I watched your video before having to do a timing belt change. We just did a 120,000 timing belt change over Christmas 2021. Changed the drive belt tensioner also. I told the mechanic who did the job to only use Genuine VW parts on Our Amarok as I didn’t trust dayco. Now after driving for a month. Our drive belt snapped and shredded due to broken bolt in the tensioner. A different mechanic pulled the part off and it’s a dayco. I was not happy as I got quoted VW parts too. Luckily only driving a local blue mountains road doing 50km. No engine damage hopefully. Thank you Zig for posting.
Thank you Rachel for letting me know that...It's quite obvious that there is an issue with the bolt supplied in the kit...I hope there is no damage but I fear there will be...Good luck and thanks again...Cheers.
I watched this a while ago and ended up using the blue box anyway. I did 50 and less than 1/4 and it was TAF. Felt like it bottomed out wasn't going any further. Still running so far. Thanks for the vid.
That's a tough one!!! Bolt broke going in and even though it doesn't look over torqued, the mechanic always gets the blame!!!! Wish you guys luck getting the part manufacturer to pay for the damages!!! And yes I too use Torques bits as ease outs!!!! Work's great and as far as I'm concerned it's the best!!!! Keep Rocking it out Down Under Ziggy!!!!
Ok so as a proby I’ve just discovered the Amarok I bought has bent valves and the bolt in that wheel was the same as this one. My question is did this pulley seize up from over torquing? Because of not having the thread spaces. Thanks guys! The bolt who’s in mine looks partly striped. Metal filings and thread look warn.
I have done two of these engines. The cam belt had jumped because the auxiliary belt had shredded, I replaced the cam belt but there was clearly no compression. Upon inspection the intake camshaft (The one without the camshaft pulley) had spun round almost 90 degrees. The rockers were all ok. I replaced both camshafts to be sure and timed it all back up etc etc which resulting in the engine running perfect. I also changed the aux belt tensioner as well as the water pump and full cam belt kit. Twice lucky or does this happen every time???
50nm + 90° is TOO TIGHT - Done a few of these and when attempting 90° I got to maybe 50-60 degrees when I refused to go any further as I could tell the bolt would start to twist/break with any more tension. There must differences in bolt grade or compound between gen and non gen kits or possibly wrong torque spec in manual. Very tight with 3/8 ratchet is all u want/need.
Yeah "FnT is where I ended up after the dust had settled...Dayco admitted they errored here because I followed directions...I finally used the original bolt with no issue.
What was the outcome of this mate out of interest? Did Dayco sort the issue? I'm about to do a timing belt on mine and was considering a Dayco kit. Was...
Yeah they helped out in the end by paying for the head repair and the spare parts supplier payed for the gaskets...I covered the labor...When I finally put it back together I ignored the Torque specs and just did things up F'n tight..Cheers mate and good luck.
An automotive insurance assessor told me that Subaru snap the bolts too, genuine/non genuine all with the same sad ending…..at least you weren’t instantly blamed - makes a change!
Where I did work week someone brought in a 06 ranger with a stuff timing belt and this guy was so lucky that the belt didn’t snap off I’m not sure if this story makes sense sorry
Can't understand why manufactures didn't make a non interference engines at least for their commercial line vehicles.... So a broken or skipped belt couldn't harm engine
A bolt...did the Challenger have a low tensile bolt that fucked and that fracture hit the tank fuel chamber .... Or blame a O ring? Professor Zig how do you comment ... What if someone died. Like the guy paid the lest is to answer
Yep blame the O ring...Ya can't do much more than follow directions so if a failure occurs it only leads to one thing...Faulty bolt or idler is all I can come up with but nope seems it was me according to them but a few Diesel engine pros have told me otherwise...They all say the bolt was bad and when the bearing expanded from heat it gave up...Cheers.
I just fitted my new Ina kit I hope I'm not going to get trouble down the road, I changed all the old bolts etc, I will just double che k all the torque settings in the morning. Do you think the bolts will snap due to over torque?
@@ziggassedup yep, agree, & I just caused a total valve bend on a PK Ranger with the 3.0 Lt TDCI engine by fitting a cheapy ebay cambelt & tensioner.....it lasted 40,000 k's then totally shredded itself on the freeway......not such a bargain cambelt afterall.....😨
@@ziggassedup 50nm + 90° is TOO TIGHT - Done a few of these and when attempting 90° I got to maybe 50-60 degrees when I refused to go any further as I could tell the bolt would start to twist/break with any more tension. There must differences in bolt grade or compound between gen and non gen kits or possibly wrong torque spec in manual. Very tight with 3/8 ratchet is all u want/need.
