I just took off the cylinder head bolts and whole thing came off as 1 unit and had machine shop take care of the rest. Great video, very educational and detailed 👍🏼
@@randyrhodes9124 if you are just doing a head gasket job, yes, you technically can just unbolt and rebolt the head on. HOWEVER, you will definitely want to deck the head and block and clean those surfaces up, so you will have to rotate the cam so you don’t damage valves while sanding the head surfaces. There’s a bit more to it, but if you feel your valve guide seals are good, you won’t have to disassemble the valves and springs, etc.. or lap the valves.
Awesome video, I have a question if you don't mind,.... For the same engine, I have humming sound that comes from the right side of the engine ( battery side), what do you think that the cause of the humming from that side??
Off hand I couldnt tell ya.. best option is to make a video and post it. Ask for some answers. Might not be the best answers, but it’ll point you in a direction. If your abs unit is over there, could be that. They short out internally and buzz a bit. But again, not exactly sure.
Great job! Can you help me out? The timing belt on my 2007 kia rio5 broke I was driving it. I replaced the belt but the car just cranks but it won't turn on
Interference engine, bent valves. Going to need a new engine, or you can replace the valves in the head, or just the head.. but, it may have more damage to the wrist pin, rods, or bearings. I won’t rebuild them anymore if they interfere. I’d replace the motor.
Not sure if you can help me with some answers but my 08 Rio let out a cloud of white smoke on the highway and it didnt want to change gears for a few seconds. Then I put oil in because it was low and it runs fine, but could it be a blown head gasket or valve cover? I did a pressure test on each of the 4 spark plug wells and all gave same results except for one which spun the meter around twice and sat at 0 both tests. The car starts up fine and I havent driven it much since the highway incident because I'm worried.
Tengo una pregunta, si el vehículo se apagó repentinamente, al revisar la correa de tiempo no da vueltas, aunque el damper si lo hace, que puede haber sucedido? Sospecho que es la chaveta que del piñón, mi duda es si el motor dobla o no las válvulas
hay un 99 por ciento de posibilidades de que las válvulas estén dobladas. lo que probablemente sucedió es que la correa se rompió por el cigüeñal y no se engancha. es por eso que no ve la parte superior del cinturón girando. si es un motor de interferencia, consiga uno nuevo.
If it’s burning it, and not leaking, you can try adding some rizlone to your engine oil. But I would add it over the course of a week (because of the viscosity issues). Also, you could have larger problems with the engine. I would find a local mechanic and get a diagnosis done.
I hope you can help me. How to know wheres those valve lifter should be? is there a guide? coz when mechanice fix my head because of belt. theres a rattling noise in cylinder head. i think he didnt know where to put thos valve lifters
If he just did a belt replacement because the belt broke, then you probably have bent valves, and the lifters are loose and rattling. If it was just a replacement for preventative maintenance, then it’s possible the belt tensioner was installed incorrectly. Or a Miriad of other possible issues.
You may be able to, there should be some notches on the cam, and if you rotate them carefully, you should be able to get a socket on the head bolts. However, some head bolts on some engines are under the cams, and on those you would need to remove the cans first.
It’s been s while since I did this job, but since it was a tear down I think I got away with using a torx bit. Either a 45 or 55. Not the right way to go about it, but it worked If you leave the cams in, you’ll need a long Allen socket, I’m not sure what size though.
@@MechanicalTriage thx, i found that too, but i think that is for the newer models. i also found the older models which are completely different. cant find the second generation torque specs. i found this but i want to confirm it. Cylinder Head Bolts: 1: 21.7 ft. lbs. 2: 90 deg. 3: Back Off Fully 4: 21.7 ft. lbs. 5: 90 deg
@@dankollars4501 that’s one that I read also, but I’m not sure which one is correct either. Once I disassembled that engine and found piston damage, I informed the customer and he didn’t like my pricing for a new head, so I never go to install it again. If you ask the folks at O’Reilly, per your specific vehicle, via the vin number, they should be able to pull up torque specs for that specific motor.
@@dankollars4501 there may or may not be a second 90 degrees there, not sure.. I can look it up on Mitchell and cross it to O’Reilly info if you want to email me the license plate number, and the production date in the door jamb.
Too bad, great camera, great content, but moves way to fast to follow along & very shaky. I was hoping to use this for reference but between the horrible music, shaking and moving way too fast I'm going to hope someone posts a better video, I've been a mechanic for forty years.
