Ballistol vs Breakfree CLP EXTREME Corrosion & Gunpowder Burn Test - FateofDestinee
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This video, I'm going to confront that controversial topic within the gun community: Which cleaner is better? I'm pitting Ballistol vs. Breakfree CLP. I don't have any bias with either product because I haven't used them before, so I've devised a couple of simple tests to help me compare. Oh, and I'm going to set something on fire (yay burning stuff!), so this should be pretty fun. Here's my disclaimer: 1) I don't think I'm an expert, nor do I think I'm giving a complete comparison on every point between these two products, I'm only choosing two of the elements I consider when I'm looking at a cleaner lubricant protectant for my firearms 2) Please don't try this at home! I'm only doing these things for the sake of comparison. Okay! Let's get started. I'm going to use these steel hinges to simulate the steel of a firearm (because I don't want to intentionally put my guns through this kind of wear haha). First, I'm going to corrode them to see how well the Ballistol and Breakfree CLP remove rust. I found this neat solution off of the internet consisting of hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and sea salt that corrodes metal in no time flat. I'm going to spray both sides of one hinge with Ballistol, and perform the same treatment to a second hinge using Breakfree CLP. Then, I'll take these two hinges and a third, untreated (control) hinge and place all three in my corrosion solution to see how the metal rusts. After only a couple minutes, the hinges have developed rust in varying degrees. Our control is clearly more rusted than the other two hinges. Which do you think did a better job of preventing corrosion - the Ballistol or the Breakfree CLP? My next test is the fun one: burning gunpowder! (Again, please do not try this at home.) I'm taking two more steel hinges and covering them with some gun powder. I light the powder on both to produce torching and gun powder residue on both hinges. Then I'm going to spray down each hinge with a different product and get to scrubbing to see how effectively they remove the powder residue. After the first pass with each product, I was able to noticeably remove residue from both hinges. I applied the Ballistol and CLP to their respective hinges one more time to see if I couldn't get up any more residue. In side-by-side comparison, it seems to be that the Breakfree CLP did a more thorough job of cleaning up that gunpowder residue from the hinge. What do you think? Buy Exclusive FoD Art Here: bit.ly/FODPICS PASSWORD: Destinee
You needed to test these articles on simple, ungalvanized mild steel. There may have been some galvanization left of those hinges - giving you a false result.
+Dan Elliott Exactly what I was thinking after that first test.She should be using the cut offs from rifle barrels,or the same exact steel.Like 4140,4150.
the three should have been in individual tins of the same solution. Placing all 3 in the same tin allows all 3 to be exposed to both products in your test.
Get real if you think it made that big of a difference run your own test. Peroxide, vinegar and sea salt are not going to transfer the key ingredients from one to the other. You would need a solvent that is non-polar to the extreme that could dissolve the non-polar oils and such from those products. Most petroleum products are not at all polar. The Peroxide and the Vinegar are are mostly water which is very polar. You guys are as bad as Corvette owners that wont let their wives park their car in the same garage as the Vette during winter out of fear that road salt will magically travel across the floor or in the air and attack their car. Never mind Corvettes are mostly fiberglass for the body! LOL If they are so frail and fragile that salt from the body of the wife's daily driver parked in the same garage is too much to handle than the car is a failure. We are talking in solution for 60 seconds. If this solution is able to wash that much off how would it attach itself to the other part in sufficient amounts to invalidate the results? Would it have been better to put the solution in a spray bottle and suspend the parts from string for the testing? Yes sure but to say her results are completely with out merit is just silly!
I've used CLP in the army and ever since. Love it! I don' t like the stuff in the aerosol can though. I prefer the plain liquid stuff.
Great video.....I mix 70% ballistol with 30% Kroil penetrating oil in a spray bottle. Spray on and brush or wipe off. For barrels, I use Bore Tech Eliminator with patches and nylon brushes. Then my ballistol Kroil mix with a bronze brush. Final step is a few patches of Sweet's on a plastic jag to check for copper fouling. Usually the Sweet's patches will indicate a clean bore. If I'm satisfied, I push a few patches with oil through the barrel. Sounds like a lot of work, but there's something satisfying about knowing your handguns are clean.