I didn't know that VW used interference engines but I guess so,, it's odd that the 4 cylinder subarus are interference and the 6 cylinders weren't, at least in the older ones.
it is a diesel though , sofar i havent seen a non interference deisel but non interference petrol motors definitely exist even some newer engines, no doubt on the internet there will be lists of zero interference engines,
@@closertothetruth9209 honestly I don't know much about diesels. naturally the older cars with chains and gears were non interference, The SVX subaru I had was a 6 cylinder and it was non- interference, one of my idler pulleys broke , the engine stopped but nothing was damaged as far as I know, all the 4 cylinder subarus are.
That torque setting is way too much for that bolt,I have done dozens of these timing belts never torque it with a torque wrench,I also use European brand parts and never had any issue
If you use aftermarket brand like dayco every 100k(I wouldn't recommend that brand) but if you use OEM brand like INA VW workshop manual says every 210k. Whoever not agrees with y'all free to read Vw workshop manual. (After 2010 models only)
As soon as you told him to turn it I'm yelling "NO!" at the phone, then that first turn hearing the valves hit piston made me 😬. Ohwell, time for a replacement motor from the parts company for their shoddy product causing it. 😎👍
She did the damage when the bolt broke at 110kph . The first thing the rep did is crank it and said " We'll it still turns so toss a belt on it ".Cheers mate
Hit up your spare parts for the warranty if dayco don’t come to the party that’s what i did mate that’s all !!there the ones that supplied the kit so they can have the head ace
Lets see if they honor their warranty against faulty parts...First time I've had any failures in 30+ years of timing belt changes and mos have been this brand...
Very similar scenario with the exact same car and exact same kit, they gave me a new kit and sent me on my way ignored all my questions and calls and emails by the end, I had to pay for all the repairs out of pocket never ordering dayco shit again
That's a bugger mate...When they told me "We'll look into it" I knew they would tell me it was my fault...I took it further and told the assessor guy he was a clueless goof and I want to get the bearing and bolt tested...Long story short, they covered the head repair, the parts place covered the gaskets and 5hrs of my time that I donated...I'd buy another Dayco kit...I must have fitted hundreds of belt kits in my life and this is the first time I've followed their instructions and first time for failure and I told them that.!!...
Did you not listen to what I said.?...The rep from the belt company told me to throw a belt on it and try it out...I knew it was already done...Thanks for your input but pay more attention or stop skipping ahead...Cheers,
@@ziggassedup seems like everything is junk these days. I put a new sump on the 327 in the impala, lucky I checked the plug before it went on. Thread was stuffed, tapped a new thread and perfect but lucky I checked or I'd be doing this again. They've got to stop making this stuff in China, its a joke. Looks like they'll be paying for the engine, at least they have admitted it was no good. I've had it with junk Parts, pushrods wore out in 20 minutes in the 327 . Plenty of oil and pre lubed them , pro form or some crap they sent her. Used Manley and never a problem again. Makes me worry about all the knockoff heads and Chinese parts all over ebay. Even the Devilbiss spray guns ,even says made in the UK and they look exactly the same even the box. Idiot government are quick to take tarriffs off our manufacturing but don't care about the illegal copies China does. Have a good one mate.
@@ziggassedup wife got the parts sent ,used all good stuff ,scorpion roller rockers, Edelbrock heads, Lunati cam and lifters except the pushrods. Said made in the USA but this pro form crap is all Chinese. Upsets me because I thought it was the cam at first and you feel like crap.
I now have the pleasure myself of going through this process. I feel your pain. You've earned a sub for your attitude towards this new shit haha 😄 This one at work has a seized ps pump which shredded the drive belt to pieces behind their silly fooking belt cover and got sucked into the timing belt section therefore spider webbing its self around the crank pulley causing the belt to slip out over 180° Codes for timing correlation, Almost guarantee I've got a few bent valves. This one hasn't chucked the rockers out though so I will look a little further tomorrow. 😉
I have have had this problem. On this engine the valves are flush with piston. So it breaks the cam rockers. Instead of bending valves. Cheap and easy to repair. Still a shit engine
Bloody hell....... Hmmmmmm blue box...... Dayco..?? correct move on this job hand the car to them there’s no knowing when the dramas will end now and at what point it stops being their problem and starts being your problem....... as it stands its their problem and they can f$&@in have it.......!!!!!
Yep Rep came in again today and he sounds optimistic...I told him I don't want to do anything to the vehicle including R&R the engine if they do decide to fix it...Keep your fingers crossed..It could be my time for a miracle.
