Clutch Replacement (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2019
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In Part 2, we finish up the job by getting everything back together and adjusting the clutch pedal freeplay.
Here's a link to Part 1: • Clutch Replacement (Pa...
*NOTE*
We recommend you use thread locker on the flywheel bolts but not necessarily as a preventative measure to keep them from backing out but because the holes on the end of the crankshaft are "through-holes" meaning the holes carry all the way through to the other side of the crankshaft. The thread locker is to help prevent engine oil from being able to seep through the bolt hole threads. Now, how much oil could actually make it's way through the fly wheel bolts holes with the bolts installed? We don't know, but we suspect it's not really a big issue but something the engineers thought was a concern and decided to add it into the FSM instructions. We would use either Blue 242 or Blue 243. Red loctite would be way overkill in our opinion.
*You will find all the Torque Values, Parts Links, and Tools Links in the Part 1 video description* - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thank You for this video. I have a 2001 Step-side Tacoma 4WD that I bought on eBay with only 20k miles on it. I have babied it but it now has 105 k miles. I had to buy some tools for this, like the Tranny Jack, and I actually had to use my rescue ropes with 4 to 1 pulleys hooked between the transmission and the back of the truck and use another vehicle to pull the business end of the rope - it was waaaay stuck together (I put a thin layer of grease between bell housing and engine before re-installing, and did not replace main seal as it was not leaking at all). I had major problems with the top left bolt, but finally got it. I am retired and have had a heat stroke before, so doing this in South Texas Heat was awful, but...had it not been for your video I might not have made it through. I just test drove it after putting a new slave cylinder on it and bleeding (two person). The new clutch made a whole new truck out of it! Thanks so much!
Those tools will come in handy for future jobs. When we were trying to get the transmission fully separated from the engine, it was the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft that was holding us up. The bearing race was stuck onto the input shaft of the transmission. We finally got it separated when the pilot bearing broke apart. The pilot bearing race was still stuck onto the input shaft. I think we showed that in the video.
Yeah, the weather can have a positive or negative effect on the job. I've done many jobs in hot weather in my garage, but what we don't have is the humidity. It gets hot in California, but humidity is usually not a problem. This week in the California Bay Area, it's around 100 degrees.
Anyway, I'm happy to know our video series helped you get the job done. Good job! And, You're very welcome!
Timmy,
Killer video. I ended up changing out my clutch with ease (among other involved parts), couldn't have even attempted to have done it with out your comprehensive video. I even snapped off a stud head at my exhaust crossover after using copious amounts of PB Blaster and a torch. Although I had ordered extra studs due to your video, I decided I didn't want to spend the morning drilling and tapping out the crossover because of the impossible angle, and just installed a carriage bolt after drilling out the old stud. Speaking of studs...you are one! Thanks a million, your videos are my go-to when fixing my 99 SR5 taco!
Hey Jack, great to hear you found our video helpful and it gave you the necessary information to tackle this job on your own. I guess we're not the only ones who had a problem with those exhaust bolts. Good idea with the carriage bolt. Thanks for the kind words and being willing to take the time to comment. We really appreciate it. Happy Wrenching Jack!
If anyone else is doing this job on a 1st Gen Tacoma, you don’t have to remove the exhaust, you can get it clear while it’s still attached (you obviously have to remove the bracket that bolts the exhaust to the bellhousing)
@@jacobgibb maybe you can maybe you can't ... IDK!?
Can't explain how grateful I am for these videos. Just finished up my clutch job on my 99 tacoma. Great job Timmy! Keep it up
Glad you appreciate our videos Zach. Great to know they helped you out. Good job doing your clutch job on your own. We will keep it up! Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for all the detailed information on this project I've got a 2003 tacoma V6 4x4 and now that I've seen your video I'm off to do my tranny, thanks again, we'll see how much funny or frustration I have
You're welcome and good luck with the job. I suggest getting a friend to help.
Great video keep making more ! To remove seals I drill a little hole and then drive in a wood screw then pull it out !
Hey Jessie, we're glad you like the video. I have heard of the screw trick you mentioned to remove seals but I haven't tried it out yet. I guess you just have to be really careful when drilling and inserting the wood screw.
@@TimmyTheToolman try it, it works extremely well
@@burntkat I just might one day.
Just used this method today. Easy!
