I own a real deal model 1987 purchased new in 1970 at the age of 15, my first real amp. It is so versatile and rewarding to use I’ve never even contemplated selling to reap the 1200% appreciation. About 15 years ago I had the time to strip it completely apart and rebuild to museum quality. I learned so much about it doing this and it is now better than new. Sold the silly 8x10 speaker it came with pretty soon after buying. I use mine with a fairly detailed programmable pedalboard system of my own design, so I almost never use it as ‘designed’. Still, that unique Marshall tone comes through clearly. It is the longest kept piece of guitar gear I’ve ever owned, just barely eclipsing my Stratocaster, for which the amp seems made.
All the wires on the turret board, you could also put small piece of mask tape on each end and mark them after soldering one at a time. Instead of checking all them with the meter. Save ⏰️. Good video 👍
Looks like fun nuild i have a 68 small box 50w plxi its bone stock ive had many marshalls but this one is my keeper iv had it 30 years regular tune ups no problems no breakdowns RIP jim marshall best amps
I had a 1966 small box plexi sold it for £300 in 1999 had no idea of it's value but was broke at the time serial 2070 bet it's in some collection now! Paul Marshall told me in 2009 it was worth about 5 to 8 k !!!
great video Matthew, would love to hear it with presence and all tone controls on 3, gain on 10, volume on whatever the neighbours will tolerate briefly! (Angus settings) and thru a Shaffer if you have one!
Nice job on the build Matthew! I agree with you about using modern resistors as opposed to the carbon composite ones. Back in the day, they used them because that's what was available. Some people will say the type of resistor used affects the tone of the amp, but I'm not sure about that. When I have serviced my 50 year old Fender amps, at a minimum, I used modern resistors in the filter capacitor section, and in the bias supply. I'm surprised you didn't first power up the amp using a variac. Maybe you did and just didn't film that part.
Using old type out of spec resistors does affect the tone. If you put the wrong value components in it isn,t going to be as desired. Those people who say it sounds different are correct. The bit they get wrong is it was wrong and they got used to it. Put the correct values in and it will sound as it was designed to sound. I know a hifi nerd who thinks he knows the score. He got told by some guitar amp repair guy that old capacitors sound better. What an idiot. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@MatthewNorthMusic Great video btw. I'm just in the final stages of a Small Box Plexi build. I read that Modulus have some extra info which is useful but I can't get a reply from them. Grounding mods etc. I have some different coloured transformer wire but I'm sure I can work out what is what. I like your idea with the heater circuit. I think I'll try that if I suffer too much hum. Thanks for your help. 👍
Well done on the Build Matthew. Wiring looks great. I've been chasing down hum in Marshall's for ages, with some recent success. Check out "The Valve Wizard" grounding and ground schemes for some great info on how to quiet down your amp, if you even want to. A bit of hum is like the originals, but you can get them dead silent with a few changes to the ground scheme. Cheers.
@@MatthewNorthMusic My Ceriatone is dead quiet cranked. There is a little 120hz (US) hum on start up when taken out of standby, (I'm assuming from the filter caps, and choke charging). After that it is amazingly quiet for a tube amp. I used coaxial cable for any internal leads carrying signal. I was careful not to have signal wires routed near power suppl leads. I oriented coupling caps with the the outer foil lead going to the lower impedance part of the circuit. I avoided using any components with ferrous metal in the signal path. I used star grounding. I also lined the head cab with copper tape, (which reduces hiss). Contrary to conventional wisdom, I did use NOS carbon comp resistors in the signal path that are alleged to be noisy. The CC resistors weren't an issue. I will say that some tubes/ valves are noisier than others. I realize you mentioned that you are satisfied with your current noise floor level, but I thought I would share some ideas for future reference in case you are interested. Cheers.
Nice job mate! Well done! Yeah I'm not fond of the old inaccurate Allen Bradley carbon composition resistors either. As you had, they can be inaccurate to start with, but then they tend to drift high in value over time as well. Better to use Vishay metal film resistors, or similar. They're more stable at high temperatures too. That sux with the broken pot & missing resistors! How could they forget? You seemed pretty careful unboxing the thing, so I don't think you broke the pot. Lettem know mate! Have a whinge! That'll get their QA department chasing the cause, & maybe they'll pack it better next time! As for forgetting the resistors that's just carelessness & should never happen. Maybe a late Friday afternoon job or something, thing about going down the pub instead of the job at hand. But it sounds good! Like a real one! Valves? Cable ties? Good to hear someone call them by their proper names for a change! I enjoyed this video mate so I'm subscribing! Cheers nev from Australia.
