making sure the parts that you aren't modifying are going to withstand the actions of the modified part being installed. you don't want a chain reaction of broken parts just to get a little better, you think.
I'm glad you made this video, because a lot of people don't understand what they're getting themselves into with high-performance builds. I decided a while ago that I was going to prioritize ease of maintenance and longevity over performance for my 4Runner. Simple, reliable suspension setup; 33 inch tires, etc. My version of "long travel" is "traveling for a long time" lol.
100% not a mechanic here - but you have perfectly highlighted the reasons my truck is getting a 1 inch lift, one size up from stock tyre, and things like that. Minimal is key for me. For what I want to do - very bad road travel all over Canada - that is the ticket far more than a high maintenance high lift vehicle. Reliability and care driving will do my use case more good than other options which may look far cooler.
I'm waiting for my first 4x4 to come in (2023 ZR2) so I can start overlanding. This kind of information is so helpful in getting me ready for what to expect and how to take care of my truck. I really appreciate this type of video. Keep up the great content.
That is an excellent point - there are so many TH-cam videos out there which extoll the virtues of high end this and high end that and treat (by assumption) the newbie as if they are not there. Personally, as a newbie, I like the kind of explanation videos such as this provide as it helps confirm decisions that I have already made and prevent some bad ideas from happening.
I learned the suspension maintenance issue the hard way. I upgraded old F150's suspension with an Icon coilover kit, but one of the front coilovers started leaking early on, and there were no shops in my area willing to work on it. Since it was my daily driver, I couldn't afford for it to be down for weeks at a time. Now that I have a Raptor, I plan to keep it as stock ad possible, at least while it's my only vehicle.
I fully understand your logic. I have a Toyota Hi Lux / tacoma . Reason I brought a Toyota is reliability and this left it standard. As don’t want to compromise reliability. Thank you for your brilliant video clip .
Great question! Being a tundra owner myself, but not a regular avid off-roader …the power steering rack was my greatest concern. The cost and the man hours involved for the replacement can be expensive. (A minimal middle setting lift at 1.5” and 5100’s, upgraded UCA’s and a +25 offset FN wheels on 315/70/17’s) …and of course zerk fitted outer tie rods is where I draw the line for my upgrades. The very light weight wheels and D rated tire are a great fit with minimal exertion on the hydraulics. I did my research before the modifications, ensuring that I had the the rack would be treated with TLC. Keep up the stellar content. Your knowledge base and paying it forward is very well appreciated
Love this! Sounds like you did your research. I just want people to get into this hobby and not have horrible experiences... clearly I am willing to to go to the deep end... but I learned a lot the hard way cause I had no good information. TH-cam is amazing for that.
A you’re absolutely right, on all accounts mentioned. After blowing an inner seal on the original rack, unfortunately I had to learn the hard was as well. Although the truck had experienced a cross continent east to west drive - followed by logging roads on a spacer lift and E rated 10 plies (all within a week): my negligence when it came to educating myself - turned out to bite me in the keister. $1200 for a replacement re-manned rack, $250 core charge reimbursement- $1k labour. I got off lucky, as book time is approximately 18 hours!!. My mechanic did it in 7h!! 🎉 Coming from owning many Subaru’s and educating myself on forums such as NASIOC - (prior to the days of TH-cam) I failed to do this when I purchased my tundra; thinking it be resilient. Within my local forums and pages, I have tried my best to inform others as well within the topic or rack and pinions, as many don’t realize the cost involved to replace. It’s all about paying it forward, educating each other and emptying directing our piggy bank change to the most appropriate and enjoyable expenses. 👌😁
well this gives me food for thought for sure lol im glad ive watched this. maybe i wont modify my truck.... yet anyways. gotta do some more searching to figure out what would work best for my applications
I am currently in the before modding stages only installed the bilstein 6112/5160 combo. Went for easy install, and limited maintenance for my first setup. No long travel in my future as I need more knowledge and abilities before I commit to the dark side. One day. That day will also arrive when my garage is tooled up enough to do all the maintenance myself, minus suspension rebuilding. Future proofing for we enough. Working in the needed and mentioned maintenance sure ads up fast. Worth it, just have to be aware.
