Safe Engine Flush Using Diesel Gasoline
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2024
- Flushing your engine might be a good idea at 100,000 miles. Just realize, diesel gasoline is a harsh chemical that eats away at gaskets and oil seals, as well as the oil sludge you're trying to remove. If you add enough diesel and let it soak for a long enough period it will eventually dissolve all those black, tarry deposits clogging your oil passages. At the same time, it will eat away at rubber.
So be safe. If you've never flushed an engine before, why not buy a safe commercial brand and follow the directions printed on the label? Usually, the only cars that need their engines flushed are ones that have not been properly maintained with regular oil changes. I regularly flush the Saturn featured in this video yet, for all the flushes I've done, this vehicle has never needed new oil seals or gaskets.
I used to flush with diesel but I did it different; I would drain old oil and add straight diesel then start the engine and let it idle for one minute. I would then wait for twenty minutes with engine off to let the diesel get into any sludge etc. I would then restart the engine and let it idle for another minute then shut engine off again and wait another twenty minutes. I would then restart for one minute, shut engine down and drain the diesel then add new oil and filter. Waiting the two twenty minute periods allowed for the sludge to breakdown and come out/off. I found this system worked well with no noticable problems.
Diesel has No Engine protection additives.
You let Run Diesel Like Mineral oil as Base oils with Low Sulfur (more Sulfur would be better as at older additives and Mineral oils the Engine protection is Sulfur based).
Additional friction via Paraffines. That's all.
If you do Not have Ester oils recipe in use the additive Package let Stick the Engine protection additives on the Metal surfaces. With Diesel you wash them away and even Cover the Engine protection layers created, with something the fresh Motor oil need to Work on.
Addinol offered Flush oil for years and decades and now offers one of the best Maybe the best Engine Flush Treatment.
If your Car has a egine with ACEA A3/B4, API SN, ... 5w40 Spec Give the
Addinol Super Light 5w40 with API SP, MB 229.5, VW 502 00, etc. a chance.
The cleanest engines got Addinol.
I flushed my turbo twin airplane with diesel fuel then I loaned it to my ex-wife and her pilot husband to visit his mother in Florida. It made it to Arkansas before the engine seized at 12,000 ft. Good Job and thanks for the tip. and I don’t care if you do call it Diesel gasoline.
Lol
seems it worked and they are happy now lol
Lol 😂
Lol
Jaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
I've been flushing engines with diesel for over 50 years, always good & never ruined anything. The old red ATF worked well and so does Marvel Mystery oil. Too many people who complain about the results were trying to resurrect a shot engine looking for some magic, then blame the diesel or whatever solvent they tried in desperation.
How would you know if it’s shot before you try?
@@bet6467 Engine oil pressure low when it's up to temp is one way to tell.
@@modarkthemauler thanks! Oil changes are going good and everything seemed to be getting better, but just got that warning light- would it come on after getting sludge out and be bad?
@@bet6467 No idea. The low oil pressure meaning a engine might be worn out is from older cars that still had gauges that showed oil pressure.
@@modarkthemauler ok thanks!! I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
I bought a used Porsche with about 55,000 miles on it and took it to an oil change shop that offered a heated solvent oil flush that filtered the solvent through a large pleated white filter that was connected where the oil filter was. I was able to watch the solvent go from its original clear color to a brown color as it dissolved away sludge and deposits from the engine. After that I had a fresh oil filter and some cheap conventional oil of the proper viscosity put in that I ran for about a day. After that I changed the filter again and then put in high quality full synthetic(Redline) oil. The engine ran like a champ for over 150,000 more miles, using very little oil between oil changes.
Dear Mr. Jim Nesta.
Hai Sir...,
I'm from India,
I own a Volkswagen POLO Diesel Engine Car.
It has completed 40.000 Miles on Road.
(2013 Year Car)
I maintain the vehicle with utmost care.
(Change the Engine Oil regularly for Every 10,000 Miles)
Now the car is due, for Engine oil change.
Do you suggest, me to Flush the Engine, for better performance.
Please advise me.
Thanks & Regards
🙏 Prasad reddy
@@prasadreddy5421 Hari Bol Prabhu,
I would be more than pleased to offer whatever suggestions that might be of help.
With the low mileage on a later model car, on which you've done regular oil changes, I would guess that the amount of sludge buildup is minimal, unless you happen to see sludge under the valve cover when you remove the oil filler cap. I would not waste money on that procedure now, although it certainly would not hurt the engine to do it.
I believe that your money would be better spent on going with more frequent oil and filter changes, despite the factory's recommendation of 10K on the interval, especially since diesels are inherently dirtier running engines. Use the best quality filter you can find and prefill it with oil before installing.
One good thing you can do is to have a used oil analysis done on a sample of oil you've taken from oil you have drained at oil change time. There is an American company called Blackstone labs that will mail a small oil catch bottle which you fill and send back to them. They then do a chemical analysis on the oil and give you a simple plain language summary of the results, how the engine is wearing and the condition of the oil. It's an inexpensive service that can give you the best information and advice on selecting a good oil change interval.
I hope this information will have been of help. Please accept my humble obeisances.
