NO switch, catch the key with your teeth. Seriously there is no more interesting time than testing ones reflexes with a missile at 2' (60cm). A magnet switch is a sealed alternative.
When I converted my PM25-MV to CNC, I found that tramming the spindle with regard to the table wasn't enough to produce good parts. I found that the column itself wasn't square to the table and as the head went up and down instead of the quill, the cutter was being shifted left/right and forwards/backwards resulting in oblong holes while drilling. So I created a column shim plate out of some cold rolled steel. I used a magnetic chuck to keep the steel as flat a possible while I faced it. I tried a couple of other ways to hold down the steel plate, however I found the cold rolled steel tended to warp pretty bad and I couldn't get the constant taper I needed. I used various stainless steel shims under the corners of the magnetic chuck to get the exact angles I needed (sorry but I don't own a double hinged magnetic sine plate to have done this properly). Now that the column shim plate is installed, there is no shift in X or Y axis when the head moves up and down the column, and the drilled holes are no longer elongated.
I normally use cold rolled a fair bit thicker than the finished size and machine both sides to remove the surface which has a lot of tension and then machine to size .that eliminated the warping.
I use my 70 yr old Atlas lathe nearly every day and my mill is not much newer but with patience and a lot of skill and knowledge gained over many years I get good results. It just takes longer than using new machinery.
It's about knowing the limitations of your machine and daring to experiment to get to know the boundaries. I have a European Mondiale lathe that's also around 70 years old but boy can she take a cut. Plain bearings like in our machines are not designed to spin very fast but they are capable of taking higher loads than comparable sized roller bearings. The most important factor in these old machines is smart choices in tooling and workholding. High speed steel tools with a polished and agressive chip breaker can take mighty depths of cut at low feeds. I use indexable carbide too for tough materials and to get a nice surface finish but I'm at risk of slipping the belt if I run them too hard. For workholding, few things have the gripping power of a 4-jaw. I wish I had a collet chuck setup to try, that would be sweet I think
@@shiro-r4m Most of my work is in Stainless Steel .Belt slippage is an issue so I don't like that as it's a pain to dismantle the headstock to replace the belt.I tried on of those belts made of links and rivets but it slipped awfully.
Given you have a VFD and the ELS, you should get a DRO. But also hook the sensors of the DRO to the for the crossfeed position to the VFD, so that the RPM will increase to keep constant tool surface speed when cutting narrower diameters. Of course you'd have to set offsets and such, but it substantially improves surface finish when facing or turning part features with widely varying diameters.
Two things on my small lathe that were just annoying; the noisy chip panel behind the lathe and the tail stock lock. Automotive sound deadener on the backside of the panel cured the oil canning sound. The tail stock lock bugged me because it took about a full turn to unlock and have the lock plate under the ways clear enough to slide smoothly. A compression spring of sufficient length placed around the locking stud between the bottom of the tail stock and the locking plate pushes things apart with a 1/4 turn and solves that problem.
@@amftpt I'd also recommend a cam-lock tailstock lock. Basically, you take the nut off your lock, and replace it with a piece of round stock tapped the same thread pitch. Cross drill the round stock, then drill a hole through your tailstock at the height of that cross drilled hole. Put a piece of steel bar through with an eccentric cam on the end, and attach a handle so you can rotate it. Bam. Super fast lock/unlock on your tailstock. It takes maybe a few hours to make and makes it an actual pleasure when you have reason to move your tailstock. I think the one extra step I did was a pressed brass bushing insert in the hole in my tailstock web.
LOL, That thing about leaving the key in the chuck is the first thing they thought us when I was doing my Metalworking Education at school, it brings back good memories 👌
I bought a German branded drill/mill that everyone has. I built a steel stand with a deck lean left to right, to drain the coolant. Some drawers from stock were fitted into the base for tooling. At someone's suggestion the vice is mounted at the left end. I am this moment modifying a trailer hitch. I was able to use either the vice or the top without shifting anything. In due course (haven't we heard that before) I will add a backbar to the rear of the table so that the vice will be automatically square on when remounting. Because my shop is very dusty (working on reducing that to just dusty!) I put a roof on my box. That keeps the machine clean.
Really good tips here. On my lathe I cut up some aluminum sheet to make a way guard and attach it to my carriage with rare-earth bar magnets so I can take it off and on easily. Only down side is when milling steel the fragments get caught on the magnets. But it works. Thanks for the video!
As for the coolant, I always hated the soluble oil/water emulsion. It tends to form some mould, starts to smell non-appetizing after a while and being water-based causes rust. If you don't run production but only manufacture the odd small part ( as I do in my gunsmith's workshop), there's another solution (literally). Mix neat soluble cutting oil 1/10 with meths (that's methylated spirits, not the drug stuff), put it in a spray bottle, and there you go. Spray on your part and cutting tool. Works like a dream. Due to the evaporation of the spirits it cools well. Leaves only oil as a residue. The spray bottle's pump lever hooks nicely onto the chip tray, so the bottle is always handy. If you don't like the smell of the boiled spirit, try some cheap, high octane whiskey or grain liquor for the mix. If you want to go super safe with the lathe chuck-key, add a microswitch into the chuck-key- holder, so the machine will only start when the key is at home.
Dang, finally someone that gets it right about 'leveling'. Every guide says it has to be level (wrt gravity), but that's BS like you said. All that matters is the bed isn't twisted
I have a 5c indexer head that all of a sudden got really tight to index around. I watched a couple videos on here but they didn't cover my issue. I took it apart using some of the guidance on here, then got to the point on how to get the main indexer head out, but no luck. It just showed the fella with it all apart, cleaned and ready to go back together. I made sure that all the 24 set screws were not causing the problem, cleaned everything. I just can't separate the plate from the internal sleeve that holds the collet. If I can get that apart for cleaning, then I'm sure it will take care of the problems. I noticed on some newer china brands have an extra hole drilled in the side with grease/oil fitting. Is this something that you can help with? Is the plate pressed fit or tapered? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am enjoying your professional presentation.
Most Excellent!! I just acquired the same mill and was going to bolt it to the floor....But not no more. Thanks again for show the easy improvements are a lot of just common sense events.
@Barry Manilowa Robert Hawtin could edit his post to say "I agree with Peter below (if sorted by date) or Peter above (if sorted by popularity)..." But there may be other Peters over the coming years who also post responses regarding the ELS, so Robert would have to edit his post again in order to be clear about which Peter he is referring to. However, I believe that there is a time limit for editing a post, so it may be that we just have to accept that Robert's post can never be truly accurate ever again.
