Fiberglassing A Composite Boat Transom! Start to Finish!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
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I've got a question that I havent been able to find online anywhere I have looked. I am considering repowering my 24 foot strendrive aluminium boat with a bracketed outboard. An was wondering how much wood you would have to build up on the transom to accommodate a bracket and outboard. Any advice would be greatly appreciated👍
Could you possible do a video on transom repair when both sides of transom are cracked and damaged? Also is there any videos on stringer replacement?
@@aussiefluffbutt4627 my dad did his. Transom it was 3”measured through the drain plug hole JT
@@aussiefluffbutt4627 also check out Fresico boater he did a sea ray it might help you JT
@@williamthompson2908 frisco boater did a sea ray complete biottom that should help you if your still looking JT
I still learn a lot hanging around boat shops in Florida. You guys have way more experience than the fresh water guys. Seen a Florida guy only replace a 1 foot section of transom on a bass boat right where the engine sits that blew me away. The workmanship was very good and neat. He also did it from the inside.
I like the zigzag cut. I always used straight cuts, your method will displace the stress. Awesome!
Acrylic Aaron for sure. I did my center console dash in black and it looks great!
That’s a big job. It takes a bit of planning to pull it off successfully.
It's so important to mix the mekt properly. That includes scraping the sides of the bucket while mixing. The reason why he's getting away with it is that he is mixing and stirring in the mekt every time he uses the roller. If you are working from a bucket, stir the mekt thoroughly. Nothing worse than resin that does not cure.
You are the greatest boat repairer expert!
Great job I just want to jump in their and start rolling you make it looks so easy 👍🏼
I love starboard I have used and 7 years still satisfied
👍👍 for acrylic!
Great video as always, come on next Tuesday...
That's a nice tent to work in.. great video! Cheers!
Thanks Steve!! Awesome video Aaron always heard about Coosa board for transoms on the boat forum I'm on but never seen it installed
You make it look and sound easy.. cheers!
Wish I would have seen this earlier. And add a vote to use Kevlar over fiberglass. And Kevlar more into the design. It is more expensive, but man will it increase strength without adding much weight. Nice video. Learned a bunch. Love your channel.
Take two couple years ago I made my own dash piece that holds in all my buttons and center counsel gauges and nice turned out great sure nice not to worry about rot used cutting boards you know the plastic like cutting boards worked great
Acrylic! I've used Boat Outfitters as well and they are great!
You make hard work look easy! Wish I had 1/4 of your skillz.
Excellent work!!
A comes a dash I made my own several years ago best thing I ever did takes a little bit of thinking to get it right but once you do it’s so nice that you don’t have no more sag or rot
Really excellent tutorial! Thanks! 😊
Definitely do an acrylic dashboard. BTW Boatoutfitters is awesome and they will cut, shape and bend anything for you!
acrylic dash for sure, it would look amazing in black
It’s interesting to see the process of fixing fiberglass boats. All I work on up here at the Great Lakes is aluminum boats. That’s all a little different. And not as dusty to work on lol
Thanks for all the info. I've been enjoying all your videos. I would like to see acrylic on the dash.
Almost everyone who are doing this are not using enough resin like this dude.
That's a great job!
Impressive work! Love these how to's. keep it up.
Thanks a lot!
Great video and thanks for taking the time. You got us going in the right direction... thanks again...
Glad to help
Great video. Very informative I am just about to start my first restoration of a 25 foot starcraft islander aluminum boat up here in ohio.
Soap stone my friend soap stone!!! Marks perfect on black.
Fantastic video!
way down on the thread Marine Connection Liquidators been there I was like a kid in the biggest candy store on the planet. They sell stainless hardware by the pound my biggest regret not buying more. Just everything under the sun for boating loved that store.
NICE JOB! Great instruction, you guys are true pros
Thank you!
Awesome brother. And thank u for the lesson on how to.👍
Great job...Thanks for sharing
Man that is a lot of information on fiberglassing. Enjoyed the video! I'm voting acrylic.
a lot of BAD information...
Informative, educational, professional and admirable! Love the video.
Thanks to the steve letting u use his place
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice work 👍
The trick to that rib roller is to go very patiently slowly with it from the center to edges pushing out the air, painstakingly, because otherwise if you just roll around fast you are only pushing air bubbles around. Great video though. You may want to make less resin to accommodate the time it takes to rib roll slowly.
