Great video again 😉 it's funny to see that the same object can be done in a various number of ways. For example I would have done the holes in the barrel by modifying the sketch to resolve but it would give the same result.
Hi .. love your videos... I've been printing for years and I've tried pretty much every print bed material. You should try a Zebra Plate. You will not need a raft ever again .. ever since using it.. never had anything come loose or warp and it's really easy to come off the plate afterwards unlike things like buildtek.
Cool tutorial thanks for sharing! It's always interesting to see how people work. About the Ultimaker, don't use a raft (specially with PLA) just some glue stick, maybe add a brim and it will work just fine! Raft is usefull only for ABS and Nylon maybe (on the Ultimaker)
It's a bit of a problem with cantilever-style printers, the bed tends to have some play in it that can break off tall narrow prints. A few ideas, in order of difficulty in getting right: 1)Ensure the bed is perfectly level and re-calibrate Z height 2)an even coat of "disappearing purple" glue works well in ensuring bed adhesion between the raft and glass 3)use a very wide brim instead of a raft, and/or reduce the gap between the raft and the part 4)move the part closer to the cantilever support on the bed( i.e. towards the back), this should reduce the amount of play 5)slow down the print, particularly travel moves which tend to be the most violent 6)lower jerk, acceleration and travel acceleration in the print settings
Another excellent tutorial! Thank you tons! I learned more about Fusion360 watching you than through their tutorials (great teacher I guess). What I don't understand is how to create the 2d image you're importing into Fusion3d. I downloaded the program you previously recommended, and watched a tutorial, but ... Any chance of a tutorial on that some day? 😁👍🏻
Punished Props Thanks for the link! What I'm lacking is the method to create the 2D image (with front, side, and top views) to import. Believe it was Maya you recommended; that's the part I'm trying to get down. You make this look so easy!
Bill would you consider making a video on the legality of making and selling 3D printed items like: video game weapons, superhero helmets, etc. I think I've got the gist of it, but reading through all of that legal text, is orders of magnitude less interesting than watching one of your videos, which I have to say is a highlight of the day.
With the Ultimaker, does the print base require any sort of adhesive to print on or does it print on the board? I'm using a Fusion3Design F-306 printer and for PLA I use a single layer of glue stick and ABS I use double layer in a cross-hatch pattern. I never have any issues with part separation with the glue stick. This does use a heated bed and it is glass. I have tried using painters tape with this printer successfully to lower the clean up time required with glue stick though. Just curious what the Ultimaker bed requirements are. Great video as always!
what things are you still unsure of on s3d? it looks you have raft base layers enabled, I've always found with a well leveled machine they are not needed.
I'm new to the world of 3D modeling, so sorry if this is a ridiculous comment, but would it beneficial to model male and female ends on the connection points between the individual pieces? That way you could just snap the pieces together rather than having to glue them later? I'm sure it would still take some sanding, but it seems a more elegant connection method.
That make sense. Also wanted to let you know that I'm not really a maker, or a cosplayer or anything, but I came across your channel and the videos are awesome. I'm into games and comics so the content is still relevant but creating things like this is something I never imagined myself doing. Your videos are pretty inspiring though. You guys make it look way easier than I know it is, but it definitely makes me want to try some things out.
Too bad on the print, but you got the hard part out of the way (the model) so hopefully you can print it in a different orientation with support material, or even in the same direction with support material. Or in a couple of pieces. Keep up the good work, folks, enjoying the channel immensely.
Nice vid. Shame about the print. Did it go to waste or do you perhaps have something to recycle the filament? I've never tried Fusion 360 but it looks quite awesome. Been using 3DS Max for quite a few years now but never made something for printing. I really need to get me one of those. Anyways, I enjoyed it :)
Hey Bill two questions for ya 1. what's the big that looks like a printer next to the Dremel printer? 2. if that happens to be another printer what's the brand? I'm looking for a big-ish printer myself
Instead of creating a new body, moving it, and then using the Combine command to make the hole through the barrel, it's quite a bit easier to just extrude the shape, set the direction to Symmetric, and not have to deal with multiple commands.
That's the same way I learned. Get it done any way I can, and then notice how somebody else on youtube does it when they did it better than me and try to remember for next time!
Could it be that since the tube was narrow it lost stability and went wonky?would creating a base at the bottom (which u can then cut off) to keep it upright help? btw what was the music u were using?
