You young mechanics of your generation never cease to amaze me with your diagnosic abilities. It warms my heart to see you all plying your trade. As an older mechanic (81) I just love watching you at work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and techniques with us "old goats".
My battery saver light comes on as well. I have a 2013 Impala. I just had a new alternator put on about a year and a half ago so I was confused as to why this was happening. Thanks for the info
volvo09 the whole repair looked like the three stooges did it maybe with the assistance of Edward Scissorhands or something. They may have actually done a little better though. It's the previous shop that caused the issue. It's not necessarily anything wrong though, the previous repair just threw the computer off a little bit, and it applied this mode thinking that the battery isn't getting charged correctly. Honestly, if I paid a lot of money for that battery terminal repair, I'd be a little pissed. Maybe me using the dealer is a good thing, I'm pretty satisfied with them anyway. I know if I needed my battery terminals replaced, they'd do it right, and I'd have no further issues.
Kevin Eaton I agree. I believe that whoever you have touch your car in a mechanical way has just as much, if not more to say about vehicle quality experience, than the vehicle itself. The way I look at, even if I had a car that was a couple years old, and maybe even out of warranty I'd still probably go to the dealership. For the most part, they'd have parts in specification, and you wouldn't get work that looked like that. I'm sure there's exceptions though. Some customers think they're saving money, then they end up spending more in the long run, like this Impala owner. Some of these other places other than the dealer do some weird stuff to cars. Sometimes parts don't match up correctly or the work is bad. Not all places or aftermarket parts are bad though. There's some dealers for brands that I wouldn't let touch my vehicle, but mine is pretty good, so I stick with them, and don't have any issues. If they took that to a GM dealer or maybe even some other place, they'd probably rip those wires right out of there and fix it correctly, mine definitely would advise it in this case. If they didn't see it to be the issue, my dealer would of course leave it alone. The sensor glitch is fixed, but it's almost worth getting that wire work redone.
Will tell you a little , true , story about one of our local dealers . We have a 2015 Chevy Sonic . The A/C quit working . Within the bumper to bumper warranty . Wife took it to the dealer & dropped it off . They called , it was ready , bad compressor or compressor clutch . Not sure . They said the system was over charged . I told them ; 1 - I had not messed with it . 2- The only people that have had the hood open , besides me ( to check fluids ) was them . It came with 4 free oil changes & they had been doing that + free tire rotation ) . 3 - If it was over charged , it had to be that way from the factory , since I had not messed with it ( I can & have an EPA card for motor vehicle A/C ) . 4 - If it was over charged , the A/C would never have worked correctly , A/C comes down to temperatures & pressures . Over charge will mess up the pressures which will mess up the temperatures . 5 - It is under warranty . Warranty is one of the reasons I bought a new car in the first place . 6 - I am not going to pay a cent for a warranty repair . 7 - I think the next position was they were going to ask me to pay 1/2 the price of the compressor . They eventually said they would cover the entire repair , out of " the goodness of their heart " . Now , tell me , does that sound like a bunch of crooks ? Normally , I never go to a dealer for repairs . I go to a dealer for parts I can get / find no where else . Now , where have I been incorrect or unfair ? Thanks , :-) Best wishes , Wyr God bless
I recently had a high output alternator installed on my 2017 Chevy Silverado and got the same notification. After looking into what that system notification meant, it lead me to the battery current sensor. I looked at mine, which is on the negative cable, and my ground from the high output alternator wasn't inside that sensor ring. I put the high output alternator ground through the sensor and no more problems. Thank you for your video and continue the good work and improve yourself in your craft sir.
Nice diagnosis & repair Ivan. I got one in that a shop had changed out the cable assy and didn't swap the current sensor over and then sent it out with all the DTCs and DIC lit up...they need to stick to lube, oil & filter like their sign reads.
Thank you very much for your video. You’re very talented. I bought a brand new Chevy 2024 blazer premier and I called the dealership after about a day or two days of having it and I noticed that the voltage gauge was going between 12 and 14 and 15 and back down to 12 and I found your video and did some things on the Internet. I called the dealership and they said the exact same thing you’re showing and I didn’t believe them well now I know amazing how things change you can’t even have a simple battery in an alternator anymore.
09 Chevy Impala lt 3.5l. I had this issue plus 10. I replaced alternator, battery, starter, and also wires. Make sure your connection at the starter are correct. Two positive cables and one ground cable in alternator. Make sure ground are good.
Big flash = not good. -ve cable should have been off Ivan. A flash like that can kill modules. Also description said connected to -ve, assume it meant one wire connected to gnd and the loop around +ve? Great short video 👍
Thank you friend I have a 2005 Grand Prix sane issue battery saver light and I noticed my sensor is only around the negative side I will fix it I let ya know how it goes as I work all night and sleep till 11 ami was fixing to get a new alt till I seen your video thanks again from J D
I can't believe a shop threw those "emergency clamps" on the battery cables. Those things are nothing but trouble here in the Northeast! A little salt gets in, and all kinds of electrical gremlins start popping up. I HATE those things! Whenever someone brings a car to me with those on it, I'll advise them what they're in for, and 9 times out of 10, they'll have me change them. I'll either solder on a new terminal, or crimp on a copper lug for my studded cable ends, then heat shrink some Ancor marine grade battery cable tubing around the crimp, or solder point. Haven't had an cable-related issue since. Ridiculous seeing CURRENT sensors on vehicles now! These things are getting worse and worse. Wonder what we'll be in for when all the 2017's are 10 years old? YIKES!