I really like the chuck spider. Not that people wouldn't notice, but that is a 12 point box end wrench and not a 6 point for the tool post holder.. I like the way your feet actually bolted into the underside of the tail stock. The 5" Emco-Maier I had 20 years ago only attached to the chip pan, which was just not rigid enough.
I use magnets to hold chuck keys and wrenches. Big speaker magnets under the chuck catch those nasty cast iron chips. Cover the magnets with a rag for easy chip disposal. I also use magnets to hold screws n bolts when I take something apart. Great simple video...thanks.
I used a 1L PE squeeze bottle for my reservoir and I just cut the feed tubing and pushed it onto the dispenser nozzle and it works fine. I didn't like the sloppy mess in my table after a milling job so I took the right end plate off the table, drilled and threaded a through hole at the table floor level and installed brass tube fittings so that I could add a return tube back to my reservoir, mounted below the table. I tilted my mill slightly so that everything runs to the hole and the liquid clears by gravity alone after a job. A piece of filter material in the return tube blocks any metal bits from getting back into the reservoir. This worked well too but I've since upgraded to a mister with an independent fluid valve and I reduce my coolant flow so that no liquid builds up in the table but my tools stay cool to the touch and the return system now stays mostly dry.
I like the lathe chuck spider and mill enclosure the best. I have a Bridgeport mill so a solid enclosure won't work but I think I can come up with something using a clear shower curtain. Thanks for the ideas.
The square nut on the drawbar on my METRIC mill is 3/8, I had some old worn out 3/8 sockets so I cut of the socket parts from 2 and welded the 3/8 drive squares together cutoff to cuttoff and now i use a 3/8 drive butterfly air wrench to tighten/slacken the drawbar.
I also have a G0602, so I've run into the same issues as you. Something you didn't mention is the clamp ring at the base of the compound; it is very flimsy, and the main culprit of chatter or worse when machining steel. You can realize a lot of improvement by simply using the clamp ring spun 180 degrees, but you won't be able to see the protractor. I have designed and built a new clamp ring which is much stiffer while still allowing a clear view of the protractor. It is stiff enough that I can part off steel using a 1/8" parting blade with no chatter at all.
I have a six-bolt mod on mine, and my gibs cranked down (I need to drill and tap a couple holes for locks like the mill table uses), but I'm still fighting major chatter problems parting off steel. I broke three HSS blades and 7 carbide tips, all making one single cut.
I love these ideas. Only think I'd change, is if you're not sure if your cnc mill is going to launch a part or tool out, maybe swap out the coraplast and shower curtain for some 1/8" polycarbonate. Quite a bit more expensive, but also much more likely to catch a flying metal part.
Great tips James, thanks for sharing. I modeled and 3D printed lathe tool holders (similar to your chuck key holder) which hook to the backsplash. They don’t slide around, look pretty cool and are super handy. Used the same idea on the Tormach enclosure for hanging the vise handle and dead blow. And 3D printer numerous adapters for the dust collection system where nothing stock seems to fit together. Is there anything the 3D printer can’t do? 😀
Oh man that 3D printed chuck key holder is brilliant. I'm going to have to steal that. Right now I just have a 2x4 sitting on the front of the lathe with a bunch of holes drilled in it holding my chuck keys and wrenches and so forth much less elegant 🤣
at 8:33 your dog tip cap screw for the tail stock spindle. you may want to cut another half thread off and under cut the dog tip slightly so the dog tip rides just barely inside the keyway..not at the top surface of the keyway.. so it can't raise a burr as you exert torque on the spindle with big drills.. at 6:34 your tool post top nut.. machine a taller version. like a coupling nut. machine off all but the bottom inch of hex.. where the wrench will live.. the upper part is smooth so you can lift the wrench without it coming all the way off to get a new grab on the nut.. but.. create this new nut tall enough that you can create a cap nut to go in that has a hex or double D shape on the flange OD.. and a drilled and tapped hole for some kind of camera mount.. easily allowing you to mount a camera on top of the tool post. one might modify a air hose quck connect plug to screw into the top of the nut.. and a plug for the end of the coupler to mount a camera bracket on... allowing a crazy quick disconnect camera mount that won't obstruct the wrench removal for more than 2 seconds. might need to look at Double hex drivers and a double hex bolt to fit in the coupler so you can index the coupler on the double hex bit on the top of the plug.. so it does not swivel.. you could also.. change one coupler ball to a larger diameter.. and dimple the groove on the plug.. so you could index the camera angle in a second by pulling the collar up. on your mill quill bolt. create a broach to punch a 8mm square hole thru some grade 8 nuts. so you are not wearing the tips of the square drive.. but the cheap grade 8 nuts using a conventional socket.. or even an adapter you make to live on the quill bolt top.. when i have a bunch of holes to tap in hard places.. i drive a properly sized hex nut on my tap square drive ends so i can get a better bite on it with a wrench. i used to fix cars a lot. i.imgur.com/Vv09FT1.jpg
thank you, great tips. I also have a G0602 but my chuck holder is on the front. I did not buy the stand rather I put mine on an old Craftsman cabinet I have. I had a plywood flat the lathe sits on and, on the edge of that, I screwed down an extremely flat box end 3/4 hex wrench I found at a flea market. Cut off all but the end then drill two holes. its a good sold steel holder for the chuck key. now your under chuck chip tray I am about to build just like you have out of a old microwave casing. FINE TIPS> Keep'em coming!!
if i had a shop i'd be using all of these tips. but hey! many ppl start a shop with no tips whatsoever. im lucky to have learned so many things before hand!
Great video James / you are an engineer that gets the job done / you do great work! - I especially like the jack screws for leveling /setup of your lathe- done right / you are inspiring me to similar content on my channel 👍🏻 / not sure I can match the production quality though -haha / keep it up!
For that anti-rotation screw, in a similar application, i machined a brass 'plug' that is screwed onto the 'adjuster' screw, so that it is a brass part against the steel slot, guarantees that it never damages the slot, and gives just a bit of adjustable 'drag '
As always James, outstanding video. What’s funny is that most of your improvements are also mine. I started with a lathe way cover made of leather (inspired by Stefan Gotteswinter) and I moved to two branded sheets of metal overlaping. I also have the habit to hook systematically the chuck key on a plastic (PMMA) support bolted on the lathe structure. I would really appreciate some protection around my small Sixis S101 mill, however, there are cranks everywhere (it is not CNCed) and the few attempts to install screens where not successful at all. I also made a spindle block, but I shall confess that your project was my source of inspiration 😀 many thanks.
