6L80 Assembly PT2 - Final Assembly (DEMO) - Please Read Description
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- ** This video (part 2 of a two-video series) shows the reassembly of a 6L80 CORE that will NOT be going back into a vehicle thus no new parts were used that would otherwise be installed**
I finish up the 6L80 core demonstration rebuild, putting everything into the case and reattaching the valve body assembly, pan etc. Also covered is air-checking, pump stator design changes and other related tidbits.
The purpose of these 'DEMO' videos is to simply show the assembly process and procedures so the viewer can get a good understanding of the scope and level of effort involved when it comes to rebuilding one of these transmissions.
This particular unit was subsequently disassembled so that the internal hard parts/components can be used in future videos or in actual rebuilds as replacement hard parts.
Sonnax pump rear thrust washer: www.sonnax.com...
Gears Mag/Parking Pawl Actuator TSB: gearsmagazine....
More info:
*** It's recommended you retro a second design stator-pump cover assembly onto any 6L80E pump body/bell housing that came with the first design stator (see below)
6L80E Key Lifecycle Updates
mid-2007: Low sprag one-way clutch updated from 30 to 38 elements for increased durability
mid-2009: Stator redesigned to accept locking sealing rings support o-rings underneath sealing rings to improve sealing integrity against 3-5-R drum (referred to as '2nd design stator')
2010: 1-2-3-4 apply piston redesigned to reduce clutch failure due to the piston cracking; issues were still reported but not as frequent. Recommend installing Sonnax billet aluminum piston for all years
2012: Unigear style ring gear for output planetary carrier - rear speed sensor also changed to coincide with transition to unigear design.
2014: Eighth check ball added to upper valve body; separator plate redesigned (2010+ can use extra check ball if updated 2014+ separator plate is installed)
2018: Parking rod and bullet assembly hardness improved to prevent failure resulting in driver inability to place vehicle into park
More details: atracom.blob.c...
Parts List for all 6L80 rebuilds:
www.tahoeyukon...
Hello Nick,
Just wanted to let you know that I finished my 6L80 overhaul. I went through the valve body a second time. I took out all the valves , cleaned it really good and reinstalled all the valves making sure they were all moving freely. I paid special attention to installing the new balls. When I started the engine the transmission went into drive with no problem. I had a transmission tech from my local transmission shop do the quick relearn. It shifts beautifully. Thanks to all your help it appears that I did everything right. My local transmission shop even offered me a job. So thank you very much for all your time you spent answering my questions and your fast responses. You helped me tremendously.
Awesome, man - great work! Every day you drive that truck, you know you're driving your work and not someone else's...Glad I was able to help you. 🍻
This is definitely in my top three picks for best videos for this transmission
Awesome - glad to hear that Matt.
Thank you for watching!
I just turned my input shaft and the back spun like you said it shouldn't debut when I hold the rear shift it doesn't spin how loos should it be?
Never mind I just figured it out
Great Part 2. Thanks for sharing your expertise and making these videos. I've never seen anyone in other videos lubricate the center section. Great idea since it seems difficult for everyone to slide in easily. I hope your 6L80 High Performance build comes out before I rebuild mine. I could really use the help.
Thank you, Koelzspeedgarage!
Hello Nick. Bravo for another great detailed video, chocked full of info. I have a 2009 6L90 out of a 4x4 in the shop that I'm in the process of rebuilding. Your advice for replacing the park rod instead of inspecting/reusing it is spot-on. This 6L90 is out of a 2009 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L 4x4 with over 200K miles. This trans has definitely been rebuilt before & the rivet on the park rod is also worn & getting replaced. Replacing the park rod on every rebuild is cheap insurance. There's an informative Gears Magazine article that details the problems with the 6L80/6L90 park rods wearing out. The article is titled:
6L80/90E Park Rod: “A Closer Look” The article has several illustrations on parking rod wear/damage & what to look for. The 6L80 park rod actuator measures at 12.75" while the 6L90 is longer in length, measuring 14" The only problem with the Gears article is that it lists the same part number for both park rods. The correct ACDelco part number for the 6L90 park rod is 24242088. Take care buddy, great job on the videos.
Thanks again, Keltecfan!
Appreciate the continued viewership. And you're correct - the GEARS mag does get the part number wrong but at least provides the length so folks can distinguish if need be.
Thank you so much for this video.
You are welcome, Zach!
Thank you for watching!
Awesome video and quality !
Thanks, man!
You can get the large snap ring pliers , for 90 bucks from Lang tools. I have a set from Lang, which I just bought out of curiosity. I also have a set from adapt-a-case. They both work very well.
Thanks for the tip, Larry. $90 is a good price for those. Adapt-A-Case makes good stuff as well.
