Built my 08 RMK 800 last year, apparently knew nothing about breaking in. Got 100 miles out of it and had low compression. Tore into it to find glazed cylinders and pistons that are ready to be replaced. Thanks for the info, I'll definitely do it different this year!
this especially applies to two stroke engines i've built a ton of off-road engines and i have found that 2 strokes are very temperamental to break ins if not done correctly where as the 4 strokes are a bit more forgiving with break ins but good video for sure its good for those just tearing into their quad or bike, etc, or the first time, to see how it actually works so their first engine build goes as smoothly as possible. now yes there is always gonna be those engines that just weren't meant to be, haha but that is just life in general haha
BTW back in my day decades ago a lot of two strokes had a chrome bore which I don't recall even honing those? And rings often had Teflon coating ...I don't imagine break in was nearly as much a thing? Just a guess...I mean even still there are bearing and bushings that would benefit
Now they come programmed to not give full power till a certain amount of hours or mileage, may seem like you have all the power but you don’t, you can also go to the dealer and have them reset your break in period in the future if you rebuild your sled and don’t trust your self however I’m only aware of this on 2018+
My ride is good to go but I got another newer sled with a blown motor to build a monster over the summer. With the first fire I get keeping it below 2,000 RPM. (probably ok below 3000 too) but let it idle? Idling is bad, on 4 strokes the most cam wear at idle, a steady RPM is bad for either 2 or 4 strokes. My plan is to first start with the drive belt off or maybe even the clutch not on yet. First start alternate the RPM from idle to 2000 never sitting at a specific RPM too long until full operating temp, Second start same but Idle to 2250 rpm, third idle to 2500, fourth idle to 2750 rpm... Keep doing it going up 250 rpm each time and the tach needle sweeping at moderate speed and never sitting still. After this. I'm researching what race teams are doing with dyno break-ins.
You should be safe I just put a new motor in my sled and pre mixed it 40:1 it’s and efi sled too I haven’t had any problems with it and for the oil you can mix any 2 stroke or preferably the oem oil or a synthetic blend 2 stroke oil
Assuming with old cylinder new piston you would still hone the bore to create cross hatch to seat brand new rings...no nasty boring saw teeth" involved like on a freshly bored cylinder but either way the new rings still need to seat, I would think much less time involved though.if not an actual fresh bore..but that is a guess Also some rings used to be coated like with Teflon (to facilitate break in I assume?) ...or at least many decades ago when I briefly was a Kawasaki /DKW wrench that was a thing
They wish people followed those over the top maintence schedules! They would make more money on parts and oil than they did selling the machine! I can see following that crap if you raced at a serious level and had full racing budget but for the average Joe in to play? Be serious
This was the best understanding of bike break in I've ever seen thanks budd
glad it could help you josh!
Great information on how to break-in a snowmachine or sled and or atv. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Built my 08 RMK 800 last year, apparently knew nothing about breaking in. Got 100 miles out of it and had low compression. Tore into it to find glazed cylinders and pistons that are ready to be replaced. Thanks for the info, I'll definitely do it different this year!
this especially applies to two stroke engines i've built a ton of off-road engines and i have found that 2 strokes are very temperamental to break ins if not done correctly where as the 4 strokes are a bit more forgiving with break ins but good video for sure its good for those just tearing into their quad or bike, etc, or the first time, to see how it actually works so their first engine build goes as smoothly as possible. now yes there is always gonna be those engines that just weren't meant to be, haha but that is just life in general haha
BTW back in my day decades ago a lot of two strokes had a chrome bore which I don't recall even honing those? And rings often had Teflon coating ...I don't imagine break in was nearly as much a thing? Just a guess...I mean even still there are bearing and bushings that would benefit
Very good explanation, what you guys recommended for oil on a new polaris Rmk?
great explanation thank you for that
Glad it was helpful!
Appreciated, thank you....
A tip : you can watch movies on Flixzone. Been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Brantley Bode yea, been using Flixzone for since november myself :)
is it ok to spray fogging oil into carbs to help flush assembly lube and grease out of seals
Thank you
Welcome!
How do factory sleds get around this sequence of honing the cylinders? Everyone just rides full throttle out of the box.
Now they come programmed to not give full power till a certain amount of hours or mileage, may seem like you have all the power but you don’t, you can also go to the dealer and have them reset your break in period in the future if you rebuild your sled and don’t trust your self however I’m only aware of this on 2018+
What about 2 stroke with fuel injection like the 850s
same thing
My ride is good to go but I got another newer sled with a blown motor to build a monster over the summer. With the first fire I get keeping it below 2,000 RPM. (probably ok below 3000 too) but let it idle? Idling is bad, on 4 strokes the most cam wear at idle, a steady RPM is bad for either 2 or 4 strokes.
My plan is to first start with the drive belt off or maybe even the clutch not on yet. First start alternate the RPM from idle to 2000 never sitting at a specific RPM too long until full operating temp, Second start same but Idle to 2250 rpm, third idle to 2500, fourth idle to 2750 rpm... Keep doing it going up 250 rpm each time and the tach needle sweeping at moderate speed and never sitting still.
After this. I'm researching what race teams are doing with dyno break-ins.
The most wear on a 4 stroke comment is because the engine is cold at startup. It is not a function of idling itself
Can i mix the gas on 2stroke efi?? Another thing i wanted to know was if its ok not to use brp xps 2stroke?
You should be safe I just put a new motor in my sled and pre mixed it 40:1 it’s and efi sled too I haven’t had any problems with it and for the oil you can mix any 2 stroke or preferably the oem oil or a synthetic blend 2 stroke oil
With efi being directly injected, it would think that it wouldn't help much..
If im using a new piston and rings. But used cylinder. Do i still need to break in.
yes you do!
Assuming with old cylinder new piston you would still hone the bore to create cross hatch to seat brand new rings...no nasty boring saw teeth" involved like on a freshly bored cylinder but either way the new rings still need to seat, I would think much less time involved though.if not an actual fresh bore..but that is a guess Also some rings used to be coated like with Teflon (to facilitate break in I assume?) ...or at least many decades ago when I briefly was a Kawasaki /DKW wrench that was a thing
So I can mix my premium gas for the first tank 600 etec
What parts does the extra oil lubricate ?
Extra oil in the gas will lubricate all the internals of the engine more. Piston, Piston Rings, bearings, any moving part.
learned something . im 60 YO you can teach old dogs
Yes we can, dog has to be smart haha
😂🤣
If you go by the manual you’ll be almost at half way thru a piston my 2018 says replace after 12 hours 🤣😂🤣😂
They wish people followed those over the top maintence schedules! They would make more money on parts and oil than they did selling the machine! I can see following that crap if you raced at a serious level and had full racing budget but for the average Joe in to play? Be serious
BS
"YMMV" also "YBSMV"