Tim As a teenager I drove a Ford 8N tractor for my Uncle during the summer He had a chain about 2 feet long attached to the frame or it might have been the rear axle of the tractor on both sides The chains crossed under the 3 point and hooked with a shackle to the opposite side of the 3 point At that time he told me that it stopped the 3 point from lifting thus preventing the problem you described When we needed the 3 point to lift simply undid the snap on the chains and away we went Just fyi from my teenage years but that was along time ago now as I am 74 now lmao Have a great day
I have also chained the 3pt down to keep it from raising when i was running a single chisel plow thru really hard ground so that is an option or i am sure you could rig up a brace from the 3rd arm mount down to the horizontal drawbar to lock it in place similar to what they use on the 3pt backhoe attachments.
Taking no for an answer is hard for some folks to do. In this case, Tim has proven why no is the safest bet for trying this combination. Thanks again Tim 👍
Agreed🙊👀. Would not want to use this combination on a grade other than FLAT & certainly NOT on changing variable grades where mower & tractor not in exact same horizontal plane.
Thanks for your detailed videos and explanations of equipment. As a retired farmer I agree with what your dad always told you regarding the installation of a drawbar on a three point hitch. It typically creates more aggravation and problems. Rather than a safe or long term solution.
Tim, once again you’ve gone the “extra mile” to explore and explain capabilities, limitations, and possibilities with this follow up video. Also, you responded with persistence to the original feedback with a “workable,” albeit not a practical or recommended solution. BTW, the TX10 does a great job, even with dull blades, and mowing with a hydrostatic drive is sooo much more effective and enjoyable. Thanks for another great video with several gems of wisdom. Christie’s Scripture verse was quite appropriate. Sorry this is so long, but I feel your efforts should be applauded! Thanks again! Blessings to you and Christie.
My grandfather's played a very large role in my upbringing. Men with many years of experience in different ways of life. I chose Agriculture as my path, and daily I recall their teachings. Very very seldom have they been wrong, and so far they have never had advice too old to be appreciated. Your comment is true and to the point.
On the CV joint, we took a driveshaft very similar to yours to a local custom driveshaft manufacturer/balancer and had him replace the huge CV joint with a wide angle Double Cardin CV joint. These are strong, have a smaller OD and we never had any issues after using it for many years.
Yeah, I can hear my grandfather talking about those lift bars. And experience. Not every piece of equipment is going to work with every tractor that's just the way it is. You did more than I would have done with that tractor.
Dads advice should never be dismissed. They’ve been there and done that! Too, match your implements to your tractor or get the right tractor for the job. Good video.
I definitely believe that manufacturers have pushed people to believe that they need more horsepower than they truly need especially small farms. We see guys running haying equipment and other equipment or preforming other tasks on the farm with 100+ hp tractors that their grandfather or father ran or preformed on 20 to 70 hp tractors so I can definitely appreciate these videos you make showing these small tractors achieving their full potential. I hope other viewers will read between the lines here and also see that it's not necessarily that the tractor cannot run it power wise but that some manufacturers actually design the tractor so it cannot or cannot safely do it and that some do. I am a Kubota owner myself and know firsthand that they lack in certain places but also have advantages in others. Your videos bring up many great things that most people overlook when buying a tractor, I'm willing to bet 99% of people buying tractors never think to measure the distance between the pto and draw bar.
Used drag type shredder as a kid behind a 4320 JD (working for a neighbor) and in front of a smaller drag tandem. It was used many years before I used it and many years after. Never an unusual issue. And on turn never an issue, though we cut cotton stalks and there was no cutting while turning. And you can imagine how wide our turns were! But the no down force is a for sure on most tractors. However, the Case tractors from the late 50s to mid 60s would hydraulically lock in place at the set height. Our 800 and 2 700s had the same system. They had down force with the lever between center detent and float. Float was at the end of down and had a detent. So when I started using the Kubota L4701 I missed that system. Used to it now though. Lots of good info in this video! Thanks!
Tim you have convinced me that the TS10 mower is NOT a good fit for the Kubota LX3310. Of course I thought that with your first video on it. You have explained your reasons for not liking this combo very well and in great detail for me. You have gone way pass the time and afford I would have done. Thanks for taking the time and explanation. Good job Tim.
The older I get the smarter my Dad becomes. Tim great explanation and demonstration. Its obvious Kubota didnt want that type of mower linked to that tractor. Great job and Gob bless.
Tim, I agree with you. That cross bar is for pulling fence post and lifting heavy items. Not dragging around a heavy batwing. Its a different kind of weight and pull as compared to a plow or other 3 point attachment. By the design certain tractors are not built to handle a mower like yours. I dont know if thats for good or bad just something we should consider when making a purchase.
@@michaelmactavish1728 I’ve done that before. It’s a different kind of pull compared to Tim’s flex wing. I’ve seen the class 2 cross bars bend doing something similar to what was done in the video.
Love how you get determined to do something that is unconventional and go the extra mile to do it just to show us the why's and why nots to do certain things. Love the channel and keep it up!
I loved the 'cobble together' application. It is sometimes the most informative vs the 'just drive in, latch on, and go' whihc might not apply to my tractor.
Tim, I didn’t know you lost your dad. I’m very sorry to hear about your loss. As far as the drawbar, I used one of those on my old 53 Ford NAA with a 5-foot pull-behind brush hog and never had a bit of trouble out of it. I use one now with my Kubota when I’m pulling my flatbed trailer around the pasture.
i even used to pull a doubble axle trailer with loaded 4 cord of blocked up firewood on it and hauled it behind a small 21hp kubota G2160 wich pretty strong little beast
Tim, this is a great series. Challenging conventional wisdom and reminding us to think is such a great message. In the packaged up and passed down wisdom, we often lose the circumstances of the original intent. I’m glad I don’t need a 75+hp tractor to run a flex wing. I will be adding one to the fleet next year!
Not all tractors are made alike. Your experiences from your child hood is what helps make this channel what it is. I’m not a gardener, but my dad is whispering to me to get those potato’s planted by Good Friday.
I am an owner of an LX3310. I bought several attachments with it, including a backhoe. I love the tractor. I went back and forth between Kubota and John Deere for a long time before I made my decision, but yes I still like both. I think they each have selling points one better than the other. I enjoy your videos and your honest opinions on everything. Now that you have an LX3310 I'm sure I will gain a lot more knowledge with mine. Thanks !
