a perfect job !
Wow, thank you. Really appreciate that.
Hello Paul and Emily, you guys have done wonderful, thanks for the explanation. To many QC and safety critics here. Never mind them . Good video. Stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
Thanks for watching!
Only video out there that is properly done. great job.
Thank you!
Watched five other videos of the same thing. I have the most faith in yours. Good job.
Thanks!
To late now but in the future install the rubber boot on a diamond position instead of like you have it now so water want collect on top and will run off easy.
2 hours ago, this comment would have been great. Lol
Too late now, but it's too late...
Now Thats a Teriffic Idear Cheers Ive got too do one soon
Yes sir GOSPEL
I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You are impressive. Nice job every time. Thanks for the great content.
Thank you very much!
Great job! Thanks for sharing your journey with us
Thanks for watching!
Excellent. Thanks for the demo.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks For Sharing a Great Job!
Excellent instructional video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
THAT was an excellent video. EXCELLENT!
Thank you very much!
Great detail! Very helpful info.
Thank you!
good stuff
Thanks for watching!
Excellent work and info thank ya
Thanks for watching!
your like Napoleon Dynamite….bow hunting skills, computer hacking skills, nunchuck skills…chimney skills!
omg lol best compliment ever
Could you tell us what you would do had the hole in the ceiling hit a roof joist? Move it over, bend it, how do you handle that situation?
Hey you actually have shoes on this time lol
😆 every so often
What brand is that Class A chimney pipe?
Duravent here’s the website we ordered from www.discountchimneysupply.com/chimney_pipe.html
Lol why did u use white caulking on a black gasket and a dark coloured roof
Oh no the hole I cut lands right on a joist.
Your ceiling there is flat. How does the transition piece work if you have a steeper angled ceiling?
Where did you get that heat shield that goes through the roof? The round metal one that is not DuraVent?
You know, the greatest blessing a man or woman can have is being healthy to do things.
So true.
Love your show, many many great ideas.
Suggestion: Wouldn't it have been better if you would have "diamond-ed" your rubber seal? (Point the corner of the rubber seal towards the top of the roof line). That way you would have less standing water on top of the seal, the diamond installation would allow a minimum of standing water. Just a thought. I saw Kyle do this this on R&R
Buildings.
can be hard with corrugations and the gasket material behavior
Wow this is so interesting to me! As I do this as a profession in New Zealand our rules and regulations are way different, 1. You can’t have a circular hole in the ceiling it has to be square to allow for breathing airflow, 2 the roof has to be back flashed ( a piece of metal that goes over the penetration ) and the aqua seal that goes around the chimney/liner on the outside of the roof MUST be put down diamond shape to allow water to run away not build up at the top, we also have a trip skin system you’ll have your outter liner inner baffle and inner flue, also inner flue MUST be sealed with fire cement to stop leaking carbon oxide.
Thanks for sharing always interesting hearing how things are done differently
You can’t beat all the rules and regulations and of course paying the relevant council fees here in New Zealand..
Marlborough District Council has a competition with the rest of the country about how many new fees that they can put on the homeowners, sometimes even requiring us to pay for what has or(probably not) occurred on the land, going back to 1920(is their latest con)
With all the attention to clearance to combustibles, wouldn't you want to avoid spray foam and poly attached directly to your ceiling transition collar?
A few constructive comments :
it is not necessary or required to use any foam sprays or sealants around the ceiling support as a matter of fact it would probably be advisible never to use these products because you are potentially creating a fire hazard if there was ever a chimney fire. Heat coming off of this pipe is intense and can catch that area on fire.
Secondly you want to cut plastics and other materials away from this ceiling support. Again, class a pipe although a good material if there was a serious chimney fire which burns it over 2200°, can turn this pipe into a soft marshmallow like material and all of this foam and other materials become involved in a fire.
Thirdly although I could not tell I’m assuming that that pipe is fairly close to your mantle. Although there are clearance requirements in the instructions, it’s always better to go with more than just the minimum.
Other than that it seems like you did a really nice job.
Thank you for a very well made video.
Best video I have seen so far on how to install on a metal roof, my wood stove is rated for 2500 square feet, my pipe run is 16' or so. I am using triple wall from the ceiling and through the roof to cap, single wall from the stove to the ceiling to capture more heat for the first 8'.
Your attention to detail is amazing Paul, keep up the excellent work! Hope to see you guys next month at the covered bridges festival?
Thank you! We will be around!
Please, where did u get the heat shield from???
Same question I have! I have been searching for the heatshield and have only found it in a kit that Selkirk sells called Selkirk 200275 Galvanized Steel Rubber Boot Chimney Flashing Kit. I have found it at a few retailers and eBay. There is also a Selkirk SuperPro All-Fuel Chimney Pipe Rafter Shield - but it doesn't look to have the stand-off pieces of the one Paul used. Good luck.