@pjansen2010 i agree the Balsitol beats it in the all around picture, well it beats them all, but the CLP impressed me. Balistol os not a harsh chem, so it will not mess up delicate wood areas of the gun and it leaves a smooth silky film behind witch makes gun run smoother and makes it more reliable,
I love the fun comparison. My choice is Ballistol, simply because it dosent absorb thru the skin and damage your liver or central nervous system like the other solvents. I can clean all day long and never have to worry about poisoning myself or family!
I think I'll be sticking with CLP for a while, yet.
Great video, very informative, thanks!
@empxd40 Aww :/ But thanks for watching. I'm glad you enjoyed my spin on this. :]
Great test. First time I've seen a test with gunpowder. Makes sense considering that is normally what you are cleaning off the weapons, for the most part.
The super-heated gasses from the burned powder are going through the barrel, too, which means that the powder residues are also getting into the barrel.
Firearms Barrels are metallurgical different form your test medium, So much so that when Japans "Nissan Nippon" corporation took over the production of firearms barrels from the US firms of Winchester and others they were mandated to Emboss the words "Special Steel" on all the components they produced. not to mention there is a difference between smokeless powder and "Gunpowder" Smokeless powder is designed to burn at a pressure curve. Open burning as in the test will leave abnormal residue. Even so the control an other test mediums should be placed in separate containers so that they do not interact or emulsify in the water of the test group as a whole. That being said 3 separate containers of Barrel cross sections under the same test would have yielded more relevant results.
She was not testing the materials she was testing the lubricants ability to form a barrier to the metal and and prevent the oxidation process. It would not matter if she used a clean brake rotor for the test since she is testing the lubricants not the material! Hydrogen Peroxide is an oxidizer and vinegar is a mild acid. Exactly in what way would smokeless powder make a difference chemically or mechanically in this test? If I burn a person house down with Kerosene instead of gasoline is the outcome different by a statistically significant amount? On top of that people use the word gunpowder generically. Modern "Gun Powder" that people buy for various "Black Powder" uses has nothing in common with ancient "gunpowder" they are basically all made with modern chemistry and have more in common with smokeless powder then they do ancient real gunpowder! Chemistry and Science not heresy and supposition. Do your own test and show us the results that invalidate her testing methodology!
The best Gun Solvent I ever used on guns is a solvent called Strike Hold. It blows away CLP, Ballistol, or Hoppes#9. The only place I can find it though is on Amazon. The reviews on it back up what I’m saying!
@mattdeal09 I actually spent over an hour sanding the chrome off each hinge equally. But this was just a "for fun" comparison of the two products, not a thorough evaluation. No worries, when I actually use gun cleaning/oiling products, I use a combination of copper brushes and cotton patches. Although, I did just pick up a new brass brush yesterday... looking forward to seeing how effective that will be. ;] Thanks for taking the time to give me your feedback :D
I prefer Balistol. Wonderful as a lube, and effective as a cleaner. Can be mixed with water for corrosive ammo or black powder. Stays "wet" longer for storage and no harsh chemicals to worry about. It will condition metals so after a few uses it cleans even better. No worries about plastics or wood, and in fact is beneficial to wood.
I've seen our boys use CLP in combat in Afghanistan on weapons to keep them firing. That's good enough for me.
The germans used ballistol jn the trenches of WW1 to the seas of WW2
I seen them use a toothbrush to clean floors too. Just joking around, I get what your saying.
@@kobeculpitt114 how did they fare in WW2?
The CLP used by the military is not the same as what is sold to consumers.
@@UKSportsFan too soon
Probably been said before but here's my $0.02. A) the hindges are low carbon steel not high carbon like a barrel B) it looks like you used "black powder" instead of modern gun powder. The stain on the clp one reminds me of the discoloration you get when you heat low carbon steel to add carbon to it to slightly strengthen it. If Black powder was used it has special solvents that have to be used to break it down during the cleaning process. When I was in the Army, we used CLP only to clean our rifles so I have a love/hate with CLP.
