Does it work? Kubota L4060 vs. RhinoAg TS10 Flexwing Mower.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Peter @ZILAwelds tries his Kubota Grand L4060 on our Rhino TS10. His fab skills are put to use to modify the drawbar for safe operation.
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Thank you Tim, I had a great time coming out and making this video with you !
Thank you for bringing your tractor down for the test it was much appreciated
Got a follow from me, awesome setup Zila!
ahhh i was wondering right from the beginning if you are from germany or not...there is the answer^^ i live in lower saxony....but i would love to live in the USA...what is better US or germany?
@@jddriver9565 Germany
This is great, what I see, is 1 man´s single brainpower, coming up with something much better that a team of engineer´s could not and improved it a lot with some creativity to solve a problem like this, I think that this should be sold as a accessory to improve this tractor
And above all, in my amateur eyes, it is also a lot safer than the original one since it is clearly logically stronger in the welds and construction!
I don’t disagree with your comment on a team of engineers but I think what’s really happening is the manufacturer looking to minimize cost wherever they can. I notice differences on the Kubota tractors where in my opinion it’s not as strong as some other brands. But you also have a lower price point for the tractors. Using a metal that’s not as thick or designing something that could be better probably saves them hundreds of thousands of dollars over the span of all the machines made. Especially being many may never actually use a draw bar to the limit like this.
Pete's bracket is a piece of art. NIce job! Beautiful welds.
Peter is a master welder fabricator, i love watching his videos.The two of you made a great video !
I own a 2008 Kubota L3540 (previous generation of the Grand Lxx60) with a little more than 3000 hours on it. The hydro transmission (HST Plus) on both generations is mostly the same.
The HST Plus transmission on those is a blessing. Combined with the auto throttle, it drives as easy as a car.
I love this tractor and, for what I do with it, I wouldn't trade it for anything else.
Peter is a talented dude. First time hearing of him. That piece is well though out, 9 times better welds than the factory kabota welds (kabota should be embarrassed) and you can tell Peter has a very good knowledge of what he’s doing. I’m very impressed, and will be checking out his channel. 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Thanks Tim!
Does misspelling the brand name make you feel better?
Would love to see your data to support your assertion. Not that I find it crazy kubota designed it this way but to claim what you did you should have some data.
@@MrManic52001 can’t keep up with auto correct. But yes those factory welds are trash. 🤣
@@robsmith7681 I mean you misspelled it twice... also you still have not stated anything other than a bias assertion. I am fully capable of believing a brand has a weak point but I have no heard that kubotas are weak welded.
@@MrManic52001 IF you watched the video, and looked at the factory bracket, you would clearly see junk welds there. If a weld looks bad underneath paint, you can guarantee that it looks worse on bare metal. They all look like no penetration to me. But what do I know….. better question, what do you know?
Peter Zila is a solid dude and a great fabricator. Those holes I bet you are done with an HTP microcut on that table look fantastic. 3/16 I think I heard you say was what it was cut out of maybe 3/8. Either way that dual shield flux is amazing and I run it a lot myself. Tim always liked your videos as well. Got rid of a 5065E and went to a 317G skidsteer and love it.
retired [48 years]heavyquip mech/welder. this guy knows his stuff
So what do you do instead of sharpening the blades? Buy new ones? I would say if you are going to replace them anyway might as well sharpen them and get a few more uses out of them.
No one is gonna make a comment about German Engineering?!? This man is a genius! 👏🏻
A German engineering accessories for a Japanese brand...he should call it "Axis Engineering".
it was just creative problem solving ... I did it because I could. Seen enough stuff fail over the years ... trying to learn from other peoples mistakes .. its cheaper for me that way ... LOL.
apparently Kubota sells a lower drawbar mount, I dont know how low or what it looks like or what it cost - some guy in the comments put a part number out there, I didnt know that at the time I built this ....
and then even if I would have known it - with the current supply shortage it probably would have taken 4 month to get it, I made it in less than 2 hrs start to finish including bolting it up
I was going to after I had read all the comments. That is why German engineered equipment and tools are usually the best in the world and usually overbuilt. Go German heritage!
That looks like a good solution if you are using an attachment that requires the lower drawbar. I like that is simply bolted on as I would like to use the factory mount for 99% of the rest of the time as it gives me more ground clearance.