I really enjoyed this video! I If you have a broken CV you can disassemble it, take the spiders, cages and bearings out of each end, clean them up real nice and stick them in your tool bag. Now you have 'plugs" for when a CV breaks on the trail. A plug to keep your differential sealed and a plug to keep your wheel on. This trick has saved my butt multiple times, I now carry two inner joints and two outer joints just in case. The reason I don't just carry a spare CV is because I top have a long travel kit, and I haven't secured a third extended axle shaft yet.
Another note on Tires, if you have a full size spare(or two) those should be rotated into your tire rotation for even tire wear across all tires, and potentially extend the life of your tires another 10-20k more miles.
Wow! Eye opening. Just got a 2016 Tundra coming from a 4Runner. I miss the ground clearance of the 4runner and started to look at just taller tires (1/2-1”) and 6112/5160 while keeping stock rims. I was tempted to do more, but keep reading some of the downsides if you aren’t off-roading and overlanding as a big hobby (or are? 😉). Thanks for the vid, helped me decide to keep it tame and simple for what I do. Super helpful.
Someone hit my tundra in the parking lot and damaged the front bumper I wanted to buy an after market bumper but I’m not sure if I should. The off-road bumper I think will funny with the stock tires on the trd pro. So now I know I’ll want 35s and the rear bumper too. It kills me I have to pay as much to fix it back to stock when I could have the bumper and do it myself then not worry about it again. Decisions lol
Without over explaining it I would say on my first off road build it was staying under 3.5 inches of lift. XJs start to run into drive line angle problems and you’ll start to need a different t case cross member, SYE and so on. I ended up doing 3-4 builds on that Jeep before buying another XJ. I also built a ton of other XJs, ZJs, JKs and Toyotas over the years. I’m at the point where now I enjoy my Taco with a factory locker and multi terrain select. I lifted it an inch and run 32s on the factory wheels. Next I’ll add sliders and call it good. It wheels great, basically drives 100 stock and I love pushing the limits of the factory truck. All things considered it’s actually really capable, mainly departure angle and body damage are the limiting factor. I love crazy builds but I also appreciate keeping things simple too. Ronny Dahl does a nice breakdown of how much it costs per night for most overland builds that only get used a few times a year, I think it epitomizes a lot of vehicles in any part of car culture. But, I’m car/truck crazy and I still love them. Whether it makes sense or not I’ll always be modifying everything.
I really appreciate people like you that can see it from both sides... I can tell you why you should run a very capable stock truck but at the same time I want to build a stupid expensive rock crawler and a 550 HP Desert runner... the reality is however far you go... go with the right knowledge and then you get to spend your money smarter.
this is basically where I'm at as well. I had a pretty well built JKU on 35's. Now I'm just really enjoying my T4R ORP with about 2" in front to level it out and 32s and rock sliders. Otherwise I'm not going crazy with this rig, I'm looking for longevity of life/miles this time around.
I wish I had a mentor too... I seriously learn everything the hard way... it is too hard to find people that know this stuff and have any time anymore.
I have a stage 4 Ironman FCP kit on order. This video talking about maintenance confirmed my choice again, even though I have FOMO looking the sexy remote reservoir setups! My local shop insists that Ironman and its low maintenance is the way to go for me, even though they can sell me a more expensive setup. A year later are you happy with your Ironman setup? Hopefully you catch this and I get an answer or others can give feedback. FYI - this is for my 07 Limited 4Runner with the V8. Thanks!
Nothing better than a stock Toyota CV. Well at least that I’ve heard of for a Land Cruiser. But then again, I’m not deep deep in the world of parts to know. I’ll just stick with works, and thank the parts department for my Land Cruiser discount.
