You're absolutely right...i've been doing the workaround for a while...only on dedicated images because it's so cumbersome but very worth it /in my opinion...Thanks for confirming!
I find DPP just gives a better looking image. It’s difficult to say why but just looks clearer. Probably to do with gamma or lower contrast. Anyway for me just using basic settings with lens correction and auto gamma the result is better than LR. But DPP is so sloooow.
Great video. I am also a strong advocate for canon users to use dpp. I have been using dpp for my raw conversion for 6 yrs now, after being given this tip by a pro birder, and I havent looked back. My 5d3, 5d4 and R5 images have never been sharper. CA is perfectly corrected 99% of the time. I generally do not distortion correct, as this reduces sharpness through pixel interpolation (bad). With dpp, my images definitely have more pop out of the gate, and the 16bit .tiff output is a great starting point for further processing. Even the focus stacking function in dpp works perfectly fine for me - it can stack raw, tiff & jpegs. It grinds my gears when canon lens reviewers do not use dpp to demonstrate that lenses abilities, when dpp is what canon engineers intended - and it is free. No dpp is not slow for the quality it offers. I adjust on immage in a sequence, then copy the settings to the other images in that sequence, then batch the sequence. I have found my r5 a tad bit noisier @ iso 6400 and above, as compared ot my 5d4, due to the r5 smaller pixels. I have also denoised nearly all my images for many years now. The big tip for denoising. On the R5, up to iso6400, in dpp, leave the chrominance denoise as the camera default setting, and slide the luminance denoise all the way off to the lhs. This will remove colour blotchiness, and preserve the detail - the detail information is mainly in the luminance channel. Sharpness off at this state - I denoise later, and you do not want to sharpen the noise at this time. Always remove noise b4 sharpening, otherwise you are sharpening noise. Export as 16bit .tiff. This .tiff file should have a very fine grain 1pix noise structure - this is perfect for denoising. Blotchy > 1pix sized noise is difficult to eliminate. Then denoise with your tool of choice, eg DXO, Topaz. Add a little more sharpening if required - I like 0.5 or 1pix radius unsharp mask. My sharpening is never obvious. Most iso6400 images can be denoised perfectly this way. On the R5, denoising at iso 12800 & 25600, same as above, but, with the luminance slider, I like to use 50% of the defauly luminace denoise setting @ iso25600 - prehaps a 25% success rate for perfect nenoising for me. @ iso12800, play aound with the luminance denoise slider, ie, somewhere between 0 and 50% of the dpp default setting, for a 60% ish perfect denoise success rate.
I've been using DPP just this week for my new R6 files as I was not happy with the RAW processing in Lr. I do find DPP slow to render and save files but it's worth it as Lightroom stands at the moment. Interesting that you are using DPP in your workflow too as a professional photographer. Thanks for sharing your findings.
Hello Helen, thank you for commenting. I do agree that the speed and interface of DPP is not as user friendly as I would like but I have realised that taking a little more time makes a difference in my end result. I hope too share more tutorial on aspects of DPP so thank you also for subscribing.
I am not as critical as you. I am having only from time to time the chance to make more serious photos, but generally I also like to only slightly correct them. No Interest in doing fake, never real pictures that only work as they look spectacular. So DPP was always enough for me and I always liked the results.
The first minute of this talk won me over. Folks spend all this money only to accept terrible raw conversion from Adobe. Canon spends millions in R&D to develop their colors, ALO, etc, only for all of it to be stripped away. It's madness, and I'm sick of it, spending countless wasted hours of my life trying to rebuild something that was exceptional in camera that would only need a few touch ups. Great video Andrew!
@@AndrewAveley After a while of trying to use DPP to incorporate a workflow for weddings It's pretty impossible as it's just too slow. While it offers the best color option around for canon files, I'd highly recommend that you check out Capture One if you haven't before. Capture one offers some of the greatest color tones I've seen in a raw editor. I just upgraded to the R3's for my 2023 season and it handles those files so well! Good luck to you in this year, Andrew!
