Jon, you are the reason I became really interested in woodworking. I was a hairdresser for 15 years, now a nurse for about 4 years. Your videos make woodworking so easy, so I began buying some tools and built some little projects. I realized it is Not so easy for a beginner! I made so many mistakes !!! I will stick to nursing for a living but on my spare time I will be enjoying building stuff after watching your videos!! Thanks for being a great teacher and sharing your tips and tricks! Hilda.
They say you learn something new every day. I've been doing millwork installations and we just finished a restaurant last week. I learned today that the thing I had been calling the window sill for 3 weeks, is actually the window stool. :-)
Good tips, Jon! I need to check that caulk out. I've been using a DAP caulk, but I'm seeing some cracks and splits in the crown moulding after just 3 years.
that is the same baseboard and molding the guy installing it in our kitchen. Thanks for posting so I can see how it all fits since next week is when it will be installed.
Nice video Jon. For generations things were done a certain way, and today not many were taught in the same manner so a lot of times the new way is accepted as being correct, maybe some are. It’s nice that you take your time and effort to show how things should be .
Thanks for the video Jon; it really makes me want to get back in the shop and start building. I am really looking forward to the build videos of the cabinets.
The thing I notice about his cuts is he eases into the board like a surgeon, pushes through and then slows way down as he exits. I tried this today on some cuts and it makes a huge difference. Also swapped out a 60tooth for a 80 tooth Diablo and wow.
New to the channel. Loads of information here. Love the end of the apron trick, never would have thought of it and it makes it look so much better. Thank you for sharing your skills. :)
One of the qualities that is really great about Big Stretch is that it is chemically friendly with mineral oil unlike silicone caulk. I found out about silicone caulk and mineral oil not co-habitating the hard way when we installed a teak kitchen counter. The contractor used silicone caulk and we treated the counter with mineral oil initially and regularly to maintain it. The silicone caulk shriveled up and looked terrible, lost all qualities for which you use it except some adherence. I had to remove it all which was a very difficult, tedious job. Neither the contractor nor the architects had ever heard of the problems with silicone and mineral oil. I researched many, many products until I found Big Stretch. I performed some experiments and found it got along just fine with mineral oil. The only problem is that it is water based. Getting it to dry and cure around the sink is an ongoing struggle we are still coping with. But, I hope anyone else thinking of using wood in a similar environment might benefit knowing this in advance. Great videos, by the way!
Any chance you'll be covering those built-ins on the channel? I am in the planning phase for some built-ins in my living room and would love to see your take on a project like that before solidifying my plans.
Great video and I really like how you laid out what products you are going to use. One question what type blade are you using to cut the moulding my saw has a rip blade I believe is that ok for moulding or should I go with something finer.
TVs get bigger every year, which is why building a surround cabinet is generally a bad idea. My last house had a big inset for a tv above the fireplace, yet too small for the tv, so I had to build a custom box with a tv mount that had a 2 foot arm to extend out far enough to hang the tv just beyond the inset wall.
Love to hear any ideas on how to avoid build up in the corner where the casing meets the baseboard. I always end up trying to dig out the excess with a 5-in-1.
One question for you. I am planning construction where I will place AC duplex outlets in the base trim. How do you go about accurately cutting these holes in the trim, after the power boxes are already installed in the base of the wall?
Could you please point me to dimensions of the casing, base, and shoe. Also can you please say what material was used for window stool? What are the chances big box shops carry the casing? Is that casing finger jointed pine? Thanks Jon. Great as usual.
Great work and attention to detail. I've found, however, the best place to spot a nail, after painting, is by placing it on the bead. Best to do that in a groove or flat area, so the filler can be sanded more easily. I note too, that putting bevels on the outsides of the cut of the caulking nozzle will more accurately put the caulk where it's needed, with less excess.
Great video and helps if one is using painted trim. How do you fill these gaps if one is going with a non-painted finish on the trim? I understand using filler between joints but how would you fill the gaps, say on the top of the base molding?
I have plain square moulding around all my doors windows and baseboards throughout my house and my question is would it be possible to refurbish them using a router to add a bit of design to it if so could you demonstrate that in a video
So I have a technical Q. Why do you shoot the nail in at the roundest part of the base boards? It becomes impossible then to hide the nails, and fill it to a perfect dome profile. My carpenter did the same and it’s impossible to make the profile round again, and it shows thru the paint as well.