There are competent electricians and there are mechanics who don't understand that the electrical circuits of a vehicle are more complex and require more expertice to work on than the mechanical ones, and that every electrical connection is important. -Battery field terminations aren't a problem if the ends of the cable tinned put into compression sleeves with lugs and the correct style of battery terminal is used. There's' no reason for there ever to be exposed copper conductors in ANY electrical circuit exposed to the elements. RTV and shrink tubing are cheap and have long shelf lives. Spray on/brush on insulation is more expensive but does a good job if used properly. -You can make reliable field battery connections every time if you use the right kinds of parts. They are not expensive. if you don't have the tools and parts to do electrical repair work correctly, your work should be identified as an emergency repair, and the customer directed to go to a qualified shop ASAP.
See. This is what happens when people take their cars to these little Joe shops around the corner that patches parts and dont know what they doing. Good work.
This doesn't only happen in cars! Years ago I was assigned to check into a fault on an APU generator on a Lockheed 1011. This is in a compartment under the tail fin. The airplane had been at two other maintenance bases to deal with the generator instantly shutting down from neutral fault after it had been replaced; the fault could not be located. They were planning to re&re the APU generator. I took a quick look first and found someone had labeled the four generator cables with tape when the generator had been switched out - T0 (neutral), T1, T2, T3 (3 phases). Upon closer inspection, there are markings stamped right into the cables from the factory. The mistake was the T0 cable had been labeled T1 and T1 cable labeled T0. The cables pass through loops for current sensing. The generator controller was now seeing high current on the neutral (which should have none), and no current on the T1 phase, and would therefore shut down assuming a serious fault. The T0 and T1 cables were re-routed through the correct current sensing loops, and the incorrect hand-written labels which were believed by two other maintenance bases removed. All was working fine, and this saved needless replacement of a perfectly good generator.
I'm 70% sure that battery current sensor wraps around the negative cable from the battery before it splits - whereas in this situation it seems to be 'fixed' when wrapped around the positive cables.
Well color me silly....I looked up the OE parts diagram. While my applications (2007-13ish GM/Chevy SUV's) dictate the sensor be wrapped around the negative cable from the battery before it splits to varying places, it appears the Impala dictates the sensor be wrapped/installed around the positive, before it splits. Doing so before any 'splits' is necessary to insure the sensor measures the total draw, not just a portion such as in the case of a single wire in a dual-wire setup as shown by Ivan the Terrific. Anyway - well done I.T.
Thanks for this ! many people get charged thousands of dollars and this inexpensive fix would be all that's necessary , too bad about all the complainers , maybe they have monetizing motives...
I have same problem 2013 Cadillac ATS 3.6 AWD had battery tested load and it was good Alternator was charging system before just fine .checked all standard fuses good .now my question is would it be a PCM/BCM Relay that blown not allowing alternator to charge it one of those smart charging systems . Any help would be greatly appreciated
Turning the sensor would around have the same effect. Most modern vehicles have a battery monitor built into the negative terminal of the battery or post rather than an inductive ring. Great video as always Ivan.
If you turn the sensor around and leave it on the same cable it would stop the alternator from charging the battery b/c it would show 60-70 amps going to the battery but it would also set a B1566 66 for it being backwards. It has to be properly oriented around both positive cables for that make/model and yes it could also be installed on the negative cable reversed and the BCM wouldn't know the difference.
This warning also comes up when the Alternator fails, it comes on Before the battery light by about 20 minutes give or take. It will also show up when the battery current sensor Fails.
At 1:55 the manual states that the sensor belongs around the negative lead, but at 4:37 it's found on one of the positive leads, and the problem is corrected by placing the sensor around both positive leads. Looking for clarity as my son's 2015 Regal has been in the shop for two weeks with this problem.
Ivan, really enjoy your videos, along with Eric O. I have a similar year GM with the same smart charging system. The current sensor should be on the negative cable, so the system can monitor all current in the system. It appears the sensor was installed in reverse direction that is why you got a negative current reading, when in fact the battery had a net gain. My Mitchell online service diagrams confirms this.
I'm having this problem with my 2007 Buick Lucerne I have changed the battery and alternator checked this seems to be good but still having the same problem any suggestions
@@tolbertkraig I went through 2 walmart Everstart batteries in 6 months, never had problems before and lasted for years, checked charging, voltage drop, parasitic draw, current sensor, all was ok, dealer also. Changed to AC Delco OEM battery and no more problems.
Good video but isn't it suppose to go around pos and neg cable ? I have an 09 ss and I get that message all the time and it's horseshit but then again mine is disconnected as it was when I bought the car so I may hook it up and go from there , ,thanks for the helpful video
Can u explain why all the sudden my 5.3 is charging at 15.9 and dropping to 13.9 almost like it would in freezing temps ,I live in fla it’s 80 degrees out right now and has been
I almost spoke to soon. Very helpful. But I have connected a 2 gauge wire to an amp in trunk that does not go through that sensor. Should I rout the wire through the sensor?
I would replace the battery cables or use the battery cable ends that you can soder on just a better connections and eliminate problems and come backs down the road how many times these bolt on cable ends cause problems especially on the late model cars been there done it you know better Ivan good video learned something new take care Joe
So, some are around the negative and some are around the positive. How do you know which it's supposed to be around? I just replaced my sensor and I'm STILL getting that warning. Mines on the positive a cable and the cable to the fuse box. Everything checks out good. Battery, alternator, starter. I'm about to give up. Done spent 1300 in the shop and no luck.
Nice vid as usual...BTW, I've come across a couple of newer honda accords that have a similar sensor at the battery post/terminal and when it goes bad, it fries the battery, new or old....just a little fyi...
Replaced battery cables due to advance auto parts claiming my battery was good even though it wasn't, So I ended up with the same battery charging error afterwards, but After replacing the starter , I still had the error, so I eventually just got a new battery, and the electrical gremlins went away.
I have a 2008 Chevy equinox and for some reason the battery drains within a day or two. I checked all fuses and none of them are blown nor do I get a amp drop when removing fuses one by one. I checked the alternator at two local AutoZones and the alternator came out good. What do you think the problem could be? Also just finished watching a video where some guy was having the same issues as me with the same vehicle and he replaced the red wire that goes connected to the battery and it worked for him.
