So you want to do an epoxy finish? DO THIS Instead | End Table Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2023
- Buy this piece on my website! burnswoodshop.com/store-1/p/l...
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Please let me know what you think of it in the comments! Haters are always welcome on my channel, I will never delete a comment or block someone. I feel like you guys should be able to speak freely in the comments even if you have a negative opinion on my work!
This is just a part time side business for me at the moment, I film and edit all my videos from my iPhone. I would really love to do this full time, so any feedback on the video really helps me understand what I can do to make these videos better for you guys!
Do you want talking or no talking?
What is your favorite part of the video?
Why are you watching this video?
-do you want to see more fractal wood burning? or do you just want to watch a video of something being made for entertainment?
Do you care to hear more about the fractal wood burning process?
Any feedback helps!
Thanks again for watching!
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Very refreshing to watch a video where the author is sharing his experience with a complete absence of ego - explaining the problems encountered in his project, requesting advice from the community and still creating an impressive finished project. Well done!
Thank you very much!!
Try vacuuming the epoxy before you apply it. I make similar stuff. Having a 3-5 gallon vacuum chamber will show you how much air is in it.
Love it
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620call me dumb or whatever but I've done a few end grain wood slab pours to make clocks not tables, but instead of that heaping piece of particle board, a few pieces of packing tape will do the same, sometimes it peels right off, other times I sand it off. And also you said you use deep pour but wow that wood soaked up that epoxy faster than I've ever seen by 100x Maybe different woods make a big difference but if you sand it finer it may not soak up as much epoxy. Just my thoughts. Cool video man, I definitely learned a few things here and first time seeing someone use a vacuum chamber? I gotta look into that more, tired of fighting bubbles
Your router sled is badass, gonna try to copy you
It’s been my experience that you have to varathane, I use a water base, before you use resin. If you don’t the wood keeps bubbling after. Make sure your wood is very dry. And just use your mixture to seal up the bottom. Also another good way to get rid of bubbles is isopropyl alcohol 90 percent and spray it on. Helps with the bubbles and doesn’t affect the epoxy at all. Like your video. Very nice piece. Was a learning curve for me when I started.😊
Thanks! I actually have another piece I’m working on now I’m going to try that.
You can also do a thin skim coat of epoxy to seal the wood and allow to dry then sand and pour finish.
@@rainman6080 yeah if you use deep pour epoxy or heat the wood up maybe. Tabletop epoxy doesn't really sink into the grain much. I notice when removing cured epoxy with a scraper...scraper slides right in between. Nasty job though especially with uncured layers. Still preferred over the chemical removers man those will kill ya.
I wood not you a deep pour epoxy on a primer coat. You can add 10% xylene or acetone to the primer coat. 10 oz of epoxy 1 oz xylene. If you’re mixing two to one Epoxy and you end up mixing 12 ounces, you can still add 1 ounce this number is not exact it just helps thin the epoxy to fill in areas that may cause air bubbles later
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620There is a much thinner better penetrating epoxy for sealing and penetrating deeper into the wood. Its consistency is closer to water. It's called Total Boat penetrating epoxy, it mixes 2:1. You can also add 1 part denatured alcohol or acetone to make it even thinner, that's what I did.
You probably have air being released from the wood where it's not all filled in. This company makes the thick pour type epoxy as well. Also it might help to get a strong vibrator and vibrate the wood to get the air out after you pour.
You were asking about the micro bubbles, try not mixing it with power mixer, carefully mix it a tongue depressor and carefully pour it out not to introduce air. I once worked in a place that mass produced epoxy coated items. Epoxy was mixed in a metering gun and poured out in a temp and humidity controlled room. No sanding or polishing. If there was a problem the rep would figure it out and tweak the formula. Epoxy gets old real quick and starts to separate. You can still use it but you need to heat it and remix it. Even atmospheric pressure has an affect on the outcome. Instead of mold release you can use packaging tape.
Spot on..!!
Just sit the bucket in boiling hot water while you mix and let it sit in the hot water for a bit. The bubbles disípate.
@@JerzyBoy973good one. Will try it next time I epoxy.
I also mix with tongue depressor or a small piece of lattice. But the air bubbles may have worked up from the wood itself if it was not sealed completely. I have had that experience myself and the Apoxy was a little too cured to torch the bubbles out of it .
@@JerzyBoy973hey thank you for that tip . I will use the boiling water hack on my next pour. And if you have any more tips for better Apoxy pours please let me know . I'm thinking about putting out a list of tips for this if you would like to give up some info.
We'll call it (Apoxy Hacks for Beginners) and everyone else. Thank you JerzyBoy973 and have a great day.
That is a gorgeous piece of work. I have done woodworking for myself and family a long time (50 yrs) and the one thing I pick up from your video that I truly empathize with you on is your love of the journey, not the destination.
It takes a huge amount of patience and love of the art, to perform the dozens of steps you did. A person doesn't do that except when their greatest pleasure is in the creating, not possessing.
I wish I had the stamina, and the shop you do. I would be very motivated to start up another piece of furniture after watching your video.
I never thought about it like that but that’s absolutely spot on. Thank you for this comment!
You are very welcome. I know passion when I see it.
When anyone, can find a creative outlet and practice it, they grow emotionally and spiritually. They just don't realize it.
What they notice is the endorphins and being happy within the process.
