Thank you Ron, great plans. I’m glad you developed such a bench. This will be coming with me to my on site work, as well as being used in the shop also. I can’t wait to build the saw horses. I’m honored you were able to watch the video.
Great build! It’s an excellent example of what can be done with a tracksaw and a few quality accessories. You have been a huge influence on my woodworking. Look forward to seeing the new workbench in use!🤙
Great job, I’ve got tons of respect for your commitment to accuracy and precision… and I found your narration to be very helpful as well. Your videos have given me a better appreciation for next level accuracy in my layout & measurements. Many thanks!! Keep up the great work sir. 👊🏼
Hey there Anthony! Great video. I am assembling my SMART bench today after making all the parts last weekend. I bought a Parf Guide Mk2 to layout the holes and it was well worth the money to have that tool available for CnC precision of the dog holes. After assembly, I am building two SMART karts and then the SMART station. Again, thanks for a great video!
Nice job Anthony. I bought Ron's plans a few months back as well and will be making a paulk style bench very soon too. Mine will be smaller though, so I'll be using the plans as a reference rather than instructions. The parf guide is probably my favorite tool I've gotten since my dowelmax. I bought a 1000mm parf fence as well. Keep it goin!
Yesterday finally got the time to build my workbench and trying out the track saw method for cutting the openings on the side elements is golden, it was quite easy to do with no mistakes basically, thanks for the idea. I was using my Festool for the first time and mind blown how easy was it.
Awesome, Ron is a great craftsman and one of TH-cam’s carpentry pioneers. even though anyone can build this bench, he took the time to develop it, work out the kinks and share the plans for a such a low price, so I’m happy to direct people to his site.
I was given a couple of these not to long ago. They are the longer tables that can be attached together for a wider table. The guy that built them used 1/2 inch plywood, they're solid.
Great vid! This has me thinking…I think it would be really cool to make a few smaller versions of this table in a modular size so that you could make four and join them to make a big square, or line them up in a row, or make an L shape. And I would use the clamps (the name of the clamp is eluding my thoughts, but it’s just like the type of clamp that the TSO GRS uses to attach to the track) to attach the tables together
Your videos are fantastic, I’m thinking about making this same bench soon. I know you have the TSO Parallel guides and I was was wondering which length rail you use the most often and which would be the most useful to a new woodworker? I really appreciate the content you make, thank you for taking the time to do it.
I use the 30 most often but the 20’s are also a size that would be used frequently. I’ve been in contact with TSO about the 20’s and I am trying to acquire them for a video showing how beneficial those are for a variety of reasons. If you’re looking for your first ones, then the 30’s will be the most Versatile. I have my affiliate links in the description.
Awesome, I really appreciate your input. I will be sure to use your link when I purchase that set of 30” rails. Thank you so much for your response. Have a great weekend.
I’m building this bench but plan to sue a sheet of pegboard and an easy jig to reference from the pegboard holes to bore the holes for my bench dogs and clamps. My thought is it save a lot of time and potential for error. If you build multiple Pauli benches, the pegboard can be reused as a jig.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you. Enjoy your channel very much. I’m not a Fesstool guy but am very I,pressed with how you have put together a shop with the Fesstool product line. Thanks again.
Well I just went over Ron’s plans list 4 times and he has either doubled his price or you have a copy of his original plans or you misspoke but his workbench plans are either $20 or $50 depending on which package you purchase. Seems a bit steep of an increase (100%) for a pdf file in 10 months since this video came out. Think I’ll try to find his old video when he built the first workbench and if I can’t find it, I’ll just have to build one without the plans. Nice demonstration on your part.
When I filmed this video, I purchased the plans for the price I stated. I’m sure he must have raised the price since then if you are seeing $20 or $50.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 sort of figured that, probably went up the first of the year. I found most of the old videos so I shouldn’t have a problem adapting to my size requirements. I have the same workhorses you do and I use them for an infeed and assembly table so I’ll have to maintain the same height and adjust the height of the legs to accommodate the height of the Paulk style workbench.