It's not sad when a mechanic cannot remember how parts were connected before he started to work on ANY machine. It's unprofessional. There's no excuse for not taking a picture of something that's unfamiliar so you can tell if you put it back together the way it was before. Pictures won't help if someone worked on it previously and put it together wrong, but if they did, and there are new problems with new symptoms, that should make the next person who works on it question the previous work.
alot of new tech is about better fuel economy, and getting more power out of smaller engines. this smart battery system is made to cut the charging system back to save fuel during certain loads and conditions. the owners manual tells little bit about what it does. I have a 2005 grand prix gxp with the 5.3l chevy v8. it has this same system, it also has displacement on demand which turns off 4cylinders under light load. the government has new standards for trucks fuel economy coming soon, this is why we have ecoboost engines in ford trucks now. dodge and chevy are working on new 6cylinder engines for there trucks also.
So, the car is doing what it's supposed to do, on a computer algorithmic perspective. It seems the other shop didn't fully know what they were doing, or isn't familiar working on this, and caused the system to go into this safety mode, causing the problem. I've always wondered what aftermarket parts, and in this case other shops that don't know the cars contributes to other issues. It seems like a pretty high statistic. So, far I've only let my GM dealer work on my cars, and I don't have really any issues with them. When I worked at Toyota, they had to correct problems from tire chain shops all the time.
Great video! I have a 2007 Buick Lucerne that has the battery under the back seat. Doesn't appear to have a sensor mounted like the under hood battery you feature. Can someone tell me where the current sensor in this Lucerne? I have already had the battery replaced multiple times and battery continues to go dead quickly. Replaced alternator also. Continue to get the "battery saver active" code.
Hello my names mark,awsome video bro,I have a question for u if you can help me, I have 2016 Cherokee trailhawk 3.2 v6 I too have battery savor mode on ,I put a big sound stream so I know it has to be proxy alignment,the part I get confused,this jeep looks as if it has starter solenoid and stupid me befor I tore everything down I should of took pic of how wires we’re connected,the fuse box has 5 bolts that act as positive bud bar oh I for got to mention I also did the big 3 upgread, but any how I’m stuck at not know where alt pos wire gos dnd battery positive gos if you can please help me I’d appreciate it,by the way I’m nooooooo Macanic what so ever,thanks for your time
Got the check charging system awhile back that would go on and off then recently the battery saver light on my 2009 Impala, ordered a new sensor but see the two wires going to positive terminal are tacked in, so I guess I would have to cut the wires in order to install the new sensor.... and get a new terminal /lug.... I've not found any other videos that show what anyone did if the wires were tacked / welded to the terminal...... battery , Alt and starter all fairly new and recently checked and showed good.........
Jorge Carbajal Muñoz That is what he read on Alldata, and you cannot tighten that aftermarket terminal enough with a nut driver either. Probably should replace the battery cables while they still sell them and install proper battery. After 10 years, GM doesn't care if you get any new parts or not. But this is quick money mobile mechanics 😬
Ivan...Yes it's supposed to be on the positive just like you had it. When the OEM positive terminal is installed the only way to change the sensor is to remove the cable assy which is positive & negative cables, remove all the zipties and convoluted tubing, squeeze the + & - cables together at base and slide the sensor off & new back on OR replace the battery terminal end with a universal terminal and cut the OEM terminal off, slide off & on the current sensor, connect your cables to the universal terminal and your done in a fraction of the time. I use Mitchell Pro Demand & their illustrations and data are correct at least for this application so don't know why Alldata shows negative. When in the Battery Saver mode (KOEO) it removes the battery loads and if it's installed backwards will/should set a B1516 66 . I got one in that a shop had changed out the cable assy and didn't swap the current sensor over and then sent it out with all the DTCs and DIC lit up...they need to stick to lube, oil & filter like their sign reads.
The other shop did some hack job. Crappy replacement terminals, loose battery in tray, and of course incorrectly places sensor. Is that even the right battery for this application? (Side terminal or top terminal)
All data said the sensor should be on the negative cable. Reguardless as long as the sensor is placed the right way on either cable it shouldn't matter right?
MY siter has same issue with her 2008 chevy impala but after battery saver come on it start shutting down first the ac then the dash lights come on battery abs do u think it a alternator issue take it to shope soon as i can get to her in T.N
I have an 08 chevy uplander that says charging system failure and battery saver active and then it just died and will turn over but won’t start. Any thoughts?
Sounds like a bit of a superfluous system to me. I'm sure the ECM can do fine with reading the battery voltage which gives an approximate state of charge. The ECM should be programmed with the approximate load that systems draw depending on what is on and off which obviously the ECM knows what the approximate draw should be. It knows and controls the output of the alternator. A drop in system voltage could suffice to tell it to turn off the accessories. Seems like a money making/planned obsolescence/failure mode to me.
I've experienced the same problem, and followed all the directions. The sign never comes on the dash anymore but now my car is dying faster than before the fix. I even replaced the positive terminal. Any idea where I went wrong
I think the one on our little Chevy Sonic is on the negative cable . This would have avoided trying to run both large positive cable through the sensor . I am guessing , if the sensor is installed with the cable running through it in the reverse direction , it would read incorrectly / reversed ? Thanks , :-) Wyr God bless
I just bought a new touch screen radio I connected it and then the battery charging system came on and the battery symbol was on what does that mean it only came on when I was connecting the radio
This light came on my 2010 Camaro. Not only did the "batter Saver Mode" come on but when I turned it off at the gas station it wouldn't turn back on again. I got it jumped and it still died. The car was literally shutting off! I got it jumped again and it died and shut down. My brother had to come find me and put a battery jump pack on the battery to get home. Then my dad put a temporary new battery in it. When I tied to go get something to eat the BSM light came back on so I went home out of fear that it would shut down on me again! It drives like it's flickering. It can't be just a sensor problem. Is it the fuse box? The Alternator? The battery? The wires? Some kind of belt? What can it be!?