Your servant,
@@videomaniac108
🙏 Jai Shri Krishna 🌹
Hai Jim Sir.,
Thanks for your reply to my question. 🙏
Please kindly, send Email Id of BLACKSTONE Company, who is doing Used oil Testing.
So that, I can get it done,
Thanks and Regards
🙏 Prasad reddy
@@videomaniac108 Thank you so much Mr. Jim Nesta 🙏
Jai Shri Raam 🌹
If he’s calling it diesel gasoline that should tell you something
Μήπως εννοεί το παλαιότερα λεγόμενο "καθαρό" ή "φωτιστικό" πετρέλαιο; Δεν ξέρω αλλά πολύ περίεργα μας τα λέει ο φίλος!
SAY WHAT ^?
Agreed. I heard of this method but not this incorrect term
If hes using fram filters that should tell you something.
kostas dramoudanis yep he’s an idiot
Can’t say I’ve done this in petrol cars, but my diesel Passat wagon and ducato motorhome have had a diesel only flush done every 3rd service. Passat only has 110,000km on it (66,000 miles roughly) but the motorhome over 280,000km. I only run the engine for a minute or so, not 5, then drain overnight and new oil and filter next day. These used to be dirty diesel engines but now take several thousand km’s before the oil turns black, where it used to happen instantly. Not sure on petrol engines as they seem to run clean, but for diesel engines my father taught me this trick to prolong engine life and it’s worked for him, and seems to be treating me well
Thx for mentioning that flush is rough on seals & gaskets. Not everyone knows that.
That’s a baaaad idea if it could cause gaskets and seals to leak in future which will lead to more expensive repairs in the future.
that means, over caring for your vehicle will still damage its engine... im planning to do this on my motorcycle which has properly maintained by frequent early oilchanges...if i do this one i might damage the seals as well as the engine..thanks for this video sir.. by the way..diesel helps me clean the chain and engine easier..added with dish soap liquid ofcourse
Rough on bearings too
Always add a couple quarts of cheap oil when you do thisto prevent damage.
Iv used this method for 20 years, , with high mileage cars and low mileage, leaving the diesel in the motor up to a week for a full thorough clean, results are amazing. , motor wise, very quiet and more responsive, , ........
Well when you start driving something other than a Tesla, no more quiet.
Thank goodness, I'm glad I tried doing it first and yet read all the comments. My engine run's so smooth and saves my gas alot.thanks you
I've flushed out multiple high hp engines with diesel fuel with great results. The diesel will break down the sludge,not clog oil passages as most commenters are suggesting. Remember,the diesel fuel shouldn't be in the engine for more than a couple minutes. Drain and then flush with fresh oil 2-3 times.
thats expensive. why not use engine flush oil instead of two fresh oil.
@@johnson3 A gallon of diesel is $3 here.
wtf....just change the oil. fck!
add a liter of diesel.
run the engine for a minute.
drain
put diesel
run the engine for 45 seconds to a minute (idling at 700 to 750 rpm)
that's already clean.
drain
use air compressor and blow to drain diesel(with dirty oil) further
put drain plug back
put new oil. (best if synthetic)
Even the top end flush like liquimolly smell like deisel or kerro
After draining the diesel and oil mixture, I would have added another couple of litres of fresh oil to flush out any diesel fuel remaining in the base of the sump just to be safe
Nah, that just an on-going, permanent flush cycle.
I fully agree with your flushing video using diesel fuel. Years ago I was driving a Pontiac Grand Prix with a 400 cubic inch engine. I was cash poor and only changed the oil occasionally, never before 10,000 miles But every other year I flushed the motor with 4 quarts of Diesel and 1 quart of fresh Pennzoil I then added 5 quarts of straight 30 weight Pennzoil. I drove the car 465,00 miles without any kind of engine failure.and never had the heads off. To this day I still use Pennzoil, but now with my PTGT ( turbo) I use 5 30 weight oil ( factory recommended viscosity ) It is a 2003 model with 184,00 trouble free miles.Thanks for sharing...Mr. Randolph.
It's okay folks. It was only a Saturn. How much more damage could it cause?
^ valid point
I had a friend who loved her Saturn.
Actually it has a toyota engine in her
wow. her and the 50 other people that own saturns? @@riceburner4747
Better to pour the diesel gas on the outside of a Saturn. Then light and call your insurance Co.😊😅
After flushing the diesel/oil mix, you MUST then add the minimum amount of oil to safely run the engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Then drain that oil. This will assure that ALL of the diesel fuel has been drained. If you don't do this extra step you will have too much diesel remaining in the crank case and throughout the engine. Then when you add the final new oil the viscosity rating of that oil will be changed in a very negative way and during the next few thousand miles you will be slowly damaging and wearing the bearings out in the engine from that lower viscosity. You will not have the proper protection if its diluted with that left-behind diesel fuel from the first flush.
Correct
add some of the oil additive like Wynns super engine charge its thick .no need to do a second oil flush
@@francisbegbie1008 ....bad idea. NEVER add anything to any oil, ever. No oil additives. This is a suckers product and manufacturers love that people buy it to make the customer THINK they are helping the issue. If your engine is not running right, burning oil, or making noises....then fix the mechanical issue the engine has and then use the correct oil. There are no band aids when it comes to oil.
