"It doesn't matter how sharp it is in the Quiver. It matters how sharp it is when it hits the opposite shoulder", the Ranch Fairy. Now THAT'S WORDS OF WISDOM !!!!
I can find 1,000 videos that teach people to shoot circles & dots. The Ranch Fairy is the only guy teaching us what it takes to kill animals. He draws a very wide line between archers & bow hunters.
Troy rocks, he is teaching people how to truly HUNT responsibly. THP is a good fit with him because they are both working to make all hunters better. What more can we ask for? Thanks guys !
I know it's minor, but an old time knifemaker told me to rotate the head (flip it over) back and forth for the final passes. He said do a countdown- 4 on a side- 4 on the other, then 3, 2 and 1. He said this stops the "tip" from rolling over- like when you finish with 10 on one side only. Just FYI, it works for me.
By far 1 of the best sharpening vids ive watched for broadheads. I take it a step further. Instead of doing it on a wood table that has imperfections in height I use a 12x12 porcelain tile with a ultra smooth glaze finish, this eliminates any deviation in the wood. Another advantage to the tile is I can wet the sandpaper and it also helps with polishing. With the jig that was used for the Black Hornets 1/4" out will give you right around the same angle, move it out to 5/16" and you can make the angle shallower which will yield a sharper cutting angle. I go from 600g for a mild reprofile all the way to 12000, then to my strop. I was always told "Broadheads should be so sharp they scare the living shit out of you" This vid was so great I bought both jigs based on this video alone. Only thingbI havent mastered yet is putting a good convex grind on the cutting edge which would be the best of both worlds especially if youre going to utilize a shallower angle.
Ranch Fairy mentioned that the jigs don't necessarily match the existing bevel in the broadhead. There is a certain amount of adjustment built into the jig by adjusting how much broadhead sticks out of the jig. If you're sharpening too far back from the edge, slide the blade deeper into the jig and if you're too much on the edge, slide it out.
Those blades are so stout that even a mildly shallower angle wont hurt them in any way. These blades are nuts, like flying cleavers. I love putting edges on blades :-)
I put a thin coat of Vaseline on the edge of my sharpened broad heads. Air and moisture will dull them a bit over time, so the coating will protect them and keep them sharp longer. The Vaseline will disaepear after the shot.
This was a great show.... I have worked at a tannery for 40 years. We work with cow hides and learn how to sharpen our knives. This show is the truth. You need to work at it! We learned with sandpaper grits also.
Boys! I just bought my Olive Green THP hat! First year scouting ever and I’m 17 years old!! Now that I’m into it, I’m watching all the old deer vids. Keep it up guys. Love y’all. God Bless You
Ranch Fairy slammed it home. The sharper your broadhead is at moment of impact the more it cuts the smaller capillaries, veins, and arteries that are present in your vitals area. The more of them you cut the greater the hemorrhage. The more hemorrhage the greater the animal bleeds. The more the animal bleeds the greater the blood trail and the faster they expire. The faster they expire the more ethical the kill and the easier they are to find for retrieval. It really is a win win all around, but it takes time and patience. It's no replacement for shot placement and knowing your combination's limitations, but do yourself a huge favor and take a little time before your season's opener and get em sharp like they show you here. You'll thank yourself later. Good luck out there and thank you THP and Ranch Fairy for first rate honest content!
I I am so proud of myself because after years of sharpening broadheads the wrong way I finally got it right . I have been watching staysharp guidesTH-cam channel as well as purchasing quite a few of his sharpeners and for the first time in many years I have my broadheads (Cutthroat 150 grain) Beyond Hair popping Sharp.
Great video. I was watching Ranch Fairy before I started watching THP. He has me redoing all my arrows to increase FOC. Good stuff! I started watching THP dureing turkey season this year. THP is the real deal not some TV production. I no longer watch TV all I watch is youtube and every single vid THP has put out. Can't wait till the next one. THP has taught me so much. Love your aggressive hunting style.
This opens my eyes tremendously I went immediately out in my garage not even halfway through this video grabbed my arrows that were in my quiver that I was about to take into the woods next weekend for opener and I'm throwing them in the trash..... I was thinking about buying new g5s but those look a little more difficult to sharpen.
So could u guys also post a high detail video of setting up a arrow with high foc and how u guys did it idc how long it is, It would be great to post a ONE video on how to do it and not 20
Look up the Ashby Theory. Or Listen to Kifaru cast, not sure what episode it is but they go into FOC in great detail. Aron Snyder is the owner of Kifaru and has an unbiased opinion on gear he has no sponsors. As you can tell im a fan Boy. Look him up
yeah I'd like a series on getting into high FOC from start to finish. Including initial bow set up. It's not that most of that info isn't available from ranch fairy, but it's just too much jumping around and it's confusing as heck. Also, RF assumes in his videos that your cam timing, cam lean, etc. are good and your rest and knock point are set correctly, but it would be really helpful to have a video that shows how to diagnose and correct those problems. Many (most?) of us just don't have a local bow shop that is up to getting a bow ready to bareshaft tune with heavy, high FOC arrows. We're on our own.