Hi Tim, Thanks for taking the time to get this setup working. I think a better drawbar solution would have been one of the "A" type trailer mover attachments for a three point, with the Gooseneck ball on top and a receiver hitch on the bottom with a drawbar less the ball for the hitch.. That would have eliminated the binding of the hitch, although it is a much more costly solution versus the drawbar you got. Regarding the tractor size, I agree that the tractor is able to handle it fine. Of course like anything, common sense must be applied as well. Great Video as always!
Tim, I grew up on a small PA farm using only a Ford Ferguson tractor that didn't have a drawbar. We used that bar in the 3 pt. arms to hook implements to but there were 2 adjustable arms that fit on the upper link pin and each had a hole at the bottom for the pin on each end of the bar fitting into the 3 pt. arms. These held the hitch bar at the height needed to keep the implement safe in relation to the tractor. Also, you rarely used the PTO at the same time as a pull behind implement. IMHO I feel the set-up you have is just not safe. It's not meant for a smaller tractor in the first place. Just my opinion. Thanks for all the stuff you share with us.
So glad you were extra carefull in proving what shouldn't be done. That's your money in that equipment and it would have been a shame if something broke while you were trying that. It would be bad if the 3 point lever accidentally got pushed up. Also I can just hear the safety Sallies saying "You shouldn't be standing and kicking off the grass while the drive shafts are still turning." Love the videos and keep up the good work.
Good video you showed the tractor had the power to handle the attachment at the same time showing the attachment isn’t designed to be used with this model tractor.
Correction. I showed that the TRACTOR isn't designed to be compatible with this attachment. It is not the fault of the attachment. The tractor chose to deviate from the ASABE standard.
Agreed on the drawbar. Growing up, my neighborhood had a Halloween hayride/trick-or-treat. Single-axle trailer connected to a 3-pt floating drawbar on an old Ford. Kids kept moving to the back of the trailer to jump off and be the first to the houses...Tractor hit a bump, the trailer flipped up and dumped a half-dozen kids out on the gravel road... I just happened to be on the other trailer (2-axle trailer behind a Kubota) watching the event. No one was hurt, but...
Thanks for taking the final step to make it work. The real answer most were looking for was could the tractor power the mower. These tractors are like a Swiss army knife, they can do a whole lot of different things but there are better specific tools out there.
I have a 6ft mower that bogs down a 43HP tractor, so I would say it depends on how fast you want to drive. You notice he is not driving very fast as the tractor cannot handle faster. I would even take a guess that you can mow nearly the same area with a 6ft mower as this 12ft in the same time. It is really a power limitation here, not size of the mower or speed of the tractor.
@@court2379 I think the reason this 10ft mower works so well with lesser hp is that you are swinging three much smaller sets of blades instead of swinging one big set of blades. Momentum does cost horsepower.
@@paulkleinschmit9871 Momentum has nothing to do with the average HP, it is simply stored energy. It will help if you hit a thick spot of grass for a moment, but that will be quickly used up and then it is just the HP that has to carry it thru. One blade, or 10 doesn't really matter much other than friction losses in the additional drive components (the more blades having higher losses). The drive is selected to get about the same blade tip velocity, as that is what cuts well, regardless the diameter of the blade. The power to cut a given amount (area per time) of grass doesn't change much by using different diameter mowers. A large diameter might mulch it more though as the gras spends more time under the rotor, which would use more power. Tilting the front edge down would mitigate that if it is mulched enough already. So on a small mower you can drive faster (assuming the tractor is capable) and mow the same amount as a wider mower. There are practical limitations though like your comfort racing over a bumpy field in a tractor that has no suspension, bouncing and skipping, and the controllability at higher speeds. So keeping the speeds down is desirable to a point. A smaller less expensive mower isn't going to be uncomfortably fast (velocity) at the HP output of these little tractors.
I agree about the crossbar. We had one on our 40hp Ford tractor as a kid. The only thing we used it for was : pulling post out of ground, pulling tree branches etc
Tim, I normally never comment on these but free a dealers standpoint I agree with you 100% . I would never ever and I don't know of a tractor dealer anywhere that would recommend this. A drawbar on the 3 point hitch with a pto powered implement is just a terrible idea. It's a disaster waiting to happen and more than likely if it was used on a continuing basis it would happen. Great Job Tim!!
Tim, When I think about a mechanical design, I find myself observing the design from an efficiency point of view. I can see you have made a good effort to get the batwing mower matched up with the Kabota. As I was watching the video of you mowing with that set-up, I can see why it was difficult to turn. If you can get the cv/universal joint to align directly in line with the pivot point of the tractor connection. The turn radius will improve dramatically. If the pivot points are both the same length or at the same location, binding should be eliminated. I get that you don't have a good reason for the set-up, you do have other equipment to get the job done. However I can see it performing a lot better if you did align those pivot points. A loyal and long time following fan, keep up the great job helping us city peeps learn how farm equipment works!
You've mentioned a lot of valid concerns to think about. To solve the inability to turn, however, you could use an attachment to your 3 point that has a regular receiver for a trailer hitch. With a trailer ball, it's very handy for moving trailers without having to get off and jack. For implements, it eliminates the need for tongue jacks. I agree that because of the lack of down pressure, it might not be the best for routine field use, especially on uneven ground.
@@TractorTimewithTim I forgot most of them have a vertical piece that would interfere with the PTO shaft. You might be able to build one or modify one that I found that is square. www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640141_200640141 You could also weld a receiver tube to the hitch you bought, but with no toplink it would depend on the mower hitch pin to prevent it rotating. You're correct that Kubota should have built the tractor to ASAE standards. You've provided a very good analysis!
So glad you did this test and the previous video showing the reasons why it’s not practical. I have a LX2610 and badly wanted this combination to work. I also have a M9540 and a M135x with 15 ft batwings hooked to both, but I was wanting the 10 ft to work with my baby ‘bota for the smaller and far away properties we maintain. The M135X and 15ft rhino add up to around 17,500 lbs… plus truck and trailer. Not the most fun to be pulling around the Dallas-Fort Worth area in traffic!
Those shafts are amazing! We have a older New Holland Round 853 Baler standard CV shaft anything over a half bale in it and your turning is cut in half makes a lot of noise as you turn steeper. The manual to my flex wing cutter says the shaft takes 80 degree turn I am shy to test that but none the less its super smooth turning. My only complaint is the weight mine weighs 62 pounds heavy. They made a flip up stand to hold it but I have not adjusted it yet lol. Thanks for your videos Tim there is something for anyone in the tractor world to take from them...