That 6-8 week downtime is what I’m worried about with my TRD pro , when I bought the truck I was not aware those shocks had to be rebuilt every 50-60k, so now I have to buy another set of shocks just so I can keep driving while I ship the originals off to be rebuilt 😒
@@OutdoorAuto I’ve heard the rebuild kit is $50 per shock and someone on the Tundra forum said it want to difficult to rebuild them yourself, that could be an option for you 🤷♂️
I enjoyed your overview of the cv axles. This is my first IFS truck. Unfortunately up in the rust belt I undercoat my vehicles with PFC so its tough to see if my cv boots are leaking... lol
This is a great video. First question with any vehicle: where do I get it serviced? Common brands have the most dealers, especially on the road, far from home. Sadly, leaky CV boots, plastic radiators and regular maintenance cost a lot, and they don't look cool. First thing, get ALL your servicing up to date!
I just purchased a new to me 2018 F150 5.0 XLT FX4 4x4 All stock with 18” Ford rims and terrible brand new tires that do not fit my lifestyle at all. Continental Contrac LTs My number one passion is the Outdoors, hunting, fishing, rough camping and Mild Off-roading. It is mainly my Daily Driver although I also have a few others. I am looking for advice and recommendations on a new setup for my lifestyle. Is a Level kit good enough just with spacers for front and possibly blocks in the rear? Or are decent front coil overs for 2” lift and also upgraded rear shocks and blocks. Or also, is a 3.5” overall lift much better? (Bilsteins or any other reputable brand and set up. I do not want to worry about bottoming out in the woods and would like to be able to safely clear terrain and creeks. I would really appreciate some advice and suggestions from you and also anyone on here. Thank you!!
Suspension upgrades kinda depend on budget. But for most tricks a 3” lift can get you to a good tire size without messing with the stock geometry too much. So I would go for 35’s, 2.5 - 3” lift that also levels the truck and get a solid AT tire… check out the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT
@@OutdoorAuto Are Rough Country Lifts okay or is there a better alternative? I also want good front/rear suspension parts and not cheap. I am looking for all around quality
This just told me that I should just buy a factory built off road truck with what I want instead of buying a basic one and upgrading it. Am I overthinking it?
Im down about 350lbs... still working on it... have it on the lift right now to cut off some old brackets. I save all the stuff I cut off and weight it... I know... im a nerd.
So question about tires... my truck came with a P rated tire. I now run E rated tires. I have heard that you should not run E rated tires at less than 40psi. The door says 30psi on the front and 33 on the rear... my truck is not loaded with weight. 6000lbs with me sitting in it. 2011 tundra. So can I run my 295/70R18s at recommended psi or do I need to bump it up to above 40? Is the 40 psi a myth or real?
There are two things at play here... P rated tires are Passenger Rated which should be compared to LT Rated which is Light Truck (this is what SHOULD be on a Tundra especially if you plan to offroad - LT tires).... then within LT tires are the different PLY ratings Technically A - E.... but you never really see much LT tires below C and above E. E is equivalent to a 10 ply rating, D is 8 ply and so on. Sounds like you now have E rated LT tires.... which is great for off-roading. the 40 PSI thing with E rated tires is because they are 10 ply they are thick enough to handle major hauling/payloads and that is where the 40psi thing comes from. So as long as you are just driving a normal truck, normal weight... go with what your door says and you should be fine... if you end up towing or picking up a huge load of sand... you might want to air them up a bit. I run mine around 35 for every day use and it was worked well for me... but it can be different from tire to tire depending on shape.
Thats the difference between bought versus built. The guys that build their truck can service them... everone else well they like nice things and pay the penalty
I have a question, is it okay to put a spacer just to level the front end with the back end of your truck? Right now I'm running on stock tires when I bought my Tundra , I believe they're 31's not sure I just want to go up next size up 285 70 r18 right now I'm running 275 70 r18 will that do just as much damage to your truck like if you were to put who new 15 thousands dollars of suspension on your truck?
