Italian vs. American vs. English Men's Dress Shoes & What Distinguishes Them - Gentleman's Gazette
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- This video was made in collaboration with AceMarks, purveyor of Italian Men's Dress Shoes with a great bang for the buck.
#dressshoes #acemarks #mensdressshoes
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What makes Italian shoes different from English or American shoes?
Hallmarks Of Italian Shoes
Italy has a long-standing tradition in craftsmanship and specifically, in leather goods. Because of that, you can find lots of shoemakers still in Italy, as well as many shoe factories.
Even in Europe, Italy has probably the highest density of bespoke shoemakers you can find. It's the same with tailors, shirt makers and other crafts especially related to menswear. One thing that always struck me about Italian bespoke shoes is that even a shoemaker in a small town has a very good eye for an elegant last.
Not so in Italy; the construction you find in Italian bespoke shoes is usually a hand-sewn Goodyear welt. Sometimes you can also find the Norwegian welt which is called Norvegese in Italian and it's more visible, it is more time consuming and not many other shoemakers are so much in love with that welt as Italians are.
Are Ace Marks The Best Italian Shoes Money Can Buy?
Absolutely not, however, that's not their focus. They try to sell a shoe that is fairly priced with a very high-quality level and an extremely great value level at a lower price. So let's have a closer look at Italian made factory shoes such as Ace Marks.
It's All About The Leather
Italians are very good tanners and because of that, most Italian shoes are made of Italian leather. Unlike in other countries, you can find entire towns dedicated to leather tanning and it's just a joy to see that that craft is still so very much alive in Italy today.
So when you look at quality Italian Shoes, they will likely have a hand burnished patina with either something darker areas and lighter areas which makes the shoe more lively, easier to combine, and it simply looks much better than a plain colored leather shoe.
Shoe Construction
Most quality Italian shoes are either Blake-stitched or Blake rapid stitched. Blake rapid is superior to just Blake and very similar to Goodyear in the sense that it's more complex but with Blake sometimes you also have the issue that the thread will transport water from the wet street directly to the inside of your shoe which can be quite uncomfortable.
Shoe Quality
In terms of costs, they're all very similar to each other including the machine-made Goodyear welt. In terms of quality, many would rate Goodyear welt on top of the bunch however, that's not necessarily true. A Goodyear welted shoe just has different characteristics than let's say a blake rapid shoe.
Ultimately what matters more is the design of the last and how it works with your foot. When it comes to heel height Italian shoes have been all over the place. In the 70s, you saw really really tall heels but today, you can mostly find a moderate heel which is perfectly suitable for every kind of man.
Overall I would say that Italian shoes are always a little more fashion-forward, they have lasts that are longer, maybe a little rounded, maybe a little more extreme, they're usually very stylish, and always put emphasis on elegance.
What About English Factory Made Shoes?
In my experience, they're generally a little stiffer which means the uppers are a little stiffer, the soles a little stiffer, and that's because they use the Goodyear welt method, machine welted almost exclusively in every factory I've ever seen.
What About American Shoes Such As Allen Edmonds or Aldens?
Just like English shoes, they're machine Goodyear welted and their lasts are generally a little more old-fashioned. Some people may call it clunky but overall, it's just a different type of last.
Overall, I say American shoes are more similar to English shoes than Italian shoes but obviously, that's a generalization. You can always find exceptions to the rule.
09:12 Outfit Rundown
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I had my biggest score ever today... a $2.99 thrift store special that looked horrid, but had all the right hallmarks turned out being an $890 pair of Santoni loafers. Once I stripped all the wax, they looked brand new.
I like the French last. Not as elongated as the Italian, but not rounded like the English. It's a nice in between.
Man, I just love that brown suit. I have seen you wear that it several videos and I think it makes you look a lot sleeker and younger.
I don't think anyone else could have made this video better than you Raphael...thanks!
Thanks!
Nice and informative video... one small nitpick: in Italian "norvegese" is pronounced with a "soft" G, more or less as if it was written "norvejese" ;)
Thanks
You said in the video: "Italians, even in a small town has a good eye for an elegant last" thank you for this compliment! actually maybe we born with inside the natural taste of beauty. I'm so proud of us :)
Lovely video! Could you please do an Italian vs Amrican vs British Suits video, where you show us how to distinguish one style from the other visually?
Rasputin BlackJack You can only identify an Italian suit, from their shoulder. Other features like paddings, trimming or lapel width can be adopted in any 'style' of suits. There isn't a clear border between them.