I'm a little behind the times, since I just found the channel, but I had a thought while watching the tool post grinder series. How about a hook/holder for your air ratchet on the front of the mill enclosure? That would keep you from having to go down to the floor for it. One for the air gun might be handy as well, and maybe even the vice handle.
I like the idea of the cover for the ways. I may do mine out of something clear like plexiglass and leave room under it for the carriage stop that actuates the feed rod clutch.
here's a thought on that toolpost wrench. I'd build up a portion of the wrench with some welding on the outside of the nut - holding area then I'd mill a flat on that welded up area. Next I'd bore and thread for a decent sized set screw. Move the wrench so that the set screw is over a flat on the nut and tighten using low strength Loctite. Now you don't have to go looking for the wrench. It's always there :) .... and if ya really want to go to town, I'd drill a dimple in the nut for the set screw to lock into.
There are many times when I jog or spin up the machine while holding the chuck key. Your idea is great for people that don't operate lathes often/regularly but having to put the key back every time I want to start the lathe would never work for me.
hey @clough42, I tested a 6mm 12pt on a Grizzly Mill per the tip at @14:30 and It seems a 9mm works, not a 6mm for the 8mm square. Can you make a note so that others can order the correct one? Thanks for the tips!
One way to straighten out a small piece in the chuck is to put a drill chuck in the tail stock. Bring the tail stock close. Put the part in the lathe chuck and tighten very slightly, just enough to hold it. Then bring the jaws of the drill chuck inside the chuck. Bring the chuck to the work and using the tail stock hand wheel, push the part into the lathe chuck until it’s where you need it. As long as the part is somewhere close to parallel, the works very well. Then just tighten the lathe chuck. Alternatively, you can get a Morse taper and make a large flat and put it on the end. Make it perpendicular to the work, and you can use that for larger pieces. This isn’t absolutely perfect, but for most work, it’s more than good enough. But for really precise work I have a tool with replaceable parallels of different depths that fit into the lathe chuck will keep the part accurate to 0.001”. But it’s mostly not needed. Smart idea with the spindle lock, but never forget when it’s locked! Maybe something that will slip or break away if the motor is mistakenly turned on.
One more question. I have a Precision Matthews 1228. It has an 11” casting “foot” under the headstock and a 6” foot under the tail; each have two holes for securing the lathe to the bench. Before ordering 11x19 and 6x19 aluminum plates, in your estimation, will two jackscrews on either end be sufficient for leveling or should I research another leveling option? Thanks for your consideration.
Here's a mill tip from me..... Move your vice toward one end of the table - as far as it'll go and still be fully accessible for use. There are 2 benefits: 1. It'll move regular slide wear to one end of the table (The table has 2 ends but only one middle) 2. It'll leave more table space for clamping directly to it without the need to remove the vice such that it loses its alignment.
How do you get the wrench to fit so tightly on the toolpost nut? Mine flops around a bit even though it's the right size - 19mm. I'd like the wrench to fit snug but not sure how to modify it to do so.
A proper method would be to make a flat piece of f brass with a spot hole on top. The screw pointed a little bit to fit in the spot hole. Drive out the quill, inserted flat in the key way and drive it back till you can find the spot hole through the tailstock hole. Insert screw with lock not on it, adjust and lock. That will have a proper smooth and strong hold, not like a screw that is tangent to a flat, not so good...
I thought of something, tell me what you think. Do you know how PCs used to have a spread frequency option to minimize EMI? What if the VFD spindle speed had an automatic variable speed mode- do you think it would help to eliminate tool chatter? I seem to get that too often...
Yes. Some CNC machines have this option for the spindle for exactly this reason. Okuma calls their feature HSSC (Harmonic Spindle Speed Control). Other manufacturers have similar features.
@@Clough42 That was was embarrassingly easy to find with an internet search! They have a whitepaper and a TH-cam video demonstration, in which the spindle speed changes more than I was imagining. Maybe a quick Arduino project would be all that is required.
do you have any material that goes over your lathe stand construction? I'm a woodworker dipping my toes into machine work and the grizzly lathe is the first thing I'm getting - i was hoping I could make a stand out of doubled-up 3/4" plywood and fill it with drawers. Would love some details on how you built your bench! (and also, would you change anything - more space in front, or behind, etc)
The construction is similar to the miter bench featured on The New Yankee Workshop several decades ago. It's a 3/4" plywood cabinet carcass, with a half-lapped grid of 2x4's on top, a sheet of 3/4" plywood, and a sheet of 1/4" Masonite hardboard, wrapped with oak edging.
Cool mods. The bed adjustment system is cool but your loosing a lot of rigidity. I have a comparable lathe and tried this same similar setup and found that the bed would twist a few thou with very minimal pressure. Just traversing the carriage from one end to the threw it out .003". I fixed this by mounted it to a 3/4" steel plate spanning from one end of the bed to the other and used machine epoxy to level it. Try putting a dial indicator from the bed to the table and watch how much flex is actually occurring. Thanks for posting! I enjoy your content.
I made a version of your way protector for my lathe and found it was more of a hindrance than an advantage as when using a stop I could not see the stop. Made it difficult to set and use. Tried perspex which was ok , but prone to cracking. In the end I ditched the whole idea.
James, your lathe VFD upgrade videos are extremely helpful, Thank You! I followed your videos to upgrade/repair my lathe last summer when it's stock motor and electrical components failed, they were 40 years old. I use a 110 v to 220 v step-up transformer to generate 220 v for the 2 HP VFD and 2 HP 3 phase motor, this works very well for anyone who does not have easy access to 220 v power. The lathe now runs super smooth, has way more turning power and having the instant infinite variable speed control at your fingertips helps dial in excellent cutting results. Your are a great teacher and your channel provides excellent content, thank you again and all the best.
Coroplast has gone up a bit, bought a 10pk of black & white special order from HD for like $110. Closest equivalent now is $155/10pk. Bought it for a Hackaday Prize entry project heat exchanger but all those remnants are going to be put to use now!
I made a tray that fits in a similar fashion to your chuck key holder, only comes into the space rather than behind it. It has two large holes which hold those tapered anti spill paint pots, having oils & brushes in. I've used sheet metal (sprayed to match my lathe). Also another that holds torx keys. I don't have a 3D printer.
