When I was a young mechanic I was told if things don't seem right the wrong lights light up go looking for a bad ground. Make sure all grounds are tight and clean, then start looking for other fails.
A quick test is to put a test light on battery negative and touch the tip to the engine , a metal part , no paint . If it lights , bad ground . Take HEAVY jumper cables , one cable , connect one end to battery negative and the opposite end to : engine , then body and then chassis . Again , metal , no paint . If you have dim headlights they will become brighter IF the ground is now good with the cable . Do a visual of ALL grounds . Look for rust and corrosion . You may have to do voltage drop tests to confirm if you don't find visual proof of a problem .
@@nickdelalla980 We are checking for a bad ground . Voltage drop on the negative side . To test any voltage drop , current must be flowing or the circuit in operation . Start the car and operate the circuit to be tested . In this case if the car is running and a ground is bad , it will light the test light on the negative side , from battery negative to the block , body or chassis , depending where the issue is . If the grounds are good , almost no voltage , under half a volt , usually between .2 and .5 volts , would be present on the GROUND side . A higher amperage starter circuit would be around .5 volts on the ground side if operating properly WHEN CRANKING , on the negative side . Battery negative to starter ground . When the circuit operates properly , almost all the voltage is consumed on the positive side by the load device , starter , head light , wiper motor , etc. On the negative side there is almost no voltage left , between .2 and .5 volts as mentioned . The bad ground will allow voltage above that on the negative side . It WILL light a low amperage incandescent test light . Using HEAVY jumper cables over these grounds is a quick way to check if they may be the problem . A fully charged battery of 12.6 volts or higher , after removing the surface charge , is the staring point . The terminals must also be clean and tested . I would watch several videos on voltage drop from reliable sources , Scanner Danner , South Main Auto has several excellent ones , etc. There is a dual battery truck and he goes in detail where the loss is .
My gage cluster totally failed all at once, thought it was the cluster, but all was good, turned out to be a corroded engine ground on the fire wall. Re- soldiered , back to normal. Patience!
Thanks for the video. I have a question that may help me with my issue. I had to replace my battery on my Briggs and Stratton engine (generator). However, the terminals are a bit different and now my black battery cable is now about 1” short. Do you know if it’s ok to relocate the black cable from the bolt on the bottom of the engine to another bolt closer to the battery? Does it matter which bolt I attach the black cable to the block?
This might be horrible advice. If you’re diagnosing a vehicle use a different video and remember. Electrical issues can only be diagnosed with certain mechanics. Most don’t have a clue and fire off the parts cannon.
There's some truth in that. My last visit to my mechanic I pointed out my ground strap had broken in two. He looked at it and said that's no problem don't worry about it. A few weeks later I blew a cigar lighter fuse for no reason. I only charged my phone on it. Hmmmm.
I have a Lexus 2011 RX350. Trying to find a good ground in the trunk and all points even the body frame gives 3.1ohms. 😕 Is this normal? It's practically a new car with 60K miles and I am the original owner. I'm looking for a good ground for a small 150W Amp to run one 12" sub.
Hi there came back home all is well in the car park in the drive way when i start the car nothing no crank but battery strong i just replace the motor starter last year the ground strap in the engine looks new the only bad ground strap i see is in the tale pipe exhaust its all gone you think that will enough to contribute not to start the car?
My car would only go 35 mph after i atarted it one day. I parked it. Took it to a mechanic and they daid it was low voltage to transmission? Will this be expensive? Tgey referred me to a dealer of my rype of vehicle. Could use some input!!
My car makes a single “ Tic “ noise and does not turn over or anything and previously before that it was cranking slow but I just changed the starter a few months ago could it be bad grounding ?
Those braided, bare metal ground straps common on Fords are a piss poor piece of engineering. They are used in areas prone to moisture, and roar salt, and rain splashing on them, and corrode slowly over time, because they stay wet, for some time. Can't they use insulated wire, as they do for ALL other wires and cables? Its it too costly to sue better wiring, for grounding?
you can diagnose the problem by using a jumper cable between the negative terminal and the engine block. If starter now functions, you need to repair your ground strap connections.
@@LiamThomas-jn7zg you can leave the original on. you just need temporary connection between the negative ground battery post and the engine block to power the starter. I put a heavy copper wire between negative and a alternator mount bolt during COVID because supply chain issues made a new cable on back order... I think the engine runs OK after cranking because injectors and spark plugs and other stuff grounded on the block require minimal current, unlike the starter.
The best way is to crawl around the car and swap with new grounds. From the engine, chassis to frame and any thing else. Especially if there is corrosion.
When I was a young mechanic I was told if things don't seem right the wrong lights light up go looking for a bad ground. Make sure all grounds are tight and clean, then start looking for other fails.
Straight forward helpful 🙂
A quick test is to put a test light on battery negative and touch the tip to the engine , a metal part , no paint . If it lights , bad ground . Take HEAVY jumper cables , one cable , connect one end to battery negative and the opposite end to : engine , then body and then chassis . Again , metal , no paint . If you have dim headlights they will become brighter IF the ground is now good with the cable . Do a visual of ALL grounds . Look for rust and corrosion . You may have to do voltage drop tests to confirm if you don't find visual proof of a problem .
This comment was better than the Video! Thanks!
Connect to test light to the positive.