I watched your video before having to do a timing belt change. We just did a 120,000 timing belt change over Christmas 2021. Changed the drive belt tensioner also. I told the mechanic who did the job to only use Genuine VW parts on Our Amarok as I didn’t trust dayco. Now after driving for a month. Our drive belt snapped and shredded due to broken bolt in the tensioner. A different mechanic pulled the part off and it’s a dayco. I was not happy as I got quoted VW parts too. Luckily only driving a local blue mountains road doing 50km. No engine damage hopefully. Thank you Zig for posting.
Thank you Rachel for letting me know that...It's quite obvious that there is an issue with the bolt supplied in the kit...I hope there is no damage but I fear there will be...Good luck and thanks again...Cheers.
I watched this a while ago and ended up using the blue box anyway. I did 50 and less than 1/4 and it was TAF. Felt like it bottomed out wasn't going any further. Still running so far. Thanks for the vid.
TAF is what I ended up doing also...Blue box too but old hardware...Cheers Russell...Thanks for your feedback.
That's a tough one!!! Bolt broke going in and even though it doesn't look over torqued, the mechanic always gets the blame!!!!
Wish you guys luck getting the part manufacturer to pay for the damages!!!
And yes I too use Torques bits as ease outs!!!! Work's great and as far as I'm concerned it's the best!!!!
Keep Rocking it out Down Under Ziggy!!!!
The fact it drove for 3 days perfect is the point...If I broke the bolt it wouldn't have made it out the door...Cheers mate.
my is way overdue, makes you wonder ir it's worth changing.
It's worth changing...
That sucks, but you're a wise man making it their problem. Too many ifs and buts that will turn into headaches for you.
Absolutely Johno. Cheers mate.
Ok so as a proby I’ve just discovered the Amarok I bought has bent valves and the bolt in that wheel was the same as this one. My question is did this pulley seize up from over torquing? Because of not having the thread spaces. Thanks guys! The bolt who’s in mine looks partly striped. Metal filings and thread look warn.
Not sure.
As a ex mechanic,shop owner,that would be my exact decision.
Too many unknowns
Cheers mate.
I have done two of these engines. The cam belt had jumped because the auxiliary belt had shredded, I replaced the cam belt but there was clearly no compression. Upon inspection the intake camshaft (The one without the camshaft pulley) had spun round almost 90 degrees. The rockers were all ok. I replaced both camshafts to be sure and timed it all back up etc etc which resulting in the engine running perfect. I also changed the aux belt tensioner as well as the water pump and full cam belt kit. Twice lucky or does this happen every time???
Cheers mate...I hate 'em...
I'm glad I have geared timing rather than a belt or a chain.
Yes . Me too.
Did you pull the Rocker cover off and check Rocker arms they bare the brunt of the pistons
Ah... Yeah...No broken rockers but 8 bent valves..
@@ziggassedup good one to walk away from then...
@@haydenr6785 There's more to the story and the other vids on my Chanel...The repair wasn't as expensive as you'd think.
50nm + 90° is TOO TIGHT - Done a few of these and when attempting 90° I got to maybe 50-60 degrees when I refused to go any further as I could tell the bolt would start to twist/break with any more tension. There must differences in bolt grade or compound between gen and non gen kits or possibly wrong torque spec in manual. Very tight with 3/8 ratchet is all u want/need.
Yeah "FnT is where I ended up after the dust had settled...Dayco admitted they errored here because I followed directions...I finally used the original bolt with no issue.
ahh, That sucks Zig ! Some of these modern engines just are not what they should be ..
Yep. Cheers mate.
What was the outcome of this mate out of interest? Did Dayco sort the issue? I'm about to do a timing belt on mine and was considering a Dayco kit. Was...
Yeah they helped out in the end by paying for the head repair and the spare parts supplier payed for the gaskets...I covered the labor...When I finally put it back together I ignored the Torque specs and just did things up F'n tight..Cheers mate and good luck.
@@ziggassedup good that they came to the party, but still shit! Ive had a kit from imparts recommended to me.. any experience?
An automotive insurance assessor told me that Subaru snap the bolts too, genuine/non genuine all with the same sad ending…..at least you weren’t instantly blamed - makes a change!
Cheers mate...Yeah it's looking positive.
Where I did work week someone brought in a 06 ranger with a stuff timing belt and this guy was so lucky that the belt didn’t snap off
I’m not sure if this story makes sense sorry
Lucky for sure.
@@ziggassedup yeah
How did you go with dayco?
They covered the head repair....Eventually.....
@@ziggassedup good to know, I wouldn’t even think to get them to take responsibility.
@@BerettaTVwell their belt snapped, how could you not contact Dayco?