I'm working for Nick's Ferraro many years ago
Thank you for watching, Pablo!
HELLO'
I would like to see a detailed 4L30E(Isuzu) rebuild video one day!
Keep up the good work Man!
Thanks, man! Ill gladly do a video series on the 4L30E once i get one in. Those are interesting transmissions...
Using a small strap will close the large snap ring & Tie wire double tied will hold that large snap ring on installation if you don’t have those pliers
Interesting - never heard of folks using a strap and wire for that snap ring so learn something new every day!
Thanks for the tip and for watching, Ivan!
Keep up the good uploads man
Thanks, will do!
Awesome video!!!
Thanks, Daniel!
Awesome!!
Thanks, HMG!
Hi Nick, I assembled my components into my 6L80 case today. Everything went together easily. I twisted and shimmyied the 3-5-R drum with the lifting tool for quite a while. My pump assembly went down with the bell housing slightly going over the case dowel pin. The bell housing is still about an 1/8 of an inch from sitting flat on the case.I've tried tapping the bell housing down with a rubber mallet with no results. I guess try rotating the 3-5-R drum with a screwdriver while keeping pressure on the bell housing to help line up the sun gear??? IT'S SO close.
Just wiggle the bell until the male splines on the pump's stator mesh with the female splines on the sun gear. No hammers! It will mate flush to the case deck on its own once splines mesh.
@@nickstransmissions Ok, Thank You. I will keep trying to get it to seat.
@@nickstransmissionsHi Nick, Today I finally got the last clutch in the 3-5-R hub to line up and allow the hub to drop all the way down. For some reason it took a lot of twisting and shaking but I got it. And the pump housing slipped right in and down. Thank you so much for all your help. You have been so helpful for me. I can't wait to get it back in my car and let you know how it works out.
@koelzspeedgarage2796 you're welcome, man.
Hello Nick great video, thanks for all the info, am about to start my rebuild this week already have it out. One question though I have a 2008 4wd unit I’ll like to make it into a 2wd. What’s all the parts I will need to convert the output shaft to 2wd?
Hi thanks for the kind words, Herzon. You just need to install the correct output shaft assembly and extension housing...You will also need to yank out the rear plugs and seal as they will be present on 4WD applications. This video and 6L80 Assembly PT1 - Subassemblies (DEMO) should give you all the visual/procedural guidance you need to do the output shaft swap then when you have the case emptied, you can remove the rear seal and plugs.
If you put the 456 hub in the 456 drum while you air check. You can check compensator feed for the 1234 / 35R also.
What I want to know is where, you got that engine stand. I have been looking all over for a engine stand like that. The legs are straight.
Hey Larry, great tip - thank you for sharing! Check out listing 285459515435 on eBay for that same engine stand ($105 shipped, plus sales tax for your state.
What about the compensator feed port which is the middle port between 1234 and 35r when you air check it it clicks but after that never does it again and leaks to the 456 port what could that be? And to get the compensator to re click i believe you have to hit the 35r or 1234 with air to de apply the compensator to get it to click again after that it just leaks to the 456 after it clicks once with shop air benching
Could that mean my sealing rings are bad on the input shaft?
@@qaysalshwaiyat905
It’s been my experience that I usually cut the seal putting it in. However, when you stack it like it was stacked. And you put the 456 hub in the 456 clutch pack. You have to hold the 456 hub when you air check it. The 1234 / 35R drum will move up. On new seals the drum Will usually need to be pushed back down by hand. Also, new seals will sometimes need to have atf squirted into the apply ports. This will expand the seals. To seal correctly.
If you are having trouble getting the air check. Fill the port with atf apply air. Spin the drum a few times. And recheck.
I have had the problem you are describing. Unstack the assembly. Check the input seals. Repair if needed. If no problem is seen. Restack, add the atf, air check and spin the drums. See if that doesn’t solve the problem.
Do you have a preferred friction disc? Going in a 6000lbs 4wd vehicle used for off-road, ~500whp.
Hi Chris, I like Raybestos Stage One, GPZ or Alto High Energy (Reds or Raybestos blues for racing). I'd also recommend a good tune for your powertrain. Many like to remove the TCC apply from gears 2-4 as part of the transmission tune.
Can you replace the parking rod with only removing the valve body?
Hi Trent, removing the valve body/TEHCM complex helps as it's out of the way but you still need to remove the two roll pins (one holding the rod to the selector and the other that holds the selector in place on the case) if you want to replace the parking rod assembly. You DO NOT have to remove the rear roll pin for the parking pawl housing...There's two o-rings there that, if leaking, will require the removal of that housing but if it's not leaking, you can leave that third roll pin alone.