I used this method and Innovative Outdoorsman's jog to sharpen my Black Hornet Set Razors for the first time last night. They are insanely sharp and it only took 10 minutes per head. It should take me 5 minutes next time.
Thanks for the video on sharpening. This is the same system a master cabinet maker showed us in school. His only add to the method was to use a piece of glass about 5x12 on the table under the sand paper. He would ad a few drops of water to the glass and the paper would stick almost like it was glued while running the jig back and forth.
To really up your game, get a piece of float glass or a sample of granite countertop. Give it a squirt of window cleaner or Simple Green, put the paper on the wet to stick it down and then spray the paper and go to work. You need a true flat surface to get perfectly sharp results. Any unevenness in the surface under the paper translate up into your edge. Another tip, you don't need the jig. You can do the same thing with a block of wood. For your hunting pack, if you don't want to invest in those DMT sticks, glue the paper on a paint stick. Use a table or a stump, anything reasonably flat and stable, and set the block parallel to the edge. Push the sharpening stick along the wood block and the edge to fix your angle and it works just like the guide. Move the block toward or away from the edge to match the sharpening angle to the broadhead. Woodworkers do this all the time to touch up chisels and plane blades. Trust me, their tools are next level sharp. I file and sharpen axes this way too and they're sharp enough to fillet the paper...not just cut it. Bonus, it'll do those curved heads too and just as easy.
Very informative video! The Ranch Fairy did a great job explaining in depth how to sharpen these type heads. I've got a collection of old Bear, Howard Hill, and many other makes of cut on contact broadheads. Now, I'm gonna have to get a jig, so I can put an edge on them and possibly get the old recurve out this season. Been several years since I've been able to bow hunt due to hand, back, and shoulder injuries. But, this stuff is getting me fired up! Thanks for taking the time to give us some instruction into sharpening. Stay safe and travel safe, Cubby
For the concave heads like the Simmons or the centaur, use paper wheels on a bench grinder. The paper wheel set up will get any 2 blade style heads extremely sharp and will make easy work with the concave heads as well. One wheel is coarse and one will polish the edge. Very simple and fast. Easier than hand sharpening
T-roy ...glad I found this channel..I'm shooting the magnus stinger and the tip is what I need help on..I ordered the grey jig and man it's awesome..could you follow up on just the tip...absolutely a great video..and you sir are what we call here in middle Ga a trip!!.thanks again Craig!!!
Great vid! I've paid the price for dull fixed blades. Trusted that the G5 Montecs would be sharp out of the package and ended up having really low penetration despite shooting 70# and having pass throughs in the past. Checked the other two that came in the package later and they were way more dull than the ones in this video pre-sharpened. Then went on a quest to bring those to an edge and never could. I think the "Too much pressure and impatience" quote applied to me well.
Seeing those 200 grain broadheads during the House Tour video makes more sense now after watching the wild boar hunt video and this sharpening video. I come from the retail world where the biggest grain broadhead that I saw at Cabela's was 125 grains and thought those are for elk hunters. Although I do remember when my Dad shot a recurve bow they had big Thunderhead style cut on contact blades were 150s in front of aluminum arrows. I have only had 100 grain broadheads (usually G5 Montecs or Stingers) in front of my Cabela's Hunter Extreme 340 grain arrows. I did switch to a mechanical (Dead On Arrival), but like the G5s have not shot them into an animal. So if I understand that right, that is a 440 grain arrow setup out of my old PSE Fire Flite from 2006 that is set at 60 lbs? Like Tony and others say it is about the business end of that arrow and what it is doing and you putting that arrow where it can best do its damage for a humane and quick kill. The first time that I have ever heard of single bevel broadheads was a couple years ago when Uncle Randy Newberg as some like to call him shot a big Utah bison with his bow using Easton FMJ arrows and 150 grain Bone Broadheads, it went straight through and embedded in the opposite shoulder blade. Pretty epic I say and a good testimony to that old school system making it's comeback. I will have to ask or see if Tony has on his channel how to resharpen the 3 blade one piece broadheads like the G5 Montecs or the Valkyrie Jagger or Blood Eagle (they're a long shuttle type design) broadheads. Those sharpening jigs might work depending on the angle. I know from watching a lot of bladesmithing/sword/knifemaking videos and TV shows that using many levels of grit sandpaper or belts is how they make those blades super razor sharp. Hand sanding a 10-30 inch blade takes time and patience using similar techniques to this. My Dad always said that the most useless thing one could bring into the woods is a dull knife and in this case dull broadheads. Thanks for sharing.
This is one of the most important videos you've ever posted. Most people don't know what sharp actually is, and this is a great easy way to get there. Im so glad you guys partnered up with Troy. These are great videos for the off season.
I bought a lansky knife sharpener kit years ago. It allows me to sharpen different angles and rounded blades. 17deg 20deg 25deg (what I use for virtually every edged tool) and 30 deg. To the question I saw earlier to sharpen the tip on tanto style tips you can rotate the lansky stones just a bit to sharpen the tips. I've reprofiled my zwickey eskimos to have tanto tips.
Great video guys. Such good info. When I started bowhunting almost 50 years ago sharpening broadheads was the norm. Then replaceable blades made us all lazy. Thanks THP and Ranch Fairy.
