This would also be my question as well, because I also run a car audio system with larger wire and high output alternator. So, would you be able to bypass this sensor all together, or does all current have to be measured through the current sensor and sent to the PCM?
I have one of these on my 06 Escalade. My question is will this cause voltage to jump and fall. Mine goes 14.8 to 13.4 to 14.2 to 12.8.... two alternators replaced still doing it.
@@greenbk89 i replaced the battery current sensor with a oem ac delco one and nothing has changed. Once motor warms your it starts jumping again. I had to remove the electric fans cause when the cooling fan would kick on it would roll thru the brakes as idle raised. So went to a clutch fan and shroud. It stopped the high idle when fan kicked on but charging is still eratic. Ive completely removed and taped the harness, checked all grounds. It has to be in the ecu or bcm
@@SouthFLMudClub all ok that's a plus. Now check make shore ECM doesn't need to be reset a good way is pull of the negative terminal to battery first then take of positive then get end for end the negative jumper cable from one then connect to positive terminal then connect other end to negative terminal both negative is on the same wire end pull ECM fuse leave cables on for hour then hook terminals on 🔋 regular start with positive first start car let it idle for 5min codes should be erased or this Battery terminal sensor your problem or alternator or bad battery
I got a 05 Tahoe. I’ve changed the battery alternator and started it three times and still have a battery light on. I’ve been thinking that I could be the issue. I haven’t found videos on them. I wonder if this could be a possibility
The PWM.hpp file doesn't appear to be in the repo... I've tried a couple found via google search but I get compilation errors with them. Could you please point us to the correct PWM.hpp file?
I have an 06 HHR, the current sensor is p/n 10306471 GM says it uses a 10 volt reference, I cannot get a replacement, GM have none, after market all change up the p/n to the 13505369 which is a 5 volt reference! Any idea if this will work, or will it cause problems? Thanks....
Went to the wrecking yard today, I managed to find a couple of these sensors, I’d like to test them before I install one, do you have any pin out data for the 10306471 sensor? Thanks Al
@@callmezucc9318 thanks, I was hoping for some reference numbers, can they be checked with a multi meter? Ohms maybe?... if not I’ll install the one that looks like it’s been replaced! (really heavy tape job) not factory. I will probably have to wait till next year, when the temperature drops into the-25/-40, as that’s the only time the current one acts up. Battery saver active, and it becomes a brick in the driveway, I can’t even boost it when the battery saver is active. Anyway thanks again for the info, Regards Al
Have an 06 Sierra 1500 4.8. truck is overcharging. On average 14.5 - 15V. Unplugging the GCM causes the voltage to go down to 13.5v. Any suggestions for this concern? Also it is not the same current sensor you have. I have replaced it, and the alternator with no difference. I have also read that it needs to be programmed. The battery light does not come on, but the gauge does show over the 14V mark while running.
If there is no code then it should be operating normally. 15 volts is not uncommon. The alternator is also computer controlled by the PCM via duty cycle. You would need an oscilloscope to monitor the duty cycle.
Would it be possible to modify this current sensor so that a larger ground wire or multiple ground wires could fit through it? The application would be for a high powered audio system with 2 batteries and an isolator. Thanks
This would also be my question as well, because I also run a car audio system with larger wire and high output alternator. So, would you be able to bypass this sensor all together, or does all current have to be measured through the current sensor and sent to the PCM?
I’m guessing these current sensors(as they’re often called) are just mini ampclamps & therefore not directionally sensitive? - as in which way to point that long plastic wire supporting cradle(& ofcourse more importantly which way moving current flows through silver loop) & works same either way? - I ask because with all videos I can’t find 1 single camera shot of which way it’s supposed point(yS astoOnDng dumness)✋
They are directionally sensitive, + or - 60 amps. The proper direction would probably be specified in the software. Based on the OEM information the tape tab should point away from the battery on the negative terminal and towards its on the positive.
