Such a privilege to be given this sort of access to a craftsman at work. Nice to see the ‘doubt’ in Ricky’s face is still the same as us mere mortals when bolting cases together after the sealant is applied.
Thank you for explaining the process of assembly as you go through it. Knowing "that" you are supposed to do something doesn't always include the "why" you are doing it. Now I understand the "why" of lubing under bolts,rod bolt stretch and break away torque. I do those things when assembling engines because I've been told that I should do it but now I have a clear understanding of the why. I enjoy the tech videos because while they may not be exactly the same as what I personally am doing at their core I can take bits and pieces then transfer the lessons learned to what I am working on. Always remembering to remain absolutely as clean as possible during the process of whatever you are doing because it will have a lasting effect on the final product of your work. Thank you again and please continue to mix in the tech videos they are a great learning tool for me personally.
You’re question wondering whether viewers find this kind of video interesting..? YES..! Very interesting, extremely informative. Love watching quality craftsmanship.
Hats off for doing this while explaining and having people around you and talking to you. When I build any engine, I like to be left completely alone so nothing distracts me. So easy to make a mistake if your attention isn't 100%
Hey Kate, I know how hard it must be being the backbone of the company, keeping things together so when I visit the boy's can have a beer but I'll get u a bunch of flowers, lol. Keep up the great work guy's! 👍
Adding An Extension To A Torque Wrench Formula: TA x L L + A = TW Example: 250 ft. lb. Dial Wrench using a 2” long crowfoot adapter L = Effective Length: 18.75” Desired Torque = 250 ft. lb. Length of Adapter = 2” Result: 18.75" x 250 ft. lb. 18.75" + 2" = Pull Wrench to 226 ft. lb.
I watched Matt Armstrong putting together his Ferrari Scudaria engine this afternoon ( from a couple of months ago ). He slathered assembly lube UNDER all of his mains and big end bearings! I hope he got away with those very tight tolerances and would have the bearing caps loosened off after the assembly lube finally squeezed out I wonder? You on the other hand Ricky are the consummate professional engine builder with such attention to detail I've not seen before. Great job Ricky!
I saw that video when it came out a few weeks ago, I’m pretty sure his dad did that because that’s how he was thought. You gotta take into account that Armstrong Sr. was working on 60-80s engines with loose tolerances. I totally agree that the back of the bearing should be 100% clean and dry, just imagine how much more probable it is to get an invisible hair stuck between the rod and rod bearing if it’s smothered in lube. An average human hair is .008mm, average rod bearing clearance is .025mm, minimum clearance is .020mm, so if you drop a hair between the rod and rod bearing the clearance is only .0017mm, it’s out of spec, could easily cause a spun rod bearing. This is why you should keep your work area clean, it’s why real race engines are assembled in clean rooms.
My 2 cents… 1. Why did you got the block and lower frame so clean then use a sharpie to map out a sealant line. You obviously know what you’re doing. Better to follow a diagram/picture. 2. You say you don’t like rotating the crank when the thrust washers are in but you did anyway to triple check. This caused your lube to run onto the block mounting surface 45:50 which I worry could affect the sealant. Like marking bolts when torqued make yourself a check sheet you can tick off when steps are complete to keep the paranoia at bay (I am just as paranoid as you when building engines).
We do that anyway. The build log book we use is far more extensive than a tick sheet. There is no sealant near the main bolt webbing, like I said in the video I don’t like doing it but sometimes you have to if you have military visibility with the main girdle in place. I know the sealant location by heart but still mark it out, ego and thinking you know better is what gets you in trouble. Mark your sealant route, check it, run your sealant, check it…..it’s what works for me!
Great content. I love the engine build stuff. Your attention to detail, the way you explain each step of the process & the reasons for doing them is fantastic
I reckon doing up those big end bolts, if you use a speed brace, it'll be easier on your fingers and save the second operation of grabbing tbe ratchet. Awesome to watch it going together
Love the care and attention to detail which Ricky puts into his build. I'm sure when his clients waych this they get a nice warm feeling. Genuine question, when do you need to use plasti-guage as in this instance you didn't feel the need?