@MatthewNorthMusic 39:21 is there a technique to identify during the wiring-up phase which way 'round the transformer wires need to go? Or, is it flick the standby switch, and keep your fingers crossed? Cheers
@MatthewNorthMusic no dude parallel does not cancel each other. Trust me. If you do not visit Uncle Doug channel, he explains stuff very well. BTW I am amplifier designed and builder, so you can save yourself the time and benefit from the good tip. It was meant positive. BTW, learning from Uncle Doug is something I wish to everyone who wants to build a tube amplifier. He is a great teacher, and he has real knowledge, unlike the current influences.
As I have linked elsewhere on this thread if you go to the modulus electronics website they actually recommend it. Specifically because as well as the wires being run in parallel they are also 90 degrees to the signal wires so they are well out of the way of causing any interference.
@MatthewNorthMusic your loss, mate. I can't make you help yourself or learn things. Going from up to down is something Fender used, and it's great. But at least read about twisted pair cables and AC signals and even data cables and shielding. The only time you do not need to twist your filament wire is when you use DC filament supply. Why every Marshall amp and Fender amp twisted cables? Why are computer network cables twisted? Be reasonable and learn. Or just stop claiming something you understood wrong.
OK answer me this then why then are amplifiers made on printed circuit boards do the filament tracks run in parallel? And why is there no hum picked up on my amp here ? And hasn't been for over 2 years since I built it ?
Yes, it's well known that the JTM was umm.... "heavily inspired"😊 shall we say by the tweed bassman. But there are so many variables that contribute to the over all sound of a guitar amplifier that even small differences in materials, layout, etc. Can sometimes result in rather dramatic changes in tonal characteristics, response, volume and other parameters. Even though the JTM was basically a straight rip of the bassman there were still enough differences, most notably the different power tube and speaker compliments that the JTM is essentially a unique amplifier apart from its parent DNA.
The Speaker has way more relevance for the sound than the amp though. shove any half dence valve amp into some greenbacks you get an approximation to a classic marshall type sound
Thanks for this, hadn't heard of the brand of kit. I assume they can be wired for 110v US electricity? Also those glass things are called tubes, not 'valves' ;-) I'm kidding!
Super .. I bought a 20 Watt Plexi two Knob control only ...Volume + Tone, from Ampmaker UK a few years back . I really want to buy one of these ..especially these having more controls . Do they give you a schematic ..with the kit . By the way you did a cracking job on your build very tidy looks spot on !
Looks to be much the the same spec as mine. But when mine is cranked, the presence squeals when turned up. I read on the Metroamp forum that is normal for early Plexi specs, but I dunno. They were saying it's because some DC finds its way to the presence pot. Maybe that's it. The other thing I want to solve is how when it is turned up there is very little margin between a soft note with a light touch and it going full bore blasting your face off. Just the slightest more pressure with the pick makes it go from an almost clean, soft note to full tilt. I know from experience that these amps are very sensitive like that, but this one seems more so. It does not do it so much plugging it into my Freyette Power Station, so I wonder if it's something going on between the output section and the 2x12 I use making that happen. P.S. I grew up in Milton Keynes, but have lived in NZ for yonks now. It is impossible to get many of the parts we need for this stuff, e.g., I had to import a 0.68uF cap FFS. No Jaffa Cakes here either, or vinegar at the chippy. Oh Well, at least we can watch the football live in the middle of the night these days (Saturday afternoon kickoff is usually around 4am Sunday morning here).
They look awesome but I can get a 50 W Plexi point to point wired for 700 bucks finished so I think I'll keep the amp kits for some other day. But definetly getting started on kit guitars.
It's not point-to-point. It may be turret board or PCB, but virtually no one seems to know what point-to-point means. There are videos that explain what the various circuits actually are.
@hootowl6354 Thank you so much, but I am a Physics student and actually know what it is. Exactly like the original, point to point handwired. 750 shipped to Austria. Grand Amplification.
