That thinset is overkill for that application. But if you have the budget, go for it. Those levelling clips are the pricier, and more time consuming version. The wedges are fine, and more readily available. Most 12x24 tile manufacturers will recommend against staggering your tile with a 50% offset like that. if there are peaks and valleys in the floor, a 1/3 offset will hide the peak or valley, and keep tile edges beside each other from being too high or too low. For DIY applications, it would be best to first dry fit (without using any thinset) your entire floor first. Especially if it is an irregular shape. Pay attention to your grout line size, and make sure you aren't laying out the tiles too close to each other. Then, take up the dry fit tiles starting from the doorway into the room working in sections or zones that are within arms reach. These will be the zones that you spread your thinset to. Keep track of which tiles go where, usually putting them in a stack against a wall and in order of right to left, front to back. Use a marker on your underlayment to trace the tile footprint each time you take up a 'zone.' Using a marker on the floor, or on the bottom inch of a wall to mark where grout lines are supposed to be will also help to keep things in the exact spot you dry fit them in. Doing it this way means you don't have to be making cuts while your thinset is drying out in the bucket. It also means you can walk on the tile while you are dry fitting them, which you cant do when you are setting them.
Lot of good tips here, I did the full cut and dry fit and dry erase marker on each one (tape with sharpie would work well too and not rub off as easily). The 50% offset is usually fine for porcelain tile, the reason for not doing 50% is if the tiles aren't flat and are more likely to cause lippage which is usually the case with ceramic tile. Don't forget to look at patterns on tile and mix it up, mix up batches too. Invest in the proper tile cutting tools to make the best edges (if they are visible) and not have issues cutting smaller pieces / weird corner pieces and whatnot. I have a great wet tile saw with a new blade, large 24" tile cutter, diamond angle grinder cutting disc, etc.
its not level its smooth level your first coarse both ways that means using a level torpedo 2footer whatever then use clips since the floor has not been prepped with mud, check with torpedo level every once in a while while tiling
You are witnessing a STAR!
Heat! Props!
This angle is your 💰
You are the best
Thanks winni i like the margin trowel idea to stop the adhesive from going up the sides and i will be back buttering that size tile from now on
That thinset is overkill for that application. But if you have the budget, go for it. Those levelling clips are the pricier, and more time consuming version. The wedges are fine, and more readily available. Most 12x24 tile manufacturers will recommend against staggering your tile with a 50% offset like that. if there are peaks and valleys in the floor, a 1/3 offset will hide the peak or valley, and keep tile edges beside each other from being too high or too low. For DIY applications, it would be best to first dry fit (without using any thinset) your entire floor first. Especially if it is an irregular shape. Pay attention to your grout line size, and make sure you aren't laying out the tiles too close to each other. Then, take up the dry fit tiles starting from the doorway into the room working in sections or zones that are within arms reach. These will be the zones that you spread your thinset to. Keep track of which tiles go where, usually putting them in a stack against a wall and in order of right to left, front to back. Use a marker on your underlayment to trace the tile footprint each time you take up a 'zone.' Using a marker on the floor, or on the bottom inch of a wall to mark where grout lines are supposed to be will also help to keep things in the exact spot you dry fit them in. Doing it this way means you don't have to be making cuts while your thinset is drying out in the bucket. It also means you can walk on the tile while you are dry fitting them, which you cant do when you are setting them.
Lot of good tips here, I did the full cut and dry fit and dry erase marker on each one (tape with sharpie would work well too and not rub off as easily). The 50% offset is usually fine for porcelain tile, the reason for not doing 50% is if the tiles aren't flat and are more likely to cause lippage which is usually the case with ceramic tile. Don't forget to look at patterns on tile and mix it up, mix up batches too. Invest in the proper tile cutting tools to make the best edges (if they are visible) and not have issues cutting smaller pieces / weird corner pieces and whatnot. I have a great wet tile saw with a new blade, large 24" tile cutter, diamond angle grinder cutting disc, etc.
Thanks bro I like your videos you are very professional
Great video! Very straight forward!
Muchas gracias!
good job🎉♥
The clip has no sound or its just for me?
I just tried and it worked. Maybe close out TH-cam and try again! I hope it work
@@WINNI.Designs tnx, its worked 👍🏽
its not level its smooth level your first coarse both ways that means using a level torpedo 2footer whatever then use clips since the floor has not been prepped with mud, check with torpedo level every once in a while while tiling