Another master class in attention to detail. Your videos would be great to show in colleges to apprentices to reinforce their learning. Do you ever get visits from colleges, takes up a lot of time but i think would inspire so many youngsters.
Great content guys. Rebuilt my 1968 Porsche 912 engine 30 years ago and it still runs. Can't say my knowledge or tools are anything like yours. Next project is my 1972 DeTomaso Pantera Ford 5.7L V8 for which I have no clue, but going to have a go. Need to buy some tools before I start!
Ring end gap is a big point of discussion... But the rings do rotate when the engine runs, if you ever get time, run a piston up and down in the bore a couple times, then pop the piston out of the bore, and see if they are where you put them. I know everyone has their own way, but it seemed like a real struggle to set that crank in over the rods. I've always put the crank in first, since you seem to do a fair number of these things, IMHO it would be worth making up 1 or 2 delron blocks to bolt on and hold the crank in place
Gentlemen thank you both AND the "bringer of the crank shaft"...... I find it a delightful meditation to join you all. Again VERY MUCH APPRECIATE these videos..... oh and may you all have a lovely Christmas.
Well Done do we get a "Certificate of Completion " or something we helped and shouted directions along the way through all the previous episodes cheers pete
Ricky , genuine question. When you fitted the girdle, and applied the sealant you then rotated the engine. A small amount of assembly grease came off the end bearing, would this not affect the torque and therefore the seal ? Or is the sealant thicker than the excess assembly grease ?
Loved watching this. Built my first engine last winter and was pranging about everything. Not to this level of course but glad I was along the right lines being so particular about everything 🤣👌
Great video, I'm a bike guy working on older air/oil cooled engines, but I pick up lots of helpful workshop pointers from your attention to detail and process...👍
Master Class. Truly appreciated. The focus and attention to detail in building something special in a high stakes arena. Love it, glad it wasn’t me for once. On to the McLaren for a good watch….. Cheers, strong work.
what's mundane for you is really interesting for me, the quality and attention to detail is extraordinary and bordering on cod 😁 almost makes me want to buy an S6 like those other lads di, just so I can bring it to you and watch you are it apart fix it and put it back together again. 🤣 Hi Kate 🙂
Hmm ive been told to go on the inside of the bolt when using silicone so there is less chance of oil leaking through the threads/ heads of the bolts . never tried doing it the other way round because its all on customer cars
Excellent watch ... do you allow the others to undertake complete engine builds, do you teach them ? "You're so wise. You're like a miniature Buddha, covered in hair"
Love the channel. Can you kindly answer a question - the main bearings and the rod bearings for a 5.0 L - are they the same as for a 5.2 ? I can find a lot of 5.2 bearings of different sizes but nothing much for a 5.0L. Al
Keep the extension wrench at 90° when using it with a torque wrench because the readings will be off as this way you’re extending the leverage. Otherwise, top notch work!
Awesome content! QQ: why do you not lubricate the backs of bearing shells? To reduce the chance of spinning? And why are the thrust ones ok with assembly lube behind for sticking to the girdle? (Absolutely not a challenge, just interested in the why)
Hi! I posted a question on Lambotalk and a user said Ricky is the right person to ask this. I am wondering what is the difference between these to engine codes: 07L 103 021 P (07 Spyder, EU model) , 07L 103 021 D (08 Spyder, Canada model). I have the 07 EU Spyder and looking for a replacement crankcase and I only found D ending blocks. Just the bare engine block needed. And I don't know if it is good with the P ending block's internals. Looking forward for your answer, thanks! :)
Really interesting video. Two questions. 1: Why fit the crank after the pistons & rods? It didn't look easy. I'm sure there's a good reason, but just curious. 2: Why fit the main bolts before fitting the sump, as they only have to come back out again? Is it to check everything turns OK? If so, how often do you actually have to strip back? Best, Nick
I explain the rods and pistons first bit in the video…won’t get the stretch gauge in with the lower girdle in. As for the main bolts on the 5.0 the lower covers them. On the 5.2 I’d have to relive them again to install it but do it to pull everything square and let the sealant go off etc.