George Louis Damn i was hoping it was a sensor or something because it was charging after i had the battery recharged but it died again today. Sucks, but i guess it's the problem after all.
One of these days that wedding band is either going to rip or electrically burn your finger off. It's just a matter of time. I've seen that happen twice in my career. Get rid of it when you're working.
what a stupendous fsckup someone did :)) did you look at alternator duty cycle, I wonder if it kept it near 100% and has been boiling the battery. then again, they probably factor in voltage or regulate more from it. now I'm curious ^_^
I had the same problem, followed each step to fix it. And immediately after my car is turning over but not starting. Can anybody tell me what may be going wrong or what i may have done. Im not a professional. And i made sure all connections are tight already
Looks like the previous shop did not have the correct battery with GM-style side mount connections. To sell the customer a generic top post battery, they hacked off the factory sealed ring terminals from the cables and installed cheap aftermarket terminals that will promote future corrosion at the cable ends. And they messed up the battery sensor as an extra bonus!
I stand corrected. My 1997 Chevy Lumina and 2005 Malibu, both had side battery connections, and I thought that practice continued - bad assumption on my part. Checking an online parts catalog, it shows an old fashioned top post connector battery cable, as you stated.
I’m having the same problem in my 2006 Chevrolet uplander and I changed the battery and got the alternator checked but I’m still having this problem? Can you tell me what else could be the problem? Please and thank you.
Chances you have a bad electrical component or system that draining your battery. You need to find a mechanic that familiar with your car's electrical system, has the service manuals for your car and can do an parasitic electrical drain test on your car. Basically this involves determining which circuit in your cars electrical system is causing the problem.
by the wA that current sensor IS also an amp clamp(small Smurf sized)- & I beleive the direction it’s ‘pointing’ is the opposite direction of its ‘tail’(tape tab), which I beleive in this case(tail pointing towards +) means its pointing & measuring current from + to -(the other direction is electrons rather then magnetic? current)✋ I just wish some1 knew how to reset/calibrate these hobgoblNs😒
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You young mechanics of your generation never cease to amaze me with your diagnosic abilities. It warms my heart to see you all plying your trade. As an older mechanic (81) I just love watching you at work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and techniques with us "old goats".
Well we kinda have too because vehicles get more advanced. We really don't have a choice. As least the good ones like me
My battery saver light comes on as well. I have a 2013 Impala. I just had a new alternator put on about a year and a half ago so I was confused as to why this was happening. Thanks for the info
That's funny because on my 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix it's on the negative battery cable. Good video & fix
Looks like someone really takes care of that Impala. Kudos to them for taking care of their car. Great job Ivan
yeah, that looks like a really nice car! Those crappy replacement clamps looked out of place on that clean car.
volvo09 the whole repair looked like the three stooges did it maybe with the assistance of Edward Scissorhands or something. They may have actually done a little better though. It's the previous shop that caused the issue. It's not necessarily anything wrong though, the previous repair just threw the computer off a little bit, and it applied this mode thinking that the battery isn't getting charged correctly. Honestly, if I paid a lot of money for that battery terminal repair, I'd be a little pissed. Maybe me using the dealer is a good thing, I'm pretty satisfied with them anyway. I know if I needed my battery terminals replaced, they'd do it right, and I'd have no further issues.
+laxbeach23 if i was the guy who had this fixed I'd be taking Ivan's bill and make them pay it!
Kevin Eaton I agree. I believe that whoever you have touch your car in a mechanical way has just as much, if not more to say about vehicle quality experience, than the vehicle itself. The way I look at, even if I had a car that was a couple years old, and maybe even out of warranty I'd still probably go to the dealership. For the most part, they'd have parts in specification, and you wouldn't get work that looked like that. I'm sure there's exceptions though. Some customers think they're saving money, then they end up spending more in the long run, like this Impala owner. Some of these other places other than the dealer do some weird stuff to cars. Sometimes parts don't match up correctly or the work is bad. Not all places or aftermarket parts are bad though. There's some dealers for brands that I wouldn't let touch my vehicle, but mine is pretty good, so I stick with them, and don't have any issues. If they took that to a GM dealer or maybe even some other place, they'd probably rip those wires right out of there and fix it correctly, mine definitely would advise it in this case. If they didn't see it to be the issue, my dealer would of course leave it alone. The sensor glitch is fixed, but it's almost worth getting that wire work redone.
Will tell you a little , true , story about one of our local dealers .
We have a 2015 Chevy Sonic . The A/C quit working . Within the bumper to bumper warranty .
Wife took it to the dealer & dropped it off . They called , it was ready , bad compressor or compressor clutch . Not sure .
They said the system was over charged . I told them ;
1 - I had not messed with it .
2- The only people that have had the hood open , besides me ( to check fluids ) was them . It came with 4 free oil changes & they had been doing that + free tire rotation ) .
3 - If it was over charged , it had to be that way from the factory , since I had not messed with it ( I can & have an EPA card for motor vehicle A/C ) .
4 - If it was over charged , the A/C would never have worked correctly , A/C comes down to temperatures & pressures . Over charge will mess up the pressures which will mess up the temperatures .
5 - It is under warranty . Warranty is one of the reasons I bought a new car in the first place .
6 - I am not going to pay a cent for a warranty repair .
7 - I think the next position was they were going to ask me to pay 1/2 the price of the compressor . They eventually said they would cover the entire repair , out of " the goodness of their heart " .
Now , tell me , does that sound like a bunch of crooks ?
Normally , I never go to a dealer for repairs . I go to a dealer for parts I can get / find no where else .
Now , where have I been incorrect or unfair ?