I have a rhino ts12 on my John Deere 990. It's 42hp and handles it surprisingly well. I keep the blades as sharp as possible. I've had good luck using a flapwheel on my angle grinder. It doesn't seem to heat the metal as much as a regular grinder disc and gives it a smoother, sharper appearance. Keep up the good work and videos.
What did you do for the rear remote? I've got a 990 also. Great little tractor.
I ran hoses from my loader control valves under the floorboards and over the axle out the back. Then mounted a pioneer hyd block on the back. I use my loader joystick to run the rear hyd.
I have 'welded' before. His welds look like artwork. Nice job. I have added Peter to my subscribed list.
I would bet there are plenty of other Kubota tractor models that could benefit from modified drawbar mounts like that. Hopefully he gets plenty of orders and can expand the options!
I want to bring my L6060 and land pride 12 ft bat wing over the next time that field needs mowed and see if it compares to the ts10
DO IT!
Talk him into doing a video and I'll make the trip, I also may be interested in that bracket for my tractor, I do alot of things I probably shouldn't do with this 6060 like pull a 9'2'' discbine and my 12 ft batwing
Peter is on point with that hitch.
AWESOME episode Tim & Christy!!!.. Peter is one talented machinist, fabricator & welder!!!.. What an amazing drawbar mount that he made!!.. Kubota engineering could take a few lessons from him.. I do a little metal fab as well, and Peter is highly talented!!.. Going to subscribe to his channel, for sure!!.. Thank you Tim & Christy.. Hi Katriel.. Have a nice weekend..
Where their is a will. Theirs a way. That's what is great about this country. For every problem their is a solution.
Your comment regarding the lift arms possibly interfering with the driveshaft are prudent. When I use my TS10 behind my 4 series TYM 574 I cannot leave the quick hitch in place and I must raise and spread the arms to the widest point. Even then they are too close for complete comfort.
Ah!German engineering day no more.
Peter was amazing. Seems like a truly amazing person.
The man knows what he is talking about. .you two put your heads together I can see many improvements in the future. .of other tractor flaws...
Peter is very talented nice to have him on your channel hope you have him back again for another project.
You should toss a few cans of the keyboard air cleaner cans in the toolbox to blow out the radiator with. It's not perfect, but anything helps trim the beard on the front of the tractor.
As good as Peter is With a welder and plasma cutter, he could just design a holder for A blower To blow off the chaff while doing this type of mowing.
@@jimmcknight3021 I've always thought about rigging up a small compressor to use. But I settled with the canned air. As long as it's dry, it blows the fins out pretty good. Just a cheap thing to have if you're cutting in really bad areas.
We keep a battery leaf blower on the roll bar
@@ColeTrain17 I got a small gas blower in the truck. I'm typically cutting under trees, in jungles, and all sorts of fun places that'd rip anything off the roll bar. Heck, I've had my box ripped off and it's mounted behind the seat.
I couldn't hit the link to Zila channel to subscribe quick enough. Just listening to him explain the weakness in the factory bracket and how he corrected those weaknesses on his sold me instantly. Thanks Tim and Christy for making this video.
hand file or wet stone mounted.... just knock off ridges...
I'd be interested in the composition of the field material. Looks like there's some goldenrod in there (which is a fairly woody herb) but I couldn't tell what any of the rest of it is. I think that's a big consideration when mowing. I have a lot of Mexican Hat wildflowers in my fields and if you mow it early it's no problem but if it's grown towards the end of summer or early fall it's like chopping small trees.
Very skilled and very knowledgeable. It's great that he was able to make this product.
The weak welds and separate plates might be an intentional point of failure, easier to fix that assembly than the casting. Just an idea.
Exactly my tought.
Looking at the size of the wing mower vs the tractor, there is no doubt the smaller LX/B series was never intended for that big of implement. A few years ago I thought it was said the B (now LX) series was more of a “landscaping tractor” as it was a little lighter in its class and therefore a little easier on yards/lawns etc. But I’m not sure on that. Anyway, very nice job with the L handling that big mower. Great idea on that drawbar! 👍
The Lx/b series is comparable in size to the JD 20xx series tractors. The original complaint was Kubota didn't make there tractors to a industry standard causing clearance issues on the cv joint. I was a bit disappointed in Kubota being a former Kubota owner myself.