@@u3962521 wasn’t it a bolt that snapped not the belt??
Can't understand why manufactures didn't make a non interference engines at least for their commercial line vehicles.... So a broken or skipped belt couldn't harm engine
That's how they sell parts.
Because everyone wants more power and torque... ya won't get that with a non-interference...
A bolt...did the Challenger have a low tensile bolt that fucked and that fracture hit the tank fuel chamber .... Or blame a O ring? Professor Zig how do you comment ... What if someone died. Like the guy paid the lest is to answer
Yep blame the O ring...Ya can't do much more than follow directions so if a failure occurs it only leads to one thing...Faulty bolt or idler is all I can come up with but nope seems it was me according to them but a few Diesel engine pros have told me otherwise...They all say the bolt was bad and when the bearing expanded from heat it gave up...Cheers.
I just fitted my new Ina kit I hope I'm not going to get trouble down the road, I changed all the old bolts etc, I will just double che k all the torque settings in the morning.
Do you think the bolts will snap due to over torque?
My only concern is that idler bolt they supply..Good luck mate.
50 Nm + an extra 90°....that's gotta be wrong ??... I wonder what the total Nm ended up being ....on a little bolt like that ??
Maybe it is but it was the only Specs I could find so I follow that and not guess...Cheers Lance.
@@ziggassedup yep, agree, & I just caused a total valve bend on a PK Ranger with the 3.0 Lt TDCI engine by fitting a cheapy ebay cambelt & tensioner.....it lasted 40,000 k's then totally shredded itself on the freeway......not such a bargain cambelt afterall.....😨
@@ziggassedup 50nm + 90° is TOO TIGHT - Done a few of these and when attempting 90° I got to maybe 50-60 degrees when I refused to go any further as I could tell the bolt would start to twist/break with any more tension. There must differences in bolt grade or compound between gen and non gen kits or possibly wrong torque spec in manual. Very tight with 3/8 ratchet is all u want/need.
I didn't know that VW used interference engines but I guess so,, it's odd that the 4 cylinder subarus are interference and the 6 cylinders weren't, at least in the older ones.
All modern cars are dumbass only way to make decent power. Should be using timing chain though
it is a diesel though , sofar i havent seen a non interference deisel but non interference petrol motors definitely exist even some newer engines, no doubt on the internet there will be lists of zero interference engines,
@@closertothetruth9209 honestly I don't know much about diesels. naturally the older cars with chains and gears were non interference, The SVX subaru I had was a 6 cylinder and it was non- interference, one of my idler pulleys broke , the engine stopped but nothing was damaged as far as I know, all the 4 cylinder subarus are.
Diesel engine leaves no room for error. Cheers mate
That sucks man. Awesome you were able to get the other half out. Although maybe it does not matter since it is pooched.
It wound out by finger...It sucks for whoever has to fix it...Cheers mate.
That torque setting is way too much for that bolt,I have done dozens of these timing belts never torque it with a torque wrench,I also use European brand parts and never had any issue
A bit late to tell me that now Daniel....Cheers mate.
How often must I replace this belt?
100,000km or 60,000mls.
If you use aftermarket brand like dayco every 100k(I wouldn't recommend that brand) but if you use OEM brand like INA VW workshop manual says every 210k. Whoever not agrees with y'all free to read Vw workshop manual. (After 2010 models only)
As soon as you told him to turn it I'm yelling "NO!" at the phone, then that first turn hearing the valves hit piston made me 😬. Ohwell, time for a replacement motor from the parts company for their shoddy product causing it. 😎👍
She did the damage when the bolt broke at 110kph . The first thing the rep did is crank it and said " We'll it still turns so toss a belt on it ".Cheers mate
@@ziggassedup F'n reps piss me off. Make sure you double the quote to Dayco, shoddy pricks.
Mate did one on a Triton tensioner failed after 10000 kms and they said nope to warranty due to belt was over tighten lol 😂 fuck dayco
same with a freind of mine elcheapo tensioner failed
Well see what happens from here. Cheers mate
Hit up your spare parts for the warranty if dayco don’t come to the party that’s what i did mate that’s all !!there the ones that supplied the kit so they can have the head ace
These V6 Diesels make good power and Torque, but seem like a nightmare when things go wrong and you have to fix them. A lot of complexity.
Yep.
Its 4cyl
This is nightmare fuel
Not V6 2lt four cylinder
That diseasel engines just can't take much punishment when a timing belt brakes. Cheers mate
No room for error. Cheers mate
What is the correct mileage to change the timing belt?
Most are due at 100,000 km or 60,000 miles as is this one...