I really appreciate this feedback. Sometimes I just make videos that I think need to be made even though almost nobody will watch them… this video won’t make ANY money… but I feel like it is a key part of the process and learning so I just make it anyway 🤷♂️
What was your biggest concern before modifying your Vehicle?
breaking down when offroading
State laws... I travel a lot some states have weird laws... don't want to get stopped because I do or don't have something.
making sure the parts that you aren't modifying are going to withstand the actions of the modified part being installed. you don't want a chain reaction of broken parts just to get a little better, you think.
Keeping it under 8k for an overlanding suspension/lift for front and rear build on 2020 Silverado
I need to drive home 😂 it needs to be done 😂
I'm glad you made this video, because a lot of people don't understand what they're getting themselves into with high-performance builds. I decided a while ago that I was going to prioritize ease of maintenance and longevity over performance for my 4Runner. Simple, reliable suspension setup; 33 inch tires, etc. My version of "long travel" is "traveling for a long time" lol.
I think your version of Long Travel will serve you well... 4Runners are amazingly capable vehicles.
Great video! I too learn the hard way on fancy race-proven "upgrades". More people need to understand the dirty reality.
Budget planning is probably the thing This stuff helps the most.
dude, most practical overland channel on youtube. thank you.
100% not a mechanic here - but you have perfectly highlighted the reasons my truck is getting a 1 inch lift, one size up from stock tyre, and things like that. Minimal is key for me. For what I want to do - very bad road travel all over Canada - that is the ticket far more than a high maintenance high lift vehicle. Reliability and care driving will do my use case more good than other options which may look far cooler.
Can't wait to apply these ideas, awesome content.
I'm waiting for my first 4x4 to come in (2023 ZR2) so I can start overlanding. This kind of information is so helpful in getting me ready for what to expect and how to take care of my truck. I really appreciate this type of video. Keep up the great content.
Awesome, those have some pretty advanced suspension… all the CV stuff definitely applies… good stuff to know if you really get after it on the trails.
Again thank you for taking the time to be honest with us neophytes !! Many dollars and potential damage/downtime avoided by your videos!!
That is an excellent point - there are so many TH-cam videos out there which extoll the virtues of high end this and high end that and treat (by assumption) the newbie as if they are not there. Personally, as a newbie, I like the kind of explanation videos such as this provide as it helps confirm decisions that I have already made and prevent some bad ideas from happening.
I learned the suspension maintenance issue the hard way. I upgraded old F150's suspension with an Icon coilover kit, but one of the front coilovers started leaking early on, and there were no shops in my area willing to work on it. Since it was my daily driver, I couldn't afford for it to be down for weeks at a time. Now that I have a Raptor, I plan to keep it as stock ad possible, at least while it's my only vehicle.
I fully understand your logic. I have a Toyota Hi Lux / tacoma . Reason I brought a Toyota is reliability and this left it standard. As don’t want to compromise reliability. Thank you for your brilliant video clip .
Great question!
Being a tundra owner myself, but not a regular avid off-roader …the power steering rack was my greatest concern. The cost and the man hours involved for the replacement can be expensive.
(A minimal middle setting lift at 1.5” and 5100’s, upgraded UCA’s and a +25 offset FN wheels on 315/70/17’s) …and of course zerk fitted outer tie rods is where I draw the line for my upgrades. The very light weight wheels and D rated tire are a great fit with minimal exertion on the hydraulics.
I did my research before the modifications, ensuring that I had the the rack would be treated with TLC.
Keep up the stellar content. Your knowledge base and paying it forward is very well appreciated
Love this! Sounds like you did your research. I just want people to get into this hobby and not have horrible experiences... clearly I am willing to to go to the deep end... but I learned a lot the hard way cause I had no good information. TH-cam is amazing for that.