I say the top weighs roughly about 60 pounds. In another video, I make the matching foldable legs, they only weigh about 3-5 pounds each. Don’t forget to watch that video. I use a router with a pattern bit to make them
Anthony when you cut the full length sheets, are you using two 55" Festool tracks or a one piece? Thank you for leading me to Ron Paulk. I got his plans and adapting it to my single car garage shop. Appreciate the video!
Hi, thats a great looking bench. Would using say 9mm ply on the bottom make it a bit lighter? Also i noticed that you screwed the top dowm. Wont you hit them with your track saw?
Using 9mm ply would make the bench very weak. I don’t cut into the bench with a track saw, I use sacrificial strips or rigid foam board on top if I’m cutting on it, which eliminates any damage to the bench top or hitting any screws. Most of the time I use the mft’s or stm1800 when using my track saw anyway.
@AnthonyScolaro1 hi, I get what you are saying about using a foam pad on top of the table for ripping and so avoiding the screws but as the bottom is resting on saw horses why do you believe a sheet of 9mm is insufficient? I love your videos.
@@danthechippie4439 9mm is less than half an inch thick and just 3mm thicker than 1/4 inch. Ron Paulk himself (the inventor of this design) doesn’t even recommend using something as thin as half inch on it. The bottom will bend and possibly break with any downward pressure from heavy materials or you working on it. I can stand on this bench and jump up and down on it and it doesn’t even budge. I’ve stacked multiple cabinets and cabinet parts on it with no movement whatsoever. I would say 9mm is equivalent to roughly 3/8” which may seem strong as a small panel but a large surface that thin will have many weak points. I just don’t want to see you waste your money on it and it fails.
@@AnthonyScolaro1hi, thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I take on board what you have said and I appreciate your advice. I will forget about the 9mm and use 18mm as directed. I was just pitching an idea see if I could save some weight
In my opinion, it would be to weak and flexible to maintain flatness, and make it unbalanced to carry and lift in place because it would be more top heavy. You also don’t have the option to flip it over and use the other side if you damage the top. 1/2” does not do well as a stabilizer or work surface. But no one says you can’t do it. It’s all up to you. Things like this are customizable to your liking.
I do a lot of on site work, so instead of lugging the bench around, I put it on a dolly and roll it everywhere. I might even install some small detachable casters on one side
U used to bring my MFT tables for on site work but I use this Paulk bench now and I made the foldable sawhorses that go with it. I have a video where I show how I made them, it’s my “template routing” video.
I saw in another video you mentioned you had a Prius, and can't fit 4x8. I can't fit them in my car either. Do you get these delivered instead? Thanks! Loving your content
Nice build. I am curious about the Parf Guide cutter. I have seen most MFT benches using MDF tops. How does the cutter work on your (birch?) plywood? Worried about tear out on the circumference, since this 20 mm bit doesn't seem to score the edge like a Forstner bit.
It’s a very clean cut on top and through but on plywood, you need something underneath to combat tear out on the opposite side. I don’t care about the tear out on the bottom because these are workbenches.
Im about to buy the drawings for the Paulk smart bench i think its called as it houses a mitre / table saw as well as being an asssembly bench. Do you have plans to make one? If so id love to hear your thoughts
@@danthechippie4439 I do not plan to build one because I now have a big shop where I can leave all my tools in a dedicated location without losing any space. If you head to my channel, you will see a new shop tour and a few videos in the new shop with many more videos ready to be edited. I really don’t have a need for the smart bench, however if you are tight on space or do a lot of jobsite work, it may be worth it for you. I like the Paulk bench but I never felt the need for a smart bench on jobsites because I had my miter saw and table saw on wheeled folding stands.
Hi again. Just thought id say i received the smart bench from Ron and for some reason i thought they be in metric but instead they are in imperial with some metric drawings. Did you find that with yours? I also noticed on page one you can click on a toll list but mine were emailed so i can't click on anything @AnthonyScolaro1
Thank you for your good work with your videos. However the audio is very difficult to understand due to echoing. Please change your microphone system. Thank you again
Very nice video! Very clear, nice editing. Love the workshop you have, but especially the attention to personal protection! A follow-up question : what's the reasoning behind the material choice here? Most MFT tops seem to be made of MDF, but the paulk workbench usually from plywood. I guess there are advantages to both e.g. weight, durability, adding a chamfer, ... Did you protect the surface with something?
