Casting Aluminum Storm Trooper│Death Trooper│Lost PLA
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2019
- In this video I will be turning a 3d printed model into Aluminum using a method called lost pla casting. The ceramic shell I used is called Suspendaslurry and is made by Ransom & Randolph.
Model by Paul Braddock www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Music: David Cutter Music - www.davidcuttermusic.com - กีฬา
I find smoothing the print before hand to be very effective in reducing post processing like sanding while making it look much nice after the cast. It could affect ceramic adhesion possibly though? Awesome work.
Very cool. Nice use of combining 3D printing with metal work.
David Dorsett Thank you!
I love it... 👍
AlumiTube Thanks man!
Wicked. Loving it, loving it, loving it.
unreal bro absolutely amazing
Most people with a 3D printer end up with lots of semi strong models to use and show people. I bet you have very few prints but loads of cast parts. Good work👍
Awesome cast!
captivating content; quite satisfying to watch hammering away the mold
Stunning!!!
Awesome job!!!👍
You have a really great setup and I like your projects so far! Keep them coming! (of course the more videos I watch the less I actually make..)
Super cool! Nice job
Beautiful!!
I don't usually subscribe to channels, but you my friend earned yourself a subscribe. I've watched several of your videos, and these are amazing. I would love to see this storm trooper in bronze.
Jason Freudenrich Thank you! I’m glad you enjoy watching my videos.
That's wicked cool
Awesome video bro!
awesome video.. thanx for sharing.
Glad I found this video. I also built the fire-keg and have been doing some casting. I recently started using investment plaster. It works quite well, but I like the slurry method better. I knew about it, I just didn't know you could "backyard" it. I'm shopping R&R stuff now! Upfront costs are higher than investment, but you don't have to construct a flask. Great for bigger items. Although, I need a deeper kiln!
Virgin Metal I’m glad you found this useful. This casting didn’t turn out all that nice (aluminum was too hot) but I have learned a lot since. I hope you have a good experience with it!
Very impressed👌
Awesome! Great Result !
Thank you!
Awesome 3d printing design of the Stormtrooper...will you be making more of star wars or something else next keep. It up amazing job
Man that turned out super cool! Would it be possible to do the skull in one metal and the helmet in another. I'm guessing one would have to be higher melting temp than the other. Might be cool to try
man, you have all the cool toys!
i saw in another video where you use a filler to smooth over the print layers on the PLA model, so i'd be interested in seeing a comparison video of how you do it now as opposed to then....
Cool!
Damn nice done i have bin working in a casting company it was the most beautiful work i have ever had......i wish i could turn back the time .we also did the lostwax technic and i was caster and welder of bronze castings and somthimes i did the sandblasting and that was not no nice because i was in the sandblasting room and some status where bigger than me and way bigger wish you luck and may the force be with you
Helmets with a skull still inside them are super creepy, A+
Do you prefer using the ceramic slurry vs plaster? Great project!
I love it.
I’d love to buy one of these from you 👌
In a Galaxy Far Far Away..
Ewok foot soldier proudly displays a real thing inside his/her hut.
Where do you get the suspenderslurry and the sand?
Well done - like your set up. Can you do it in bronze? I guess the only thing I was concerned about was that you cast the object solid, but maybe that's fine for Aluminium.
hi sir...im from Malaysia...wow...that so creative..i want make one same like u do...thanks sir for give me idea..
That is great
Thanks for sharing
AWESOME POUR! What Company made your Kiln? And where did you find the pouring tongs?
Cool
Super !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love your video's man, where do you buy the suspendaslurry though?
I've been binging your videos, and I was wondering where you get all of your material? Thanks!
Badass
wow!!!
Excellent video have you try degassing the aluminum with argon or degassing pills, it can help you to remove some bubbles and get a smoother surface.
agustin ruiz Thank you! I haven’t tried degassing however I believe the cause of the poor surface finish was the aluminum being too hot. Several people have told me that I poured way too hot.
@@robinson-foundry One thing that could cause porosity is how long the pour sprue is without tapering, when the aluminum hits the bottom of the sprue it creates a lot of turbulence. Its similar to how if you dump water into a cup from high up it has a lot of bubbles. If the sprue tapers to be thinner near the bottom, it can reduce turbulence and porosity.
What media do you use to blast off the ceramic?
tip for avoiding pitting and cold shuts, is to heat the ceramic shell - to basically glowing red before filling it with metal. :)
Dip it in hot molten wax before making the mould so it hides layer lines?