@@callmezucc9318 gr8, OnlE question lFt is.. what’s a ‘tape tab’ ?🤔 perhaps that means that 2”ish long plastic thing is made to have wires taped to it… hmnn👋
@@callmezucc9318 & btw I wired up the battery with 1 + & - wires reversed, I’m not usually quite that dumb ✋ O well I’ll C if I ruind the car soon enuf, at least battery was only 2/3ish, charged & key was off, & it was only for a few secNds. but yes, still pretty bad screw up😔. started it, didn’t blow up or have fire, but not running 2 gr8.. life’s often imperfect
@@callmezucc9318 NEwA I lookd up some stuff & got 1 or 2 more opinions that concurred with yours, & Ppl(often B/ing iDats ofcoOrse 😑) think that this current sensor actually measures current. current flows from + to - on a car battery(Yl electrons flow reverse). both your ideas which I found 2 agreements to, suggest what I’ll now call the tail tape tab point from - towards +, which ever side is recomended, while current is flowing from + to -. thus the word tail, ergo., the way the tape tab points, is opposite direction of current flow, 🤔 hmeahh.. hUd of thunk
This would also be my question as well, because I also run a car audio system with larger wire and high output alternator. So, would you be able to bypass this sensor all together, or does all current have to be measured through the current sensor and sent to the PCM?
my wires are to thick to go thru well only one can go through , what dod you do?
So, could I remove this from my 2018 Chevy Trax to stop limiting my charging? What issues could it cause?
What possible problems would having it very loose just hanging not taped at all ?
No problems, it is very resilient
What is the part number for the connector that attaches to the sensor?
I have one of these on my 06 Escalade. My question is will this cause voltage to jump and fall. Mine goes 14.8 to 13.4 to 14.2 to 12.8.... two alternators replaced still doing it.
MY car also. Did you find the problem?
@@greenbk89 i replaced the battery current sensor with a oem ac delco one and nothing has changed. Once motor warms your it starts jumping again. I had to remove the electric fans cause when the cooling fan would kick on it would roll thru the brakes as idle raised. So went to a clutch fan and shroud. It stopped the high idle when fan kicked on but charging is still eratic. Ive completely removed and taped the harness, checked all grounds. It has to be in the ecu or bcm
Yes or it could be a bad ground
@@cornell833 i have pulled and cleaned every ground. Im stumped.
@@SouthFLMudClub all ok that's a plus. Now check make shore ECM doesn't need to be reset a good way is pull of the negative terminal to battery first then take of positive then get end for end the negative jumper cable from one then connect to positive terminal then connect other end to negative terminal both negative is on the same wire end pull ECM fuse leave cables on for hour then hook terminals on 🔋 regular start with positive first start car let it idle for 5min codes should be erased or this Battery terminal sensor your problem or alternator or bad battery
Why scope measures frequency but when I hook a multimeter I can read voltage but no voltage with scope
If this goes bad wouldn't cause low voltage codes?
Yes
I got a 05 Tahoe. I’ve changed the battery alternator and started it three times and still have a battery light on. I’ve been thinking that I could be the issue. I haven’t found videos on them. I wonder if this could be a possibility
The PWM.hpp file doesn't appear to be in the repo... I've tried a couple found via google search but I get compilation errors with them. Could you please point us to the correct PWM.hpp file?
Yes no problem, totally forgot about the library. It's now included in the repo.
Here's the link too; github.com/xkam1x/Arduino-PWM-Reader
I have an 06 HHR, the current sensor is p/n 10306471 GM says it uses a 10 volt reference, I cannot get a replacement, GM have none, after market all change up the p/n to the 13505369 which is a 5 volt reference! Any idea if this will work, or will it cause problems? Thanks....
Yeah the 5v ones won't work with the 10v reference. Perhaps rock auto has one? Otherwise your best bet you be in a junkyard.