MDF is heavy and since this is being transported back and forth to job sites, mdf would damage way too easily. I didn’t use a finish on it because then the surface gets slippery and when you are trying to work on something, it slides all over the table. No need for a finish here.
Perhaps I’m missing something…. Doesn’t gluing the top (in addition to screwing it) on to the frame make it that much more difficult, if not impractical, to replace that top should you eventually need to?
It would take over 20 years to have to replace the top. This is only a work table that will not be cut into with any saw, it will not be drilled into at all because I will be using either foam boards under the piece that is being cut or scrap strips of plywood supports. Not to mention you can flip it over and make dog holes on the bottom and then use that for a top as well, adding another 20 plus years of use. I’m sure Ron Paulk himself can attest to that as well, he’s proven it over many years of use and abuse.
I know you used the TSO 50" parallel guides to cut the bench top and bottom to final width, but could you have used the 30" parallel guide rails instead to make this cut? I ask this because I'm planning to buy the 30" parallel guide rail kit since I believe it will work for most of the cuts I need to do. Thx
You can, but for this length it would be more work. You would have to square one side, then square the opposite side off of the same reference edge, then measure off of the original square edge, then use the 30” parallel guides on the opposite edge to get to your line but you have to also account for the 2mm thickness of the blade. In my opinion, the easiest thing to do is rip your top to width using the parallel guides and then to cut it to length, square one edge with the guide rail square, then measure off that edge and cut the opposite end to length using a guide rail square again, then cut the bottom piece of the workbench a little oversized, lay the top on it and use a router with a flush trim bit to make them exact to each other. I hope this makes sense to you.
You are definitely a Festool guy. What is the reasoning behind the 2 layers giving you a big open middle. Is it just to lay some tools and collect sawdust.
very nice work table , i'm an installer and wondering what ply you used and the real weight of the table .. i'm getting older and want to make a table as big as I can without getting "too" heavy to deal with .. thanks ! :)
Nice- enjoying your channel. So you’re a tablesaw free shop? Kewl. Dumb question though - why didn’t you rip the top and and bottom at the same time instead of only stacking them for length?
It’s part of the Parf guide system. I have a whole video on it. I show you all the parts and how the system works completely. Make sure you check that out and you will see the difference bits that make the holes.
I love track saws! But to me a table saw is a must have. Do you not have space anymore? I started following you way back to a ridged saw video way way ago. Lol😂I do know I’d love. E an mft table
I did cut both sheets at the same time on the long crosscut. However if you’re trying to make all the cuts on both sheets all at once, you still need to align them or you’re wasting material and you run the risk of one of the sheets moving, especially when these sheets are not straight and have warping. That method is fine if you’re doing rough work but not for precise cuts. You can do that on smaller pieces on the MFT.
@@bobfre1 once again, pay attention to what I said at around the 2:00 minute mark, because I have the parallel guides, cutting the width separately is repeatable but the width of these are too wide to set up a stop block on the MFT at that point to have repeatability for cutting the length. That’s why I cut them together for the length, so there’s no chance of human error when cutting without some sort of stop block. And there’s no reason why you can’t cut both piece at the same time for length and width, I just find it easier to handle and break down one sheet at a time. Smaller pieces are easier to work with.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 No, I get it.... the parallel guides are great, but why not cut them together for exactly the same reasons.... eliminate a cut, eliminate possible error, and save some time and effort removing and replacing the top board?
@bobfre1 either way would be correct. honestly I’ve tried that before but lining up two full sheets is very difficult and you still have to straight line rip one edge to have a good reference side. It can be done but it’s harder to keep full multiple sheets lined up.