Great videos! I am late getting to them. Curious what your opinion is on the lathe and that size after years of use? Thinking about a PM1022 or something of similar size.
I e always known a spider as a tool that mounts on the back of the spindle to center a long work piece that runs through the spindle bore, I use mine for blueprinting rifle barrels
Suggestion for spider. Take .25 x .75 (& 1 & 1.25 & so on) by 6-8" long. Bend at 120 degree, then weld same stock (1/2 OAL) weld on at 120 degree. Mill / grind parallel. Put that behind your part. It will spin, but can not fall out.
Love your channel James up here in the great white north. Slightly off subject but I have a CX706 lathe and having issue with the always apron leaking oil. I can't seem to find were the leak is coming from but there is always some drops on the bottom of the apron. Wonder if you had an issue with that or anyone else on this channel might have a solution. Again great channel learn a lot for it.
Make a chuck key holder that detects a magnet glued to your lathe key so that the lathe has an interlock requiring the key to be sensed before spinning up!
I have the same lathe. The compound is seriously weak on these machines. You're going to want to make a block to mount your tool holder on so you can remove the compound when you're not using it. It really helps in increasing rigidity.
I hope that this text finds you Question I have look for the motor that was installed on the 602 lathe they informed me that this motor was discontinued. Is there any other place were I can get this motor or one like it thanks.
Thanks for the video and for sharing the great upgrade ideas. Question about the milling coolant - how is it captured? i assume it is an open loop system where the coolant is captured and then manually recycled?
Im really enjoying your shows, friend! Im at the transition point of retiring and getting on with updating my shop tooling to include a lathe and mill with some CNC ability. Ive been a Cad pilot almost all my life starting with Autocad 2.2 but only current to 2004. I hope you dont pull a This Ol Tony on me and stop youtubing. Thanks for your efforts!
Hi James! Regarding the CNC conversion of your Grizzly mill. I have an extremely similar Bernardo KF 25 Pro (from Austria) and I'm also interested to convert it to CNC. How did you handle the backlash of the lead screws? And do you have more information on the conversion? Thanks, Hansi
Lead screws are replaced with single or double ball screws. Looks like he has the Hoss designed cnc and it appears to be the phase 3 setup so most likely the double ball screws.
I AM IN THE PROCESS OF ASSEMBLING AN ELS ON MY MINI LATHE. ON MY ELS BOOST V2.1 MFG 9/2019 THE 8 PIN U2 I THINK IT IS CALLED DCRON IS MISSING. IT SEEMS TO BE ON ALL OF THE ONES I SEE PICTURED? IS THIS IMPORTANT? THANKS DON DAVIS
Even tho it wasn't your idea, the chip tray on the lathe is one I think I will attempt on my Mori Seiki just for the ease of chip removal. I also like the 3D printed bottle to clamp the tube.
Hi Clough42, did you check the runout on the Ebay ER20 collets? Do you think 0.002 runout is ok for manual and CNC on a small machine like the PM25 or G704 (I bought 10 of them, 5 of them are 0.001" or less runout, I'm wondering if I should return the ones that are 0.002" - 0.0025" runout.
You only get what you pay for is a very true phrase..........if you cannot afford to go the expensive way with machinery then fixing up a new lathe to make it run good or fixing up an oldie but goody that has seen better days is an exercise in workability if you are capable.......don't contemplate ever getting an old worn out machine if you have no machining experience........at the same time a budget is the first step to realizing any machinery acquisition and what you want to do will determine the type of machinery you'll be looking for.
Any chance of using flood coolant once you upgrade the spindle? I never could get the same results with mist systems that I did with flood, especially at the higher rpm. Feels like once you get to about 8-10k rpm it’s easy to have a feature than blocks the most for a moment and it’s instant welded chips and broken end mill. Flood coolant was annoying at first but can’t imagine not using it now.
I award you and Quinn with gold stars for teaching.
You can have a NO switch in the key holder in series with the start button that prevents you from starting the machine if the key is not in there.
NO switch, catch the key with your teeth.
Seriously there is no more interesting time than testing ones reflexes with a missile at 2' (60cm). A magnet switch is a sealed alternative.
I've got two chuck keys...
@@typhoon2827 I have three.
You could also make a self-ejecting key, although this could be annoying for some.
I’ve had a G0602 for several years now. I’m very glad I found your channel.
Awesome tips! I will be doing many of these now. 😀 Thanks for the shout out too! “I don’t remember what was in this bottle” slayed me. 🤣
Probably Pepsi, not sure
@@routercnc9517 Mountain Dew and it even can be used as the cutting fluid! 😉
I made a lathe bed chip guard but then had to modify it again as I could not set my home made carriage stop.
When I converted my PM25-MV to CNC, I found that tramming the spindle with regard to the table wasn't enough to produce good parts. I found that the column itself wasn't square to the table and as the head went up and down instead of the quill, the cutter was being shifted left/right and forwards/backwards resulting in oblong holes while drilling. So I created a column shim plate out of some cold rolled steel. I used a magnetic chuck to keep the steel as flat a possible while I faced it. I tried a couple of other ways to hold down the steel plate, however I found the cold rolled steel tended to warp pretty bad and I couldn't get the constant taper I needed. I used various stainless steel shims under the corners of the magnetic chuck to get the exact angles I needed (sorry but I don't own a double hinged magnetic sine plate to have done this properly). Now that the column shim plate is installed, there is no shift in X or Y axis when the head moves up and down the column, and the drilled holes are no longer elongated.
same with my Precision Mathews. Column was not quite straight.
I normally use cold rolled a fair bit thicker than the finished size and machine both sides to remove the surface which has a lot of tension and then machine to size .that eliminated the warping.
I use my 70 yr old Atlas lathe nearly every day and my mill is not much newer but with patience and a lot of skill and knowledge gained over many years I get good results. It just takes longer than using new machinery.
It's about knowing the limitations of your machine and daring to experiment to get to know the boundaries.
I have a European Mondiale lathe that's also around 70 years old but boy can she take a cut.
Plain bearings like in our machines are not designed to spin very fast but they are capable of taking higher loads than comparable sized roller bearings.
The most important factor in these old machines is smart choices in tooling and workholding. High speed steel tools with a polished and agressive chip breaker can take mighty depths of cut at low feeds. I use indexable carbide too for tough materials and to get a nice surface finish but I'm at risk of slipping the belt if I run them too hard.
