Thank you for this video, clear wiring schema diagram. A on top topic for me. Besides riding a bike is the self maintenance and upgrading (a little) a extended hobby of mine. :) Questions: - Where and how in the bike main fusebox/pannel did you connect the wire in relation to the ignition connection? - When ignition on your extra fuse box has power and when ignition off than there is no power to your fuse box. Correct? I need also a few more power take offs for some accessories on my 2004 Deauville. Most for more safety. Like running lights and i like the dashboard with four option install on your bike. I have also some other ideas i want in time, to install DIY and with cost (budget) concern in mind: - A solution for warning lights with a clear indicator, it is not standaard on a Deauville 650. - An extra led (strip) break light at the rear, to use with and without the back topbox (not integrated in the top box). - I am thinking extra led turn signals on the back an a bit around maybe of the side cases. - May be some turn signals on the front/side similar like yours. - I am also thinking on a charge connection (usb-c) for a smartphone that is still on when the ignition is off. - And in relation with a nearby smartphone holder, i am looking for that also. I am not sure to put that on the steering bar or the dashboard on the rightside, like you did. What is your advise / input to placing the smartphone, where? I am not an electrician either. It is sometimes a bit scary to maybe short circuit someting especialy when you are on the road for daily traveling to work. But like you say in your videos, it is also not that difficult and think the logic good true. Make a drawing, make the logic visual. I like your approach for SAFE central wiring and will install it similar like your solution. I am looking for parts now. And stuff for sealing it all and use good connectors to keep it dry, rain can sometimes get everywhere. Use connectors on smart places to disconnect when some maintenance must be done. To make accessories easy to reconnect/connect. Left side wiring is negative - and right side positive + We can of course put wiring with fuses on all accessories independently but than there are on very diffenrent places round the bike little fuse boxes on difficult reachable places. I too googled around and found some information. There are also a lot of wrong examples. Short cuts for wiring that involve risks. The optimate charger i have also like yours connected directly to the battery and i keep it that way. There is a little fuse box already standard in the wiring from the charger and the optimate charger have also safety protocols build in. A fuse box install as close as posibale to the battery is good practice, is what i understand. There is than less wiring with current flow when someting short circuit. That is also what you did. About A amp relay unit this wil protect what comes next after de positive current flow. Like a safe switch before the switch. A faulty switch for example can burn out wiring and cause a short circuit and in worse case that can lead to a fire. It is than good practice to install a amp relay unit before the switch in this example. Ofcourse is also good to buy a good switch and accessories waterproof/resistant for use on a bike or boat. To add some things to the wiring puzzle and to think about. For what i understand, for main power streams it is wise to use thicker wiring then to the last end to the accessorie. Thicker wiring let put through more and at the end accessorie draws more, amps than thin wiring. It depents what a accessorie needs. Nice example: th-cam.com/video/WoIKtipdpDI/w-d-xo.html There is also some concern how mutch volt you drawn from the battery and how mutch volt the bike loads to the battery. Then of course It also will depend on how mutch current the accessorie wil be using with peak performances. Add alle accessories to gather, uses must be under the amount than what the bike will add to the battery. There must be a surplus in adding volt when riding at certain rpm. Nice explenation in this link: th-cam.com/video/I1x0vb7jat0/w-d-xo.html About de fuse box on the negative -. I am not sure if that is necessary. A centrale box for connecting negative - wiring is still very usefull next tot the postive + fuse box. It can may be a bit harmfull when the negative - is not connected. It would not blow the positive + but it still will pass currents. May be you found if there is an other reason why it may by necessary. It is not criticism from my part, is for me about understanding the why and the safety necessary. That is the way i am wired as a person :) and to share it with other DIY bikers. See in link a found with some explanation i think is true: electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/445740/does-it-matter-if-a-fuse-is-connected-to-the-negative-or-positive-terminal-of-a There is also al link to a online circuitlab: www.circuitlab.com/editor/#?id=7pq5wm&from=homepage (My reacation became quit a story - I am not native english speaker so there might be some wrong text spelling or sentence building. I hope you can read through them...) With kind regards, Ronald (The Netherlands)