@@peglegthered no one said you had to use the same tools, it’s what I have. I do this on a professional level everyday. You can use what you have to do the job. No need to criticize.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Yeah that's true. I actually finished the video. There's some good process in there for keeping reference edges. Thumbs up. If you get a chance in the future, perhaps rephrase the part about the smart bench plans in different manner? I don't quite know why but having to repeat that they're paid plans makes it come off that you're talking down to your viewers. I think we all understood that he worked hard to come up with the design. It's as if we're here looking to rip off the plans. Just my opinion.
@@peglegthered I would never try and be demeaning to any of you, because we are a TH-cam family here and all of you make this channel keep going. However, I’ll let you in on a little secret without giving up any names…even after saying it repeatedly in the video, I still received emails for copies of the plans, specific measurements and some people even offered me $2.00 for the plans, which at the time of this video, the plans were only $10.00 from Ron’s website, so if you think I didn’t have to say it, well, there’s your answer. I just tried to let everyone know I was not going to undercut Ron Paulk.
Great build, Anthony! I know it would be a lot of extra work, but what do you think about routing grooves in the top and bottom sheets to receive the frame pieces? Do you think the added glue surface would be worth it, or do you think the juice wouldn't be worth the squeeze?
That would be good for alignment purposes, and you really wouldn’t be adding much extra glue surface at all but for a quick build like this and it’s only a workbench, it’s much easier and faster to do it the way I did here. That’s not to say if you wanted to you couldn’t, I just couldn’t waste that much time because I’ve already been using it on job sites. Strength wise, the glue and screws are more than enough.
That comment is childish, the person who writes these plans sells them. I’m not authorized to give them out and yet I still get people emailing and asking me for the Measurements, so yes I have to treat some of you like children because you do not pay attention.
@@AnthonyScolaro1Totally agree with you Anthony. For this person to post such a ridiculous (and nonsensical) comment is just sad. And all because you demonstrated class and respect for Paulk and wanted him to get credit for his work? Very unfortunate. Keep up the great work Anthony! Onward and upward sir!! 👊🏼
Anthony, nice build. I look forward to seeing more of your videos. 😎🤙
Thank you Ron, great plans. I’m glad you developed such a bench. This will be coming with me to my on site work, as well as being used in the shop also. I can’t wait to build the saw horses. I’m honored you were able to watch the video.
Nice work. Agree the Ron Paulk plans are worth buying. Great to see a TH-camr promoting the designer.
Great build! It’s an excellent example of what can be done with a tracksaw and a few quality accessories. You have been a huge influence on my woodworking. Look forward to seeing the new workbench in use!🤙
Great job, I’ve got tons of respect for your commitment to accuracy and precision… and I found your narration to be very helpful as well.
Your videos have given me a better appreciation for next level accuracy in my layout & measurements. Many thanks!!
Keep up the great work sir. 👊🏼
Hey there Anthony! Great video. I am assembling my SMART bench today after making all the parts last weekend. I bought a Parf Guide Mk2 to layout the holes and it was well worth the money to have that tool available for CnC precision of the dog holes. After assembly, I am building two SMART karts and then the SMART station. Again, thanks for a great video!
Nice job Anthony. I bought Ron's plans a few months back as well and will be making a paulk style bench very soon too. Mine will be smaller though, so I'll be using the plans as a reference rather than instructions. The parf guide is probably my favorite tool I've gotten since my dowelmax. I bought a 1000mm parf fence as well. Keep it goin!
I just discovered your channel. Your videos are awesome and you are an excellent teacher. Thank you for your content.
recently discovered your channel. nice work! thanks for not having crappy music!
Yesterday finally got the time to build my workbench and trying out the track saw method for cutting the openings on the side elements is golden, it was quite easy to do with no mistakes basically, thanks for the idea. I was using my Festool for the first time and mind blown how easy was it.
Glad to hear it!
New sub added - great video and awesome workshop! Greetings from the UK.
Just purchased the plans for this workbench. Thanks Anthony.
Awesome, Ron is a great craftsman and one of TH-cam’s carpentry pioneers. even though anyone can build this bench, he took the time to develop it, work out the kinks and share the plans for a such a low price, so I’m happy to direct people to his site.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 absolutely agree. You’re a good man Anthony.