@@xz3r0r The only thing that still worries me about this technique is making sure you get any little metal bits wiped out of there really well before installing the new seal. If you miss one bit, that could be the quick demise of that new seal and a whole hell of a lot of work to get back in there to replace it.
Thanks for all your videos Timmy, I just bought a 1996 tacoma 6 cylinder 4x4 and I now know a lot about them watching most of your video. You are the best man, keep it up!!!
You're very welcome Jesus. Great to hear you're learning a lot from watching our videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, no matter what I'm working on, you've got it covered somewhere, even if it's an unrelated video. I'm not replacing my clutch, but the previous owner did three years ago, and he did not replace those two exhaust gaskets while he was doing it (and I happened to remember you covering it - around the 33 minute mark in your video when I watched it a long time ago). I've always had an unusual "fluff" noise (often after I've changed gears) that I've suspected to be related to those old gaskets never being replaced. Regardless, I'm replacing my starter, so I figured it would be a great time to take care of those exhaust gaskets since I'm in that same area. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get any kind of angle on that stud that broke off for you guys . I'm able to get a swivel socket on there, but I can't get any torque on it to get it off because of the poor angles. Thanks for any advice, and once again, these videos may have aged some, but they are still totally helpful!!
Buy some wobble extensions. They give just enough articulation in a lot of cases so you can get onto the nut or bolt without having to use a swivel.
This helped me a lot. Got my clutch finished :) love form Hawaii 👌🏼🤙🏼
Great to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for letting us know.
Just finished installing marlin crawler clutch kit with this video. you saved me a lot of time thanks man!!
That's great to hear Tyler. Good job doing the work yourself. You not only saved time, you saved a ton of money as well. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Superb video for the non professional mechanic . Not brushing over the little steps is what made it great. The helpful tips at the end were very important.
Thanks Roy. We create our videos with the absolute beginner in mind so nobody gets lost. More experienced DIYers or professional mechanics can skim through the video for clarification on what they need help with. Our videos are true step by step tutorials people can follow and be successful. This is what Sean and I pride ourselves in with the way we make DIY automotive videos. Nobody get left behind. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman solid!
Man, after watching this.., now I wonder if even the shops will do this properly without screwing up a step, or putting a wrong length bolt.
Even though they are suppose to be the experts, shops do screw up quite a bit. It's pretty common for mechanics not to bag and label fasteners like we do. The reason they don't is it takes extra time. So, they have a pile of fasteners in a common tray and they put the rig back together. I could never work like that. I need to be organized so I don't mix up fasteners and I'm not left with fasteners when I'm all done.
Thank you for explaining the metal backing!! I couldn't find anything about it until I found your video
You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment
“Can do a lot with 4 inches” LOL
Hey, you got one of my jokes. Good job!
@@TimmyTheToolman haha 👌🏼👌🏼
These videos are so valuable. I’ve used so many of them. Timmy&Sean you guys the grease gods to 4Runner enthusiasts lol but seriously when I see you at one of your backyard BBQ’s in the future I’m going to be bearing many assorted IPA’s. Sic Mods from 🇨🇦
Thanks James. We appreciate very much your kind words. We're hoping we can have a party this summer provided the restrictions are lifted on having large gatherings. I'll be looking forward to the IPA's.
Mr. Timmy you are the man. Nice video is very helpful for me because I have a toyota tacoma sr5 1999 truck and I have to do that job one of this day. Thanks for the video Mr. You save me a lot of money. 🙏🙏🙏
We're glad you like the video Luis. Nice to know you're saving money using our videos and doing your own work. Happy Wrenching!
2019 “You know you can do a lot with 4”, I do everyday” I miss your hilarious humor tim. I Definitely have to make a drive to San Jose again. 😂
You're the first to acknowledge that quote. I sometimes wonder if people listen to the stupid and funny things I say in these videos. You're proof people actually pay attention. Thanks Daniel. We're probably only going to have one party this coming year and I hope you'll be able to make it.
Timmy The Toolman well they are missing out. It was nice to make a pilgrimage out to SJ and to meet you and Sean. I’ll have to start preparing and bring some parts I don’t use anymore for the other 3gen guys to enjoy.
@@ndeeeed Ok, sounds good Daniel. It will be good to have you visit again,
Thank you, great explanation of your clutch job!
Thanks Chris. We appreciate it!