@@2ndAmendProtector Features & Benefits of Wynns Super Charge Oil Treatment
Stops excessive oil consumption
Strengthens the oil film, especially at high temperatures
Restores engine compression
Increases the oil pressure
Quietens noisy engine and reduces exhaust smoke
Provides a perfect lubrication of heavily loaded engines (e.g. when towing a caravan, in the mountains, on the motorway, at high temperatures, etc.)
Improves engine performance
Is compatible with all mineral and synthetic, single- and multi-grade oils
Does not harm catalytic converters
@@francisbegbie1008 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA......anyone who believes adding something to oil restores COMPRESSION is a moron. Compression loss is a mechanical breakage or wear issue. Increases oil pressure, YES SURE, so will adding honey, its just changing the viscosity to make it thicker. Higher oil pressure is meaningless without OIL FLOW. Ignorant people buy this garbage. PATHETIC that in the year 2022 there's still these joke, worthless products on the market. As long as theres ignorant people, there's garbage snake oil products.
I see alot of negative comments about flushing an engine with diesel fuel and I can guarantee you this works. If you have a neglected engine with sludge or your oil had water or coolant enter the oiling system, this is the way to go. I've been doing this for years on marine engines.
@@janisb5522 my comment is not referring to normal running engines dude.
I did a diesel flush on a Subaru 2.2 with a ticking lifter. Worked like magic (yes 2.2 had hydraulic lifters )
Essentially a 4 wheel motorcycle
I have done this on a diesel car, and the result was good, no problem at all, I recommend this type of flushing, it is really harmless in my opinion.
I worked with a man in the 70s that did this same thing with kerosene,, drained the oil,, filled it with kerosene.. ran it for just a couple of minutes .. drained that and then re-added oil .. He said when the kerosene was drained it looked like the oil that had just come out.. so I think your system is just fine.. and youre the first person to repeat this except using diesel fuel..
Most diesel sold at the pump today contains a certain low percentage of biodiesel. The biodiesel improves fuel lubricity that is lacking when sulfur compounds are removed during refining to meet clean air standards. The biodiesel, essentially methyl esters, is a powerful but non volatile solvent that breaks up grease and sludge very well. Too well, in some cases, ask in when large diesel ferryboat fleets switched to high biodiesel blends and then experienced rapid clogging of fuel strainers and filters, leading to engine shutdown from fuel starvation.
That doesn't change the fact that running 3-4 quarts out of 5 total isn't going to trash some peoples engines.
My '04 Ford Escape developed a loud, very noticeable ticking sound after it warmed up. One needs to understand the inner components working in an emgine. In my case, as well as many other vehicle brands, lifters are designed to operate in an independent manner between valve openings. There's a small port opening on the side that gets covered up upon required use of the lifter to open the valve. If that port becomes plugged from sludge (failure to change oil and filter at regulate intervals, or sediment contamination from outside source), the lifter can be stuck full of oil (solid lifter) or won't let any oil in at all, creating what's called, a flat lifter. There are many products on the market that help clean and flush the engine internally. All contain the same desired chemicals. Solvents and or detergents. Whatever the differences of these product solvents and detergents are is irrelevant. Their performance is what matters. Marvel Mystery Oil is a great engine cleaner. Use exactly as directed. In the case of my Ford Escape, my mechanic (Very trustworthy, capable and reasonable guy) told me to add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine, on top of the oil already In the engine. Start and run (at IDLE ONLY) for 30 minites. Drain the oil and remove the filter. Put new oil in and new filter. Drive for 100 miles. Change oil again. Within 5 minutes of the engine warming up, the lifter noise disappeared. Transmission fluid has excellent lubrication and detergent properties. I have not had a problem since. Using diesel fuel in the manner and quantities described in this video is safe. As with the transmission fluid technique, run the engine at IDLE ONLY. Don't rev it up. Don't drive it. Otherwise, everything the method he used is perfectly acceptable. The best method overall is to use high quality oil, high quality filters and change them often. Brand new cars under warranty should be changed regularly by the dealership. After warranty, continue to change oil regularly and flush at least once a year or so. With whatever technique you feel comfortable with.
use engine restorer additive
@ConsensusX You probably have problems finishing tasks at work, too. It's OK. That's why there are mechanics.
Unknown to me, my engine was sucking transmission fluid into the engine. I drove it for weeks with a mixture of transmission fluid and oil. Didn't seem to hurt it...
@altpotus6913 Transmission fluid being sucked into the engine sounds like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions once used vacuum to shift. I honestly couldn't tell you if that's the same on newer cars, as everything is going to sensors and computers. So I would have to think there's a leak in the transmission, allowing transmission fluid to be sucked up by the vacuum of the engine. That leads to it getting directly into the cylinders and being burnt off. It won't hurt it. But in the long run, you'll spend more on adding T fluid and the T not operating at full, designed capacity. Which may affect longevity.