Amazing, you are a great teacher!
nice, we did this all the time at hinckley.
When trying to get all the air out, I use a bondo spreader. Run it across the fiberglass gently and it will push out the air and soak the resin into the glass.
Great video makes me want to give a try the organisation appears to be the key as in most tasks.😉👍
Thank you! Yes, it's definitely in the organization for sure!
Nice Job! I would have suggested that rather than the screws to pull the transom together (2 layers of coosa plus existing inside fiberglass transom) I believe you would have achieved best contact with Machine screws with washers and nuts to draw everything together tight.
he should star whit matt first that the wowing. he need to use Q cell on polyester . not epoxy powder. he need to have perfectly wet glass before adding a second layer of glass . to much air on the glass brother .. u did the right steps. good job doing it by ur self . alot of work ..
Need to learn offset scribing. More exact and a time saver.
Great Video! My son and I just finished rebuilding the transom, on our old project boat. We made a video on our channel for a series were we will be fixing up the boat to brand new, and saving money while doing it.
👍 for acrylic!
I’m interested in seeing what acrylic would look like. Cheers from Bradenton.
It would be cool having a semy round dash board fancy
Nice job on the teaching side👍👊
Yes
silver sharpie for marking on coosa board!!!! you should really look into laminating polyester resin for this type of work i have found it to make stronger bonds!!!!
I think I would cut the top caps off so I could I could put in bend in more and thinner layers of Coosa board without having to cut them. Alternatively more thinner layers with staggered cuts, locations and angles. Perhaps removing the inside glass wall leaving the outer hull intact. Bevel out the stringers for access and fit in a wedge later. I would have formed a fillet inside at bottom, sides and stringer junctions to allow several layers of glass to tie in and out of those adjacent surfaces.
Removing the inside glass leaving the outside intact and being able to access 100% of the inside surface must be the best way. At least that is how I do it. cut out the inside glass and remove the old plywood and sand everything.
Remove all traces of edges from the inside of the old glass. Then cut the Coosa board or plywood to a good enough size with some gaps around it. Drill many holes, about every 2" in it to help excess resin and air to move out. Saturate all layers and put in at least 2 layers of mat between the old glass and the new board plus additional mats between the plywood or coosa board and use big clamps. If done right there will be no air or excess resin left. After some curing, sand and clean all surfaces, fill the gaps arround the edges and lay on the mats. I thought that was how everyone did it. Perhaps I am doing it wrong...
I am trying to understand why anyone would cut the outside of the hull 😱and leave the inside intact. Also how to get the air out of the corners with parts of the outside still in place 🤔
Regarding your instrument cluster. Remove those black faceplates and think about making a curved dash out of fiberglass and blend it it to the deck color or hull color. You could get technical and make little eyelids to shade the glass faces on a sunny day. Oh and don't forget the purple LEDs.
Excellent video showing a lot of great ideas and I would also take on board a lot of the comments of the other viewers here as well because some of them have some really good points collectively it would produce an extremely good result taking on board all of this.
This is crazy I've never worked on boat glassing. But have worked with specialty glassing for many years. The process looks right but your laminating job is lacking. The fiber should fully soak the resin. When bonding you should use a more viscous resin so its thicker and hold to gravity so when they are clamped or screwed together the resin can ooze out. Alot like bonding two piece's of wood with wood glue. Any air is a weak spot that will spread. Only a matter of time.
great video
It looks to me as the 2” strip left from the old transom is about all that’s holding the transom in. None of the layers of glass were tied into the original glass.
he did push/lock it into the corner edges, another layer of cusa or marine ply going to the edge on the inside would have made me sleep better at night though.
My original thought was to do Acrylic on the dashboard but after thinking @boutit more you should do Starboard as that is. Probably be more of a DIYer choice because of its availability Etc that’s what I’ve been using mostly over the last 20 years btw We have a local distributor that offers free delivery and pretty decent pricing to a commercial business I was in the CustomWoodworking field and I found out my local sign guy got the same deal I did on Starboard and his shop was real close to my marina although if I got it at my shop it was easy for me to breakdown large sheets into more manageable sizes due to having a full Woodworking shop for me to use sometimes I would do my cut list and machine everything at home
Fantastic
Ok, this settles it. You ARE the most talented boat-guy on the planet! .... I hope one day, before I "assume room temperature", to meet you and say 'thank you', in person... As an old dude, I love learning new stuff, and this is the TH-cam channel to learn from!
