Interesting thank's for sharing. Stop saying you are not a professional and you get there for sure. Your knowledge is better than some mechanic and auto parts store people
I made one and converted the heads to ej20k made 346hp and 375ftlbs vf39 turbo, rip it shot a rod through the top of the motor after a hard hard days worth of rally. Then I replaced it with a wj257 bottom end and made way more reliable power. But the high compression and lack of ability to tune the ecu makes it hard. I had a piggy back that i clamped the voltage at 3.7 volts that’s when your car gets full fuel. Clamp at 3.7 IV data logged the shit out of it, also the greddy emanag I added fuel and reduced timing but had to find the factory timing curve and modify all the tables to make it the same as say a wrx. I made 20 psi Use a 3.7v clamp and tune fuel and air. Also go with the big maf tube to trick the maf sensor basically more air flowing through but it sees less flow. 1/2 watt zener will do by the way
@@crazyDIYguyWhen you foul ECM with higher than real air mass flow it will retard ignition. Ideally standalone ECM with wiring is better, but I cant afford it.
@@elementelectronics8824 I built a speeduino but it's been sitting there for over a year, haven't had time to try it. When I finally do I'll make a video, look them up, only a couple hundred. They can be ran off tuner studio
Hey man, I searched around NA/T Subaru group on Facebook but not a lot of people seem to be talking about these diodes. How long have you run them? You think it's worth? I'm planning on doing this on my 2003 legacy as well as other NA/T projects I have
Am still torn between a diode or just using a check valve, my 03 legacy is running fully on microsquirt, just need the Baro/Map sensor overvoltage code to stay away. (and the occasional bank 1 rich code.)
I think the diode might be better the check valves but I can't quite remember I tried both and I'm pretty sure the diode worked far better. Either way they're both ridiculously cheap and easy
@@crazyDIYguy ended up ordering the diodes yesterday, check valve gets stuck closed and reads -20hg, stock ecu still controls the IACV so i couldn't leave it like that.
If u use a check valve your map will read always your maximum vacuum reached and then you will have a total opposite recipe for boost. por fuel and advanced spark.
@@jesusdiegoroblesgutierres3751 The stock ecu isn't running the engine, it's simply reading the sensors to run all the emissions equipment and pass OBD2 readiness emissions testing. In my case the check valve works, been running 15psi (td04L) on e85 with an unopened ej251 for over a year now.
@@crazyDIYguy I also added a check valve and it does indeed allow the car to start trying to make boost while im waiting for the diodes to come in. I imagine if I put like 3 them on it would work but like how stupid is that
@@crazyDIYguy Follow up tried this and something didnt work. Car seemed to go into a limp mode and now wont turn over. I can easily get another map sensor but what do you think could be wrong. I went with a 5.1
@@Clesarieit went into limp when you had positive pressure (boost)? Maybe you wired the diode backwards? Or you might need the next voltage rating, so like a 5.0v and work your way down from there. It's been so long my memory is rusty apologies
Interesting thank's for sharing.
Stop saying you are not a professional and you get there for sure. Your knowledge is better than some mechanic and auto parts store people
Learned Everything on youtube, thanks man good luck with the build 😎
I made one and converted the heads to ej20k made 346hp and 375ftlbs vf39 turbo, rip it shot a rod through the top of the motor after a hard hard days worth of rally. Then I replaced it with a wj257 bottom end and made way more reliable power. But the high compression and lack of ability to tune the ecu makes it hard. I had a piggy back that i clamped the voltage at 3.7 volts that’s when your car gets full fuel. Clamp at 3.7 IV data logged the shit out of it, also the greddy emanag I added fuel and reduced timing but had to find the factory timing curve and modify all the tables to make it the same as say a wrx. I made 20 psi
Use a 3.7v clamp and tune fuel and air. Also go with the big maf tube to trick the maf sensor basically more air flowing through but it sees less flow. 1/2 watt zener will do by the way
Super valuable information 🙏💯
the music got me a headache , but thanks for the video
Dude I agree with you
Shit I'm sorry guys I need to edit that out or redo the video but I don't have the car anymore 😬
Ive head just put a check valve in the hose. When it gets positive manifold pressure it stops the flow and the map sees 0inhg
I have 10K pots between signal and ground on MAP and AIT in drivers cabin. Madness. Go for it.
You mean the air intake temp sensor? What does messing with that signal do? Always looking for new info on fooling the old Subaru 😎👍
@@crazyDIYguyWhen you foul ECM with higher than real air mass flow it will retard ignition. Ideally standalone ECM with wiring is better, but I cant afford it.
@@elementelectronics8824 I built a speeduino but it's been sitting there for over a year, haven't had time to try it. When I finally do I'll make a video, look them up, only a couple hundred. They can be ran off tuner studio
Hey man, I searched around NA/T Subaru group on Facebook but not a lot of people seem to be talking about these diodes. How long have you run them? You think it's worth? I'm planning on doing this on my 2003 legacy as well as other NA/T projects I have
I didn't have any problems with it for the two years I ran my Subaru
Am still torn between a diode or just using a check valve, my 03 legacy is running fully on microsquirt, just need the Baro/Map sensor overvoltage code to stay away. (and the occasional bank 1 rich code.)
I think the diode might be better the check valves but I can't quite remember I tried both and I'm pretty sure the diode worked far better. Either way they're both ridiculously cheap and easy
@@crazyDIYguy ended up ordering the diodes yesterday, check valve gets stuck closed and reads -20hg, stock ecu still controls the IACV so i couldn't leave it like that.
If u use a check valve your map will read always your maximum vacuum reached and then you will have a total opposite recipe for boost. por fuel and advanced spark.
@@jesusdiegoroblesgutierres3751 The stock ecu isn't running the engine, it's simply reading the sensors to run all the emissions equipment and pass OBD2 readiness emissions testing.
In my case the check valve works, been running 15psi (td04L) on e85 with an unopened ej251 for over a year now.
I just slapped a turbo on my 4g15 mirage and I hit fuel cut as soon as I go into boost. Im really hoping this is the cheap solution I need.
Check out "broke and boosted" 02 sensor pressure switch video, I can't remember the title exactly but that might help you too.
@@crazyDIYguy saw that. Seems like those are both for different things. The o2 seems just like smoother transition into boost
@@crazyDIYguy I also added a check valve and it does indeed allow the car to start trying to make boost while im waiting for the diodes to come in. I imagine if I put like 3 them on it would work but like how stupid is that
@@crazyDIYguy Follow up tried this and something didnt work. Car seemed to go into a limp mode and now wont turn over. I can easily get another map sensor but what do you think could be wrong. I went with a 5.1
@@Clesarieit went into limp when you had positive pressure (boost)? Maybe you wired the diode backwards? Or you might need the next voltage rating, so like a 5.0v and work your way down from there. It's been so long my memory is rusty apologies
Need to get that interheater moved out front so it's a intercooler lol
THERES NO CHEAP WAY TO BOOST...ENLESS YOU DONT WANT IT TO LAST LONG