I think 3D shoots changed the industry for quite a while and now we are getting back to what works. With 3D we wanted to eliminate the yardage guessing and tighten our pin gaps with no care for penetration on a 3D target. 8-10% foc and overdraws, we were dang near dry firing our bows. My first broad heads as a teen, before 3D's, were 143gr Razorback 5's and once i started shooting 3D's i was shooting 75gr. cRaZy...
Dude is spot on with his sharpening technique. When I decided to get into traditional archery I had to Learn how to do this because up to that point in my archery hunting I always used "factory sharp" broad heads and there was no need to learn how to sharpen them. Now I mainly use Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts w bleeders for my longbow, recurve, and compound. They are wicked sharp right out of the package and can be "touched up" doing Exactly what Ranch just showed. Great Video!!
Thank you so much for the great content. THP and the Ranch Fairy are providing great information for hunters. I think we as hunters need to take whatever steps necessary to ensure quick ethical kills.
THP, incredible job educating hunters. Hunting is more enjoyable when you get to recover your animal. It’s our responsibility to hunt w sharp blades. Awesome job guys
In the early 90s, at the age of 40 I started bowhunting with my beloved XI Legend Magnum. I got questioned all the time regarding leathality of archery gear. I assured all "My bow will kill anything in the Western hemisphere.". My current bow pumps 50% MORE KE into the arrow than the XI could. Yet I became aware I had problems getting clean pass thru arrows even on good hits. It has mostly been due to using mechanical broadheads.
Yeah I'd love to have a double handful of new Bear Razors. Considering Zwickeys now. I'd modify the end point into a small tanto style like I did on my Bear heads decades ago.
If you can find a sheet of glass or tile, use window film double sided tape to stick your sheets of sandpaper to. (It is thinner than the other stuff giving you a super flat surface. I could see/hear where there were some crumbs under sandpaper created little hills or bumps. That causes the angle to change, dicking up the burr, and you have to sharpen longer. If the paper "rolls " a little wave when pushing, make sure it is stuck down with water or tape!
I use a 12x12 glazed tile and wet my sandpaper to get that ultra edge. The tile also keeps the water where i need it to be amd it makes such a dramatic difference. I can use 1 broadhead to shave with and another as my mirror lol
Excellent information that yall are putting out don't be afraid to put a few broadheads in the bone pile your going to Jack a few up it's no big deal it's part of the learning process after you do it for a bit it will become as simple as a donut with a hole in it good video for sure.
Cause of this video I just placed my order for the proper guide for my setup. Great knowing there are the right tools out there to make everything as elite as it can be
Great video! A couple things that might be helpful to mention to complement what was given here: 1. The stay sharp guide is awesome and the best price you will find on a jig. However, it sharpens at a 22 degree angle. Most single bevels come with 25 degree bevels and that is by design. Dr. Ashby found that a 25 degree bevel gave the best bone-breaking advantage for a single-bevel. I personally don’t know if The 3 degrees makes a difference or not but I thought it was worth mentioning since most of the reason folks shoot single bevel is due to Dr. Ashby’s work in the first place. The KME broadhead jig is adjustable to most factory bevels but will cost an extra 30-40 bucks. There is a trade-off I suppose. 2. StaySharp just made a new jig that will sharpen curved blades like the Maasai for $25. It’s called the type “c”. Looks like a great value at it’s price point.
you are right, especially the Cutthroat. That's why you use a KME or change the angle on the cutthroat using the stay sharp. I have done it, don't like it. If you intend on sharpening or own a single bevel. i'd bypass the stay sharp and spend the money on the KME
C S I agree. StaySharp and KME are both great, American companies that support outdoorsman. There is no arguing that the KME is built with more durable components and is more versatile. That being said, if the StaySharp was built with a 25 degree angle, I would go that route instead. I love that Ron aims to keep the cost down while providing a functional tool.
A lanskey or smith knife sharpening kit will work for the Messai type broadheads. They are designed to sharpen around the drop points of knives, so they work on the curved single bevels (not the Kudu points though)
Glad to see you guys bringing truth that the tv crews can’t afford to. Shooting traditional equipment with 55-65 lb draw bows most of my arrows come in at 650-700 grains. I promise my 650 ish grain arrow at roughly 175 FPS will out penetrate/kill 90% of modern compound hunters setups.
For the strop ive never done a broadhead but all of my wood working knives are insanly sharp! As it was said in the video pressure will roll and edge and itll work best with little to no pressure, the lighter the pressure the sharper itll get when you are on your final few reps on strop.
Great info. The only thing I would add is save a piece of that broken window and use the glass as your flat surface.. I used wet/dry sand paper for years on a piece on glass for sharpening all kinds of blades
It actually is, I bought a cheap knife just for that purpose! My wife gets a lil spooked when I've got all the kitchen blades out and I'm just chilling out sharpening knives 😅
Good Edu vidoe, this reminds me of manualy sharpening hand plane blades. Great stuff! I hand hone my mechanical broad heads, a little tougher with stainless steel, but makes a world of difference. Very very clean pass through penetrating shots with just a little honing, can use an oil or water stone for knife sharpening if on a budget...mind your fingers though.