I agree. But, it was one of my very first videos and I was still experimenting with everything. Not saying I got any better. But, I’m sorry that it wasn’t good for reference material. Again, was still experimenting with walkthroughs and camera editing. I’ll hopefully make better quality content in the near future, so that things like these are addressed and fixed. Thank you for posting constructive feedback. I honestly appreciate it.
I have a 2011 rio i took the head to get it shaved and the seats cut and after 2 trips back to the machine shop the valves still leak so no compression and i verified it with my leak down tester and air hose. i just replaced the guides and new valves my self and i am tempted to buy new springs and have the seats checked again at another machine shop. i need to get the car going for a back up any suggestions i am listening. This is not my first rebuild more like my 20th and i have had more issues getting this thing right than any other i have ever rebuilt.I have also thought about buying a rebuilt head but not to thrilled about the reviews of some company's selling them. Also where do you buy your rebuilt heads?
First thing I would check is the valve seat angle. Paint the valve seat on the head and valve with a marker or paint and do a quick 10 second lap. See if it’s even seating properly. Problem could be that the machine shop isn’t cutting the main angle properly. Or you have bent valves. ( we bought a new head, for the 302 bronco, roller rocker and all. Turns out, before installed, sent it to a machine shop, tore it down, and 4 valves were out of seat tolerance by .0015. Even weak springs should seat for a compression test, weak springs would be more dangerous with valve float and interference. On another note, I bought a head from O’Reilly for my 87 ram 50, I polished the intake and exhaust, and touched the seat with the dremel a couple times, so I had to lap the hell out of the intake side anyway. Maybe do a quick lap on all of them and make sure you have a good solid seating. Why did it go in for a milling in the first place? What head gasket are you using? MLS or conventional, and, did you deck the block before slapping it back together?
Also, depending on what it went in for in the first place, did you bore out the cylinder walls to check roundness? Re-ring it? Hone it? Might be a seriously shot ring issue? If not, how many miles? Cause if it’s over 130k the rings are going to blow out from the higher compression on the top end once you get it back.
@@MechanicalTriage i bought the car for 300 and rebuilt it new rings hone and valve seals and drove it to work while i waited on the new radiator. it came in 2 weeks later and i installed it and pinched the plastic fan and drove it 3 miles up the road and burned it up. i bought a remanufactured short block and it looks good so when i get the head straight it should be good. doing a air test with the head off the car with the compressor i still get bubbles going past the valves . i will see if i can lap the valves in again and get them to seat the valves are new and the guides. the block deck i checked with a machinist straight edge so the block deck and the head are true no problem there .
I agree, but the customer didn’t pay me.. and he didn’t like the estimate for a new head. So I threw the head in a garbage bag and left it in his driveway. Blocked his number and moved on.
So the valves that allowed the brake cleaner to get passed them were bent? Could you just replace those 2 valves and lap them in and put it back together now? Or would you need to get the head shaved etc...
Actually, there seemed to be 8 that were bent. 6 leaked extremely slowly. according to the low compression test from the other video I did, I would have to replace 2 and at the least lap 6 more. The two that were extremely bent could have damaged the valve guides, or jammed the rod bearings, and may cause a knock once reassembled. A new head would be required. A new engine would be suggested
Ryan Larson cheap customers!! Who don’t want to do a job correctly. Parts for replacement would include all valve guides, valves, regrinding seats, machining head surface, so roughly $800, plus my time. Used head would be $150. Slap it back on. Also, gotta wonder if it bent a rod or any other internal issues? So, I’ve decided not to do used engine installs or damaged rebuilds anymore after this adventure.
@@MechanicalTriage thanks so much for your response. I did not see any piston damage in your video but a bit hard to say and nothing is worse than spending a lot of money only to find out problems go deeper than expected. . I see your point on cost adding up for the head rebuild.
There’s going to be quite a bit more damage than just the camshaft. If it was an oil pump issue, the whole engine is shot, all the main and rod bearings and the piston walls. Even if it was just the cam oil journal, the metal from the camshaft has circulated through the engine and through the oil pump, and the whole engine is shot. So, honestly, if metal went through the motor, you can tear it down to every nut and bolt to inspect it, or just start looking for a replacement. Those kia engines aren’t great, and probably not worth rebuilding.