@@MNJay1 I agree. Transmission fluid was sucked into the engine via a faulty vacuum modulator, but I didn't see any smoke. However, the engine oil level kept increasing and had a decidedly red hue. I unplugged the line from the carburetor to the modulator and the problem went away. I also was able to stop adding fluid to the transmission. Go figure...
What ever you say guys, But his Saturn is in Great condition!!!
Thanks. I have been using 50 50 diesel + oil as flush for years. So I get half diesel mixed with new oil to make it good flush then once flushed drain and refill with synthetic.
Will this method work for gasoline bikes 110cc
What I do during oil changes is that after the oil stops dripping, I will pour 1/2 quart of fresh oil to push any remaining old oil in the pan and it works.
great advice. safe and cheap. thanks.
Total waste
Engine Restore is safe if you closely follow the directions. Frees up sticky valves and piston rings.
Most of this is common "Old School" tech, and hardly needed today.
In the 60's, detergent oils had come of age, but nothing close to what we have today. Engine flushes were the norm for engine longevity.
My grandfather maintained all his fleet of logging trucks, heavy equipment and personal vehicles by flushing regularly.
And yes... he did this with straight diesel fuel.
As others have commented, he let an already warm motor idle (and ONLY idle) for about 5 minutes, then drain, replace the filter and refill with fresh oil.
I could see this still being used if you bought an older engine of unknown condition and wanted a maximum flush, but most oils today do pretty good at cleaning on their own, and synthetic more so.
it is worse today due to low tension rings. Only a little sludge cause them to stick in piston lands. The rings have lower friction and a tad better gas mileage. Not worth the trade off. Check you dipstick and if your oil is getting dark change it regardless of 2000 mile or 10,000 miles and won't have to worry about flushing (which won't work for stuck rings too late)
My grandpa explained to me that in automotive school he was taught 2 different ratios of diesel : engine oil you’d run after draining the original oil and before adding the new oil during an oil flush. It wasn’t straight diesel but the first was 3 parts diesel 1 part oil. Then half and half, idling for about 20 minutes each time. Then your new oil and filter. on an old engine he said that would have your dipstick reading perfect golden oil for the next 50,000km
Best bet to add 1/2 a qt or a full qt of marvel mystery oil or transmission fluid to the oil about a few days, up to a week worth or 100 to 500 miles of running the engine before you change it then just change it like normal. Can do this every oil change and it will keep your engine squeaky clean on the inside. I change oil and filter every 5000 to 7000 miles and have been doing this for many years. I've got a little over 400,000 on my Dakota with original engine and no rebuilds, and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes and it still runs good. I've used different kinds of engine flush in the the past, including diesel, and found that MMO or transmission fluid, either one works best.
That's the best way I'm sure..your plan works best. And not doing any harm!!!
Just any old atf right?
@@joemoore8421 yes sir
my dad retired from GM after 30 yrs. he did this exact same thing. the weekend before the next oil change he added 1 qt of atf to the engine. check the stick to make sure its not overfilled. run normally for the next week. the following weekend change the oil. every single time we drained the oil, it was darkish amber with a little reddish tint. engine was an olds 308. never a problem, never rebuilt, ran great for 500k+ miles until he sold it. took the valve cover off a time or 2 to make sure the valvetrain & rockers were tightened properly, and that was the cleanest top end ive ever seen. pristine. atf is a good idea, diesel fuel not so much.
@@wilsoncrocker Would you recommend doing this to modern commen rail diesel engines?
Sure, I’ll listen to a guy who thinks “diesel gasoline” is a thing.
idiot its a fucking mixture of both
Robert Prefontaine what is a mixture of both?
@@jasonbeatty4108 god you really are an idiot. It was first shown to you in the actual video then, this fella tells what it literally is and you still go ,,what is mixture of both". Sorry mate I hope you just young, otherwise not much hope for you. I'll try my 3rd time lucky: it's a mixture of diesel and petrol poured into crankshaft case to thin out the soot, then drained and then theres fresh oil poured in. Do you understand or should I go Latin?
@@lipeeno try it yourself and you tell us how it worked out for you...and how many times you had to change oil afterwards.. I would not put any FUEL in my engine crankcase...thats just stupid... any why do they not do it anymore...why is it not a "thing"... it does more harm than good... that "soot"...might as well be fine sand...
You like'em educated, that smooth high class talk is what makes you complaint 😂😂😆
Flushing a enging is only for people that have ocd. It's not like rinsing your bowl that you had soup in the night before to get it cleaned to put your cereal in the next morning. I have cars and trucks that have 300,000 to 400,000 and a semi truck that had 1.3 million. They never had one diesel flush. Why put something in your engine that if you ran it long enough it would blow up. The two best things you can do if you want to keep a motor clean. One is to add one quart of ATF to your oil a couple hundred miles before your oil change and also make sure you change your oil on a regular basis . 3000 miles or less. Don't use synthetic oil. It's a waste of money. When they tell you that you can go over 3,000 Mi it's bs. Just because the oil is a little bit more durable doesn't mean it's going to get dirty and contaminated any slower😊
I didn't see any sludge coming out? I thought that fresh oil was gonna get all dark with all of the sludge but it came out clean, something is wrong
Marvel Mystery Oil and Diesel together might be an ultimate combination. I usually put one quart MMO in at every other oil change. It keeps the internals clean and working perfectly without ever having to flush the engine. It’s done well for 30 years of me doing this.
i run mmo every winter.