Wetting the sand paper from a spray bottle of water or Windex will lubricate the homing process AND provide cohesion to adhere the sand paper to your flat surface and prevent buckling and wrinkles in the sandpaper; which will give you a better edge. A pane of glass makes a good flat surface.
Great, I just spent $66 on diafolds cause Troy swore they were the best in another video...now I see he uses $3 sandpaper! If I'd had known this was just as good I would have done it this way! But I DO like the diafolds!
New archer here, I have some whetstones that I use to sharpen kitchen knives. I am wondering if those will work just the same as sandpaper or diamond plates? Thanks for any advice!!
Fantastic video this kind of content is amazing keep up the good work guys! You can really see the difference in the bevel sharpness using that jig I’ll need to get me one of those for my broadheads
Great video. Only flaw I seen was when sharpening on table and said broadhead was not completely contacting paper was most likely due to table not being truly flat. We use ground granite in the machine shop which is probably something most won’t have. But a better substrate base would most likely eliminate having to sand down as much.
I sharpened my fixed 3 bladers last season but this is ridiculous. I'm thinking about Cutthroats or Grizzlystik Samurais. I know, I know, I'm way behind already. My wife wants to go fishing in the morning. It's a narrow bayou through bottomland hardwood and I'm definitely gonna be looking for drinking spots with huge tracks. If I can't get single bevels pulling this year I'm not giving up. Great stuff RF. Thanks THP PS I'm taking off work to go. So the watchers can rest
I would try and use something a little flatter as a base. The oak table with a straight edge across it will have high and low spots. I know this is all you currently have right now, but I recommend a sheet of glass under the sand paper to make sure it's flat as flat!
Good video, but I don't consider them sharp until I strop a hair shaving edge on them. Buffing compound on the inside surface of a cracker box, or rubbing compound on an old belt works wonders. I do my buck knives the same way.
Most broad heads don’t come sharp enough out of the package. I’d feel incompetent if I didn’t touch up my rage heads. Once had a new set of Ulmer Edge not able to cut a rubber band - if I’d trusted them from the package I’d have tortured a deer with a bad wound or slow painful death.
Try using running water over your sandpaper as you sharpen. Preferably use something really flat under the sandpaper, like a glass plate, flat stone plate or such. You will save 90% of your time and sandpaper life will be much, much longer.
Thank you guys for all of the great information!! You guys and the ranch fairy seriously do a great job with explaining and showing all the techniques you do and it’s awesome to learn from you all!
"It doesn't matter how sharp it is in the Quiver. It matters how sharp it is when it hits the opposite shoulder", the Ranch Fairy. Now THAT'S WORDS OF WISDOM !!!!
I can find 1,000 videos that teach people to shoot circles & dots. The Ranch Fairy is the only guy teaching us what it takes to kill animals. He draws a very wide line between archers & bow hunters.
THP and the Ranch Fairy may be the greatest collaboration of all time
Troy rocks, he is teaching people how to truly HUNT responsibly. THP is a good fit with him because they are both working to make all hunters better. What more can we ask for? Thanks guys !
I know it's minor, but an old time knifemaker told me to rotate the head (flip it over) back and forth for the final passes. He said do a countdown- 4 on a side- 4 on the other, then 3, 2 and 1. He said this stops the "tip" from rolling over- like when you finish with 10 on one side only. Just FYI, it works for me.
Get Ranch Fairy to do a "Top 5 Broadhead" video! These collab videos are awesome!
By far 1 of the best sharpening vids ive watched for broadheads. I take it a step further. Instead of doing it on a wood table that has imperfections in height I use a 12x12 porcelain tile with a ultra smooth glaze finish, this eliminates any deviation in the wood. Another advantage to the tile is I can wet the sandpaper and it also helps with polishing. With the jig that was used for the Black Hornets 1/4" out will give you right around the same angle, move it out to 5/16" and you can make the angle shallower which will yield a sharper cutting angle. I go from 600g for a mild reprofile all the way to 12000, then to my strop. I was always told "Broadheads should be so sharp they scare the living shit out of you" This vid was so great I bought both jigs based on this video alone. Only thingbI havent mastered yet is putting a good convex grind on the cutting edge which would be the best of both worlds especially if youre going to utilize a shallower angle.
Ranch Fairy mentioned that the jigs don't necessarily match the existing bevel in the broadhead. There is a certain amount of adjustment built into the jig by adjusting how much broadhead sticks out of the jig. If you're sharpening too far back from the edge, slide the blade deeper into the jig and if you're too much on the edge, slide it out.
Those blades are so stout that even a mildly shallower angle wont hurt them in any way. These blades are nuts, like flying cleavers. I love putting edges on blades :-)
I put a thin coat of Vaseline on the edge of my sharpened broad heads. Air and moisture will dull them a bit over time, so the coating will protect them and keep them sharp longer. The Vaseline will disaepear after the shot.
This was a great show.... I have worked at a tannery for 40 years. We work with cow hides and learn how to sharpen our knives. This show is the truth. You need to work at it! We learned with sandpaper grits also.