@@justintibbitts thanks for the reply. I am looking at that package as things get busier this year as I am getting a little tired of LR cc. Enjoy the R3's, they are amazing machines and deliver top quality content
Hmmm... it looks like im on the right track for using dpp4 since i cant afford to buy Lr. but funny thing is, since the first time im using dpp4, it didnt even cross my mind again to buy Lr because im quite satisfy with dpp4 result, so i tried to check yotube for some comparisson between the two and found this video, perhaps i should find out more about dpp4 😊😊😊
Thank you for the comment. DPP is a great RAW convertor but as I mention in the video, not a complete editing suite so if you like a more natural and original feel to your photos, you cant go wrong with DPP 4.
I did a similar experiment this weekend, and yes I found DPP seems generally to produce better results than Lightroom and also DXO Photolab 4. The difference is fairly subtle but noticeable particularly as I am fussy! I have n R5 and 100-500 and am very impressed with the combination. I am finding I am no longer afraid of high ISO, that illness is cured!
Agreed. My RF100-500mm lens just showed up the other day and I took it out yesterday and I really ike it. Very sharp - even shooting moving birds from a bobbing boat at 500mm! Gret set-up combined with my R5.
I just found this video and I agree. I’m on a Mac and my photo editor of choice is the fantastic Photomator… but I understand it uses apples raw engine. I tested dpp4 last night by loading my images and simply using the batch process function to convert the files to 16bit tiff because they play nicer with Photomator vs the Apple raw engine. I did nothing to these images, just converted them. When I looked side by side, the converted tiff from dpp4 was sharper and had better contrast than the cr3 files or even a cr3 file I used Apple preview to convert to tiff. Dpp4 is doing something to these even when you just batch convert and it’s great, gives me a much better starting point when I do my edits in Photomator. I didn’t enjoy editing photos in dpp4 but using it to convert to tiff is fantastic as it turns out. I might try and do some denoising sharpening in dpp4 when I have high iso images after seeing this video and reading some of the comments here. It would make sense that canon software is going to do some cooler tricks with their own images files better than a 3rd party software in some aspects, especially when shooting with canon lenses like I’m doing.
I recently found DPP4. I find that its a very interesting and slick tool, but it doesn't do everything. It's great if all you shoot with is Canon Cameras and Canon lenses, but I like to shoot with other lenses as well as Canon glass. And there are no lens corrections for third party or any of the vintage lenses out there. But knowing this is a Canon product and it was free, I'm fine with that! There are other programs that can deal with lens corrections. Darktable has a vast list of lens corrections for many of the vintage, manual lenses I use. And its free as well. I think you said it perfectly, DPP4 has limitations and that's fine. But it is interesting to see the difference in image quality passing the images through both programs! Thanks!
I have the RF 24-105 f4-7.1 which is known for the weak image corners it produces due to the extensive corrections it requires. Capture One (which I what I use for editing) doesn't have lens corrections for this and I have to manually drag sliders to correct the distortions. Now I've never given DPP a fair chance since it always seemed slow and cumbersome but I recently I compared the results and oh boy the corners turn out MUCH better with DPP. To the point in which I'm open to integrating it in my workflow. My main concern is how to deal with shadows and highlights in contrasty scenes. If I use DPP for lens corrections and DLO, then export as 16-bit TIFF, does that have enough information to recover shadows and highlights? Or should I try to flatten the image in DPP as much as possible then deal with contrast adjustment after exporting? I don't particularly like how DPP handles shadow recovery as to me it looks like the range it works on is too big, creeping into midtones.
I've tried developing RAW in Affinity Photo, but it seems like DPP is much good in handling RAW images from my Canon DSLR. I find Affinity Photo hazy at first open (disabling Auto Tone Curve) but you can just adjust it though, but I tend to go for the software that produces less processing when opening RAW files, and DPP4 is I think the best for me. I've just downloaded DPP4 this day, and started using Affinity Photo (free trial) for about 2 days now. I'm just a beginner in this career and photography is my latest hobby achieved.
Thank you for the comment. For me it is importnat to use the camera to its best and then work with what ever you can feel comfortable with. Good luck with your hobby
Hello there. I assume you are referring to ICC profiles? You can go to settings>colour management and select profiles there. You can see where you can add coulor profiles here on a mac/pc. This is not my website just a link I found helpfull - www.xrite.com/service-support/icc_profile_locations_on_mac_and_pc_operating_systems#:~:text=Mac%20HD%2FUsers%2F%3Cusername,%2C%20try%20a%20search%20for%20*.