Thanks for the reply. Hard work this engine! I thought the 5.0 was like the 5.2. Isn't the RS6 5.0 like the 5.2? Edit: I did get the bit about the girdle getting in the way of the stretch gauge in a way that individual bearing caps don't. But I suppose I was just thinking of fitting the crank and the main bearings like most other engines, then use the girdle just as a holder (with a few bolts and no sealant) while fitting the pistons from above, then flip it up, remove the girdle, fit the rod caps, then fit the girdle permanently. But that's starting to get complicated, isn't it?
Ricky what would the finishing torque be on the bottom main end bolts and what effect does that have on the break away torque Compared to when they are torqued to 20NM Would be interested to see
Does lube under the shell bolts screw up your torque setting? Or is that taken into account within the stretch allowance? I'm thinking of people who copper slip wheel bolts, torque them up and then wonder why they walk themselves back out.
The Cybertruck has a flat front end combined with a sharp angled point leading up toward the windscreen. If it hits a pedestrian they are less likely to go over the bonnet and more likely to be pushed away or go underneath. This would fail UK and EU regulations.
A cliffhanger again. Right mounting lube ,right thickness of the sealer in the right place. Right amount of torq to turn the engine with the right sound.
Being an engineer for 50 years this is just magic to watch. Can't get enough.
Said it before & say it again, always enjoyable with a Karl being realistic 😅
Thank you for watching
Such a privilege to be given this sort of access to a craftsman at work. Nice to see the ‘doubt’ in Ricky’s face is still the same as us mere mortals when bolting cases together after the sealant is applied.
Thank you for explaining the process of assembly as you go through it. Knowing "that" you are supposed to do something doesn't always include the "why" you are doing it. Now I understand the "why" of lubing under bolts,rod bolt stretch and break away torque. I do those things when assembling engines because I've been told that I should do it but now I have a clear understanding of the why. I enjoy the tech videos because while they may not be exactly the same as what I personally am doing at their core I can take bits and pieces then transfer the lessons learned to what I am working on. Always remembering to remain absolutely as clean as possible during the process of whatever you are doing because it will have a lasting effect on the final product of your work. Thank you again and please continue to mix in the tech videos they are a great learning tool for me personally.
For Christmas can we get a compilation special edit of Carls most realisticist moments please 🙋♀️
You’re question wondering whether viewers find this kind of video interesting..?
YES..! Very interesting, extremely informative. Love watching quality craftsmanship.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching.
I love watching these as much as any of the other videos!!
I enjoy these videos a lot! Not that I have cars with 10 cylinders at home, but I learn something new from you every time. Thank you!
Hats off for doing this while explaining and having people around you and talking to you. When I build any engine, I like to be left completely alone so nothing distracts me. So easy to make a mistake if your attention isn't 100%
Hey Kate, I know how hard it must be being the backbone of the company, keeping things together so when I visit the boy's can have a beer but I'll get u a bunch of flowers, lol. Keep up the great work guy's! 👍
Adding An Extension To A Torque Wrench
Formula: TA x L L + A = TW
Example: 250 ft. lb. Dial Wrench using a 2” long crowfoot adapter L = Effective Length: 18.75” Desired Torque = 250 ft. lb. Length of Adapter = 2”
Result: 18.75" x 250 ft. lb. 18.75" + 2" = Pull Wrench to 226 ft. lb.
You are a surgeon for engines! Just amazing to watch! Thanks from Auckland, NZ
I watched Matt Armstrong putting together his Ferrari Scudaria engine this afternoon ( from a couple of months ago ). He slathered assembly lube UNDER all of his mains and big end bearings! I hope he got away with those very tight tolerances and would have the bearing caps loosened off after the assembly lube finally squeezed out I wonder? You on the other hand Ricky are the consummate professional engine builder with such attention to detail I've not seen before. Great job Ricky!