Hahah Thank you! Lol on the room temperature comment, I've never heard that put that way lol. Maybe one day! Anything is possible :) We definitely try to make the videos as helpful and educational as possible :)
Cardboard is the ultimate money saver that no one appreciates lol. I use that stuff all the time!!!
Pre saturate each piece of fiberglass prior to installation on your next project. This will ensure each piece has as much resin as it can hold.
You might encounter delimitation in the future with dry glass.
Good luck!
For marking the Coosa you can try gypsym chalk markers, typically used to mark out bare steel. It will mark up white so you can see your line. Just a thought.
Thank you!
Dude that's some work...
Coosa boards some really nice stuff. I wish it was a little cheaper though I did a complete Bumble bee bass boat rebuild with coosa and it was almost to expensive.
I use a red sharpie worked great for me
Nice!
My vote is for acrylic on dash 👌👌
I just did my ranger transom with 2 in coosa and routed the edges of it so that I didn’t have to cut coosa to fit it in and was able to get it in keeping it all one piece then glassed and faired it
Boss.sampan ni panjang brapa kaki??lebar dan tingi?
FYI, you should Google resin bound fibreglass repairs. The strength of the fibreglass repair comes from the matting itself, not the resin. By adding too much resin it actually makes the process more brittle and it wouldn't be the first boat to be condemned because of resin bound fiberglass...
Great video. Very informative. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
coosa rep suggested [me] to drill 1 inch holes on the smaller piece and epoxy/resin together. that allows the epoxy/resin to evenly spread. imo cutting the top gunnel to slide the transom as one unit w/have been best. nice haircut
PARABENS MUITO BOM O VIDEO, ESTOU APRENDENDO MUITO! INCRITO E LIKEADO
Another great instructional video! I haven’t got a boat of my own yet, and when I do finally get one, it will have to be a project in order to be feasible. Your videos have certainly increased my confidence in the areas where my skills are deficient to non-existent, and they’ve reinforced the knowledge and skills that I already possess. Thank you very much for being so thorough!
Awesome! Thank you! You will be able to handle any project you get, it's more a matter of how long will it take and how much will it cost :/ lol
Born Again Boating That’s what I was afraid of, lol!
Amazing you didn’t know about boat outfitters
Yeah, they seem to be a pretty big company lol maybe I should leave the island every couple of years and get out more lol
Aaron acrylic just to get more info my 82 wellcraft Sportsman has starboard dash good job on transom I did little bit on mine in 2010 but time to do hole thing now
I don't know much about fiberglass, but air pockets this big? Good luck with that transom lasting...
Acrylic! for sure , maybe bring it out a touch to make it flat to make more room for MFDs
After renewing the transom, do we really need to strengthening the boat hull with wood rib to strengthening the boat safety from cracking?
First off great video. BTW you can get white or silver sharpies for drawing the outline on darker materials. Secondly safety procedures for handling the fiberglass mat like gloves, glasses, and a mask. Also MEK-P is nicknamed Methyl Ethyl Death in the safety industry since it’s an an organic peroxide - unstable, explosive, and not nice to your body- irritant, fatal if inhaled or ingested….SDS are your friend….keep up the good work on these vids!
I was thinking the same 😂😅
I'm watching this video for the third time! I just love how easy you make this project look. As a fiberglass newbie I appreciate your guidance. I did a transom just like this on my 1968 Chriscraft 23 Commander and I can tell you that it's not as easy as it looks here but armed with your help it came out as good as yours. I used plywood instead of Coosa because I was on a bit of a budget. Also, it's so nice to see a professional using polyester resin and not that damned epoxy. Polyester is what was used in building the boat in the first place and in my opinion that's what should be used in a major repair such as this. Epoxy is great stuff and has it's place but too brittle for boat building. Keep up the good work!
I work from the inside leaving the outer glass 6 layers glass than ply forced into the wet glass than 6 layers of glass than a smaller piece of ply short of sides and upper edge pyramid style huge amount of strength no air.
How do you do all that before it sets up?