Went to the wrecking yard today, I managed to find a couple of these sensors, I’d like to test them before I install one, do you have any pin out data for the 10306471 sensor? Thanks Al
@@allanenders5525 looking at ProDemand. Pin A : ref. Pin B : Low ref (neg). Pin C : signal.
@@callmezucc9318 thanks, I was hoping for some reference numbers, can they be checked with a multi meter? Ohms maybe?... if not I’ll install the one that looks like it’s been replaced! (really heavy tape job) not factory. I will probably have to wait till next year, when the temperature drops into the-25/-40, as that’s the only time the current one acts up. Battery saver active, and it becomes a brick in the driveway, I can’t even boost it when the battery saver is active. Anyway thanks again for the info, Regards Al
@@allanenders5525 not likely, hall effect sensors cant really be check with a MM. Good luck though
Have an 06 Sierra 1500 4.8. truck is overcharging. On average 14.5 - 15V. Unplugging the GCM causes the voltage to go down to 13.5v. Any suggestions for this concern? Also it is not the same current sensor you have. I have replaced it, and the alternator with no difference. I have also read that it needs to be programmed. The battery light does not come on, but the gauge does show over the 14V mark while running.
If there is no code then it should be operating normally. 15 volts is not uncommon.
The alternator is also computer controlled by the PCM via duty cycle. You would need an oscilloscope to monitor the duty cycle.
Would it be possible to modify this current sensor so that a larger ground wire or multiple ground wires could fit through it? The application would be for a high powered audio system with 2 batteries and an isolator. Thanks
That'd be a good experiment, you would have to create your own inductive pickup loop and calibrate for that. Not sure if it would work though.
This would also be my question as well, because I also run a car audio system with larger wire and high output alternator. So, would you be able to bypass this sensor all together, or does all current have to be measured through the current sensor and sent to the PCM?
Hi, What side do you install these on a car would it be Positive or Negative side? Thanks
Negative
Not true it should be on positive@@josiahargueta9389
Say, does anyone know how to connect a current sensor with a Lipo battery?
So if this gose bad would it keep the car from charging?
It shouldn't, the vehicle would probably go into a default charging strategy.
Do Ford sensors max out at same aperage ..
No idea, would have to test them.
I’m guessing these current sensors(as they’re often called) are just mini ampclamps & therefore not directionally sensitive? - as in which way to point that long plastic wire supporting cradle(& ofcourse more importantly which way moving current flows through silver loop) & works same either way? - I ask because with all videos I can’t find 1 single camera shot of which way it’s supposed point(yS astoOnDng dumness)✋
They are directionally sensitive, + or - 60 amps. The proper direction would probably be specified in the software. Based on the OEM information the tape tab should point away from the battery on the negative terminal and towards its on the positive.
@@callmezucc9318 gr8, OnlE question lFt is.. what’s a ‘tape tab’ ?🤔 perhaps that means that 2”ish long plastic thing is made to have wires taped to it… hmnn👋
@@callmezucc9318
& btw I wired up the battery with 1 + & - wires reversed, I’m not usually quite that dumb ✋ O well I’ll C if I ruind the car soon enuf, at least battery was only 2/3ish, charged & key was off, & it was only for a few secNds. but yes, still pretty bad screw up😔. started it, didn’t blow up or have fire, but not running 2 gr8.. life’s often imperfect
@@callmezucc9318
NEwA I lookd up some stuff & got 1 or 2 more opinions that concurred with yours, & Ppl(often B/ing iDats ofcoOrse 😑) think that this current sensor actually measures current. current flows from + to - on a car battery(Yl electrons flow reverse). both your ideas which I found 2 agreements to, suggest what I’ll now call the tail tape tab point from - towards +, which ever side is recomended, while current is flowing from + to -. thus the word tail, ergo., the way the tape tab points, is opposite direction of current flow, 🤔 hmeahh.. hUd of thunk
my mechanics are stupid and wouldn't know any of this.
Wow, you have such nails! So handsome, reminds me of my mans ;)