I saw that video when it came out a few weeks ago, I’m pretty sure his dad did that because that’s how he was thought. You gotta take into account that Armstrong Sr. was working on 60-80s engines with loose tolerances.
I totally agree that the back of the bearing should be 100% clean and dry, just imagine how much more probable it is to get an invisible hair stuck between the rod and rod bearing if it’s smothered in lube. An average human hair is .008mm, average rod bearing clearance is .025mm, minimum clearance is .020mm, so if you drop a hair between the rod and rod bearing the clearance is only .0017mm, it’s out of spec, could easily cause a spun rod bearing. This is why you should keep your work area clean, it’s why real race engines are assembled in clean rooms.
Those guys assemble engines, they don't build them like a genuine professional does.
Yeah but if the engine ejects its rods, he has more content to make. If Rick messes up, a customer car dies.
@@aidencoder Exactly.
McLaren Engine build ....can't wait for that!
Watching a master builder at work is a joy!
Thank you for watching.
You’re welcome! I look forward to it every week, especially the engine and gearbox builds.
Definitely not a mundane video! 👏👏
Pretty extensive finger action there lads 😎
Learnt loads of stuff watching these engine builds
Absolutely fascinating and memorising and the silence was tense! Would love a job with you guys!
Top notch , “So” informative!
My 2 cents…
1. Why did you got the block and lower frame so clean then use a sharpie to map out a sealant line. You obviously know what you’re doing. Better to follow a diagram/picture.
2. You say you don’t like rotating the crank when the thrust washers are in but you did anyway to triple check. This caused your lube to run onto the block mounting surface 45:50 which I worry could affect the sealant.
Like marking bolts when torqued make yourself a check sheet you can tick off when steps are complete to keep the paranoia at bay (I am just as paranoid as you when building engines).
We do that anyway. The build log book we use is far more extensive than a tick sheet.
There is no sealant near the main bolt webbing, like I said in the video I don’t like doing it but sometimes you have to if you have military visibility with the main girdle in place.
I know the sealant location by heart but still mark it out, ego and thinking you know better is what gets you in trouble.
Mark your sealant route, check it, run your sealant, check it…..it’s what works for me!
Im watching this in the bath, with candles and a scotch. What a relaxing Sunday evening. Perfect. It almost makes me wanna have a go myself. Almost.
thanks Ricky your videos are helping me rebuilt my S6 5.2
Absolutely fascinating. A master at work.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
It’s like watching a genius at work
Quality build attention to detail spot on 👍
You forgot the second circlp on number11, really enjoyed this an excellent video so methodical, using a marker for that sealant top tip thanks
Absolutely brilliant do more of that 👌👌
Mesmerised watching this video found it fascinating the best yet 😊
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
Great content. I love the engine build stuff. Your attention to detail, the way you explain each step of the process & the reasons for doing them is fantastic
Thank you very much!
Great build rick tar lar
great job again lad fantastic work next video please
Once again, really enjoy the engine stuff.
I reckon doing up those big end bolts, if you use a speed brace, it'll be easier on your fingers and save the second operation of grabbing tbe ratchet.
Awesome to watch it going together
Love the care and attention to detail which Ricky puts into his build. I'm sure when his clients waych this they get a nice warm feeling.
Genuine question, when do you need to use plasti-guage as in this instance you didn't feel the need?
Always enjoy the engine and technical videos. Love the bike ones. Good luck next season
Another master class in attention to detail. Your videos would be great to show in colleges to apprentices to reinforce their learning. Do you ever get visits from colleges, takes up a lot of time but i think would inspire so many youngsters.
Amazing attention to detail. Really enjoyed how you explain every step. Happy to see more of this.
Great content guys. Rebuilt my 1968 Porsche 912 engine 30 years ago and it still runs. Can't say my knowledge or tools are anything like yours. Next project is my 1972 DeTomaso Pantera Ford 5.7L V8 for which I have no clue, but going to have a go. Need to buy some tools before I start!