Aftermarket parts always a lottery the quality gets worse and worse every year, for something as critical as a timing belt kit OEM only from a dealer.
Lets see if they honor their warranty against faulty parts...First time I've had any failures in 30+ years of timing belt changes and mos have been this brand...
Mercedes Benz still uses chains. I have yet to have a problem with them.
Chains rarely play up Bruce and lots of engines have gone back to chains...Cheers mate.
substandard bolts?
Looks like it. Cheers mate.
Chinesium bolts
Very similar scenario with the exact same car and exact same kit, they gave me a new kit and sent me on my way ignored all my questions and calls and emails by the end, I had to pay for all the repairs out of pocket never ordering dayco shit again
That's a bugger mate...When they told me "We'll look into it" I knew they would tell me it was my fault...I took it further and told the assessor guy he was a clueless goof and I want to get the bearing and bolt tested...Long story short, they covered the head repair, the parts place covered the gaskets and 5hrs of my time that I donated...I'd buy another Dayco kit...I must have fitted hundreds of belt kits in my life and this is the first time I've followed their instructions and first time for failure and I told them that.!!...
I won't fit dayco to anything
I hear ya mate.
@ziggassedup what happened in the end ?
Genuine all the way!!
you are far away from mechanic if after such fault installed new timing belt and start up with key 🤣🤣
Did you not listen to what I said.?...The rep from the belt company told me to throw a belt on it and try it out...I knew it was already done...Thanks for your input but pay more attention or stop skipping ahead...Cheers,
@@ziggassedup i`m not death... engine was done so you decide to do even more damage:) why not, it`s customers money anyway right?
I would guess a shit quality bolt made in china. Certainly not German quality..
Something like that Mark...Cheers mate.
Lucky you put it back on them mate ,not your fault. These modern engines are shocking to work on.
I follow instructions and a failure like this happens...!..Cheers Pete.
@@ziggassedup seems like everything is junk these days. I put a new sump on the 327 in the impala, lucky I checked the plug before it went on. Thread was stuffed, tapped a new thread and perfect but lucky I checked or I'd be doing this again. They've got to stop making this stuff in China, its a joke. Looks like they'll be paying for the engine, at least they have admitted it was no good. I've had it with junk Parts, pushrods wore out in 20 minutes in the 327 . Plenty of oil and pre lubed them , pro form or some crap they sent her. Used Manley and never a problem again. Makes me worry about all the knockoff heads and Chinese parts all over ebay. Even the Devilbiss spray guns ,even says made in the UK and they look exactly the same even the box. Idiot government are quick to take tarriffs off our manufacturing but don't care about the illegal copies China does. Have a good one mate.
Don't go cheap on valvetrain Pete...It's more important than conrods...
@@ziggassedup wife got the parts sent ,used all good stuff ,scorpion roller rockers, Edelbrock heads, Lunati cam and lifters except the pushrods. Said made in the USA but this pro form crap is all Chinese. Upsets me because I thought it was the cam at first and you feel like crap.
genuine timing kits only on euros
That could be the answer...In saying that,this is the first failure I've had using these kits...Cheers mick.
Wow that is a major quality issue, but you're right that's their problem not yours
Yes mate but....
VW junkarok
I now have the pleasure myself of going through this process. I feel your pain.
You've earned a sub for your attitude towards this new shit haha 😄
This one at work has a seized ps pump which shredded the drive belt to pieces behind their silly fooking belt cover and got sucked into the timing belt section therefore spider webbing its self around the crank pulley causing the belt to slip out over 180°
Codes for timing correlation, Almost guarantee I've got a few bent valves. This one hasn't chucked the rockers out though so I will look a little further tomorrow. 😉
Cheers mate...Have you seen the other vids on this job...I had quite the battle with Dayco over it...Good luck with yours and thanks.
I have have had this problem. On this engine the valves are flush with piston. So it breaks the cam rockers. Instead of bending valves. Cheap and easy to repair.
Still a shit engine
This one bent 8 exhaust valves....And yes...A shit engine...Cheers mate.
Bent valves
Yep..A heap of 'em.
Bloody hell....... Hmmmmmm blue box...... Dayco..??
correct move on this job
hand the car to them there’s no knowing when the dramas will end now and at what point it stops being their problem and starts being your problem.......
as it stands its their problem and they can f$&@in have it.......!!!!!
Yep Rep came in again today and he sounds optimistic...I told him I don't want to do anything to the vehicle including R&R the engine if they do decide to fix it...Keep your fingers crossed..It could be my time for a miracle.
@@ziggassedup tell em Hollywood has Already invented the movie called “The Never Ending Story”.....
we don’t need a sequel......