History of the engines oil changes, type of oil, mechanical pressure testing, there are things you can do to check and prevent damage, but if a bearing decides to over heat and spin, blocking an oil journal, then you won’t really know until it’s too late. If a sludge ball clogs one of the oil journals to one of the cam caps/bearings, you wouldn’t really know until it’s too late also. It’s kind of like a heart attack or a blood clot, you really can’t prevent one single action. All you can do is your best to be healthy up to the point that you have a clogged artery or heart attack. It’s not really something you can pinpoint and stop.
This was one of the first videos I made, I was extremely busy trying to get this and other jobs done. I put this video up mostly to have a record of it, and also to share it. I didn’t have a lot of time to ad comments to this one. Sorry, I have been trying harder on some of my more recent videos.
I just took off the cylinder head bolts and whole thing came off as 1 unit and had machine shop take care of the rest. Great video, very educational and detailed 👍🏼
what do u mean it came off as whole unit?
Head, cam, and all the valves and rockers.. I believe.
so that would mean i dont have to completely tear it down i can just undo my bolts and pull it off and put new seal right on?
@@randyrhodes9124 if you are just doing a head gasket job, yes, you technically can just unbolt and rebolt the head on. HOWEVER, you will definitely want to deck the head and block and clean those surfaces up, so you will have to rotate the cam so you don’t damage valves while sanding the head surfaces.
There’s a bit more to it, but if you feel your valve guide seals are good, you won’t have to disassemble the valves and springs, etc.. or lap the valves.
Good video. also appreciate your answers to questions and discussion.
like that you showed previous job great intro.
Now how to know if those valve lifters is for exhause and intake? can you help me please?
The intake and exhaust valves are different sizes.
The lifters are the same.
You are correct, I misread the question. I still try to keep them in order, but this motor was a complete loss.
Awesome video, I have a question if you don't mind,.... For the same engine, I have humming sound that comes from the right side of the engine ( battery side), what do you think that the cause of the humming from that side??
Off hand I couldnt tell ya.. best option is to make a video and post it. Ask for some answers. Might not be the best answers, but it’ll point you in a direction.
If your abs unit is over there, could be that. They short out internally and buzz a bit. But again, not exactly sure.
Great job! Can you help me out? The timing belt on my 2007 kia rio5 broke I was driving it. I replaced the belt but the car just cranks but it won't turn on
Interference engine, bent valves. Going to need a new engine, or you can replace the valves in the head, or just the head.. but, it may have more damage to the wrist pin, rods, or bearings.
I won’t rebuild them anymore if they interfere. I’d replace the motor.
Do you remember the hex size of the head bolts? Inknow is is Allen but dont know the size
Profe usted hizo algún video como segunda parte de este para el armado de nuevo
Not sure if you can help me with some answers but my 08 Rio let out a cloud of white smoke on the highway and it didnt want to change gears for a few seconds. Then I put oil in because it was low and it runs fine, but could it be a blown head gasket or valve cover? I did a pressure test on each of the 4 spark plug wells and all gave same results except for one which spun the meter around twice and sat at 0 both tests. The car starts up fine and I havent driven it much since the highway incident because I'm worried.
Tengo una pregunta, si el vehículo se apagó repentinamente, al revisar la correa de tiempo no da vueltas, aunque el damper si lo hace, que puede haber sucedido? Sospecho que es la chaveta que del piñón, mi duda es si el motor dobla o no las válvulas
hay un 99 por ciento de posibilidades de que las válvulas estén dobladas. lo que probablemente sucedió es que la correa se rompió por el cigüeñal y no se engancha. es por eso que no ve la parte superior del cinturón girando. si es un motor de interferencia, consiga uno nuevo.
Disculpa , estoy usando un programa de traduccion
What is the torque spec for the head bolts and cam holders? TIA
How long did it take to remove it?
It was a long time ago, but I think it took about 3 hours.. I was setting up and moving the camera a lot also though.
Pls my Kia Rio 2013 model always burn out engine oil. Pls what will I do to fix it.
If it’s burning it, and not leaking, you can try adding some rizlone to your engine oil. But I would add it over the course of a week (because of the viscosity issues).
Also, you could have larger problems with the engine. I would find a local mechanic and get a diagnosis done.
@@MechanicalTriage ok thanks so much. I will love to get more clarity on it..