Your stove is huge and the wall with the pipe going up looks amazing. Well done it looks perfect
Thanks 👍
That engineered roof is looks so flimsy.. them trusses look like there 8ft apart... no plywood/ice/water/synthetic underlayment. Not the best way to protect your investment
This makes no sense to me,,here in the UK, only cattle sheds and industrial buildings have metal roofs..Not people living in homes..Tile or slate.
Such a pity,because the wood stove is amazing..💯
Metal roofs are gaining a lot of popularity here over shingles
I know for most contractors it's common sense but you should of told DYIer's that they should check for wires or pipes before cutting lol
You make a good point haha
I appreciate that you take the time to explain the installation. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Great job, great video! Thanks for doing this. One question, do you have the two foot chimney clearance above your ridge line that I've seen recommended?
I don’t see any bath fan vents on your house. How did you vent your fans ? I was hoping your chimney video would demonstrate something similar .
🌺🌹🌴🌷🌷🌴☘🌷🌷🥀🌹🌺🌴🌼🌸🌻🌸🌻🌸🌻💮🌻🌸🌿⚘🌷🌴🌹🥀🌺🌺🌹🌴🌷🌷🌴☘🌷🌷🥀🌹🌺🌴
For the hole through the roof, it would have been better to learn about drawing an ellipse for the hole size you needed instead of the freehand method you did. Other than that nice work.
I have plywood then purlins then metal on my roof. Is this the same process for install thru the roof? Thanks
Fire caulk would have been the way to go instead of spray foam
The flange on the roof..are you sure you used enough screws? For goodness sakes!
Why are you using double wall in the heated space rather than single wall?
Great video. If you have a metal roof and a modern EPA reburn wood stove, then do you need a spark arrestor?
Is the chimney pipe in the attic and out roof insulated pipe or just same from stove up all way
Why not single wall so it gives off more heat in that big room?
Is it installed by the code ? It looks like the chimney is shorter than 2 feet above the ridge
Hope you have ceiling fan and a good blower b/c if you're in an area where the temp drops below freezing, you're going to have a hard time heating that massive place.
Yes, there will be a ceiling fan and we have a blower. We also have a furnace for each floor of the house and radiant heat in the main floor concrete.
Where is it that a pole barn style roof meets building code for a home? Those trusses must be 4 or 6 feet apart. Can you even walk on that roof without denting it?
These types of homes are built all over the nation with trusses that are 8’ oc. The metal is strong and will not dent when walking on it.
The stove pipe is where you get the majority of the heat. Single wall inside. Double wall through the wall or eoof and outside.
Had to go with double wall because of the height of inside ceiling. I still get a ton of heat out of it. Works great.
why would you put double wall pipe directly from the stove? that should start at the ceiling so nothing catches fire past that. if you start it at the stove than you're just loosing that that extra heat.
Depending on how efficient the stove is at radiating the heat...
and that standing column of exhaust air had better have some heat in it to "lift" it out of the chimney top to the outside....
because the backflow if it cools too much is going to settle back down into the firebox and back out into the house....
Wow, you always make it look easy. Cutting an upside down circle would suck
Thanks for watching!
This install is a leak waiting to happen. The standing seam is running under the screw down flange. WTF! You need the panel cut off and a cricket installed with a diamond or round flange, NOT square.
Actually your stone wall is not combustible but the wood wall is, as there is no ventilated air gap it does not qualify as non combustible. As wood heats up and cools after many cyles the ignition temp drops considerably. In your case its fine but as you are teaching people its important.
Never a fan of those rubber boots. I like to elbow the class A in the attic towards the peak (make sure elbows are supported by the trusses). Install a lead flashing and tuck under the ridge cap. I know the attic is not conditioned space, but it may help w/ any potential negative pressure issues. Also it’s easier to meet minimum chimney height requirements as the chimney needs to be 2’ above the peak. 10-3-2 rule. I know cleaning the flue is not as easy w/ an offset.
My insurance company flew a drone over my home in rural Sioux City and saw my chimney for my fireplace. They thought it was a wood burner and said they won’t continue to insure me if it was. I had to take a pic of the fireplace and email it to them. Why would a fireplace be covered, but not a wood burning stove?
This installation is backwards. You should install your ceiling box and double wall SS pipe during construction with an insulation shield. This all with an idea of where the stove will be located. Then, after everything else is done, you install your black pipe and stove. You do this because the chimney placement depends completely on the truss location, so that determines location. Also, silicone itself is more than enough to keep the storm collar in place, you don't need additional fasteners. In any case, you don't place the stove first and then work off that, the structure determines location.
Stick another 36 inches of flue on top of that chimney to get the end of the pipe above the swirl and backdraft inducing zone caused by the tumbling of the air caused by wind hitting the ridgeline.
Brace with 3x wire/metal band stays to counter high wind situations...
I hate to do this… but that is the wrong flashing. Need to use red silicone flashing for wood stoves. Also.. can’t mix Selkirk and Duratech chimney components and you need a storm collar on top of that attic shield. Should make sure you know what you’re doing if your doing a how to video.