For workholding, few things have the gripping power of a 4-jaw. I wish I had a collet chuck setup to try, that would be sweet I think
@@shiro-r4m Most of my work is in Stainless Steel .Belt slippage is an issue so I don't like that as it's a pain to dismantle the headstock to replace the belt.I tried on of those belts made of links and rivets but it slipped awfully.
Given you have a VFD and the ELS, you should get a DRO. But also hook the sensors of the DRO to the for the crossfeed position to the VFD, so that the RPM will increase to keep constant tool surface speed when cutting narrower diameters. Of course you'd have to set offsets and such, but it substantially improves surface finish when facing or turning part features with widely varying diameters.
Two things on my small lathe that were just annoying; the noisy chip panel behind the lathe and the tail stock lock.
Automotive sound deadener on the backside of the panel cured the oil canning sound.
The tail stock lock bugged me because it took about a full turn to unlock and have the lock plate under the ways clear enough to slide smoothly. A compression spring of sufficient length placed around the locking stud between the bottom of the tail stock and the locking plate pushes things apart with a 1/4 turn and solves that problem.
I'm going to add that spring to the tail stock clamp first thing tomorrow. Good idea, thanks.
@@amftpt I'd also recommend a cam-lock tailstock lock. Basically, you take the nut off your lock, and replace it with a piece of round stock tapped the same thread pitch. Cross drill the round stock, then drill a hole through your tailstock at the height of that cross drilled hole. Put a piece of steel bar through with an eccentric cam on the end, and attach a handle so you can rotate it. Bam. Super fast lock/unlock on your tailstock. It takes maybe a few hours to make and makes it an actual pleasure when you have reason to move your tailstock. I think the one extra step I did was a pressed brass bushing insert in the hole in my tailstock web.
Love that 3-d printed 2-liter cap for coolant.
I'm restoring an old Logan 400 lathe and I have dreams of buying the lathe you have. Glad I found your channel. Cheers!
LOL, That thing about leaving the key in the chuck is the first thing they thought us when I was doing my Metalworking Education at school, it brings back good memories 👌
Nice looking shop. On your lathe make a larger size nut for the tail stock and the tool post wrench will fit the tail stock as well.
I laughed WAY too hard at you "not remembering" what was originally in the Coca-Cola bottle 🤣
I bought a German branded drill/mill that everyone has. I built a steel stand with a deck lean left to right, to drain the coolant.
Some drawers from stock were fitted into the base for tooling.
At someone's suggestion the vice is mounted at the left end. I am this moment modifying a trailer hitch. I was able to use either the vice or the top without shifting anything. In due course (haven't we heard that before) I will add a backbar to the rear of the table so that the vice will be automatically square on when remounting.
Because my shop is very dusty (working on reducing that to just dusty!) I put a roof on my box. That keeps the machine clean.
Really good tips here. On my lathe I cut up some aluminum sheet to make a way guard and attach it to my carriage with rare-earth bar magnets so I can take it off and on easily. Only down side is when milling steel the fragments get caught on the magnets. But it works. Thanks for the video!
Magnets are awesome, but there's always that tradeoff.
As for the coolant, I always hated the soluble oil/water emulsion. It tends to form some mould, starts to smell non-appetizing after a while and being water-based causes rust. If you don't run production but only manufacture the odd small part ( as I do in my gunsmith's workshop), there's another solution (literally). Mix neat soluble cutting oil 1/10 with meths (that's methylated spirits, not the drug stuff), put it in a spray bottle, and there you go. Spray on your part and cutting tool. Works like a dream. Due to the evaporation of the spirits it cools well. Leaves only oil as a residue. The spray bottle's pump lever hooks nicely onto the chip tray, so the bottle is always handy. If you don't like the smell of the boiled spirit, try some cheap, high octane whiskey or grain liquor for the mix.
If you want to go super safe with the lathe chuck-key, add a microswitch into the chuck-key- holder, so the machine will only start when the key is at home.
Dang, finally someone that gets it right about 'leveling'. Every guide says it has to be level (wrt gravity), but that's BS like you said. All that matters is the bed isn't twisted
I have a 5c indexer head that all of a sudden got really tight to index around. I watched a couple videos on here but they didn't cover my issue. I took it apart using some of the guidance on here, then got to the point on how to get the main indexer head out, but no luck. It just showed the fella with it all apart, cleaned and ready to go back together. I made sure that all the 24 set screws were not causing the problem, cleaned everything. I just can't separate the plate from the internal sleeve that holds the collet. If I can get that apart for cleaning, then I'm sure it will take care of the problems. I noticed on some newer china brands have an extra hole drilled in the side with grease/oil fitting. Is this something that you can help with? Is the plate pressed fit or tapered? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am enjoying your professional presentation.
Most Excellent!! I just acquired the same mill and was going to bolt it to the floor....But not no more. Thanks again for show the easy improvements are a lot of just common sense events.
I agree with Peter below. The ELS is really good. Amazing range of feed and thread pitches in both metric and imperial and very easy to use. BobUK
@Barry Manilowa Robert Hawtin could edit his post to say "I agree with Peter below (if sorted by date) or Peter above (if sorted by popularity)..."
But there may be other Peters over the coming years who also post responses regarding the ELS, so Robert would have to edit his post again in order to be clear about which Peter he is referring to. However, I believe that there is a time limit for editing a post, so it may be that we just have to accept that Robert's post can never be truly accurate ever again.
I really like the chuck spider.
Not that people wouldn't notice, but that is a 12 point box end wrench and not a 6 point for the tool post holder..
I like the way your feet actually bolted into the underside of the tail stock. The 5" Emco-Maier I had 20 years ago only attached to the chip pan, which was just not rigid enough.
I love the spindle lock for broaching! Very clever! :)
I use magnets to hold chuck keys and wrenches.
Big speaker magnets under the chuck catch those nasty cast iron chips. Cover the magnets with a rag for easy chip disposal.
I also use magnets to hold screws n bolts when I take something apart.
Great simple video...thanks.
I used a 1L PE squeeze bottle for my reservoir and I just cut the feed tubing and pushed it onto the dispenser nozzle and it works fine. I didn't like the sloppy mess in my table after a milling job so I took the right end plate off the table, drilled and threaded a through hole at the table floor level and installed brass tube fittings so that I could add a return tube back to my reservoir, mounted below the table. I tilted my mill slightly so that everything runs to the hole and the liquid clears by gravity alone after a job. A piece of filter material in the return tube blocks any metal bits from getting back into the reservoir. This worked well too but I've since upgraded to a mister with an independent fluid valve and I reduce my coolant flow so that no liquid builds up in the table but my tools stay cool to the touch and the return system now stays mostly dry.