I have used a lot of coosa board on repair projects, when cutting the sheet in half as you did, the idea is to make a key hole pattern cut, not just a wavy line. The keyhole will lock the pieces together. I have made many straight cuts through coosa and laid it side by side with no problem. It somewhat depends on where the board is used and under what type of load is on it. The biggest issue I see people make with any core material is failure to wet it and the repair area out thoroughly with unthickened resin with adequate thickened resin for bedding the core. I see Post concerning using Matt and epoxy resin,as long as it is stitch mat(no binder) it works very well , such as in 1708 . 1708 is great stuff, I see you used roving, it is very
strong. You can use the roving and 1708 together , just flip the mat side toward the roving and use epoxy resin with no problems.
Awesome! Thank you for the info. You can probably tell, I'm not the best fiberglass guy in town lol I can get the job done, but it's not something that I do everyday, and this is only my 4th transom, so I'm definitely no expert! So, thank you for the tips! They are much appreciated :)
Rule number one .... Do not trap air between layers of materal. !!!!
Great video. Can you share the approximate cost of the material (board, glass and resin) NOT including tools and time? thanks
Nice work. One suggestion instead of trying to hammer the two side pieces out into your thickened epoxy. I like to cut my boards with a light taper like a wedge. You can then slide the center section down and it wedges the two side pieces out into place and everything will be supper tight.
It looked like it was purely polyester resin and not epoxy. Thickened un-reinforced polyester seems like such a bad idea.
I was thinking the same point and then you could use some filler at the bottom if it didn't travel all the way down and trim it off at the top
Was there no place in Florida where you could buy non folded fiberglass sheet? Those folds weaken the fiber.
I would like to see you convert a Euro / Open transom boat into a closed with a Bracket. Its a future project I want to do on a 32' Regulator.
Matt before woven. And don’t spare the resin
still convinced, welding and fab of aluminum is for me. Just amazed that will hold a big 4-stroke, 4 feet away on a bracket, jumping waves. Never seems strong enough to me.
The methods in the video were atrocious. Fiberglass work done correctly is immensely strong, but the boat repair in the vid will be suspect from day one.
@@Resistculturaldecline don't care. seen bolts and washers pulling thru and gaps between brackets and transoms before. Even new, it all has such leverage and torque on it. I'm amazed. I'm more into 1/2'' alloy plate. Have no opinion on the work done. Would never do, or want to do myself.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing I certainly hear what you're saying. In our hobby some of our hulls are 400lbs bare but most are 550-600lbs. 20'1" hull length and use 24" set back in some applications but most setbacks are 10"-14" with v6 up to 600hp with full kill builds.
Some of these hulls were used as marathon racers on the Mississippi River and ran for thousands of miles over 100mph across chop, over the course of decades. But nothing like ocean swells. Lot of whitecaps with the occasional cargo barge wakes to negotiate.
We don't get the impact of continuouly clearing big air like fast ocean rigs, our abuse is gazillions of jackhammer shock and material fatigue. We haven't found an aluminum yet to resist the fatigue. We have aluminum or steel in the transom in a fabbed grid pattern but it's not to necessarily give panel strength much as to prevent compression from over zealots wrench turners.
We've broken jackplates and engine clamp brackets, broken bolts, even some exhaust housings, seats, etc. but not one single transom has let go since 1988 after leaving wood. 95% of these transoms even after 30 years don't have one single stress crack.
Aluminum structure can be made very strong, they just get real heavy before they do. Aluminum also has a lot of fatigue if flexed repeatedly, so long as it thick enough and gusseted enough to not move at all. But the dynamic shock not absorbed in one area, get transferred down the line into one thing or another.
Same here.
You know, that's something that we really don't see a lot of down here, or well not where we are at least. I think I've only seen a couple of totally aluminum or steel boats come into the marina in almost a decade! lol
Acrylic I think would be nicer than starboard on a console
Super the best
Good call on using Coosa board. My personal opinion is wood has no place in a boat unless it’s furniture or trim, not structural. Pressure or chemically treated wood has low adherence to polyesters or epoxy. Wood does what it supposed to do decompose or keep boat yards busy.
I wish you posted more videos throughout the week
If I could afford an editor that might be possible :) lol
Viewers of this process should also look at the youtube channel "Boatworks Today"
Thickened epoxy would have been stronger to bond the coosa boards together
Save this for the professionals you might be disappointed great video keep them coming
Is this mixture of resin and silica a good compound to bond floor to stringers? If not what is the best way to do this??
You never keep apply glass when there are clearly dry fibers.