If you understand the factory strategy, you will find that the dual spark function is inhibited above 1500 RPM. In other words, it's turned off above 1,500 in the factory setting.. The parameter id looks like this :PLGNHI Dual Plug Ignition RPM Max 1,500. You can change the value with a tuner and supporting strategy, so that both coils fire up to the max RPM. Some have debated weather this is effective. In my experience it definitely makes a difference in detonation resistance, so if possible, I would set this at the rev limit. The Ford Twin Spark 2.3L SOHC Coil Pack Mod can't work, because both coils fire on the compression and exhaust stroke. A free mod that will actually will work, would be to slot the crank sensor bracket and add some more ignition timing. 10 more degrees would help a lot. Removing the baffles from the intake muffler wouldn't hurt either.
Only problem I can possibly see with the crank sensor bracket is I don't think the '92 I4 has a bracket. If I am remembering it correctly, it's just a single piece that bolts straight to the face of the motor and to get any timing advance out of it, you'll be drilling and tapping holes in the block. This is purely based on my memory, and I could absolutely be wrong, but I think this is how it is and I just wanted to throw in a warning thought.
@@jameskee2412 Having performed the mod myself, I can tell you it is fairly easy to do, however, there's still advantanges to be had by careful tuning of the EEC.
Its a "waste spark" and has nothing to do with burning leftover fuel. If you had fuel buring during an exhaust stoke, while another cylinder is actually firing, it would probably destroy the engine.
This feature was purchased off of Nissan Motor Corporation as Nissan was a part of Ford Motor Corporation. Case in point, the Mercury Villiger is nothing more than a Nissan Quest. At any rate, the Z engine as it was called was purchased in 1990 in order to burn and reburn hydrocarbons for stricter cleaner air pollution equipment standards, yet give you added horsepower and more performance. These engines, were installed in certain Ford Ranger trucks, and Mazda trucks which, Mazda is also a part of Ford Motor Corporation. Case in point, the Ford Courrier trucks were actually produced by Mazda, however had a Ford Blue Oval label on the truck itself, therefore, Ford Courrier Truck.
I just wired my coil packs together on my 97 ranger. It seemed to do a little better on fuel and was more responsive at lower rpms. But for some reason at higher rpm under load sometimes it would misfire or have premonition sometimes
remember the computer on these adjust it self. probably Y not design that way. I just air burst my EGR valve and vacuum lines plus use carb cleaner and sea foam in tank. huge difference in power...
"BuT tHiS mOd WoRkS..." Yes, if you have worn coil pack(s), bad spark plug wire(s), or bad plug(s) - and ONLY then. - All 4 cylinders will actually be firing EVERY rotation = more powah!!! IF everything is running PROPERLY, you should get SLOWER acceleration as you now have 4 flame fronts colliding. > Congratulations, you have literally CREATED spark knock/detonation.🙂
This is just an emissions system, like the EGR valve. Ford programmed the computer to turn off the twin spark at 1,500-1,600 RPM, so it doesn't sputter or misfire. Twin spark is only active when idling and starting out, so the engine doesn't burn as much gas, and pollute more. After all, this engine is a 70's design, before all of the emissions stuff existed. If you've been in a Pinto, you'll know that "smell" while sitting.
Another thing to add... If you remove the emissions stuff, yes, you'll be breaking the emissions law, but you will get better performance. Some diesel truck owners do it, so they aren't having to repair those systems constantly, which costs a lot of money.
Pintos had carburators, anything with a carburator is effected by temperature. I can only speak about my 99 Ranger with a 2.5, it uses the primary coil (exhaust side plugs) when starting and after that both coils are firing. You can unplug a coil while its on and not feel any difference, plug it back in and unplug the other one and it's the same. That's actually how to test if you got a bad coil. At least in that era of the Lima 2.3/2.5 Egr valves might have started out as an emissions thing, they control exhaust temperatures effectively lowering NOX. But those lower temperatures also keep spark knock from happening, especially in 4 cylinder. They're absolutely pointless on a diesel engine. People see it as a smog part and think "tHiS iS rObBiNg PoWeR" they take it off and swear their car is faster, having no clue about the operation of an EGR valve and that they only open at mid throttle steady cruising and deceleration.