@@nickstransmissions I need any special tools to remove the roll pin? I'm thinking my rod got damaged from the tow truck so I'm trying to fix it myself. I was in a wreck a couple of months ago.
didn't see this last question...You can try removing the roll pin for the selector shaft with some long diagonal cutters and pry upwards until you pull it out...the roll pin for the rooster comb is removed and reinstalled by a roll pin punch and hammer.
Hello
I have a question 2014 6L90 transmission does good until it heats up then it doesn’t want to pull in reverse, I have it torn apart but I don’t see anything worn. Can I please get your opinion?
Thanks
Herman
Hi Herman - thank you for watching...How was third and fifth gear, any slipping or delayed engagements?
Have you leak-tested the 3-5-Reverse drum for leakage at the welds at the base of the drum? Do you have the equipment to vacuum-test your valve body and pump? both 3-5-R and Low-Reverse clutch packs were not glazed or stressed?
What you're describing sounds like leakage either in the 3-5-R drum, pump stator sealing rings, stator-to-stator support gasket or excessive wear in the valve body and/or pump.
Tanks so much I am checking out those problem areas now , I have already noticed my pump halves are scarred and gouged pretty bad so far.
Spin it while you're jerkin it around a lil bit 😂
Hey nick awesome videos quick question can i use 2010 awd cadillac as a core to rebuild for 2010 silverado 1500 6l80 both the silverado is 5.3 4x4
Thank you, John! You should be able to use the 2010 Cadillac as long as you either transfer your TEHCM to the Caddy transmission or simply purchase a new TEHCM for your Silverado's operating system version...The output shafts may or may not be a different length but if so, simply install your Silverado's output shaft in place of the one that came with the Cadillac code.
That said, why not just rebuild the one in your Silverado?
What about the compensator feed port which is the middle port between 1234 and 35r when you air check it it clicks but after that never does it again and leaks to the 456 port what could that be? And to get the compensator to re click i believe you have to hit the 35r or 1234 with air to de apply the compensator to get it to click again after that it just leaks to the 456 after it clicks once with shop air benching
Could that mean my sealing rings are bad on the input shaft?
Great question - I will do another, separate video that walks through the compensator feed circuit and air checks more thoroughly, etc at some point in the near future but to answer your question, wear in that top teflon sealing ring can present as leaks upon air checking. You would never re-use those sealing rings though, so no biggie if you're doing a preliminary bench check simply for diagnostic purposes or to help validate an initial failure mode diagnosis. If you're still seeing leakage after sealing ring replacement then either something went wrong during installation/resizing or the stator itself is bad.
which kit will be the best kit for the 6l90 the zip kit or trans go
Either will work great, it's a matter of personal preference when it comes to deciding between those two kits...Thanks for watching, Boss.man!
Hi Nick. You mentioned that this transmission is relatively easy. How would it compare against Ford’s 6R80 and 140 units in that respect? What would be the top three difficult and top three easiest ones in your experience?
Hi Shalash, based on my own experience and point of view, I'd say the TH350, C6 and 727/TF8 transmissions are the least complex/nuanced and great for beginners to get started with.
The 200-4R presents with the most complexity as far as GM units are concerned, IMO.
The Ford 6Rs and GM 6Ls are all based on the ZF6 HP26 and all three families of transmissions are fairly straight forward. The BWM transmission valve body assemblies can be tedious owing to all the little restrictors between the spacer plates and channel plates in those transmissions.
@@nickstransmissions Just out of interest, where would you rank Chrysler's RFEs and Ford's AOD/4R75 family? What about some of the older stuff like the FMX or Powerglide?
Hi Nick, My 6L80 rebuild is completely finished. I've started the vehicle and have the fluid at the proper level according to my aftermarket dipstick. The transmission will go into reverse but will not go into drive. I'm thinking that I might have assembled the new reverse sprag clutch upside down. I thought it was free wheeling in the counter clockwise direction and grabbing in the clockwise direction when I assembled it. I might be second guessing myself.Also, I have not had my local transmission shop do the quick relearn. Any ideas what my problem could be?
Do the fast relearn - that must be done before anything else. If it completes successfully and you still have no movement in drive, manual then you need to take it back out and see what happened.
Ok I will give that a try. Thank you very much.
You're welcome, man.
Hi Nick, I am adding a B&M deep pan on my 6L80 rebuild. Is there any special filter or filter extension to use with that?
Yours didnt come with one? Check the interior height/depth where the filter is - maybe you dont need it but all the B&M deep pans that require a filter extension tube come with them.
