Thank you for this excellent video! I have been struggling to get a clean flood coat for months... your video helped me get past my issue. The key item that helped me was your specific comment to NOT torch the edges. I went back and watched the official Stone Coat flooding instructions... and while they don't torch the edges in their video, they don't tell you not to. I had been consistently torching the edges which causes a lot of the flood coat to not remain on the top surface and flow over the edge. Thanks again!
I just did a Leggari countertop and the metallic colors, etc. went down fine and I had a pretty great start and then the flood coat of the protector has been a mess. The methods described in this video are so different from what Leggari suggests it's shocking. They show videos of a single thin coat with their "de-shedded" brush and just zippity zap it's all beautiful and I don't know what they're smoking. I got a bubble/Starburst mess and have sanded it and done a second coat once already and was getting nowhere. I'm confident this notched trowel and stippeling technique with the torch finish is where I need to be. THANKS for awesome solution.
The trowel technique you showed helped me a lot. I just used it, and I was able to move the epoxy much better, faster, and way more efficiently. Thank you!
I'm thinking of doing this on the top surface of my new workbench. I need something that is impervious to chemicals and will be tough enough to protect the fairly soft plywood. Nice job! Thanks for the instructional video!
Very informative and you didn't talk like a speed freak. Great Tips, One of the very Best Tutorials I've seen. Some other TH-camrs talk so fast they actually give me Anxiety. Awesome!👍
This was so helpful. Thank you! I did go back to your videos though looking for the one you referred to in the this one about the heat gun and the torch when/how but I didn't see anything...?
When you chop the surface how long do you wait till it self levels. In the video you go from chopping to torching. Does it self level that quickly or are you torching before it levels? Thanks
Thank you for this! I am going in to clear coat my countertops now and just needed a quick reminder and some final tips. I found this video and now I feel confident! I have subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your videos....after I get the epoxy off my hands! : )
My flood coat looked wonderful the first 10 hours. 8 hours later full of small divots about the diameter of a pencil. Looking very closely, each divot has a speck of dust in the center. Ugh. I did my pour in a plastic sheeting tent in a closed room but apparently that is not enough to keep out the dusty desert air of Phoenix Arizona. It is for a small countertop in a small bathroom so not really noticeable unless you are at the right angle with the right light glare. But, for the kitchen I will have to do better. Mr Knotty Artisan doing his pour in a woodworking shop really surprises me to result in a perfectly flat surface. Also, no isopropyl alcohol wipe down?
You pour the resin before the hardener always. Imagine you have 8 ounces of hardener in a container. You slowly pour in the resin, but until it’s all (100%) poured, there is more hardener than resin. That is a bad combination. Too much hardener can lead to rapid set. The correct way is a full amount of resin, slowly pouring in hardener. Too much resin too little hardener = delayed slow set. Too much hardener= disaster. Great video
i wish i'd have watched your video before. I was in the middle of a nightmare epoxy attempt on my kitchen. it looked beautiful, but it would never harden. 4 days later.. i had to do the unthinkable, scrape the whole job away. I will give it a 2nd go later this week. I know what my mistakes were and i won't make them again! Sidebar: Scraping half hardened/ sticky epoxy is no fun man! Follow the steps to the letter and you should have no issues.
Good video but you left out the link to the heat gun vs flame uses... didn't see it either in your video list. Also idea: give a video on how to REPAIR, like the dreaded hair in the epoxy, the dreaded over flamed area that caused your epoxy to be thin, and air/bubble dipples that you missed and are now rock hard. You know general fixes to common mistakes.
Hi. Loved the video. Why don’t you use Stone Coat anymore? I do have a question about the drips on edges. What do you do about them? Sand them off? Wipe off before dry? Thanks!
Im doing some tables for a coffee shop and I'm trying to figure out if I should do a flood pour or not. Would 3-4 seal coats be enough? I feel like a flood coat would make it look a bit too shiny.
This is a great video! I live in Albuquerque, NM (dusty location similar to Vegas). How do you keep your shop dust free? I have done several flood coats and I can minimize the dust, but I have yet to have a flood coat set up completely dust free. Do you keep your shop dust free? Is there a method for removing small dust particles after the fact? Any tips you can share would be great!
Hi Robby. We do wood working and resin together so we have tons of dust. I have a pour room that we use but even that doesn't keep all the particles out of it. To be honest we don't even worry about it. We hone and polish all of our pieces so the dust particles that get caught in it don't matter at all as they all get removed in the process. I'll shoot a video of the process and post it this week for you.