Thanks , :-)
Best wishes ,
Wyr
God bless
I recently had a high output alternator installed on my 2017 Chevy Silverado and got the same notification. After looking into what that system notification meant, it lead me to the battery current sensor. I looked at mine, which is on the negative cable, and my ground from the high output alternator wasn't inside that sensor ring. I put the high output alternator ground through the sensor and no more problems. Thank you for your video and continue the good work and improve yourself in your craft sir.
Quick fixes are nice. No 💰 needed is always a plus in everyone's book is say. Who would of known cars have a function like that
Nice diagnosis & repair Ivan. I got one in that a shop had changed out the cable assy and didn't swap the current sensor over and then sent it out with all the DTCs and DIC lit up...they need to stick to lube, oil & filter like their sign reads.
Haywards Automotive thumbs . 👍👍👍👏👏👏💯😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. SAY LESS❤️
Another great video showing how understanding theory and using common sense makes it appear easy to trouble shoot problems. Thanks!
Thank you so much for posting ! I was ready to let my car go really cheap , now I get what I'm asking for it
Thank you very much for your video. You’re very talented. I bought a brand new Chevy 2024 blazer premier and I called the dealership after about a day or two days of having it and I noticed that the voltage gauge was going between 12 and 14 and 15 and back down to 12 and I found your video and did some things on the Internet. I called the dealership and they said the exact same thing you’re showing and I didn’t believe them well now I know amazing how things change you can’t even have a simple battery in an alternator anymore.
09 Chevy Impala lt 3.5l. I had this issue plus 10. I replaced alternator, battery, starter, and also wires. Make sure your connection at the starter are correct. Two positive cables and one ground cable in alternator. Make sure ground are good.
I have a 2009 impala and its draining my battery i changed the alternator and it keeps draining it.Your problem was the wires on the starter?
Big flash = not good. -ve cable should have been off Ivan. A flash like that can kill modules. Also description said connected to -ve, assume it meant one wire connected to gnd and the loop around +ve? Great short video 👍
Loved how objective the diagnosing is
Thank you friend I have a 2005 Grand Prix sane issue battery saver light and I noticed my sensor is only around the negative side I will fix it I let ya know how it goes as I work all night and sleep till 11 ami was fixing to get a new alt till I seen your video thanks again from J D
I can't believe a shop threw those "emergency clamps" on the battery cables. Those things are nothing but trouble here in the Northeast! A little salt gets in, and all kinds of electrical gremlins start popping up. I HATE those things!
Whenever someone brings a car to me with those on it, I'll advise them what they're in for, and 9 times out of 10, they'll have me change them. I'll either solder on a new terminal, or crimp on a copper lug for my studded cable ends, then heat shrink some Ancor marine grade battery cable tubing around the crimp, or solder point. Haven't had an cable-related issue since.
Ridiculous seeing CURRENT sensors on vehicles now! These things are getting worse and worse. Wonder what we'll be in for when all the 2017's are 10 years old? YIKES!
There are competent electricians and there are mechanics who don't understand that the electrical circuits of a vehicle are more complex and require more expertice to work on than the mechanical ones, and that every electrical connection is important.
-Battery field terminations aren't a problem if the ends of the cable tinned put into compression sleeves with lugs and the correct style of battery terminal is used. There's' no reason for there ever to be exposed copper conductors in ANY electrical circuit exposed to the elements. RTV and shrink tubing are cheap and have long shelf lives. Spray on/brush on insulation is more expensive but does a good job if used properly.
-You can make reliable field battery connections every time if you use the right kinds of parts. They are not expensive. if you don't have the tools and parts to do electrical repair work correctly, your work should be identified as an emergency repair, and the customer directed to go to a qualified shop ASAP.
Ok
Cool vid Ivan! Nice find and fix!
Thanks, Eric! No parts required...just a bit of brain work haha
Niiice, Ivan! Showing once again how important it is to know your fundamentals!
This man is a gift from the GODS!
Awesome! I was not searching for this information but am glad I watched and learned. I didn't know about this system in my car
See. This is what happens when people take their cars to these little Joe shops around the corner that patches parts and dont know what they doing. Good work.
This doesn't only happen in cars! Years ago I was assigned to check into a fault on an APU generator on a Lockheed 1011. This is in a compartment under the tail fin. The airplane had been at two other maintenance bases to deal with the generator instantly shutting down from neutral fault after it had been replaced; the fault could not be located. They were planning to re&re the APU generator. I took a quick look first and found someone had labeled the four generator cables with tape when the generator had been switched out - T0 (neutral), T1, T2, T3 (3 phases). Upon closer inspection, there are markings stamped right into the cables from the factory. The mistake was the T0 cable had been labeled T1 and T1 cable labeled T0. The cables pass through loops for current sensing. The generator controller was now seeing high current on the neutral (which should have none), and no current on the T1 phase, and would therefore shut down assuming a serious fault. The T0 and T1 cables were re-routed through the correct current sensing loops, and the incorrect hand-written labels which were believed by two other maintenance bases removed. All was working fine, and this saved needless replacement of a perfectly good generator.
Great story
Got my positive cable replaced today and now all of a sudden I have this message. Never got it before. I have a 07 impala as well
Excellent, I followed the instructions and it worked. Thanks.
I'm 70% sure that battery current sensor wraps around the negative cable from the battery before it splits - whereas in this situation it seems to be 'fixed' when wrapped around the positive cables.
Well color me silly....I looked up the OE parts diagram. While my applications (2007-13ish GM/Chevy SUV's) dictate the sensor be wrapped around the negative cable from the battery before it splits to varying places, it appears the Impala dictates the sensor be wrapped/installed around the positive, before it splits. Doing so before any 'splits' is necessary to insure the sensor measures the total draw, not just a portion such as in the case of a single wire in a dual-wire setup as shown by Ivan the Terrific. Anyway - well done I.T.