Great clip, very helpful. Quick question, I saw you leave the “Sharpness” as is in DPP, you prefer DPP to do the sharpening for you, instead of using the function in LR? Thx
Hello there, thank you for watching and commenting. It is just for basic editing I do that. When I am going to do a fine art or exclusive work I don't add anything and use a special action in PS. FOR general use LR is great.
I have same experience and after editing similar way and doing final things in Photoshop... I found same conclusion... Except the DPP files turned out to bit smaller in size.....
@@Kunoswildworld hello, could you tell me what the size is that you say is to small? If you open the photo IN DPP to Photoshop it becomes a TIFF file and they are not small if you save it
The thing I love the most is being able to point DPP at a folder and batch process the pictures. None of Lightroom's fiddly importing into a "catalog" (and waiting ages for them to load if there are thousands of photos), processing them, and then having to remove them from the "catalog". What a long-winded mess.
Anthony, I agree 100% with you and I regularly bend the ears of Canon South Africa to pass that messag eon to who ever doe the work :) Thanks for viewing and commenting
Thanks for the comparison. I've just started getting into editing RAW photos and have been using DPP, and I've liked it. But I've also been wondering about other programs like Lightroom. So, nice to see some comparisons. Thanks.
Thanks for this video. I was already considering to preprocess my images from my R5 in Dpp. Now i am even more convinced. What editing would you do in Dpp before importing the tiff into lightroom for final editing ( and maybe some special editing in Photoshop ) ? For instance : I saw that changing the work color space from sRGB to adobe RGB in the image settings tab has a dramatic effect. Would it be wise to use that before moving to Photoshop or Lightroom ? b.t.w. i purchased and tested some color profiles for the R5 but they are not as good as dpp.
Hello Hans,thanks for the comment. I will be publishing a short tutorial I hope thi scomming week on my DPP to Lightroom workflow so keep a look out for that and it should give you a good idea of what to do. I always shoot in ADOBE RGB as it give me a little more leeway when printing the finished file and I don't like to change through my process. The common rule is if you export for web use then SRGB is a good colour space but I am finding with all of teh new monitors and viewing devices, my workflow works as well. I only make colour profiles with te hcolour passport checker for my cameras if I am really battling with any issues but so far, DPP works perfectly for me with those special images
And this is my worst fear.... I've been using DPP4 for years. I like its simplicity, directness, lack of distraction and image quality. For my R3 it has a remarkable ability to pull detail out of a small crop in the middle of the file. When you drill down to 100 or 200 percent on screen, it takes about 5 seconds, first time around, to process into it's final, clear image but it does very well. So here's the problem: DPP4 18 doesn't seem able to keep up with Windows anymore. Every couple of days it gets confused and will lock-up for a few hours. You have to let it run and figure itself out for it to recover. It seems to have something to do with interpreting the file and directory structure in Windows. Canon tries to be helpful but doesnt seem to have answer. Over the past few months it's reached the point where my deadlines are at risk and I need to switch to something else. My fear has been that my Canon camera won't produce as incredibly good images as it does if I have to convert to non-manufacturer software like Capture One or Lightroom. You have confirmed that is true. Now that DPP is becoming obsolete my R3 wont be able to pull those impossible crops out of it's very capable, very color rich, very fast sensor as well as it has in the past.
Sorry to read about this, I am not a super technical wizard but maybe look into your settings, general settings and scroll down to "temporary files and clear the cache, increase the availability on disk and it may speed up your systems. Good luck
Thank you for your comment.No they cannot. Canon do not use presets, they have what is called a recipe. One can develop these after editing a image in DPP or using the "Picture Style Editor" software and create you own. I hope that helps
Hello there, what colour profile are you talking about ? Is it a DPP file or from another photo editing website? If it’s from another site, you cant add those to DPP
@@AndrewAveley 158 / 5.000 Risultati della traduzione star_border Hi, as I wrote I have to download a color profile precisely from Saal Digital, my question was how do I apply to print via DPP? thank you
@@maurizioabbate4484 Thanks you but I dont understand what this is 158 / 5.000 Risultati della traduzione star_border WHo is Sall Digtal ? Ar eyou trying to print someing
@@AndrewAveley Saal Digital is an online photo print processing center. When you order prints online they ask you to download the correct color profile for the most accurate print possible, but I don't know how this color profile is applied on DPP
Interesting... when importing to LR I've always converted my files into adobe's .dng vs .cr3 file. Awhile back I read somewhere that it helped with better quality or maybe it was was for better editing? Been so long I don't remember fully. Any input or opinions on converting to dng being better or maybe even worse? Thanks for the helpful tutorial regardless!