Marvel mystery oil isn’t anything but kerosene fragrance…
@@lawrencefranck9417 that’s ok. It lubes, cleans, smells good, great on salads, doesn’t burn the eggs. What more could you want. I did ad lib a little, BTW. 😱
I don’t know. It’s a Mystery. -VGG
MMO begins to burn after 3000 miles (official information). You have to change your oil every 3000 miles.
Good practice for a dirty motor. Cheaper and better than motor flush which is too weak due to liability purposes. After doing this, on refill of oil substitute 8oz of Seafoam or 32 ounces Marvel Mystery Oil (or any transmission fluid) will further clean the motor between 4,000 oil changes.
Some oil screens are accessible thru the drain hole with a toothbrush. Not a bad idea to scrub it and then fill pan with additional clean diesel thru the dipstick hole and mildly flush out the bottom of the pan and screen.
Some of these remarks. They clueless.
I've used both, and while I liked them, they are both almost kerosene derivatives. Very light, volatile oils with some naptha/kerosene type refined products.
If you can't afford $15 for a decent flush product, but are willing to risk catastrophic engine failure to the tune of thousands of $$, then yes, just run a 5w oil in your vehicle that normally has a 30w or 40w....
I actually saw someone flush a Isuzu engine using straight diesel fuel . All I can say is it worked for my friends dad . He drove the little truck everyday for a few more years .
Ask him if the diesel fuel has protection for the camshaft and lifters.
the fat frog you forgot the right term diesel gasoline!
I run my car on LPG. It is incredible how clean it burns. The engine is bright shiny clean inside, like when it was new.
0 to 60 in 3 minutes
You will tell us when your valves burn out and a head gasket or the whole head cracks. You cook on gas, work on diesel and drive on petrol. My experiment on gas destroyed an engine within 10000km. And that was mercedes. So only some engines work with lpg. But eventually they all go with a bang.
THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO DO TO EXTEND ENGINE LIFE IS TO DO VERY REGULAR OIL AND FILTER CHANGES. NOTHING ELSE.
Well said.
Thats not always a fact in EVERY engine .
Not true. You should see all the solids and carbon that came out of my engine after 6 months driving and only 3000 km after flushing with bg 109 also a major performance increase
This tard re-use the oil filter, what u expect
@@mustardncress1 Flushes leave your bearings bone dry. Scoring your rotating surfaces for a few seconds before proper lubrication. If you have carbon build up, your pcv valve may need to be replaced or you dont drive long enough to get your car up to temperature.
I used to do the similar method, where i used to drain the old engine oil, fill the engine with Diesel and then half crank the engine not letting it start for maybe a second or half and then used to drain it and blow the high pressure air from input and have it remaining diesel and vapors comes out from drain plug and then pour the new engine oil and change oil filter. Never faced any issues, engine used to run light.
Was told by old fella years ago, never ever flush any motor gear box or hydraulic system with diesel, it will clean and flush , but it will destroy your seals if not completely removed.
The fact that you’re using a FRAM filter tells me everything I need to know. #garbage
Fram is the cheapest option
Show me one engine failure due to a fram filter. Or, just be a parrot making noise.
@@freddyflintstoned913 right 👍
@@chief5981 lol I don't eat beef.
That tells me, you don‘t know a lot about Cars. Frau Filters are Made in the same Factory as Mann and Bosch. They are made by Freudenberger, a german company. Bit the factory is in Romania.
Ok so, do not do this.
I work at a vehicle dismantling company. We sometimes use cars that come in for a month or two before they get scrapped. I tried this on an old engine which had an oil pressure gauge. Before and After the flush it had 20psi at idle. Not too bad, but before the flush revving past 2k would read 50psi. After the flush revving to 2k stayed at 20psi.
Now it did eventually rise back again after a couple of days and about 100 miles. And after 500 miles the gauge suddenly dropped to zero. We took the engine apart and all the dirt cleaned by the diesel was blocking the oil pickup.
Not to mention diesel eats rubber for fun.
So if you want to kill your engine. Flush it with diesel
There is a product called WYNN'S ENGINE TUNE-UP. Put it in your oil follow the instructions. A 5$ product developed by a reputable company. You could also used seafoam, MMO, among others. Only use stuff that is compatible with motor oil and does not destroy it. If you can't drive with the stuff in the crank case don't put it in.
Peter B. I used it also it worked great in 440 roadrunner,455 Buick ,1.6 tracker and my 2004 3.8 Grand Prix and small block chevys , or I added pint of diesel night before I do oil change every 1or 2 years and use a good quality filters and oil and change synthetic every 6000 -7000 km not 20000 km that not being your own ex-spent
Sea foam can be used as a flush. Directions are on the can... it will not damage seals.
Good method if you're trying to clean a really dirty engine. If it's not so dirty I'd recommend flushing the engine with regular oil, meaning just change it more frequently
lets all pause for a moment at :06 and admire that Diesel price of $ 2.85 .... RIP
Another fine example of the statement " OK video maker, poor mechanic."
