What the other fella said here: Disconnect the sway bar link on the side you’re working on to prevent suspension binding. This will facilitate more downward travel of the control arm to ease the install and removal of the strut. If it’s still fighting you, you can loosen the control arm bolts a couple turns, but they have to be torqued to spec with the suspension loaded at the end. Don’t overextend the upper ball joints or you’ll be replacing the whole upper arms. 😎 Hope this helps some folks! Solid and helpful video, though! 🍺 ✌️
Just to add, you need a bIg FAT and LONG pry bar to get enough movement to release the shock. It takes a hell of a lot of force. If you’re a weakling, unbolt the sway bar on both sides and it’s a lot easier. Or just cut the old rusty links and put new ones with upgraded bushings for the sway. Thanks for the vid though
Pauld D which sway bar are you referring to? Is it the lower control arms? if so do I loosen the bolts connecting to the knuckle or the ones connecting to the body of the car?
@@Paul-vn5mi let me ask a different way. How much force can one apply to lower the upper arm before it breaks. Or is it flexible enough so it’s not a issue?
@@ltai0001 You’ll break your tool before you break the arm. I would highly recommend replacing the sway bar links and bushings if you’re down there. 99% of these that I’ve repaired have been trashed ( split rubber, play or no rubber at all lol). If you intend to pry only, you’ll need someone strong or heavy. Longest pry bar you find the better. We used a 1.5m rebar to pry.
I removed the brake line bolt, the clip that holds the sensor cable, the strut bottom bolt (attached to the hub), and the strut top 3 bolts ( they are not accessible through the trunk. You have to remove the back sit corner cushions. The cushions closest to the doors. Let me know if this helps.Thanks and feel free to ask any other questions.
Did you have to realign the top and bottom of the assembly so the top rods fit in as well as the bottom so the lower bolt can go through? I got these Monroe quick assembly but top and bottom are not aligned properly so was wondering if there is a way
@@buggzp9887 any other way to lower the assembly. I am at the point where I am trying to put the new strut in, I got it inside the oval shaped opening but prying down on the upper control arm to lift the strut in place is not working - let me know
@@buggzp9887 it worked finally - what I did is loosen the two lower arms at the hub and that made it a lot easier to push down on the upper arm and next thing you know the strut is in place. To replace the bolts for the two lower arms I had to use the jack a bit to lift the knuckle but it worked finally. Now I just need to torque to spec and off to the other side. Appreciate the feedback and tips. Cheers
I'm glad I found your channel! I'm actually changing my suspension tomorrow and this will help me so much! Thank you
Thank you.
Thank you so much. U saved me many headaches as your advice worked well !
You're very welcome, Any time brother. Knowledge is power but only when we share it. Thanks for subscribing.
appreciate that going to try this tm
What the other fella said here:
Disconnect the sway bar link on the side you’re working on to prevent suspension binding. This will facilitate more downward travel of the control arm to ease the install and removal of the strut.
If it’s still fighting you, you can loosen the control arm bolts a couple turns, but they have to be torqued to spec with the suspension loaded at the end.
Don’t overextend the upper ball joints or you’ll be replacing the whole upper arms. 😎
Hope this helps some folks!
Solid and helpful video, though! 🍺 ✌️
Just to add, you need a bIg FAT and LONG pry bar to get enough movement to release the shock. It takes a hell of a lot of force. If you’re a weakling, unbolt the sway bar on both sides and it’s a lot easier. Or just cut the old rusty links and put new ones with upgraded bushings for the sway. Thanks for the vid though
Lol. Yes you need lot of leverage. I used a 3 ton jack handle and you need 1 more person. You welcome.
Pauld D which sway bar are you referring to? Is it the lower control arms? if so do I loosen the bolts connecting to the knuckle or the ones connecting to the body of the car?
@@ltai0001 Reread what I wrote. It’s very clear and very helpful if you follow what I said (weakling instructions lol)
@@Paul-vn5mi let me ask a different way. How much force can one apply to lower the upper arm before it breaks. Or is it flexible enough so it’s not a issue?
@@ltai0001 You’ll break your tool before you break the arm. I would highly recommend replacing the sway bar links and bushings if you’re down there. 99% of these that I’ve repaired have been trashed ( split rubber, play or no rubber at all lol). If you intend to pry only, you’ll need someone strong or heavy. Longest pry bar you find the better. We used a 1.5m rebar to pry.
You didn't have to remove the sway bar link to get the strut out?
No, just some brute force. You need 2 people, 1 to get the strut in and 1 to push down on the hub. Thanks for your comment.
Besides the brake line bolts, how many other bolts did you remove and which ones?
I removed the brake line bolt, the clip that holds the sensor cable, the strut bottom bolt (attached to the hub), and the strut top 3 bolts ( they are not accessible through the trunk. You have to remove the back sit corner cushions. The cushions closest to the doors. Let me know if this helps.Thanks and feel free to ask any other questions.
Buggz P awesome! Your video is the simplest one I found.
@@buggzp9887 same process for 2011?
@@DavidHernandez-ue4fz yes, it is the same process.
Did you have to realign the top and bottom of the assembly so the top rods fit in as well as the bottom so the lower bolt can go through? I got these Monroe quick assembly but top and bottom are not aligned properly so was wondering if there is a way
My aligned very easily. I put the top in first, and put the nut on there finger tight.
@@buggzp9887 any other way to lower the assembly. I am at the point where I am trying to put the new strut in, I got it inside the oval shaped opening but prying down on the upper control arm to lift the strut in place is not working - let me know
If you can't push down on it to get the clearance, then remove the sway bar link. Unbolt the link from the hub, that should make it easier.
@@buggzp9887 it worked finally - what I did is loosen the two lower arms at the hub and that made it a lot easier to push down on the upper arm and next thing you know the strut is in place. To replace the bolts for the two lower arms I had to use the jack a bit to lift the knuckle but it worked finally. Now I just need to torque to spec and off to the other side. Appreciate the feedback and tips. Cheers
Oh fasho !