I bet he can start making and selling these.... very creative thinking to a problem!
Tim I disagree the mount is higher I believe for the front mount hitch it goes from the front to back draw bar 😊
Yep, the transmission is why i bought a l5740! 6 spd is amazing!!!
Is it me or does Peter look like a big scary fella… maybe he used to neutralize “problems” in his life in Germany.
Well, it IS Halloween. Maybe we published on the right day?
LOL
Hi Tim,
Outstanding video! Peter did an excellent job of making a new part!
It overcomes the faults of the OEM part, and it's also a better design, as well as being far stronger!
I have always liked Kubota tractors, with the exception of the treadle pedal.
disappointing
Very good, long shot maybe Kubota will see this and improve their tractors, But before I bought new blades I would sharpen the one's I had, because weakening the blades is not significant to be concerned about. I suspect a sales ploy.
Love these collaboration videos with solutions. Nice welds, used dual shield for 9 years welding structural.
Leave some goldenrod for the bees!😊
This was awesome Tim, thanks Peter for showing a great modification that fixes the Kubota hitch setup.
I would like to hear from Kubota about this design. The problem I see with Peter's design is that it might shift the failure point to a more expensive part of the tractor. It's like using a side by side to tow a trailer with a load on it. It can do it but not smart.
I doubt Kubota wanted flex in the mount. why? because if the mount flexes and bends (temporary defects or permanently bends) it puts more stress on one bolt in the transaxle case than on the others. - and that ONE bolt is than more likely to strip out, if you want it to hold up you need to have the mount "as rigid as possible" to avoid flexing and damage to the transaxle .... that being said - you need a piece that "gives" if there is a problem. In my opinion in this situation is the drawbar itself and I think you can see that when I step on the bar and it flexes up and down .... if anything was caught and bending it would be the drawbar itself ....
I have a drawbar with a 2inch drop in it. I usually use it with the bend up to hold a PTO pump. Mine came with an old Deere 955. It had the same problem. Old Ford tractors use to have them as well.
Tim, when I use our tractor to mow I put the lift links down and let them float. I still watch when I turn, but it seems like there is more clearance for the PTO shaft. Check it out. Later, great video. I like Zila's FAB fix as well. I might try to convince my cousin who has the tools to try this out. I also know that I'm trying this at my own risk. As for the "Beard" I carry a 12V ARB Air compressor with a 3L Tank. The compressor is recycled from one of our trucks that had an airbag suspension for trailering horses.
Thanks Peter ,,,, you too Tim. I really got a heaping helping of knowledge from this video.
Now Peter you are one heck of a fabricator. I need you working in my equimpment shop.
Thanks Peter and you too Tractor Time With Tim
Liked Subscribed and Shared
P S I will be watching your channel Peter
don’t worry Tim I will keep watching
your TH-cam channel
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks! If you have a special project in mind, i will try to see you … of you are looking for a 9-5 or 6-6 guy … sorry, too busy already …. Lol
Tim looking at buying new tractor with this cutter . Is the Kubota the only tractor where draw bar is to close to pto shaft ? Looking at kubota , Deere , or Massey. Don’t really wanna have to fab up anything to make cutter work.
Deere or Massey are fine. At least the 1840m…
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks tim
Zila gained a new subscriber. Thank you Tim for bringing him "onboard" and introducing your audience to him. I appreciate also you circling back to a problem with PTO height/tow bar and, not only suggesting, but demonstrating a solution. Need to follow up with later video to see how solution holds up over time and to see if it interferes with operation of 3-point, etc. Matching paint may be inorder too. Thanks also to Christy for doing such a good job with camera and editing. Your narration and her camera skills did a great job telling the story.
This was a great collaboration
Thanks
That was interesting. I know next to nothing about welding, but with Peter's and Tim's explanations it was very easy to follow and understand.
💥 I sure do like that tractor! 😁👍
*Keep on tractoring!*
Grand L’s are quite nice!
Don't wait until your blades are rounded off to put 'em on the grinder. Sharpening the blades should not be brain surgery. Unless you're running over concrete blocks and old engine-blocks they'll only need a touch-up now and then.
Excellent idea of having Peter with his great skills on your episode..Peter is one talented guy. Well done TTWT and Peter.