Hello,
Are you somtimes missing having a bigger spindle bore for you work?
Thanks for your video
I like the lathe chuck spider and mill enclosure the best. I have a Bridgeport mill so a solid enclosure won't work but I think I can come up with something using a clear shower curtain.
Thanks for the ideas.
The square nut on the drawbar on my METRIC mill is 3/8, I had some old worn out 3/8 sockets so I cut of the socket parts from 2 and welded the 3/8 drive squares together cutoff to cuttoff and now i use a 3/8 drive butterfly air wrench to tighten/slacken the drawbar.
I also have a G0602, so I've run into the same issues as you. Something you didn't mention is the clamp ring at the base of the compound; it is very flimsy, and the main culprit of chatter or worse when machining steel. You can realize a lot of improvement by simply using the clamp ring spun 180 degrees, but you won't be able to see the protractor. I have designed and built a new clamp ring which is much stiffer while still allowing a clear view of the protractor. It is stiff enough that I can part off steel using a 1/8" parting blade with no chatter at all.
I have a six-bolt mod on mine, and my gibs cranked down (I need to drill and tap a couple holes for locks like the mill table uses), but I'm still fighting major chatter problems parting off steel. I broke three HSS blades and 7 carbide tips, all making one single cut.
I love these ideas. Only think I'd change, is if you're not sure if your cnc mill is going to launch a part or tool out, maybe swap out the coraplast and shower curtain for some 1/8" polycarbonate. Quite a bit more expensive, but also much more likely to catch a flying metal part.
Just started watching your stuff, awesome. Trying to start my own little hobby set up, any suggestions on how well you like your mill?
Great tips James, thanks for sharing. I modeled and 3D printed lathe tool holders (similar to your chuck key holder) which hook to the backsplash. They don’t slide around, look pretty cool and are super handy. Used the same idea on the Tormach enclosure for hanging the vise handle and dead blow. And 3D printer numerous adapters for the dust collection system where nothing stock seems to fit together. Is there anything the 3D printer can’t do? 😀
Nice chuck key holder, I would add magnets to it in place of the screw holes, also to the 3d printed wedge tool holders mentioned earlier..
Which holder/quick changer do you use here?
Seems like a useful addition...
Oh man that 3D printed chuck key holder is brilliant. I'm going to have to steal that. Right now I just have a 2x4 sitting on the front of the lathe with a bunch of holes drilled in it holding my chuck keys and wrenches and so forth much less elegant 🤣
at 8:33 your dog tip cap screw for the tail stock spindle. you may want to cut another half thread off and under cut the dog tip slightly so the dog tip rides just barely inside the keyway..not at the top surface of the keyway.. so it can't raise a burr as you exert torque on the spindle with big drills..
at 6:34 your tool post top nut.. machine a taller version. like a coupling nut. machine off all but the bottom inch of hex.. where the wrench will live.. the upper part is smooth so you can lift the wrench without it coming all the way off to get a new grab on the nut.. but.. create this new nut tall enough that you can create a cap nut to go in that has a hex or double D shape on the flange OD.. and a drilled and tapped hole for some kind of camera mount.. easily allowing you to mount a camera on top of the tool post. one might modify a air hose quck connect plug to screw into the top of the nut.. and a plug for the end of the coupler to mount a camera bracket on... allowing a crazy quick disconnect camera mount that won't obstruct the wrench removal for more than 2 seconds. might need to look at Double hex drivers and a double hex bolt to fit in the coupler so you can index the coupler on the double hex bit on the top of the plug.. so it does not swivel.. you could also.. change one coupler ball to a larger diameter.. and dimple the groove on the plug.. so you could index the camera angle in a second by pulling the collar up.
on your mill quill bolt. create a broach to punch a 8mm square hole thru some grade 8 nuts. so you are not wearing the tips of the square drive.. but the cheap grade 8 nuts using a conventional socket.. or even an adapter you make to live on the quill bolt top.. when i have a bunch of holes to tap in hard places.. i drive a properly sized hex nut on my tap square drive ends so i can get a better bite on it with a wrench. i used to fix cars a lot. i.imgur.com/Vv09FT1.jpg
thank you, great tips. I also have a G0602 but my chuck holder is on the front. I did not buy the stand rather I put mine on an old Craftsman cabinet I have. I had a plywood flat the lathe sits on and, on the edge of that, I screwed down an extremely flat box end 3/4 hex wrench I found at a flea market. Cut off all but the end then drill two holes. its a good sold steel holder for the chuck key. now your under chuck chip tray I am about to build just like you have out of a old microwave casing. FINE TIPS> Keep'em coming!!
The best modification in my shop, is yours ELS system. 👍🏻
if i had a shop i'd be using all of these tips. but hey! many ppl start a shop with no tips whatsoever. im lucky to have learned so many things before hand!
Big thumbs up to the lathe spider - will be fabricating one of those 👍🏻
Great video James / you are an engineer that gets the job done / you do great work! - I especially like the jack screws for leveling /setup of your lathe- done right / you are inspiring me to similar content on my channel 👍🏻 / not sure I can match the production quality though -haha / keep it up!
Great stuff, my next project is a chuck spider.
For that anti-rotation screw, in a similar application, i machined a brass 'plug' that is screwed onto the 'adjuster' screw, so that it is a brass part against the steel slot, guarantees that it never damages the slot, and gives just a bit of adjustable 'drag '
As always James, outstanding video. What’s funny is that most of your improvements are also mine. I started with a lathe way cover made of leather (inspired by Stefan Gotteswinter) and I moved to two branded sheets of metal overlaping. I also have the habit to hook systematically the chuck key on a plastic (PMMA) support bolted on the lathe structure. I would really appreciate some protection around my small Sixis S101 mill, however, there are cranks everywhere (it is not CNCed) and the few attempts to install screens where not successful at all. I also made a spindle block, but I shall confess that your project was my source of inspiration 😀 many thanks.
I'm a little behind the times, since I just found the channel, but I had a thought while watching the tool post grinder series. How about a hook/holder for your air ratchet on the front of the mill enclosure? That would keep you from having to go down to the floor for it. One for the air gun might be handy as well, and maybe even the vice handle.