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620
I think you made the right call with the shellac. Personally I feel it looked better than the epoxy top coat
The combo of wood and epoxy are challenging. 1st you need to completely seal the wood. If its still absorbing epoxy then the wood can off gas into the epoxy. I ruined some pieces this way. 2nd big tip is vacuum chamber the epoxy to be sure all the bubbles are out prior to the pour.
The most important aspect when working w epoxy and wood.
Seal the wood, mix the epoxy, let it set for a few minutes, run heat over it, pour it, lightly run heat over again, do this every 5 min or so to pop any new bubbles. Do not over heat.
If he did everything in the same order he presented it on video, he put the epoxy in the vacuum chamber, and then added a drop of black dye and stirred it adding air back in to the vacuumed epoxy. Hopefully he added that black dye prior to vacuuming the epoxy and just slipped up in the edit.
Too be fair though the microbubbles were in the final coat of clear. Not the tinted deep pour. After the epoxy it should've been sanded with a 100-150 grit then topcoated with a 2k polyurethane. That fills the microbubbles very well. But I also didn't see him vac the clear coat at all. That could've worked as well. But the 2k poly would've provided more uv resistance and other benefits as well
Am I the only one that loves him using a screw driver as a chisel?
Great video. Beautiful piece. I've worked with epoxy finishes several times. My key to get the micro bubbles removed is to go over the finish two or three times with the torch. Wait a few minutes between torches. But when you torch, make sure you have a light source in front of you as you are torching so the light shines off the surface as you torch. You can see the micro bubbles and see them pop as you torch them. Just finished a click that way, and the finished surface was pristine! Give it a try.
The table looks great!
Sealing the wood 1st before the epoxy is a must.
Mix epoxy by hand, once applied, torch to remove bubbles, NOT TOO CLOSE or it WILL burn. Keep torch moving always.
Repeat as necessary every 15 or 20 mins.
GREAT lighting is critical when using epoxy, use a hand light as well.
While epoxy is curing and you're not working on it, turn all the lights off...the reflection will attract bugs.
Good to know, thanks for the tips!
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 great job on the table. As far as the bubbles go I’ve seen where people use those pressure cookers to release bubbles and it seems to be a very affective way to eliminate that problem. Good luck.
How do you like the n3? I was literally looking at his store before coming across your video. Anyway I’d like to try it but don’t know anyone who’s ever heard of it let alone used it.
A possible consideration of " Sanding Sealer " at the initial stage might work..?? Any thoughts on that..obviously a complete dust free zone is also important with temperature control..!!
@@bernardhill1622 Yes, sanding sealer works well. Much less time drying and much cheaper as well. Just scuff the sealer with some 220 for a good mechanical bond.
Beautiful piece. For finishes I use polyurethane instead. I only use epoxy for filling voids / creating a solid and stable working platform. My finishes is either a food safe finish or polyurethane finish. Same steps you use after you coat it. Let it dry then wet sand at 600 grit if it is really uneven then another coat. Wet sand at 1000 grit and another coat. The more times you do this the deeper the shine. Most of my decor bowls are 4 coats but at times I go to 8 coats wet sanding between each. I use a rag like a regular white t-shirt to apply and I do not use the thick triple coat polyurethane. To me the thick polyurethane doesn’t work as well. But that’s just what I do and it works for me. Your work on this piece was amazing. Keep it up my friend.
Thanks for the tips! I have had much better luck working with Polly over epoxy. I just keep going back to epoxy because I want to try and get it right!
Great Job on the video. I like epoxy, but for finishes most our customers prefer the matte poly finish. In my opinion its a easier finish, it’s durable and looks more natural.
The main thing people don't realize is epoxy is actually not a good top coat. But it's not meant for that in many ways. It's a high build coating that provides strength and durability. I'm a 5th generation 30 year painter and I finish everything from shingles down to the concrete floors and I've worked with every finish under the sun. The problem with a lot of the epoxy projects you see is that they aren't using the right combination of products. Just like you might use a pva primer then a full acrylic paint on a wall. The epoxy is best for filling and building then you topcoat with a polyurethane. In fact using a sealer, then epoxy, then poly is even better. And of course, just like a 15 dollar can of Walmart paint isn't the same as a 100 dollar can of industrial grade paint, not all epoxy is created equal. It comes in many shapes and sizes. I do have to say I was disappointed that after he put the epoxy on he didn't topcoat with a strong 2k poly. Could've had a much thicker, much stronger finish than the shellac. And it would've filled in those microbubbles
You made a beautiful piece. One bit of info i can lend to you (or those watching) is when wet sanding is don't use dust extraction once you get to 1000 grit and higher. The extractor can make your scratches worse. Plus hand sand your last grit twice by hand in the same direction. That was a trick I learned from doing auto body work.
I apply the shellac with a wad of cotton wrapped in linen and circular motion. It takes time to fill the grain with shellac but it's worth it as my pieces look like they are coated with a thin layer of glass. Just coat after coat until you get the finish that you want.
The patience that french polishing requires is pretty dang high lol even by wood working standards
@@chesterross7513 yep, you either love it or hate it and when you are on the 14th coat and stuff up!!!!! If you don't swear then you soon learn lol.
Silicone brush won't waste a drop (or flake). Takes some practice and sanding every few coats but goes on 5x thicker.
You are obviously a perfectionist. That thing looked beautiful to me halfway thru the process.