On new or remodel construction, is there a rule of thumb when picking or designing trim? For example, in new construction, if there are high ceilings or a very spacious room it might look odd to have have general 3 1/2" baseboards. For aesthetic and balance of the room I would assume the width of the baseboard would have be a rough percentage of the room/home total square footage plus ceiling height. The same question would be applied to casing and crown. Should crown be the same width as baseboard? Does it not matter? Is there a general rule of thumb when deciding? Thanks
Jon, I wanted to ask , do you have any ideas how to make your own trim using reclaimed wood? I have limited tools, no lathe or router. Any suggestions what tools to use?
I have internal doors in my hallway which are standard width but a little too wide in total for standard width trim/casings. In addition one side is narrower than the other. The trims have been cut down to suit but it just doesn't look good. Should I rip all the trim for sides and top of doors to the same width? Can a casing be too narrow?
Shoe mould that is stained same color as the hardwood floor looks better. Plus, when you drag your Swiffer push broom across the floor you’ll jack up painted shoe mould as it brushes against it.
With molding I typically use adhesive in the back, and use store brand caulking in the crack. Still cracking occurs seasonally. Would switching to big stretch eliminate the need for adhesive in the back?
During his toy/blanket chest video, he mentions the spackle you suggest. (th-cam.com/video/7rt5RbExOgk/w-d-xo.html). I'm imagining he would do the same for interior trim work.
So after you smoothed out the caulk at the top of the baseboard...how do you ensure that caulk smear on the paint isn’t visible? I feel like you either have to come back and paint over it or use painters tape in the first place to avoid that. Any tips??
I have a question for molding a door. I have a door that I molded on the left and top of the door. I can't mold the right because the previous owner put a wall next to the door. (Where the molding is supposed to be.) The door is on the east side wall and the wall is facing south. Now I have a 1/4 of an inch gap. How can I mold that?
That’s a tough one... sounds like you’ll need to fill the gap with a wooden shim on the side of the molding. And then fill with caulk or joint compound.
Jon, you are the reason I became really interested in woodworking. I was a hairdresser for 15 years, now a nurse for about 4 years. Your videos make woodworking so easy, so I began buying some tools and built some little projects. I realized it is Not so easy for a beginner! I made so many mistakes !!! I will stick to nursing for a living but on my spare time I will be enjoying building stuff after watching your videos!! Thanks for being a great teacher and sharing your tips and tricks!
Hilda.
Jon, you're the King of mitres. I haven't seen anyone do them better than you. Perfect every time
Agreed!
there is lot of better than us..
always.
if not.. then you are like TRUMP. . Like a genius.
Probably not actually - but we get to watch the perfect ones :).
@@Lu-cho 🎉😮 🎉 que y yyrttu
They say you learn something new every day. I've been doing millwork installations and we just finished a restaurant last week. I learned today that the thing I had been calling the window sill for 3 weeks, is actually the window stool. :-)
Good tips, Jon! I need to check that caulk out. I've been using a DAP caulk, but I'm seeing some cracks and splits in the crown moulding after just 3 years.
Videos as helpful as these never go out of style! To this day I still refer this video to my friends! Subtle, but beautiful work on those molds!
Interesting stuff for me Jon. We don't do anywhere near as much trim work in the UK. I wish we did, it's a really satisfying part of the job.
Thanks Graham
that is the same baseboard and molding the guy installing it in our kitchen. Thanks for posting so I can see how it all fits since next week is when it will be installed.
You made things look so easy. You are a good teacher.
Thanks for this video, Jon. It's exactly what I needed to see before I start to replace my existing baseboards.
Magnificently simple presentation, sir!
Great advice for anyone who is even thinking about changing the molding in their home.
Nice video Jon. For generations things were done a certain way, and today not many were taught in the same manner so a lot of times the new way is accepted as being correct, maybe some are. It’s nice that you take your time and effort to show how things should be .
Lots of Great stuff here packed into 7 minutes! Enjoyable to listen to and you solved a couple of my frustrations - thanks :)
Great point about planning molding in one of your other videos. Plan out how everything will meet up.
Thank you for that excellent trim model concept! I intend on making one for each of my standard offered trims, cheers!
Thanks for the video Jon; it really makes me want to get back in the shop and start building.
I am really looking forward to the build videos of the cabinets.