This is the first video I’ve seen of yours and really enjoyed seeing your improvements. 👍
I like the idea of the cover for the ways. I may do mine out of something clear like plexiglass and leave room under it for the carriage stop that actuates the feed rod clutch.
here's a thought on that toolpost wrench. I'd build up a portion of the wrench with some welding on the outside of the nut - holding area then I'd mill a flat on that welded up area. Next I'd bore and thread for a decent sized set screw. Move the wrench so that the set screw is over a flat on the nut and tighten using low strength Loctite. Now you don't have to go looking for the wrench. It's always there :)
.... and if ya really want to go to town, I'd drill a dimple in the nut for the set screw to lock into.
Re the chuck key holder, add more security by adding switch connected to VFD enable. If key in place = OK // if not = NO GO
Cheers from Sweden
Bengt
There are many times when I jog or spin up the machine while holding the chuck key. Your idea is great for people that don't operate lathes often/regularly but having to put the key back every time I want to start the lathe would never work for me.
@@frijoli9579 That's until you forget to take it and it ruins your day or worse.
Lots of nice little upgrades, and DRO is a must especially if using machine that you need to do metric and imperial on imo
hey @clough42, I tested a 6mm 12pt on a Grizzly Mill per the tip at @14:30 and It seems a 9mm works, not a 6mm for the 8mm square. Can you make a note so that others can order the correct one? Thanks for the tips!
Great video! I hope you meant a 9mm 12 point socket would fit the 8mm drawbar on the G0759. I’m sure the 6mm won’t fit.
4:32 Do you have diagram (draw) of the lathe spider ? I will print it on 3D printer
One way to straighten out a small piece in the chuck is to put a drill chuck in the tail stock. Bring the tail stock close. Put the part in the lathe chuck and tighten very slightly, just enough to hold it. Then bring the jaws of the drill chuck inside the chuck. Bring the chuck to the work and using the tail stock hand wheel, push the part into the lathe chuck until it’s where you need it. As long as the part is somewhere close to parallel, the works very well. Then just tighten the lathe chuck.
Alternatively, you can get a Morse taper and make a large flat and put it on the end. Make it perpendicular to the work, and you can use that for larger pieces.
This isn’t absolutely perfect, but for most work, it’s more than good enough. But for really precise work I have a tool with replaceable parallels of different depths that fit into the lathe chuck will keep the part accurate to 0.001”. But it’s mostly not needed.
Smart idea with the spindle lock, but never forget when it’s locked! Maybe something that will slip or break away if the motor is mistakenly turned on.
Great video! I couldn’t understand where to get the dimensions and drawings for the mill enclosure. Where would I find them?
New to all of this other than three years of you and TH-cam. Have first lathe. How thick is the aluminum you used? Thanks.
I think it's 1". Probably overkill, but it's what I found in the scrap bin.
One more question. I have a Precision Matthews 1228. It has an 11” casting “foot” under the headstock and a 6” foot under the tail; each have two holes for securing the lathe to the bench. Before ordering 11x19 and 6x19 aluminum plates, in your estimation, will two jackscrews on either end be sufficient for leveling or should I research another leveling option? Thanks for your consideration.
Here's a mill tip from me.....
Move your vice toward one end of the table - as far as it'll go and still be fully accessible for use. There are 2 benefits:
1. It'll move regular slide wear to one end of the table (The table has 2 ends but only one middle)
2. It'll leave more table space for clamping directly to it without the need to remove the vice such that it loses its alignment.
How do you get the wrench to fit so tightly on the toolpost nut? Mine flops around a bit even though it's the right size - 19mm. I'd like the wrench to fit snug but not sure how to modify it to do so.
Excellent tip on the tailstock anti-rotation screw!
A proper method would be to make a flat piece of f brass with a spot hole on top. The screw pointed a little bit to fit in the spot hole. Drive out the quill, inserted flat in the key way and drive it back till you can find the spot hole through the tailstock hole. Insert screw with lock not on it, adjust and lock. That will have a proper smooth and strong hold, not like a screw that is tangent to a flat, not so good...
I thought of something, tell me what you think. Do you know how PCs used to have a spread frequency option to minimize EMI? What if the VFD spindle speed had an automatic variable speed mode- do you think it would help to eliminate tool chatter? I seem to get that too often...
Yes. Some CNC machines have this option for the spindle for exactly this reason. Okuma calls their feature HSSC (Harmonic Spindle Speed Control). Other manufacturers have similar features.
@@Clough42 That was was embarrassingly easy to find with an internet search! They have a whitepaper and a TH-cam video demonstration, in which the spindle speed changes more than I was imagining. Maybe a quick Arduino project would be all that is required.
do you have any material that goes over your lathe stand construction? I'm a woodworker dipping my toes into machine work and the grizzly lathe is the first thing I'm getting - i was hoping I could make a stand out of doubled-up 3/4" plywood and fill it with drawers. Would love some details on how you built your bench! (and also, would you change anything - more space in front, or behind, etc)
The construction is similar to the miter bench featured on The New Yankee Workshop several decades ago. It's a 3/4" plywood cabinet carcass, with a half-lapped grid of 2x4's on top, a sheet of 3/4" plywood, and a sheet of 1/4" Masonite hardboard, wrapped with oak edging.
Cool mods. The bed adjustment system is cool but your loosing a lot of rigidity. I have a comparable lathe and tried this same similar setup and found that the bed would twist a few thou with very minimal pressure. Just traversing the carriage from one end to the threw it out .003". I fixed this by mounted it to a 3/4" steel plate spanning from one end of the bed to the other and used machine epoxy to level it. Try putting a dial indicator from the bed to the table and watch how much flex is actually occurring. Thanks for posting! I enjoy your content.
I made a version of your way protector for my lathe and found it was more of a hindrance than an advantage as when using a stop I could not see the stop. Made it difficult to set and use. Tried perspex which was ok , but prone to cracking. In the end I ditched the whole idea.
James, your lathe VFD upgrade videos are extremely helpful, Thank You! I followed your videos to upgrade/repair my lathe last summer when it's stock motor and electrical components failed, they were 40 years old. I use a 110 v to 220 v step-up transformer to generate 220 v for the 2 HP VFD and 2 HP 3 phase motor, this works very well for anyone who does not have easy access to 220 v power. The lathe now runs super smooth, has way more turning power and having the instant infinite variable speed control at your fingertips helps dial in excellent cutting results. Your are a great teacher and your channel provides excellent content, thank you again and all the best.
@Barry Manilowa I think he meant 220V 3-phase.