@@CedarPass It can be wrapped around either as long as the orientation of tape tab is correct
Thanks for this !
many people get charged thousands of dollars and this inexpensive fix would be all that's necessary , too bad about all the complainers , maybe they have monetizing motives...
Спасибо Вам, Иван. До сих пор имел смутное представление о работе этой системы зарядки.
I have same problem 2013 Cadillac ATS 3.6 AWD had battery tested load and it was good Alternator was charging system before just fine .checked all standard fuses good .now my question is would it be a PCM/BCM Relay that blown not allowing alternator to charge it one of those smart charging systems . Any help would be greatly appreciated
Turning the sensor would around have the same effect.
Most modern vehicles have a battery monitor built into the negative terminal of the battery or post rather than an inductive ring.
Great video as always Ivan.
If you turn the sensor around and leave it on the same cable it would stop the alternator from charging the battery b/c it would show 60-70 amps going to the battery but it would also set a B1566 66 for it being backwards. It has to be properly oriented around both positive cables for that make/model and yes it could also be installed on the negative cable reversed and the BCM wouldn't know the difference.
Hayward's Automotive That's what fascinating about the automotive industry you learn something new everyday.
Appreciate your input.
Seems like more trouble than it's worth. great video Ivan
This warning also comes up when the Alternator fails, it comes on Before the battery light by about 20 minutes give or take. It will also show up when the battery current sensor Fails.
Great video. Brain cannon, not parts cannon. Good job!!!
At 1:55 the manual states that the sensor belongs around the negative lead, but at 4:37 it's found on one of the positive leads, and the problem is corrected by placing the sensor around both positive leads.
Looking for clarity as my son's 2015 Regal has been in the shop for two weeks with this problem.
I know it's probably to late, but the sensor is sippose to be on the negative cable, as per oem.
@@thomaseverley3847 is the long tab on the sensor supposed to be facing the terminal direction or away
Ivan, really enjoy your videos, along with Eric O. I have a similar year GM with the same smart charging system. The current sensor should be on the negative cable, so the system can monitor all current in the system. It appears the sensor was installed in reverse direction that is why you got a negative current reading, when in fact the battery had a net gain. My Mitchell online service diagrams confirms this.
Brian Sydnes yeah that’s actually what the documentation said too when he read it.
I'm having this problem with my 2007 Buick Lucerne I have changed the battery and alternator checked this seems to be good but still having the same problem any suggestions
@@tolbertkraig I went through 2 walmart Everstart batteries in 6 months, never had problems before and lasted for years, checked charging, voltage drop, parasitic draw, current sensor, all was ok, dealer also. Changed to AC Delco OEM battery and no more problems.
Man made problems
That means some jackass removed the sensor(that you don’t ever need to remove) and then installed it incorrectly
@@tssci6774 I've never had a Walmart ever start battery last more than a year anyway so that could be part of your problem lol
Good find!! hopeing to see you as the next automechanika in Alanta GA!
Pretty sure you and the previous repair shop installed that sensor wrong. Most of the current sensors are installed on the negative battery cable.
Good video but isn't it suppose to go around pos and neg cable ?
I have an 09 ss and I get that message all the time and it's horseshit but then again mine is disconnected as it was when I bought the car so I may hook it up and go from there , ,thanks for the helpful video
Can u explain why all the sudden my 5.3 is charging at 15.9 and dropping to 13.9 almost like it would in freezing temps ,I live in fla it’s 80 degrees out right now and has been
I almost spoke to soon. Very helpful. But I have connected a 2 gauge wire to an amp in trunk that does not go through that sensor. Should I rout the wire through the sensor?
Another thing. Idk if the wire will fit through the sensor.
I would replace the battery cables or use the battery cable ends that you can soder on just a better connections and eliminate problems and come backs down the road how many times these bolt on cable ends cause problems especially on the late model cars been there done it you know better Ivan good video learned something new take care Joe
That is the proper battery they did switch over to top-POST for a while
As soon as that battery and cables appeared in the camera I knew what they did lol
So, some are around the negative and some are around the positive. How do you know which it's supposed to be around? I just replaced my sensor and I'm STILL getting that warning. Mines on the positive a cable and the cable to the fuse box. Everything checks out good. Battery, alternator, starter. I'm about to give up. Done spent 1300 in the shop and no luck.
Nice vid as usual...BTW, I've come across a couple of newer honda accords that have a similar sensor at the battery post/terminal and when it goes bad, it fries the battery, new or old....just a little fyi...
Thank you very much for this video. It helped us and also help me educate my boys ..Good looking out
My pleasure, Paul!
Thanks Ivan now I know what that gizmo is on my GMC Sierra.
Thanks for sharing .Good diagnostics Ivan
Awesome video!
Replaced battery cables due to advance auto parts claiming my battery was good even though it wasn't, So I ended up with the same battery charging error afterwards, but After replacing the starter , I still had the error, so I eventually just got a new battery, and the electrical gremlins went away.
Good job. A lot of these vehicles need to coded when a new battery is fitted so they can charge at correct rate.
I have a 2008 Chevy equinox and for some reason the battery drains within a day or two. I checked all fuses and none of them are blown nor do I get a amp drop when removing fuses one by one. I checked the alternator at two local AutoZones and the alternator came out good. What do you think the problem could be? Also just finished watching a video where some guy was having the same issues as me with the same vehicle and he replaced the red wire that goes connected to the battery and it worked for him.
So does it go on the positive or on the negative currently my care is on a negative..
To me it's sad when you can't take the time to look how the battery saver sensor was set up from the factory when replacing battery cables.