She is testing the lubricant not the steel alloy. Even if it was modern gunpowder and not technicly smokless powder it would not matter. Modern gunpowder like fffg has almost nothing in common with ancient black powder and it basically a modern replacement for black powder. Everything we use today is some form of Gunpwder it is just most of us use smokeless gunpowder's. Shaun what special solvents where they using back when true black powder was being used. I am dying to hear what super solvent the British and Colonist where using or the North and South during the American Civil War! They where lubing their guns with lard for crying out load!
great test!! CLP did very good, the thing with balistol is its known that it dosent dry up it stays moist for a long time. i think differently about CLP now thanks for this.
@SlideLock1 Thank you, kindly. I'm glad you like it :D
@Megzamani I didn't realize so many would take my little "just for fun" comparison so seriously :D It's neat to see the ideas it has generated with other people though... if I wanted, I could do a whole series just on the ideas people have given through comments like yours. Thanks for the recommendations! I have to try to narrow all the suggestions down for the next vidja haha
It's a non conclusive test as the chemical solution that the hinges were soaked in has a cleaning effect as to remove the oil from the surface.
well thanks young lady its you whose to blame! Me and my buddy Florida Fred tried to re enact yer video. Except when we lit the hinge on far with the gun powder things got out of hand. Fred got some on his hair which immediately burst into flame and he went running down the street screaming like a woman. I of course ran after fred but as he is 120 # and i'm about 350, i wasnt closing fast at all. Refusing to drop the triple cheeseburger in my hand didn't do none for my speed either. Bein how we's both on probation for a similar incident in Tennesee, it made me a bit scared to see cops nearby, but thinking fast i screamed at them "WE ARE JUST REENACTING GAME OF THRONES! DONT WORRY GUYS I GOT THIS!" As we ran away to their astonished stares Fred rounded the corner and jumped in a deep causeway putting out the far! Amazingly Fred's face was fine! (his hair is only an inch thick). We both breathed a relieved "WHEW" just as the cops pulled up after all! As they were handcuffing me, Fred was eaten by a large 12 foot gator. So now i'm doing time and fred sleeps with the fishes (more like gators really).
Can't say she did'nt warn you!!
How is it her fault if you got hurt trying to replicate her testing? Did she make you do at gun point? Get real! Be responsible for your own actions.
Same thing happened to me. That is why I now use Ballistol instead of cheeseburgers.
@dergible That sounds like a ton of fun... Thanks for checking out the vidja. I'm glad you like it. Take care.
I would go with the CLP.
Ummm....ballistol dissolves zinc. You used zinc plated hinges correct? It also looks like you sanded the middle ballistol plate harder where you see the most corrosion.
Try slip 2000 EWL and Eezox. Both will prevent rust longer than the CLP and Ballistol.
I really like Ballistol for cleaning and lube. Thanks to Hickok45 in 2009 for turning me on to it. I`ve never seen one flake of rust! Thanks for your experiment.
I used CLP during my 20 year service with the Army and recently switched to Ballistol and I love it. Ballistol is a better product.
Damn you had me so drawn into your experiment, i was giddy with excitement on CLP VS Ballistol. Once all 3 samples were dipped and left in the same water solution, i realized i was wasting my time and ill just listen to hicock.
So you didn't like that they were all dip in the same water??
Not sure why the same water would throw you off??? Different pans of water would create a variable. The same pan of water provides a consistent medium.
I happened to work with Haz Mat Chems, and cross contamination is unacceptable.
In this test of course, for the simple minded people, it does not matter. But to someone like me, You will not get a accurate test using this videos method.
Use the same brand pans, and same water source, BUT different pan for each chemical. Its a basic in chemistry.
Exactly! Not sure exactly what was proven here. . .
Your a nasty old coot alright
Looks like 20x clp is being used per application based on how much more comes out with each press of the button
Neat test...you should try Frog Lube vs Fire Clean
I TRIED IT CHANGED BY VOICE MADE IT MUCH DEEPER!!! LOL
Very good job, no matter what others may say, though I agree gun barrels aren't treated the same as those hinges. It does, though, show a good side-by-side comparison. The thing I don't like about Ballistol is that it's a two-in-one product. It's always best to get a product that does one thing very well, like the Break Free.