So I have done a few tables but have NEVER got a flood coat that perfectly level and had no dimples or dust particles. Do you have that PERFECT glass finish or is it normal to expect that imperfect perfection :). I know I can live with it but I doubt if clients would except that !. Thoughts ?
I used to have a very large clean room built for the express purpose of keeping those pesky particles out of my epoxy (even then it rarely worked). Now I don't sweat it at all. I sand all of my countertops and apply a protective topcoat that takes care of all those issues for me.
Hi did you sand the first coat before you did the flood coat ? as i have done a bar top and have a few edges that are not smooth so was thinking of doing a flood coat to rectify the problem . thanks for any help.
I actually don't do anything to prevent the dust. I also pour in an active woodshop. I let it cure, give it a good sand with 220 grit (removing anything that might have ended up in it) than top with liquid rock for an outstanding finish every time.
Depends on what your doing. When I build countertops or river tables I always seal the underside. If it an art piece or something small I skip it. Hope this helps.
good stuff! How do you clean up the drops accumulating on the underside of the table top? I did the same, but overnight as the epoxy leveled out, it went over the edge and the sides and made hardened drops on the underside...which ruined everything...any tips on preventing that?
I agree that would have been good to cover as it is part of the process! There is a taping technique but you can also just sand off the drips from bottom then just use oldies oil or walrus oil as a matte coat for the bottom.
Mixing in a large bucket mix for 2 minutes only and HURRY UP and get your epoxy out of the large amount of epoxy bucket and into your safe long working area of small cups or onto your counter top. . Working time in large bucket is shortened dramatic. The epoxy heats up in large amounts super fast. Where in small amounts one to four oz cups you are good for 40 minutes plus even up to an hours or sometimes two or even longer. LOL I came back the next day and poured out 2 oz from two different cups of epoxy from the day before pour WOW! My first pour ever I mixed one gallon of epoxy for four minutes plus . I then poured a half gallon into many many 4 - 6 oz cups. . .Leaving a half gallon now in the bucket. I mixed all my colors getting them all just right in the small cups. After nearly 10 minutes I was done and went to pick up the half gallon of resin and wow !!! was it ever very very hot I felt all the small cups and they were stone cold. .So I quickly poured all my small cups into big bucket to do an exotic dirty pour. As I was pouring the epoxy out on counter top the bucket kept getting super hot in the big bucket so bad I had to set it down and it started smoking and with like even a small eruption. Everything in the bottom half of the bucket was already set and ruined and HOT!!! In LIKe 16 minutes or so and that half gallon ruined it all. I have done a fair amount of large pours after that with extremely long working time on the counter top. But I mix mine now for two minutes period and get rid of it from big bucket. On the table you'll trowel it which is mixing it and use the brush too which is mixing it again....
Is there an easy way to eliminate the dried drips on the bottom of the piece? I've heard people talk about taping the bottom. Is that effective? And, if so, what type of tape?
Taping works great but can take time to get off. You can also just sand the drips off then coat the whole thing with cutting board oil (oldie’s, Walrus, etc)
Hi Joe. The short answer is probably not. The long answer is what caused the table to cup? Can you shoot me some pics and I’ll be glad to offer some suggestions.
@@KnottyArtisan, thanks for your response. I’m not sure I can convey my predicament accurately but, here goes. 1) I am a garage shop rookie trying my first river table. 2) I created a solid base on which to work and leveled it both ways. 3) Created the appropriate temperature, mixed my epoxy and started the pour. 4) Immediately noticed the epoxy overflowing the middle before filling up at the ends. 5) Hopefully you can see in the pics the material set lower than poured and the middle of the table has a cup. It is still level end to end and across edge to edge. 6) The epoxy is 1/8” low across the middle and 1/4” low on each end. I stopped filling when I noticed the middle overfilling before the ends filled. 7) I used Epoxy Flow Cast so, I have until tomorrow morning to add a lift. I intend to tilt the table to one end, fill that end and tilt the table to the other end and fill that end. Each with clear epoxy to maintain the color and swirling achieved. 7) I see my options at that point are to re-flatten the top or fill the middle to flatten side to side. Quite a predicament, right? Live and learn.
I noticed the flood coat is dripping onto the work table. When that hardens, doesn’t the table stick to the work table? I’m about to do my flood coat and worried it will seal itself to the work table. Please let me know!