It's not sad when a mechanic cannot remember how parts were connected before he started to work on ANY machine. It's unprofessional. There's no excuse for not taking a picture of something that's unfamiliar so you can tell if you put it back together the way it was before. Pictures won't help if someone worked on it previously and put it together wrong, but if they did, and there are new problems with new symptoms, that should make the next person who works on it question the previous work.
alot of new tech is about better fuel economy, and getting more power out of smaller engines. this smart battery system is made to cut the charging system back to save fuel during certain loads and conditions. the owners manual tells little bit about what it does. I have a 2005 grand prix gxp with the 5.3l chevy v8. it has this same system, it also has displacement on demand which turns off 4cylinders under light load. the government has new standards for trucks fuel economy coming soon, this is why we have ecoboost engines in ford trucks now. dodge and chevy are working on new 6cylinder engines for there trucks also.
You are awesome!! This video save my day today!!! Thanks for share your knowledge!!!
So, the car is doing what it's supposed to do, on a computer algorithmic perspective. It seems the other shop didn't fully know what they were doing, or isn't familiar working on this, and caused the system to go into this safety mode, causing the problem. I've always wondered what aftermarket parts, and in this case other shops that don't know the cars contributes to other issues. It seems like a pretty high statistic. So, far I've only let my GM dealer work on my cars, and I don't have really any issues with them. When I worked at Toyota, they had to correct problems from tire chain shops all the time.
Great video! I have a 2007 Buick Lucerne that has the battery under the back seat. Doesn't appear to have a sensor mounted like the under hood battery you feature. Can someone tell me where the current sensor in this Lucerne? I have already had the battery replaced multiple times and battery continues to go dead quickly. Replaced alternator also. Continue to get the "battery saver active" code.
In the description, it said that the sensor was on the negative cables, I suppose that it makes no difference other than the direction applied.
Good Pickup Of Bad Previous Install There ivan.
Hello my names mark,awsome video bro,I have a question for u if you can help me, I have 2016 Cherokee trailhawk 3.2 v6 I too have battery savor mode on ,I put a big sound stream so I know it has to be proxy alignment,the part I get confused,this jeep looks as if it has starter solenoid and stupid me befor I tore everything down I should of took pic of how wires we’re connected,the fuse box has 5 bolts that act as positive bud bar oh I for got to mention I also did the big 3 upgread, but any how I’m stuck at not know where alt pos wire gos dnd battery positive gos if you can please help me I’d appreciate it,by the way I’m nooooooo Macanic what so ever,thanks for your time
Got the check charging system awhile back that would go on and off then recently the battery saver light on my 2009 Impala, ordered a new sensor but see the two wires going to positive terminal are tacked in, so I guess I would have to cut the wires in order to install the new sensor.... and get a new terminal /lug.... I've not found any other videos that show what anyone did if the wires were tacked / welded to the terminal...... battery , Alt and starter all fairly new and recently checked and showed good.........
Hey Ivan, don't you read at alldata that the sensor goes connected on the negative side? Doesn't really matters that much apparently.
Jorge Carbajal Muñoz That is what he read on Alldata, and you cannot tighten that aftermarket terminal enough with a nut driver either. Probably should replace the battery cables while they still sell them and install proper battery. After 10 years, GM doesn't care if you get any new parts or not. But this is quick money mobile mechanics 😬
But the picture showed it on the positive cables! Doesn't matter either way :)
Ivan...Yes it's supposed to be on the positive just like you had it. When the OEM positive terminal is installed the only way to change the sensor is to remove the cable assy which is positive & negative cables, remove all the zipties and convoluted tubing, squeeze the + & - cables together at base and slide the sensor off & new back on OR replace the battery terminal end with a universal terminal and cut the OEM terminal off, slide off & on the current sensor, connect your cables to the universal terminal and your done in a fraction of the time. I use Mitchell Pro Demand & their illustrations and data are correct at least for this application so don't know why Alldata shows negative. When in the Battery Saver mode (KOEO) it removes the battery loads and if it's installed backwards will/should set a B1516 66 . I got one in that a shop had changed out the cable assy and didn't swap the current sensor over and then sent it out with all the DTCs and DIC lit up...they need to stick to lube, oil & filter like their sign reads.
It clearly works, but sensing from a single battery earth cable would have avoided all this.
Thank you for your help!
Great video, like always. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the positive comment, Scott!
Just put my car in the shop today for the exact same thing and it's a 2012 impala
Shonda L how much ? I have had the same problem now and cant fogure it out
Shonda L was it expensive? I have a 2012 impala and just replaced it with a brand new battery & the battery saver mode keeps coming on.
@@andregentry7525 the dealership was expensive so I took the diagnostic paper and let someone else fix it and I saved hundreds of dollars
Shonda L thank you I appreciate it
@@andregentry7525 no problem
The other shop did some hack job. Crappy replacement terminals, loose battery in tray, and of course incorrectly places sensor. Is that even the right battery for this application? (Side terminal or top terminal)
Yeah it looked pretty shoddy...oh well.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Ivan, aren't you glad you don't have to fix every problem on every car? I would never finish, just watching it rust away.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics looked like shit for such a nice looking car
So if the car didn't have this message system on the dash, what would likely happen.?
All data said the sensor should be on the negative cable. Reguardless as long as the sensor is placed the right way on either cable it shouldn't matter right?
Yep in this version you can either connect it around all negative or all positive cables on battery. Just member to but it in rigth orientation...
I was going to say the same thing...and decided to spot check the comments to see if anyone else spotted the same thing from the AllData description.
Ur a life saver, I had the same issue, no more!
Nice!
MY siter has same issue with her 2008 chevy impala but after battery saver come on it start shutting down first the ac then the dash lights come on battery abs do u think it a alternator issue take it to shope soon as i can get to her in T.N
Ivan, we are going to need to see you tape up those wires correctly with some Super 88 tape or at least some Super 33! 😆
I used Super 33 :)
I have an 08 chevy uplander that says charging system failure and battery saver active and then it just died and will turn over but won’t start. Any thoughts?
Thanks, my Malibu has that problem I bought two batteries in one month
Did u found out what the problem was?