Thank you for your comment. From my experience if you do not use the Canon proprietary software to make the conversion, the various advantages of the corrections done in the software do not carry over to any third party conversion including dng. One would have to use a tiff format and then have the advantage of the better quality. I hope this helps your process.
Thanks for you opinion! Very interesting and even if its your subjektive opinion, i think the comparison of the images speaks for itself. Going to try DPP i guess :)
Please let me know your thoughts of my finding with converting a raw file :)
You're absolutely right...i've been doing the workaround for a while...only on dedicated images because it's so cumbersome but very worth it /in my opinion...Thanks for confirming!
@@bobbybrown5180 great to hear and that you see the value of this :)
I find DPP just gives a better looking image. It’s difficult to say why but just looks clearer. Probably to do with gamma or lower contrast. Anyway for me just using basic settings with lens correction and auto gamma the result is better than LR. But DPP is so sloooow.
@@albutt7132 yes, I agree but the speed sometimes makes my coffee intake increase while waiting :)
Great video.
I am also a strong advocate for canon users to use dpp. I have been using dpp for my raw conversion for 6 yrs now, after being given this tip by a pro birder, and I havent looked back. My 5d3, 5d4 and R5 images have never been sharper. CA is perfectly corrected 99% of the time. I generally do not distortion correct, as this reduces sharpness through pixel interpolation (bad). With dpp, my images definitely have more pop out of the gate, and the 16bit .tiff output is a great starting point for further processing. Even the focus stacking function in dpp works perfectly fine for me - it can stack raw, tiff & jpegs. It grinds my gears when canon lens reviewers do not use dpp to demonstrate that lenses abilities, when dpp is what canon engineers intended - and it is free. No dpp is not slow for the quality it offers. I adjust on immage in a sequence, then copy the settings to the other images in that sequence, then batch the sequence.
I have found my r5 a tad bit noisier @ iso 6400 and above, as compared ot my 5d4, due to the r5 smaller pixels. I have also denoised nearly all my images for many years now.
The big tip for denoising.
On the R5, up to iso6400, in dpp, leave the chrominance denoise as the camera default setting, and slide the luminance denoise all the way off to the lhs. This will remove colour blotchiness, and preserve the detail - the detail information is mainly in the luminance channel.
Sharpness off at this state - I denoise later, and you do not want to sharpen the noise at this time. Always remove noise b4 sharpening, otherwise you are sharpening noise.
Export as 16bit .tiff. This .tiff file should have a very fine grain 1pix noise structure - this is perfect for denoising. Blotchy > 1pix sized noise is difficult to eliminate.
Then denoise with your tool of choice, eg DXO, Topaz.
Add a little more sharpening if required - I like 0.5 or 1pix radius unsharp mask. My sharpening is never obvious. Most iso6400 images can be denoised perfectly this way.
On the R5, denoising at iso 12800 & 25600, same as above, but, with the luminance slider, I like to use 50% of the defauly luminace denoise setting @ iso25600 - prehaps a 25% success rate for perfect nenoising for me. @ iso12800, play aound with the luminance denoise slider, ie, somewhere between 0 and 50% of the dpp default setting, for a 60% ish perfect denoise success rate.
Thank you for the comment and your great advice. I really appreciate that tipo and will make use of it for sure.
I've been using DPP just this week for my new R6 files as I was not happy with the RAW processing in Lr. I do find DPP slow to render and save files but it's worth it as Lightroom stands at the moment. Interesting that you are using DPP in your workflow too as a professional photographer. Thanks for sharing your findings.
Hello Helen, thank you for commenting. I do agree that the speed and interface of DPP is not as user friendly as I would like but I have realised that taking a little more time makes a difference in my end result. I hope too share more tutorial on aspects of DPP so thank you also for subscribing.
Je teste DPP depuis 15j et j'en arrive au même constat qu'il donne de meilleurs résultats que DXO ou C1
Thank you for the comment and I am happt to read you also feel the same way about the results
I am not as critical as you. I am having only from time to time the chance to make more serious photos, but generally I also like to only slightly correct them. No Interest in doing fake, never real pictures that only work as they look spectacular. So DPP was always enough for me and I always liked the results.