Put some painters triangles under your work pieces so there elevated from your work bench,then after an hour wipe the sides and the underneath of your piece that way it can’t stick to the other surface ,I’m not the maker of this vid I just noticed your comments and thought I would help you out .🤞good luck
Knotty Artisan thx for the reply! I will send you a pic maybe next week, i have read in that the room i worked in, was to cold. Ima try it out again and if it still wrinkles up ima come back to you.
Probably the wrong video to ask on since this is a flood coat.. Noticed a lot of people talk about taping their sides. Do you not tape your sides during the pour? Or not concerned because perfectly level?
Great question! Taping your board keeps the epoxy in place allowing you more time to apply effects and different techniques without worrying about your epoxy flowing too quickly. Truth is after a bit of practice as long as you level your boards prior to pouring you'll get proficient enough at pouring that taping won't be necessary.
Depends on the epoxy. Some epoxies are very thick and when you over mix them they encapsulate so much air it's almost impossible to get rid of them all particularly in cooler temps. Others have slightly thinner blends with bubble release agents that mix together a lot better.
You should clean your drill mixer bit. Dried resin could break off putting foreign material in your product. Not good to demo bad habits that could negatively affect your viewership. Also, I believe SCC recommends you don’t use a drill mixer for the seal/flood coats since it incorporates more air bubbles. Yes, I know you can torch but again, kind of showing shortcuts that could have negative effects. That being said, pretty good video.
Hi Keith thanks for the feedback. That drill has so many layers of resin on it that is would take a hammer and chisel to get anything of it. Using the drill for a seal coat is good practice not a shortcut. It's to ensure a thorough mix of the final coat and eliminates all potential tacky spots. As an added bonus due to the long working time of SCC the bubbles have plenty of time to work their way out and a final pass with your torch turns it to glass. If you ever find yourself in Vegas come look us up we run a lot of resin.
how come all the videos talking about stone coat countertops are SPONSORED by them??? Where are the organic diy videos using this stuff? nothing wrong woth your vids or business... just saying that everything I see regarding Stone Coat is managed marketing, which means the opinions are biased. Id love to see some honest diy or reviews for Stone Coat that are not influenced by free gallons of product, discount offers for subscribers, etc. ...did you discuss this video with them before making it? did they offer you product at a discount? is the promo code in your description a referral for profit? if so, then you have a bias to promote the product rather than offering a fair and truly honest review..... and, my opinion, it makes you more of a knotty sales rep, rather than an artisan... just add a pitchy, over-excited sales voice and you could make videos for them.
Thank you for this excellent video! I have been struggling to get a clean flood coat for months... your video helped me get past my issue. The key item that helped me was your specific comment to NOT torch the edges. I went back and watched the official Stone Coat flooding instructions... and while they don't torch the edges in their video, they don't tell you not to. I had been consistently torching the edges which causes a lot of the flood coat to not remain on the top surface and flow over the edge. Thanks again!
Glad we can help. We’re filming a new one about how to get perfect edges right now hope you get a chance to check it out.
I just did a Leggari countertop and the metallic colors, etc. went down fine and I had a pretty great start and then the flood coat of the protector has been a mess. The methods described in this video are so different from what Leggari suggests it's shocking. They show videos of a single thin coat with their "de-shedded" brush and just zippity zap it's all beautiful and I don't know what they're smoking. I got a bubble/Starburst mess and have sanded it and done a second coat once already and was getting nowhere. I'm confident this notched trowel and stippeling technique with the torch finish is where I need to be. THANKS for awesome solution.
I just found you it has been three years ago but I would have loved to seen your project dried sincerely thanks for all your hard work
Proud of that NHS grad! So cool to see you on TH-cam.
The trowel technique you showed helped me a lot. I just used it, and I was able to move the epoxy much better, faster, and way more efficiently. Thank you!
Great to hear! Glad I could help.
I'm thinking of doing this on the top surface of my new workbench. I need something that is impervious to chemicals and will be tough enough to protect the fairly soft plywood. Nice job! Thanks for the instructional video!
Check out urbanartresin.com slow cure polyaspartic. It is impervious to chemicals and can stand up to outside condition.
my guy out here killin it
Aw Yeah thanks for the love!
@@KnottyArtisan always, im comin to vegas
Very informative and you didn't talk like a speed freak. Great Tips, One of the very Best Tutorials I've seen. Some other TH-camrs talk so fast they actually give me Anxiety. Awesome!👍
The saw startled me 😆 thought you were hit😬🤭
sorry about that.