Great vid as always! I had the same damn problem with the same exact stud on the exhaust flange on my 99 Tacoma. No amount of oil pre-treatment overnight, beating, and stud exactors would even get it to budge. I even tried heating it to red hot then immediately freezing with liquid nitrogen a few times to get it to move. The only possible reason it would not move after all of that is because the threads of the stud literally welded themselves into to the flange. So then I pilot drilled it with an 1/8" HSS cobalt drill bit all the way through and then went out and bought a 11/32" cobalt bit and drilled it the rest of the way. Even then, with a paper thin shell left in the hole, I couldn't peel out the remaining threads. They were actually welded in place. I've been told it does happen sometimes, particularly when you have stainless steel involved, which the stud and nut are an alloy of. Finally, I got an M10 tap and tried to get the rest out and it actually did manage to cut the remaining stud treads out. I got all new studs, nuts, and some nickel based anti-seize because the copper and aluminium based stuff will actually make the stainless gall worse over time. Everything torqued up fine after that, you just have to reduce the torque spec by 20% everywhere you use anti-seize according to the instructions.
Thanks Jacob. We're glad you like the video. Nice to know we're not the only ones that struggled with that exhaust stud.
Yeah, it even broke off in the exact same place. Poor choice of materials by Toyota. I get that they were trying to make the studs and nuts more corrosion resistant but it actually ends up making many of their exhaust systems unserviceable. I have had this same problem with other Toyota and Lexus models that were made in Japan. The alloys they use for the flanges and studs are just not compatible.
I used loctite (blue/medium) on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Also, anti-seize on the exhaust and crossmember bolts since those had the most corrosion when I took them off.
I would say that was a smart move. Blue loctite can easily be broken free and gives you a little extra insurance from a bolt coming loose if you torque wrench was a little off and you didn't quite reach the proper spec. Anti-seize on the exhaust studs is something we should have done as well since the nuts do seem to always fight people coming off.
Great video thank u guys
Thanks Bori and you're welcome.
Great video guys great part to very informative
Thanks Antonio.
tim youre the man! cant tell you how much i appreciate you making these videos.....great job as usual!
Thanks Demien and you're very welcome! Great to hear you appreciate what Sean and I are doing. Happy Wrenching!
Up here in the northeast, I changed out those exhaust nuts with heavy hex brass nuts when the vehicle was new. Later, it was easier to work the exhaust system.
Thanks for the tip. You probably saved yourself lots of headaches doing that.
Timmy - old video I know, but wondering if there is any way to get feedback on how your buddy likes this clutch?
My T4R will be getting a clutch and transmission overhaul sometime in the next year or so and I'm researching what people like. Marlin comes up as king but options are good.
Thanks, and great job as always. The clutch adjustment really helped me when using your other video to rebuild my clutch pedal assembly.
I haven't heard anything from Dan that the clutch isn't operating well so I'm assuming it's all good and working good for him. Great to hear our videos are helping you out.
TIMMAY! hope your trip was fun. Its cold there this time of year.
I was wondering, are those shifter bushings the same for the transmission and the transfer case?
The trip was very fun. The shifter bushings are different for the transmission and transfer case. Check the video description of Part 1 and we provide links to those shifter bushings from Marlin Crawler.
Does the bread trick work if the pilot bearing is bottomed out in the housing, if there’s no space behind it?
With the bearing fully seated, there's a gap behind the bearing. If you look at the beginning of this video, you will notice that there's a seat where the bearing will bottom out on with a void behind that seat.
OK I am about ready to reinstall the transmission. Should I lube the tips of the clutch fingers where the throw out bearing actuates the clutch? You don't mention that in this video but I'm seeing it as a wear area on the old pressure plate which indicates potential for wear and noise.
That is not something we lubricated so I don't think the Toyota FSM called for it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Google search on several forums indicates not to lube it. It is apparently not a wear area, more of an intermittent polish due to the way it contacts
@@burntkat Good to know. Thanks for sharing this info.
@@TimmyTheToolman giving back what I can. I owe you a nice steak dinner.
Did you guys get the input shaft lined up first try? I’m trying to install the trans on my Tundra 2WD with the 4.0 V6. This trans doesn’t use a pilot bearing and the plastic alignment tool with the kit has a lot of play when you insert it all the way. I can’t get the trans to stab into the clutch disc.
We struggled a bit to get it lined up. When you finally get the trans close to the engine block, it's common that you have to pull that last 1/4 - 3/8" of a inch with a bolt at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions because the input shaft fits tightly into the race of the pilot bearing. In your case without a pilot bearing, it sounds like you don't have the clutch disk aligned right. With that plastic alignment tool, there is a little wiggle room. Eyeball that the clutch disk is centered in the opening on the pressure plate and try again.