TTwT, for those who say that that is too small of a tractor for that size mower, they have a point. I looked online at the Rhino specs for that TS10 mower and they say use with tractors from 35 hp to 60 hp. Yet that LX3310 has 30 hp with 27 hp at the PTO so the tractor is undersized for this task. Anyway, check me on these specs but I think I am correct(?!?!). I understand what you're saying about a trailer and yes you have to pull a trailer but not power it like you do with the mower. TTWT, I saw the first video illustrating the problems so glad you were able to get it to at least work somewhat. Anyway, interesting but that drawbar arrangement makes me nervous as well. I did not see that you were bashing Kubota with the first video but just pointing out some issues which I have experienced not with mowers but with other attachments on other equipment including in construction with John Deere, CAT, Case, Kubota, Komatsu, Bobcat, etc. such as needing another hydraulic line, bolts not matching up, etc. Liked both videos as TTwT explanations are typically very well done!! Also, that original idea on the drawbar extension could be problematic because you have created a longer lever arm with a much larger moment. Many of you along with TTwT understand this but for those who do not, a moment is simply a force times a distance. If you have 5 pounds such as a brick held by your arm at 1 foot from your body, this is 5 foot-pounds (5# x 1-foot). Now extend that 5 pound brick out to 2 feet from your body and you double that moment to 10 foot-pounds of course since 5# x 2-feet = 10 ft-pounds. Now go to 3-feet and you have 15-foot pounds (5# x 3-feet). For anyone that remembers their high-school physics or college physics, this moment-arm concept is important in these situations. That's what Tim was noting and something to always be concerned about.
The nice thing about hooking the mower up to the lift arms is that you can pick up the front of it to increase ground clearance! Kidding, don't try that. But if you do try that, make sure you get it on video.... An event like that could make your channel blow up about like the back end of the tractor would. That mower did a REALLY nice job. Very impressive implement.
Also that CV joint is really meant to be centered over where the mower hooks to the drawbar, if if you could fit it into the PTO shaft area without the extension/PTOlink you would probably start getting vibrations while turning sharply; I'm also assuming there's another joint where the shaft connects to the gearbox and that one is a standard u-joint.
I do wonder though if you could make a 3pt lock out bar utilizing the built in drawbar that would sandwich the 3pt arms in place? If it has power beyond like my 3e you could hook to the backhoe return port instead of the port that returns to the 3pt, although you're back to suspending weight from the drawbar if the 3pt bleeds down too and leaving the 3pt hooked up to the lever would be asking for trouble, lol.
I listened to the nay sayers when I got my 3901 and went with a 5’ HD mower. I can run it full speed in Mid range no problem. I really wish I had got the 6 or 7 footer. I want to eventually get the 12’ bat wing for compact tractors. I have 40 acres I now twice a year and it takes me a week to
The constant velocity joint explains the huge boot at the PTO shaft hook up and then you have that and the shaft cover that the shaft rotates in so that all of the Darwin award candidates have less chance of winning. My father did not have the difficulties you did with his old pull mower/shredder (non-folding 10 foot) in getting it all hooked up for use but it also had the traditional U-joints in the shaft that really are not designed to be used while making anything more than a shallow turn. So when he was cutting cotton stalks after harvest (when he grew cotton a few years ago) he would disengage the PTO at the end of the field and then reengage it after making his turn so as not to create the torsional stress that a sharper angle on the U-joint would create that would tear the U-joint apart after a while. That torsional stress is why if you look at the drive shaft on a very long heavy haul truck, they might have two or more U-joints in the shaft, supported by carrier bearings, between the transmission and the differential.
Don't like that type of drawbar. Most owners of that size tractor will pull a 5-6 foot brush hog. Another great video! This was very educational to see the working limits of a compact tractor with this large of a mower!
Can I grew up with a 8N Ford that did not have a belly mounted drawbar we use a draw bar just like what you just use on that tractor but we had stays that went from the ends of the draw bar up to the top link to keep it from moving up and down then we also use stabilizers to keep it moving from side to side and that's all we ever used when Dad was when we was wrecking hay we have a frame that we bolted to the drawbar and hits the bottom of the left arms to put it out a little bit farther so we can make tighter turns I agree with you use that without a A-Frame to the top link good job be careful God bless
Same here, we had a Ferguson TO20 with the same stabilizer links to the top link. Also used anti sway bars for cultivation. Also without stabilizer bars one cannot back up without lift arms lifting up.
A side note on the 3PH cross bar... I've seen (many, many moons ago!) a pair of brackets/bars/arms that go from the tractor's center link attachment point down at an angle to the pins on the cross bar that go through the lower links of the 3PH. These lock the 3PH into a specific height position. These might address your valid point about the float issue of the cross bar. However, In your specific example, they might also completely interfere with the PTO shaft. Note that these bars a different than the single drawbar stabilizer "tower" which uses the standard 3PH center link and bolts to the holes in the cross bar. This style of draw bar stabilizer completely prohibits use of the PTO for anything.
I forged another bull dog to replace yours right after you left and a little girl who is in 4H watched it closely from beginning to end so I gave that one to her. Guess I'll have to forge number 12 for the fair. Good seeing you and your wonderful family.
I know its not ideal, but when using those 3 point hitch bars there should be link bars going to the top link, that's what allot run on vintage tractors that mainly run trailers here they lock there 3 point hitch solid specifically for the reason you state, not picking just sharing knowledge. another great vid from you, Keep up the great work.
Hello TTWT, I really enjoy your youtube channel, I saw on one youtube channel a gentlemen with a battery leaf blower that he takes with him while he uses his tractor because he has to stop once in a while to clean off the front grill of grass & debris. When you was cleaning the top of flex wing with your boots that came to my mind & maybe if you Tim might have one, you can take it with you to clean off the tractor or what ever may need it. Just a thought :).
Now u can also put the lock out bars that thay youse on the Ford tractor like the 9n 2n and 8n that go from top link to draw bar pins on leek arms to keep it from moving up and down to keep it from hitting the pto
the CV joint needs to be on the other end of the pto shaft and that solves all the drawbar/ hitch issues. The tractors I remember had hydraulic cylinders on the lowr arms, probably a modification, which would have kept the 3 point from rising. Pulling with a draw bar was not a common practice where I was at either because of turning radius issues, and limits imposed by the strength of the draw bar. I know we broke a couple of them when the hay wagon got stuck or ran over a rock.
Good points Tim... the other thing with the cross bar as a hitch you have to watch out for... if you're going down hill the weigh of the mower can push the 3pt hitch arms up. That wouldn't be pretty either.
