I just replaced left cat on my 2013 JK and I didn't have to take the drive shaft off. You have to rotate the cat upside down when taking it out and when going back in you install it upside down and then when halfway in you rotate it right side up. I was able to do it by myself also. Bit of warning: I broke both upper bolts and had to extract them which was excruciatingly and painstakingly slow! Your video did serve very instructional! Thanks for posting!!
@@rogercueto ok cool.. just replaced the passenger side today, going to tackle driver side tomorrow. Looks like I have to unbolt a heat shield to remove the old one, still looks like a tight squeeze tho.
@@Berserker4999 make sure you soak it with WD-40 or Kroil or Mouse Milk for a couple of days. One of the two bolts that goes on the block broke off on me and I had to easy out the bolt. But if it's welded in because of the heat your only option is to heat it with a torch before you start. Start by turning it slow, if it doesn't loosen by a quarter turn where you don't feel a lot of resistance, then you're in the clear. If you still have a lot of resistance by a quarter turn, then it's frozen and you're gonna bust the heat off. Good luck!
Your video ended before you got it bolted all the way up to the engine. I am having the same problem as you, trying to get it sit flush after it fits into the bottom bracket. Did you just start tightening the bolts and pull it in at the top?
I am taking the heads off my 2014; in Newfoundland, on salty roads, the bolt heads are completely corroded. I have tried everything, so I have to resort to grinding them off.
A note to NY state residents: You're not supposed to use only EPA certified catalytic converters on your car, it has to be CARB compliant. Rockauto only sells EPA ones (CARB stands for California Air Resources Board). And they are MUCH more expensive. But as long as your CHECK ENGINE light goes out, it will pass inspection!
You can drive with a bad CAT until you have to take it for emissions, then you will need a new CAT to get the check engine light to go away. Dirty combustion air => Upstream O2 sensor senses how dirty it is => bad CAT tries "clean" dirty combustion air => downstream O2 sensor registers your CAT has loss efficiency => CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. So it only affects what comes out of your engine and into the atmosphere. As far as I can tell it has affected nothing on my vehicle, mileage or HP. The only issue with your check engine staying on because of a bad CAT is that you won't know if your engine is throwing off additional codes.
I just replaced left cat on my 2013 JK and I didn't have to take the drive shaft off. You have to rotate the cat upside down when taking it out and when going back in you install it upside down and then when halfway in you rotate it right side up. I was able to do it by myself also. Bit of warning: I broke both upper bolts and had to extract them which was excruciatingly and painstakingly slow! Your video did serve very instructional! Thanks for posting!!
Thanks for watching, I'm glad the video helped.
Left cat as in passenger side? Or are you talking about driver side?
@@Berserker4999 left as in driver's side
@@rogercueto ok cool.. just replaced the passenger side today, going to tackle driver side tomorrow. Looks like I have to unbolt a heat shield to remove the old one, still looks like a tight squeeze tho.
@@Berserker4999 make sure you soak it with WD-40 or Kroil or Mouse Milk for a couple of days. One of the two bolts that goes on the block broke off on me and I had to easy out the bolt. But if it's welded in because of the heat your only option is to heat it with a torch before you start. Start by turning it slow, if it doesn't loosen by a quarter turn where you don't feel a lot of resistance, then you're in the clear. If you still have a lot of resistance by a quarter turn, then it's frozen and you're gonna bust the heat off. Good luck!
Your video ended before you got it bolted all the way up to the engine. I am having the same problem as you, trying to get it sit flush after it fits into the bottom bracket. Did you just start tightening the bolts and pull it in at the top?
I am taking the heads off my 2014; in Newfoundland, on salty roads, the bolt heads are completely corroded. I have tried everything, so I have to resort to grinding them off.
Would have been nice to actually see the entire install
A note to NY state residents: You're not supposed to use only EPA certified catalytic converters on your car, it has to be CARB compliant. Rockauto only sells EPA ones (CARB stands for California Air Resources Board). And they are MUCH more expensive.
But as long as your CHECK ENGINE light goes out, it will pass inspection!
How long can you drive with a bad catalytic converter ?? If engine code for it just came on?
You can drive with a bad CAT until you have to take it for emissions, then you will need a new CAT to get the check engine light to go away. Dirty combustion air => Upstream O2 sensor senses how dirty it is => bad CAT tries "clean" dirty combustion air => downstream O2 sensor registers your CAT has loss efficiency => CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. So it only affects what comes out of your engine and into the atmosphere. As far as I can tell it has affected nothing on my vehicle, mileage or HP. The only issue with your check engine staying on because of a bad CAT is that you won't know if your engine is throwing off additional codes.
Did it end up fixing your problem or was it another issue?
Yes Sir it did fix the issue
California inspection won't pass non CARB cat converter
Bank 1 correct?
Correct
Nope...driver side is bank 2.
Is this an EASTERN cat from rock auto, and how has it held up since you installed it?
Chris Brown Hello Chris, at 4:13 you can see the invoice and it’s a Walker I believe. It has held up just great no issue. Thanks for watching
3 years later just wanted to see if the walker has been holding up well for you?
Any updates?
Looks super easy, probably a 5 minute job with a cheap set of tools
Plan on spending the whole day FYI