Sounds like a bit of a superfluous system to me. I'm sure the ECM can do fine with reading the battery voltage which gives an approximate state of charge. The ECM should be programmed with the approximate load that systems draw depending on what is on and off which obviously the ECM knows what the approximate draw should be. It knows and controls the output of the alternator. A drop in system voltage could suffice to tell it to turn off the accessories. Seems like a money making/planned obsolescence/failure mode to me.
I saw DIC in the opening credit title and got nervous there for a second Ivan. haha Glad it was just a sensor placement issue.
The computer states connected to the negative cable. You connected it to the positive cables
I thought the sensor was around the negative battery cable. ?
Why would it matter?
I've experienced the same problem, and followed all the directions. The sign never comes on the dash anymore but now my car is dying faster than before the fix. I even replaced the positive terminal. Any idea where I went wrong
ive been educated!! i replaced the terminals battery alternator and starter and took that sensor off because i dodnt know what it was.. now i know why
Good one Ivan looked like this was at someone's house probably little better than having all the noise and angry looks lol.
Ha it was a nice change of pace for sure :)
I think the one on our little Chevy Sonic is on the negative cable . This would have avoided trying to run both large positive cable through the sensor .
I am guessing , if the sensor is installed with the cable running through it in the reverse direction , it would read incorrectly / reversed ?
Thanks , :-)
Wyr
God bless
I noticed the description of the sensor says it goes around the negative. Will it work on the positive like you put it ?? I’m having same issue
It's a current sensor... As long as direction is correct doesn't matter which cable it is on 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics awesome ! Thank you!
Can the battery current sensor be reset or reprogram or do you have to buy a whole new one? I have a 2018 Chevrolet impala premiere, Thanks in advance
Yes but through scanner. Technically you are supposed to reset the sensor everytime you replace the battery
Thanks for the video!!!!!!
So if you’re running a sound system positive wire for amp should run through the sensor also
Ever find an answer?
Sir that ringed sensor is supposed to be on the negative cable not the positive cable.
@@michaelrehkop4817 doesn't really matter... Current is the same 😉
Same problem with 2011 Buick LaCrosse that will stall while driving.
I just bought a new touch screen radio I connected it and then the battery charging system came on and the battery symbol was on what does that mean it only came on when I was connecting the radio
This light came on my 2010 Camaro. Not only did the "batter Saver Mode" come on but when I turned it off at the gas station it wouldn't turn back on again. I got it jumped and it still died. The car was literally shutting off! I got it jumped again and it died and shut down. My brother had to come find me and put a battery jump pack on the battery to get home. Then my dad put a temporary new battery in it. When I tied to go get something to eat the BSM light came back on so I went home out of fear that it would shut down on me again! It drives like it's flickering. It can't be just a sensor problem. Is it the fuse box? The Alternator? The battery? The wires? Some kind of belt? What can it be!?
George Louis having the same issue. Did you ever figure out the cause?
Dalinkwent K you need a new alternator. Mine was over 200 bucks.
George Louis Damn i was hoping it was a sensor or something because it was charging after i had the battery recharged but it died again today. Sucks, but i guess it's the problem after all.
Same problem here
One of these days that wedding band is either going to rip or electrically burn your finger off. It's just a matter of time. I've seen that happen twice in my career. Get rid of it when you're working.
why does it say the sensor is connected to the negative and you connected them to the positive?
what a stupendous fsckup someone did :))
did you look at alternator duty cycle, I wonder if it kept it near 100% and has been boiling the battery. then again, they probably factor in voltage or regulate more from it.
now I'm curious ^_^
You saw that system voltage was around 14V so nothing abnormal going on with alternator :)
Hey I did a big 3 upgrade on my electrical system on a 2010 impala iam gettin 14.7 an tha reading came om
Thank you!!!
I had the same problem, followed each step to fix it. And immediately after my car is turning over but not starting. Can anybody tell me what may be going wrong or what i may have done. Im not a professional. And i made sure all connections are tight already
Ty you where rite on fix it. Thanks again
Who did the backyard side post to top post conversion? :D
How do you deactivated the battery saver mode
Looks like the previous shop did not have the correct battery with GM-style side mount connections. To sell the customer a generic top post battery, they hacked off the factory sealed ring terminals from the cables and installed cheap aftermarket terminals that will promote future corrosion at the cable ends. And they messed up the battery sensor as an extra bonus!
It's supposed to be a top post, hard to believe but in 2007 GM was still using them on certain vehicles.
I concur, this car came from the factory with top post. GM exclusively doing side post is and has been no more.
yeah, factory top post on many of them and they corrode to fsckall from not washing/salt spray in the rust belt
I stand corrected. My 1997 Chevy Lumina and 2005 Malibu, both had side battery connections, and I thought that practice continued - bad assumption on my part. Checking an online parts catalog, it shows an old fashioned top post connector battery cable, as you stated.
There's more going on than that. The alternator cable was WAY bigger than stock. Those are brand new cables. Totally hacky installation though.
What if mine is on the negative cables pointing towards the negative post
I’m having the same problem in my 2006 Chevrolet uplander and I changed the battery and got the alternator checked but I’m still having this problem? Can you tell me what else could be the problem? Please and thank you.
Chances you have a bad electrical component or system that draining your battery. You need to find a mechanic that familiar with your car's electrical system, has the service manuals for your car and can do an parasitic electrical drain test on your car. Basically this involves determining which circuit in your cars electrical system is causing the problem.
by the wA that current sensor IS also an amp clamp(small Smurf sized)- & I beleive the direction it’s ‘pointing’ is the opposite direction of its ‘tail’(tape tab), which I beleive in this case(tail pointing towards +) means its pointing & measuring current from + to -(the other direction is electrons rather then magnetic? current)✋ I just wish some1 knew how to reset/calibrate these hobgoblNs😒