@@hootowl6354 They are made in China, handwired by expert techs and use proper components, orange drop caps and relatively vintage correct stuff, in some cases more so than big brands, they are made to order and you can have them custom made, with colourfull Tolex or whatever I think they charge around 20 bucks for non standard Tolex. The components aren't that expensive and it doesn't say Marshall and especially not Dumble on the amp and they aren't made in the UK. But a Marshall 1959 SLP HW is 2 grand, which I can't afford but I think is a very fair price and it does have an FX Loop which is nice. Grand Amps sell you basically the same thing, they are an OEM manufacturer that would usually slap a customer brand label on sell to them and they upcharge a big amount. However they also sell direct to customers and I got s quote from them for a point to point handwired 1987x 50 W WITH PPIMV master volume (comes standard on all amps, without MV) and FX Loop in white tolex. 500 something, 750 shipped to EU. I wish I had the cash to contract them as an OEM, slap on a label and sell to local stores. Hey do you want a master volume and fx loop equipped 1987x for 1100, you can probably sell it for 1500? Once they stop laughing and you plug it in, I think good business can be made. These amps aren't complex and without the brand name or desirable coubtry of origin you can make a Plexi pretty cheap. They take a about a month so there's that. KDH did a review of one of their Plexis, that he of course got in orange tolex. I'm pretty broke so I sold my DSL and got an Origin 20C used for 300€ which frankly I just fell in love with. What a wonderful amp. But the second I find another 750€ I will send an email to Grand Amps for an order of a 1987x with mv and fx loop. And if I put it on a Marshall cab, at least something says Marshall haha. I'm thinking of starting a distribution company for these things and using Marshall-esque font sell them as "Plexiglas" amps. I'd play them live so that's guaranteed to cause a few laughs and inquiries on how one would acquire such a thing... They mainly focus on real cool stuff, Plexis, JTM45 and also some less known early Marshalls like the 18 W heads, 4 input JCM 800 (used to be called "Master Volume Marshalls) and Fender as well as Dumble clones. I'm not really a Dumble fanatic but I have listened to some demos and they certainly sound very nice. Of course each Dumble was different, even all the Overdrive Specials, so the question is which one did they clone? I definetly think they owned and dissasembled a few originals, the have like 25 different models. Also I used to live near Shenzhen and that place is just a manufacturing empire. You can get every imaginable component very cheap and in huge quantities, I think at some point 80% of goods where manufactured there. It's half an hour across the border from Hong Kong. Wonderful weird place. Biy a military grade supercomputer and a fake Omega Seamaster in the same street...
I think that the metal resistors would be a better choice @ 1% but not sure if they stand up high voltage I have been looking for a JMT45 chassis and found a a supplier in China made with alloy and only just found and discovered from another channel that Modulus makes them in steel which is much better I have free returns so I might send it back.
within 10% tolerance is acceptable. Rarely will you measure a resistor and it be exactly what it is rated. very very rarely. Your measurements are all within 5% and less. to have ALL of your resistors exactly in spec would take all day long sifting and checking resistors. Build sounds great
So when Marshall built these amps in the sixties, do you think they measured all the resistors so they were all the same value ? from the info I have, it's better for the values to be slightly high, for some reason they say the makes the amp sound better.
Probably not but at the time they were the best that they had tolorences back then we're way more loose the now was a rule of thumb resistors were around 5 to 10 % capacitors around 20%
Eric Clapton has said in interviews that he shied away from marshall because they all sounded different from on another as opposed to fender where the sound was more consistent from one amp to another.
@@stevwills1445 He also changed his sound and playing style at that time. He began to write and sing using a Strat because there's loads more money in it than just playing the guitar. A much quieter set-up. All the Bluesbreakers/Cream stuff was Gibson/Marshall and being the first guy in the place to blow everyone's ears to bits using a giant Marshall in little sweaty cellars. Which we can all readily hear on live John Mayall and Cream bootlegs from the time ("Live Cream" - take a listen!) They played ultra LOUD so...tonal variations in very early still-developing Marshalls.....well.....................anyone seeing those gigs knows.....you'd be stone deaf for hours afterwards and - fact - Clapton's solo career/fame was founded on genius publicity but you'd get arrested doing it today.🤣🤣🤣🤣
Isn't +/-10% a standard tolerance on these resistors? You'd have to go to +/-1% to get the tightness you want. Two resistors with the same nominal value will never match perfectly.
