Fly Tying: Dropper Jig Method - Jig Flies
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- This is a step by step introduction to the Dropper Jig Method that I have developed that allows you to "Fine-Tune" your Jig flies (Post-tying) while guaranteeing a proper hook up presentation. My favorite thing about this system is that it in no way impedes the tying process of the fly and can even be used to fix previous ties that did not keel correctly. This systems allows the tier to tie any recipe or profile shape, while still controlling the hook orientation, while being able to fine tune the weight by changing the length of the lever arm.
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5:55 The unit is pound-foots. Don't forget your dimensional analysis. Great, super nerdy video on fly fishing. Love it.
Great analysis of a complex problem. Never heard a fly tier talk about moment of force. Great idea, will give it a try. Thanks, keep innovating.
I love the way you make everything make since. It takes me awhile to catch on to things. But your very good at explaining why, and how to do these things. Its greatly appreciated.
Hi, very good analysis and a revolutionary concept to tying a fly. I will have a go at using this concept to going deep on a fast flowing river to catch fresh running steelheads next week. Cheers, tight lines.
Tokyo rig. For flies. It is fun searching the world for techniques to apply and try. Love the videos.
I love this concept. I have been using something very similar based on Tackle Adviser's Scooby Doo Rig. That rig is used for soft plastics and replaces the need for jig heads. It also provides some great movement as the weight is keeling in the current giving erratic action to soft plastics. I have incorporated it with using Trout Magnets in fast moving water to get deeper into pools. If interested check out Tackle Adviser channel. Gunnar, I really enjoy all of your videos. You are very thorough and generous with the info you share. I appreciate the fact you are not selfish with your knowledge. As new to fly tying, I have learned so much from your "Tie Like a Pro" series. Keep up the great work young man, who says old dogs can't learn new tricks.
DUDE, YES!!! I was just trying to figure out how to do this on the lake yesterday! THANK YOU, YOU ROCK!!!
Just re-watched. This is huge! I'm literally trying to talk myself out of re-tying all my flies on jig hooks to take advantage of this technique. Where I fish is typically FULL of weed and structure snag opportunities so this is a MASSIVE potential improvement in my ability to get a fly in front of a fish. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
Interesting approach Gunnar - thanks for sharing! I fish a lot of darter, sculpin and logperch imitations as well as crayfish flies that I fish right on the bottom - hook-point up is the best way to go. Will give this a try.
Great video..again! You really analyze and put your thoughts to use and testing. You need that t-shirt that says, “l know it looks like I’m listening..but I’m really thinking about fishing” 😂. Have a great one, Good fishing to ya! 🎣
Very cool Idea. What if you just tied a mono tag 1/2 inch long and just used varying lengths of hollow core lead. You could start long and clip it shorter to reduce the weight on the river. Then if you need to you need to slip it off and start over.
Or to your point, add a bead once you figured out the perfect amount of weight using the hollow core lead.
Awesome Gunnar! You're a mad scientist that makes sense :o) Plus you tie great patterns! Thanks!
Great concep . Did you try a split shot instead of a bead ?
I did a similar concept by tying a piece of mono in to the shank, burn the tip so the split shot won’t slide , works great specially on sand eels patterns , my problem, after a few hrs casting, the split shot all come out, so I have to put one or two back depending on the actual conditions. Your loop solve the issue of loosing the bead that early in the game. Again great concept to chew on it 👌.
Thank you for sharing.
You keep mentioning papavicks if I'm hearing you right and wonder to whom you are referring to.
@@avamaria07 Bob Popovics is a well known fly fisherman, fly designer and author.
Bro, what if you used splitshot (not the removable kind) instead and rigged them like a drop shot rig. You could interchange weights without even cutting anything. Also if the weight did get lodged anywhere, you could pull and the split-shot would slide off your 40 lb. and you would get your fly back.
It’s an awesome method and I’m trying it! Lol!
Cool concept!
Thanks for sharing.
Very interesting my friend.
👍
Maybe could use heavy single strand eg 80 lb mono and melt the end to ball to hold bead.
I just found out about this video. Tell me, what can make a fly tied on an offset hook move not only up and down, but also to the sides, that is, to the right and to the left? I have tried making the fly's head thicker and larger. This gives some result, but still not the same as a fly with a classic hook.
What about using a 90 degree jig hook. That would allow almost a vertical drop versus having to have to bend the mono more forward to get it under the eye?
Great video. I will be using the technique.
Hey man, quick question, I’m making an order on Fly Fish Food rn and ive always needed grizzly saddle hackle for this pike streamers. Not the hackle like schapppen for tails, more of the “dry fly hackle” for the sides. Generally skinny. The guy at Fly Fish Food told me to get the Whiting American Rooster saddles. Any thoughts?
The American Saddles are great quality!
Nick Williams I feel like they’re way too wide for pike and Musky flies. I feel like dry fly saddles are the way to go but I’m not totally sure
@@theoutdoorangler1173 If you're looking for saddles similar to what Gunnar used in his Allspark Bulkhead tutorial, then dry fly stuff would be the way to go. You are correct, the Whiting America Saddles would be fairly wide for that purpose. They're great for tailing, fins, wrapping, etc., but for what you are looking for they might not be the best option! They are definitely cheaper than a high-quality dry fly cape/saddle/patch though!
Could you use a small swivel and spinner blade instead of a bead?
I'm speculating here - I think the blade may create lift and negate some of the keeling effect. I tied a bunch of spinnerbait flies which fish blade down at ordinary retrieve speeds in still water ("upside down" compared to ordinary spinnerbaits on baitcasting gear). In the test tank (trying to simulate a fast retrieve or current), the flies try to invert with the blade up.
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