Great video. You did such an excellent job explaining everything. I wish I had your talent. My only question is, have you ever used or done a stained concrete on a project??
@@timbercreekwoodcraft-ryanp5626 I’m sure, but having it all concrete with the drains give so much more of a clean look than those I’ve seen that are still concrete but have that stainless pan in it 🤷🏽♂️
Two things for anyone who wants to duplicate this. 1) Every commercial available burner insert will include instructions that state that the burner enclosure must not be made of flammable material (in this case wood). 2) Those instructions will also state that you need two vents (ideally opposite sides) with a minimum area of 18 square inches.
Awesome build. i was originally going to just buy a little firepit, but im a big DIY'r and plan to build my own outdoor patio furniture, so might as well do this too. thank for the video. those ABS plastic drains won't have an issue with the heat?
Good question! I recently sold it, I know it was just shy of being able to fit a standard propane tank underneath though.. I'd say around 18". Thanks for the kind words!
Remember, always raise the bottom of your fire tables with legs for ventilation. LP Gas is heavier than air and will settle to the floor. Just in case of a leak you would want to avoid flash fires at all costs. A 2 inch gap is the minimum requirement for this application I think.
Nice builld! I have a few questions though, as I'd like to give this a try. Does the gas tank tuck up inside the table, ... or is it too hot in there for that? I guess my gas grill does so? How much does the entire thing weigh? Is it a light weight concrete mix? Can two people move it around easily or do you pretty much want to set it and not move it? Roughly what was you total end cost?
This was hooked up to natural gas so no tank but the design would essentially be the same just a bit taller. One thing to note is that you do need to have the base ventilated. I achieved that by spacing the boards just slightly apart all around the base. The top is easily moved by 2 people since it is separate from the base. My guess maybe 125lbs? It is not a lightweight mix, just the Quikcrete countertop mix. Has finer aggregate than a normal mix. I think end total is materials was around $500? Not too bad, but that will vary depending what part of the country your in. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
It held up very well, there is no direct flame on the concrete. The fire glass gets very hot and maybe in time something will deteriorate. That's why I recommend getting the stainless drop in pan.
I’ve done this before. Use a baking strainer and run the original mix through it. Then you’re left with fine sand and cement and it works very well. I’ve always added some acrylic fortifier (Home Depot) when I do the slurry for extra adherence though I dunno if it’s necessary or not.
this in no way is criticism because it looks super nice, but the glue you used on the door may not last too long. i "believe" that titebond 2 is not waterproof so if this thing is outside, it might start to fail after a couple of years. i could totally be wrong and you can tell me to get lost! lol
Your right I didn’t think about that when I was building it. Should have at least used titebond III or better epoxy with a stretcher board screwed to it on the inside. The good thing is the concrete overhangs so it won’t ever get “soaked” per say. Good eye!
Ambient temperature plays a big role in curing time. Cooler temps will give you more working time. I believe the mix I used already has a plasticizer in it as well. Is it your worried you wont be able to pour the whole thing in time? I would caution against just adding more water as well. That will cause strength loss and issues down the road.
@@layneupcott6089 yes that is optimal strategy for the concrete to cure to its max strength. Not sure if he was referring to working time or the actual curing process?
BEST video out there for a fire table!!
Thank you for wearing a mask during the concrete mixing!
I’ve been around concrete a long time to know that is no bueno to breath in lol
Nice video. Where is the finished product showing the flames? That is the visual payoff. Maybe next one? 🔥
Great video. You did such an excellent job explaining everything. I wish I had your talent. My only question is, have you ever used or done a stained concrete on a project??
Great work 👍👍
Great vid! Thanks for those closing comments I was debating that and I think after watching this that it would be better to just buy a drop in.
Yea way easier to drop in a pan. Done a few more of these since and its a breeze.
@@timbercreekwoodcraft-ryanp5626 I’m sure, but having it all concrete with the drains give so much more of a clean look than those I’ve seen that are still concrete but have that stainless pan in it 🤷🏽♂️
Great video. Very thorough.
This is so amazing!!!
Thank you!