Ring end gap is a big point of discussion... But the rings do rotate when the engine runs, if you ever get time, run a piston up and down in the bore a couple times, then pop the piston out of the bore, and see if they are where you put them.
I know everyone has their own way, but it seemed like a real struggle to set that crank in over the rods. I've always put the crank in first, since you seem to do a fair number of these things, IMHO it would be worth making up 1 or 2 delron blocks to bolt on and hold the crank in place
Brilliant. My favourite.. relaxing & enjoyable. 👍🏻⭐️
Thank you
Whats your thoughts on the Honda nr750 oval piston design? I guess I didn't catch on for a reason
Gentlemen thank you both AND the "bringer of the crank shaft"...... I find it a delightful meditation to join you all. Again VERY MUCH APPRECIATE these videos..... oh and may you all have a lovely Christmas.
Thank you very much. Have a lovely Christmas too
Does refusing to go to the gym count as resistance training?
Well Done do we get a "Certificate of Completion " or something we helped and shouted directions along the way through all the previous episodes cheers pete
always learning from your channel,thank you so much.love all the content on the channel even the grumpy one makes me happy :)
Ricky , genuine question. When you fitted the girdle, and applied the sealant you then rotated the engine. A small amount of assembly grease came off the end bearing, would this not affect the torque and therefore the seal ? Or is the sealant thicker than the excess assembly grease ?
Another great video, I love cars and watching the technical side and experience you have, learning so much 😃
Glad you enjoy and they are helping. Thanks for watching.
Loved watching this. Built my first engine last winter and was pranging about everything.
Not to this level of course but glad I was along the right lines being so particular about everything 🤣👌
Great video, I'm a bike guy working on older air/oil cooled engines, but I pick up lots of helpful workshop pointers from your attention to detail and process...👍
Master class
Always a fascinating, educational video, thanks guys, and Kate 👍
Master Class. Truly appreciated. The focus and attention to detail in building something special in a high stakes arena. Love it, glad it wasn’t me for once. On to the McLaren for a good watch….. Cheers, strong work.
top vid 👍 awesome attention to detail.
Love this type of content, as I do with all you put out. Thanks
appreciate that! Thank you
what's mundane for you is really interesting for me, the quality and attention to detail is extraordinary and bordering on cod 😁 almost makes me want to buy an S6 like those other lads di, just so I can bring it to you and watch you are it apart fix it and put it back together again. 🤣
Hi Kate 🙂
Interesting offset conrod pin design not seen that before or maybe all the modern stuff is like that 🤔 nice video so much attention to detail 👍
Hmm ive been told to go on the inside of the bolt when using silicone so there is less chance of oil leaking through the threads/ heads of the bolts . never tried doing it the other way round because its all on customer cars
Awesome stuff guys
Excellent watch ... do you allow the others to undertake complete engine builds, do you teach them ? "You're so wise. You're like a miniature Buddha, covered in hair"
Outstanding Knowledge, love watching your engine videos they are so informative. On another note.... When are the bobble hats arriving?
How have you calibrated the torque wrench when tightening the rod bolts with the crows foot?
Love the channel. Can you kindly answer a question - the main bearings and the rod bearings for a 5.0 L - are they the same as for a 5.2 ? I can find a lot of 5.2 bearings of different sizes but nothing much for a 5.0L. Al
Thank goodness its not a V12, that would be a faff! Great video Ricky!
Amazing work 🤙🏼
Bedankt
Thank you
Where did you get the sealant gun from Ricky ?
Keep the extension wrench at 90° when using it with a torque wrench because the readings will be off as this way you’re extending the leverage. Otherwise, top notch work!
Yeah I have a sheet with it all converted on mate.
@toolzandnewideasI have explained it. And shown on video how to do it. Not sure what more I can do.
love it learn so much
Glad you enjoy it! Thank you
How do you allow for that offset tool when using the Torque wrench ?
Great video. Do you balance the crank or each piston / rings / rod assembly?