Your miter saw cuts are so clean. No splintering. New blade on every cut?
i wonder this same, mine always tearout
The thing I notice about his cuts is he eases into the board like a surgeon, pushes through and then slows way down as he exits. I tried this today on some cuts and it makes a huge difference. Also swapped out a 60tooth for a 80 tooth Diablo and wow.
yes, new blade OF COURSE.
Hi David, no not a new blade I just take my time with the cut.
man.. i love all your work and design
New to the channel. Loads of information here. Love the end of the apron trick, never would have thought of it and it makes it look so much better. Thank you for sharing your skills. :)
Thanks for sharing. Learned some tips i can use on my projects.
Always fun listening to a fellow Jersey boy tawlk. 😁
Like the mock-up idea. Thanks for the tips.
One of the qualities that is really great about Big Stretch is that it is chemically friendly with mineral oil unlike silicone caulk. I found out about silicone caulk and mineral oil not co-habitating the hard way when we installed a teak kitchen counter. The contractor used silicone caulk and we treated the counter with mineral oil initially and regularly to maintain it. The silicone caulk shriveled up and looked terrible, lost all qualities for which you use it except some adherence. I had to remove it all which was a very difficult, tedious job. Neither the contractor nor the architects had ever heard of the problems with silicone and mineral oil. I researched many, many products until I found Big Stretch. I performed some experiments and found it got along just fine with mineral oil. The only problem is that it is water based. Getting it to dry and cure around the sink is an ongoing struggle we are still coping with. But, I hope anyone else thinking of using wood in a similar environment might benefit knowing this in advance. Great videos, by the way!
Thank you....really great input.
Any chance you'll be covering those built-ins on the channel? I am in the planning phase for some built-ins in my living room and would love to see your take on a project like that before solidifying my plans.
yes but it's about 6 weeks out
Awesome- looking forward to it!
So so helpful thank you Jon!
Glad to hear it! Thanks
Beautiful house, and your job. Congratulations!
Great video and I really like how you laid out what products you are going to use. One question what type blade are you using to cut the moulding my saw has a rip blade I believe is that ok for moulding or should I go with something finer.
TVs get bigger every year, which is why building a surround cabinet is generally a bad idea. My last house had a big inset for a tv above the fireplace, yet too small for the tv, so I had to build a custom box with a tv mount that had a 2 foot arm to extend out far enough to hang the tv just beyond the inset wall.
Love to hear any ideas on how to avoid build up in the corner where the casing meets the baseboard. I always end up trying to dig out the excess with a 5-in-1.
Sometimes I shape caulking with a wet paint brush.
GREAT JOB👍📐🔨 JON
Nicely done Jon, thanks for the info! 👍👊
Very nice! Love the look of this trim.
Thank you!
One question for you. I am planning construction where I will place AC duplex outlets in the base trim. How do you go about accurately cutting these holes in the trim, after the power boxes are already installed in the base of the wall?
Could you please point me to dimensions of the casing, base, and shoe. Also can you please say what material was used for window stool? What are the chances big box shops carry the casing? Is that casing finger jointed pine? Thanks Jon. Great as usual.
Hello I’m looking for some tips on the WindsorONE door casings thanks love your videos WindsorONE makes the best. Thanks for posting
Great work and attention to detail. I've found, however, the best place to spot a nail, after painting, is by placing it on the bead. Best to do that in a groove or flat area, so the filler can be sanded more easily.
I note too, that putting bevels on the outsides of the cut of the caulking nozzle will more accurately put the caulk where it's needed, with less excess.
this is a smart idea - thanks for sharing!
Great video and helps if one is using painted trim. How do you fill these gaps if one is going with a non-painted finish on the trim? I understand using filler between joints but how would you fill the gaps, say on the top of the base molding?
Jon, Do you recommend painting your trim before installing?
I have plain square moulding around all my doors windows and baseboards throughout my house and my question is would it be possible to refurbish them using a router to add a bit of design to it if so could you demonstrate that in a video
So I have a technical Q. Why do you shoot the nail in at the roundest part of the base boards? It becomes impossible then to hide the nails, and fill it to a perfect dome profile. My carpenter did the same and it’s impossible to make the profile round again, and it shows thru the paint as well.
Great video, very helpful!
How do you decide where to place your nails for each type of trim?
Great idea with the molding story board, thanks Jon
On new or remodel construction, is there a rule of thumb when picking or designing trim?
For example, in new construction, if there are high ceilings or a very spacious room it might look odd to have have general 3 1/2" baseboards. For aesthetic and balance of the room I would assume the width of the baseboard would have be a rough percentage of the room/home total square footage plus ceiling height. The same question would be applied to casing and crown.