That router sled is awesome-especially the dust skirt thing. Nice table!
I love it! Thanks!
Excellent video! Did you make the base the router sits on? Just bought the rails you suggested...but don't see details on the base. Can you share please?
@@seitercaroline4386
I’m looking for same thing
It looks like such a basic & simple design (the rail setup in its entirety… I can’t comprehend the $400.00-$1600.00 tags on some of the complete setups 🙀🤯🤯🤯🤷🏼♀️‼️‼️‼️
@Kissykid I ended up attaching rails to 3/8 " clear polycarbonate Lexan and glued the dust shoe brush to it. Attached rails a tad different. LUVIT
2+ coats of diluted Shellac or Deep pour epoxy only for seal coats (never tabletop imo)
Torch bubbles in epoxy twice. Once after a minute or so, second time 20 minutes later. Careful to do it light and quick with good lighting, easy.
The best epoxy finish is sanded dead flat from 120-330 all the way to 10,000, compound, polish, add a ceramic coat and wax that sucker. I do this all the time, it's worth every bit.
That home made router tool is awesome man
Thank you!!
That’s an insane amount of labor to finish that top. Good on you for sticking with it.
I almost gave up 😂 thanks!
Beautiful table, thanks for tutorial ❤ us a flashlight on your epoxy pour while it’s still liquid and you see any bubble left behind or forming. The light refracts off the bubbles and identifies their existence
Thank you! And that’s a great tip, I’ll have to try it next time if I ever decide to give this finish another go 😂
One of the most thoroughly explained videos out there. Very nice.
Thank you very much!! 😁
depends on what you are focused on
That flattening table is sick!
Thanks! It’s a game changer!
Great job, man! Really excellent work, and I respect the honesty about the issues you found in your work. Happens to me all the time, but it can be a valuable lesson once you work your way through it. 😊👍
I have done a lot of tables with epoxy, but I never tried to get a perfect finish. As said by others, it is better to warm up the finish and the project first. For me, shellac is the only way to go. I hand rub (French rub) the top, which takes many coats to get it right. Sure, shellac will not hold up as well as harder finishes, but it doesn't look fake like the others and it is so easy to fix any future issues.
That router sled is sweet!
Amazing how similar our shops, tools, and current projects are. I built a bearing block and rail router sled the same as yours in 2020 and it even has the same Bosch plunge router. Working on a live edge walnut coffee table with the center eaten out by ants which I filled with deep pour. I put a piece of melamine on the back without mold wax and it looked exactly like yours. Planning to backlight the void with battery led’s. Polishing table top epoxy is time consuming and too glossy for me so I normally use an oil finish like GF ArmRseal. Thanks to your video I think I’ll give shellac another try, very cheap and easy to apply and leaves a beautiful hard satin finish.
It’s it’s definitely a nice Finish. If I want extra protection I’ll sometimes put a oil based Polly over top of the shellac too! Thanks for watching!
@bruceburnswood 16:27 shop1620
Would the final coat of Poly be a good choice for a kitchen counter top made from solid wood?
I use almost the exact same process you do but using CA glue (medium) instead. Once Ive built up 10 or so layers I go through sanding (same grits essentially as you) and then do one last light home made shellac just to give that last layer of protection. CA glue turns into a plastic essentially and its crystal clear, no bubbles to worry about. Very easy to work with.
I’ve never even thought about using CA glue that’s really interesting.
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 Its a miracle solution for finishing imo. You basically get a paper towel, fold it over a few times, turn the lathe on slow and pour the glue while it turns > use the paper towel to spread it out even. Let it dry or use the spray, rinse repeat until you have a decent thickness > sand through your grits.
I use the sponge square set from Rockler that goes up to like 20k or something insane. I use a normal close quarter drill to sand up to 800 then switch to wet sanding using the squares.
When Im done if I want to make it just insanely clear and shiney I do one coat of crystal coat followed by a single coat of home made 1/4 lb cut of shellac. If you want actual directions Ive written it all out in detail and would be happy to email you.
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 btw, I saw it on people who turn pens. They use CA glue for pens and I figured it would work on a bowl or table top > and it did!
Wood turners use CA glue as cracks appear while processing the piece, as it dries fast and you can continue after a short coffee break. For bigger projects I would consider the price whether it would make sense. CA clue is great with sawdust when you need to fill something so small it does not make sense to use epoxy.
The tools in this video are something to envy 😅
A lot of stuff I did not know but now need, the leveling table in particular. Also drum sander that is open from the other end must be pretty handy (and expensive).
I’ve used it on duck calls it works great for that.
Sealing the wood surface helps alot before epoxy to prevent absorption, also when your melamine sticks like that a electric planer makes pretty quick work of it. As far as bubbles in the surface of your epoxy, a propane torch, 2-3" from the surface, keep moving in sweeping motions, after pour helps remove them, do this 3x with a few minutes between each.
Thanks all sounds like good advice I should definitely invest in an electric planer!
Can i ask you some questions?
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 just alter your router sled to accept thicker pieces and router it away. I do that on a CNC router but same idea
It was good to see honesty in regards to the work involved
Thank you!
The wood will release bubbles as the temp changes overnight and during the curing process which is typically exothermic (it gets hot) causing the air in the wood to expand.