You make this look so easy... I hope my installation goes this well.
Thanks for watching!
So jealous, so little holes poked through your roof! My way smaller roof must have at least 10 pipes sticking out
Spent a lot of time figuring out how to minimize it!
Your introduction is to long get to the point
Where did you get the heat shield, I can’t find it any where, what is the part name/number
That wood-stove company should send their best technician out to inspect your install, and offer any free
upgrades, for giving them free advertisement. I would have rotated the rubber-gizmo, 45 degrees, and placed
some kind of protective cover directly on it. And painted a pattern around the roof with heat-resistant paint.
Will that add heat to the attic and if so, is that a good thing ??
Not sure if you have covered this topic and issue as of yet. Air recovery or make up air as I hear it called. With a wood stove, it needs air to combust obviously. In a new tight and air sealed house, are you installing an ERV or HRV into your HVAC? Same issue comes into play with your kitchen exhaust fan.
That as well is an incorrect install!
Very nice .I would like to know if the rubber holds up to any creosote that drips on to it . I have a chimney on a tin roof and the creosote dripping on the tin eats holes in it .
I installed a 2nd rubber boot with a clamp, over that metal rain shield, as a secondary form of protection.
Thats some weak looking framing, You must not get much snow .
Really nice job and good clear instructions. I’ve seen a lot of people go through metal roofs with all sorts of different methods but now that the rubber type material they have for the boot life is easier. Only thing I would have done different would install a stainless steel clamp over that boot.
Absolutely the most concise and fully thorough description on how to do this I should've come here first wow thank you so much
I noticed that you dont have a vapor barrier under your steel roof, I would be worried about condensation dripping on your insulation constantly
How about showing it burning a log?
Keep watching you'll see one! Haven't fired it up since it's been 90+ degrees around here
You had one shot to cut through that beautiful ceiling and the roof . and you did great.. :)
Thanks! Getting over the fact that there's a hole in my roof haha
Best on TH-cam, I have a question the sleeve and spacer at the roof line where to purchase?
Well done, I just wish they would stamp a storm collar like they do for b-vent
Nice work!!! This reassured my job was done correctly!
Thanks
I can feel the warmth of the fire already. Well done.
Thanks for watching!
Really helpful video, thanks! Where do you source the adjustable heat shield? I've got an odd size pipe (9 in), so an adjustable shield would be awesome.
Well Done ! I hope that mine turns out that well. Thank You for helping me not to mess mine up.
Good luck!
Well done buddy. Nice to see a pro in action and safety, being the first priority once again, well done😊
The concern is not the ice tearing boots, it's the pipe getting sheared off or bent over, which I've seen
Nice video. Good advice to check the boot every year. I had turkey buzzards rip up my boot and caused a leak.
where did you get the heat shield that went over the doube wall pipe in between wood
How are the owners supposed to clean the chimney? you didnt leave any revision openings?
Get on the roof and brush out the pipe as per usual.
You don't need to do that often if you burn the correct wood at the right moisture level
and fire the stove at the right flame properties.......
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Appreciate you watching/commenting!
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for going into such detail. Tried to look up your website but it is down ? Same problem with the other links. Don't know if you are aware of this.
Thanks for letting me know. We changed our business name to MR Post Frame since I’m now building for other people.
New site is mrpostframe.com
Sorry for inconvenience, we’ll get those corrected.
Never seen a better install ‼️‼️. Vinny 🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
interesting! Is that a special spray foam?
Don't forget your roof vents I find out the hard way. just saying
I have a question for you just curious why you didn’t use Single wall pipe from fireplace to the ceiling to radiate more heat in your house versus going with double wall pipe just wondering your thoughts on that thank you everything looks great God bless
The new epa stove are so efficient but they like a really good draw. Double wall excels at that.
Wrong location you should put the TV above the mantle and the fireplace in a corner
A lot of good detail given here. I have a high vaulted ceiling. I used single wall pipe up to the ceiling box. This gives me a lot of good heat from the chimney and is much cheaper than double and triple wall insulated pipe. I added a magnetically held shield behind the chimney on the first four feet, that keeps my wall behind the stove cool. A near by ceiling fan set to pull up, forces trapped heat from the ceiling. This makes a quite installation compared to most stove fans.
Yeah, spin that roof boot 45 degrees so the water sheds off the corner of the boot, like a boat in water.
Diamond shape (rather than square) guides water around the edges......
Do you recall the part number on that heat shield?
Had that exact stove at my cabin. Pretty amazing kit, done right it was a slow burner for hours and hours.
Awesome thanks for the personal vouch!
What stove is that?
We are installing a wood stove chimney through our standing seam metal roof. Duravent does not seem to prescribe a silicone boot/jack for installations. I see that your silicon boot does not actually touch the double wall chimney pipe - it contacts the heat shield. So that leaves the two inch airspace between combustibles? And thank you for an informative video!
There is a high temp silicone boot for chimney installs
Where did you get a rubber boot that size?
Excellent video. Thanks.