I was given a couple of these not to long ago. They are the longer tables that can be attached together for a wider table. The guy that built them used 1/2 inch plywood, they're solid.
Great vid! This has me thinking…I think it would be really cool to make a few smaller versions of this table in a modular size so that you could make four and join them to make a big square, or line them up in a row, or make an L shape. And I would use the clamps (the name of the clamp is eluding my thoughts, but it’s just like the type of clamp that the TSO GRS uses to attach to the track) to attach the tables together
Your videos are fantastic, I’m thinking about making this same bench soon. I know you have the TSO Parallel guides and I was was wondering which length rail you use the most often and which would be the most useful to a new woodworker? I really appreciate the content you make, thank you for taking the time to do it.
I use the 30 most often but the 20’s are also a size that would be used frequently. I’ve been in contact with TSO about the 20’s and I am trying to acquire them for a video showing how beneficial those are for a variety of reasons. If you’re looking for your first ones, then the 30’s will be the most Versatile. I have my affiliate links in the description.
Awesome, I really appreciate your input. I will be sure to use your link when I purchase that set of 30” rails. Thank you so much for your response. Have a great weekend.
You have a great weekend also and thank you for supporting the channel and being part of my TH-cam family!
Love your videos thank you for sharing. ??? Do you have a video show how to made your work table. Thank you
Sure do, here’s the link-
th-cam.com/video/LcFoh95oqfw/w-d-xo.html
Nice work! Good description of things as you went through things. Thank you for sharing!
as always----great video thanx rick
Nice video AS!
I’m building this bench but plan to sue a sheet of pegboard and an easy jig to reference from the pegboard holes to bore the holes for my bench dogs and clamps. My thought is it save a lot of time and potential for error. If you build multiple Pauli benches, the pegboard can be reused as a jig.
Years ago I made a video showing how to use pegboard to make bench dog holes. You can find it on my channel.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you. Enjoy your channel very much. I’m not a Fesstool guy but am very I,pressed with how you have put together a shop with the Fesstool product line. Thanks again.
@@flexmasterson4297 glad to hear your enjoying the content!
Do you remember what brand saw horses you’re using with that table?
Well I just went over Ron’s plans list 4 times and he has either doubled his price or you have a copy of his original plans or you misspoke but his workbench plans are either $20 or $50 depending on which package you purchase.
Seems a bit steep of an increase (100%) for a pdf file in 10 months since this video came out. Think I’ll try to find his old video when he built the first workbench and if I can’t find it, I’ll just have to build one without the plans.
Nice demonstration on your part.
When I filmed this video, I purchased the plans for the price I stated. I’m sure he must have raised the price since then if you are seeing $20 or $50.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 sort of figured that, probably went up the first of the year. I found most of the old videos so I shouldn’t have a problem adapting to my size requirements. I have the same workhorses you do and I use them for an infeed and assembly table so I’ll have to maintain the same height and adjust the height of the legs to accommodate the height of the Paulk style workbench.
Thanks so much for this. As others have said it is good to see someone making it without a CNC machine. PLEASE can you tell me how much it weighs +/-?
I say the top weighs roughly about 60 pounds. In another video, I make the matching foldable legs, they only weigh about 3-5 pounds each. Don’t forget to watch that video. I use a router with a pattern bit to make them
Anthony when you cut the full length sheets, are you using two 55" Festool tracks or a one piece? Thank you for leading me to Ron Paulk. I got his plans and adapting it to my single car garage shop. Appreciate the video!
I’m using the 3000mm rail. One piece. The 3000 rail is roughly 119 inches long. Just under 10 feet.
How many sheets does it take to build
Hi, thats a great looking bench. Would using say 9mm ply on the bottom make it a bit lighter?
Also i noticed that you screwed the top dowm. Wont you hit them with your track saw?
Using 9mm ply would make the bench very weak. I don’t cut into the bench with a track saw, I use sacrificial strips or rigid foam board on top if I’m cutting on it, which eliminates any damage to the bench top or hitting any screws. Most of the time I use the mft’s or stm1800 when using my track saw anyway.