@@nickstransmissions thanks again for the quick reply. No it did not come with one. That's why I was curious because I know some deep pans require an extension. Nothing said about it in their directions either. Maybe I should call them to make sure?
You're going to get tired of hearing from me. I'm sorry. So I greased my center support with trans gel and it dropped right into the case on the first try. My 3-5-R hub will not go in. I replaced the bushings in the 3-5-R center support with Durabond film coated bushings ( in the red box). Now the 3-5-R hub will not go into the center support. I do not want to force it obviously. Have you ever experienced this? Any advice?
3-5-R center support? Do you mean the bushings in the 3-5-R hub or center support?
If you haven't done so already, pull the center support back out and install the 3-5-R hub into the rear planet to make sure it's not getting hung up there instead of the support. If it splines into the planet as expected, determine exactly where it's getting caught up in the support. If it is the bushings, install standard OEM replacement bushings in the support and see if you have the same issue. If you do, something is not right somewhere on the center support or the 3-5-R hub. Bushings can occasionally be either a bit tight fitting or straight-up out of spec or parts may be ever so slightly out-of-round in the bushing area...You can try to clearance the bushings like I show in my 4L80E and TH400 bushing installation videos as it's common for the sun gear shaft bushings to be too tight for the intermediate shaft in those transmissions...Same principle apply here...
Let me know what you find.
@@nickstransmissions The old bushings that I took out of the center support slide over the 3-5-R hub with no problem. So I guess the new durabond bushings that I paid more money for are crap because they obviously have a smaller inside diameter. I will just install OEM ones. ALSO, I had wrote you previously telling you that I had a difficult time getting then new Sonnax sprag clutch installed into its hub.I finally got it installed to where the snap ring went right in.You mentioned that you use the Borg Warner brand sprags. Well just so you know, the Sonnax brand looks like all they did was re-package an OEM sprag, and charge more money for it. It looks identical to the OEM. Thanks so much for all your help.
You're welcome. I wouldnt be surprised if Sonnax repackaged a BW sprag with their snap ring and covers...Ive always used the OEM assembly as I know it works, never had any come back for broken sprag after overhaul...Arent these fun, haha. You will get yours together and it will work nicely...encountering and solving these kinds of problems are the norm in the transmission building world so dont feel discouraged...
My hub that holds the planetary ravenol gear set does not have a snap ring to remove to gain access to the 2 large gears. The gears appear to be machined into the hub. Does that sound right? Or am I losing my mind?
If you're referring to the ravingeaux gear set in the rear of the trans, nope not losing your mind. There's no snap ring but the seal needs to be pulled and replaced and that seal's removal enables you to gain access to the sun gears and bearings for inspection purposes.
If you're referring to the ring gear itself, and you have a 2012+, you have a unigear design which is different than 2011 and back.
@@nickstransmissions Thank you for that reassurance. LOL. I thought I was losing it. Mine is a 2013. So its obviously a unigear. I learned another lesson from you. I did not get that roller bearing/seal in my rebuild kit for some reason. I do have the Torrington bearing though. Do you happen to know the part number for that seal? Also, is there any trick to installing the tail shaft seal? It appears to be slightly larger than the tail shaft mounting area.
The seal and bearing kit is separate and should be available from GM (I don't know the part number off hand but GM sales or anywhere on the net should be able to have it). Also check with your local transmission hard parts supplier (Transstar has distributiors/retailers in most major cities). No tricks to install any of the front or rear/extension housing seals, just use the appropriate sized driver or you can purchase seal-specific Kent Moore brand seal drivers off eBay.
Hey Nick, Awesome videos! On the air check of the 456 drum , same as you have set up on the bench, I have air coming out compensator feed port and center of shaft. The 456 clutches do apply but don't hold air pressure immediately after air is released. Also what psi air should be applied? Thank you.
Thanks, Peter!
The 4-5-6 clutch should apply and hold air pressure as long as you're flowing air into the circuit but as soon as air is released they will release. The compensator feed hole should hold a bit of air after airflow stops but before the nozzle and your finger is released, assuming you're testing the compensator feed circuit on the bench w/the pump, 3-5-R drum and 4-5-6 drum along with the three hubs all assembled...I use anywhere from 75-100 PSI typically as it's fairly close to what those clutches will see at lower to moderate RPMs.
Thank you Nick, Appreciate the response. Keep up the good work!
You're welcome, Peter and will do!
Hey Nick, I rebuilt and installed in 2015 Chevy Tahoe. It drives in limp mode 3rd and reverse I believe. Also engine light on despite removing codes with scanner. Will not illuminate Manual or tow mode on the dash selector. Any ideas? I did check plugs for connections.
@@petermilner5493 Hi Peter. Did you perform a fast adapt relearn?