Ya I should have kept coming out to check it. It just seems like a lot of the bubbles were so deep I wouldn’t have been able to pop them with a torch anyways. 🤷♂️
End grain is the worst for bubbles, you should shellac first then epoxy coat on top so the wood pores are better sealed. Or use a deep penetrating epoxy first to fully seal the pores on end grain there just straws that keep soaking up and by doing wether shellac first then epoxy or penetrating epoxy then table top epoxy you will waste less by letting the wood soak it all up and it won't weigh 100lbs lol but it looks great!
I agree. Since shellac can be thinned down so much you can really get deep into the grain and trap the air bubbles. Truthfully though, end grain is a bunch of straws designed to transport fluids. Dry end grain equals empty straws, not fun to prevent air bubbles from rising.
Ya I used deep pour for the first coat. Maybe penetrating epoxy would be better. I’ve never tired penetrating epoxy. But as far as the shellac goes I’ve heard that epoxy won’t adhere to shellac. 🤷♂️
Absolutely. It’s a pain to work with. I think shellac alone is the best solution for a finish.
As long as it's non waxed shellac and scuffed it wont have any problems adhering, shellac is such a versatile finish almost anything will stick to it includong epoxy. It would be great for this and it would seal thoes more softer areas as well. But penetrating epoxy will almost completely fix this issue aswell it's a very thin watery epoxy.
Agreed. I use vararhane wood hardener which is essentially a very thin epoxy for sealing and as it also hardens it expands in the end grain tubes or straws ensuring a complete seal resulting in no bubbles. You keep doing coats until it does not absorb into the wood anymore
I haven't done epoxy coated tables but have done a lot of mold making and casting. Pressure pots are good for casting under pressure because they smash the bubbles down. This makes them almost unnoticeable in the final product.
When I am pouring epoxy or using silicone I use a vacuum chamber to draw the air out of the liquid. It works better than making the bubbles small. If you only compress they just end up finding each other again and getting bigger.
I also agree with another post on here since you are using the pressure pot you should do the two passes at different times with the torch. You were likely compressing the bubbles down just before the pour and then over time they joined up and made the bubbles beneath the surface.
That table knocked my eye balls out several times before you even done the complete finish. Lol. Good vid and good work.
I have 2 suggestions. 1) First off, you need to hermetically seal the wood. I find sealing the wood with z-poxy first (as a pore-fill) will eliminate any bubbles originating from the wood. This may take 2-4 applications depending on porosity (sanding between). Shellac can similarly be used, but I have more faith in the robustness of epoxy. Zpoxy takes about 8 hours to cure (unlike the days for deep pour).
Then you need to make it perfectly flat. You have a drum sander and a festool -- shouldn't be an issue. But no end grain should be exposed before proceeding!!!
After that it's about the correct curing temperature for your finishing epoxy. This too WILL take multiple coats to get flat, but bubbles shouldn't be an issue.
That’s for the tips. What exactly is zpoxy?
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 Idk what zpoxy is but I use sanding sealer/shellac and rarely have any probs with epoxy finishes. providing temp and humidity isnt real high.
tell me about the waste .. and a bit of the environment
Was so glad you removed the plastic and used shellac. It made it look like wood again
I agree, I think the shellac makes the wood look better instead of the epoxy making it look like there a shiny force field around the wood lol
I use Super Clear deep pour epoxy. I de-gas with a vacuum chamber like you did but I only mix with a power mixer for 5 gallon bucket pours. Slow hand mixing almost like your making salt water taffy slow to prevent air from being introduced into it. Also it really helps to add a very thin seal coat to the wood before doing a thicker coat. It helps prevent those small micro bubbles. I have noticed any wood that has been either charred or laser engraved gives off even more bubbles and I sometimes will do two or three really thin seal coats before a deep pour or table top. Epoxy can be very rewarding. Kinda like sanding, you have to be patient and go though all the time consuming steps for it to look right.
Thanks for the info! I’ll have to try just hand mixing for small table top pours. What do you use for the thin coats? Deep pour or do you just thin out the table top with alcohol?
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 I usually just use deep pour for the thins seal coat. It tends to dry within 24 hours or less depending on conditions. I have never try thinning it down, seems like to much science for me and risky. I have used some of the casting epoxy like you can find at Hobby Lobby for small stuff and it dries in less than 24 hours but with a much shorter working time. Although Super Clear Deep Pour takes longer to cure it seems to give the flexibility of a longer pot time and fewer bubbles.
It was fun to watch you finish this and sand it... That was very patient indeed. I have never really gone past 400 grit and I have never used epoxy except for smaller knots and voids. I found this video very helpful as well as some of the comments. I agree there is a possibility the bubble came from the wood before the epoxy cured.
Thanks!
Instead of mold release, I just put Tyvek tape on the melamine.
Your end result is amazing!
Thank you!! And ya I normally do use one or the other. But I often start to rush and forget 😂
I think your best bet is to first, completely seal the wood. Then mix your epoxy and stick it in a vacuum chamber to remove the air before pouring. It may be a longer process, but it almost always guarantees a perfect result. Don't give up on the process, the results are definitely worth the effort.
That’s exactly what I did🤷♂️ 😂 maybe I didn’t know it well enough in the video. Anyways thanks for watching!!
@bruceburnswoodshop1620 really? Wow, now I'm totally dumbfounded. If you're able to figure out what happened, could you please make a video? I know more than a few people who would like to see it. Also, I didn't mention this in my other comment, but great video.