Boys! I just bought my Olive Green THP hat! First year scouting ever and I’m 17 years old!! Now that I’m into it, I’m watching all the old deer vids. Keep it up guys. Love y’all. God Bless You
Ranch Fairy slammed it home. The sharper your broadhead is at moment of impact the more it cuts the smaller capillaries, veins, and arteries that are present in your vitals area. The more of them you cut the greater the hemorrhage. The more hemorrhage the greater the animal bleeds. The more the animal bleeds the greater the blood trail and the faster they expire. The faster they expire the more ethical the kill and the easier they are to find for retrieval. It really is a win win all around, but it takes time and patience. It's no replacement for shot placement and knowing your combination's limitations, but do yourself a huge favor and take a little time before your season's opener and get em sharp like they show you here. You'll thank yourself later. Good luck out there and thank you THP and Ranch Fairy for first rate honest content!
Heck yeah the right video this time who else likes hunting public!!!!!
2 of my favorite channels working together I love it thank you.!
I I am so proud of myself because after years of sharpening broadheads the wrong way I finally got it right . I have been watching staysharp guidesTH-cam channel as well as purchasing quite a few of his sharpeners and for the first time in many years I have my broadheads (Cutthroat 150 grain) Beyond Hair popping Sharp.
Great video. I was watching Ranch Fairy before I started watching THP. He has me redoing all my arrows to increase FOC. Good stuff! I started watching THP dureing turkey season this year. THP is the real deal not some TV production. I no longer watch TV all I watch is youtube and every single vid THP has put out. Can't wait till the next one. THP has taught me so much. Love your aggressive hunting style.
This opens my eyes tremendously I went immediately out in my garage not even halfway through this video grabbed my arrows that were in my quiver that I was about to take into the woods next weekend for opener and I'm throwing them in the trash..... I was thinking about buying new g5s but those look a little more difficult to sharpen.
So could u guys also post a high detail video of setting up a arrow with high foc and how u guys did it idc how long it is, It would be great to post a ONE video on how to do it and not 20
Coming soon
Look up the Ashby Theory. Or Listen to Kifaru cast, not sure what episode it is but they go into FOC in great detail. Aron Snyder is the owner of Kifaru and has an unbiased opinion on gear he has no sponsors. As you can tell im a fan Boy. Look him up
yeah I'd like a series on getting into high FOC from start to finish. Including initial bow set up. It's not that most of that info isn't available from ranch fairy, but it's just too much jumping around and it's confusing as heck. Also, RF assumes in his videos that your cam timing, cam lean, etc. are good and your rest and knock point are set correctly, but it would be really helpful to have a video that shows how to diagnose and correct those problems. Many (most?) of us just don't have a local bow shop that is up to getting a bow ready to bareshaft tune with heavy, high FOC arrows. We're on our own.
Ranch Fairy has a comprehensive list of videos on high foc set up
@@paulwakefield5255 "comprehensive list" is an UNDERSTATEMENT LOL
I used this method and Innovative Outdoorsman's jog to sharpen my Black Hornet Set Razors for the first time last night. They are insanely sharp and it only took 10 minutes per head. It should take me 5 minutes next time.
Thanks for the video on sharpening. This is the same system a master cabinet maker showed us in school. His only add to the method was to use a piece of glass about 5x12 on the table under the sand paper. He would ad a few drops of water to the glass and the paper would stick almost like it was glued while running the jig back and forth.
I cannot thank you guys enough for introducing me to Troy. From there I've learned about Dr. Ashby and many others! Great work fellas.
Ranch fairy and the hunting public
My 2 favorite youtube channels!
I’ve been hand sharpening my broadhead for the 30 years. Interesting how other people do it is always informative. You can always learn something new.
To really up your game, get a piece of float glass or a sample of granite countertop. Give it a squirt of window cleaner or Simple Green, put the paper on the wet to stick it down and then spray the paper and go to work. You need a true flat surface to get perfectly sharp results. Any unevenness in the surface under the paper translate up into your edge. Another tip, you don't need the jig. You can do the same thing with a block of wood. For your hunting pack, if you don't want to invest in those DMT sticks, glue the paper on a paint stick. Use a table or a stump, anything reasonably flat and stable, and set the block parallel to the edge. Push the sharpening stick along the wood block and the edge to fix your angle and it works just like the guide. Move the block toward or away from the edge to match the sharpening angle to the broadhead. Woodworkers do this all the time to touch up chisels and plane blades. Trust me, their tools are next level sharp. I file and sharpen axes this way too and they're sharp enough to fillet the paper...not just cut it. Bonus, it'll do those curved heads too and just as easy.
Awesome I love these shows, you guys have taught me a lot, I really can’t wait to get my first one. Love you guys absolutely the best. 👏🏽
Very informative video! The Ranch Fairy did a great job explaining in depth how to sharpen these type heads.
I've got a collection of old Bear, Howard Hill, and many other makes of cut on contact broadheads. Now, I'm gonna have to get a jig, so I can put an edge on them and possibly get the old recurve out this season. Been several years since I've been able to bow hunt due to hand, back, and shoulder injuries. But, this stuff is getting me fired up!
Thanks for taking the time to give us some instruction into sharpening.