@@KnottyArtisan it scared the s*#t out of me EVERY TIME LOL!!!
It got me as well, but I came to appreciate it! 😂
Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. Working on my first flood epoxy project. Cheers 🍻
This was so helpful. Thank you! I did go back to your videos though looking for the one you referred to in the this one about the heat gun and the torch when/how but I didn't see anything...?
It has been a while,th!nks for the reminders
Hello my old friend, I have got to get back to this stuff,
Thank you for the info about the brand of epoxy you're now using. Send me some pictures of your kitchen countertops you've done.
Very helpfull lots of hints, thanks for sharing 👏👏👏
thanks for watching
I’m in Vegas too. Would love to come by and see your shop sometime if you’re willing.
When you chop the surface how long do you wait till it self levels. In the video you go from chopping to torching. Does it self level that quickly or are you torching before it levels? Thanks
Can I tape the edges to prevent epoxy from drawing back leaving dry edge. Then take the tape off before it cures?
Thank you for this! I am going in to clear coat my countertops now and just needed a quick reminder and some final tips. I found this video and now I feel confident! I have subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your videos....after I get the epoxy off my hands! : )
Glad it helped. How'd the countertops turn out?
Can I ask where you buy the best top coat you use as well as your polyaspartic.. I’ve watched your videos on them
My flood coat looked wonderful the first 10 hours. 8 hours later full of small divots about the diameter of a pencil. Looking very closely, each divot has a speck of dust in the center. Ugh. I did my pour in a plastic sheeting tent in a closed room but apparently that is not enough to keep out the dusty desert air of Phoenix Arizona. It is for a small countertop in a small bathroom so not really noticeable unless you are at the right angle with the right light glare. But, for the kitchen I will have to do better. Mr Knotty Artisan doing his pour in a woodworking shop really surprises me to result in a perfectly flat surface. Also, no isopropyl alcohol wipe down?
Your link for recommended epoxy doesn’t work.
Great video it helped me fix a big mistake I made
What ceramic coat should i use for water and scratch resistance
You pour the resin before the hardener always. Imagine you have 8 ounces of hardener in a container. You slowly pour in the resin, but until it’s all (100%) poured, there is more hardener than resin. That is a bad combination. Too much hardener can lead to rapid set.
The correct way is a full amount of resin, slowly pouring in hardener. Too much resin too little hardener = delayed slow set. Too much hardener= disaster.
Great video
Stone coat recommends pouring in harder first. You follow the directions for each brand as per label.
Great work!
Thank you.
i wish i'd have watched your video before. I was in the middle of a nightmare epoxy attempt on my kitchen. it looked beautiful, but it would never harden. 4 days later.. i had to do the unthinkable, scrape the whole job away. I will give it a 2nd go later this week. I know what my mistakes were and i won't make them again! Sidebar: Scraping half hardened/ sticky epoxy is no fun man! Follow the steps to the letter and you should have no issues.
Oh no! Hope it came out better the second time.
I got alot out of this! Thanks!
Have you tried using a foam brush to break the surface tension?
Awesome Video. Thank you sir
Did you get around to posting the how too on torch and heat gun?
GovMule I was looking for the same information on that too.
B is thinner and mixes better on the bottom of the bucket, where A will have unmixed epoxy on the bottom.
Good video but you left out the link to the heat gun vs flame uses... didn't see it either in your video list. Also idea: give a video on how to REPAIR, like the dreaded hair in the epoxy, the dreaded over flamed area that caused your epoxy to be thin, and air/bubble dipples that you missed and are now rock hard. You know general fixes to common mistakes.
Awesome suggestions. I'll shoot some videos on all of that.
Is the first batch of epoxy the same ratio as the flood coat? The 3 oz per square foot?
Hi. Loved the video. Why don’t you use Stone Coat anymore? I do have a question about the drips on edges. What do you do about them? Sand them off? Wipe off before dry? Thanks!
Did you give a reply? I am not familiar with You Tube.
Hi Pat. I do not use or recommend stone coat anymore. I sand the drips after they have dried.
Im doing some tables for a coffee shop and I'm trying to figure out if I should do a flood pour or not. Would 3-4 seal coats be enough? I feel like a flood coat would make it look a bit too shiny.
whats a nipple mark in the epoxy mean? you said it at the end
Great video thx was very helpful
Glad it helped
This is a great video! I live in Albuquerque, NM (dusty location similar to Vegas). How do you keep your shop dust free? I have done several flood coats and I can minimize the dust, but I have yet to have a flood coat set up completely dust free. Do you keep your shop dust free? Is there a method for removing small dust particles after the fact? Any tips you can share would be great!