In the video you said you put it in a pressure chamber. So meant vacuum chamber?
The thing I was taught about epoxy is the torches' carbon dioxide draws the bubbles out, not so much the heat. So when we poured a bar top we had 2 people with torches follow the pour as we went. Spend several minutes with the torch, being careful to be close enough to draw the outgassing but not so close as to "skin" or burn the surface. We also used wooden paint stir sticks, which is a bit of work on a large pour.
Sometimes the wooden stirs can cause bubbles. Seal the wood on the sticks prior to using OR get some silicone stir sticks to mix the epoxy. You can also find silicone spatula sticks in the kitchen section (generally less expensive than looking at epoxy sites). Once the epoxy dries on the silicone you should be able to peel it off and they’re ready for the next project.
Denatured alcohol and a torch helps pull out air entrapment.
My experience with epoxy (I've used 3 different brands so far with same issues with each brand) is to do your seal coat, sand, another seal coat, sand, then a light flood coat, sand, another flood coat, sand, .... you get the picture. Each layer that I stacked looked better and better until I felt like it was what I wanted. Then I did all my steps of sanding up to a 3,000 grit and finished it off with a liquid 3M buffing compound and a top coat wax. Ceramic wax you used is perfect! A lot of work but satisfying in the end.
What a great informative video. The piece turned out great. I’m glad you showed the parts you didn’t like along with what worked. The color is great with that wood!
Thank you very much!
Hello. When you sanded your first sealing layer, the amount of sanding removed it's sealing capability.
After you began applying the finish layers, the micro-voids in the wood, had to give up air in spaces, the first couple layers drew out.
Seal the end grain more than moderately, and only use finer sandpaper lightly, so you don't "unseal" the grain.
Nice piece. Good luck.
Exceptional work made with patience and attention to detail.
Thank you!!
My husband and I have done 3 bars with live edge tops. We have had so many issues with the epoxy. Going to try making a small table using the shellac. Thanks for a great video!
It's beautiful! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Absolutely thanks for watching!!
Hey great video man. I think people learn most from watching the challenges makers try to overcome more than anything. I like that you weren’t afraid to keep it real and show your challenges.
Nice piece. I like it better with the shellac. Keep up the good work.
I just subscribed.
Thank you very much! 😁
I'm no expert on any of this lol but i really like the base you picked for this project. It suits that tabletop very well. Also Chat GPT says: "To remove air bubbles from epoxy resin before pouring, consider using the following methods:"
Warm Water Bath: Place the container with mixed epoxy resin in a warm water bath, not exceeding the manufacturer's recommended temperature. Gently warming the resin can reduce its viscosity and help air bubbles rise to the surface, making it easier to remove them.
Heat Gun or Torch: Use a heat gun or a torch designed for epoxy resin work to carefully apply heat to the surface of the resin after pouring it into your project. The heat will help to release and pop any air bubbles that have formed.
Mixing Technique: When mixing the epoxy resin, do so slowly and avoid introducing excess air into the mixture. Vigorous stirring can introduce more bubbles, so a gentle, methodical approach is usually better.
Degassing Chamber: For professional or high-precision applications, a vacuum or degassing chamber can be used to remove air bubbles from the epoxy resin. This method is highly effective and ensures minimal bubble presence.
Wow you know so much about coatings. Wish I did. What I have found is that when the wood is still raw, I can take my torch and evenly burn a thin top layer of it. The soft material between the rings burn deeper. Then I sand it down, vacuum well and continue to apply whatever steps I plan to use to finish it. This brings out such beautiful grain patterns and leaves a 3D effect. Try it on a little piece of scrap wood or lumber. You might like it too.
Finishing will drive us all crazy. I love making and using shellac but didn't know how to protect it to make it hard so thank you. I found some spray can lacquer that I do like and gives a great finsh over shellac. PRe Cat lacquer I found by Mohalk both in a satin and gloss. Great video Bruce. Thank you.
I also recommend a vacuum chamber. You may have to watch it closely when vacuuming so it doesn't foam out of the chamber. There are lots of tricks for using epoxy from the working time to humidity and temp to how to mix. Good video and well done..
If you want hard finish the 3M nano finishing process is by far the best on the market. It's expensive as shit but worth it.
@@itstimetounlearn Keith I searched 3m nano and didn't find anything, can you help me out as to exactly the name?
I use system 3 mirror coat with amazing results. just follow the directions. It takes around 3 times longer to pop the bubbles than you think. You need to go around with the torch and look in the light at every angle. You'll be surprised how many bubbles keep popping. They seem to never stop, but you'll get there eventually. Also to add that the first coat should be a very thin seal coat that cant have bubbles because its so thin and the second coat could be a little thicker. BTW I NEVER need a vacuum chamber or do ANY sanding or buffing after the final coat
That’s for the tips! I didn’t know about pouring thinner on the first coat! I’ll have to try that next time!
I love this, it's so nice! Great work!
Thank you!
If you use acrylic sheets you could build a giant vacuum chamber and pull the bubbles out while it's curing
You could. That’d be a lot of money in acrylic though
Putting mixed epoxy in a pressure pot does not help to remove bubble as much as placing it under vacuum does. The vacuum will cause it to foam up and all the trapped air will leave. If you are curring it, placing it under pressure helps to keep the bubbles small while curing.
I like the shellack finish better than epoxy personally. Great work!
I think I do as well. Thank you!!