Two things for anyone who wants to duplicate this. 1) Every commercial available burner insert will include instructions that state that the burner enclosure must not be made of flammable material (in this case wood). 2) Those instructions will also state that you need two vents (ideally opposite sides) with a minimum area of 18 square inches.
Awesome. Will try👍🏼
Definitely worth it! Save yourself a ton of money too
Awesome build. i was originally going to just buy a little firepit, but im a big DIY'r and plan to build my own outdoor patio furniture, so might as well do this too. thank for the video.
those ABS plastic drains won't have an issue with the heat?
Great looking fire table! Just curious what is the overall height of the table including the concrete top?
Good question! I recently sold it, I know it was just shy of being able to fit a standard propane tank underneath though.. I'd say around 18". Thanks for the kind words!
@@timbercreekwoodcraft-ryanp5626 what does something like this sell for?
if the sides of cement are rough, is there something I can spread over them to smooth it?
No fire demonstration?
It probably didn't work. lol
What is the pipe tape/dope you used on the gas pipes? Did you have to consider the heat of the fire on it?
Remember, always raise the bottom of your fire tables with legs for ventilation. LP Gas is heavier than air and will settle to the floor. Just in case of a leak you would want to avoid flash fires at all costs. A 2 inch gap is the minimum requirement for this application I think.
This is an awesome channel !!
Appreciate it!
What were the dimensions on the “knockout box”
Nice builld! I have a few questions though, as I'd like to give this a try. Does the gas tank tuck up inside the table, ... or is it too hot in there for that? I guess my gas grill does so? How much does the entire thing weigh? Is it a light weight concrete mix? Can two people move it around easily or do you pretty much want to set it and not move it? Roughly what was you total end cost?
This was hooked up to natural gas so no tank but the design would essentially be the same just a bit taller. One thing to note is that you do need to have the base ventilated. I achieved that by spacing the boards just slightly apart all around the base. The top is easily moved by 2 people since it is separate from the base. My guess maybe 125lbs? It is not a lightweight mix, just the Quikcrete countertop mix. Has finer aggregate than a normal mix. I think end total is materials was around $500? Not too bad, but that will vary depending what part of the country your in. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
After you applied slurry to the top, how long before you hit it with orbital sander?
A few hours after it’s rock hard
Does the concrete hold up to the heat or has it gotten brittle?
It held up very well, there is no direct flame on the concrete. The fire glass gets very hot and maybe in time something will deteriorate. That's why I recommend getting the stainless drop in pan.
what type of silicon that you use for the edge?
It was just a normal silicone caulking, nothing special
And... the weight of this concrete top ???
Heavy hahah, two people minimum to move
What did you use for slurry??
You can use just cement and water or mix in some really fine sand to go with it.
I’ve done this before. Use a baking strainer and run the original mix through it. Then you’re left with fine sand and cement and it works very well. I’ve always added some acrylic fortifier (Home Depot) when I do the slurry for extra adherence though I dunno if it’s necessary or not.
this in no way is criticism because it looks super nice, but the glue you used on the door may not last too long. i "believe" that titebond 2 is not waterproof so if this thing is outside, it might start to fail after a couple of years. i could totally be wrong and you can tell me to get lost! lol
Your right I didn’t think about that when I was building it. Should have at least used titebond III or better epoxy with a stretcher board screwed to it on the inside. The good thing is the concrete overhangs so it won’t ever get “soaked” per say. Good eye!
👍👍👍👍
You didn't fire it up
How can I slow down curing time
Ambient temperature plays a big role in curing time. Cooler temps will give you more working time. I believe the mix I used already has a plasticizer in it as well. Is it your worried you wont be able to pour the whole thing in time? I would caution against just adding more water as well. That will cause strength loss and issues down the road.
Continuously spray the concrete with water .. light water tho not to heavy
@@layneupcott6089 yes that is optimal strategy for the concrete to cure to its max strength. Not sure if he was referring to working time or the actual curing process?
Set control by rapid set @ home depot
Tavern 12
I bet this joker is heavy.
Never spray paint near parked cars.
Black iron will rust
That's why he used high temp paint and painted it black.