Great video. I have an LX2610 and while I don't foresee a flex-wing mower in my future, the issues you pointed out about a trailer forcing up the three point hitch were not on my radar. As a newbie that is a GREAT tip about a potentially expensive mistake. I bent my tractor in the first 15 seconds I was in the seat...wouldn't want to do it again! Thanks for the pointer! 👍😎
To your comment about not using the 3pt style hitch: Seems to me that back in the day '40s & '50s Ford's had two flat accessory bars that spanned from the 3pt top link mount, at the gear housing, down to each 3pt lift arm, fit much like the lower lift arm stabilizers, creating a triangulated support. This made the hitch more or less Ridgid to the tractor and provided the necessary downward force that you spoke of.
HAY TIM LOVE YOUR VIDEOS... THE OLD INTERNATIONALS HAD A PLATE BOLTED TO THE FAST HITCH, YOU COULD BOLT THAT TO YOUR STRAIGHT BARE, THAT WOULD MOVE YOUR MOWER OUT LITTLE, ALSO IF YOU REMOVED THE PTO COVER AND ADD STATION BARES LIKE THE OLD 2N FORDS AND OTHER TRACTORS USED TO HOLD THE 3 POINT ARMS FROM MOVING, THEN YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THEM GOING UP AND DOWN. AS FOR YOUR RADIAS OF TURN, WELL YOU MIGHT STILL BE A LITTLE SHORT BECAUSE OF THE PTO
In the olden days before a fixed drawbar the red Massey Ferguson 35 I learned to drive on had 2 stabiliser bars went from the top link connection on the tractor to the ends of the bottom link arms which stopped the drawbar from lifting up
That is a really nice brush hog. Yes I will be very interested to see the 2038R comparison. And maybe even mention the 2032R capabilities for this TS10. Thanks, Bob
Hi tim i live in the netherlands and have a older iseki we make hay with it we use a little small squarebaler and had the same problem also used a drawbar it works good for us we hung a little weight under the drawbar so that it doesn’t come up
This all comes back to what i would say suiting your machine to the needs you have ! Some stuff made these days either requires specific equipment or serious modifications or may just simply will not work at all ! Safety and equipment reliability make a huge difference i let those do the talking
One question. What about fuel consumption. Say you had a bigger 50-60 hp tractor are you getting way less fuel consumption with that Kubota or John Deere compact or not as much fuel savings as you would think 🤔 ? I'm always curious about fuel per mow. Also Why not just use a chain to chain the 3 point lift arms down ( that's what I do when I'm moving a trailer with my 3130).
Welp it works butt!! I understand your thoughts. I do not pull implements on a draw bar. Especially pto. I love that mower. Wish i could wing it !! Lol. Maybe another year I'll get one. It does a fantastic job.
There's a video of an L3560 with cab pulling the Rhino TS10. That video is actually how I happened across this one . The operator had no issues even in the thickest grass. The LX series is NOT designed for this type of equipment at all. It is a bridge between Kubota's BX and L series tractor. The L series, like the one you have, would be more suitable for this equipment.
I would also hear my late father saying don't pull off the 3pt hitch! I personally prefer Kubota for several reasons including the treadle peddle. That being said I agree they are a little too petite in the rear when it comes to the shaft and drawbar. Deere gives you a little more room to work with in the back. Personally I think the mower is pushing it a bit depending on grass condition and how hilly it is. I think I would say the tractor is right on the bleeding edge of being able to do it.
I agree with you Tim 110% those lift arms and that bar was not meant to pull anything other than dragging something behind you such as a log on a bigger tractor that you didn't want digging in the ground as you pull the log or for traction. There is no way I would ever pull a implement with that bar.
Let's face it Tim John Deere is king. Thanks for satisfying those that want to see it good job. Kubota is designed for three point tools till you go bigger.
To eliminate the float issue with the drawbar, get longer links to go between the lift arms and the lower 3 point arms. The longer links would put the maximum position of the 3pt. at the height you want to run your drawbar. There is no way for the drawbar to come up from that point, as it is already as high as possible.
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Tim As a teenager I drove a Ford 8N tractor for my Uncle during the summer He had a chain about 2 feet long attached to the frame or it might have been the rear axle of the tractor on both sides The chains crossed under the 3 point and hooked with a shackle to the opposite side of the 3 point At that time he told me that it stopped the 3 point from lifting thus preventing the problem you described When we needed the 3 point to lift simply undid the snap on the chains and away we went Just fyi from my teenage years but that was along time ago now as I am 74 now lmao Have a great day
I have also chained the 3pt down to keep it from raising when i was running a single chisel plow thru really hard ground so that is an option or i am sure you could rig up a brace from the 3rd arm mount down to the horizontal drawbar to lock it in place similar to what they use on the 3pt backhoe attachments.
Taking no for an answer is hard for some folks to do. In this case, Tim has proven why no is the safest bet for trying this combination. Thanks again Tim 👍
Agreed🙊👀. Would not want to use this combination on a grade other than FLAT & certainly NOT on changing variable grades where mower & tractor not in exact same horizontal plane.
Indeed lol
Tim agree with you on the crossbar use. That’s scary and a mess waiting to happen.
Thanks for your detailed videos and explanations of equipment. As a retired farmer I agree with what your dad always told you regarding the installation of a drawbar on a three point hitch. It typically creates more aggravation and problems. Rather than a safe or long term solution.
Tim, once again you’ve gone the “extra mile” to explore and explain capabilities, limitations, and possibilities with this follow up video. Also, you responded with persistence to the original feedback with a “workable,” albeit not a practical or recommended solution. BTW, the TX10 does a great job, even with dull blades, and mowing with a hydrostatic drive is sooo much more effective and enjoyable. Thanks for another great video with several gems of wisdom. Christie’s Scripture verse was quite appropriate. Sorry this is so long, but I feel your efforts should be applauded! Thanks again! Blessings to you and Christie.
As I have grown older, I have learned that voice of wisdom in my ear from my father is very seldom wrong.
My grandfather's played a very large role in my upbringing. Men with many years of experience in different ways of life. I chose Agriculture as my path, and daily I recall their teachings. Very very seldom have they been wrong, and so far they have never had advice too old to be appreciated. Your comment is true and to the point.
There is something very satisfying watching that mower mow down that field. The finished product looks good. Big mower.
I agree
On the CV joint, we took a driveshaft very similar to yours to a local custom driveshaft manufacturer/balancer and had him replace the huge CV joint with a wide angle Double Cardin CV joint.
These are strong, have a smaller OD and we never had any issues after using it for many years.
Hey Tim, I’m impressed with the effort you put into educating your audience. I really enjoy your content.
Yeah, I can hear my grandfather talking about those lift bars. And experience. Not every piece of equipment is going to work with every tractor that's just the way it is. You did more than I would have done with that tractor.
