Porting Pistons: Opening Windows, Reducing Weight, Aerodynamic Improvements etc.

Use a 56mm Hyway pop-up as example of a "felling saw" piston, and a 54mm Saw Salvage pop up to show a beefier "bucking saw" piston -- I've yet to find half a thousandth of distortion in any of my slugs yet and am actively measuring when inspecting my builds at 5, 10 and 15 tanks after a new head is put on. In addition to the more aggressive grinding it's also worthwhile to gently sand any rough-ish edges, even the crown (GENTLY) at the exhaust & transfer areas to create smoother gas-flow, just beware how quickly you can pick-up lower-end-displacement porting pistons (and lowers), this may be desirable but may not be (was for me when, say, upping the cylinder displacement by going big-bore, now the lower end displacement is more "proportionately in-line" w/ Stihl OEM spec)

[@joescissorhands141]

NOTE-- That Zip-Tie?? RING-COMPRESSOR!! I've never understood how/why anyone bothers with hand-held ring compressors when you can use zip-ties, the fat type let you get 2 rings otherwise just use (2) zip-ties, the jug slides them downward off the piston (and you just snip them w/ wire-snips) This lets you seat you rings properly on the locator-pins and BE DONE with that, both hands free, to do your work (man I'm trying to imagine putting jugs on when 1 hand is holding a ring-compressor...no thanks....very surprised this zip tie trick isn't everyone's default!!)

[@outboardfixer]

WTF