CLP is what I use
Only thing i would say is what happens when you let them sit and absorb the products? How long did they sit? This is a cool idea....
The Ballistol works the best after multiple applications over time..
So when you clean your weapon you do not clean off the surface you just keep applying more oil to it with out ever wiping off excess and the like? By what process does Ballistol build? It is not a varnish it does not build with each layer. Once the surface is saturated and the excess has ran off no more oil can wet the metal. Metal is not a sponge that just keep soaking up solvents and oils. Even a sponge has a limit to what it can absorb and once that limit is reached that is it. That is why we have to wring out towels and sponges once they have reached their limit! Can you point to any research that contradicts what I am saying? When have you ever applied an oil with a rag and seen a film build and build and build. If that happened in real life you would have an issue with a .650 muzzle becoming larger and larger in diameter as oil was applied. If I fill a mold with varnish or polyurethane and epoxy and back it in the oven at some point I can remove it from the mold and it will hold it's shape. If I put oil in a mold and back it in the oven if I try to remove the oil from the mold it will not hold it's shape. Use some common sense only Infomercials for things like engine additives claim things soak into the metal! LOL
buckaroobonsi555
It could be more like a cast iron frying pan... you need to season it before using it. If you don't, it seems everything sticks to it but once it's seasoned, it acts kind of non-stick like... similarly, I wonder if having a thin film of Ballistol or any CLP and then heating it by firing rounds through it, if the barrel will get a bit seasoned like the cast iron pan. That might explain heltonjkv96's experience... but if so, that may not be unique to Ballistol but more of a function of regular use and a heating of the barrel with the oil in it through that use.
It seems to me that the Break Free CLP can sprays with more velocity, causing it to dispense more product as well as aerating it to create a foaming effect. I would say that using a little more Ballistol and letting it sit longer would have comparable results to the Break Free CLP. I usually individually apply the cleaning solution to each part of my firearms that needs to be cleaned. Once they are all saturated, I give them at least 3 minutes to sit, then go back and scrub them down in the same order that I applied the cleaning solution to them. It might just be my OCD kicking in at that point but, Break Free CLP and Ballistol have worked equally as well for me using that method.
When the military stops using CLP I'll switch to whatever they have determined to be better.
+MrTdw1954 There's a pretty good chance the CLP you're buying isn't the same as the CLP the military uses. Sold in stores at 20% solvent, the military is using 40% solvent. And btw, just because the military is using something doesn't mean it's the best. The military also loves saving money.
Get a spray can of Balistol and use it to clean and lubricate some other non carry gun. It does have an unusual smell so don't take a drag of it !
Shady Brady. and get commissions in generals' pockets :)))
thats what they said about the m16 too
Former Army medic here, "good decisions & the military" that's a good joke.
Mil-Comm is the best lubricant and protectant. I use Ballistol to spray on my handguns only, then use Hoppes #9 in the bore. All of my rifles get Hoppes #9 in the bore, and Mil-Comm as a lube and wipe down for a protectant.
Really , you tanked it all together ? What a fail !!!!
I've been using Ballistol for years and would have been a lifelong customer except for their customer service. Dave Brown (co-owner of Ballistol) would not send me a trigger top for the liquid bottle. Even blamed me for buying thru a distributor (Midway) to save a few bucks and not thru their website. He would rather argue about the fault of the customer for 15 minutes than send a trigger that I got with my first purchase from the website. Don't understand his business logic. I expect better customer service - not an argumentative owner.
He is not the owner of ballistol, he is a franchisee there is a big difference here. Franchisee's usually fuck it up for everyone.
I like Break Free
I'd like to know how those two products stand up to carburetor cleaner, which you can buy almost anywhere for next to nothing.
@FirecloudNine Thank you, my friend. I'm glad you enjoyed my little "for fun" comparison. Thanks for your input ;] I alsway love your comments.
