I race BSCRA cars in the UK and for inline gears I always cut a piece of 3/32 brass tube to place between the gear and the bushing, you have to cut this so that you have the right amount of play in the gear mesh. It makes it very difficult to strip a gear, but each time you prep for a race meeting you may have to add a very thin washer or replace the tube to compensate for the wear of the gear.
Thank you Mark for sharing this information… especially for those who couldn’t make it down for the event. Much love too your brother and keep up the good work🏁
Hi Mark, greetings from Australia. Thanks for sharing this information, I plan to change my car's setup based on the setup tips, excepting the wood guide which is not allowed on our wood tracks! . With regard to the 2 body screws I assume that you tighten them fully. Its an area of inconsistency that some people loosen body screws on cars that have a pod, so loose motor pod and loose body, so I don't know which is best. Also, the extra 2 screws you added have to screw into something....so in addition to the screw metric screw pack, you have to obtain the red cups, not sure how you purchase those, thanks
Hi Greg! Thank you for watching!! I leave the body screws just a little loose so that it can move a bit. Yes, you will need two additional cups for the extra screws. NSR part number 4876. You should be able to find them. Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
@@lufranopropertiesllc1877 we race at Silicon City Raceway in San Jose. The club is planning to host regular Zoom meetings for planning races. The guys also race at a track in Santa Rosa and one in Berkeley/Oakland, but I have not been to those tracks yet.
Nice video , i have only raced on plastic tracks so have suspension fitted to my pod , but i have an event on wood track coming up can you tell me how much you loosen the pod screws by
Hi, thanks for watching! I start with 1/4 turn and go from there. I want the motor pod to float in all directions on a flat plane without any tilt. Happy Racing and God Bless!!
Hi, thanks for watching! I was just experimenting with a white chassis for the Mosler. After straightening the chassis, I just couldn’t keep one of my front wheels from lifting. So, I went back to the original chassis and it’s running tip top! Happy Thanksgiving and God Bless!!!
@@TRXperienced Ok. Will do. I just wondered why you would change from a 27t to a 24t crown gear. Is it for the gear ratio with the reduced tyre diameter or for more Drive ability off the turns?
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I race BSCRA cars in the UK and for inline gears I always cut a piece of 3/32 brass tube to place between the gear and the bushing, you have to cut this so that you have the right amount of play in the gear mesh. It makes it very difficult to strip a gear, but each time you prep for a race meeting you may have to add a very thin washer or replace the tube to compensate for the wear of the gear.
Hi Michael,
Thank you for your comments! Great tips!! Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
@@TRXperienced You may have to cut the motor shaft that protrudes beyond the pinion, this can prevent a tighter correct mesh to reduce backlash.
Hey I also run that pice of brass tube on inline cars and 1/24 too, thats were it started for me back in the mid 60's Lol...
Nice car, i like very much Camel brand in slotcars 😉
Thank you Mark for sharing this information… especially for those who couldn’t make it down for the event. Much love too your brother and keep up the good work🏁
You are most welcome Morpheus!! God Bless and Happy Racing!!
Great video Marc! Thanks for sharing the info.
You are most welcome Frank! Happy Racing and God Bless!!
Marc thank you for this great video, now I have work do on my NSR F1 setup! And I might phon you for more info.
Hi, thanks for watching! I would be happy to help with any questions that you may have!! Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
Great video legend
Great video just starting out in slot cars 1/32 so any videos on tips for newcomers would be appreciated. Not much info here in Australia.
Hi Andrew! Thank you for your comments!! Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
Hi Mark, greetings from Australia. Thanks for sharing this information, I plan to change my car's setup based on the setup tips, excepting the wood guide which is not allowed on our wood tracks! . With regard to the 2 body screws I assume that you tighten them fully. Its an area of inconsistency that some people loosen body screws on cars that have a pod, so loose motor pod and loose body, so I don't know which is best. Also, the extra 2 screws you added have to screw into something....so in addition to the screw metric screw pack, you have to obtain the red cups, not sure how you purchase those, thanks
Hi Greg! Thank you for watching!! I leave the body screws just a little loose so that it can move a bit. Yes, you will need two additional cups for the extra screws. NSR part number 4876. You should be able to find them. Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
I painted an NSR F1 in the same livery for my brother! We only race in the SF Bay Area so we probably won't cross paths. :)
Hi Steven! Well, you just never know!! Just in case, I’ll be working on a few more customs. Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
@@TRXperienced my is a 1989 Benetton B189. I figured it was unique enough to spot around the track.
Hi Steven,
I’m in the sf Bay Area also, east bay.
Where are you and your brother racing?
@@lufranopropertiesllc1877 we race at Silicon City Raceway in San Jose. The club is planning to host regular Zoom meetings for planning races. The guys also race at a track in Santa Rosa and one in Berkeley/Oakland, but I have not been to those tracks yet.
@@stevenmantegani4313 thank you for getting back to
Me! I’m in the Oakland/Berkeley area. I didn’t even realize there is a track nearby!
Nice video , i have only raced on plastic tracks so have suspension fitted to my pod , but i have an event on wood track coming up can you tell me how much you loosen the pod screws by
Hi, thanks for watching! I start with 1/4 turn and go from there. I want the motor pod to float in all directions on a flat plane without any tilt. Happy Racing and God Bless!!
What size are the NSR brass metric screws you use for the body & pod?
Hi! Thank you for watching! The screws are M2.2 x 6.5 mm.
@@TRXperienced Thank-you
Do you have the part number for the brass metric screws?
Hi Bob! Thank you for watching!! Part # 4839
M2.2 X 6.5mm. Happy Racing and God Bless!!!
Would you do that set up to a mosler ?
Hi, thanks for watching! I was just experimenting with a white chassis for the Mosler. After straightening the chassis, I just couldn’t keep one of my front wheels from lifting. So, I went back to the original chassis and it’s running tip top! Happy Thanksgiving and God Bless!!!
Are you sure the motor isn't in upside down? The crown gear looks to be on the opposite side to what is conventional (for me).
This is the standard configuration out if the box. Happy Racing & God Bless!!
Is your track a fast track with a lot of straights?
Two long straights then elevation and technical turns. Check out Electric Dreams here on the TH-cam Channel!!
@@TRXperienced Ok. Will do. I just wondered why you would change from a 27t to a 24t crown gear. Is it for the gear ratio with the reduced tyre diameter or for more Drive ability off the turns?
@@pjwyman1971 Yes, definitely much more responsive back on the throttle!!
So he made the car fast by upgrading parts. Pretty simple
Hi Ian! Thanks for the comments! Well, he is a heck of a racer too!!!