Timmy The Toolman the original job was actually swapping my engine. My old engine was replaced and this the last big step. My whole body hurts! I’ll keep trying, didn’t think it would be this tricky and the tool that comes with the kit is almost useless. Thanks for your quick response! God bless you.
@@callofdutyguy9 You'll get it. Take a break and maybe get a buddy to help you. It is definitely a test of patience. I've now installed an engine to a manual transmission, and 3 transmissions to an engine, two were automatics and one was a manual. Every one of them was a pain in the ass. Just stay determined and you'll finally get it.
4inch PVC pipe might help to seat the rear seal?
Maybe. If you give it a try, let us know how it worked out.
I’ll be reusing my flywheels bolts, should I hit them with some loctite?
Yes, I'd put some blue 242 or 243 loctite on the threads. It's good insurance and it won't make it impossible to remove them in the future.
I'm looking at buying a T100 5vzfe 4x4 manual. I'm guess the process is going to be 98% the same?
Yes, it should be very similar.
Timmy, the last two weekends I’ve used your two videos to do my clutch when I took my transmission out I didn’t have the two top bolts and two on my access plate I trying to find the original size bolts but you said they may be different sizes and never showed the top bolts
All 4 of the bell housing access plate bolts are the same size. So, you would just have to take one of the two you have and match it up at a hardware store.
Timmy The Toolman yeas the access plate was missing bolts I’m also missing my two very top transmission bolts that you need a long extension I was wondering if they where the same size as the upper transmission bolts
@@michaelpeluso2654 I know the transmission bolt are all the same size and thread pitch and there are different lengths. You could just visit your local Toyota dealer and order those two upper bolts.
Timmy The Toolman sweet thank you very much Timmy it has been amazing talking to and watching your videos very detailed more should watch and learn from your videos only
@@michaelpeluso2654 You're welcome Mike. Glad we could help you out.
Lmfao you can do alot with 4 inches I do everyday omg bro lol love the jokes and comedy in all the new videos Timmy
Hey Antonio, you're one of few people that catch some of my humorous comments.
I'm at the last step, getting the transfer Shifter in. It feels like it goes right in, I can get the circlip and all seated, but I can't get it to shift the J pattern completely. Ideas?
It's a bit of a pain in the butt. I've found it difficult myself. See if you can get somebody to help you. One person holds the cup down while the other tries to get the clip in place.
Did you happen to replace the shifter seat with one from Marlin Crawler. If so, you might have done what I did and kept the flat rubber disk from the original OEM seat under the marlin crawler seat and that makes it impossible to get the clip in place. Remove that flat disk and put the Marlin Crawler seat in solo and you'll be good to go. In this video, th-cam.com/video/gCHSRcq-LP8/w-d-xo.html go to play time 42 minutes 16 seconds and watch until 43 minutes and 21 seconds. Then go to play time 48 minutes and 36 seconds where I discover that flat rubber disk was keeping me from getting the clip in place.
@@TimmyTheToolman have the worn-out bush still in there. New ones on the way. I was able to assemble it without issue, but it wouldn't shift the transfer case.
@@burntkat Start the rig and then try to shift it.
4” plumbing pipe or unions for same. I happened to have some shorts for fixing a drain and needed something big for a seal😂
Yeah, whatever you can Macgyver to get the job done.
So does this installing goes same for 99 Tacoma 3.4l v6 model? The flat side of the clutch disc facing the transmission? Thanks..
It should be. The clutch disk is usually marked too to tell you which way to install it.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you, I purchased the clutch from the dealer and it doesn’t have a sticker which is a bum. I forgot to look at the old one before I removed it now I’m stuck tryna figured which way it goes lol
@@kaosaephan6303 I don't even think protruded section of the clutch can fit into the fly wheel but maybe it can.
I have a question if I just buy a new fly wheel from advanced.. Or auto zone do I need to be worried about it being balanced? Was the original a balanced flywheel?
Yes, fly wheels are balanced. I would buy a quality fly wheel and I'm not sure if auto zone qualifies as quality.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks For the info. I thought so just was not 100% sure. If I had the the extra in the budget I would have stuck with Aisin from toyota. I almost used the original one In the truck because of the quality and power torque from O'Riley was off by one mm... Word to others that may be replacing manual transmission parts if your not doing any special off roading stay oem mine has lasted 300,000. Just saying. I am a true believer in o.e.m quality.