@@nickdelalla980 We are checking for a bad ground . Voltage drop on the negative side . To test any voltage drop , current must be flowing or the circuit in operation . Start the car and operate the circuit to be tested . In this case if the car is running and a ground is bad , it will light the test light on the negative side , from battery negative to the block , body or chassis , depending where the issue is . If the grounds are good , almost no voltage , under half a volt , usually between .2 and .5 volts , would be present on the GROUND side . A higher amperage starter circuit would be around .5 volts on the ground side if operating properly WHEN CRANKING , on the negative side . Battery negative to starter ground . When the circuit operates properly , almost all the voltage is consumed on the positive side by the load device , starter , head light , wiper motor , etc. On the negative side there is almost no voltage left , between .2 and .5 volts as mentioned . The bad ground will allow voltage above that on the negative side . It WILL light a low amperage incandescent test light . Using HEAVY jumper cables over these grounds is a quick way to check if they may be the problem . A fully charged battery of 12.6 volts or higher , after removing the surface charge , is the staring point . The terminals must also be clean and tested . I would watch several videos on voltage drop from reliable sources , Scanner Danner , South Main Auto has several excellent ones , etc. There is a dual battery truck and he goes in detail where the loss is .
Sounds like 1000 ways to die comment
I get 1 wire with bulb i Put 1 wire to negative cable and another to bateri negative also i have bulb light it can be bad ground ??
My gage cluster totally failed all at once, thought it was the cluster, but all was good, turned out to be a corroded engine ground on the fire wall. Re- soldiered , back to normal. Patience!
Great information.
I know of at least two prior car issues that were fixed with a ground cleaning.
Thanks for the video. I have a question that may help me with my issue. I had to replace my battery on my Briggs and Stratton engine (generator). However, the terminals are a bit different and now my black battery cable is now about 1” short. Do you know if it’s ok to relocate the black cable from the bolt on the bottom of the engine to another bolt closer to the battery? Does it matter which bolt I attach the black cable to the block?
This might be horrible advice. If you’re diagnosing a vehicle use a different video and remember. Electrical issues can only be diagnosed with certain mechanics. Most don’t have a clue and fire off the parts cannon.
There's some truth in that. My last visit to my mechanic I pointed out my ground strap had broken in two. He looked at it and said that's no problem don't worry about it. A few weeks later I blew a cigar lighter fuse for no reason. I only charged my phone on it. Hmmmm.
I have a Lexus 2011 RX350. Trying to find a good ground in the trunk and all points even the body frame gives 3.1ohms. 😕
Is this normal? It's practically a new car with 60K miles and I am the original owner.
I'm looking for a good ground for a small 150W Amp to run one 12" sub.
Hi there came back home all is well in the car park in the drive way when i start the car nothing no crank but battery strong i just replace the motor starter last year the ground strap in the engine looks new the only bad ground strap i see is in the tale pipe exhaust its all gone you think that will enough to contribute not to start the car?
My car would only go 35 mph after i atarted it one day. I parked it. Took it to a mechanic and they daid it was low voltage to transmission? Will this be expensive? Tgey referred me to a dealer of my rype of vehicle. Could use some input!!
Do you need to disconnect the battery to replace the cable
Duh
No. The battery negative terminal and any metal part of the chassis or engine should be the same point electrically.
Probably don’t have to but I’m disconnecting mine if it helps ya any
What will happen if we change the strap without disconnecting the battery
@@elieafram5303 you take a chance of touching something energized and shorting everything out
My car makes a single “ Tic “ noise and does not turn over or anything and previously before that it was cranking slow but I just changed the starter a few months ago could it be bad grounding ?
Probably a bad battery... what year is the car?
@@windytokes 2013 Gran Cherokee Laredo 3.6 Liter Base Model
@@OfficialLeeHancho check all your grounds and positive conections and if tht dosent solve it most likley a battery
Can a bad ground cause window to not work?
If the buttons got wet they might of corroded contact points
Those braided, bare metal ground straps common on Fords are a piss poor piece of engineering. They are used in areas prone to moisture, and roar salt, and rain splashing on them, and corrode slowly over time, because they stay wet, for some time. Can't they use insulated wire, as they do for ALL other wires and cables? Its it too costly to sue better wiring, for grounding?
The directions to test ground cable at the end are unclear
Can this cause my car not to start?
Yep
you can diagnose the problem by using a jumper cable between the negative terminal and the engine block. If starter now functions, you need to repair your ground strap connections.
@@peetky8645
Do you do this whilst original cable is still connected or do you take the black cable off the battery?
@@LiamThomas-jn7zg you can leave the original on. you just need temporary connection between the negative ground battery post and the engine block to power the starter. I put a heavy copper wire between negative and a alternator mount bolt during COVID because supply chain issues made a new cable on back order...
I think the engine runs OK after cranking because injectors and spark plugs and other stuff grounded on the block require minimal current, unlike the starter.
@@peetky8645
Understood ! Thankyou
Denotes a POORLY charged battery. Check alternator output. comment please
Sounds like majority of fixing to do
I had 11 codes pop up lol
not helpful
The best way is to crawl around the car and swap with new grounds. From the engine, chassis to frame and any thing else. Especially if there is corrosion.
Electric window won’t work.
Windows wouldn’t work
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