Yes, I did enjoy this. Peter is right on top of how to design and fabricate a better chunk of steel. Good job Peter. Thanks for sharing Tim.
Good to see the L4060 doing some real work. I have an L4060HSTC on order to do hay work and after seeing this I feel I made the right choice. The 3pt arms hit just about all implements meant for full size tractors. They are in the way for the rake, baler and moco, so I remove them. Only takes a few minutes.
It can do some real work that is for sure.
And of the arms are in the way they unbolt easily ( i have to do that for the backhoe anyways)
I see a trade in in the 3310's future.
The ingenuity of the upgraded hardware is great, thanks for the very informative video- While this application doesn't specificaly apply to any of my cases, learning that using fluxcore with gas creates a weld with a bit of elastic properties is one of the many reasons why I enjoy these videos! (Getting me virtually out in a field or shop is always a nice break!)
The design was great and fabrication perfect. I'm curious though if that factory part was designed as it was to be a "fuse" that protects the massively expensive transmission housing in the event of a strike.
Thoughts?
I am now interested in the way Deere welds the brackets and such on my John Deere subcompact to compare it to what is shown here. Most of this stuff is probably good enough for what the manufacturer says the tractor is rated for. But in my opinion, allot of that just looks like corners being cut to save money and time building it. It would be nice to know overall how many breakdowns occur between the various tractor brands. No one can outright say this is shoddy workmanship by Kubota because everyone will use their machines in entirely different ways and have different outcomes. But it would be interesting to find out if Deere and others also only used the single sided welding tactics and such.
If a machine breaks because you push it too hard, that is just using the machine, shame on the operator! But when it breaks while not being pushed, that is shoddy and frankly criminal building methods being adopted by the manufacturers, shame on them! They sell us these machines knowing full-well we only buy them to put them to hard labor for us. These tractors are NOT cheap, and they need to be able to take a hard life being thrown at them, even the smaller ones. I would trust Peter's solution over that factory job any day of the week and all day long! It is not hard to see the difference and the thought that was put into it. I will be checking his channel out, and good video as always Tim!
The parts are likely engineered and assembled to a spec'd duty cycle that is some percentage of the expected life of the machine with some percentage of the rated load capacity. So, its likely not rated for 100% use at 100% load. I dont think Zila was saying it will fail, but if something gave way, it likely wouldn't be long before it catastrophically failed. I've never inspected the factory welds on my machines to see if they are flawed, but now I am going to.. He is a master at his craft, and the part he built will almost certainly outlast the machine. Did it need to be that strongly built, of course not, but it does show his thought process on making a bulletproof component.
Peter is a very wise man may God bless him
how we used to counter problems of loss of power when going through heavy cutting by just adding a fly wheel above the mover guard as a lot of people don't really know about slip pto's all pto's on tractors have what they call slip pto meaning the object can spin at twice or 3 times the speed of the pto which also minimizes strain to the pto we used to do that to our mowers on our farm in South Africa
I like his improvement I think Kubota really botched that design VS how the M series are designed
Thank goodness there are still people that can still build anything!
Peter is a talented and interesting guy. Good to see him address the issue, provide a solution and test it out. Thanks for sharing. Blessings.
Tim....sounds like you need him to make you a new drawbar holder for your LX 👍
Or…keep the drawbar and put a different tractor over it!
@@TractorTimewithTim Seeing an L60 Grand in your future.
@@TractorTimewithTim lol, very funny. But true though. Kubota's are very good utilty tractors, while I believe John Deeres are very good farm type work tractors. Both are very good tractors for the type of work they're engineered for. I love my Kubota Bx23s, but I do mostly micro logging utilty work. Have a good day Tim.
awesome job petter.
And your insurance guy hands you a heli-coil and let's you know your insurance cost is going up.
Would be interesting to know if the Kubota engineers had designed for the hitch to break before the casting?
hey tractor man do they have a bush/brush mower for the front of the tractor think that would work alot better then the rear an having it going under the tractor an tires we made one for ours tractor wish we had a pic of it it was something an worked great ppl would say hey its in front lol
Sharpen those blades the old way with a bastard file.🤣🤣🤣 Great Vid THX
Hopefully 🙏 kubota follows suit and offers the fix.