A you’re absolutely right, on all accounts mentioned.
After blowing an inner seal on the original rack, unfortunately I had to learn the hard was as well. Although the truck had experienced a cross continent east to west drive - followed by logging roads on a spacer lift and E rated 10 plies (all within a week): my negligence when it came to educating myself - turned out to bite me in the keister.
$1200 for a replacement re-manned rack, $250 core charge reimbursement- $1k labour.
I got off lucky, as book time is approximately 18 hours!!. My mechanic did it in 7h!! 🎉
Coming from owning many Subaru’s and educating myself on forums such as NASIOC - (prior to the days of TH-cam) I failed to do this when I purchased my tundra; thinking it be resilient.
Within my local forums and pages, I have tried my best to inform others as well within the topic or rack and pinions, as many don’t realize the cost involved to replace.
It’s all about paying it forward, educating each other and emptying directing our piggy bank change to the most appropriate and enjoyable expenses. 👌😁
Ahhh yes the video that someone needed to make. The down side of cool/fun. 👍
well this gives me food for thought for sure lol im glad ive watched this. maybe i wont modify my truck.... yet anyways. gotta do some more searching to figure out what would work best for my applications
I am currently in the before modding stages only installed the bilstein 6112/5160 combo.
Went for easy install, and limited maintenance for my first setup.
No long travel in my future as I need more knowledge and abilities before I commit to the dark side. One day. That day will also arrive when my garage is tooled up enough to do all the maintenance myself, minus suspension rebuilding.
Future proofing for we enough. Working in the needed and mentioned maintenance sure ads up fast. Worth it, just have to be aware.
Sounds like you are going into it wide open and have a plan... thats the way to do this.
I really enjoyed this video! I If you have a broken CV you can disassemble it, take the spiders, cages and bearings out of each end, clean them up real nice and stick them in your tool bag. Now you have 'plugs" for when a CV breaks on the trail. A plug to keep your differential sealed and a plug to keep your wheel on. This trick has saved my butt multiple times, I now carry two inner joints and two outer joints just in case.
The reason I don't just carry a spare CV is because I top have a long travel kit, and I haven't secured a third extended axle shaft yet.
Yeah, those long chromoly Axels aren't cheap.
@@OutdoorAuto for real and they don't want to break up a set to sell me a spare 😞
Thank you. This was a real eye opener on the downsides of going wild with upgrades on a vehicle.
Another note on Tires, if you have a full size spare(or two) those should be rotated into your tire rotation for even tire wear across all tires, and potentially extend the life of your tires another 10-20k more miles.
Subscribed 😎👊🏻 Great Video
Wow! Eye opening. Just got a 2016 Tundra coming from a 4Runner. I miss the ground clearance of the 4runner and started to look at just taller tires (1/2-1”) and 6112/5160 while keeping stock rims.
I was tempted to do more, but keep reading some of the downsides if you aren’t off-roading and overlanding as a big hobby (or are? 😉).
Thanks for the vid, helped me decide to keep it tame and simple for what I do. Super helpful.
Someone hit my tundra in the parking lot and damaged the front bumper I wanted to buy an after market bumper but I’m not sure if I should. The off-road bumper I think will funny with the stock tires on the trd pro. So now I know I’ll want 35s and the rear bumper too. It kills me I have to pay as much to fix it back to stock when I could have the bumper and do it myself then not worry about it again. Decisions lol
Without over explaining it I would say on my first off road build it was staying under 3.5 inches of lift. XJs start to run into drive line angle problems and you’ll start to need a different t case cross member, SYE and so on. I ended up doing 3-4 builds on that Jeep before buying another XJ. I also built a ton of other XJs, ZJs, JKs and Toyotas over the years. I’m at the point where now I enjoy my Taco with a factory locker and multi terrain select. I lifted it an inch and run 32s on the factory wheels. Next I’ll add sliders and call it good. It wheels great, basically drives 100 stock and I love pushing the limits of the factory truck. All things considered it’s actually really capable, mainly departure angle and body damage are the limiting factor. I love crazy builds but I also appreciate keeping things simple too. Ronny Dahl does a nice breakdown of how much it costs per night for most overland builds that only get used a few times a year, I think it epitomizes a lot of vehicles in any part of car culture. But, I’m car/truck crazy and I still love them. Whether it makes sense or not I’ll always be modifying everything.