Wow what a comprehensive comment.... The main fuse box for the bike is behind the right hand pull off panel I tapped into fuse 3 which is only a 5amp fuse but it's enough to trigger the relay I installed. The fuse blocks I installed do indeed turn on/off with the ignition. Reference adding extra brake lights an easier way may be to tap into the actual brake lines on the rear under the seat cowl and run some qyu k connects or auto style plugs so you can easily plug them in as required if mounted to a top box. Accessories use generally very little amps with the exception of mega watt lights. If I turn of my lower set of lights I get 14.2 volts at around 1500 rpm but if I turn on my 60 watt mega lights I see 13.7 volts so they use 0.5 volts to power them. If I have my phone plugged in my satnav running heated grips on and all lights I can see around 13.3 volts. My battery volts are steady at around 12.8 volts with nothing on and no engine running so I have some charging capacity there. Using an optimate I have never had an issue with charging. Reference the wiring you are correct that the larger wires should be closer to the source so I used 3.5mm on the battery side of the relay and 2.5 mm wire the accessory side of the relay but when you consider my megawatt lights only use 1.0 mm wire so I have o er compensated hugely and therefore I should never have any issues with fire risks etc. I think I've Co ered most of your points but by all means ask if I've missed anything and your English is good so know worries. Glad you found these bids useful and I too enjoy fixing my bike too... Well most of the time I do 😂
Re the phone holder I decided to place on right speaker panel as after mounting my satnav on the bars I would of been restricted for room. The speaker panel phone mount was easy to mount by making 2 small holes in the panel and securing with nylic nuts and bolts. I have my phone connected to a t max blue tooth headset and I wanted it in my eye line whilst riding so I could choose to answer a call or not whilst riding
I wired all my accessories which didn't have automatic cut offs or fuses to the oem accessory fuse which is for the speakers, super simple and no wires under the saddle. Room for more tools!
@@Pooley650 absolutely. My 5ank bag is a permanent fixture and it has puncture repair kit, compressor and a full toolkit I have made up Also cable ties and the most important item in any toolkit... Gaffer tape 😂
Thank you for this video, clear wiring schema diagram. A on top topic for me.
Besides riding a bike is the self maintenance and upgrading (a little) a extended hobby of mine. :)
Questions:
- Where and how in the bike main fusebox/pannel did you connect the wire in relation to the ignition connection?
- When ignition on your extra fuse box has power and when ignition off than there is no power to your fuse box. Correct?
I need also a few more power take offs for some accessories on my 2004 Deauville. Most for more safety.
Like running lights and i like the dashboard with four option install on your bike.
I have also some other ideas i want in time, to install DIY and with cost (budget) concern in mind:
- A solution for warning lights with a clear indicator, it is not standaard on a Deauville 650.
- An extra led (strip) break light at the rear, to use with and without the back topbox (not integrated in the top box).
- I am thinking extra led turn signals on the back an a bit around maybe of the side cases.
- May be some turn signals on the front/side similar like yours.
- I am also thinking on a charge connection (usb-c) for a smartphone that is still on when the ignition is off.
- And in relation with a nearby smartphone holder, i am looking for that also. I am not sure to put that on the steering bar or the dashboard on the rightside, like you did.
What is your advise / input to placing the smartphone, where?
I am not an electrician either. It is sometimes a bit scary to maybe short circuit someting especialy when you are on the road for daily traveling to work.
But like you say in your videos, it is also not that difficult and think the logic good true. Make a drawing, make the logic visual.
I like your approach for SAFE central wiring and will install it similar like your solution.
I am looking for parts now. And stuff for sealing it all and use good connectors to keep it dry, rain can sometimes get everywhere.
Use connectors on smart places to disconnect when some maintenance must be done. To make accessories easy to reconnect/connect. Left side wiring is negative - and right side positive +
We can of course put wiring with fuses on all accessories independently but than there are on very diffenrent places round the bike little fuse boxes on difficult reachable places.
I too googled around and found some information. There are also a lot of wrong examples. Short cuts for wiring that involve risks.
The optimate charger i have also like yours connected directly to the battery and i keep it that way.
There is a little fuse box already standard in the wiring from the charger and the optimate charger have also safety protocols build in.
A fuse box install as close as posibale to the battery is good practice, is what i understand. There is than less wiring with current flow when someting short circuit. That is also what you did.
About A amp relay unit this wil protect what comes next after de positive current flow. Like a safe switch before the switch.
A faulty switch for example can burn out wiring and cause a short circuit and in worse case that can lead to a fire.