@mattp2130 You're welcome and we agree that you can't go wrong with OEM.
Awesome job on the reassembly Tim! learned quite a few tips when replacing that rear main seal also I wish over here we didn’t have rust/corrosion I would love to wrench even more I already do but the majority of times I’m working on a car I’m swearing my ass off because I can’t get certain bolts off for the life of me lol I apply penetrating fluid heat with a blow torch and nothing they strip/round off it’s aggravating fuck rust
Hey Edwin, that was my first time replacing a rear main seal. I was surprised how firmly it was stuck in there. That little Lisle seal puller wasn't up to the task. I'm glad I had that other seal puller/installer kit to use. Some people say they drill holes into the seal and then insert a wood screw to pull the seal out but that would make me more that a little nervous that I would screw something up.
I feel for you guys that have to deal with lots of rust. I know without a doubt that would take a lot of the fun out of it for me by having to fight frozen fasteners that end up stripping or breaking.
Timmy The Toolman I haven’t replaced a rear main seal myself but yea I’ve heard of that truck with wood screws but that is risky for sure lol having the right tools for the job is always great specially on big projects like that
@@edwinthetechnician6578 Yeah, I've learned people can be pretty ingenious and MacGyver all kinds of things but drilling into a seal next to a crankshaft, camshaft or whatever isn't something I'd do unless it was out of necessity and I couldn't get the right tool for the job.
Another great write up. I have an 02 Tacoma with 255K and the pilot bearing has been going out for awhile. Now I'm hearing a slight grinding noise as soon as I press in the clutch a little. Not so much when fully depressed. Any ideas on that other than start getting the parts list ready :).
Also I'm guessing this would be a good time to change out the front O2 sensor. The clip for it is on top of the transmission and a bear to get to. You get to it from the inside after you take the shifters out but need still need little kids hand to reach it. I'll probably hire a reasonable priced mechanic on Craigslist and supervise the operation using this video as a guide. I've done that before on more difficult projects but I'm sure they get annoyed when I bark out the torque specs.
Yeah Larry, sounds like it's time to just remove the trans and get the job done. Yes, it would be a good time to replace the O2 sensor. Too bad you don't have a buddy that could help you and you avoid paying someone to do it for you. With someone helping, this is a pretty straightforward job to do provided you have the necessary tools to pull it off.
@@TimmyTheToolman A word of warning. I bought the Aisin kit from Rock Auto and I believe the clutch disc is mislabeled. There is an inscribed T/M which I assume means transmission side but I believe it is actually the flywheel side. It is on the raised side of the clutch disc which was inserted into the flywheel side on this video. There is also mention of this in TacomaWorld forums.
@@schadlarry how is this riding for you two years later? I had obscure noise issues for 40k miles on my rig that nobody could diagnose because they could not hear when diagnosing. Turns out pilot bearing was wearing a nice groove on the input shaft when it was finally disassembled at 341k
@@efil4kizum Everything seems okay. I've put about 30K on it. Just flushed all the old clutch fluid out using the gravity method.
@@schadlarry sounds great! after my rig got its first new clutch and a rebuilt R150F from Yota1 (sent to Chicago for replacement) my rig developed a fuel consumption issue that I am trying to diagnose why. before repairs historically i would get 360 miles on a full tank of tacoJuice... now it barely can get to 300 miles on the same full tank ( a drop of 3 mpg) and under similar driving conditions. This has gone on for 7k miles now!
would you have any idea what would be a root cause for this? there is NO CEL light triggered and no codes came up when it was scanned at the dealership. I really do not know what to do about it. I did put a new air filter in and changed the original PCV valve and hose. the old valve still rattled but not the rattle the new valve had. I changed that because I noticed oil vapours coming out of the other PCV side (drivers side valve cover) that does not have a valve, just a hose that goes directly to the intake tube before entering the throttle body
cool
We're glad you think so.
Wish me luck, doing this job on my tacoma starting tomorrow. Buying a transmission jack from HF then getting to it
Good luck Jorge. Get a buddy to help you.
@@TimmyTheToolman got my dad and cousin, thanks!!