I hope you can help me. How to know wheres those valve lifter should be? is there a guide? coz when mechanice fix my head because of belt. theres a rattling noise in cylinder head.
i think he didnt know where to put thos valve lifters
If he just did a belt replacement because the belt broke, then you probably have bent valves, and the lifters are loose and rattling. If it was just a replacement for preventative maintenance, then it’s possible the belt tensioner was installed incorrectly. Or a Miriad of other possible issues.
Can you remove the head without removing the cams? I have a stock 2011 Rio
You may be able to, there should be some notches on the cam, and if you rotate them carefully, you should be able to get a socket on the head bolts. However, some head bolts on some engines are under the cams, and on those you would need to remove the cans first.
Hi do you have the torque specs plz as I’m doing a head gasket on my Kia and your engine looks the same
What year/model/engine do you have?
What socket did you use for the head bolts?
It’s been s while since I did this job, but since it was a tear down I think I got away with using a torx bit. Either a 45 or 55. Not the right way to go about it, but it worked
If you leave the cams in, you’ll need a long Allen socket, I’m not sure what size though.
It’uses 5/16 & 3/8
Why theres number in Valve lifters? is this kia rio?
I number them so there are no clearance issues when i reassemble the engine. In case I remove them or they get moved around.
This kia rio which model
2007
i have a 07 kia rio and cant find the head torque specs, how did you torque yours?
The one I worked on had issues, and never went together again.
But I found this.
www.kirmanual.com/installation-170.html
@@MechanicalTriage thx, i found that too, but i think that is for the newer models. i also found the older models which are completely different. cant find the second generation torque specs. i found this but i want to confirm it. Cylinder Head Bolts: 1: 21.7 ft. lbs. 2: 90 deg. 3: Back Off Fully 4: 21.7 ft. lbs. 5: 90 deg
@@dankollars4501 that’s one that I read also, but I’m not sure which one is correct either. Once I disassembled that engine and found piston damage, I informed the customer and he didn’t like my pricing for a new head, so I never go to install it again.
If you ask the folks at O’Reilly, per your specific vehicle, via the vin number, they should be able to pull up torque specs for that specific motor.
@@dankollars4501 there may or may not be a second 90 degrees there, not sure.. I can look it up on Mitchell and cross it to O’Reilly info if you want to email me the license plate number, and the production date in the door jamb.
Too bad, great camera, great content, but moves way to fast to follow along & very shaky. I was hoping to use this for reference but between the horrible music, shaking and moving way too fast I'm going to hope someone posts a better video, I've been a mechanic for forty years.
I agree. But, it was one of my very first videos and I was still experimenting with everything. Not saying I got any better. But, I’m sorry that it wasn’t good for reference material. Again, was still experimenting with walkthroughs and camera editing. I’ll hopefully make better quality content in the near future, so that things like these are addressed and fixed. Thank you for posting constructive feedback. I honestly appreciate it.
I have a 2011 rio i took the head to get it shaved and the seats cut and after 2 trips back to the machine shop the valves still leak so no compression and i verified it with my leak down tester and air hose. i just replaced the guides and new valves my self and i am tempted to buy new springs and have the seats checked again at another machine shop. i need to get the car going for a back up any suggestions i am listening. This is not my first rebuild more like my 20th and i have had more issues getting this thing right than any other i have ever rebuilt.I have also thought about buying a rebuilt head but not to thrilled about the reviews of some company's selling them. Also where do you buy your rebuilt heads?
First thing I would check is the valve seat angle. Paint the valve seat on the head and valve with a marker or paint and do a quick 10 second lap. See if it’s even seating properly.
Problem could be that the machine shop isn’t cutting the main angle properly. Or you have bent valves. ( we bought a new head, for the 302 bronco, roller rocker and all. Turns out, before installed, sent it to a machine shop, tore it down, and 4 valves were out of seat tolerance by .0015.
Even weak springs should seat for a compression test, weak springs would be more dangerous with valve float and interference.
On another note, I bought a head from O’Reilly for my 87 ram 50, I polished the intake and exhaust, and touched the seat with the dremel a couple times, so I had to lap the hell out of the intake side anyway. Maybe do a quick lap on all of them and make sure you have a good solid seating.
Why did it go in for a milling in the first place?
What head gasket are you using? MLS or conventional, and, did you deck the block before slapping it back together?