16:27 @@bruceburnswoodshop1620I have always loved the amber hew Shellac gives to a piece of wood. Just curious how hard of a finish it provides compared to top coat epoxy?
Great job!
Nice job! Beautiful piece. I also like how you improvised with your tooling to maximize the small space available in your Workshop.👍
Thank you very much! 😁
Almost a year later and still looks good! Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
I would really check your shore D hardness on the table top vs casting resin. You could have stopped and polished the casting resin if you wanted to. If it’s that epoxy resin store stuff , I don’t think it goes much past 76 on the hardness meter for the table top. You could call Sean or rich and find out. Plus watch wooden. He’s like an Italian guy that does a bunch of cookies with resin. I think he just lets the Rubio soak in without the hardner.
Plus what’s worked for me is water popping the cookie first thing , then go at it with 60 grit on the orbital. I have like 5 20 inch or so cookies I need to get going on. The walnut comes out so dark though. I’ve been looking for some maple or hickory ones. Anyways good luck man. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. Hope your doing well.
That’s for the info I’ll look into that!
I really like your choice to go with the shellac. It's a beautiful piece of wood and the epoxy hides that natural beauty. I'm not a huge fan of the epoxy color in the middle. It looks really cool but for me it clashes with the wood. It's got a futuristic space look to it that takes away from the earthy organic look of the wood. Both really cool in their own right but together is not really flowing into one cohesive look. I think straight black would go nicer. But that's just like my opinion man, I'm def not a pro. Anyways overall it's a really beautiful piece
Thank you that’s really helpful and I agree! I think a more basic color like black probably would have looked more cohesive
Thanks for sharing the process and your honest experience from a place of humility and learning. Really appreciate this! Also learning to work with epoxy and man its a learning curve
Try mixing the clear coats by hand rather than electric mixer, also once it’s poured out go over with a heat gun or a torch to pop the bubbles left over. When adding color you can get away with electric mixing because the color hides the bubbles
power mixing is fine with solid colors, hand mix when its a clear job
VERY NICE Table!!
Quick question:
I REALLY like shellac.
When you were applying it, you put the 'thickest' down first, followed by increasingly diluted cuts.
Wouldn't you want the higher amount of denatured alcohol to carry the shellac deeper, THEN build up the % of shellac?
(Don't know if I made that as clear as it is in my head)
:-)
THANKS for a Great vid !!
That’s a good question, and to be honest I think the shellac is so this to begin with that it’s going to penetrate deep even with a more concentrated solution but I’m not totally sure. I just know if you start with a diluted solution you’ll never get about on for a finish. You’d have to do like 20 coats 😂
Hey if you have a vacuum chamber, put your epoxy in there after mixing to remove micro bubbles. The table looks beautiful! Great choice of pigment for the epoxy.
I love wood working.. I am hoping in my now old age that I can get a shed at some point and get tools so I can just make things for no reason other than to mess around and have fun
That’s pretty much what I’m doing as well. I agree, it’s a blast! Thanks for watching
What pressure chamber do you use and did you find it a hard process? Seems intimidating to me, just because so unknown. Is it truly worth investing in on to take your projects to the next level? Thanks!
amzn.to/3o7G8jB
This is the link to the one I bought. It works great super easy to use. I highly recommend. But it’s not absolutely necessary to get good pours it just helps!
Thank you for this! I've got an end-grain black walnut burl that is REALLY cool looking. I didn't know that I'd need to do deep-pour on the surface, so you just saved me a ton of time & mistakes.
Also, where did you get the base? That's really cool, & might work well for a furniture flip I'm working on.
Happy to help! I think if the gain is filled in shellac is definitely the superior finish; in looks and ease of application
The base of from Flowy line design on Etsy! It’s very high quality!
...really beautiful piece...very well done...!
I've watched a ton of epoxy/resin videos...I believe the use of the power tool to mix up the epoxy introduced air into the mix...if you use a long curing time epoxy, you should probably use a vacuum pot to remove the air bubbles from the epoxy...then pour it...
Other than that, it's still very impressive...👍
Matt
Thanks. I definitely think the mixing tool was part of the problem in addition to the wood releasing air
Personally I love the looks of a shellac finish. Then take it a step farther and learn a French polish. It just doesn't get better. There is a reason all the best furniture are not epoxy finish.
I think I’ve heard of that, it’s where you use steel wool to bump up the sheen right?
Shellack finishes for side tables or tables with a lot of use aren’t the best and are only used for show piece furniture. You will get rings and other finish issues when using it. It will always be sensitive to light solvents like alcohol as well. A good brush/wipe on poly would be the better “in kind” finish. The next step up would be to invest in a small spray gun and spray or brush on a better poly finish. 2 part poly finishes are readily available. Even a 2 part floor poly would work like Bona brand and it can be brushed on with a sponge.
Nice video, next time use one cofee filter for the epoxy resin
That’s an idea I haven’t heard before.
Some resin always has impurities that cannot be seen, you can only see it when it is dry.
Nice work! Just a couple things,wax paper works well as a mold release and i use a sealer on the wood until it stops soaking it up .I still have to baby sit the finish coat until it sets hitting it with a heat gun.Looking forward to trying your shellac
Hey Bruce thanks for the video. Nice technique and perfect flattening table.
The only annoying thing is the music playing in the background which I couldn't mute because I would lose your comments.