Shame I live in Sweden, would love to come over and see how my tractor would handle that mower! :)
You have to sharpen them with a oil quench the blade after sharpening.
Did Peter used to do a lot of TH-cam welding projects with "Chucke2009" ?
yes he did !
and he build a pair of aluminum Jet boats with Cleetus McFarland last year October ....
@@ZILAwelds HEH... I thought I recognized your voice. :-)
@@ZILAwelds Cool!
I drop the lower links down as low as they will go so they go under the draw bar on the farm .
I would worry about one thing. Now that the drawbar holder is super strong, if something breaks it might be the transmission housing instead of the hitch.
These modern tractors are designed to be just strong enough to work, not big and beefy like an 8N.
That was my thought exactly that the hitch was built weaker to be a sacrificial part if someone over loaded it.
I think it is more of a cost thing than anything else. Each weld has a price to it, each piece of steel has a cost to it. The design of it, with all bolts torqued to specs makes it a solid unit, but it does have some weaknesses that can be easily addressed. The 3pt can lift 2760 pounds, so the drawbar should easily be able to do at least 50% of that. The new improved drawbar mount he made has it's disadvantage too, being too low in many situations. If I used it while raking hay or baling, it would catch on the windrow and pile it up between the rear wheels, making a mess of the field. It does address the one issue many will face with full size implements such as older baler, and mowers by increasing the distance between PTO and hitch, though some do have adjustable height PTO mounts on the tongue for this. I am definitely keeping this one in mind once I get my L4060 in case I have driveline issues with the baler and moco while turning. I did use my B2410 to bale some hay, but turns were a bit scary with it running so shut it down to turn.
I doubt Kubota wanted flex in the mount. why? because if the mount flexes and bends (temporary defects or permanently bends) it puts more stress on one bolt in the transaxle case than on the others. - and that ONE bolt is than more likely to strip out, if you want it to hold up you need to have the mount "as rigid as possible" to avoid flexing and damage to the transaxle .... that being said - you need a piece that "gives" if there is a problem. In my opinion in this situation is the drawbar itself and I think you can see that when I step on the bar and it flexes up and down .... if anything was caught and bending it would be the drawbar itself ....
Guy is quite impressive.
Thanks
Yeah this is a dramatically better design than the factory one.
Very impressive. Many talented individuals.
Thanks for sharing a very informative video Tim.
do you watch framing you tubers tim
How many acres per hour can you or your viewers cut with a 12' batwing on fields like that? I'm bidding a 250 acre job and don't have enough experience with my RhinoAg 4125 to know the average over time. Thanks.
This is a 10’. …honestly not sure. Don’t do enough with it to know.
I'm surprised the mower has problems with the "stemy stuff", I thought that type of mower was supposed to be capable of cutting 1", 2" material.
It can.
Nice job guys. Zila, looks like a great solution
Awesome Thank you both.
I applaud you Tim for putting so much time and effort into trying to make an inferior tractor compare to a John Deere. Unfortunately I do not have the time to engineer and manufacturer parts for my tractor so I can fit common implements, instead I just buy the best John Deere. The owner of the tractor said it best when he said he doesn't buy a tractor to do tractor work. That's exactly what Kubota's are for.
Tim
Once again you give me knowledge of certain tractors, I have been on the fence about. No punn intended.
I have been trying to decide/research the different brands but more the models. One that has stood out was the Kubota. To further that, the tractor Squatch253 uses which is the L model I cannot remember the exact model but around the 50 HP range, impressed me. Yes the transmission is the major selling point on the L series.
So of course I am thinking the L6060 or even the M7060 would be better. I realize the M series is the beast of the Kubota line, but I am just not sure if I really need a tractor of that HP. I only have an old 1967 David Brown 990, that in it's best day had 58ish HP, and seems to do everything I need to do except be a bit less leaky, and have a bit more comfort. I watch what you put Johnny through, and am amazed at just what can be done, with not a lot of HP. The other major point is price, of course. Do I really need that much money sitting in the garage, to use 100 Hours a year. (maybe)
So I guess I will keep watching, and keep pondering the question. New may not make much sense at this time, just using around the property for brush, Carrying a few totes of firewood, and grading driveway mostly.
Keep up with the videos, really enjoy first hand look at tractors, and the comparisons.