Amazing how critical people get on what was clearly identified as a first attempt. Excellent result, well done.
Lost PLA is a relatively new game and most of us know each other and help troubleshoot issues to refine the process. We know it was his first attempt and did a damn fine job.
Thank you!
Is the slurry kiln the best way. That equipment is quite a bit more expensive.
What kind of ceramic do you use for your molds? Another incredible casting, thanks for the video
Please answer him, I have same question
In the video he says Suspendaslurry.
www.ransom-randolph.com/suspendaslurry
For once I see someone actually using the safety equipment they should have on while pouring molten metal good job young man
Why not use ABS and acetone smoothing before casting to get rid of the layer lines?
Wow
I expected a big shrink defect to appear on top of his head since it appears not to be hollow (ie. is so much thicker than the feeders)... but I don't see anything of the sort. He looks great!
Yeah, I would have lost that bet.
Another commenter mentioned that people are being too critical here. I read all of the comments and I'm not seeing it, so I sure hope my own OP didn't come off as some kind of snarky backhanded compliment or something.
This casting looks great as I said, very impressive even. I love how you left the skull with the sandblasted texture and polished his helmet (I see it... I'm leaving it😀). But that shrink just has to be *somewhere*, with a casting that thick and comparatively small reservoirs to feed it... My guess is that the relatively cool shell must have frozen the melt against itelself almost immediately, and chased that shrink into the interior of the casting where nobody will ever have to see it... The perfect place for it! If decorative items can be cast solid without visible shrink that way, instead of having to saw off and fettle away big feeders, while also avoiding having to mess around with cores and maybe chaplets and welding and all that other complicated crap that comes along with making hollow castings, that is a super great thing to know! Makes me wonder if the shell is porous to get away with casting something like this without needing the big vent on top, or with maybe just a few really thin wax or PLA wires for vents...
@@tobhomott I appreciate all of the nice comments and constructive criticism. I definitely didn't take your comment as snarky in the slightest. Thank you!
As for the shrinkage. You' re absolutely right that this should have had visible shrinkage. I originally planned to cast this in bronze but didnt realize it would be around 15lbs. Reluctantly I chose to use aluminum, knowing I would encounter shrinkage. Fortunately, because I had extra metal which I poured into a bowl, when I noticed the metal shrinking down into the casting from the vent I used a spoon to refill it. I did this off camera because I didnt have time to set it up. Im amazed it worked. To tell you the truth I really didnt add that much.
@@tobhomott Nah Jeff... When that comment came in, it was written towards me... :-/ Ceramic shell is VERY porous! IF you fill a fired shell with water, it will bleed like a gutted fish. Vents are really not needed with this stuff, but we add them anyways on difficult sprue jobs. Remember by little bronze windows? OMG, took me an hour to dissect that nightmare. I'll never do that again. lol
Hi Seth ! Your work is awesome.
Would you be up for a commission casting job? ( 2, 8 inch 3d dog heads )
I just need to try this method. Do you know maybe where to buy this Slurry in Europe?
would be awesome to get one of those done in parts so as to be hollow and approximately the same size as an actual human skull inside.
How can I get a file for my printer, I am starting out . That lools amazing.
What is the green viscous liquid that you immerse in the second 0:36?
0:11 Who are you kidding, mister Greenthumb?
ever tried plaster de France?
What do you thing if i used plaster to do the model ?
hey seth, that looks hot, like maybe 1700 you might try cooler to get less shrinkage and porosity, 1350-1400 which is more like a pink but not orange color on the metal.
Artemas Ward Thanks for the advise. I’ll definitely pour cooler next time. I haven’t worked with aluminum much as I skipped it and went straight for copper alloys!
@@robinson-foundry you can make an immersion temperature probe with a thermo couple and a multimeter.
That is an easy project, you just have to find the heat proof tube that covers the thermo cover. Then there is a ohms chart that you use to convert the ohms to your temp/ But if you look at factory casting vids, you can go by the color of the metal. Steel white, bronze yellow, silver orange, aluminum pink, pewter or lead, no color.
th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=foundry+temperature+probe+diy
Is there enough detail to embed a QR code in the base of a sculpture like this to embed a link to the artist? Using patina & polish for contrast, or the depressions could be filled with black paint.
Good job man.. You can probably shave off a couple of layers of shell if you wrap with wire after layer 3. It's not hard to remove on breakout. The shell just crumbles around it. I notice your surface isn't what it could be. What grain size silica are you using on the first 2 coats? I recommend something pretty fine and then back it up with course stuff to build up strength. Good idea with the pan during "dewax", I bet that's some stinky shit!