Sunny Mok What about the shoulder makes it Italian? Am keen to learn, thanks!
The first thing is the vent. Usually, a single vent is American, while double vent is often English and no vent is Italian
The shape of italian suits could be very different, depends of region of the Italy. There are completely different shapes in Rome, Milan, and Torino.
Raphael you have the best channel out there. I love your style history lessons.
Thanks
Another excellent video. Ad a slim guy, I definitely go for Italian shoes. I feel they match my frame with their slim silhouette. Thanks!
"So are Ace Marks the best Italian shoes money can buy?
Absolutely... NOT!"
I laughed so hard at that.
??
Sponsors can't be too happy about that
im shocked and wonder is this really a sponsor video?. lol
You know. Funnily enough, Sven has used this exact same phrase in his Q&A video. I understand what he's trying to say, but the phrasing may not imply the best meaning.
Ace Marks is a company that goes for really good quality shoes for an affordable price. It’s not a company that goes for the most pristine, crafted, expensive shoes. That’s the point he was getting at.
This may have been the most honest assessment of the differences among the types of shoes that I have seen.
Great video. I loved the perspective on style differences by country. Not surprising that the styles fit the culture and personality of the people. I really enjoyed this one!
The video is very good. After years of torturing my feet in more fashion but no less expensive shoes I have gone much more classic. (alligator are the worst, they break your feet in not vice versa, with well known, high end brands) My favorites these days are Alden, George Cleverly and Tod's. I am always tempted by lacquered soles but feel it is a crime to walk on the street in them. ( my Saint Laurent Chelsea boots) Talking of crimes you are guilty of one of my pet peeves. It is always important to polish your shoes. Particularly front toe and heel. That cam make shoes look shabby very quickly. My dad was RAF- he taught me and we wore Church's shoes for school. I did own John Lobb once but have no idea what happened to them. I purchased Prada men's shoes in Italy for the very first season. Very classic in their hard glazed leather but it was more than obvious they were made by Church's. They eventually bought the factory as Hermes bought John Lobb- who had much better lasts. I could not tell you which are the most comfortable these days. Possible Alden 975 Color 8 Shell Cordovan, long wing Blucher. Bought in the store they measure your feet. All depends on weather and how my feet feel.. What socks you wear is enormously important for comfort as much as style. Merino wool I find the best. Cotton blends can get 'soggy'
I had just finished putting a shine to my trifecta of shoes I ordered from Ace Marks' Kickstarter (I took Sven's advice on the black oxford, brown derby, cordovan loafer 'starter pack') and log on to see this video! I'm a big fan of their work, as a young man without much money to spend but who wants to look elegant. I get compliments every time I put a pair of their shoes on, without fail. I'm glad to see my favorite TH-cam channel covering my favorite shoes!
Tom McMorrow I need to replace my black oxfords so perhaps Ace Marks will be a contender 😀
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us Raphael! I've learned a lot about fashion here on Gentleman's Gazette! :)
I prefer Italian as well. I don't buy shoes as much as I used to though, especially imported.
Italian shoes are the Best
I have a pair of dall jet Italian creepers that I got in 2003 and there still good.
No way ....where do the think the Oxford ,Brogue etc originally come from ?
Lovely! I now know what type of spectators i’m going to invest in. Thanks again Raphael, keep the video’s coming.
I agree with most of what you said, especially the preference for longer last for loafers. I believe a loafer looks the best in longer lasts.
Nice video (your expertise really comes across!). I have both Italian and British shoes (not bespoke). I like the Italian for style (British are a bit clunky) but the British seem a bit more strongly constructed for the wet climate
Maybe I missed it, but would be great to cover the topic: shoe care, like which means to apply to your shoes, which shoe trees to buy and where etc.
I only have italian Andrea Firenze soft suede shoes, maybe next i go for a smooth leather or so.
OMG, the idea of a video per day become more true *_* amazing Sven !!!
Great video but you are definitely missing french shoes here were you have some of the most amazing and talented shoe makers in the world!
David Bowie would never wear anything but British shoes - "that last thing you want iso ne of this little dainty Italian things at the end of the leg line''
Allen Edmonds and Nettleton for business dress, Ferragamo and Santonni loafers for casual
Another excellent educational video from Mr. Schneider. 👍🏽
Please please please talk about Australian dress boots! They are, in my opinion, the single finest shoe in the world, particularly RM Williams.
You left out one shoe I love. Belgian Loafers, which is the most comfortable shoe.