It is than good practice to install a amp relay unit before the switch in this example. Ofcourse is also good to buy a good switch and accessories waterproof/resistant for use on a bike or boat.
To add some things to the wiring puzzle and to think about.
For what i understand, for main power streams it is wise to use thicker wiring then to the last end to the accessorie.
Thicker wiring let put through more and at the end accessorie draws more, amps than thin wiring. It depents what a accessorie needs.
Nice example: th-cam.com/video/WoIKtipdpDI/w-d-xo.html
There is also some concern how mutch volt you drawn from the battery and how mutch volt the bike loads to the battery.
Then of course It also will depend on how mutch current the accessorie wil be using with peak performances. Add alle accessories to gather, uses must be under the amount than what the bike will add to the battery. There must be a surplus in adding volt when riding at certain rpm. Nice explenation in this link: th-cam.com/video/I1x0vb7jat0/w-d-xo.html
About de fuse box on the negative -. I am not sure if that is necessary. A centrale box for connecting negative - wiring is still very usefull next tot the postive + fuse box. It can may be a bit harmfull when the negative - is not connected. It would not blow the positive + but it still will pass currents.
May be you found if there is an other reason why it may by necessary.
It is not criticism from my part, is for me about understanding the why and the safety necessary. That is the way i am wired as a person :) and to share it with other DIY bikers.
See in link a found with some explanation i think is true: electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/445740/does-it-matter-if-a-fuse-is-connected-to-the-negative-or-positive-terminal-of-a
There is also al link to a online circuitlab: www.circuitlab.com/editor/#?id=7pq5wm&from=homepage
(My reacation became quit a story - I am not native english speaker so there might be some wrong text spelling or sentence building. I hope you can read through them...)
With kind regards,
Ronald (The Netherlands)
Wow what a comprehensive comment....
The main fuse box for the bike is behind the right hand pull off panel I tapped into fuse 3 which is only a 5amp fuse but it's enough to trigger the relay I installed. The fuse blocks I installed do indeed turn on/off with the ignition.
Reference adding extra brake lights an easier way may be to tap into the actual brake lines on the rear under the seat cowl and run some qyu k connects or auto style plugs so you can easily plug them in as required if mounted to a top box.
Accessories use generally very little amps with the exception of mega watt lights. If I turn of my lower set of lights I get 14.2 volts at around 1500 rpm but if I turn on my 60 watt mega lights I see 13.7 volts so they use 0.5 volts to power them.
If I have my phone plugged in my satnav running heated grips on and all lights I can see around 13.3 volts. My battery volts are steady at around 12.8 volts with nothing on and no engine running so I have some charging capacity there. Using an optimate I have never had an issue with charging.
Reference the wiring you are correct that the larger wires should be closer to the source so I used 3.5mm on the battery side of the relay and 2.5 mm wire the accessory side of the relay but when you consider my megawatt lights only use 1.0 mm wire so I have o er compensated hugely and therefore I should never have any issues with fire risks etc.
I think I've Co ered most of your points but by all means ask if I've missed anything and your English is good so know worries.
Glad you found these bids useful and I too enjoy fixing my bike too... Well most of the time I do 😂
Re the phone holder
I decided to place on right speaker panel as after mounting my satnav on the bars I would of been restricted for room.
The speaker panel phone mount was easy to mount by making 2 small holes in the panel and securing with nylic nuts and bolts. I have my phone connected to a t max blue tooth headset and I wanted it in my eye line whilst riding so I could choose to answer a call or not whilst riding
For not being an auto electrician, you made that all very easy to understand :)
Thank you mate I work on the principal if my Mrs can understand it... Anybody can 😂
Very helpful thank you
Your welcome
I wired all my accessories which didn't have automatic cut offs or fuses to the oem accessory fuse which is for the speakers, super simple and no wires under the saddle. Room for more tools!
Fair enough I have my heated grips wired in to the Acc and I needed a few more power take offs so I figured that was the best option for me
And anyway it's a deuville you don't need any tools haha
@@biker1k my heated grips have a cutoff and are fused between the battery 👍
The old philosophy of; if you take it, you won't need it 😁
@@Pooley650 absolutely. My 5ank bag is a permanent fixture and it has puncture repair kit, compressor and a full toolkit I have made up Also cable ties and the most important item in any toolkit... Gaffer tape 😂
@@biker1k no tool kit is complete without it 😁