@AnthonyScolaro1 hi, I get what you are saying about using a foam pad on top of the table for ripping and so avoiding the screws but as the bottom is resting on saw horses why do you believe a sheet of 9mm is insufficient? I love your videos.
@@danthechippie4439 9mm is less than half an inch thick and just 3mm thicker than 1/4 inch. Ron Paulk himself (the inventor of this design) doesn’t even recommend using something as thin as half inch on it. The bottom will bend and possibly break with any downward pressure from heavy materials or you working on it. I can stand on this bench and jump up and down on it and it doesn’t even budge. I’ve stacked multiple cabinets and cabinet parts on it with no movement whatsoever. I would say 9mm is equivalent to roughly 3/8” which may seem strong as a small panel but a large surface that thin will have many weak points. I just don’t want to see you waste your money on it and it fails.
@@AnthonyScolaro1hi, thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I take on board what you have said and I appreciate your advice. I will forget about the 9mm and use 18mm as directed. I was just pitching an idea see if I could save some weight
Nice .. how much does the table weight?
About as much as one full sheet of plywood
If you don't have the parf guide system, can you use the festool drilling guide rail to mark the holes?
Absolutely
Fantastic content, and great video and audio quality! What do you think about using 1/2" plywood on the bottom of the bench for weight reduction?
In my opinion, it would be to weak and flexible to maintain flatness, and make it unbalanced to carry and lift in place because it would be more top heavy. You also don’t have the option to flip it over and use the other side if you damage the top. 1/2” does not do well as a stabilizer or work surface. But no one says you can’t do it. It’s all up to you. Things like this are customizable to your liking.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Ah...good points. Thanks, Anthony!
I do a lot of on site work, so instead of lugging the bench around, I put it on a dolly and roll it everywhere. I might even install some small detachable casters on one side
Another great video Anthony. What portable table or saw horse system do you use for your job site work??
U used to bring my MFT tables for on site work but I use this Paulk bench now and I made the foldable sawhorses that go with it. I have a video where I show how I made them, it’s my “template routing” video.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thx so much. Will check it out.
I saw in another video you mentioned you had a Prius, and can't fit 4x8. I can't fit them in my car either. Do you get these delivered instead? Thanks! Loving your content
Prius? That definitely wasn’t me, I’ve owned Silverado pickup trucks for the last 12 years, and muscle cars before that. Never had a Prius in my life.
Nice build. I am curious about the Parf Guide cutter. I have seen most MFT benches using MDF tops. How does the cutter work on your (birch?) plywood? Worried about tear out on the circumference, since this 20 mm bit doesn't seem to score the edge like a Forstner bit.
It’s a very clean cut on top and through but on plywood, you need something underneath to combat tear out on the opposite side. I don’t care about the tear out on the bottom because these are workbenches.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Good to know that works well. Thanks very much for the quick response and ATB.
Hi, did you receive written step by step instructions with the plans, or just the plans?
@@danthechippie4439 there are no written instructions, just the parts list, materials needed and the measurements with drawings.
What is the mobile bench called that you are using to cut down the sheet material on top of?? Thanks 🙏
@@Sam.147 festool stm1800. Usually on backorder, but if you can find it, it’s great for sheet goods.
cant you cut two sheets at a time?
Im about to buy the drawings for the Paulk smart bench i think its called as it houses a mitre / table saw as well as being an asssembly bench.
Do you have plans to make one? If so id love to hear your thoughts
@@danthechippie4439 I do not plan to build one because I now have a big shop where I can leave all my tools in a dedicated location without losing any space. If you head to my channel, you will see a new shop tour and a few videos in the new shop with many more videos ready to be edited. I really don’t have a need for the smart bench, however if you are tight on space or do a lot of jobsite work, it may be worth it for you. I like the Paulk bench but I never felt the need for a smart bench on jobsites because I had my miter saw and table saw on wheeled folding stands.
Hi again. Just thought id say i received the smart bench from Ron and for some reason i thought they be in metric but instead they are in imperial with some metric drawings. Did you find that with yours?