I wonder if this would work on my 2009 ranger has a 2.3l with a 6speed automatic. i think it needs new plugs and a starter motor. Sometimes it drips from the tailpipe but shifts pretty good, also been using the ac less and got a core charge with the new battery to replace the old cracked one.
remember the computer on these adjust it self. probably Y not design that way. I just air burst my EGR valve and vacuum lines plus use carb cleaner and sea foam in tank. huge difference in power...
Try it out and see for yourself. It doesn't hurt anything, and worse case scenario, you can easily put back to stock. It's definitely an interesting concept.
Your car is on par speed wise with the 94 grand am I had with a 2.3 sohc quad four! It was really hindered by its 3 spd auto. First gear was way to long getting you to almost 60 before shifting to 2nd then running to 80 before hitting 3rd
I'm honestly not sure. I don't think it would have made a difference either way. Just like performance, I think the mileage would be unchanged as well.
That's the theory. Both plugs igniting on the power stroke. I ended up replacing the ignition system with a high output system using the primary set of plugs and it ran better than stock and better than the coil pack mod.
That 'mod' is all b.s. . Both of those plugs fire at the same time. It is called a wasted spark system. Many motorcycles use the same system. All plugs fire just before top dead center depending on where in the advance cure is. On my '94 Ranger it starts at 10 degrees before tdc and advances to only 30 degrees before tdc. Compared to 35 to 40+ of single plug application. If you want to see a change, unplug one of the coil packs. Power and mileage will suffer.
Thank you for properly understanding and explaining the DIS "wasted spark" concept. The only thing those chuckle heads are doing with this "mod" is reversing the polarity of the sparks, which at the most changes the wear patterns on the electrodes slightly.
Say something that proves you dont know sheit about cars....."I swapped my Ignition coil wires around some and now the exhaust pulses are alot stronger"😅😅😅😅😅
Air is! lol No, not that that you put in your tire because some place charge for that as well! But his mod is in fact free if you don't count "effort".
@@bootyman234 well it’s compressed to greater then atmospheric pressure. This takes energy and energy cost per kilowatt. So yeah I mean I could for sure ask my accountant how it works, but he would charge me. Lol the way the world is
@@ipeefreely61 I know what you mean about people charging for EVERY thing. I took my step daughter to car toys and just wanted the guy to let me know if the set up I had on her sub woofer was okay, because her head unit has no RCA jacks on it. The guy said he wanted 50 bucks to LOOK at it! Jesus what happen to helping people out? =)
If you understand the factory strategy, you will find that the dual spark function is inhibited above 1500 RPM. In other words, it's turned off above 1,500 in the factory setting..
The parameter id looks like this :PLGNHI Dual Plug Ignition RPM Max 1,500.
You can change the value with a tuner and supporting strategy, so that both coils fire up to the max RPM. Some have debated weather this is effective. In my experience it definitely makes a difference in detonation resistance, so if possible, I would set this at the rev limit.
The Ford Twin Spark 2.3L SOHC Coil Pack Mod can't work, because both coils fire on the compression and exhaust stroke.
A free mod that will actually will work, would be to slot the crank sensor bracket and add some more ignition timing. 10 more degrees would help a lot. Removing the baffles from the intake muffler wouldn't hurt either.
Great Information! Gonna Pin this 🙂👍
@@KarzKreated Yeah, keep up the good work 👍👍. It's nice to hear a new perspective.
Thanks bud
Only problem I can possibly see with the crank sensor bracket is I don't think the '92 I4 has a bracket. If I am remembering it correctly, it's just a single piece that bolts straight to the face of the motor and to get any timing advance out of it, you'll be drilling and tapping holes in the block.
This is purely based on my memory, and I could absolutely be wrong, but I think this is how it is and I just wanted to throw in a warning thought.
@@jameskee2412 Having performed the mod myself, I can tell you it is fairly easy to do, however, there's still advantanges to be had by careful tuning of the EEC.