Jobs done! Went pretty smooth all things considered. Had to replace a starter, electrical connector, hydraulic hose for the clutch while at it. Starter is from O'Reilly (due to time crunch) hopefully it lasts. Most importantly no injuries besides bruised knuckles, head and elbow hahaha
@@jorgebarboza8051 Good job getting it done. That's a big job.
@@jorgebarboza8051did U hang on to OEM starter and put new contacts onit?
OEM reman clutch cover pressure plate (31210-35210) is currently on backOrder until February-2o24 i was just told by Yota parts department... WHY? is this part on backorder
WELLLLLL, since I'm not a Toyota parts seller that stocks pressure plates, let me give my best educated guess. It probably has something to do with the fact that they are most likely made overseas and there's some type of delay in their manufacturing and transport to the U.S. But, I bet if you do an online search for that part number, you'll find someone who has it in stock.
@@TimmyTheToolmanit is mid April now and STILL this OEM part is on back order
18:37 ... Is it possible to have the throwout bearing to be riding too much on the pressure plate fingers, if the install was not upto snuff
The throw-out bearing can only be installed correctly. There's no partially right. You either get it installed right or you don't and you have to pull the transmission again. So, it's best to get it right because that's a lot of labor to repeat.
@@TimmyTheToolman so that is where my confusion rests with the 'clutch adjustment' part in the manual. what exactly does it do? I was thinking it would adjust any tension the hydraulic are putting on the fork that is pushing the throwout bearing onto the fingers while in neutral or in drive mode... kind of like riding the clutch pedal?
after the Yota1 R150F install a couple months ago I have a noticeable noise whilst in neutral that goes away when i press the clutch FULLY to the floor. I called Nick at Yota1 about it and he said it sounds to him the throwout bearing is riding on the clutch cover fingers.
recently I found another UTube video with a similar noise and the poster started twice that his noise was found to be the input and countershaft were bad, they were replaced and the noise went away.
so I am very confused about this ordeal 8^{ and just do not know what to do!
@@efil4kizum Have you adjusted the clutch pedal free play? I'm thinking the pedal is adjusted too tight and the throw-out bearing is resting up against the fingers of the pressure plate all the time.
Nick inspects the input and countershafts when he rebuilds them, so I don't think that could be the issue, but who knows, anything is possible.
@@TimmyTheToolman i will have to make the assumption that the Toyota/Lexus specialist shop that dismantled and put the truck back together knew what they were doing and did things by the book to proper spec.
However! after the unacceptable amount of slop and damages found (after i got the truck back home during the late winter) on other old worn-out taco parts i also had this specialty shop put new Toyota parts in the confidence level took a serious nosedive 8^{ ... it runs like crap now, burns fuel but does not burn oil that i can detect.
I have to take time off and take the truck back to Chicago shop next week to get it sorted out and things redone to spec.
I wish I had but unfortunately I do not have the proper neck, back mobility to be getting into these tights spots underneath the truck. plus the knee injury i had shoveling snow in January will not heal and got re-aggravated trying to pick up small objects from the ground.
these types of maintenance repairs might or might not be easier to DIY if i had the truck off the ground high enough that i could sit in a chair underneath and wrench away with the use of both hands. But then I am really not sure about that either with the neck issues and inability to reach forward with both arms. So I am stuck with having to pork out literally thousands of dollars to the highly-paid pros to keep my rig in tiptop and cross the fingers that they DO NOT slop stuff back together which happens more often than i feel it should.
Do the job right the first time by the book and these issues with having to come back for a redo is much less likely. That has and always been my motto.
now I feel i just wrote a short novel LOL, thank you for your time reading this!
In closing, I will see what the Toyota/Lexus specialty shop has to say about this noise in neutral, hopefully then can hear it, the surroundings must be very quiet (cannot hear it in traffic at a stop light) or I maybe looking at having to wheel it the 1700 miles to Yota1 shop and have them take a listen and inspect things out while there is 8 months of warranty time remaining
@@efil4kizum Well, I hope it gets resolved for you. There are good shops with good mechanics, but there's also dishonest shops with incompetent mechanics. Like I said, I sort of doubt the the problem is on the Yota1 side. Nick does great work.
Did you have the flywheel resurfaced or just clean it up?
Dan bought a new one. All the parts are listed in the video description.
Are these flywheel better or different than OEM labeled flywheel?
fwiw - I had my original flywheel machined and all is well.
@@ppeterson9359 how many miles were on your flywheel? My flywheel came out looking nasty like crusty after 341k miles and 26 years in snowy humid climate
@@efil4kizum 275K in the mild PNW. I’d probably abused it some in the last 6mo since I was having to start up in 2nd gear.