Awesome content! QQ: why do you not lubricate the backs of bearing shells? To reduce the chance of spinning? And why are the thrust ones ok with assembly lube behind for sticking to the girdle? (Absolutely not a challenge, just interested in the why)
Maybe it will be because of the lubricant affecting the tolerance between bearing and crank?
Hi! I posted a question on Lambotalk and a user said Ricky is the right person to ask this. I am wondering what is the difference between these to engine codes: 07L 103 021 P (07 Spyder, EU model) , 07L 103 021 D (08 Spyder, Canada model).
I have the 07 EU Spyder and looking for a replacement crankcase and I only found D ending blocks. Just the bare engine block needed. And I don't know if it is good with the P ending block's internals. Looking forward for your answer, thanks! :)
Great content 👌
Ricky, I know you said you worked it out, but does the extension spanner for the stretch gauge make any discernible difference? like, 1 or 2 lb ft?
Really interesting video. Two questions.
1: Why fit the crank after the pistons & rods? It didn't look easy. I'm sure there's a good reason, but just curious.
2: Why fit the main bolts before fitting the sump, as they only have to come back out again? Is it to check everything turns OK? If so, how often do you actually have to strip back?
Best, Nick
I explain the rods and pistons first bit in the video…won’t get the stretch gauge in with the lower girdle in.
As for the main bolts on the 5.0 the lower covers them. On the 5.2 I’d have to relive them again to install it but do it to pull everything square and let the sealant go off etc.
Thanks for the reply. Hard work this engine! I thought the 5.0 was like the 5.2. Isn't the RS6 5.0 like the 5.2?
Edit: I did get the bit about the girdle getting in the way of the stretch gauge in a way that individual bearing caps don't. But I suppose I was just thinking of fitting the crank and the main bearings like most other engines, then use the girdle just as a holder (with a few bolts and no sealant) while fitting the pistons from above, then flip it up, remove the girdle, fit the rod caps, then fit the girdle permanently. But that's starting to get complicated, isn't it?
@@Welwynnickno all different mate
Ur rings look lovely
Why are the crank pins offset ? ( great video by the way ).
👍🏼
Its to get equal firing intervals. The 5.2 has straight pins and unequal firing intervals and sounds different.
@@Welwynnickwhat he said lol
What brand of bearings do you prefer?
Ricky what would the finishing torque be on the bottom main end bolts and what effect does that have on the break away torque Compared to when they are torqued to 20NM
Would be interested to see
Does lube under the shell bolts screw up your torque setting? Or is that taken into account within the stretch allowance? I'm thinking of people who copper slip wheel bolts, torque them up and then wonder why they walk themselves back out.
Nice one 👍👌
Thank you
Why do you use the blue marine grease instead of the red?
I love lamp
Some people hate putting ring and gaps in piston pin area, especially if there's not much side wall materijal .🤷♂️
What if the red sharpie reacts with the gasket sealer and degrades it 😜 jokin
Maxima assembly grease is the red tub. Maxima waterproof grease is the blue tub.
I was wondering why he used two different greases?
Maaate, I was using C U Next Tues back in the 70's, any dissagreement's I walked away with !!
The Cybertruck has a flat front end combined with a sharp angled point leading up toward the windscreen.
If it hits a pedestrian they are less likely to go over the bonnet and more likely to be pushed away or go underneath.
This would fail UK and EU regulations.
Buy Karl tickets to a stand up show for xmas. make him go on his own 😂
"I'm very important. I have many leather-bound books and my apartment smells of rich mahogany."
what brand is the T bar, i need one in my life, beats the shit out of a speed brace.
Snap on mate!
"You woke the bears! Why would you do that?"
Ahhh you measured in 0.001" music to my ears😆
This is like a petrol heads AMSR, rather soothing.
Anchorman line "60% of the time, it works every time..."
I'm surprised Carl is allowed into the build room with that beard, get him a face net 🤣
😂😂
A cliffhanger again. Right mounting lube ,right thickness of the sealer in the right place. Right amount of torq to turn the engine with the right sound.
What can i say apart from "master class"
I have many leather bound books and my apartment smells of rich mahogany!