I really appreciate people like you that can see it from both sides... I can tell you why you should run a very capable stock truck but at the same time I want to build a stupid expensive rock crawler and a 550 HP Desert runner... the reality is however far you go... go with the right knowledge and then you get to spend your money smarter.
this is basically where I'm at as well. I had a pretty well built JKU on 35's. Now I'm just really enjoying my T4R ORP with about 2" in front to level it out and 32s and rock sliders. Otherwise I'm not going crazy with this rig, I'm looking for longevity of life/miles this time around.
Awesome information, something to think about.😎
Definitely!
Bruh this guy is great. Subbed 👊🏾🤘🏾 I have an 18 tundra. I enjoyed this
Thank you for the real life insight and advice. I wish I had a mentor with knowledge like this IRL to learn from
I wish I had a mentor too... I seriously learn everything the hard way... it is too hard to find people that know this stuff and have any time anymore.
Fantastic video, but you can replace the 12 ton press for the uniballs with a uniball extraction kit from a mfr like AGM
I am aware... there are always more specialty tools to buy...
Great video Nate, good reminder why I run a solid front axle, even if it doesn't ride as good as that super nice long arm IFS.
Another great video! Also like the way u produced it.
Thanks... I was trying out a little different style... glad somebody noticed.
Exactly the reason I’m never getting Fox shocks. I just ordered a set of Ironman 4x4
I checked Kings and it was the same... 6-8 weeks 🤷♂️
I have a stage 4 Ironman FCP kit on order. This video talking about maintenance confirmed my choice again, even though I have FOMO looking the sexy remote reservoir setups! My local shop insists that Ironman and its low maintenance is the way to go for me, even though they can sell me a more expensive setup. A year later are you happy with your Ironman setup? Hopefully you catch this and I get an answer or others can give feedback. FYI - this is for my 07 Limited 4Runner with the V8. Thanks!
Rebuilding a cv joint, please use cv specific grease, it's both high pressure and high temp
Yup, great point.
Nothing better than a stock Toyota CV. Well at least that I’ve heard of for a Land Cruiser. But then again, I’m not deep deep in the world of parts to know. I’ll just stick with works, and thank the parts department for my Land Cruiser discount.
Really makes a case for solid axles...
Would you say a tundra on 35s on trd pro suspension with wescott design kit would mess up the longevity of my truck
MORE!!... subscribed
That 6-8 week downtime is what I’m worried about with my TRD pro , when I bought the truck I was not aware those shocks had to be rebuilt every 50-60k, so now I have to buy another set of shocks just so I can keep driving while I ship the originals off to be rebuilt 😒
Yeah... that downtime is a killer for most of us... I have been saving up for a 2nd set of shocks as well.
@@OutdoorAuto I’ve heard the rebuild kit is $50 per shock and someone on the Tundra forum said it want to difficult to rebuild them yourself, that could be an option for you 🤷♂️
I enjoyed your overview of the cv axles. This is my first IFS truck. Unfortunately up in the rust belt I undercoat my vehicles with PFC so its tough to see if my cv boots are leaking... lol
Yeah that stuff goes on thick. In your case you pretty much just have to inspect the boots every once in a while.
Good info, tx! Just curious, do you have rear frame stiffeners on your tundra?
Yes I do… i think they are from SDHQ… if I remember… it’s been a while.
Tx!