Dude you need to twist the heater wires in a drill to lower the noise floor. Twisting them provides noise cancellation but you rather crazilly ran them side by side untwisted providing you zero noise cancellation. I dont know why you would do that ya dork.
I am not a Dork. Its a respected way of doing it and is recommended by the people that make the kit. facebook.com/media/set?vanity=100049629295448&set=a.725663852431251
@MatthewNorthMusic mostly because of the fact it's true. Prohibitively expensive for any normal person. Why would you pay almost the cost of the amp for just the parts 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 stupid
I own a real deal model 1987 purchased new in 1970 at the age of 15, my first real amp. It is so versatile and rewarding to use I’ve never even contemplated selling to reap the 1200% appreciation. About 15 years ago I had the time to strip it completely apart and rebuild to museum quality. I learned so much about it doing this and it is now better than new. Sold the silly 8x10 speaker it came with pretty soon after buying. I use mine with a fairly detailed programmable pedalboard system of my own design, so I almost never use it as ‘designed’. Still, that unique Marshall tone comes through clearly. It is the longest kept piece of guitar gear I’ve ever owned, just barely eclipsing my Stratocaster, for which the amp seems made.
All the wires on the turret board, you could also put small piece of mask tape on each end and mark them after soldering one at a time. Instead of checking all them with the meter. Save ⏰️. Good video 👍
I just received my Ceriatone Plexi 50 Kit. I appreciate your video.
Good luck with it
Great vid, I was thinking of tacking the 50w bass amp based on the 1986 model from modular , this video is some tease 😮
Damn you did a great job on that build and the commentary was a big plus thank you for the video I hope you make more
Thank you.
Looks like fun nuild i have a 68 small box 50w plxi its bone stock ive had many marshalls but this one is my keeper iv had it 30 years regular tune ups no problems no breakdowns RIP jim marshall best amps
I had a 1966 small box plexi sold it for £300 in 1999 had no idea of it's value but was broke at the time serial 2070 bet it's in some collection now! Paul Marshall told me in 2009 it was worth about 5 to 8 k !!!
great video Matthew, would love to hear it with presence and all tone controls on 3, gain on 10, volume on whatever the neighbours will tolerate briefly! (Angus settings) and thru a Shaffer if you have one!
Congrats on great build. 10% tolerance doesn't change much
Nice job on the build Matthew! I agree with you about using modern resistors as opposed to the carbon composite ones. Back in the day, they used them because that's what was available. Some people will say the type of resistor used affects the tone of the amp, but I'm not sure about that. When I have serviced my 50 year old Fender amps, at a minimum, I used modern resistors in the filter capacitor section, and in the bias supply.
I'm surprised you didn't first power up the amp using a variac. Maybe you did and just didn't film that part.
I probably should have as I own one but powering up without valves in if there had been trouble it would have blown the trip! But you are right
Using old type out of spec resistors does affect the tone. If you put the wrong value components in it isn,t going to be as desired. Those people who say it sounds different are correct. The bit they get wrong is it was wrong and they got used to it. Put the correct values in and it will sound as it was designed to sound. I know a hifi nerd who thinks he knows the score. He got told by some guitar amp repair guy that old capacitors sound better. What an idiot. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes I've seen comments from amp nerds that think old capacitors are better. Idiots
@@MatthewNorthMusic Great video btw. I'm just in the final stages of a Small Box Plexi build. I read that Modulus have some extra info which is useful but I can't get a reply from them. Grounding mods etc. I have some different coloured transformer wire but I'm sure I can work out what is what. I like your idea with the heater circuit. I think I'll try that if I suffer too much hum. Thanks for your help. 👍
@@andyracksthecams There are some more photos on there facebook page, i think thats where i saw the heater wires initally.
I would that the cost of the kit is by far better value for the money and satisfaction of a homebrew Marshall is well worth the effort.
Well done on the Build Matthew. Wiring looks great. I've been chasing down hum in Marshall's for ages, with some recent success. Check out "The Valve Wizard" grounding and ground schemes for some great info on how to quiet down your amp, if you even want to. A bit of hum is like the originals, but you can get them dead silent with a few changes to the ground scheme. Cheers.
The hum is very low and if you turn up everything to full the hum doesn't really increase its pretty much as it should be
@@MatthewNorthMusic My Ceriatone is dead quiet cranked. There is a little 120hz (US) hum on start up when taken out of standby, (I'm assuming from the filter caps, and choke charging). After that it is amazingly quiet for a tube amp. I used coaxial cable for any internal leads carrying signal. I was careful not to have signal wires routed near power suppl leads.