OK, it took me 3 days to watch the whole video because of my crazy schedule but well worth it. Great job of giving each product a fair shake. I think most of these products work pretty good, it then comes down to preference and maybe price. lol. Thanks for taking the time to do this video. : )
LOL... We used to use carb cleaner to get the hard to remove carbon off of our M16's, M4's and SAW's when I was in the Army. We would then follow up with CLP and wipe it down good so there was no excess and never had a problem.
I've found that ballistol is a better general purpose cleaner, okay corrosion preventative, disappointing lubricant. CLP was a decent compromise all around, better at L than ballistol. I still use both though. Ballistol is my general shop project cleaner and CLP for the field.
@thedudecarrying My pleasure. Glad you liked the comparison :]
Des, try this test again, but with a hinge that has had several applications of Ballistol. spray it on, let soak and wipe it off several times. then burn it and try cleaning it. I bet you get vastly different results. the magic of Ballistol is that it coats the metal over time and builds up like teflon.
@g3seifert Why thankya. I do try to do things differently... glad you liked my take on it.
They're both a fair overall deal. I use them both. When it comes to cleaning though, its all about using the right thing for the job, and lots of elbow grease. For general cleaning though this stuff works fine. I only clean my guns to super levels every 6 months or so.
Ballistol as a cleaner or light lube for long term storage only. Fire Clean or RandCLP for running the gun and operating in the field. It seems like they both melt carbon away. Nothing wrong with CLP, but after a couple of decades using toxic cleaners, I've been using 'greener' nontoxic products, which CLP is not.
Thanks for sharing your opinions on gun cleaners with us, and thanks for watching ^_^
@TheMinisterofDefence As always, thanks so much for checking out my vid and giving me your perspective. I really do appreciate it.
Sorta good idea for testing, but you should have used Blued Chrome Steel (what gun barrels are made from) and performed a cleaning like you were cleaning a barrel (brass/bronze brush, then patches). If you wanted to redo the test to mimic a firearm, check around for a barrel that's been changed, cut it so you have the same composition of metal and do the test again. Perhaps even get some rounds fired through the barrel before it's changed for an accurate powder burn. Again good idea, but missing too many conditions to give accurate results.
I've been using CLP on my firearms. One of the things I like about CLP is that after multiple applications through routine maintenance, it seems like my firearms are easier to clean, as fouling sticks to them less and less. I'm sure Ballistol does a handy job as well, but my only experience is with CLP.
The difference between the Ballistol and the CLP is 115 years of materials technology. Ballistol has been around since the turn of the last century. Germany has been using it as their official military gun lube since before they were an actually country.
Looks like I'll use clp or hoppes #9 for serious cleaning, and ballistol for quick wipe down and storage
@12gn12 I'm a fan of Hoppe's. It has worked for me up to this point :] But then again, I'm pretty accepting of a cleaner, so long as by the end of the day, my guns are clean haha Yeah, I believe Ballistol is more common in Europe. You may just have to order it online :/ Thanks for your info, and thanks for watching.
Oh, and sorry. I was too busy rambling my opinions and forgot to thank you for taking the time to show a comparison of products for those of us that enjoy and appreciate the rest results. Thank you
Well Break free actually has teflon in it so it builds up over time to help protect the base metal but the best cleaner I have found is MPRO-7 it will even take off light surface rust and copper lead carbon you name it. The only bad thing is you have to make sure you lube your stuff back up really good after you use it because it strips everything off. But it doesn't stink or anything smells like water and it won't eat your hands.
you didn't leave the ballistol on long enough. You have to let it sit for awhile because the main mechanism of action is through invading the spaces between the grime and the metal, breaking down surface tension and letting the crud come away easily. The oleic acid also helps to dissolve copper traces and tombac. break free works better for a quick cleaning though, no doubt about it. ballistol works best when given time, even over night to do it's work.
@72cmcinc Thanks :] And yeah, I had fun. Thanks for watching!