Thanks for the feedback this is exactly the type of stuff I want to know!!
1. Don't use deep pour to seal. Use regular epoxy
2. Don't pour globs to seal it, just brush it on.
3. Don't sand it and router it after sealing. Thet defeats the purpose of sealing as it's now raw wood again
4. Use a good epoxy, like stone coat, ecopoxy, etc. If you have to buff the flood/top coat it's not good epoxy.
5. Watch other people's videos. You did like 12 additional steps than you need to.
I've done several dozen epoxy projects from cookie slab tables like this, live edge bookmarked tables, root ball tables, bars, countertops, shower walls, sinks, even epoxyed 5 toilets. Is one the easiest and most forgiving products to work with. Just gotta educate yourself a little bit first.
when doing the pour, pour from a foot height, with a thin stream. degas the mix before pour, warm environment, heatgun, vibration, torch all help with having no bubbles.
Vibration is an interesting thought. They do it with concrete, might help 🤷♂️
A heat gun will help..and a fan so the epoxy does not heat yp too much and dry too quickly. There is a channel called stone coat countertops that has some great vids on epoxy..a clean controlled area is a must..
I’ll check it out thanks!
*Warning dont use epoxy* BUT YOU USED EPOXY
Did you watch the video? Pretty sure I used shellac at the end
It's called click bait. Clicked on the video looking for an epoxy alternative. "use this instead" All I see is a dude using epoxy then covering it with shellac.
@@cargasm383 He removed the EPOXY RESIN and replaced it with Shellac. Not click Bait at all.
@@madb132 I still see a lot of EPOXY RESIN. Title says "DO THIS INSTEAD" implying instead of epoxy use something else. The video shows him pour epoxy, remove a layer of bad epoxy with bubbles in it, then shellac over the remaining epoxy. I read the title and CLICKED on this video too see what to use INSTEAD of epoxy. I didn't want to watch an epoxy pour video. I was BAITED into watching an epoxy pour video. click bait. get it?
Truly a great video, I love the walk through, everything you did and what you thought during and after, its really going to help me on future projects.
Very cool video! I'm planning to do something similar with a slice of tulip poplar so glad I came across this. My only advice so far at 6:00 is instead of using the 60 yr trim and mold caulk to glue the melamine, to try some of that stuff they call something like "weather seal" that looks like 100% clear silicone but you can pull it back off of just about anything. Personally I wouldn't screw the melamine down either, I'd probably opt to just sit on a flat solid surface with the trunk slice on top of that with the weather sealant sandwiched in. Then just put down some heavy blocks on top of the table top. Shouldn't have any leak issues or trouble removing the melamine and sealant afterward, and shouldn't have any need for the mold release either. Look forward to seeing how yours turned out! 👍
Edit: "shouldn't have any need for the mold release"- except for directly over the melamine where the epoxy will rest of course- something I probably would have forgotten too had I not watched your vid😆
I’ll have to look into weather seal. Thanks for the tip!
Hi great video, I just did a white Agate table to with zero bubbles. You should seal the wood with a very thin layer of epoxy then wait 3 hours before doing the main pour. That is what I did. Greetings for Nigeria 🇳🇬
How gratifying and exciting to find someone else who, like me, just Can. Not. Get. A. Good. Finish. With. Epoxy. No. Matter. What. I. Do!
I'm building a small sailboat, and, for the life of me, I cannot get a decently smooth finish with epoxy.
Epoxy is a miraculously good adhesive, and for this purpose it has no equal. As a shiny, durable and smooth coating, there is considerable room for improvement.
It’s so frustrating 😂 thanks for watching
You should attach an uplight inside the base to shine through the epoxy centre.
My thoughts exactly, cheap led adds alot of flash, or upsale value as it were.
8:40 I have a Jet sander as well. It's been my experience that epoxy ruins the sanding roll and makes a hella mess of the machine and my dust collector. It also heats the epoxy making it pliable again. I switched to an angle grinder sander outside my shop. Makes a fine mess of me but saves the machinery.
Ya I just wanted the piece to stay flat so I went with the drum sander. I could have used my router sled but I didn’t want to remove too much material.
Shellac is great but should not come into contact with strong spirits. I had to refinish an end table where someone put a drink containing alcohol on the top that was finished with shellac. . I have used de-waxed shellac to seal a buffet because the polyurethane would form bubbles on the surface. I then put the polyurethane on top of the de-waxed shellac and the finish looked great.
Ya I’ve done that finish before as well! It is very beautiful! And a very durable finish!
That’s a great video, I loved it. Really liked the Shellac finish that was a good call…well done
Thank you!!
I've run into the same issues and given upon epoxy. Got it right the r.first time. Piece was flawless. But never again. Live the shellac finish on that. Epoxy color wasn't my first choice but looked good too.
One of if not the nicest "surfacing jigs" I have ever seen 5:30.
Thanks it works great!
Thanks it works great!
Beautiful piece the center looks like ice very cool
Thanks!!
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620
Your welcome
Beautiful looking table- I was wondering if vacuum bagging the piece would be possible and help eliminate bubbles like some do when glassing foam core paddleboards. Looks awesome though with the shellac finish. Thanks for sharing!
That’s an interesting thought. I don’t see why not? It would be interesting to try that out on a much smaller piece. But thanks for watching!