Good video. I'm glad you explained about the crossbar and the fact that it can easily rise because of no down pressure on the arms.
Tim one of the main reasons I like this channel is you seen to always challenge our old ways that we were taught in some cases.
Dads advice should never be dismissed. They’ve been there and done that! Too, match your implements to your tractor or get the right tractor for the job. Good video.
I definitely believe that manufacturers have pushed people to believe that they need more horsepower than they truly need especially small farms. We see guys running haying equipment and other equipment or preforming other tasks on the farm with 100+ hp tractors that their grandfather or father ran or preformed on 20 to 70 hp tractors so I can definitely appreciate these videos you make showing these small tractors achieving their full potential. I hope other viewers will read between the lines here and also see that it's not necessarily that the tractor cannot run it power wise but that some manufacturers actually design the tractor so it cannot or cannot safely do it and that some do. I am a Kubota owner myself and know firsthand that they lack in certain places but also have advantages in others. Your videos bring up many great things that most people overlook when buying a tractor, I'm willing to bet 99% of people buying tractors never think to measure the distance between the pto and draw bar.
Used drag type shredder as a kid behind a 4320 JD (working for a neighbor) and in front of a smaller drag tandem. It was used many years before I used it and many years after. Never an unusual issue. And on turn never an issue, though we cut cotton stalks and there was no cutting while turning. And you can imagine how wide our turns were! But the no down force is a for sure on most tractors. However, the Case tractors from the late 50s to mid 60s would hydraulically lock in place at the set height. Our 800 and 2 700s had the same system. They had down force with the lever between center detent and float. Float was at the end of down and had a detent. So when I started using the Kubota L4701 I missed that system. Used to it now though. Lots of good info in this video! Thanks!
We used 9 hole draw bars for years only difference we use fixed bars from link arms to top link so arms are fixed in position you set them
That's what was used on our Ferguson TEA-20 65 years ago
Tim you have convinced me that the TS10 mower is NOT a good fit for the Kubota LX3310. Of course I thought that with your first video on it. You have explained your reasons for not liking this combo very well and in great detail for me. You have gone way pass the time and afford I would have done. Thanks for taking the time and explanation. Good job Tim.
that mower would accully fit on all of the kubota M series
The older I get the smarter my Dad becomes. Tim great explanation and demonstration. Its obvious Kubota didnt want that type of mower linked to that tractor. Great job and Gob bless.
I own several kubota's and I think you do very good and fair reviews, as well as content on your videos.
Tim, I agree with you. That cross bar is for pulling fence post and lifting heavy items. Not dragging around a heavy batwing. Its a different kind of weight and pull as compared to a plow or other 3 point attachment. By the design certain tractors are not built to handle a mower like yours. I dont know if thats for good or bad just something we should consider when making a purchase.
i used to use the cross bar on a m8540 for towing a truck to a gradge for repairs wich pretty handy
@@michaelmactavish1728 I’ve done that before. It’s a different kind of pull compared to Tim’s flex wing. I’ve seen the class 2 cross bars bend doing something similar to what was done in the video.
Love how you get determined to do something that is unconventional and go the extra mile to do it just to show us the why's and why nots to do certain things. Love the channel and keep it up!
The honest review is appreciated...especially highlighting the safety point with the drawbar...I was told the same thing.
I loved the 'cobble together' application. It is sometimes the most informative vs the 'just drive in, latch on, and go' whihc might not apply to my tractor.
I'll second that.
Tim, I didn’t know you lost your dad. I’m very sorry to hear about your loss. As far as the drawbar, I used one of those on my old 53 Ford NAA with a 5-foot pull-behind brush hog and never had a bit of trouble out of it. I use one now with my Kubota when I’m pulling my flatbed trailer around the pasture.
i even used to pull a doubble axle trailer with loaded 4 cord of blocked up firewood on it and hauled it behind a small 21hp kubota G2160 wich pretty strong little beast
@@michaelmactavish1728 they really are stout little tractors. I’ve had my flatbed piled high with brush that I cut and the tractor pulls it just fine.
@@JeremyTVOK yeah there pretty tough beast
Tim, this is a great series. Challenging conventional wisdom and reminding us to think is such a great message. In the packaged up and passed down wisdom, we often lose the circumstances of the original intent. I’m glad I don’t need a 75+hp tractor to run a flex wing. I will be adding one to the fleet next year!
Not all tractors are made alike. Your experiences from your child hood is what helps make this channel what it is. I’m not a gardener, but my dad is whispering to me to get those potato’s planted by Good Friday.
I am an owner of an LX3310. I bought several attachments with it, including a backhoe. I love the tractor. I went back and forth between Kubota and John Deere for a long time before I made my decision, but yes I still like both. I think they each have selling points one better than the other. I enjoy your videos and your honest opinions on everything. Now that you have an LX3310 I'm sure I will gain a lot more knowledge with mine. Thanks !
Nice machine. Love the 4 cylinder engine.
Had second regen already. 31.9 hours. Really surprised it regens that often.
@@TractorTimewithTim I've experienced the same thing with regens. That is surprising.
The old IH tractor fast hitch had a diamond shape plate for the 3 pt. drawbar so you could turn implements with them.
the IH nitch was called a snap hitch and not a 3 point hitch. Hate to try to correct you
Hate to correct YOU, but ‘Fast Hitch’ is the correct name for the old IH solution. Worked pretty well!
I agree, you are not bashing Kubota. I think pointing out the deficiencies are noteworthy. I also would not use a cross-link drawbar.
Hi Tim,
Thanks for taking the time to get this setup working. I think a better drawbar solution would have been one of the "A" type trailer mover attachments for a three point, with the Gooseneck ball on top and a receiver hitch on the bottom with a drawbar less the ball for the hitch.. That would have eliminated the binding of the hitch, although it is a much more costly solution versus the drawbar you got.
Regarding the tractor size, I agree that the tractor is able to handle it fine. Of course like anything, common sense must be applied as well.
Great Video as always!
Looks like the mower itself does a really nice job!
Tim, I grew up on a small PA farm using only a Ford Ferguson tractor that didn't have a drawbar. We used that bar in the 3 pt. arms to hook implements to but there were 2 adjustable arms that fit on the upper link pin and each had a hole at the bottom for the pin on each end of the bar fitting into the 3 pt. arms. These held the hitch bar at the height needed to keep the implement safe in relation to the tractor. Also, you rarely used the PTO at the same time as a pull behind implement. IMHO I feel the set-up you have is just not safe. It's not meant for a smaller tractor in the first place. Just my opinion.
Thanks for all the stuff you share with us.