Peter , Awesome Fab job there!! 👍
Peter build that thing rugged as hell. My only question is was the original drawbar mount designed to be a shear point as opposed to beaking out the housing it is bolted to or more damage elsewhere? I do not know kabota so i do not have an educated answer. Just curious.
I doubt Kubota wanted flex in the mount. why? because if the mount flexes and bends (temporary defects or permanently bends) it puts more stress on one bolt in the transaxle case than on the others. - and that ONE bolt is than more likely to strip out, if you want it to hold up you need to have the mount "as rigid as possible" to avoid flexing and damage to the transaxle .... that being said - you need a piece that "gives" if there is a problem. In my opinion in this situation is the drawbar itself and I think you can see that when I step on the bar and it flexes up and down .... if anything was caught and bending it would be the drawbar itself ....
Remember Tim your talking to people that sell blades. I have a welding rod that welds tool steel and railroad track back together. At the price of the blades now I will be putting a hard tip on the edge. I welded something one time and tried to turn it down in a lathe and it tore up the bit that's how hard the rod is.
Can I apply hard surface with MIG, or must I use stick welder?
I checked the KJV, NKJV, ESV, NLT, and NIV version of that verse. The NIV is my least favorite version, and it seems to be the only version that used “idol” instead of “craftsman.” NIV is usually one of my favorite versions too.
Interesting guest with skills
Awesome video! He is very knowledgeable and talented with his welding and equipment. Seems like a great guy, glad you had him on. I too liked his tractor very much. I own a Kubota b26 TLB. I don’t run the rear attachments like you but it is cable of doing so. I just dig with mine.
Very interesting video. I have a Kubota L4060, only thing I have hooked up to the drawbar is a hay wagon. Glad you liked the tractor.
ask him if he uses the stall guard on his tractor , i have the same tractor and stall guard works great for keeping the PTO RPM constant , you can even set your curse control and mow for hours .. this is an awesome tractor .. im in the process of adding a canopy on mine . waiting on an extra set of hands.
I do use stall guard - mainly for loader work though.I was thinking of building a canopy myself sort of the same steely like an L47 TLB. curse control is nice ! where do you live ? what canopy are you building ?
Nice fix to the drawbar problem, now the drawbar springing problem will need another press of bar stock and and 90 degree angle......
Great video! I am going check out how channel. I'm not sure what Peter's business model is, comma but if he doesn't have the time Or resources to make a lot of these for folks He might team up with some other small manufacturers pictures that you feature on your channel To get this product out there.
Thanks good information. I really enjoyed this video and the comments by both you guys.
Great to see ZILA on your show. How well does Vinny handle that scrub?
We'll have Vinny mowing in it...actually taller stuff...in the next week or so. Video is being edited now.
This is an awesome video! I really enjoyed seeing a quality solution to the problem.Thank you Peter for being Tim's guest star.
Excellent, Peter! Fun to watch two very good minds. Thank you both. God bless.
Still amazingly great for only 33 pto hp on a 10ft brushhog!
I am getting a rhino ag tr208. Fixed 8ft with 2 spindles. Is there a ttwt discount?!
There is not a discount that I know of.
I would suggest you take a serious look at the TS10. It will pull easier than the 208, and it will do a much better job of cutting.
@@TractorTimewithTim maybe but my business model is being portable! 3pt is much easier to load on trailer. Plus many jobs require backing into the brush which is 100x easier with a 3pt. The tr208 is 2 spindle so it will be just fine with my 50 pto hp l5740. Widest 3pt i can fit on a trailer...
Plus the ts10 is DOUBLE the price of a tr208. I am getting a tr208 for 6500. Ts10 r 13k+
Yep. Not sure about $13k, but definitely 11 or more. Totally different class of machine.
I am glad to see the grass on top I never had a bat wing before and I thought I was getting to much grass on top. I do wonder if you get grass under the black cover I am considering putting something on that hole as i am afraid the grass will cause undo heat to the gear box. The grass packs in quite a bit
Why not just make a draw bar with a drop in it, either bent or fabbed and welded?
Because you can buy that from the dealer as i found out 2 weeks AFTER i made the mount …. I had 3/8” plate, a cnc plasma table and a welder handy …. And at that point i didnt know kubota sells an s shape drawbar
More cutting !!!