Thank you for the comment. We all work in different ways but at the end of the day, it is how you see your work that is the most importnat.
The first minute of this talk won me over. Folks spend all this money only to accept terrible raw conversion from Adobe. Canon spends millions in R&D to develop their colors, ALO, etc, only for all of it to be stripped away. It's madness, and I'm sick of it, spending countless wasted hours of my life trying to rebuild something that was exceptional in camera that would only need a few touch ups. Great video Andrew!
@justin Thank you very much for the kind words. Please feel to let e know if there is anything else you may need to know more about.
@@AndrewAveley After a while of trying to use DPP to incorporate a workflow for weddings It's pretty impossible as it's just too slow. While it offers the best color option around for canon files, I'd highly recommend that you check out Capture One if you haven't before. Capture one offers some of the greatest color tones I've seen in a raw editor. I just upgraded to the R3's for my 2023 season and it handles those files so well! Good luck to you in this year, Andrew!
@@justintibbitts thanks for the reply. I am looking at that package as things get busier this year as I am getting a little tired of LR cc. Enjoy the R3's, they are amazing machines and deliver top quality content
@@AndrewAveley Adobe is so destructive to RAW's. I'm blown away that there's not more folks out there that question this and look for alternatives.
Hmmm... it looks like im on the right track for using dpp4 since i cant afford to buy Lr. but funny thing is, since the first time im using dpp4, it didnt even cross my mind again to buy Lr because im quite satisfy with dpp4 result, so i tried to check yotube for some comparisson between the two and found this video, perhaps i should find out more about dpp4 😊😊😊
Thank you for the comment. DPP is a great RAW convertor but as I mention in the video, not a complete editing suite so if you like a more natural and original feel to your photos, you cant go wrong with DPP 4.
I did a similar experiment this weekend, and yes I found DPP seems generally to produce better results than Lightroom and also DXO Photolab 4. The difference is fairly subtle but noticeable particularly as I am fussy! I have n R5 and 100-500 and am very impressed with the combination. I am finding I am no longer afraid of high ISO, that illness is cured!
Great to hear, especially teh fear of high ISO
Agreed. My RF100-500mm lens just showed up the other day and I took it out yesterday and I really ike it. Very sharp - even shooting moving birds from a bobbing boat at 500mm! Gret set-up combined with my R5.
@@robertneal9837 thats great to hear :) Thanks for letting me know.
I just found this video and I agree. I’m on a Mac and my photo editor of choice is the fantastic Photomator… but I understand it uses apples raw engine. I tested dpp4 last night by loading my images and simply using the batch process function to convert the files to 16bit tiff because they play nicer with Photomator vs the Apple raw engine. I did nothing to these images, just converted them. When I looked side by side, the converted tiff from dpp4 was sharper and had better contrast than the cr3 files or even a cr3 file I used Apple preview to convert to tiff. Dpp4 is doing something to these even when you just batch convert and it’s great, gives me a much better starting point when I do my edits in Photomator. I didn’t enjoy editing photos in dpp4 but using it to convert to tiff is fantastic as it turns out. I might try and do some denoising sharpening in dpp4 when I have high iso images after seeing this video and reading some of the comments here.
It would make sense that canon software is going to do some cooler tricks with their own images files better than a 3rd party software in some aspects, especially when shooting with canon lenses like I’m doing.
I recently found DPP4. I find that its a very interesting and slick tool, but it doesn't do everything.
It's great if all you shoot with is Canon Cameras and Canon lenses, but I like to shoot with other lenses as well as Canon glass. And there are no lens corrections for third party or any of the vintage lenses out there. But knowing this is a Canon product and it was free, I'm fine with that! There are other programs that can deal with lens corrections. Darktable has a vast list of lens corrections for many of the vintage, manual lenses I use. And its free as well.
I think you said it perfectly, DPP4 has limitations and that's fine. But it is interesting to see the difference in image quality passing the images through both programs!
Thanks!
Thank you for reading and sharing your thoughts. I hope you will enjoy using the software to the max and share some of your results
I have the RF 24-105 f4-7.1 which is known for the weak image corners it produces due to the extensive corrections it requires. Capture One (which I what I use for editing) doesn't have lens corrections for this and I have to manually drag sliders to correct the distortions. Now I've never given DPP a fair chance since it always seemed slow and cumbersome but I recently I compared the results and oh boy the corners turn out MUCH better with DPP. To the point in which I'm open to integrating it in my workflow.