Coroplast has gone up a bit, bought a 10pk of black & white special order from HD for like $110. Closest equivalent now is $155/10pk. Bought it for a Hackaday Prize entry project heat exchanger but all those remnants are going to be put to use now!
I was wondering if you considered replacing the sheet metal panel and if so why you decided to add the box instead
I made a tray that fits in a similar fashion to your chuck key holder, only comes into the space rather than behind it. It has two large holes which hold those tapered anti spill paint pots, having oils & brushes in. I've used sheet metal (sprayed to match my lathe). Also another that holds torx keys. I don't have a 3D printer.
I always write the original contents of a bottle on it's side in really big red letters. It's never once been of any help at all.
Well, somebody has to prop up the big red sharpie market...
Why hasn't this labelling helped? I label everything. I even label the labels. It's redundant, but self-referencing.
Lots of good stuff. I really like your machine enclosure. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent tips for the home workshop.
Thanks for sharing.
Great videos! I am late getting to them. Curious what your opinion is on the lathe and that size after years of use? Thinking about a PM1022 or something of similar size.
I e always known a spider as a tool that mounts on the back of the spindle to center a long work piece that runs through the spindle bore, I use mine for blueprinting rifle barrels
Very nice bed levelers.
How do you know it's a bad thing to leave a parallel inside the chuck and spin it up?
Ligius Ah ha! James left an example of what happened in one of his videos ..... BobUK
Suggestion for spider. Take .25 x .75 (& 1 & 1.25 & so on) by 6-8" long. Bend at 120 degree, then weld same stock (1/2 OAL) weld on at 120 degree. Mill / grind parallel. Put that behind your part. It will spin, but can not fall out.
Is it bad to put the cutter in the collet first before putting the collet in the spindle and drawing it up on the mill?
Not necessarily. It's more things to hang on to and easier to drop.
Love your channel James up here in the great white north.
Slightly off subject but I have a CX706 lathe and having issue with the always apron leaking oil. I can't seem to find were the leak is coming from but there is always some drops on the bottom of the apron. Wonder if you had an issue with that or anyone else on this channel might have a solution.
Again great channel learn a lot for it.
nice to see someone using light weight materials like coroplast instead of 1/4" steel.
You chat about your RPM meter and your electronic lead screw system, where can I see these projects?
Fred Madsen
Love the key holder! I'll remix for my lathe which has a larger 'turn over' at the top of the chip guard.
How to check and remove backlash on the spindle of a Grizzly G9972 lathe. Thanks for the answer
THANK YOU Sir for sharing your knowledge and tips! NOW, I need to start figuring out how to operate my used mill and lathe... LOL
Hello,
Does this leveling system for your lathe finally provide enough strength to make you happy or you need to consider modifying later on? Thanks
Make a chuck key holder that detects a magnet glued to your lathe key so that the lathe has an interlock requiring the key to be sensed before spinning up!
It can be a magnetic microswitch or more exotic like a hall sensor and circuit.
I have the same lathe. The compound is seriously weak on these machines. You're going to want to make a block to mount your tool holder on so you can remove the compound when you're not using it. It really helps in increasing rigidity.
It's on my list of things to do, but I think the cross slide also needs a little attention on this particular specimin.
OK sir...You hooked me... I am now a subscriber...
I hope that this text finds you Question I have look for the motor that was installed on the 602 lathe they informed me that this motor was discontinued.
Is there any other place were I can get this motor or one like it thanks.
Outstanding video James! I'll be using some of those same mods. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing!
How did you get such a nice/shiny finish on that 3D print?
I like your workshop !
Thanks for the video and for sharing the great upgrade ideas. Question about the milling coolant - how is it captured? i assume it is an open loop system where the coolant is captured and then manually recycled?
Funny that you mentioned Blondie Hacks because I found your channel through her's. Good times...
Thanks James
Im really enjoying your shows, friend! Im at the transition point of retiring and getting on with updating my shop tooling to include a lathe and mill with some CNC ability. Ive been a Cad pilot almost all my life starting with Autocad 2.2 but only current to 2004. I hope you dont pull a This Ol Tony on me and stop youtubing. Thanks for your efforts!
I don't think Tony wanted his life to change the way it did, either.
Hi James! Regarding the CNC conversion of your Grizzly mill. I have an extremely similar Bernardo KF 25 Pro (from Austria) and I'm also interested to convert it to CNC. How did you handle the backlash of the lead screws? And do you have more information on the conversion? Thanks, Hansi
Lead screws are replaced with single or double ball screws. Looks like he has the Hoss designed cnc and it appears to be the phase 3 setup so most likely the double ball screws.
I AM IN THE PROCESS OF ASSEMBLING AN ELS ON MY MINI LATHE. ON MY ELS BOOST V2.1 MFG 9/2019 THE 8 PIN U2 I THINK IT IS CALLED DCRON IS MISSING. IT SEEMS TO BE ON ALL OF THE ONES I SEE PICTURED? IS THIS IMPORTANT? THANKS DON DAVIS
There should be a card in the package explaining the missing chip. It isn't used, so it won't affect operation.
Even tho it wasn't your idea, the chip tray on the lathe is one I think I will attempt on my Mori Seiki just for the ease of chip removal. I also like the 3D printed bottle to clamp the tube.
Baking pans from Bed Bath & Beyond, Set of three sizes for $10. The medium and small fit perfect under my lathe.
This channel is excellent! Really really nicely explained and presented - subbed!
I'm new to your channel and have learned a lot. Thanks!
Hi Clough42, did you check the runout on the Ebay ER20 collets? Do you think 0.002 runout is ok for manual and CNC on a small machine like the PM25 or G704 (I bought 10 of them, 5 of them are 0.001" or less runout, I'm wondering if I should return the ones that are 0.002" - 0.0025" runout.
Please recommend a lathe mill combo for hobby work or separate recommendation if you think.
You only get what you pay for is a very true phrase..........if you cannot afford to go the expensive way with machinery then fixing up a new lathe to make it run good or fixing up an oldie but goody that has seen better days is an exercise in workability if you are capable.......don't contemplate ever getting an old worn out machine if you have no machining experience........at the same time a budget is the first step to realizing any machinery acquisition and what you want to do will determine the type of machinery you'll be looking for.
Any chance of using flood coolant once you upgrade the spindle? I never could get the same results with mist systems that I did with flood, especially at the higher rpm. Feels like once you get to about 8-10k rpm it’s easy to have a feature than blocks the most for a moment and it’s instant welded chips and broken end mill. Flood coolant was annoying at first but can’t imagine not using it now.