Stay safe and travel safe,
Cubby
Amen brother
Always check and do a touch up! I do that before EVERY HUNT 👍🏻
Great video! You guys are the reason I have switched to a single bevel broadhead and arrows with higher FOC. Can’t wait for the fall!
I sharpen knives, tools and broadheads professionally....this guy is awesome!, great video guys!
For the concave heads like the Simmons or the centaur, use paper wheels on a bench grinder. The paper wheel set up will get any 2 blade style heads extremely sharp and will make easy work with the concave heads as well. One wheel is coarse and one will polish the edge. Very simple and fast. Easier than hand sharpening
T-roy ...glad I found this channel..I'm shooting the magnus stinger and the tip is what I need help on..I ordered the grey jig and man it's awesome..could you follow up on just the tip...absolutely a great video..and you sir are what we call here in middle Ga a trip!!.thanks again
Craig!!!
Great vid! I've paid the price for dull fixed blades. Trusted that the G5 Montecs would be sharp out of the package and ended up having really low penetration despite shooting 70# and having pass throughs in the past. Checked the other two that came in the package later and they were way more dull than the ones in this video pre-sharpened. Then went on a quest to bring those to an edge and never could. I think the "Too much pressure and impatience" quote applied to me well.
Seeing those 200 grain broadheads during the House Tour video makes more sense now after watching the wild boar hunt video and this sharpening video. I come from the retail world where the biggest grain broadhead that I saw at Cabela's was 125 grains and thought those are for elk hunters. Although I do remember when my Dad shot a recurve bow they had big Thunderhead style cut on contact blades were 150s in front of aluminum arrows. I have only had 100 grain broadheads (usually G5 Montecs or Stingers) in front of my Cabela's Hunter Extreme 340 grain arrows. I did switch to a mechanical (Dead On Arrival), but like the G5s have not shot them into an animal. So if I understand that right, that is a 440 grain arrow setup out of my old PSE Fire Flite from 2006 that is set at 60 lbs? Like Tony and others say it is about the business end of that arrow and what it is doing and you putting that arrow where it can best do its damage for a humane and quick kill.
The first time that I have ever heard of single bevel broadheads was a couple years ago when Uncle Randy Newberg as some like to call him shot a big Utah bison with his bow using Easton FMJ arrows and 150 grain Bone Broadheads, it went straight through and embedded in the opposite shoulder blade. Pretty epic I say and a good testimony to that old school system making it's comeback.
I will have to ask or see if Tony has on his channel how to resharpen the 3 blade one piece broadheads like the G5 Montecs or the Valkyrie Jagger or Blood Eagle (they're a long shuttle type design) broadheads. Those sharpening jigs might work depending on the angle.
I know from watching a lot of bladesmithing/sword/knifemaking videos and TV shows that using many levels of grit sandpaper or belts is how they make those blades super razor sharp. Hand sanding a 10-30 inch blade takes time and patience using similar techniques to this. My Dad always said that the most useless thing one could bring into the woods is a dull knife and in this case dull broadheads. Thanks for sharing.
This is one of the most important videos you've ever posted. Most people don't know what sharp actually is, and this is a great easy way to get there. Im so glad you guys partnered up with Troy. These are great videos for the off season.
I bought a lansky knife sharpener kit years ago. It allows me to sharpen different angles and rounded blades. 17deg 20deg 25deg (what I use for virtually every edged tool) and 30 deg.
To the question I saw earlier to sharpen the tip on tanto style tips you can rotate the lansky stones just a bit to sharpen the tips. I've reprofiled my zwickey eskimos to have tanto tips.
Great video guys. Such good info. When I started bowhunting almost 50 years ago sharpening broadheads was the norm. Then replaceable blades made us all lazy. Thanks THP and Ranch Fairy.
I like the WISCONSIN shirt, Jake. Way to represent!
This gets me excited for bow season! Definitely trying some of those broadheads
This is an excellent video for people like myself just learning how to sharpen, thanks very much,
I have watched this video every time I stick a arrow in the ground 😂 Thank You Ranch Fairy for making my broadheads last me all season.
This video is incredible... It should be a staple within bowhunting classes across the country.
Just received my DMT Diafold last night. Already revived half my knives to 80%, thanks for the tips!
This has to be the best video I have watched on sharpening broadheads. Thanks guys.
I think 3D shoots changed the industry for quite a while and now we are getting back to what works. With 3D we wanted to eliminate the yardage guessing and tighten our pin gaps with no care for penetration on a 3D target. 8-10% foc and overdraws, we were dang near dry firing our bows. My first broad heads as a teen, before 3D's, were 143gr Razorback 5's and once i started shooting 3D's i was shooting 75gr. cRaZy...
Dude is spot on with his sharpening technique. When I decided to get into traditional archery I had to Learn how to do this because up to that point in my archery hunting I always used "factory sharp" broad heads and there was no need to learn how to sharpen them. Now I mainly use Magnus Stinger Buzzcuts w bleeders for my longbow, recurve, and compound. They are wicked sharp right out of the package and can be "touched up" doing Exactly what Ranch just showed. Great Video!!
Thank you so much for the great content. THP and the Ranch Fairy are providing great information for hunters. I think we as hunters need to take whatever steps necessary to ensure quick ethical kills.