Will you be able to print the rest of the barrel and glue the two parts together? I'd save material but maybe you have enough to just re-do the whole thing.
should have printed the barrel lying flat. that will give it strength. think of wood grain. you will never ever in your life buy a dowel with wood grain running across the width
I have basically no patience whatsoever so I can't really sit down for 5 hours and 3D model something. Sighhhhh my etsy shop will never be successful. The other thing is I'm quite good at painting buuuuuuuuuuuut I can't design anything if my life depended on it. 😟😟😟😟😟😟
awesome video Bill!! I'm a fan of your show. instagram.com/p/BQiZbV3hT7n/ this is my first build on fusion 360. also, there's anyway I can mail you and make you some questions? I sent you a message to instagram but you didn't reply. I want to make my own workshop. regards!!
I could watch this for hours. Thanks a bunch!
13:52 it was letting you snap to the plane when it was visible instead of you having to guess the value :)
everything about this video is fantastic
Great video again 😉 it's funny to see that the same object can be done in a various number of ways. For example I would have done the holes in the barrel by modifying the sketch to resolve but it would give the same result.
Be one with the constraints, Bill. They could really help out in situations!
Hi .. love your videos... I've been printing for years and I've tried pretty much every print bed material. You should try a Zebra Plate. You will not need a raft ever again .. ever since using it.. never had anything come loose or warp and it's really easy to come off the plate afterwards unlike things like buildtek.
Super cool video.
Cool tutorial thanks for sharing! It's always interesting to see how people work.
About the Ultimaker, don't use a raft (specially with PLA) just some glue stick, maybe add a brim and it will work just fine! Raft is usefull only for ABS and Nylon maybe (on the Ultimaker)
Not sure if this has been answered before. Where did you get the diagram for the Boolean Gemini scout rifle?
It's a bit of a problem with cantilever-style printers, the bed tends to have some play in it that can break off tall narrow prints.
A few ideas, in order of difficulty in getting right:
1)Ensure the bed is perfectly level and re-calibrate Z height
2)an even coat of "disappearing purple" glue works well in ensuring bed adhesion between the raft and glass
3)use a very wide brim instead of a raft, and/or reduce the gap between the raft and the part
4)move the part closer to the cantilever support on the bed( i.e. towards the back), this should reduce the amount of play
5)slow down the print, particularly travel moves which tend to be the most violent
6)lower jerk, acceleration and travel acceleration in the print settings
Awesome video how did you make the rivets all around the handle?
Another excellent tutorial! Thank you tons!
I learned more about Fusion360 watching you than through their tutorials (great teacher I guess). What I don't understand is how to create the 2d image you're importing into Fusion3d. I downloaded the program you previously recommended, and watched a tutorial, but ...
Any chance of a tutorial on that some day? 😁👍🏻
Punished Props
Thanks for the link! What I'm lacking is the method to create the 2D image (with front, side, and top views) to import. Believe it was Maya you recommended; that's the part I'm trying to get down. You make this look so easy!
Bill would you consider making a video on the legality of making and selling 3D printed items like: video game weapons, superhero helmets, etc.
I think I've got the gist of it, but reading through all of that legal text, is orders of magnitude less interesting than watching one of your videos, which I have to say is a highlight of the day.
With the Ultimaker, does the print base require any sort of adhesive to print on or does it print on the board? I'm using a Fusion3Design F-306 printer and for PLA I use a single layer of glue stick and ABS I use double layer in a cross-hatch pattern. I never have any issues with part separation with the glue stick. This does use a heated bed and it is glass. I have tried using painters tape with this printer successfully to lower the clean up time required with glue stick though. Just curious what the Ultimaker bed requirements are. Great video as always!
***** Good to know! I err on the side of caution and make sure nothing escapes the printing bed muhaha!
ohhh bill, i been following your work for a very very very long time, but im curious. how do you glue the parts you print?
what things are you still unsure of on s3d? it looks you have raft base layers enabled, I've always found with a well leveled machine they are not needed.
i really enjoyed this.
thanks.
I'm new to the world of 3D modeling, so sorry if this is a ridiculous comment, but would it beneficial to model male and female ends on the connection points between the individual pieces? That way you could just snap the pieces together rather than having to glue them later?