My main concern is how to deal with shadows and highlights in contrasty scenes. If I use DPP for lens corrections and DLO, then export as 16-bit TIFF, does that have enough information to recover shadows and highlights? Or should I try to flatten the image in DPP as much as possible then deal with contrast adjustment after exporting? I don't particularly like how DPP handles shadow recovery as to me it looks like the range it works on is too big, creeping into midtones.
@stefanbalmus1659 thank you for the thoughst and comment. What is you final output use of the files for you?
@@AndrewAveley If you're asking about printing, that's a very very small fraction. Most of them are viewed on screens.
I've tried developing RAW in Affinity Photo, but it seems like DPP is much good in handling RAW images from my Canon DSLR. I find Affinity Photo hazy at first open (disabling Auto Tone Curve) but you can just adjust it though, but I tend to go for the software that produces less processing when opening RAW files, and DPP4 is I think the best for me.
I've just downloaded DPP4 this day, and started using Affinity Photo (free trial) for about 2 days now.
I'm just a beginner in this career and photography is my latest hobby achieved.
Thank you for the comment. For me it is importnat to use the camera to its best and then work with what ever you can feel comfortable with. Good luck with your hobby
Does DPP offer the ability to add specific IVC print profiles?
If so how.
Hello there. I assume you are referring to ICC profiles? You can go to settings>colour management and select profiles there. You can see where you can add coulor profiles here on a mac/pc. This is not my website just a link I found helpfull - www.xrite.com/service-support/icc_profile_locations_on_mac_and_pc_operating_systems#:~:text=Mac%20HD%2FUsers%2F%3Cusername,%2C%20try%20a%20search%20for%20*.
Thank you for the great clip. Time to start working with DPP a lot more and see if I can drop Adobe PS and LRC. I like free and DPP is free.
Thank you and I hope you find something that works for you
Love your method and common sense. Interesting and educational.
Thank you for watching and commenting
Great clip, very helpful. Quick question, I saw you leave the “Sharpness” as is in DPP, you prefer DPP to do the sharpening for you, instead of using the function in LR? Thx
Hello there, thank you for watching and commenting. It is just for basic editing I do that. When I am going to do a fine art or exclusive work I don't add anything and use a special action in PS. FOR general use LR is great.
I have same experience and after editing similar way and doing final things in Photoshop... I found same conclusion... Except the DPP files turned out to bit smaller in size.....
Thank you for viewing and commenting, and I am glad I could help confirm your thoughts
@@AndrewAveley but can you tell me how correct so that I can get files with bigger size
@@Kunoswildworld hello, could you tell me what the size is that you say is to small? If you open the photo IN DPP to Photoshop it becomes a TIFF file and they are not small if you save it
The thing I love the most is being able to point DPP at a folder and batch process the pictures. None of Lightroom's fiddly importing into a "catalog" (and waiting ages for them to load if there are thousands of photos), processing them, and then having to remove them from the "catalog". What a long-winded mess.
It is fast and efficient workflow but the processing is very slow. I guess you have to adapt it to suit your needs and make it work
@@AndrewAveley worthy trade-off in my opinion.
Its the final images that counts and dpp is clunky has hell to use. if it had a decent interface adobe would be in the poorhouse.
Anthony, I agree 100% with you and I regularly bend the ears of Canon South Africa to pass that messag eon to who ever doe the work :) Thanks for viewing and commenting
Thanks for the comparison. I've just started getting into editing RAW photos and have been using DPP, and I've liked it. But I've also been wondering about other programs like Lightroom. So, nice to see some comparisons. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment and I am glad the video has helped. If you ever ant toget into Lightroom I do one on one online tutorials and training :)
@@AndrewAveley Thanks for the offer. I'll keep that in mind.
Yes i too started using dpp out of own experience.
Thanks for this video.
I was already considering to preprocess my images from my R5 in Dpp.
Now i am even more convinced.
What editing would you do in Dpp before importing the tiff into lightroom for final editing ( and maybe some special editing in Photoshop ) ?
For instance : I saw that changing the work color space from sRGB to adobe RGB in the image settings tab has a dramatic effect.