I oriented coupling caps with the the outer foil lead going to the lower impedance part of the circuit. I avoided using any components with ferrous metal in the signal path. I used star grounding. I also lined the head cab with copper tape, (which reduces hiss).
Contrary to conventional wisdom, I did use NOS carbon comp resistors in the signal path that are alleged to be noisy. The CC resistors weren't an issue. I will say that some tubes/ valves are noisier than others.
I realize you mentioned that you are satisfied with your current noise floor level, but I thought I would share some ideas for future reference in case you are interested.
Cheers.
My guy this was really great, thanks for taking the time to make this vid
those resistors are fine. do you think the original amps resistors were an better? hell marshall traded components around manytimes
What a great video ! Big thanks and new sub here from Quebec ! Did they supply detailed step by step instructions ?
Nope just a layout diagram that you can download form the website.
@@MatthewNorthMusic Thank you Matthew !
Great video, that bob dylan album is great! Rock on!
Nice job mate! Well done! Yeah I'm not fond of the old inaccurate Allen Bradley carbon composition resistors either. As you had, they can be inaccurate to start with, but then they tend to drift high in value over time as well. Better to use Vishay metal film resistors, or similar. They're more stable at high temperatures too.
That sux with the broken pot & missing resistors! How could they forget? You seemed pretty careful unboxing the thing, so I don't think you broke the pot. Lettem know mate! Have a whinge! That'll get their QA department chasing the cause, & maybe they'll pack it better next time! As for forgetting the resistors that's just carelessness & should never happen. Maybe a late Friday afternoon job or something, thing about going down the pub instead of the job at hand.
But it sounds good! Like a real one!
Valves? Cable ties? Good to hear someone call them by their proper names for a change!
I enjoyed this video mate so I'm subscribing! Cheers nev from Australia.
@MatthewNorthMusic
39:21 is there a technique to identify during the wiring-up phase which way 'round the transformer wires need to go?
Or, is it flick the standby switch, and keep your fingers crossed?
Cheers
Well I just followed the diagram but it's was wrong and yes there probably is
You want to twist your fillament wire. That cancels the AC field that those wires create, or you might introduce noise.
You can also run them in parallel
@MatthewNorthMusic no dude parallel does not cancel each other. Trust me. If you do not visit Uncle Doug channel, he explains stuff very well. BTW I am amplifier designed and builder, so you can save yourself the time and benefit from the good tip. It was meant positive.
BTW, learning from Uncle Doug is something I wish to everyone who wants to build a tube amplifier. He is a great teacher, and he has real knowledge, unlike the current influences.
As I have linked elsewhere on this thread if you go to the modulus electronics website they actually recommend it. Specifically because as well as the wires being run in parallel they are also 90 degrees to the signal wires so they are well out of the way of causing any interference.
@MatthewNorthMusic your loss, mate. I can't make you help yourself or learn things. Going from up to down is something Fender used, and it's great. But at least read about twisted pair cables and AC signals and even data cables and shielding.
The only time you do not need to twist your filament wire is when you use DC filament supply.
Why every Marshall amp and Fender amp twisted cables? Why are computer network cables twisted? Be reasonable and learn. Or just stop claiming something you understood wrong.
OK answer me this then why then are amplifiers made on printed circuit boards do the filament tracks run in parallel? And why is there no hum picked up on my amp here ? And hasn't been for over 2 years since I built it ?
Yes, it's well known that the JTM was umm.... "heavily inspired"😊 shall we say by the tweed bassman. But there are so many variables that contribute to the over all sound of a guitar amplifier that even small differences in materials, layout, etc. Can sometimes result in rather dramatic changes in tonal characteristics, response, volume and other parameters. Even though the JTM was basically a straight rip of the bassman there were still enough differences, most notably the different power tube and speaker compliments that the JTM is essentially a unique amplifier apart from its parent DNA.
The Speaker has way more relevance for the sound than the amp though. shove any half dence valve amp into some greenbacks you get an approximation to a classic marshall type sound
Thanks for this, hadn't heard of the brand of kit. I assume they can be wired for 110v US electricity? Also those glass things are called tubes, not 'valves' ;-) I'm kidding!
