Bobweight is calculated by adding the weight of the big end of the rod, the rod bearings and 1/2 the weight of the piston, pin, pin retainers and ring set.
I was taught to find the lightest wrist pin and match it with the heaviest piston and balance as a pair. The same with the rod bearings and the big end of the rod. The rest like you showed. Is this just a different way of doing things?
I wondered if I had accomlished anything back in 1973 when I built my first engine doing this. It was a 235 inline six and I borrowed a triple beam balance from school for measuring. After this process, I leveled two framing squares and set the crank on them, grinding spots on it until would set at any position without rolling.
Wow man, love to learn a master mechanics techniques. The lack of this procedure I've no doubt played a roll in why the small block I had rebuilt only lasted about 30k miles (crank bearing failure). They were NOT master mechanics let me tell ya! On second thought don't get me started...
In your 383 build series you had talked about the importance of a balanced rotating assembly in a stroker. Would the same 1/4 of a gram tolerance apply to a non stroker build. Great stuff. Thanks for the new episodes
Perfect, I always wondered about this and you made it simple. Thanks.
Never get tired of these engine builds/machining!!
Love your full rebuild videos
Bobweight is calculated by adding the weight of the big end of the rod, the rod bearings and 1/2 the weight of the piston, pin, pin retainers and ring set.
Sweet!
I was taught to find the lightest wrist pin and match it with the heaviest piston and balance as a pair. The same with the rod bearings and the big end of the rod. The rest like you showed. Is this just a different way of doing things?
Thx bruhda. Working on an 383 right now. The crank is being the most cumbersome...
I wondered if I had accomlished anything back in 1973 when I built my first engine doing this. It was a 235 inline six and I borrowed a triple beam balance from school for measuring. After this process, I leveled two framing squares and set the crank on them, grinding spots on it until would set at any position without rolling.
Nice lil revisit on a vid you did a couple years back
I would like to get your Contact info so I can talk to you
Wow man, love to learn a master mechanics techniques.
The lack of this procedure I've no doubt played a roll in why the small block I had rebuilt only lasted about 30k miles (crank bearing failure).
They were NOT master mechanics let me tell ya!
On second thought don't get me started...
In your 383 build series you had talked about the importance of a balanced rotating assembly in a stroker. Would the same 1/4 of a gram tolerance apply to a non stroker build. Great stuff. Thanks for the new episodes
yes