The dual spark is why my claptrap 96 still passes California smog with ease
god bless twin spark 2.3l
Its a "waste spark" and has nothing to do with burning leftover fuel. If you had fuel buring during an exhaust stoke, while another cylinder is actually firing, it would probably destroy the engine.
This feature was purchased off of Nissan Motor Corporation as Nissan was a part of Ford Motor Corporation. Case in point, the Mercury Villiger is nothing more than a Nissan Quest. At any rate, the Z engine as it was called was purchased in 1990 in order to burn and reburn hydrocarbons for stricter cleaner air pollution equipment standards, yet give you added horsepower and more performance. These engines, were installed in certain Ford Ranger trucks, and Mazda trucks which, Mazda is also a part of Ford Motor Corporation. Case in point, the Ford Courrier trucks were actually produced by Mazda, however had a Ford Blue Oval label on the truck itself, therefore, Ford Courrier Truck.
Thanks Karz! Just saved me some valuable time , experimenting for nothing! I think I will leave mine alone!
I love the old Lima 2.3 SOHC. Had 3 Rangers and an SVO Mustang with em. Now have a Pinto with the SVO 2.3T
Stout little reliable engines
Do a mpg difference before n after mod
I just wired my coil packs together on my 97 ranger. It seemed to do a little better on fuel and was more responsive at lower rpms. But for some reason at higher rpm under load sometimes it would misfire or have premonition sometimes
remember the computer on these adjust it self. probably Y not design that way. I just air burst my EGR valve and vacuum lines plus use carb cleaner and sea foam in tank. huge difference in power...
read the pinned top comment
😅😢it was not designed to do this but if you have the money you can do anything you want...😅
That was supposed to be pre ignition in my comment at the top not premonitions . Guess it was psychic
"BuT tHiS mOd WoRkS..."
Yes, if you have worn coil pack(s), bad spark plug wire(s), or bad plug(s) - and ONLY then.
- All 4 cylinders will actually be firing EVERY rotation = more powah!!!
IF everything is running PROPERLY, you should get SLOWER acceleration as you now have 4 flame fronts colliding.
> Congratulations, you have literally CREATED spark knock/detonation.🙂
This is just an emissions system, like the EGR valve. Ford programmed the computer to turn off the twin spark at 1,500-1,600 RPM, so it doesn't sputter or misfire. Twin spark is only active when idling and starting out, so the engine doesn't burn as much gas, and pollute more. After all, this engine is a 70's design, before all of the emissions stuff existed. If you've been in a Pinto, you'll know that "smell" while sitting.
Another thing to add... If you remove the emissions stuff, yes, you'll be breaking the emissions law, but you will get better performance. Some diesel truck owners do it, so they aren't having to repair those systems constantly, which costs a lot of money.
Pintos had carburators, anything with a carburator is effected by temperature.
I can only speak about my 99 Ranger with a 2.5, it uses the primary coil (exhaust side plugs) when starting and after that both coils are firing. You can unplug a coil while its on and not feel any difference, plug it back in and unplug the other one and it's the same. That's actually how to test if you got a bad coil. At least in that era of the Lima 2.3/2.5
Egr valves might have started out as an emissions thing, they control exhaust temperatures effectively lowering NOX. But those lower temperatures also keep spark knock from happening, especially in 4 cylinder. They're absolutely pointless on a diesel engine.
People see it as a smog part and think "tHiS iS rObBiNg PoWeR" they take it off and swear their car is faster, having no clue about the operation of an EGR valve and that they only open at mid throttle steady cruising and deceleration.
@@JoshtheweathermanDEF systems suck, nothing but a money pit as Scotty would say.
I wonder if this would work on my 2009 ranger has a 2.3l with a 6speed automatic. i think it needs new plugs and a starter motor. Sometimes it drips from the tailpipe but shifts pretty good, also been using the ac less and got a core charge with the new battery to replace the old cracked one.
If you want to see how quick this car is from 0 to 60 MPH, use the link below 😎
th-cam.com/video/c1kSfafGBLY/w-d-xo.html
remember the computer on these adjust it self. probably Y not design that way. I just air burst my EGR valve and vacuum lines plus use carb cleaner and sea foam in tank. huge difference in power...