Scotty Kilmer would not approve this.
Yep, do NOT rev up your engine! 🤣👍🏼
🤣
Lol
This is an *e n d l e s s m o n e y p i t*
@@MattExzy *t h a t s. j u s s s t h o w. t h e y a r e a s s s t h e y age*
in the 70 and 80,s we just used to buy a cheap oil and run the car on that for 100 miles then change it for premium oil.
And that cheap oil is good to use again for flushing at a later date.
I still recommend the flush you described, and then use it for another flush or put in my old clunker or lawn equipment.
Many moons ago when men were men and goats were nervous, I did this on an Onan 2 cylinder air cooled engine. The result was that it needed a rebuild thereafter. I'd sooner do an extra oil change in between the scheduled oil changes and flush the engine that way, much safer and kinder to the engine
FYI-for a more relaxing time, give the goats a little chamomile tea. Its smooth sailing after that!
Honestly this is bullshit most any engine suspected of negligent oil changes but running ok could ever need is:
1. Drain old oil
2. Remove Oil pan and oil pickup tube.
3. Brake clean the fuck out of Oil pan, pickup tube and pay special attention to the mesh on pickup tube.
4. Put everything back together with fresh seals and gaskets.
5. Fresh oil + fresh oil filter
6. Drive as usual for 1000km
7. Fresh oil + Fresh oil filter
8. Continue a oil change interval the manufacturer recommends by the book, but ignore it if recommends more than 10 000 KM - Change oil at least every 10 000 KM
Comments and people are so stupid ! Flush the engine with diesel is a wellknown practice. But people prefer to buy "THE" product sale in the best shop of their town and this product will transform their engine in a very good caramel !! :-) Nice video dude.
well known where? Diesel "fuel" is not for flushing anything.... better off using kitchen oil. What is well known young man is transmission "fluid"!...
Best way to plug up lifters and scar up bearing journals is to use diesel "fuel"... that carbon that flakes off of piston tops where removing a head off of a engine...is the same thing that happens in a crankshaft oil passage when a cleaner is used in any combustible engine
@@jotegg1276 I have used diesel many times in the same way. When four wheelers get flooded with water. I flush out the water with diesel.
Motor flush is diesel so your right
Engine flush is diesel.
A friend of my husband has always used diesel to flush the engine on his 10 year old Jaguar with no problems.
Diesel Gasoline? That's what is used to burn field toilets in the military and also used by agencies that do prescribed burns in overgrown forests.
Scotty Kilmer will love this
I flushed my old vw golf with new oil and just 0.5 liter of diesel. Ran it att fast idle for 15 min and the oil was really dirty afterwards so I guess it worked. The loud valve ticking also disappeared.
I use a similar procedure to bring back to service a marine engine that had beed flooded, I use WD40 instead of diesel fuel.
Without turning over the engine, I flush the crankcase and I fill with half and half mixture of oil and WD40, I start the engine and let it run idle up to normal operating temperature, I repeat the procedure with a mixture of 1/4 WD 40 then I change the oil filter and reinstall normal oil.
that has well served me up to date
I'm no mechanic but 1 thing for sure - it's impossible to fully drain a modern engine, there are nooks and crannies that always hold. See any disassembly video - stuff on the floor, maybe a few cups. That diesel is going to be in your oil for many, many oil changes ahead.
I'm quite secure that if u remove the oil pan there is still a lot of dirt
I watched my grandfather pour straight coal oil in his cars and drive it about 2-3 miles. He didn’t take any oil out but added the pint of coal oil. Said if the tappets weren’t ticking you didn’t do it long enough. Run it out hot. He said that he learned it working on a farm driving tractors. He also said that the tractor he drove was struck by lightning with him on it. Burned all of wiring off and broke the globe to the shut off filter. They left it there and worked around it.
"diesel gasoline"... this guy is a marketing genius. I mean look at all the people who took time out of their lives to watch AND comment!
I really want to say bad stuff. I'm leaving now.
Ha ha . Yes. Thats how I feel sometimes. Take the path of least resistance and watch some funny videosinstead.
I'm with you I'm leaving this channel
Me too from ph..
Don't trust those ramps to not collapse. You need steel jack stands for better support. Other than that, good work.
I did this on a 4 wheeler that went a lot too deep. I filled the crank case completely and drained it a couple times before I brought it to proper level and actually ran the engine. I also flushed the diesel out with oil until it smelled normal.
I was thinking of doing it this way too. Did these flushes seem to remove a lot of sludge?
@@vanamee692 all the water for sure. The bike was still new.
Did this guy just put a mix of gasoline and diesel in his engine???
Just be careful NOT to plug the oil pump pick up screen. If engine oil is changed frequently there is NO need to flush an engine.
Just go synthetic. Change filters at quart add. No sludge, ever.
Yea that just happened to me I brought the glove with me and forgot to do the glove test on the car that I bought. So now I'm not sure if i should take out the PCV or do the flush first.
@@mysticwine 👍🏽 synthetic was designed FOR engines, conventional oil works in engines. Huge difference
Well flushing the motor also keeps its longevity though. No matter how frequent you get em, you still get a residue and grime left over, just very very little. But obviously that can build up over time too.
