Thanks for the excellent, quick video! Great compact info! I think those oil pump ball-access threads are intentionally tough (mine are anyway), maybe as a safety precaution since losing the cup-bolts into the sprockets would be catastrophic. Thanks for the great detail. Hope the new pump did the trick! Would love to hear the follow-up! Thanks!
I had one of those new steel sump filters on mine. Steel flange, steel mesh, with copper washers spot welded in place. The copper washers came adrift. The pump was full of copper fragments but luckily didn't demolish the engine, just screwed up my weekend
Close call. I’ve fitted an inline canister oil filter on this one, not ideal to filter after the pump but will stop bits from recirculating through the system.
Thanks. I just cranked my Daytona up after it had sat for a couple of weeks while I redid the electrics. Huge amount of blue smoke erupted so pretty sure it was wet sumped. The pump is pumping well and the oil pressure light goes out after the first kick.
Draining down is something to be prepared for if they've stood a while. A bit different to actual wet sumping like has been happening here, as it happens while engine is running
In fact, there's worse news - the plunger that's damaged is not the scavenge side, it's the one that supplies the crank. The bigger one is the scavenge.
The oil pressure on this one has always been problematic, I'm led to believe that a previous owner laid the bike up due to some issues over 30 years ago. TBH I've been putting off a bottom end strip for a while but it's on the cards in the future. Thanks.
@@bodganeering The good news about these engines is that you can buy just about everything you need off the shelf and, in my experience, once you've built it properly, as long as you keep the oil clean, it will go on forever (I fitted a paper oil filter conversion 20 years ago, it's much more effective than the original mesh strainer). If you want a good parts supplier, I use FD motorcycles at Gt Dunmow - as well as stocking most parts for the T140, they also have full engineering facilities.
@@rickconstant6106 funnily enough I've worked in Gt Dunmow a couple of times, never been to FD though. Funnily enough I've just fitted the filter conversion to this one, as the frame is non-standard I didn't bother to film it but I have a stock 1977 Bonnie I will also be converting. I prefer the pre-unit design as it's just easier to work on the engine with no pesky gearbox to strip down. Thanks.
My external oil filter was full, and I mean FULL, of what remained of the timing side main bearing cage. Full sludge trap and up rebuild followed shortly after seeing it!
As this is not a standard frame there’s not even a gauze filter on the oil tank, only the really crappy one in the sump. Last oil change I didn’t see anything untoward and have since fitted an inline paper canister filter on the return line. I’ll give it a couple of hundred miles and dissect the filter for a close look. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the excellent, quick video! Great compact info! I think those oil pump ball-access threads are intentionally tough (mine are anyway), maybe as a safety precaution since losing the cup-bolts into the sprockets would be catastrophic. Thanks for the great detail. Hope the new pump did the trick! Would love to hear the follow-up! Thanks!
It's better but still not right, looks like I will need to inspect and clean the sludge trap.
Thanks for watching.
I had one of those new steel sump filters on mine. Steel flange, steel mesh, with copper washers spot welded in place. The copper washers came adrift. The pump was full of copper fragments but luckily didn't demolish the engine, just screwed up my weekend
Close call. I’ve fitted an inline canister oil filter on this one, not ideal to filter after the pump but will stop bits from recirculating through the system.
@@bodganeering Had one on at the time. I've since taken to restoring original sump filters rather than buy pattern.
Far from boring, exactly what I needed to know.
Thanks. I just cranked my Daytona up after it had sat for a couple of weeks while I redid the electrics. Huge amount of blue smoke erupted so pretty sure it was wet sumped. The pump is pumping well and the oil pressure light goes out after the first kick.
Draining down is something to be prepared for if they've stood a while. A bit different to actual wet sumping like has been happening here, as it happens while engine is running
In fact, there's worse news - the plunger that's damaged is not the scavenge side, it's the one that supplies the crank. The bigger one is the scavenge.
The bits of swarf that caused the damage to the plunger must have been drawn up from the sump, so that's a bit worrying.
The oil pressure on this one has always been problematic, I'm led to believe that a previous owner laid the bike up due to some issues over 30 years ago.
TBH I've been putting off a bottom end strip for a while but it's on the cards in the future.
Thanks.
@@bodganeering The good news about these engines is that you can buy just about everything you need off the shelf and, in my experience, once you've built it properly, as long as you keep the oil clean, it will go on forever (I fitted a paper oil filter conversion 20 years ago, it's much more effective than the original mesh strainer). If you want a good parts supplier, I use FD motorcycles at Gt Dunmow - as well as stocking most parts for the T140, they also have full engineering facilities.
@@rickconstant6106 funnily enough I've worked in Gt Dunmow a couple of times, never been to FD though.
Funnily enough I've just fitted the filter conversion to this one, as the frame is non-standard I didn't bother to film it but I have a stock 1977 Bonnie I will also be converting.
I prefer the pre-unit design as it's just easier to work on the engine with no pesky gearbox to strip down.
Thanks.
My external oil filter was full, and I mean FULL, of what remained of the timing side main bearing cage. Full sludge trap and up rebuild followed shortly after seeing it!
Try a block of wood rather than a chisel to take of the timing cover. Beautiful machine.
It was a piece of Delrin that I used. Last thing I want to do is damage a case as they aren’t cheap.
Thanks for watching.
did you replace the timing side oil seal while you were there? thats a common one.
I did, eventually.
My god, what happened to that scavenge piston! They spend their lives floating in hot oil …. did you check the oil filter for bits of engine?
As this is not a standard frame there’s not even a gauze filter on the oil tank, only the really crappy one in the sump.
Last oil change I didn’t see anything untoward and have since fitted an inline paper canister filter on the return line. I’ll give it a couple of hundred miles and dissect the filter for a close look.
Thanks for watching.
A* groovy from liverpool