Nice scientific review. You were objective and I especially like how you also had a control item so that I could compare it to the two test items. Your review is so much better than the usual opinion pieces that are usually found on TH-cam. I use CLP Break Free but was considering using Ballistol bit your review saved me some time. Thanks, keep up the good work.
wow... so much negative criticism... regardless of what others said... thanks. I found this informative.
I think the test concept was fine. As others have stated, maybe using non-galvanized so that your sanding won't affect the test and also separating the parts into separate corrosion bins would have been better. On that note, I was wondering if your corrosion bin could have "washed" the Ballistol or Break Free CLP off to some degree. One other tester used a salt water spray and left overnight. I think that was a more legit test as it left a film of salt water without the risk of washing off the protectant. I think the goal of the test was good in that you are using some metal and seeing if there is a relative difference between the results. Thus it doesn't have to be done on rifle steel. But, as mentioned, I think bathing the hinges in the corrosive solution might have been too aggressive in that it may not have allowed the chemicals to work in a way they would normally work, i.e. perhaps they got washed off to some degree.
As for the gun powder test, i think that was a good test. I'm not sure if you were able to control the amount of powder on each hinge and whether that would have affected your results. Off hand, I don't think it would... but... Either way, the idea of whether the BreakFree CLP or Ballistol would clean carbon residue better was good and I think the test stands regardless of the type of metal used since the focus was on whether one cleaned better than the other is a relative test. In addition, the behavior seems to mimic experience, i.e. I soak the barrel, wipe it out, then soak it again and repeat until it comes out clean.
Great comparison review! The CLP definitely did better for cleaning in this video, but the fact that Ballistol is non-toxic is what sells me on it. I can get it all over everything and use it indoors without worrying about inhaling toxic fumes.
Batch was contaminated by mixing all the hinges in the same pan of soup. Also, you should use hardened steel of the type used in firearms not soft metal door hinges.
Ballistol certainly has a unique odor to it. I'm not too picky about my gun cleaners. If it's easily accessible, and it gets the job done, I'm happy.
@MrMauriceObrien Thank you. I appreciate you saying that. I love Walmart, but I swear I can *never* leave without buying more than I intended lol Thanks for watching. I'm glad you liked it.
Very cool idea and test! I use break free just because it is the most accessible.
@TheMinisterofDefence your right, not to mention the variation of metals and coating ( chrome, melonite...ect). I am not positive, but solvents like these don't penetrate the metal like nickel boron which would give more protection than just a surface coat.
Thinking try using two different containers due cross contamination when soaking the hinges.
@3DCree That's a very subjective quality... I hear a lot of people hate the smell of Ballistol, but I like it. Kind of smells like... chocolate and black licorice. However, it is definitely more pungent than CLP (which I have no preference for or against its smell).
I stumbled upon a 50/50 mix of break free & hoppes#9 and noticed it removed more copper fouling from my barrels. After more years than I care to admit anymore the bores on my guns shoe no significant wear.
Why not try putting both products on the hinges before burning the black powder on them. Since most people I know who use Ballistol also use it as a lubricant it would be interesting to see if there was a difference in the combination of protection and cleaning.
@glock2026 Lol Thank you for the support :] I just thought it would be fun to do a couple preliminary tests to compare products before I tried them out.
@NeptuneBlueZ My pleasure. I'm glad you enjoyed it :] And thanks for watching!
I wonder does it matter if the metal is treated for gun fire like a hand gun barrel. Metal used to make hinges is plain zink coated.
@binyamj I've been using Hoppe's #9 and RemOil up to this point, but seeing as I had easy access to these two products and hadn't tried them... I decided that meant it was a good time to test them out against each other, you know? Thank you for watching my little spin on this comparison between the two products.
@tiwer1 Glad you liked it - thanks!
One thing to note; the zinc is a lot more prone to corrosion than say for instance a Glock barrel or a stainless steel barrel. It is a less noble metal that is used as a sacrificial metal to deal with corrosion caused by electrolysis on boats. I am not sure this is a good test of either CLP or Ballistol. Try it again with a super hard stainless.
@mrmezmureyz Thank you, kindly. I do spend a good deal of time for each, so I'm happy to hear you enjoy them. Thanks.