Also, depending on what it went in for in the first place, did you bore out the cylinder walls to check roundness? Re-ring it? Hone it? Might be a seriously shot ring issue? If not, how many miles? Cause if it’s over 130k the rings are going to blow out from the higher compression on the top end once you get it back.
@@MechanicalTriage i bought the car for 300 and rebuilt it new rings hone and valve seals and drove it to work while i waited on the new radiator. it came in 2 weeks later and i installed it and pinched the plastic fan and drove it 3 miles up the road and burned it up. i bought a remanufactured short block and it looks good so when i get the head straight it should be good. doing a air test with the head off the car with the compressor i still get bubbles going past the valves . i will see if i can lap the valves in again and get them to seat the valves are new and the guides. the block deck i checked with a machinist straight edge so the block deck and the head are true no problem there .
using the factory mls head gasket
Professor you made some video as a second part of this for editing again
Unfortunately no.. I never wanted to see it again. Lol
I like this video,, 👍👍
Would’ve been nice seeing you put it back together
I agree, but the customer didn’t pay me.. and he didn’t like the estimate for a new head. So I threw the head in a garbage bag and left it in his driveway. Blocked his number and moved on.
@@MechanicalTriage can’t tell if you’re trying to be a troll 👎
@@spaceboysloth hard to troll a video that I uploaded.. but no, that’s An honest explanation of why I didn’t make a follow up video.
So the valves that allowed the brake cleaner to get passed them were bent? Could you just replace those 2 valves and lap them in and put it back together now? Or would you need to get the head shaved etc...
Actually, there seemed to be 8 that were bent. 6 leaked extremely slowly. according to the low compression test from the other video I did, I would have to replace 2 and at the least lap 6 more.
The two that were extremely bent could have damaged the valve guides, or jammed the rod bearings, and may cause a knock once reassembled.
A new head would be required. A new engine would be suggested
@@MechanicalTriage why would the head need to be replaced and simply not rebuilt at a machine shop?
Ryan Larson cheap customers!! Who don’t want to do a job correctly.
Parts for replacement would include all valve guides, valves, regrinding seats, machining head surface, so roughly $800, plus my time.
Used head would be $150. Slap it back on. Also, gotta wonder if it bent a rod or any other internal issues? So, I’ve decided not to do used engine installs or damaged rebuilds anymore after this adventure.
@@MechanicalTriage thanks so much for your response. I did not see any piston damage in your video but a bit hard to say and nothing is worse than spending a lot of money only to find out problems go deeper than expected. . I see your point on cost adding up for the head rebuild.
@@MechanicalTriage $800 isn't worth it for a throw away car. Maybe for a Toyota or Honda.
I have kia rio 1.4 2010. Can you help me, please?
What’s the issue?
@@MechanicalTriage
My camshaft is damaged because lubrication was stuck. How to repair the camshft?
There’s going to be quite a bit more damage than just the camshaft.
If it was an oil pump issue, the whole engine is shot, all the main and rod bearings and the piston walls.
Even if it was just the cam oil journal, the metal from the camshaft has circulated through the engine and through the oil pump, and the whole engine is shot.
So, honestly, if metal went through the motor, you can tear it down to every nut and bolt to inspect it, or just start looking for a replacement. Those kia engines aren’t great, and probably not worth rebuilding.
@@MechanicalTriage
Ok, i'am understand now
And than How we do know if circulation of lubrication is good?
When I warming up every morning,,
History of the engines oil changes, type of oil, mechanical pressure testing, there are things you can do to check and prevent damage, but if a bearing decides to over heat and spin, blocking an oil journal, then you won’t really know until it’s too late.
If a sludge ball clogs one of the oil journals to one of the cam caps/bearings, you wouldn’t really know until it’s too late also.
It’s kind of like a heart attack or a blood clot, you really can’t prevent one single action. All you can do is your best to be healthy up to the point that you have a clogged artery or heart attack. It’s not really something you can pinpoint and stop.
Terrible music
I’ll go ahead and agree with you. It was one of my first videos, and I hadn’t been making music that long either.
no commentary? why not?
This was one of the first videos I made, I was extremely busy trying to get this and other jobs done. I put this video up mostly to have a record of it, and also to share it. I didn’t have a lot of time to ad comments to this one.
Sorry, I have been trying harder on some of my more recent videos.