الديزل لايضرر المحرك !
I had a mechanic tell me that a little sludge in the engine is not that big of a deal. You can drive over a 100,000 with a little sludge and it won't hurt the engine. If you flush the engine and clog up the oil pump screen that vehicle shouldn't be driven even a 100 feet. Time to remove the oil pan and repair it! In 1988 I bought an old 1978 Chevy Monte Carlo, which was my first car. I just started changing the oil every 3,000 and that cleaned a lot of stuff out. A worn-out timing chain was the biggest issue I had to deal with. A worn-out timing belt or chain can destroy your engine just as much as sludge!
true enough, in Asia we normally call diesel fuel
I guess that gives your engines a rong rife.
Diesel is a fuel, but it is not a gasoline.
Love the way he drains the oil with no gloves,then puts gloves on to tighten drain plug
There obviously is reason for everything. However not everyone is able to comprehend this higher meaning.
LOL...he wanted to save the gloves.
porno6361 , what do you expect from some asshole who puts fuel in with his oil?
🤣
It's to feel for particles in the oil..as you cant sense well with gloves on.
If the treatment *fucks up the seals-* what's the point?
Fastest way I know of to plug up the oil passages to main and rod bearings when all the sludge breaks loose.
Follow this way you may have ruined your engine.
What? Diesel gasoline? Do you keep it next to your semi-fully automatic rifle?
must be yanky
If you file down the diesel sear it's converted to FA. Ensure you are properly licensed under BATF. (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Fuel.)
I keep it next to my PRETTY ULGY wife
Just love that Saturn doing all that fancy work to it
This is why I'm terrified when I buy used cars.
If you are buying a used Saturn, you'll be terrified either way. Sort yourself out you exaggerating douche.
Dad M tough guy on the internet. Your eloquence is breathtaking.
@@JA-yd1hm Great response.
😀😀
I don't live in U.S so maybe I am wrong but that oil filter you are using is extremely shit quality. I would rather reuse my good oil filter again for one more time then to use this Fram filter if saving money really was the case. But oil and filter is cheap, engines are expensive so don't compromise on these things.
No shit, literally what I was thinking.
Fram is shit no matter where you buy it in world.
@@RameshKumar-et8cv Liberal old wives tale
I was going to do it on my 2004 Scion xB with 302K miles until I heard about the diesel being hard on seals and gaskets. Thanks anyway, good video.
I prefere ProTec Engine Flush and Rewitec Powershot S/M/L.
The Last cleans the Piston Rings, redo the whole friction surfaces (metalceramic revitalisation) and let the Engine run smoother, while the rough VW JX Engine of the VW T3 1.6 TD bacame a completely new/different much smoother Engine.
The Peugeot 2.0 V16 XU Engine, Base Engine of the German STW Cup Car (Peugeot 406 German STW) Runs Like a Turbine then.
Use Amsoil engine flush then use a cheap synthetic for the next 3000 miles. It'll be plenty dirty after cleaning the engine.
Then use a premium synthetic like Amsoil and watch leaks go away and oil use stop over the next 5000 miles. Same thing with the transmission using flush and Amsoil synthetic fluid.
BTW, there's nothing like synthetic for saving wear and rejuvenating seals. Use Amsoil or the best filter you can find.
Never had an engine that didn't use less or no oil doing this.
Notice how synthetic lubricants have been on the rise as the only manufacturer lube since the early 90s? There's a good reason for that and superior lubrication is the reason.
A low mileage vehicle changed to synthetic lubricants will last much longer. And these days it's mandatory in most new equipment.
Way back before all the magic of chemistry We used to put in one quart of diesel,
starting with a hot engine and we were usually down a quart anyway,
run it for a couple of minutes and then change oil and filter.
Not sure how good it was but We were usually way over on our change.
Remember We were young, dumb and broke.
I flushed my crankcase with diesel this week and the amount of grit that flushed out was incredible. Will be looking for oil leaks but I don't think the diesel was in there long enough to cause any problems.
You didn't say how much diesel fuel you put in your engine. I hope not a crankcase full. Diesel fuel has no anti wear or anti scuffing additive, so you could score the camshaft lobes and lifter faces.
Diesel is a light oil , flushing out an older car engine with it won’t harm it if done right , 1 drain old oil remove filter, 2 new filter 3ltrs diesel start engine Don’t rev run for 5 minutes switch off, leave for another 5 minutes drain remove filter. Then refill with fresh oil and new filter, Been doing this for 40 plus years never damaged an engine yet .
I like how he drops crankcase plug in with the diesel. Maybe he's trying to clean that too lol
Greetings From Serbia!!I have Volkswagen 1,9tdi and use 5w40.Oil change Is ewery 5000km (not Miles).Trust me,Is so clean like new!!After 1000km oil Is not black!!!!Now,engine have about 400,000km without problem!!Change oil,trust me,you want get wrong! 💝
4:12 yea but how much pressure was it making huh? Healthy engine can survive this kind of flush, but some may not, especially those without brass cam bushings.