I love these videos. Currently replacing the clutch on my 99 Tacoma that I bought new. Over 300 K. Fly wheel and pressure plate look great but I will be going all new anyway.
curious about all the commentary on the cleaning of the flywheel but no mention of the new Pressure Plate?
Take care spraying brake cleaner in the engine compartment. Brake cleaner destroys rubber and plastic, as in seals on pilot bearings... Better to spray on the cloth instead.
It's the clutch connection to the fly wheel that is imperative that it's free of contaminants so that it will not damage the clutch material. The pressure plate just applies and releases pressure on the clutch. Thanks for the brake cleaner tip.
Those improved main rear seals are prone to leaking. Go figure
Really? How do you know this? Any documentation?
Are they Toyota parts or aftermarket?
Did you not use threadlocker on any of the clutch cover or flywheel bolts? The Exedy kit I'm putting in calls for Loctite 262 (red). I am thinking this could make future work a stone bitch.
You should use thread locker on the flywheel bolts but not necessarily as a preventative measure to keep them from backing out but because the holes on the end of the crankshaft are "through-holes" meaning the hole carries all the way through to the other side of the back of the crankshaft. The thread locker is to help prevent engine oil from being able to seep through the bolt hole threads. Now, how much oil could actually make it's way through the fly wheel bolts holes with the bolts installed? I don't know. I suspect it's not really an issue but something the engineers thought was a possibility and added it into the FSM instructions. But, this is something I learned recently when doing the 3.4 liter motor swap video series. I would not use red loctite though. I would use either blue 242 or blue 243. Red loctite is way overkill.
@@TimmyTheToolman OK, I am literally doing the job now, so thanks for the timely response. Blue loctite on the clutch cover as well?
@@burntkat I don't think the FSM specifies anything for the pressure plate bolts but it couldn't hurt using some blue loctite on those as well. Basically blue loctite could be used for any fastener without negative results.
Given the amount of trouble you had removing the transmission bolts ( steel bolts in aluminum) I am surprised that you used no neversieze. Remember, the next guy just might be you
That's a fair statement. Sometimes in the throws of battle, which we were in, you forget things like this. We were on a serious time crunch to finish the job and get Dan on the road back to Kirkwood which is around a 4 hour drive from my house in San Jose. We finished this job at around 10pm and Dan had to get to work the next day. So, give Ol' Timmy a break for forgetting to apply anti-seize to those bolts. It was pretty low on my priority list when we still had a transmission on the ground with a ton of more wrenching and filming to do.
@@TimmyTheToolman Not beating on you man, just was surprised as your work is great! Also, the aluminum will literally weld together with the iron because of the dielectric circuit setup between them in a wet/hot environment. Would copper neversieze help to stop this? I will soon find out...
@@bslturtle Yeah, I didn't take any offense. It just sometimes makes me scratch my head when the only thing somebody can say about a video is one small detail we forgot. My response is often this, "Ok, I agree with what you said, but what about the rest of the video? Did you like it? Did you find it informative?" Nobody is perfect and we all make mistakes. I learn a lot from people commenting but there is a thing called Tact. It's the way the message is delivered that can make all the difference. For example, what if you said this instead. "Hey Timmy, Sean and Dan, great video. I thought it was well done and I learned a lot. There is one thing I'm wondering about though. Given that you endured all that misery with breaking off those 3 bell housing bolts and having to drill and retap the threads, I'm surprised you didn't put anti-seize on the replacement bolts to make a future removal of those bolts easier." See the difference? Anyway, I can tell you're not trying to be a jerk. As a TH-camr, you have to be thick-skinned but that doesn't mean we have to take shit off people either. Your comment was very tame compared to some we've got. Lots of A-Holes have been erased from our channel. They can comment, but nobody will every see what they write. Anyway, I think the anti-seize will work. It's too bad the Toyota engineers didn't think of this way back when. Take Care and Happy Wrenching!
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Got the LuK kit. The clutch disc that came with it is labeled “flywheel side” on the flattest side which by the look in Chiltons or Haynes AND your video is wrong. Driving me absolutely bonkers. Hope the clutch disc is labeled correctly 😵💫. One side of the disc has more mechanical not grit mass than the other. Assumed the more mass side went towards flywheel.
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 Maybe call the company to confirm.