So glad you were extra carefull in proving what shouldn't be done. That's your money in that equipment and it would have been a shame if something broke while you were trying that. It would be bad if the 3 point lever accidentally got pushed up. Also I can just hear the safety Sallies saying "You shouldn't be standing and kicking off the grass while the drive shafts are still turning."
Love the videos and keep up the good work.
Good video you showed the tractor had the power to handle the attachment at the same time showing the attachment isn’t designed to be used with this model tractor.
Correction. I showed that the TRACTOR isn't designed to be compatible with this attachment. It is not the fault of the attachment. The tractor chose to deviate from the ASABE standard.
@@TractorTimewithTim I can totally agree with that!
Awesome video I agree that set up will work but not ideal or safe setup
I know you were here just to eye the kubota. We know you really want another one. Lol 😂
That mower is NOT just a trailer.....it's hooked to the pto!!
Agreed on the drawbar. Growing up, my neighborhood had a Halloween hayride/trick-or-treat. Single-axle trailer connected to a 3-pt floating drawbar on an old Ford. Kids kept moving to the back of the trailer to jump off and be the first to the houses...Tractor hit a bump, the trailer flipped up and dumped a half-dozen kids out on the gravel road... I just happened to be on the other trailer (2-axle trailer behind a Kubota) watching the event. No one was hurt, but...
Thanks for taking the final step to make it work. The real answer most were looking for was could the tractor power the mower. These tractors are like a Swiss army knife, they can do a whole lot of different things but there are better specific tools out there.
I have a 6ft mower that bogs down a 43HP tractor, so I would say it depends on how fast you want to drive. You notice he is not driving very fast as the tractor cannot handle faster. I would even take a guess that you can mow nearly the same area with a 6ft mower as this 12ft in the same time. It is really a power limitation here, not size of the mower or speed of the tractor.
@@court2379 I think the reason this 10ft mower works so well with lesser hp is that you are swinging three much smaller sets of blades instead of swinging one big set of blades. Momentum does cost horsepower.
Yes! And I saw a video on this once…from a Rhino dealer. Unfortunately, I cannot find it now.
@@paulkleinschmit9871 Momentum has nothing to do with the average HP, it is simply stored energy. It will help if you hit a thick spot of grass for a moment, but that will be quickly used up and then it is just the HP that has to carry it thru. One blade, or 10 doesn't really matter much other than friction losses in the additional drive components (the more blades having higher losses). The drive is selected to get about the same blade tip velocity, as that is what cuts well, regardless the diameter of the blade. The power to cut a given amount (area per time) of grass doesn't change much by using different diameter mowers. A large diameter might mulch it more though as the gras spends more time under the rotor, which would use more power. Tilting the front edge down would mitigate that if it is mulched enough already.
So on a small mower you can drive faster (assuming the tractor is capable) and mow the same amount as a wider mower. There are practical limitations though like your comfort racing over a bumpy field in a tractor that has no suspension, bouncing and skipping, and the controllability at higher speeds. So keeping the speeds down is desirable to a point. A smaller less expensive mower isn't going to be uncomfortably fast (velocity) at the HP output of these little tractors.
@Court based on experience, I simply disagree. This mower pulls nearly as easy as a 6’ single spindle.
I agree about the crossbar. We had one on our 40hp Ford tractor as a kid. The only thing we used it for was : pulling post out of ground, pulling tree branches etc
Great explanations on the tractors limitations, thanks! However, the batwing sure makes quick work of mowing some acreage.
And it does a great job too! A 5’ single spindle would leave tire tracks!
Tim, I normally never comment on these but free a dealers standpoint I agree with you 100% . I would never ever and I don't know of a tractor dealer anywhere that would recommend this. A drawbar on the 3 point hitch with a pto powered implement is just a terrible idea. It's a disaster waiting to happen and more than likely if it was used on a continuing basis it would happen. Great Job Tim!!
Tim, When I think about a mechanical design, I find myself observing the design from an efficiency point of view. I can see you have made a good effort to get the batwing mower matched up with the Kabota. As I was watching the video of you mowing with that set-up, I can see why it was difficult to turn. If you can get the cv/universal joint to align directly in line with the pivot point of the tractor connection. The turn radius will improve dramatically. If the pivot points are both the same length or at the same location, binding should be eliminated. I get that you don't have a good reason for the set-up, you do have other equipment to get the job done. However I can see it performing a lot better if you did align those pivot points. A loyal and long time following fan, keep up the great job helping us city peeps learn how farm equipment works!
You've mentioned a lot of valid concerns to think about. To solve the inability to turn, however, you could use an attachment to your 3 point that has a regular receiver for a trailer hitch. With a trailer ball, it's very handy for moving trailers without having to get off and jack. For implements, it eliminates the need for tongue jacks. I agree that because of the lack of down pressure, it might not be the best for routine field use, especially on uneven ground.
…but how would the PTO shaft fit?
@@TractorTimewithTim I forgot most of them have a vertical piece that would interfere with the PTO shaft. You might be able to build one or modify one that I found that is square. www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640141_200640141
You could also weld a receiver tube to the hitch you bought, but with no toplink it would depend on the mower hitch pin to prevent it rotating. You're correct that Kubota should have built the tractor to ASAE standards. You've provided a very good analysis!
Nice job figuring that out! That is a really nice mower.
Thank you for giving it a try and working the new LX hard. I was impressed with the 6ft heavy duty cutter from previous videos.
So glad you did this test and the previous video showing the reasons why it’s not practical. I have a LX2610 and badly wanted this combination to work. I also have a M9540 and a M135x with 15 ft batwings hooked to both, but I was wanting the 10 ft to work with my baby ‘bota for the smaller and far away properties we maintain. The M135X and 15ft rhino add up to around 17,500 lbs… plus truck and trailer. Not the most fun to be pulling around the Dallas-Fort Worth area in traffic!
I think you’ll need a slightly larger tractor.
I gave a Kubota (L3560), and I do not think you are being to harsh on Kubota. Keep up the good work.
I agree with you, advise from your Dad is invaluable, and once gone is a void that can no longer be filled. That Rhino Ag sure does a nice job.