Would it be wise to use that before moving to Photoshop or Lightroom ?
b.t.w. i purchased and tested some color profiles for the R5 but they are not as good as dpp.
Hello Hans,thanks for the comment. I will be publishing a short tutorial I hope thi scomming week on my DPP to Lightroom workflow so keep a look out for that and it should give you a good idea of what to do. I always shoot in ADOBE RGB as it give me a little more leeway when printing the finished file and I don't like to change through my process.
The common rule is if you export for web use then SRGB is a good colour space but I am finding with all of teh new monitors and viewing devices, my workflow works as well. I only make colour profiles with te hcolour passport checker for my cameras if I am really battling with any issues but so far, DPP works perfectly for me with those special images
@@AndrewAveley
That would be great, thanks
@@jhmnieuwenhuis thanks !
And this is my worst fear.... I've been using DPP4 for years. I like its simplicity, directness, lack of distraction and image quality. For my R3 it has a remarkable ability to pull detail out of a small crop in the middle of the file. When you drill down to 100 or 200 percent on screen, it takes about 5 seconds, first time around, to process into it's final, clear image but it does very well.
So here's the problem: DPP4 18 doesn't seem able to keep up with Windows anymore. Every couple of days it gets confused and will lock-up for a few hours. You have to let it run and figure itself out for it to recover. It seems to have something to do with interpreting the file and directory structure in Windows. Canon tries to be helpful but doesnt seem to have answer.
Over the past few months it's reached the point where my deadlines are at risk and I need to switch to something else. My fear has been that my Canon camera won't produce as incredibly good images as it does if I have to convert to non-manufacturer software like Capture One or Lightroom. You have confirmed that is true. Now that DPP is becoming obsolete my R3 wont be able to pull those impossible crops out of it's very capable, very color rich, very fast sensor as well as it has in the past.
Sorry to read about this, I am not a super technical wizard but maybe look into your settings, general settings and scroll down to "temporary files and clear the cache, increase the availability on disk and it may speed up your systems. Good luck
Going to try DPP today..
Best of luck! You should enjoy the end result
can 3rd party presets be used with DPP?
Thank you for your comment.No they cannot. Canon do not use presets, they have what is called a recipe. One can develop these after editing a image in DPP or using the "Picture Style Editor" software and create you own. I hope that helps
@@AndrewAveley thanks!
Hi, once I have downloaded the color profile from a photo processing site, how can I apply it to the image within DPP? thank you
Hello there, what colour profile are you talking about ? Is it a DPP file or from another photo editing website? If it’s from another site, you cant add those to DPP
@@AndrewAveley 158 / 5.000
Risultati della traduzione
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Hi, as I wrote I have to download a color profile precisely from Saal Digital, my question was how do I apply to print via DPP? thank you
@@maurizioabbate4484 Thanks you but I dont understand what this is 158 / 5.000
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WHo is Sall Digtal ? Ar eyou trying to print someing
@@AndrewAveley Saal Digital is an online photo print processing center. When you order prints online they ask you to download the correct color profile for the most accurate print possible, but I don't know how this color profile is applied on DPP
@@maurizioabbate4484 okay thank you. You can go to the preferences and have a look there were to add it
Interesting... when importing to LR I've always converted my files into adobe's .dng vs .cr3 file. Awhile back I read somewhere that it helped with better quality or maybe it was was for better editing? Been so long I don't remember fully. Any input or opinions on converting to dng being better or maybe even worse? Thanks for the helpful tutorial regardless!
Thank you for your comment. From my experience if you do not use the Canon proprietary software to make the conversion, the various advantages of the corrections done in the software do not carry over to any third party conversion including dng. One would have to use a tiff format and then have the advantage of the better quality. I hope this helps your process.
@@AndrewAveley thanks!
i love your accent!!!!!
Thank you :)
Nice job!
Thank you
There is no comparison....DPP4 is much better than Lightroom as far as the look of the base image. Skin tones and overall color is much better.
Thank you for the comment and watching, I cant agree with you more :)
I've found the same thing. Much better skin tone rendering in DPP4 indeed
@@lsamoa Glad to hear
Thanks for you opinion! Very interesting and even if its your subjektive opinion, i think the comparison of the images speaks for itself.
Going to try DPP i guess :)
Thanks for viewing and commenting. Hope you find it works for you
Thanks !
My pleasure
! "..independent..", not "independant"
Thank you.