Kidde central smoke and CO system has a third red wire. I have measured the voltage on that wire in reference to the neutral wire and found that it measure 10-10.5 VDC when smoke alarm goes off and 2.5VDC for CO.
The interconnect system uses an 8 bit code for the CO signal. For CO, it pulses 9v so fast that your voltmeter doesn’t have time to register the full 9v.
Brandon Willmott I just put it in the already existing gang box in my ceiling. I taped it up with electrical tape so no metal is exposed (to prevent shorting).
Your sensors manager is MiCasaVerde Vera right? Do you know if theres another one i can use to manage the sensors without Vera? Opensource or one that i can build?
Kelson Daniel Gonçalves Yes, I use Vera but there are others that will work. Check out this link: www.mysensors.org/controller/ I believe OpenHAB and Domoticz are popular alternatives but you may want to do a quick search on the forum to see if there are any recommendations.
amtpdb1 I got the info on the interconnect connections from here: www.edcheung.com/automa/smoke_det.htm and he recommended using two in case one of them ever failed.
i m waiting for my octocoupler to arrive, while that is on its way i m tinkering with the almost ready code, can i simulate the octocoupler with a reed switch?
Yes, but you may have to make some temporary adjustments to the code. The code is currently designed to pick up multiple signals from a Kidde detector. You can adjust the CYCLE_COUNTER & CYCLE_INTERVAL to adjust for your manual "signals" instead of what the Kidde sends.
The 'u' stands for micro... Barbarians! There is history before the Declaration. The 'u' is a mutilated 'μ', the 12th letter of the Greek alphabet, comparable to our 'm', which makes the connection with 'micro' all the more logical. Excuse my rant. Great project! I've been onto something like this myself.
Kidde central smoke and CO system has a third red wire. I have measured the voltage on that wire in reference to the neutral wire and found that it measure 10-10.5 VDC when smoke alarm goes off and 2.5VDC for CO.
The interconnect system uses an 8 bit code for the CO signal. For CO, it pulses 9v so fast that your voltmeter doesn’t have time to register the full 9v.
Thanks for making the video and including the details, Pete. What type of enclosure do you use for it? Would you recommend some type of gang box?
Brandon Willmott I just put it in the already existing gang box in my ceiling. I taped it up with electrical tape so no metal is exposed (to prevent shorting).
Super helpful project.
Your sensors manager is MiCasaVerde Vera right? Do you know if theres another one i can use to manage the sensors without Vera? Opensource or one that i can build?
Kelson Daniel Gonçalves Yes, I use Vera but there are others that will work. Check out this link: www.mysensors.org/controller/
I believe OpenHAB and Domoticz are popular alternatives but you may want to do a quick search on the forum to see if there are any recommendations.
Is the reason you put resistors in series because you did not have the correct resistor for your needs or is there another reason?
Thanks
amtpdb1 I got the info on the interconnect connections from here: www.edcheung.com/automa/smoke_det.htm and he recommended using two in case one of them ever failed.
Pete B Thanks for your time.
Have a nice day.
i m waiting for my octocoupler to arrive, while that is on its way i m tinkering with the almost ready code, can i simulate the octocoupler with a reed switch?
Yes, but you may have to make some temporary adjustments to the code. The code is currently designed to pick up multiple signals from a Kidde detector. You can adjust the CYCLE_COUNTER & CYCLE_INTERVAL to adjust for your manual "signals" instead of what the Kidde sends.
Thank you. Very helpful but can i ask for your code?
Thanks. The link to the code is in the video description (one the MySensors site).
The 'u' stands for micro... Barbarians! There is history before the Declaration. The 'u' is a mutilated 'μ', the 12th letter of the Greek alphabet, comparable to our 'm', which makes the connection with 'micro' all the more logical.
Excuse my rant. Great project! I've been onto something like this myself.
Cool
Eliminate the arduino and use an ESP8266-01.