Those shafts are amazing! We have a older New Holland Round 853 Baler standard CV shaft anything over a half bale in it and your turning is cut in half makes a lot of noise as you turn steeper. The manual to my flex wing cutter says the shaft takes 80 degree turn I am shy to test that but none the less its super smooth turning. My only complaint is the weight mine weighs 62 pounds heavy. They made a flip up stand to hold it but I have not adjusted it yet lol. Thanks for your videos Tim there is something for anyone in the tractor world to take from them...
lol the ending, I actually bought a cordless leaf blower to blow the thing off before folding they collect a lot
TTwT, for those who say that that is too small of a tractor for that size mower, they have a point. I looked online at the Rhino specs for that TS10 mower and they say use with tractors from 35 hp to 60 hp. Yet that LX3310 has 30 hp with 27 hp at the PTO so the tractor is undersized for this task. Anyway, check me on these specs but I think I am correct(?!?!). I understand what you're saying about a trailer and yes you have to pull a trailer but not power it like you do with the mower. TTWT, I saw the first video illustrating the problems so glad you were able to get it to at least work somewhat. Anyway, interesting but that drawbar arrangement makes me nervous as well. I did not see that you were bashing Kubota with the first video but just pointing out some issues which I have experienced not with mowers but with other attachments on other equipment including in construction with John Deere, CAT, Case, Kubota, Komatsu, Bobcat, etc. such as needing another hydraulic line, bolts not matching up, etc. Liked both videos as TTwT explanations are typically very well done!! Also, that original idea on the drawbar extension could be problematic because you have created a longer lever arm with a much larger moment. Many of you along with TTwT understand this but for those who do not, a moment is simply a force times a distance. If you have 5 pounds such as a brick held by your arm at 1 foot from your body, this is 5 foot-pounds (5# x 1-foot). Now extend that 5 pound brick out to 2 feet from your body and you double that moment to 10 foot-pounds of course since 5# x 2-feet = 10 ft-pounds. Now go to 3-feet and you have 15-foot pounds (5# x 3-feet). For anyone that remembers their high-school physics or college physics, this moment-arm concept is important in these situations. That's what Tim was noting and something to always be concerned about.
Rated for 25hp if pulled by hydrostatic tractor.
The nice thing about hooking the mower up to the lift arms is that you can pick up the front of it to increase ground clearance!
Kidding, don't try that. But if you do try that, make sure you get it on video.... An event like that could make your channel blow up about like the back end of the tractor would.
That mower did a REALLY nice job. Very impressive implement.
Also that CV joint is really meant to be centered over where the mower hooks to the drawbar, if if you could fit it into the PTO shaft area without the extension/PTOlink you would probably start getting vibrations while turning sharply; I'm also assuming there's another joint where the shaft connects to the gearbox and that one is a standard u-joint.
I do wonder though if you could make a 3pt lock out bar utilizing the built in drawbar that would sandwich the 3pt arms in place? If it has power beyond like my 3e you could hook to the backhoe return port instead of the port that returns to the 3pt, although you're back to suspending weight from the drawbar if the 3pt bleeds down too and leaving the 3pt hooked up to the lever would be asking for trouble, lol.
I listened to the nay sayers when I got my 3901 and went with a 5’ HD mower. I can run it full speed in Mid range no problem. I really wish I had got the 6 or 7 footer. I want to eventually get the 12’ bat wing for compact tractors. I have 40 acres I now twice a year and it takes me a week to
I would recommend this 10’ flex wing for your 3901. You’ll need the drop drawbar option.
In ag school, I was taught that the 3PH was for 3PH attachments, not for use as a drawbar, for exactly the reason you mentioned.
GREAT JOB MOWING. IT LOOKS CLEAN.
The constant velocity joint explains the huge boot at the PTO shaft hook up and then you have that and the shaft cover that the shaft rotates in so that all of the Darwin award candidates have less chance of winning.
My father did not have the difficulties you did with his old pull mower/shredder (non-folding 10 foot) in getting it all hooked up for use but it also had the traditional U-joints in the shaft that really are not designed to be used while making anything more than a shallow turn. So when he was cutting cotton stalks after harvest (when he grew cotton a few years ago) he would disengage the PTO at the end of the field and then reengage it after making his turn so as not to create the torsional stress that a sharper angle on the U-joint would create that would tear the U-joint apart after a while.
That torsional stress is why if you look at the drive shaft on a very long heavy haul truck, they might have two or more U-joints in the shaft, supported by carrier bearings, between the transmission and the differential.
Don't like that type of drawbar. Most owners of that size tractor will pull a 5-6 foot brush hog. Another great video! This was very educational to see the working limits of a compact tractor with this large of a mower!
There was at one time adjustable stabilizing bars that went from the draw bar to the top link pins to keep the draw bar where you wanted it
The tower area looks much more manageable then it was when you all started getting it back into shape!
Yep! One more area to clean up!
Can I grew up with a 8N Ford that did not have a belly mounted drawbar we use a draw bar just like what you just use on that tractor but we had stays that went from the ends of the draw bar up to the top link to keep it from moving up and down then we also use stabilizers to keep it moving from side to side and that's all we ever used when Dad was when we was wrecking hay we have a frame that we bolted to the drawbar and hits the bottom of the left arms to put it out a little bit farther so we can make tighter turns I agree with you use that without a A-Frame to the top link good job be careful God bless
Same here, we had a Ferguson TO20 with the same stabilizer links to the top link. Also used anti sway bars for cultivation. Also without stabilizer bars one cannot back up without lift arms lifting up.
The drive shafts to the spindles are lacking safety chains, so the shields are spinning.
A side note on the 3PH cross bar... I've seen (many, many moons ago!) a pair of brackets/bars/arms that go from the tractor's center link attachment point down at an angle to the pins on the cross bar that go through the lower links of the 3PH. These lock the 3PH into a specific height position. These might address your valid point about the float issue of the cross bar. However, In your specific example, they might also completely interfere with the PTO shaft. Note that these bars a different than the single drawbar stabilizer "tower" which uses the standard 3PH center link and bolts to the holes in the cross bar. This style of draw bar stabilizer completely prohibits use of the PTO for anything.
I forged another bull dog to replace yours right after you left and a little girl who is in 4H watched it closely from beginning to end so I gave that one to her. Guess I'll have to forge number 12 for the fair. Good seeing you and your wonderful family.
Then I forged 3 more and they are gone! Who let the dogs out?!!!
I know its not ideal, but when using those 3 point hitch bars there should be link bars going to the top link, that's what allot run on vintage tractors that mainly run trailers here they lock there 3 point hitch solid specifically for the reason you state, not picking just sharing knowledge. another great vid from you, Keep up the great work.
Hello TTWT, I really enjoy your youtube channel, I saw on one youtube channel a gentlemen with a battery leaf blower that he takes with him while he uses his tractor because he has to stop once in a while to clean off the front grill of grass & debris. When you was cleaning the top of flex wing with your boots that came to my mind & maybe if you Tim might have one, you can take it with you to clean off the tractor or what ever may need it. Just a thought :).