Use the CLP on the hinge you used the Ballistol and see if gets it cleaner...and vise versa.
I use them both, if you use ether one best to soak and let then sit for a hour...that seems to work best for me.
I honestly just carry all different kinds of cleaners and oils and use them for different purposes. But if I had to choose, I lean towards CLP.
@xtremearmor Thanks much :] I'm glad you enjoyed that. You know, X4CTO also recommended Weapon Shield to me. Guess I'll have to check it out ;] There really are a lot of options on the market to clean/oil your guns... but I've always been a fan of having options. Thanks for watching!
Up here in Oregon Ballistol seems harder to find. CLP works great I even use it for bicycle chain and multi- purpose oil, Ballistol I'm sure would work well also, especially since Hickok 45 uses it, giving it extra awesomeness power.
You need to let the Ballistol sit on the parts to break down the crud a lot lot longer for it to be really effective, it's not abrasive at all and takes a long time to clean stuff. Then you need to run a lot of patches over or through parts untill they're clean. Very slow process.
I forgot to ask how does the smell of Ballistol compare to the Breakfree smell? I kinda like the smell of Breakfree.
Breakfree all the way for me. Been using it for many years on all my firearms (including semi-auto shotguns) and never a single problem with rust or jamming.
The only why to truely test them side by side as weapon cleaners is to get two AR's, 24 mags and 720 rounds of ammo and head to the range. When finished with ammo, use Ballistol on one and Breakfree on the other. After one of the interesting times in Central America, I can attest to Breakfree cleaning up an AR without problems, after about 12 mags.
Ballistol removed roofing tar off my hands yesterday. Didn't have anything else so I gave it a shot and it worked!
@TheMinisterofDefence Yeah, this was not meant to be a comprehensive, definitive test, just one comparison (see notes for vid) I'm actually very pleased about the intelligent responses I have received similar to yours though :]
I use to used CLP in the Marines back in the 80's and have used it ever since. I thought about trying something else, but now I don't think I need to. Thanks, I think I'll stick with the CLP.
Good test! I presumed that they would both do a better job. I wonder how they compare to other cleaners? I have used G96 for years and do not hear anything about it. Some of my guns were my father's bought in the 40's and 50's. They still shine!
I would've used a brass brush of some sort to compare the products after the gunpowder test. After all, when cleaning a bore, a patch goes in first to soak it up, then it's brass time, and at the end you begin sending patches in again to remove the residue.
Also wondering why the products weren't compared on their rust-removal capabilities after being tested on the rust prevention department.
Anyways, thanks for the video and may you have a nice day!
Ballistol is NOT recommended for nickel plated or gold leafed firearms and I wouldn't use CLP for this either. This means that if you use these for long term storage they could eat the plating right off your gun. For my guns I use CLP to clean them and Lucas gun oil for lubricant. Plain mineral oil works for long term storage and it's less expensive than gun oil.
Gun shop owner suggested CLP for my Sig MXP... Haven’t looked back.
@MrTotez Cool! I use Hoppes #9, too! Didja see my gun cleaning vid before? I think it did a great job on that lovely Magnum. Thanks for watching ;]
Break Free CLP is what I have been using for years, same with many relatives and cleaning firearms is super easy.
I've done this in the field but a good gun grease has always worked better for me... especially in hot environments...oils run and don't stay where they need to be.
your hinges are hot dipped in zinc, galvinized. When the power burns it is hot enough to cause the pitting and discoloration. This does not happen with a gun, since they are not galvinized. Beyond that, great video. On the face of it, looks like Ballistol may protect a bit more while CLP is the more agrresive cleaner. People buy what they like. The bottom line is clean your gun, moisture and powder residue are not good for them.
Read the warning on Breakfree it' states it can damage your finish on your firearms! Generally use Rand CLP, FIREClean, and for rust prevention CorrosionX.
Great comparison. Personally I have never been a fan of the aerosol cleaners/lubes because I think it is too excessive. I stick with old Hopps #9 and Hopps elite lube or some Wilson Combat grease in some high friction guns. They more controlled and the smell is classic.