Hi Robby. We do wood working and resin together so we have tons of dust. I have a pour room that we use but even that doesn't keep all the particles out of it. To be honest we don't even worry about it. We hone and polish all of our pieces so the dust particles that get caught in it don't matter at all as they all get removed in the process. I'll shoot a video of the process and post it this week for you.
@@KnottyArtisanI'd love to see that!
So I have done a few tables but have NEVER got a flood coat that perfectly level and had no dimples or dust particles. Do you have that PERFECT glass finish or is it normal to expect that imperfect perfection :).
I know I can live with it but I doubt if clients would except that !. Thoughts ?
I used to have a very large clean room built for the express purpose of keeping those pesky particles out of my epoxy (even then it rarely worked). Now I don't sweat it at all. I sand all of my countertops and apply a protective topcoat that takes care of all those issues for me.
@@KnottyArtisan so u flood coat, sand and then do a top coat? Do u still get a glassy mirror finish?
Hi did you sand the first coat before you did the flood coat ? as i have done a bar top and have a few edges that are not smooth so was thinking of doing a flood coat to rectify the problem . thanks for any help.
Do you put a tent over your project as it cures? Do you have any PRO TIPS on how to avoid dust and small hairs while it’s curing? Tyia✌️
I actually don't do anything to prevent the dust. I also pour in an active woodshop. I let it cure, give it a good sand with 220 grit (removing anything that might have ended up in it) than top with liquid rock for an outstanding finish every time.
Knotty Artisan can you share a link to the liquid rock you are referring to plz sir? I’m not seeing it. Tyvm
Should the underside be sealed?
Depends on what your doing. When I build countertops or river tables I always seal the underside. If it an art piece or something small I skip it. Hope this helps.
How do you get rid of the drip marks around the bottom Edge
good stuff! How do you clean up the drops accumulating on the underside of the table top? I did the same, but overnight as the epoxy leveled out, it went over the edge and the sides and made hardened drops on the underside...which ruined everything...any tips on preventing that?
I agree that would have been good to cover as it is part of the process! There is a taping technique but you can also just sand off the drips from bottom then just use oldies oil or walrus oil as a matte coat for the bottom.
Mixing in a large bucket mix for 2 minutes only and HURRY UP and get your epoxy out of the large amount of epoxy bucket and into your safe long working area of small cups or onto your counter top. . Working time in large bucket is shortened dramatic. The epoxy heats up in large amounts super fast. Where in small amounts one to four oz cups you are good for 40 minutes plus even up to an hours or sometimes two or even longer. LOL I came back the next day and poured out 2 oz from two different cups of epoxy from the day before pour WOW! My first pour ever I mixed one gallon of epoxy for four minutes plus . I then poured a half gallon into many many 4 - 6 oz cups. . .Leaving a half gallon now in the bucket. I mixed all my colors getting them all just right in the small cups. After nearly 10 minutes I was done and went to pick up the half gallon of resin and wow !!! was it ever very very hot I felt all the small cups and they were stone cold. .So I quickly poured all my small cups into big bucket to do an exotic dirty pour. As I was pouring the epoxy out on counter top the bucket kept getting super hot in the big bucket so bad I had to set it down and it started smoking and with like even a small eruption. Everything in the bottom half of the bucket was already set and ruined and HOT!!! In LIKe 16 minutes or so and that half gallon ruined it all. I have done a fair amount of large pours after that with extremely long working time on the counter top. But I mix mine now for two minutes period and get rid of it from big bucket. On the table you'll trowel it which is mixing it and use the brush too which is mixing it again....
Is there an easy way to eliminate the dried drips on the bottom of the piece? I've heard people talk about taping the bottom. Is that effective? And, if so, what type of tape?
Taping works great but can take time to get off. You can also just sand the drips off then coat the whole thing with cutting board oil (oldie’s, Walrus, etc)
I recently poured a river table that ended up cupped. Can I use a clear coat to level the cupping?
Hi Joe. The short answer is probably not. The long answer is what caused the table to cup? Can you shoot me some pics and I’ll be glad to offer some suggestions.
@@KnottyArtisan, thanks for your response. I’m not sure I can convey my predicament accurately but, here goes.