Something new to have remote lines on this small of tractor or was it a special order?
Now u can also put the lock out bars that thay youse on the Ford tractor like the 9n 2n and 8n that go from top link to draw bar pins on leek arms to keep it from moving up and down to keep it from hitting the pto
Yes sir can you still use the front end loader while using the mower
the CV joint needs to be on the other end of the pto shaft and that solves all the drawbar/ hitch issues. The tractors I remember had hydraulic cylinders on the lowr arms, probably a modification, which would have kept the 3 point from rising. Pulling with a draw bar was not a common practice where I was at either because of turning radius issues, and limits imposed by the strength of the draw bar. I know we broke a couple of them when the hay wagon got stuck or ran over a rock.
Good points Tim... the other thing with the cross bar as a hitch you have to watch out for... if you're going down hill the weigh of the mower can push the 3pt hitch arms up. That wouldn't be pretty either.
Great video. I have an LX2610 and while I don't foresee a flex-wing mower in my future, the issues you pointed out about a trailer forcing up the three point hitch were not on my radar. As a newbie that is a GREAT tip about a potentially expensive mistake. I bent my tractor in the first 15 seconds I was in the seat...wouldn't want to do it again! Thanks for the pointer! 👍😎
Oh, if you are like the rest of us, you WILL bend or break it again! Just part of the ownership experience!
Thanks for the kind words!
That little mower is impressive
Great video Tim. I do believe you are spot on. I do not like how that draw bar binds with the mower hitch.
Good job again 👏.. thanks for the detailed explanation of why not to ... honesty is the best policy!!
Sure is a fine rotary cutter and the cut is excellent!
To your comment about not using the 3pt style hitch: Seems to me that back in the day '40s & '50s Ford's had two flat accessory bars that spanned from the 3pt top link mount, at the gear housing, down to each 3pt lift arm, fit much like the lower lift arm stabilizers, creating a triangulated support. This made the hitch more or less Ridgid to the tractor and provided the necessary downward force that you spoke of.
…but they don’t have that now.
That mower is amazing 👏 does a superb job 👏👌👍.
HAY TIM LOVE YOUR VIDEOS... THE OLD INTERNATIONALS HAD A PLATE BOLTED TO THE FAST HITCH, YOU COULD BOLT THAT TO YOUR STRAIGHT BARE, THAT WOULD MOVE YOUR MOWER OUT LITTLE, ALSO IF YOU REMOVED THE PTO COVER AND ADD STATION BARES LIKE THE OLD 2N FORDS AND OTHER TRACTORS USED TO HOLD THE 3 POINT ARMS FROM MOVING, THEN YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THEM GOING UP AND DOWN. AS FOR YOUR RADIAS OF TURN, WELL YOU MIGHT STILL BE A LITTLE SHORT BECAUSE OF THE PTO
When I was kid we had one of those drawbars with 2 bars that kept it in the lower position but you could bend them by lifting the 3 point hitch.
In the olden days before a fixed drawbar the red Massey Ferguson 35 I learned to drive on had 2 stabiliser bars went from the top link connection on the tractor to the ends of the bottom link arms which stopped the drawbar from lifting up
That is a really nice brush hog. Yes I will be very interested to see the 2038R comparison. And maybe even mention the 2032R capabilities for this TS10. Thanks, Bob
32 and 38 identical, cept for a couple of horsepower.
@@TractorTimewithTim Right, I was wondering the rear PTO HP on the 2032R.
She cuts really well
Hi tim i live in the netherlands and have a older iseki we make hay with it we use a little small squarebaler and had the same problem also used a drawbar it works good for us we hung a little weight under the drawbar so that it doesn’t come up
This all comes back to what i would say suiting your machine to the needs you have ! Some stuff made these days either requires specific equipment or serious modifications or may just simply will not work at all ! Safety and equipment reliability make a huge difference i let those do the talking
One question. What about fuel consumption. Say you had a bigger 50-60 hp tractor are you getting way less fuel consumption with that Kubota or John Deere compact or not as much fuel savings as you would think 🤔 ?
I'm always curious about fuel per mow.
Also Why not just use a chain to chain the 3 point lift arms down ( that's what I do when I'm moving a trailer with my 3130).
Welp it works butt!! I understand your thoughts. I do not pull implements on a draw bar. Especially pto. I love that mower. Wish i could wing it !! Lol. Maybe another year I'll get one. It does a fantastic job.
i only would use the draw bar for towing cars or trucks into town
I will be interested to see how the L4060 does with it. I have the L3560 and was wondering if it would fit on the Grand series of tractors.
There's a video of an L3560 with cab pulling the Rhino TS10. That video is actually how I happened across this one . The operator had no issues even in the thickest grass. The LX series is NOT designed for this type of equipment at all. It is a bridge between Kubota's BX and L series tractor. The L series, like the one you have, would be more suitable for this equipment.
I would also hear my late father saying don't pull off the 3pt hitch! I personally prefer Kubota for several reasons including the treadle peddle. That being said I agree they are a little too petite in the rear when it comes to the shaft and drawbar. Deere gives you a little more room to work with in the back.
Personally I think the mower is pushing it a bit depending on grass condition and how hilly it is. I think I would say the tractor is right on the bleeding edge of being able to do it.
Hey Tim!! I still think its too much tail for the little dog. Where I'm at in Iowa that mower would push the little Kubota all over the place.
I agree with you Tim 110% those lift arms and that bar was not meant to pull anything other than dragging something behind you such as a log on a bigger tractor that you didn't want digging in the ground as you pull the log or for traction. There is no way I would ever pull a implement with that bar.
Let's face it Tim John Deere is king. Thanks for satisfying those that want to see it good job. Kubota is designed for three point tools till you go bigger.
kubota lx uses drawbars for droup spreaders on towns sidewalks when plowing the town sidewalks off in the winter
Well done Tim!!!
To eliminate the float issue with the drawbar, get longer links to go between the lift arms and the lower 3 point arms. The longer links would put the maximum position of the 3pt. at the height you want to run your drawbar. There is no way for the drawbar to come up from that point, as it is already as high as possible.
Or, just use the 2038r.
Great points Tim on why this wouldn't be a great long term solution.
Did the wheels on the bush hog come with it or did you buy them I'm looking for some sort of like that for my bushhog 15 ft
Wise advice on the lift arm drawbar.
Thanks for going the extra mile to show that just because you can do something doesn't mean that you should do it
I just love the Rhino ts10 mower!
Me Too!!
that paddock looks great compared from the first time you mowed it
I cut really overgrown properties im curious if that mower would be harder on my 3038 vs the 5ft i have now