I also noticed on page one you can click on a toll list but mine were emailed so i can't click on anything @AnthonyScolaro1
Great build. I was wondering, what tape measure do you use? Do you find it to be very reliable (accurate?)
I use FastCap metric/standard tape measure. Been using them for two years now. Very accurate and reliable, here’s my associate link-
amzn.to/3Jwqfef
Thank you for your good work with your videos. However the audio is very difficult to understand due to echoing. Please change your microphone system. Thank you again
Very nice video! Very clear, nice editing. Love the workshop you have, but especially the attention to personal protection! A follow-up question : what's the reasoning behind the material choice here? Most MFT tops seem to be made of MDF, but the paulk workbench usually from plywood. I guess there are advantages to both e.g. weight, durability, adding a chamfer, ... Did you protect the surface with something?
MDF is heavy and since this is being transported back and forth to job sites, mdf would damage way too easily. I didn’t use a finish on it because then the surface gets slippery and when you are trying to work on something, it slides all over the table. No need for a finish here.
Perhaps I’m missing something…. Doesn’t gluing the top (in addition to screwing it) on to the frame make it that much more difficult, if not impractical, to replace that top should you eventually need to?
It would take over 20 years to have to replace the top. This is only a work table that will not be cut into with any saw, it will not be drilled into at all because I will be using either foam boards under the piece that is being cut or scrap strips of plywood supports. Not to mention you can flip it over and make dog holes on the bottom and then use that for a top as well, adding another 20 plus years of use. I’m sure Ron Paulk himself can attest to that as well, he’s proven it over many years of use and abuse.
I know you used the TSO 50" parallel guides to cut the bench top and bottom to final width, but could you have used the 30" parallel guide rails instead to make this cut? I ask this because I'm planning to buy the 30" parallel guide rail kit since I believe it will work for most of the cuts I need to do. Thx
You can, but for this length it would be more work. You would have to square one side, then square the opposite side off of the same reference edge, then measure off of the original square edge, then use the 30” parallel guides on the opposite edge to get to your line but you have to also account for the 2mm thickness of the blade. In my opinion, the easiest thing to do is rip your top to width using the parallel guides and then to cut it to length, square one edge with the guide rail square, then measure off that edge and cut the opposite end to length using a guide rail square again, then cut the bottom piece of the workbench a little oversized, lay the top on it and use a router with a flush trim bit to make them exact to each other. I hope this makes sense to you.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thanks
You are definitely a Festool guy. What is the reasoning behind the 2 layers giving you a big open middle. Is it just to lay some tools and collect sawdust.
Tool storage, keeps the workbench clear
Is that 7-layer birch plywood? If so, where do you get it in the NY area?
It’s actually maple plywood. Quality was Just as good
What specific type and grade of plywood did you use for the top of your bench?
18mm furniture/cabinet grade maple from the big box store.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Thanks
What grade of plywood did you use?
Maple, cabinet/furniture grade
Anthony is that Baltic you used? 👊🏻 another great video.
It’s actually Maple plywood, but birch would be just as good.
very nice work table , i'm an installer and wondering what ply you used and the real weight of the table .. i'm getting older and want to make a table as big as I can without getting "too" heavy to deal with .. thanks ! :)
18mm maple ply, about 45 pounds
@@AnthonyScolaro1 awesome ! was that a HD , lowes, or other brand ply?
HD
Nice- enjoying your channel. So you’re a tablesaw free shop? Kewl. Dumb question though - why didn’t you rip the top and and bottom at the same time instead of only stacking them for length?
I didn’t have to rip them stacked up at the same time because the parallel guides give you repeatability like a table saw.
Was a forstner bit used to make the holes?
It’s part of the Parf guide system. I have a whole video on it. I show you all the parts and how the system works completely. Make sure you check that out and you will see the difference bits that make the holes.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Hey thx for the reply.....love your stuff Caribbean viewer locked on!
I love track saws! But to me a table saw is a must have. Do you not have space anymore?