Yea you can get a 110v tap for the mains transformer
thanks, I figured.
@@MatthewNorthMusic
What do you think of using this for a bass with a bass cabinet? I just w 0:06
Well these have always been used for both in the past reckon be great for bass guitar
Thanks I just went to Modulus and saw they offer a bass amp kit.
Super .. I bought a 20 Watt Plexi two Knob control only ...Volume + Tone, from Ampmaker UK a few years back . I really want to buy one of these ..especially these having more controls . Do they give you a schematic ..with the kit . By the way you did a cracking job on your build very tidy looks spot on !
No schematic just a layout diagram so you need to have a good idea about what's going on.
Looks to be much the the same spec as mine. But when mine is cranked, the presence squeals when turned up. I read on the Metroamp forum that is normal for early Plexi specs, but I dunno. They were saying it's because some DC finds its way to the presence pot. Maybe that's it.
The other thing I want to solve is how when it is turned up there is very little margin between a soft note with a light touch and it going full bore blasting your face off. Just the slightest more pressure with the pick makes it go from an almost clean, soft note to full tilt. I know from experience that these amps are very sensitive like that, but this one seems more so. It does not do it so much plugging it into my Freyette Power Station, so I wonder if it's something going on between the output section and the 2x12 I use making that happen.
P.S. I grew up in Milton Keynes, but have lived in NZ for yonks now. It is impossible to get many of the parts we need for this stuff, e.g., I had to import a 0.68uF cap FFS. No Jaffa Cakes here either, or vinegar at the chippy. Oh Well, at least we can watch the football live in the middle of the night these days (Saturday afternoon kickoff is usually around 4am Sunday morning here).
Where did you get the Matthew logo made?
Someone on eBay
They look awesome but I can get a 50 W Plexi point to point wired for 700 bucks finished so I think I'll keep the amp kits for some other day. But definetly getting started on kit guitars.
Where? Where?
It's not point-to-point. It may be turret board or PCB, but virtually no one seems to know what point-to-point means. There are videos that explain what the various circuits actually are.
@hootowl6354 Thank you so much, but I am a Physics student and actually know what it is. Exactly like the original, point to point handwired. 750 shipped to Austria. Grand Amplification.
@@stratolestele7611 Grand Amplification...
@@hootowl6354 They are made in China, handwired by expert techs and use proper components, orange drop caps and relatively vintage correct stuff, in some cases more so than big brands, they are made to order and you can have them custom made, with colourfull Tolex or whatever I think they charge around 20 bucks for non standard Tolex. The components aren't that expensive and it doesn't say Marshall and especially not Dumble on the amp and they aren't made in the UK. But a Marshall 1959 SLP HW is 2 grand, which I can't afford but I think is a very fair price and it does have an FX Loop which is nice. Grand Amps sell you basically the same thing, they are an OEM manufacturer that would usually slap a customer brand label on sell to them and they upcharge a big amount. However they also sell direct to customers and I got s quote from them for a point to point handwired 1987x 50 W WITH PPIMV master volume (comes standard on all amps, without MV) and FX Loop in white tolex. 500 something, 750 shipped to EU. I wish I had the cash to contract them as an OEM, slap on a label and sell to local stores. Hey do you want a master volume and fx loop equipped 1987x for 1100, you can probably sell it for 1500? Once they stop laughing and you plug it in, I think good business can be made. These amps aren't complex and without the brand name or desirable coubtry of origin you can make a Plexi pretty cheap. They take a about a month so there's that. KDH did a review of one of their Plexis, that he of course got in orange tolex. I'm pretty broke so I sold my DSL and got an Origin 20C used for 300€ which frankly I just fell in love with. What a wonderful amp. But the second I find another 750€ I will send an email to Grand Amps for an order of a 1987x with mv and fx loop. And if I put it on a Marshall cab, at least something says Marshall haha. I'm thinking of starting a distribution company for these things and using Marshall-esque font sell them as "Plexiglas" amps. I'd play them live so that's guaranteed to cause a few laughs and inquiries on how one would acquire such a thing... They mainly focus on real cool stuff, Plexis, JTM45 and also some less known early Marshalls like the 18 W heads, 4 input JCM 800 (used to be called "Master Volume Marshalls) and Fender as well as Dumble clones. I'm not really a Dumble fanatic but I have listened to some demos and they certainly sound very nice. Of course each Dumble was different, even all the Overdrive Specials, so the question is which one did they clone? I definetly think they owned and dissasembled a few originals, the have like 25 different models. Also I used to live near Shenzhen and that place is just a manufacturing empire. You can get every imaginable component very cheap and in huge quantities, I think at some point 80% of goods where manufactured there. It's half an hour across the border from Hong Kong. Wonderful weird place. Biy a military grade supercomputer and a fake Omega Seamaster in the same street...