I remember I had bought an old ranch truck about a decade ago. the motor seized up on me and when I had gotten the engine tore down it was a massacre. the previous owner said he did this to the engine. be careful. diesel is not a lubricant. YOU WILL destroy your motor doing this
There is no such product as "Diesel Gasoline". There is Diesel Fuel however. They are not to be mixed together.
@Rob Yorkshire You wouldn't want to do that to your modern diesel engine.
Lol,that's the first thing I noticed.
Ask him if muffler bearings are compatible with Johnson pins.
RIGHT
I like it. Diesel gasoline and petrol gasoline. 👍 Both are liquid before turned into gas in the GASLINE 😋
Quote: "Usually, the only cars that need their engines flushed are ones that have not been properly maintained with regular oil changes. I regularly flush the Saturn featured in this video yet, for all the flushes I've done..."
Enough said.
Dont do this people.. Just buy cheap oil, add the recommended amount of seafoam in it and change it a few time in short intervals. This method is causing long term damage, not to mention you are maximizing your chances of sludge getting loose and blocking oil passages.. you really thing all the sludge will come out of that little drain plug ? ......
What do you think the main ingredient in Seafoam is?
Seafoam isn't good for your vehicle either. Especially in oil.
ltwargssf R What you *really* need to do is just change your oil every 3500 miles.
@@scablifter715 Shark teeth?
Next flush should be with "Blinker Fluid Gasoline"
If I ever see you pulled over on the side of the highway I'm just gonna keep on going!
After I roll down the window and laugh 😂
just bring him some more diesel for his crankcase on the bottom of his engine
Use Marvel Mystery Oil. I use it in my 2007 Honda Civic Ex. Two years since I bought the car. Ever since I bought it i have been putting MMO in the gas tank AS DIRECTED. I’ve seen some people on TH-cam that put a whole bottle..That will destroy your fuel system. You can put a whole quart of it, few days before changing your oil..of course you have to take a quart of oil out first..run it for a week then you can flush it. It will take some gunk out. You may need to repeat the whole process two more times to get the whole engine clean, it also depends how dirty your engine is.I believe it’s the safest way.if your car uses four quarts take out half a quart and put in 16oz bottle of MMO and repeat two more times. It also depends on how much gunk is in the engine. It’s only like 5 bucks for a 32 oz of MMO anyways. It also depends where you live. I seen a quart for 3 bucks on TH-cam.
D E my dad has had great success with marvel. Prolonged his oil pump 50k
Just use 100% synthetic motor oil,it is highly detergent and will keep inside of engine clean.
With zero sludge
This is only partially true I know cars that have routine oil changes with synthetic oil only and they are horribly sludged after a 100k miles
@@thunderjet4294 then they weren't actually getting their oil changed by whoever they were paying to do it or not changing the filter
Now drive the car for around 100 miles then change the oil and filter again. The solvent has loosened crap in the engine that's now stuck in the filter and some solvent is still in the oil that was trapped in the oil pump. You will be surprised how dark the oil is after such a short time. I've done this many times on high mileage motors but Marvel Mystery Oil 100 miles before oil change does the same thing and it's gentler on the valves and rings. Take too much crap out too fast and you'll end up using oil and having leaks. Diesel is cheaper but MMO is better. It's your car and money.
ya rite
@@غريبالدار-ق4م wrong
@@mysticwine y?... the reasons
My old man was a diesel mechanic, started in the Korean war, He would drain old, fill with diesel, run engine for 10 or 20 seconds, drained and fill with oil again.
Yeah, that wasn't really enough to do anything.
And that oil change ended up contaminated with that 10-15% volume of undrainable oil/diesel in the fresh oil.
Then that ran for x thousand miles and the owner probably lost 10-20K life of engine.
"Where's the kaboom? there's supposed to be an Earth shattering kaboom....." - Marvin the Martian.
That method really work,I have been using it for long.what you do ,run the vehicle to operating temperature drain the oil while still hot add diesel to capacity of the engine oil .let the engine idle for 5mins don't rev and drain .add your synthetic oil ,you will get a smooth run of engine
I use also mixed diesel fuel and engine oil to flush my 91 corolla. Been doing it for five years now so far the oil seal and gasket ar still good. I di this procedure once a year
Is there any problem if we use these procedure in a 125cc scooter?🤗
@@ikhilvarghese1119 not at all sir i do this also to my 2009 honda beat scooter and my 2006 suzuki shogun 125 mopped. I never experience any oil leaks on my engine. And btw oil seal are still original. The engine parts are still original.
Never heard of "diesel gasoline" before.
Never use a conventional fram oil filter. They are cheap and they suck!
Hey!! My girlfriend's name is Fram!
Two Dorra Eighty Five....oh a sweet and simpler time that was. And shur we hadn't a clue what we were in for....
Finishes by saying flushing may cause leaks!😕
To be fair, this is a risk with any engine flush. It's not unique to diesel "gasoline."
😂
Fresh cheap oil is better than expensive dirty oil, and both are better than "diesel gasoline."
You are compromising the bearings, by doing this, the oil pressure will be too low, with the diesel/oil mix
Not true. I've done this on many vehicles to clean sludge out.
Why do you keep saying "diesel gasoline" ?