I started following you way back to a ridged saw video way way ago. Lol😂I do know I’d love. E an mft table
I find table saws to just take up too much space in my small shop. Maybe when I move, I’ll have a shop big enough to get another one.
Pulled pork I was looking for a recipe lol
no need to be aligning and moving sheets cut BOTH at same time
I did cut both sheets at the same time on the long crosscut. However if you’re trying to make all the cuts on both sheets all at once, you still need to align them or you’re wasting material and you run the risk of one of the sheets moving, especially when these sheets are not straight and have warping. That method is fine if you’re doing rough work but not for precise cuts. You can do that on smaller pieces on the MFT.
You make a big deal about cutting the top and bottom to length at the same time. Why not do the same when cutting to width?
I explained it to you thoroughly at the 2:00 minute mark of the video. I hope that helps.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Nope. At 4:10 you cut the bottom separately from the top. Why not cut them together?
@@bobfre1 once again, pay attention to what I said at around the 2:00 minute mark, because I have the parallel guides, cutting the width separately is repeatable but the width of these are too wide to set up a stop block on the MFT at that point to have repeatability for cutting the length. That’s why I cut them together for the length, so there’s no chance of human error when cutting without some sort of stop block. And there’s no reason why you can’t cut both piece at the same time for length and width, I just find it easier to handle and break down one sheet at a time. Smaller pieces are easier to work with.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 No, I get it.... the parallel guides are great, but why not cut them together for exactly the same reasons.... eliminate a cut, eliminate possible error, and save some time and effort removing and replacing the top board?
@bobfre1 either way would be correct. honestly I’ve tried that before but lining up two full sheets is very difficult and you still have to straight line rip one edge to have a good reference side. It can be done but it’s harder to keep full multiple sheets lined up.
Damn, dude. We have yet to break 3 minutes in your video and you already utilized at least ++$2,000.00 worth of tools to rip a plywood board.
@@peglegthered no one said you had to use the same tools, it’s what I have. I do this on a professional level everyday. You can use what you have to do the job. No need to criticize.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Yeah that's true. I actually finished the video. There's some good process in there for keeping reference edges. Thumbs up. If you get a chance in the future, perhaps rephrase the part about the smart bench plans in different manner? I don't quite know why but having to repeat that they're paid plans makes it come off that you're talking down to your viewers. I think we all understood that he worked hard to come up with the design. It's as if we're here looking to rip off the plans. Just my opinion.
@@peglegthered I would never try and be demeaning to any of you, because we are a TH-cam family here and all of you make this channel keep going. However, I’ll let you in on a little secret without giving up any names…even after saying it repeatedly in the video, I still received emails for copies of the plans, specific measurements and some people even offered me $2.00 for the plans, which at the time of this video, the plans were only $10.00 from Ron’s website, so if you think I didn’t have to say it, well, there’s your answer. I just tried to let everyone know I was not going to undercut Ron Paulk.
Great build, Anthony! I know it would be a lot of extra work, but what do you think about routing grooves in the top and bottom sheets to receive the frame pieces? Do you think the added glue surface would be worth it, or do you think the juice wouldn't be worth the squeeze?
That would be good for alignment purposes, and you really wouldn’t be adding much extra glue surface at all but for a quick build like this and it’s only a workbench, it’s much easier and faster to do it the way I did here. That’s not to say if you wanted to you couldn’t, I just couldn’t waste that much time because I’ve already been using it on job sites. Strength wise, the glue and screws are more than enough.
How many times are you going to say... "I'm not going to give you the measurements." ? You treat the viewers like children. SMH 🫤
That comment is childish, the person who writes these plans sells them. I’m not authorized to give them out and yet I still get people emailing and asking me for the Measurements, so yes I have to treat some of you like children because you do not pay attention.
@@AnthonyScolaro1Totally agree with you Anthony. For this person to post such a ridiculous (and nonsensical) comment is just sad. And all because you demonstrated class and respect for Paulk and wanted him to get credit for his work? Very unfortunate.
Keep up the great work Anthony! Onward and upward sir!! 👊🏼