1) I am a garage shop rookie trying my first river table.
2) I created a solid base on which to work and leveled it both ways.
3) Created the appropriate temperature, mixed my epoxy and started the pour.
4) Immediately noticed the epoxy overflowing the middle before filling up at the ends.
5) Hopefully you can see in the pics the material set lower than poured and the middle of the table has a cup. It is still level end to end and across edge to edge.
6) The epoxy is 1/8” low across the middle and 1/4” low on each end. I stopped filling when I noticed the middle overfilling before the ends filled.
7) I used Epoxy Flow Cast so, I have until tomorrow morning to add a lift. I intend to tilt the table to one end, fill that end and tilt the table to the other end and fill that end. Each with clear epoxy to maintain the color and swirling achieved.
7) I see my options at that point are to re-flatten the top or fill the middle to flatten side to side.
Quite a predicament, right? Live and learn.
I have pics but don’t see a way to upload.
I noticed the flood coat is dripping onto the work table. When that hardens, doesn’t the table stick to the work table? I’m about to do my flood coat and worried it will seal itself to the work table. Please let me know!
Put some painters triangles under your work pieces so there elevated from your work bench,then after an hour wipe the sides and the underneath of your piece that way it can’t stick to the other surface ,I’m not the maker of this vid I just noticed your comments and thought I would help you out .🤞good luck
Good video but every time i try it, it gets wrinkles everywhere. Do you have any idea to prevent that?
Wrinkles?? Can you send me a pic? We'll help you out.
Knotty Artisan thx for the reply! I will send you a pic maybe next week, i have read in that the room i worked in, was to cold. Ima try it out again and if it still wrinkles up ima come back to you.
Great job you where born to taech
Thanks Tom that means alot
What size trowel did he say? I thought he said 1 inch but that doesn’t look like a 1 inch trowel.
3/8 inch notched trowel
Probably the wrong video to ask on since this is a flood coat.. Noticed a lot of people talk about taping their sides. Do you not tape your sides during the pour? Or not concerned because perfectly level?
Great question! Taping your board keeps the epoxy in place allowing you more time to apply effects and different techniques without worrying about your epoxy flowing too quickly. Truth is after a bit of practice as long as you level your boards prior to pouring you'll get proficient enough at pouring that taping won't be necessary.
@@KnottyArtisan Thank you I'm going to do a test run on the acrylic video I watched of yours this weekend!
Is it possible to over-mix epoxy?
Depends on the epoxy. Some epoxies are very thick and when you over mix them they encapsulate so much air it's almost impossible to get rid of them all particularly in cooler temps. Others have slightly thinner blends with bubble release agents that mix together a lot better.
@@KnottyArtisan Thank you for your help :)
Please upload the 3 minute video.
You should clean your drill mixer bit. Dried resin could break off putting foreign material in your product. Not good to demo bad habits that could negatively affect your viewership. Also, I believe SCC recommends you don’t use a drill mixer for the seal/flood coats since it incorporates more air bubbles. Yes, I know you can torch but again, kind of showing shortcuts that could have negative effects. That being said, pretty good video.
Hi Keith thanks for the feedback. That drill has so many layers of resin on it that is would take a hammer and chisel to get anything of it. Using the drill for a seal coat is good practice not a shortcut. It's to ensure a thorough mix of the final coat and eliminates all potential tacky spots. As an added bonus due to the long working time of SCC the bubbles have plenty of time to work their way out and a final pass with your torch turns it to glass. If you ever find yourself in Vegas come look us up we run a lot of resin.
how come all the videos talking about stone coat countertops are SPONSORED by them??? Where are the organic diy videos using this stuff? nothing wrong woth your vids or business... just saying that everything I see regarding Stone Coat is managed marketing, which means the opinions are biased. Id love to see some honest diy or reviews for Stone Coat that are not influenced by free gallons of product, discount offers for subscribers, etc. ...did you discuss this video with them before making it? did they offer you product at a discount? is the promo code in your description a referral for profit? if so, then you have a bias to promote the product rather than offering a fair and truly honest review..... and, my opinion, it makes you more of a knotty sales rep, rather than an artisan... just add a pitchy, over-excited sales voice and you could make videos for them.
We are not sponsored by or receive any free product from StoneCoatCountertops we do like and use their resin.
@@KnottyArtisan Love Stone coat products and videos, all the people associated with Stone coat are so helpful.
That would be.... suck aha
Glug, glug, glug. Don’t wanna promote that
Nope.