Excellent video. Very informative. Thank you!
Super presentation! Lovely shoes! Have you ever heard of McCreedy and Schreiber shoes of NYC?
Congratulations on your outfit Sven, i generally love button-downs with ties, but ur tie on it's own is lovely already. Greetings from Germany :)
I hope there will be same subject video dedicated to boots
And the top italian suede is made in leeds by cf stead and co
a few months to a year ago I had subscribed to literally all of the youtube fashion advice people. even alpha.m
and since then I've unliked them all except GG and Ashley. The reason, upon introspection is that the rest of them (esp Zuniga) hawk quartz watches
it's just that simple. If you followed that advice and started buying up tons of quartz watches (and there are some decent ones out there) you'll look back after months or years and question your purchase once you put your ear up to your first mech watch.
The other reason is probably that Ashley and Raphael are older. The rest teach you how to dress "loud" - A&R teach you how to dress stylishly
Follow a&r if you want but they're the worst imo
I've tried Blake stitched shoes once and the thread makes my feet uncomfortable. I stick to Goodyear welted or hand welted shoes ever since.
i've been thinking of buying my first pair of Rancourt shoes. any opinions on those?
Nice review. Saint Crispin and Gaziano & Girling. Can you do a review on both brands? G&G is coming to Thailand soon and I have an appointment with them. Both have excellent qualities and design but which is the better investment? Thanks
Great video! Any thoughts on Budapesters or (Austro-)hungarian shoes in general?
I wear running shoes 99.9% of the time. Even to dinner.
In the summer. I wear flip flops. 99.9% of the time.
I wore dress shoes last night to a wedding.
Took them right off immediately after. Flip flops on.
Anyone who meets me will immediately realize that I don’t need fancy clothes or ‘proper attire’ to be respected. A real man gets respect from his true character and his integrity. Not the way he dresses.
I find that Italian and British shoes are stitched far more precisely than American (like Alden).
Alden shoes have definately caught my interest thank you
I love Spanish shoes.
Alden and Allen Edmonds get their Shell Cordovan from the same supplier. Not sure I agree that one is better than the other based on material only.
Yes, the cordovan is from Horween but Alden is a bigger customer and gets the best hides at the time when there is more demand than supply like at the moment.
7:40 and those brown loafers..this was a nice video
I won a pair of Italian shoes at a holiday event. The shoe is made by a company from the 50s, named “Danino”. I cannot find any other information about them. They have never been worn. And the story told to me was that the manufacturer’s building caught fire, and the shoe was saved. Does anyone know of that company? He entire marking says “Gallaratese Varese Danino. Thanks in advance.
Another excellent video, my question for you is the shoes in the beginning on Boardwalk Empire are a pair I would like to buy next. I don't want a cheap pair, so who has them?
En buenos aires italian style es lo máximo
Woot Woot! When Raphael endorses a product, you know it's gold! I will be looking at Ace marks from now on.
great video as always sven. I would like to see how the the leather on the ace mark shoes creases over time, the leather quality seems poor.
I love Allen Edmonds. I can get nice shoes in my size 5 - 5.5 D.
What are japanese shoe brands ?
I like the looks of my Ted Bakers (English) best but my Bruno Maglis (Italian) are much more comfortable and seemingly better quality.
Ted Baker are not English, they are made in Asia. By English shoes, he means goodyear welted made in England shoes like Loake or Barker for example.
@@marcustulliuscicero9140 T H I S !!!
LOVE the brown suit! :)
This video was very informative. May I ask where do you get your dress slacks from? They are so nice and well fitting.
Absolutely beautiful suit.
Thanks :)
Hi!
Minute 5:40, are those ace marks?
Many thanks
Id recommend shoes from Switzerland
Make a video on Indian made leather shoes... Most of the manufacturing for big brands is done here
Mr. Raphael Schneider, you said you owned romanian shoes, what is your opinion about them, in terms of quality, price?
What romanian brends you recommend?
Thank you!
I had never heard of Ace marks I took a look only D and E width so very limiting although understandable with a new company.
I may be a bit noobish on the shoe topic, but i really don't see the point of spending several hundreds or (thousands?) on bespoke shoes. Suits yes, although MTM does it perfectly well for me.
I recently bought brown cap toe Oxfords at Shoepassion for 219. Hand made yes (well they don't say to what degree) but RTW. I can't find any flaws, and unless there is an ultra connoiseur at the event i am wearing them, i don't think anyone will ever spot the difference.
