Glad I could be of help! Thank you so much for the donation, I really appreciate it! Helped put some food on my table tonight (currently eating dinner). Hope everything goes well with your project!!
Thats a very clean miata. Passenger side is simple. Driver's side is a pain. I removed it from the top. I removed the strut tower brace and pulled the airbox out of the way. I left the rubber mount attached to the engine bracket and pulled them out together. However I pulled the smaller bracket that sits next to the subframe out by itself. Got whole job done in about 2hrs.
Feel free to remove that big aluminum bracket that connects the intake manifold to the block. It’s overkill considering how stout the cast intake manifold is, and it’ll make it easier to do oil changes! FM has been doing this for 30 years with no adverse effects.
I did this yesterday (put stock NB mounts on my NA), and it was a pain but very worth it. I ran into a weird issue where I had a short bolt on the RH side- 2nd from top (there are 3 sizes). I don't know if it was a factory defect, but it stripped when torquing. I had to get a longer, correct 25mm M10X 1.25 (it was only 20mm). I chased the block threads and all was good. Driver side is easy, once you remove the exhaust, and my Raceland header was a pain to remove. At 130K they were collapsed. I took it for a short drive and it was a huge difference. The exhaust fit much better, clutch take up was smoother, and the shiter was actually higher.
Thanks for your review of the competition mounts. My mounts are shot, and I was considering these from IL Motorsport (Europe). I hope that these will also help with shifting, which is becoming more difficult. I use my NB exactly the same as you, not my daily and occasionally on track. Now that I watched your video, I'll get these!
Getting the shifts and rev matching smoother on my NB definitely seems like it would be a huge plus. Just worrying about the added vibration. If it's a weekend car, definitely seems like a nice mod. For a daily, maybe worth going with OEM
did you remove any part of the exhaust at all to gain access to the driver-side mount? I don't have A/C, and it seems like a real b*tch to get to. Passenger-side was fairly easy. I'm doing AWR 70-shoreA mounts. Car = 2001 NB2 1.8 6-speed Aisin.
Driver's side was no problem at all getting out/in with AC and PS in my 99 without removing anything extra. Do you have NB2? I know getting to the o2 sensor is a pia to get to on NB2. Maybe also the motor mount. But not in NB1.
NB2 is more difficult than NB1 as it has 4 mounting points on the bracket. And the 4th mounting point is like an elongated ear that sticks out. So it catches on everything when trying to remove it
Lol have fun with a cracked oil pan if you keep jacking it up like that. It's not meant for that stress and will eventually crack. It's safer to use the subframe as a jack point bc it can handle the stress and will never get damaged
he's not jacking the car up by the oil pan. he's jacking up the motor itself. the pan is more than strong enough to be used to jack the motor up but obviously not the car. please don't comment something stupid like that without knowing what your talking about, your giving false info to people that might not know better.... like yourself lol
I like the subtle counter strike "bomb is planted" at 3:27
Your video and humblemechanics's video saved me a lot of time and headache!! Just funished it with minimized frustration! Thank you!!
Glad I could be of help! Thank you so much for the donation, I really appreciate it! Helped put some food on my table tonight (currently eating dinner).
Hope everything goes well with your project!!
Thats a very clean miata. Passenger side is simple. Driver's side is a pain. I removed it from the top. I removed the strut tower brace and pulled the airbox out of the way. I left the rubber mount attached to the engine bracket and pulled them out together. However I pulled the smaller bracket that sits next to the subframe out by itself. Got whole job done in about 2hrs.
Feel free to remove that big aluminum bracket that connects the intake manifold to the block. It’s overkill considering how stout the cast intake manifold is, and it’ll make it easier to do oil changes! FM has been doing this for 30 years with no adverse effects.
Thanks for documenting your build, I just got an NB2 and this series has given me some great inspiration.
Ever since I saw the donut media video about these, I can’t stop thinking about them. I want a new set so bad
I did this yesterday (put stock NB mounts on my NA), and it was a pain but very worth it. I ran into a weird issue where I had a short bolt on the RH side- 2nd from top (there are 3 sizes). I don't know if it was a factory defect, but it stripped when torquing. I had to get a longer, correct 25mm M10X 1.25 (it was only 20mm). I chased the block threads and all was good. Driver side is easy, once you remove the exhaust, and my Raceland header was a pain to remove. At 130K they were collapsed. I took it for a short drive and it was a huge difference. The exhaust fit much better, clutch take up was smoother, and the shiter was actually higher.
Keep it up! We should do a se Michigan miata meet up. I would love to see the rotrex and the nb!
haha, I think there might only be three people but maybe that's something we could do towards the end of the summer!
Thanks for your review of the competition mounts. My mounts are shot, and I was considering these from IL Motorsport (Europe). I hope that these will also help with shifting, which is becoming more difficult. I use my NB exactly the same as you, not my daily and occasionally on track. Now that I watched your video, I'll get these!
didnt know you did this - the motor mount in the ST helped alot. good insight though; alot of work for minimal gains
Getting the shifts and rev matching smoother on my NB definitely seems like it would be a huge plus. Just worrying about the added vibration. If it's a weekend car, definitely seems like a nice mod. For a daily, maybe worth going with OEM
did you remove any part of the exhaust at all to gain access to the driver-side mount? I don't have A/C, and it seems like a real b*tch to get to. Passenger-side was fairly easy. I'm doing AWR 70-shoreA mounts.
Car = 2001 NB2 1.8 6-speed Aisin.
Is the left and right support mount the same size or same parts?
Driver's side was no problem at all getting out/in with AC and PS in my 99 without removing anything extra. Do you have NB2? I know getting to the o2 sensor is a pia to get to on NB2. Maybe also the motor mount. But not in NB1.
NB2 is more difficult than NB1 as it has 4 mounting points on the bracket. And the 4th mounting point is like an elongated ear that sticks out. So it catches on everything when trying to remove it
Patrick what part of Michigan do you live ?
Nice vid, Also putting in the work on my NB miata, really enjoying it. I have been thinking what would be better, motor mounts or a torque damper ?
What's your wheel setup
lol @ bomb has been planted
Lol have fun with a cracked oil pan if you keep jacking it up like that. It's not meant for that stress and will eventually crack. It's safer to use the subframe as a jack point bc it can handle the stress and will never get damaged
he's not jacking the car up by the oil pan. he's jacking up the motor itself. the pan is more than strong enough to be used to jack the motor up but obviously not the car. please don't comment something stupid like that without knowing what your talking about, your giving false info to people that might not know better.... like yourself lol
Good luck raising the engine by jacking the subframe
👎 Thumbs Down - I did this twice. It's a lot easier to remove the front wheels.
Yeah, I don't like your comment either.
Why