Should crown be the same width as baseboard? Does it not matter?
Is there a general rule of thumb when deciding?
Thanks
Jon, I wanted to ask , do you have any ideas how to make your own trim using reclaimed wood? I have limited tools, no lathe or router. Any suggestions what tools to use?
Very helpful. What about the nail holes in the trim? Do you caulk those as well or just use spackle/wood filler and paint?
Joint compound
One of the only channels I don’t watch at 2x speed.
Well you should try mine
good work
Jon Number 1 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
I have internal doors in my hallway which are standard width but a little too wide in total for standard width trim/casings. In addition one side is narrower than the other. The trims have been cut down to suit but it just doesn't look good. Should I rip all the trim for sides and top of doors to the same width? Can a casing be too narrow?
surprised you also didn't include hitting up the nail holes with a no shrink crack filler an sanding sponge to finish it out
Big Stretch is one of the best caulks I have used on my projects too.
Shoe mould that is stained same color as the hardwood floor looks better. Plus, when you drag your Swiffer push broom across the floor you’ll jack up painted shoe mould as it brushes against it.
In all my years of Wood Working and finish carpentry I’ve never once seen that done.
Jon Peters common look in California
Guess It depends on the style of house
With molding I typically use adhesive in the back, and use store brand caulking in the crack. Still cracking occurs seasonally. Would switching to big stretch eliminate the need for adhesive in the back?
Make sure to write your name on the backside so they know who to curse for gluing the trim on when they need to replace it
What do you normally use to fill the nail holes? I use either joint compound or some spackle and sand it smooth.
During his toy/blanket chest video, he mentions the spackle you suggest. (th-cam.com/video/7rt5RbExOgk/w-d-xo.html). I'm imagining he would do the same for interior trim work.
Jon Peters Art
Good Afternoon
Beautiful your working thanks for your Big
Design
I’m oth sal Riyadh city K.S.A 20-1-2018
well done ..nice tips
What would you do for the top of a window with only 3" from window to ceiling?
Goog job man 👍🏼
So after you smoothed out the caulk at the top of the baseboard...how do you ensure that caulk smear on the paint isn’t visible? I feel like you either have to come back and paint over it or use painters tape in the first place to avoid that. Any tips??
Paint the wall after calking
That’s not what I wanted to hear! :)
Is that a finisher gun or a brad gun?
Thanks for video
How did you attach the small return? I'm guessing nails would split it
pin nails but sometimes just glue
This may seem crazy, but I have seen a lot of carpenters just caulk them in, on the cut face & the seams.........seems to work
Oh, Thumbs Up Jon!
Google: FastCap 2P-10 as well.
Robin Lewis wood glue and use painters tape to hold it while it dries
Where do you get your molding?
Can we fix this wooden baseboard on brick wall having cement plaster finish.?
I like very much to.
What psi do you set brad nailer to? The one I got from harbor freight makes a big hole when I nail my trim
Nice video Jon, thanks. Now I may need to contact my broker to invest in some Sashco stock. lol.
Hello, I have a question, I see you use nails in a lot of your projects, again in this one on the trim, but how do you cover them up ?
Thank you.
Joint compound
Thank you
I have a question for molding a door. I have a door that I molded on the left and top of the door. I can't mold the right because the previous owner put a wall next to the door. (Where the molding is supposed to be.) The door is on the east side wall and the wall is facing south. Now I have a 1/4 of an inch gap. How can I mold that?
That’s a tough one... sounds like you’ll need to fill the gap with a wooden shim on the side of the molding. And then fill with caulk or joint compound.
Great video....you look like John Guandolo 😅
Nice
Where can I purchase this exact molding?
Most good lumber yards
Tip
Don’t use cheap caulk, it’ll dry out fast and crack
Show the top of the window
Why not add a plinth block
Nice dead on miters there, Jon.
Thanks Steve
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 Show.
You shouldn’t use your finger to do chalking! With a lath plane the end to a 45 angle, dip in water and shape chalking to a finish
pshhhh just leave butt ends and cut 45s, no one will notice. Said every hack.
Jon, good info & video, PLEASE don't make videos while driving. It is just as dangerous as texting.
Good point Mark, I agree, I was going pretty slow on a dead end, but you are right
Send me more videos
for someone who has no idea what you are talk about please brife explain caus you show without any details