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If you mean the inner spacers that sit outside the bearings? That wasn't a hard hit to get them in, just a tap to ensure they're seated.

@@bodganeering Yes those ones but you are still transferring the shock load through the balls. Otherwise good vid and helpful.

Thank you.

I think I got that one from a local horse riding place but plenty available on Amazon, eBay etc.

@@bodganeeringcheers ,I will have a try with the horse riding places.the ones on Amazon and eBay have got tubes and stuff.i really enjoy you’re videos it shows it like it is ,so I will be doing my first oil change on my triumph. I’m 71 in August and a bit wobbly after 2 mini strokes,I part exchanged my 1200 Harley sportster for it as the sportster was very heavy up top. It was a 2005 xl1200r so a rubber mounted one,the triumph by comparison is so light weight. I’ve still got the shovelhead bobber but the weight feels lower down.but not much good for flipping around the country lanes. It’s shit getting old.i now see why Elvis left the building.👍🇬🇧

@jamesfleming5875 I wouldn’t call Triumphs light, but still lighter than a Sportster… 🤣 Getting old really suck balls. Thanks.

@@bodganeering I went to my local farm supply store,got 4 of them for 84 pence each.a bargain and it all went of well thanks to you’re videos.👍

@@jamesfleming5875 to coin a phrase, winner winner chicken dinner. Happy it helped mate, stay rubber side down.

Not a filter as such just a bellmouth inlet.

I think Myford and Boxford are in the same league for smaller lathes, the VFD and three phase motor on the Myford has been a game changer, gives a lot more control. Thank you.

Thanks. Engineering in the loosest sense… 😂

I'm looking to sell my FJ12 and get a reliant trike. As I'm sick of falling off. Haven't got any more shoulders to bust up 😅

@savinggracechurch4112 I know your pain. 😂

I did on that for some unknown reason. Didn’t even realise until I edited the video.

No need to open up the bore as it was already out to 38mm.

Off the top of my head, 2x20mm mild steel flat bar with a 90 degree bend and two mounting slots cut into it to allow for adjustment. I used the original out cover mounting holes and made two rods that are threaded at one end to go into the holes and can clamp the bar into place and they're tapped at the other end to accept a couple of shorter bolts to hold the cover in place. The block is just a piece of 12mm nylon held in place with a countersunk nut and bolt. Nothing fancy just a rough bodge to get me out of a bind that I've never got round to fully fixing. I think I got the idea from progressiveclassicproducts.co.uk/engines.html

Got it, thanks very much. I don't have the machines at your disposal but I do have the original bolts and a tap and die set. What could go wrong! Cheers

When I built the engine form a box of bits it was during the unknown virus of an unknown origin and it was proving difficult to get parts in a reasonable time frame so I made up the tensioner to get me going, it's just stayed ever since.

Mine is close to its limit so I might do the same, quieter too.

I managed to do it without removing the basket, I'm lazy...

Haha, your laziness looks like hard work!

If you go to around 12:30 on the video I quickly glance over checking the oil level.

That happened on my Suzuki GS, ended up having to source another front wheel. The previous owner had done thousands of miles on warped discs and I think the vibrations had caused the bearings to move in their housings.

That’s the manual gear selector. Twisty thumb bit to change down and button to change up.

Thanks for the tips. Annoyingly I’m quite restricted for space and the dining table isn’t an acceptable solution in my wife’s eyes… 😂

I'm not quite there yet... LOL

I’m not 100% TBH as they came with the trike. At a guess mini wheels.

I can't remember what size socket I used to drive the bearings in with, a pretty big one. But you can also use a brass drift as I did on the second one. As for the dust covers, I fitted them on one side as they helped space out the bearing in its housing, I know some people don't bother with them. I'd say that's your call.

There's many ways to skin a cat, the draw it out with a threaded bar is just one. If you look at the Triumph workshop manual it recommends driving the bushes out using their tool, part number 97-1527, more commonly known as the 'knocking the crap out of it' method. Using the correct size tool ensures you apply pressure to the outside of the bush, which is slightly shorter than the internal tube, which doesn't damage the rubber compound.

I'll be honest, not great. I've already killed one and I'm being very careful with my last one. I'm looking into either getting some Tufnol gears made, as original, or even a toothed belt configuration. As usual life is throwing too much at me at the moment for me to get my head into sorting it out.

@@bodganeering im in the process of making brass gears,ty for your reply

I'm a bit old fashioned when it comes to lights and I do like the glow you get from an incandescent lamp and the soft on/off. But I do agree that these LED units are a lot tidier. Thanks.

It’s a generic respirator with the appropriate filters for spray paints. Ideally should be airfed for 2K paint but I don’t have a good enough compressor. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply all the best Garry

When originally designed these carbs never had chokes, they have what’s called a tickler that allows you excess fuel to be pumped into the intake for cold starting. If your bike is running fine with the current set up I’d leave it as it is.

It's Papa Lazarou who is one of the characters from The League Of Gentlemen.

@@bodganeering never watched it lol

You do need to get the miles in to check for leaks… 😂

​@@bodganeeringexactly my thinking

Thanks. Water transfer isn't my idea but it does a decent enough job, it does leave an edge so not something I would do on a main panel.