I'm sure it would still take some sanding, but it seems a more elegant connection method.
That make sense.
Also wanted to let you know that I'm not really a maker, or a cosplayer or anything, but I came across your channel and the videos are awesome. I'm into games and comics so the content is still relevant but creating things like this is something I never imagined myself doing. Your videos are pretty inspiring though. You guys make it look way easier than I know it is, but it definitely makes me want to try some things out.
rally awesome thank you for posting this :D very helpful
would like to see more 3D modeling of a handguard, pistol grip and stock
Too bad on the print, but you got the hard part out of the way (the model) so hopefully you can print it in a different orientation with support material, or even in the same direction with support material. Or in a couple of pieces. Keep up the good work, folks, enjoying the channel immensely.
Thanks, one question what is the average thickness for foam when making a helmet 6mm seems small.
I think you should try to 3d model a helmet in fusion 360 Bill... I kinda made some progress trying that but getting the shape right is difficult.
***** Awesome I look forward to it :)
can I ask the spec of the computer your using for modelling? very keen to get into using 360 but my current machine is practically clockwork...
Thanks guys!
so if that part is the
barrel, what is the part above it?
Nice vid. Shame about the print. Did it go to waste or do you perhaps have something to recycle the filament?
I've never tried Fusion 360 but it looks quite awesome. Been using 3DS Max for quite a few years now but never made something for printing. I really need to get me one of those.
Anyways, I enjoyed it :)
Can i pls know what layer height u use?
Are you going to release the models to your patreon supporters or sell the models?
Punished Props I plan on learning to model. I really appreciate all you do for the community!
You should make an Eyasluna or the new adept burning eye
Hey Bill two questions for ya 1. what's the big that looks like a printer next to the Dremel printer? 2. if that happens to be another printer what's the brand? I'm looking for a big-ish printer myself
Punished Props Thank you!!
Instead of creating a new body, moving it, and then using the Combine command to make the hole through the barrel, it's quite a bit easier to just extrude the shape, set the direction to Symmetric, and not have to deal with multiple commands.
+Jonathan Huizingh I'm sure I'm doing most everything the slow way! Hah! Thanks for the tip. =)
That's the same way I learned. Get it done any way I can, and then notice how somebody else on youtube does it when they did it better than me and try to remember for next time!
What 3D program do you use
weird question. what's the song called? it sounds like a Legend Of Zelda song.
Hey Dude you can enter -45° it should go to the other side :) instead of 135.
haha me too :D you can do math in it ! example you want to have 99 in 3 Parts type 99/3 in it and it will automaticly do 33. or easy math stuff.
Oh man, I HATE when that happens. Did you get a print to finish?
Ah, yes. I've used that fix more than a few times myself. ;)
Do you think that is possible to model a 3d printable Destiny armor/suit?
How can It be done? It would be awesome, but I don't have any 3d designing skills.
To extrude to a face press the face you want to extrude to and it will snap to it
is that dremel printer any good
thanks for the reply i have been think about one for awhile now becasue they are a good price aswell
Hello Bill where are you get the picture
I think concept art or from in-game element files.
oooh noooooo! can you melt that back down or is it just wasted?
or keep it as modern art?
Recycle: www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1
so.. what happened to the barrel?
Could it be that since the tube was narrow it lost stability and went wonky?would creating a base at the bottom (which u can then cut off) to keep it upright help? btw what was the music u were using?
Will you be able to print the rest of the barrel and glue the two parts together? I'd save material but maybe you have enough to just re-do the whole thing.
Subbed!
Hi Proptarts :)
Just throw some Bondo on it...
nooooooooooooooo lol
should have printed the barrel lying flat. that will give it strength. think of wood grain. you will never ever in your life buy a dowel with wood grain running across the width
I have basically no patience whatsoever so I can't really sit down for 5 hours and 3D model something. Sighhhhh my etsy shop will never be successful. The other thing is I'm quite good at painting buuuuuuuuuuuut I can't design anything if my life depended on it. 😟😟😟😟😟😟
awesome video Bill!! I'm a fan of your show. instagram.com/p/BQiZbV3hT7n/ this is my first build on fusion 360. also, there's anyway I can mail you and make you some questions? I sent you a message to instagram but you didn't reply. I want to make my own workshop. regards!!
Nooooooooo!