...some guitarplayer patch the channels to mix the channels. Is it possible to use this as a fx-loop?
Nope sorry
I think that the metal resistors would be a better choice @ 1% but not sure if they stand up high voltage
I have been looking for a JMT45 chassis and found a a supplier in China made with alloy and only just found and discovered from another channel that Modulus makes them in steel which is much better I have free returns so I might send it back.
Around the 40 minute mark… why did you swap out one of the output valves? The one behind the OT is considerably shorter than the other one.
Haha no I didn't swap anything out, i added a little gadget that splits out the cathode pin so I can measure the current with a multimeter.
great video!
Thank you.
within 10% tolerance is acceptable. Rarely will you measure a resistor and it be exactly what it is rated. very very rarely. Your measurements are all within 5% and less. to have ALL of your resistors exactly in spec would take all day long sifting and checking resistors. Build sounds great
So when Marshall built these amps in the sixties, do you think they measured all the resistors so they were all the same value ? from the info I have, it's better for the values to be slightly high, for some reason they say the makes the amp sound better.
Probably not but at the time they were the best that they had tolorences back then we're way more loose the now was a rule of thumb resistors were around 5 to 10 % capacitors around 20%
Eric Clapton has said in interviews that he shied away from marshall because they all sounded different from on another as opposed to fender where the sound was more consistent from one amp to another.
That's funny as he was one of the most famous marshal men.Fender paid him a small fortune to swap.@@stevwills1445
@@stevwills1445 He also changed his sound and playing style at that time. He began to write and sing using a Strat because there's loads more money in it than just playing the guitar. A much quieter set-up. All the Bluesbreakers/Cream stuff was Gibson/Marshall and being the first guy in the place to blow everyone's ears to bits using a giant Marshall in little sweaty cellars. Which we can all readily hear on live John Mayall and Cream bootlegs from the time ("Live Cream" - take a listen!) They played ultra LOUD so...tonal variations in very early still-developing Marshalls.....well.....................anyone seeing those gigs knows.....you'd be stone deaf for hours afterwards and - fact - Clapton's solo career/fame was founded on genius publicity but you'd get arrested doing it today.🤣🤣🤣🤣
Matt where did you get your name logo from or did you make it?
eBay do a search
I 've never seen heater cables done that way, normally they would be twisted and close to chassis ground :-) How is the hum ?
This is the recommended way of doing it that modulus amplification suggested. Appears to be quite a good idea because there's no heater hum at all.
The resistor value changes are totally normal.
who makes the iron?
Antex
silver band is 10% tolerance, gold band is 5%, no band is 20%. They are in tolerance, it's fine...
i wish i know how to do wiring and knew all that stuff....my rig would be amazing. but im just to dumb.to much adhd in the brain
Please give us the scheme
Isn't +/-10% a standard tolerance on these resistors? You'd have to go to +/-1% to get the tightness you want. Two resistors with the same nominal value will never match perfectly.
At best you'll blow the place up. No pressure.
Dude you need to twist the heater wires in a drill to lower the noise floor. Twisting them provides noise cancellation but you rather crazilly ran them side by side untwisted providing you zero noise cancellation. I dont know why you would do that ya dork.
I am not a Dork. Its a respected way of doing it and is recommended by the people that make the kit.
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LOL at 'ya dork'. I think that was meant in jest.
Price of amp kits is stupid.just absolutely stupid
Why do you think that?
@MatthewNorthMusic mostly because of the fact it's true. Prohibitively expensive for any normal person. Why would you pay almost the cost of the amp for just the parts 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 stupid
@HAHb-zc2dp a hand wired plexi is over double what I paid for this
It takes time and infrastructure to gather parts, inventory them, bag them, send them, etc., etc. I'm not sure you're factoring everything in.
@@MatthewNorthMusic And it may go up in value over the long-term. Yours will go down in value. But hey, it's fun and rewarding to build your own.