You can get kits that take the oil pressure feed from the oil pressure switch fixing on the bottom right of the engine, this would give you a better picture of the pressure within your engine rather than the return to the tank. Your crank bearings are the main ones to keep and eye on. A lot of people tend to stay away from pressure gauges now as a fix gauge as you'll spend more time looking at it and getting paranoid when sat at the lights on a hot day and the pressure falls through the floor. A test gauge fitted temporarily for checking your pressures from cold should be enough for piece of mind.

@@bodganeering OK wow. I am learning something new every day about this bike. I've seen others post videos showing different modifications. One such video shows a gauge cluster with a high beam, a neutral beam, and an oil pressure light. I wondered about the source of the oil pressure light. I've only had the bike for one week now. Cleaning up the wiring will be one of my first jobs. She came to me with only a speedometer, no turn signals, just a horn button, and what I think is a high beam switch. I'll be looking to get a battery in the next couple of days to see what I do have and what works. Mostly I'm trying to learn all I can and avoid throwing money away on spare parts. Thank you

@briangibbs518 sounds like fun. These bikes are a love hate relationship, also a massive money pit. But as soon as you crack that throttle open, then you know… Advice is always free mate, enjoy the journey.

@@bodganeering Thanks it is a labour of love. Had Yamaha's and Harleys But always wanted a Triumph. This came up at an ok price and had to have it. Young man started a Cafe project but with a young wife and kids on the way. Well, we all know the rest of the story. He did do some good work. Took it to the right shops to get work done. So ya she lives to drain another bank account. Thanks again. Ride safe.

EBay retailer selling LF Harris spares.

@@bodganeering It's my next task as they are shot (it seems we have suffered identical faults overall but you are 12 months ahead of me lol) And the 3D printed driver was that an ebay purchase?

@@simonmarsden66 I got that tool around eight years ago and I can't seem to find one online now, if you're handy with CAD and have access to a printer I could give you some dimensions. I might even have a go at making one on the lathe.

@@bodganeering I'm not but I could bodge something up for the task no doubt

@@simonmarsden66 I've found a part number for the one I use, UNIOR 1702 34mm. I'd double check your fork leg size but it will be around 34mm.

Not quite, I was RAOC/RLC Vehicle Specialist and qualified as a Warrior DMI, spent a lot of time teaching at the School of Logistics and Bovington.

@@bodganeering I was REME

Do you know my mate "Beef"?

@@simonmarsden66 Stef?

@@simonmarsden66 I can think of many responses for this but I think the algorithm would block me... 🤣

Just a generic carb cleaner from a well known internet auction site.

If the carb has a tickler then no need for a choke. But this also depends on how easy the bike starts when cold. I would leave the choke fitted and see how it goes.

Yeah there is a tickler on the old monobloc carb the bike starts easier with out tickling and no choke. Thanks for the quick reply

Glad it helped.

They’re not much better now… 😂 Thanks.

The brake MC is from a 750 street triple. Thanks.

Needles fine mate.

Oh and thanks for the vid as always :)

Is it a smooth tight or notchy tight? Double check your cable routing for tight bends etc

@@bodganeering cable is free I oiled it earlier and no resistance. I'll take it out tomorrow see what it's like on the road

That was a short ride no clutch at all, back to basics, lets start afresh

Hopefully a simple fix.

Many thanks for your subscription, it is really appreciated. Always happy to help. I’d be interested to hear more about your bikes, I do like non-standard bikes and people different takes on style etc. The syringe of oil won’t break the bank, you should be ok as long as you get oil flow back into the tank. We all have to start somewhere, we all learn by our mistakes and I’m still learning.

Was watching this video because after a successful first ride I went to go for a ride the next morning and the clutch was stuck. I have tried rocking the bike in gear with clutch handle depressed and left it overnight with a zip tie on the clutch handle, but to no effect. Guessing I am going to need to order new discs and springs etc. Do you have any suggestions on which discs to purchase or whether I should try other options before ordering parts? It's a 1977 T140v. Really appreciate it!

@MadTinkerman before ordering parts would be best to do some fault finding first. Take the clutch adjuster cover off the primary, is the adjuster screw and locknut still in position? Do the plates move when you operate the clutch, you might need a torch to see it through the inspection hole. Let’s not unload the parts canon yet… 😂

@@bodganeering Hi, well I took the inspection cover off and see that the adjustment screw has been bottoming out on the inspection cover! Bits of aluminum from the cover are present so I think I had better take the primary cover off and see what the heck is going on inside there... Any idea what would cause the adjustment screw to hit the inspection cover? I haven't adjusted it yet, but the adjustment screw and nut don't appear to be loose.

@@bodganeering Hi, well I took the clutch adjust cover off and have found that the adjusting screw has been bottoming out on the inspection cover with little bits of aluminum as evidence. I think I had better take the primary cover off and see what the heck is going on in there... The adjuster screw and nut don't appear to be loose but I haven't attempted to adjust them yet. Any idea what might cause this? The adjuster screw and top plate do move with the clutch handle depressed.

@MadTinkerman clutch basket might be coming loose. There’s a nut that holds the whole assembly in place. As you said, primary off and take a look.