Not only appearance , wether italian shoes are comfortable to wear ?
Would have been interesting if you had covered Hungarian shoes as the Budapester last is iconic and the country offers similar great value for money as the Spanish maloca houses
Good stuff for another video ;)
Very informative, but what about the french?
It’s not fair you left out Spanish, Portuguese and Romanian shoes!!! Carmina, Carlos Santos are right up there in terms of quality, last options and not to mention price!!!
Ralph I like shoes from Paul Parkman. Can you please suggest me a pair of Brown shoes from that brand to buy as a first pair of nice dress shoes. Thank you.
I recently purchased a pair of Carlos Santos (Portuguese) boots. What characteristics usually define them?
I have seen all your shoe videos and I was about to get the shoe passion 591 double monks. Who wins between shoepassion and acemarks? And taking the price into account ($365 regular price vs $200 Kickstarter price)? Thanks in advance for your help!!
Raphael, I am looking for a do everything, classic shoe. I wear prescription orthotics (no major issues, just flat footed) and don't mind spending a few hundred $.. what am I looking for?
Great video. I have a question for you, what do you think of short beanies?
Hey,what about legendary Church's,or Franceschetti?
Wonderful videos. Considering your type of dress, do you lean more towards English, Italian, or American Styles?
I suggest you watch the video and you shall find the answer ;)
Hello Rafael, I’ve been a fan of yours for some time now. I recently watched your how to dress as a lawyer video and would like ur opinion on how to dress as a young consultant. Thank you for your efforts 👍
very interesting video!!
I don't know if you've done this but can you do a video on Zoot suits and pin stripe suits?
necesito la traducción al español me gustan mucho estos Zapatos
Em Itália se diz quer conhecer o caráter de um homem ? Olhe primeiro nos pés .
Any suggestions for very soft leather Goodyear welted shoes? In my experience most Goodyear welted shoes are generally made with stiffer leather (English for example).
All goodyear welted shoes are going to be stiffer than a Blake stiched, because there is cork in the base of the shoe.
Great video!
For cheap shoes i prefer Spanish, mid range will be English or handwelted Italian. Bespoke probably go for Japanese.
Have you had any experience with Mr Undandy shoes?
Are shell cordovan shoes worth the money?
Mexican huaraches, if you please
Can you talk about Spanish shoes?
Very nice video...
I'm not a fan of Italian shoes, I don't like the pointy designs which really don't fit my wide voluminous feet. I'd love to have an Italian bespoke pair made though.
Acemarks vs Shoepassion? Price point is very close, but what about the quality difference?
I wear British and American shoes simply because they offer wider widths. As a British "G" fit I find almost all Italian shoes too narrow.
Italian shoes come in different widths too
Sir can i knw whr i can buy these shoes😊
Me gustaría vender esos zapatos cómo puedo hacer?
So I'm really stuck and need advice! My husband needs a dress shoe that can work with his dress pants/dress shirt and blazer. He wears a bit of a mix and match type items and sometimes wears a tie. The problem he has is has to fly and only wants to travel with a carry on suit case. He walks for long periods through the airport so it must be comfortable, not too flat, nice cushion, light weight and breathable Stylish and affordable! Praying I kind find something around 200 bucks or less but I might be dreaming! What shoes should he buy and what color?
Love this
Nice outfit Sven
I heard ace marks styling and cost/quality isn't that good. You should check out satorial talks top 20 shoe brands.
Yeah, but they've sponsored him lol. It's an okay shoe for a Blake stitched shoe, at least he was honest about saying its not the best, but I'm not pleased he's taken money to promote an inferior product (even at the price point, you can buy English goodyear welted Barker shoes for less than AceMarks, or Asian/Spanish Meermin)
I now wear higher ankle boots due to the fact that I struggle with flat feet so I basically butcher every pair of shoes in no-time. The boots I have now are basically what they have in Peaky Blinders (absolutely love them though). Do you have any recommendations on brands perhaps that deal with my feet problem?
Hi
What Romanian shoes do you own?
Quando guardi Gentleman's gazette e capisci perchè è meglio comprare le scarpe dal calzolaio sotto casa....
non c'era bisogno di guardare un suo video per capirlo noi italiani siamo i migliori
excuse me sir,I would be grateful if you can add subtitle on this video,thank you very much :)
Can you please confirm if it was on purpose that your shirt collar was not tugged in at 1:15. Just like the guy you mentioned in your sprezzatyra video :D
This shirt has a tendency to do that...