Before you sand the epoxy, try using a led light at an angle. Then if you see micro bubbles drill them out with a super small bit. After that use ca glue and black die or a dark color to refill holes. Then start your sanding and buffing process. Hope this helps.
If you did the top like you did the bottom, meaning sanding off the tabletop epoxy to the bare wood, you would've sealed the wood completely, which is necessary to keep more bubbles from coming out of the wood. Any layer of curing resin, no matter how thin, will increasing the temperature enough to draw more air out of the wood, if it's not sealed completely. It's a shame, seeing how much excellent work you put in.
That came out awesome! The center makes me think of Star Trek's City on the Edge of Forever.
By far, a great looking piece.
When you're buffing and sanding the epoxy, you're most likely building up too much heat. That will cause the finish to look bubbly. This same thing happens when sanding and buffing gelcoat.
Give this a try, after you get done buffing it and you notice the bubble looking finish, let the piece rest for a few hours or take another look at it the next day. You'll most likely see a difference after it fully cools off and the resin resettles. It can take epoxy to 100% fully cure for months and when you start sanding and buffing not long after you think it's cured, you're changing the physics of the resin when it's not truly cured out.
Also focus on how much heat you're putting in to the surface when you're buffing, maybe try 3Ms Gelcoat Compound system with a wool pad on your first cut, medium pressure at roughly 1200rpm.
Some folks don't, but maybe even sand all the way up to 5000grit or better.
Maybe this will help.
Keep up the good work bud.
Blacktail Studio has a workshop on epoxy- if you haven’t gone through it you may want to look into it- your table turned out nice!
Ya I’ve watched it, unfortunately, he doesn’t do an epoxy finish in the workshop.
@@bruceburnswoodshop1620 That is too bad- good luck in your endeavors 👍
I am interested in the skirt on the flattening sled to contain chips. Where did you get it?
They are brushes for a cnc I’ll add them to my Amazon links.
I just added a list on my Amazon that has all the parts for the router sled!
Your router sled is awesome! I want to build one.
Can you tell me what is the max & min thickness stock you can flatten?
This piece was 2 1/2 think I think my sled can go up to 3 but I can easily add risers to it to do a ticker piece.
And thank you!
The micro bubbles could be due to not having the wood sealed properly, but I’m not sure. I really like the color of the epoxy in the center, it was subtle and worked. Cool project man!
Great video. I feel your pain with the tabletop epoxy. In all honesty I am a TotalBoat ambassador, but I also struggle with the tabletop epoxy getting those micro bubbles not before but after the epoxy has cured. There are a lot of potential causes, including moisture in the wood, humidity in the shop environment, curing too quickly, or putting too thick of a layer down so bubbles exit the wood and have nowhere to go. It’s probably all of the above causes to some degree.
I am gonna have to check your shop out because Holy sh*t dude!that's a lot of work and I'd love to see how much you pay yourself. Just the supplies and tools alone. Figure in if you pay for the wood.....$$$$. My uncle was a well known wood craftsman so I know all that comes with the trade isn't cheap, although he started at a young age and built a shop. Full of probably tools they don't even make anymore and wood galore. He passed away Christmas 2 yrs ago, wanna say in his late 60s to mid 70s. My other uncle passed very young also an artist of anything he could get his hands onto, there's displays of his work in Minneapolis in a art museum... I 👏 you sir for your love of wood working and all the hard work that comes with it. Anything you made with your 2 hands deserves every penny you get. I'm a very amateur wood craftsman, artisan, pyrograph with torch and machine along with way more art that doesn't involve wood. There's no way I'm doing something like that 😂, the way you did it. I don't have patience 😂. Keep up the good work and always look back on past to create for the future, miigwech for the video 😊
Oh, and the shellac looks great!
Thanks!!
I've found with endgrain to sand the wood down to 320 grit first then seal the wood, my first seal pour I do depth around 2- 3mm so all the bubbles can rise then sand down. Do one more thin seal coat because there's always holes that keep drinking resin,fill them with super glue, sand 240 and then tabletop pour
a few things i found out help a bit... 1.} when I'm mixing epoxy i use two cups, stir slow by hand a bit, tilt slightly empty cup and pour slowly to the side of cup just don't dump in cup and I repeat two or three times this ensures everything's mixed also. 2.} i used very porous wood for my first attempt at epoxy. i dumped some old poly on wood to seal it and it worked fine but took a lot. i found no matter how careful you are some spots will sometimes just keep producing bubbles for some time. so after pouring just keep checking once in awhile for at least an hour after deep pour and run over it with torch or on low setting with a heat gun. 3 } mistake i made was never use color in top coat, especially metallic trying to match bottom layer something will show badly, it will never look right with color layer underneath. always use a clean container to mix topcoat and use clear or you're likely going to have strip it off and try again. 4.} don't use the cheapest, under powered orbit buffer you can get, spend a few bucks and get a decent polisher/buffer with some speed. 5.} patience is your friend sometimes a light sanding can remove that air bubble you missed and other times it can also reveal other defects, so good luck but I'd always try a light sanding anyway before just stripping and dumping more money into it unless i have to. 6 } i used top coat epoxy on both sides of my piece my thinking was which ever side came out better was going to be to top.
Shellac is so overlooked and under appreciated these days. A properly applied shellac finish, burning in multiple thin coats, is one of the best looking finishes available and quite durable. The majority of makers seem hung up on using resin or Rubio. Switch things up and give shellac a try on your next project!