So true
You guys overwhelmed the innovative sportsman the power of hunting public and the ranch fairy supporting the small guy 👍👍
This is such great stuff. Definitely going to do my broad heads this week! Thanks for the great info!
THP, incredible job educating hunters. Hunting is more enjoyable when you get to recover your animal. It’s our responsibility to hunt w sharp blades. Awesome job guys
Funny how the broadheads are coming back around to the tried and true fred bear broadheads
So true! Back in the day of heavy aluminum arrows we had high FOC and didn't even know it
In the early 90s, at the age of 40 I started bowhunting with my beloved XI Legend Magnum. I got questioned all the time regarding leathality of archery gear. I assured all "My bow will kill anything in the Western hemisphere.". My current bow pumps 50% MORE KE into the arrow than the XI could. Yet I became aware I had problems getting clean pass thru arrows even on good hits. It has mostly been due to using mechanical broadheads.
Yeah I'd love to have a double handful of new Bear Razors. Considering Zwickeys now. I'd modify the end point into a small tanto style like I did on my Bear heads decades ago.
@@Bowbender8 I had the same bow. Myles Keller edition. Loved that thing. Still have it and shoot it every so often.
100%. Still have a few of my hunting box. I like the concave Simmons sharks, But the Fred bear will kill anything on earth
Thank-you for the lesson. Will stop being lazy and take it to the "next level"...
If you can find a sheet of glass or tile, use window film double sided tape to stick your sheets of sandpaper to. (It is thinner than the other stuff giving you a super flat surface. I could see/hear where there were some crumbs under sandpaper created little hills or bumps. That causes the angle to change, dicking up the burr, and you have to sharpen longer.
If the paper "rolls " a little wave when pushing, make sure it is stuck down with water or tape!
I use a 12x12 glazed tile and wet my sandpaper to get that ultra edge. The tile also keeps the water where i need it to be amd it makes such a dramatic difference. I can use 1 broadhead to shave with and another as my mirror lol
I am the 1000th like. I would love to try a cut on contact broadhead as I recently moved to higher FoC arrows this year because of your videos.
Excellent information that yall are putting out don't be afraid to put a few broadheads in the bone pile your going to Jack a few up it's no big deal it's part of the learning process after you do it for a bit it will become as simple as a donut with a hole in it good video for sure.
Cause of this video I just placed my order for the proper guide for my setup. Great knowing there are the right tools out there to make everything as elite as it can be
Great video! A couple things that might be helpful to mention to complement what was given here:
1. The stay sharp guide is awesome and the best price you will find on a jig. However, it sharpens at a 22 degree angle. Most single bevels come with 25 degree bevels and that is by design. Dr. Ashby found that a 25 degree bevel gave the best bone-breaking advantage for a single-bevel. I personally don’t know if The 3 degrees makes a difference or not but I thought it was worth mentioning since most of the reason folks shoot single bevel is due to Dr. Ashby’s work in the first place. The KME broadhead jig is adjustable to most factory bevels but will cost an extra 30-40 bucks. There is a trade-off I suppose.
2. StaySharp just made a new jig that will sharpen curved blades like the Maasai for $25. It’s called the type “c”. Looks like a great value at it’s price point.
you are right, especially the Cutthroat. That's why you use a KME or change the angle on the cutthroat using the stay sharp. I have done it, don't like it.
If you intend on sharpening or own a single bevel. i'd bypass the stay sharp and spend the money on the KME
C S I agree. StaySharp and KME are both great, American companies that support outdoorsman. There is no arguing that the KME is built with more durable components and is more versatile. That being said, if the StaySharp was built with a 25 degree angle, I would go that route instead. I love that Ron aims to keep the cost down while providing a functional tool.
@@treyhedrick3346 I agree. Add another angle and I'd buy it. The stay sharp is easy
A lanskey or smith knife sharpening kit will work for the Messai type broadheads. They are designed to sharpen around the drop points of knives, so they work on the curved single bevels (not the Kudu points though)
What about tanto tip
The traditional archery community is beaming with pride.
Glad to see you guys bringing truth that the tv crews can’t afford to. Shooting traditional equipment with 55-65 lb draw bows most of my arrows come in at 650-700 grains. I promise my 650 ish grain arrow at roughly 175 FPS will out penetrate/kill 90% of modern compound hunters setups.
For the strop ive never done a broadhead but all of my wood working knives are insanly sharp! As it was said in the video pressure will roll and edge and itll work best with little to no pressure, the lighter the pressure the sharper itll get when you are on your final few reps on strop.
This is a great video. Definitely thankful for the wisdom and dedication. My blades will now be the first thing I worry about. Thank you!!
Great video. Got Sirius Apollo test kit on the way. Trying to decide between Magnus and Tuffhead.
Great info. The only thing I would add is save a piece of that broken window and use the glass as your flat surface.. I used wet/dry sand paper for years on a piece on glass for sharpening all kinds of blades
Thank you guys so much for sharing this information! Just one more reason you have the best hunting channel EVER!!!!!
I use nothing but Magnus Broadheads. Absolutely the best imo!