Got any microcrystalline wax? I've seen guys smooth over those print lines with it before investing. ;-) It just melts away.
Thanks man! I’ve learned a lot from your videos. So you’re saying coat three times and then wrap it wire and then continue to coat a few more times? I went with 10 coats because I really didn’t want the shell cracking during burnout.
I’m using a very fine silica sand for the first two coats and coarser silica sand for the rest. I followed what you said “suger and salt”.
I did a large lost pla bronze sculpture with the exact same process however the bronze is incredibly detailed, almost as if it was printed in bronze. So I don’t think it’s an grain size issue. Someone told me that my pour was way to hot.
worldtraveler I don’t but I’ll give that a shot, thanks.
@@robinson-foundry Exactly! I learned this trick from Berry Luke builds here on YT. It's especially helpful with thin edges to keep the pressure of the metal from blowing out shell. This also works on that plastic pooh you are melting out. Salt, then sugar! Well done! You are probably right and it was probably the temp of the aluminum. I haven't done shell with aluminum in a long time. Seems to me, preheating the shell isn't that important with aluminum and R&R told me on the phone once, just 3-400 degrees preheat on the shell was plenty. With really thick stuff like your skull, it needed to be just completely melted. Same for bronze, I always pour thinner stuff first so it travels through the mold and the thicker stuff I pour cooler. I get a better finish and less cleanup work is needed. I'm impressed you poured that fat skull solid and didn't suffer any weird shrink issues. That's a testament to how good shell is. David at thehomefoundry yt channel does some of this lost pla stuff and I know he runs shittons of layers too. So 9 not reinforced isn't out of the question. I bet that thing was HEAVY!
@@jagboy69 Cool, I'll check out Berry Luke's channel.
I originally planned to cast this in bronze but didnt realize it would be around 15lbs. Reluctantly I chose to use alumiunum, knowing I would encounter shrinkage. Fortunately, because I had extra metal which I poured into a bowl, when I noticed the metal shrinking down into the casting from the vent I used a spoon to refill it. I did this off camera because I didnt have time to set it up. Im amazed it worked.
I did have an issue when applying the second coat of slurry. It was beading off of the sand which was very frustrating. Can I just go with two slurry coats at first?
Thanks
doggo: "is this for me?"
That is the lost stormtrooper in the space
how did you make ceramic slurry?
you buy it
I found a new hobby
You need a rattle gun for knock off, would eliminate some sand blasting.
I’m sorry if I missed it - what PLA are you using?
Its been a while but I believe I used either Hatchbox or Overture.
what's the reason for using an electric kiln to burn out the PLA instead of propane? is it just cheaper?
The torch flame would burn a hole through the ceramic where the kiln on the on the other hand is just got wires that get hot.
What is it the yellow liquid??
Ura genius
Bonjour superbe avez-vous une boutique en ligne merci
where can i buy the suspenda slurry FS?
Ransom and Randolph
Funny that you still see Z-lines from the print. I have one suggestion. Maybe make ABS print with acetone gas treatment to remove the z-lines. Oh, and Celsius degrees while talking next time.
ABS really doesn't burn out very nicely. Unfortunately, neither does HIPS... (just don't... chlorine not good for you -- I was hoping I could 3D print and then do "lost foam" but.... nopenopenope.
Whaaa... (32°F − 32) × 5/9 = 0°C
Dog. Aw cool, a turkey!
Sniff, nah!
BRASIL
Awesome, I know the movie sucked but do a Darth Vader death helmet from the force awakens.
Can I buy one ☝🏽 of this model???
Is it for sale?
That was an extremely tight helmet, no room for skin or hair.
You simple minded individual! He's a special clone cyborg, foo! His helmet is he skin!
when are you going to do another stone cast?
I'll revisit that soon. I'd like to get my hands on some soapstone.
@@robinson-foundry thank you. keep up the good work
2:22 yum
They could base an entire antient aliens series on that, bury it near the pyramids !
The 8 people that dislike this video must be the only creatures in the galaxy that a Stormtrooper actually managed to shoot.
Makes no sense. Would they be happy the stormtrooper died?
Do you have a vid on building the keg-furnace?
Good work.
Too bad i can't find this slurry in Europe at a reasonnable price :-(
what is included inside slurry?
2:25 yummy!
halo full size suit n helmet
It is definitely not a death trooper because of the helmet. Definitely a dead trooper though
0:45 ungenuss alter ungenuss
I think the 3d printed plastic is OK...
...no need for cast...