@@OutdoorAuto
This is a great video. First question with any vehicle: where do I get it serviced? Common brands have the most dealers, especially on the road, far from home. Sadly, leaky CV boots, plastic radiators and regular maintenance cost a lot, and they don't look cool. First thing, get ALL your servicing up to date!
Totally agree 👍
I just purchased a new to me
2018 F150 5.0 XLT FX4 4x4
All stock with 18” Ford rims and terrible brand new tires that do not fit my lifestyle at all.
Continental Contrac LTs
My number one passion is the Outdoors, hunting, fishing,
rough camping and Mild Off-roading.
It is mainly my Daily Driver although I also have a few others.
I am looking for advice and recommendations on a new setup for my lifestyle.
Is a Level kit good enough just with spacers for front and possibly blocks in the rear?
Or are decent front coil overs for 2” lift and also upgraded rear shocks and blocks.
Or also, is a 3.5” overall lift much better? (Bilsteins or any other reputable brand and set up.
I do not want to worry about bottoming out in the woods and would like to be able to safely clear terrain and creeks.
I would really appreciate some advice and suggestions from you and also anyone on here.
Thank you!!
Suspension upgrades kinda depend on budget. But for most tricks a 3” lift can get you to a good tire size without messing with the stock geometry too much. So I would go for 35’s, 2.5 - 3” lift that also levels the truck and get a solid AT tire… check out the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT
@@OutdoorAuto thanks brother
@@OutdoorAuto Are Rough Country Lifts okay or is there a better alternative?
I also want good front/rear suspension parts and not cheap. I am looking for all around quality
This just told me that I should just buy a factory built off road truck with what I want instead of buying a basic one and upgrading it. Am I overthinking it?
How's the weight reduction on the truck coming along
Im down about 350lbs... still working on it... have it on the lift right now to cut off some old brackets. I save all the stuff I cut off and weight it... I know... im a nerd.
You may be a nerd, but we all benefit from you nerding out on this stuff. 😂
So question about tires... my truck came with a P rated tire. I now run E rated tires. I have heard that you should not run E rated tires at less than 40psi. The door says 30psi on the front and 33 on the rear... my truck is not loaded with weight. 6000lbs with me sitting in it. 2011 tundra. So can I run my 295/70R18s at recommended psi or do I need to bump it up to above 40? Is the 40 psi a myth or real?
There are two things at play here... P rated tires are Passenger Rated which should be compared to LT Rated which is Light Truck (this is what SHOULD be on a Tundra especially if you plan to offroad - LT tires).... then within LT tires are the different PLY ratings Technically A - E.... but you never really see much LT tires below C and above E. E is equivalent to a 10 ply rating, D is 8 ply and so on. Sounds like you now have E rated LT tires.... which is great for off-roading. the 40 PSI thing with E rated tires is because they are 10 ply they are thick enough to handle major hauling/payloads and that is where the 40psi thing comes from. So as long as you are just driving a normal truck, normal weight... go with what your door says and you should be fine... if you end up towing or picking up a huge load of sand... you might want to air them up a bit. I run mine around 35 for every day use and it was worked well for me... but it can be different from tire to tire depending on shape.
@OutdoorAuto thank you, your content is awesome!
What’s that place in California you speak of? I’m in Sacramento
Thats the difference between bought versus built. The guys that build their truck can service them... everone else well they like nice things and pay the penalty
I have a question, is it okay to put a spacer just to level the front end with the back end of your truck? Right now I'm running on stock tires when I bought my Tundra , I believe they're 31's not sure I just want to go up next size up 285 70 r18 right now I'm running 275 70 r18 will that do just as much damage to your truck like if you were to put who new 15 thousands dollars of suspension on your truck?
This was so dead on, I figured there would be some fluff nonsense but actually learned a thing or two! 🍻
I really appreciate this feedback. Sometimes I just make videos that I think need to be made even though almost nobody will watch them… this video won’t make ANY money… but I feel like it is a key part of the process and learning so I just make it anyway 🤷♂️