Need to get a set of stones and learn how to sharpen on those. It's great and relaxing.
It actually is, I bought a cheap knife just for that purpose! My wife gets a lil spooked when I've got all the kitchen blades out and I'm just chilling out sharpening knives 😅
I don't say this often but I love this man!
Good Edu vidoe, this reminds me of manualy sharpening hand plane blades. Great stuff! I hand hone my mechanical broad heads, a little tougher with stainless steel, but makes a world of difference. Very very clean pass through penetrating shots with just a little honing, can use an oil or water stone for knife sharpening if on a budget...mind your fingers though.
Super informative video guys thank you and the ranch fairy. Looks like I need to switch from an out of the box 1 and done to a reusable broadhead.
Wetting the sand paper from a spray bottle of water or Windex will lubricate the homing process AND provide cohesion to adhere the sand paper to your flat surface and prevent buckling and wrinkles in the sandpaper; which will give you a better edge.
A pane of glass makes a good flat surface.
Great, I just spent $66 on diafolds cause Troy swore they were the best in another video...now I see he uses $3 sandpaper! If I'd had known this was just as good I would have done it this way! But I DO like the diafolds!
Great video on the most important part of archery hunting. Thanks THP
New archer here, I have some whetstones that I use to sharpen kitchen knives. I am wondering if those will work just the same as sandpaper or diamond plates? Thanks for any advice!!
Yes, they will.
Great information!! I have always sharpened my broadhead blades.
Good stuff!
Fantastic video this kind of content is amazing keep up the good work guys! You can really see the difference in the bevel sharpness using that jig I’ll need to get me one of those for my broadheads
Thanks for the tips. Just ordered a jig.
Now that Jake has been professionally trained. He should be the Master Sharpener for THP. 😁
This is a fantastic learning video. Thanks very much
I hope to see more hog hunts in the near future with you guys and the fairy.
I'm camping out in the tent with the kids tonight. Just heard Aaron doing his owl call. Sounds really good. You sounded really close.
Great video. Only flaw I seen was when sharpening on table and said broadhead was not completely contacting paper was most likely due to table not being truly flat. We use ground granite in the machine shop which is probably something most won’t have. But a better substrate base would most likely eliminate having to sand down as much.
I use glass plates for this style of sharpening. Super flat.
🙌🏹 thank you for listening to the requests!!
I bought the Maasai just this morning. Glad this came out today!!!
#1 Phillips on magnus stingers
I sharpened my fixed 3 bladers last season but this is ridiculous. I'm thinking about Cutthroats or Grizzlystik Samurais. I know, I know, I'm way behind already. My wife wants to go fishing in the morning. It's a narrow bayou through bottomland hardwood and I'm definitely gonna be looking for drinking spots with huge tracks. If I can't get single bevels pulling this year I'm not giving up. Great stuff RF. Thanks THP
PS I'm taking off work to go. So the watchers can rest
Awesome vid guys..thanks!
Ranch fairy is the man!
I would try and use something a little flatter as a base. The oak table with a straight edge across it will have high and low spots. I know this is all you currently have right now, but I recommend a sheet of glass under the sand paper to make sure it's flat as flat!
Another good backer is a 12 by 12 granite tile from home depot. I put 4 different grits with spray adhesive and just rotate the tile.
Good video, but I don't consider them sharp until I strop a hair shaving edge on them. Buffing compound on the inside surface of a cracker box, or rubbing compound on an old belt works wonders. I do my buck knives the same way.
This is my second year bow hunting and I've never thought to sharpen my broad heads.
Honestly I’d rather buy new ones. They’re not that expensive. I shoot allens.
If you’re discovering sharpening in your 2nd year and you give it a shot you’ll be leaps ahead of the game brother
Most broad heads don’t come sharp enough out of the package. I’d feel incompetent if I didn’t touch up my rage heads. Once had a new set of Ulmer Edge not able to cut a rubber band - if I’d trusted them from the package I’d have tortured a deer with a bad wound or slow painful death.
Truth, most broadheads out of the package aren’t sharp enough
Thank you Ranch Fairy! You have gotten me off my fear of single bevel sharpening!
Try using running water over your sandpaper as you sharpen. Preferably use something really flat under the sandpaper, like a glass plate, flat stone plate or such. You will save 90% of your time and sandpaper life will be much, much longer.
that's good old school stuff right there thanks
This video was so helpful. Thanks guys
New bowhunter here, Ranch fairy really, really, knows his shit.
Jake reminds me of Mark Appleyard. One of the steeziest skaters of all time.
Love this great info THP! Keep the good stuff coming. Cant wait to see Warb go elk hunting later this year and put this knowledge to good use.
Thank you guys for all of the great information!! You guys and the ranch fairy seriously do a great job with explaining and showing all the techniques you do and it’s awesome to learn from you all!
Excellent Excellent video.
I feel like he could really benefit from a leather strop also I feel like he could make bigger jumps in grit but all in all those look damn sharp
I was thinking the same thing. Leather strop with some white compound, whoooooo, that would shave a knats nutsack
He did strop it. That thing is a bone busting scalpel. GnatScaping??
Did you miss the part where he did that and showed and talked about how to?
Nicely done! Thanks guys