I'm curious about testing this in the 2.5 Lima....maybe that's the difference?
Try it out and see for yourself. It doesn't hurt anything, and worse case scenario, you can easily put back to stock. It's definitely an interesting concept.
Your car is on par speed wise with the 94 grand am I had with a 2.3 sohc quad four! It was really hindered by its 3 spd auto. First gear was way to long getting you to almost 60 before shifting to 2nd then running to 80 before hitting 3rd
I wonder if it gets poorer fuel milage if you do it like that?
I'm honestly not sure. I don't think it would have made a difference either way. Just like performance, I think the mileage would be unchanged as well.
@@KarzKreated I have an 89 mustang 2.3 liter but it is run by a distributor so it only has 4 spark plugs.
Guys, spend the time you spend watching videos like this and doing stuff like this at someone’s garage that will let you hang out and help.
I need some advice on my 2.3
Sure. What's going on with it?
does this work on a 2.5 i4 engine?
If you have a dual spark head then yes it should.
My 2.3 ranger with the same motor, but a 5 speed would have passed u quick.
Haha yeah no doubt!
That Fox was horribly slow 😅
I have a 2000 with that exact setup but it's slow as balls, sometimes I think something'swrong with it
@@geniusatwork12😂
Got a 98 2.5 dual spark this does not work
You got Vacuum leak/weak fuel pump
Most likely. That car had every leak possible 😂
Vacuum leak, oil leak, exhaust leak, trans fluid leak... It just leaked
No job, middle of the day, doing 13+sec 0 -60 runs. What went wrong?
I know. I was living the life wasn't i
Ping ping ping boom 💥
Your times are going to get better if you would get your RPM'z up before taking off.
The stock coils already fire on the exhaust stroke… they’re wasted spark they always do that… what’s the purpose of have 2 coils? Double the spark?
That's the theory. Both plugs igniting on the power stroke. I ended up replacing the ignition system with a high output system using the primary set of plugs and it ran better than stock and better than the coil pack mod.
That 'mod' is all b.s. . Both of those plugs fire at the same time. It is called a wasted spark system. Many motorcycles use the same system. All plugs fire just before top dead center depending on where in the advance cure is. On my '94 Ranger it starts at 10 degrees before tdc and advances to only 30 degrees before tdc. Compared to 35 to 40+ of single plug application. If you want to see a change, unplug one of the coil packs. Power and mileage will suffer.
Just unplug one coil and drive?
@@TheRealIsaiahWake yes
@@nebrrex6910 what will it do tho? You say it will suffer power and mpg, so what’s the benefit?
@@TheRealIsaiahWake A more complete burn with less ignition advance.
Thank you for properly understanding and explaining the DIS "wasted spark" concept. The only thing those chuckle heads are doing with this "mod" is reversing the polarity of the sparks, which at the most changes the wear patterns on the electrodes slightly.
Makes no difference having two plugs firing. These are multiple spark systems.
They run a long time with minimal maintenance but don't have any power and fuel mileage isn't great. A modern v8 will win power and mileage.
Unlucky!
No matter the case, that car is slow AF
This is so true lmao I drive one for my daily
🤣
Good lord I can’t believe anyone would do this, and expect to gain anything 😂
Say something that proves you dont know sheit about cars....."I swapped my Ignition coil wires around some and now the exhaust pulses are alot stronger"😅😅😅😅😅
Ever heard of satire?
The Only reason Ford did this is for a cleaner burn. The head design is terrible such as the modern Hemi as they need 16 plugs to burn clean.
Nothing's free.
Air is! lol No, not that that you put in your tire because some place charge for that as well! But his mod is in fact free if you don't count "effort".
@@bootyman234 well it’s compressed to greater then atmospheric pressure. This takes energy and energy cost per kilowatt. So yeah I mean I could for sure ask my accountant how it works, but he would charge me. Lol the way the world is
@@ipeefreely61 I know what you mean about people charging for EVERY thing. I took my step daughter to car toys and just wanted the guy to let me know if the set up I had on her sub woofer was okay, because her head unit has no RCA jacks on it. The guy said he wanted 50 bucks to LOOK at it! Jesus what happen to helping people out? =)