Great video! I just replaced my radiator and your instructions were great. There are just 2 things I would recommend: 1. Disconnect the wiring for the fans, but leave the fans on the radiator and take them off once you pull the radiator out. Easier to remove and swap out. 2. For the transmission fluids lines, the 2 bolts that hold the plastic underbody tray fit perfectly in the hoses to use as plugs.
@@JimmysAutoClinic it's been great to shout to my 14 year old to get the exact right socket size several times and explain why we're doing what we're doing. I'm almost convinced I know what I'm doing! Thanks for everything.
@@JimmysAutoClinicnah, you obviously earned it. Top notch stuff here. Feel free to tear a 2011 outback down to ground and rebuild so I don't have to sell this one. It'd be appreciated, hahaha. I have a strong distrust of this car (I hate it, most of the time, for cvt reasons and maintenance in general.)
I can definitely understand that. There is quite a bit of stupidity revolving around the cvt. But I will tell you they're not the worst CVT and decently reliable if maintained well. I think the biggest issue with most Subarus is finding someone who is capable of maintaining them well. Most times people are afraid of fixing them just because they are different. I will definitely be posting more stuff about the Outback because I myself am getting one eventually but it is a 6-speed unfortunately for you and fortunately for me :-) if you have any general questions don't hesitate to reach out.
Nice job👍 Just one note - never use worm clamps on plastic rads. Use the stock spring clamps. If the hose blows off the rad with the stock clamp, means you have a major problem that needs to be addressed( blown head gasket/ thermostat stuck shut) . Worm clamps only ever on a solid fitting made of steel or aluminum , never plastic.
Hey my friend I appreciate the advice. Me personally I've been using worm camps for quite a while. I get what you're saying but I think if you use a quality worm clamp and you're not overly aggressive with it it won't pose an issue. But yes spring clamps if you can get your hands on good ones if yours are bad are the way to go.
@@JimmysAutoClinic I subscribed. I replaced my radiator in my 2011 Subaru Outback. Your mentoring skills and style is impressive. Thank your for the vicarious help. With warm regards, Bob Kinsley
It is a quarter inch 8 mm Snap-on impact shallow swivel socket on a 6-in extension with a quarter inch ratchet on the end. Glad you found the video useful.
Hey, I appreciate the comment. Generally you don't lose much fluid at all that's why the majority of the time I don't top up the transmission. I did in the video but I usually shove a bolt into the cooler lines so that you don't lose much fluid and I also use a hose pinch to clamp the hoses off. If you would like to see how to top up your transmission I will have a video for a CVT coming soon and if you have a automatic I have a few videos already on how to top up and adjust transmission fluid. Thanks for watching I hope this helps call me if you have any questions feel free to reach out.
Hey my friend, sometimes there are differences for certain models. I'm not sure if there are for your particular model. The best thing to do is to take the VIN number from your car as well as the parts car to find out if there are any differences between the two. Call your local dealership and they should be able to help you at the parts department. I hope this helps you. Good luck
Got the parts. Now I’m working on removing the transmission hoses line. What’s the advise to installing the bolts back on the Thermostat housing? I’m working on my garage so limited access from under the vehicle with my jack.
If you have the whole front of the vehicle up in the ear use jack stands to take the weight off of the Jack and then remove the Jack so you can gain access to the front. Do not work on your vehicle with just a jack
If the #3 Phillip screws of radiator use to release the coolant breaks easily. Could I release the coolant thru the lower hose? The specs call out for coolant conditioner. What is your thought on this?
You can definitely get the coolant out of the system by removing the lower radiator hose. Coolant conditioner is not something that is a bad thing. Subaru does sell it and use it. But in my experience if the vehicle has been maintained it's not really needed. But it's not a harmful thing and you can use it if you like.
You didn’t address anything about the “Liquid gold” that was in the radiator you just pulled. You just expect there to be enough to refill the cooler in the radiator without even checking? This is the main reason I watched your video TBH
Sorry I didn't mean to leave you hanging. I would have mentioned if I needed to top up the CVT fluid there is absolutely no need to top it up. We lost literally less than 20 ml of fluid from it dripping out of the line when it was pulled. What I can tell you is let the vehicle sit for a while and before you start the job so that it cools off. As it cools off the CVT fluid will slowly drain out of the lines a bit, so you won't have as much fluid draining out. Make sure you plug the lines when you pull them off of your radiator and you won't lose that much fluid. What you can do is use a cup to collect the fluid you shouldn't have very much in the cup at all. Losing a bit of fluid won't make any difference with performance so don't stress. There is more than enough fluid to fill up the cooler. They are really small and don't take more than 100 to 200 mL of fluid which really won't make any difference. Hope this helps you out my friend. Good luck don't forget to subscribe to the channel.
Depending on your skill level that may be necessary but as long as you're aware of what you're doing you're not going to hurt any components with the battery terminal connected.
@@JimmysAutoClinic very good to know. Since I only have a cold water faucet I always make sure the engine is very hot. This allows steam to form for better cleaning.
Another trick I found, is even easier. My neighbors put a pond in their backyard. It's only 20'x20' or so, but they made one end slope down into it with sand. When I get back from off-roading in my jeep all day, I'm usually tired. So one night ( there was a full moon so I could see), I just floored it into the other side. It worked great, I got steam (cleaned the engine bay fantasticly) and got most of the mud off the bottom and sides. Awesome. I tried it once in the winter to get all that salt off, but the ice was too thick. They wouldn't let me try it again though, I hit their ice shanny. Needless to say, they were not very happy and told me only to it in the summer when the kids were NOT in it. **update ** the other day, when I got back home (tired as heck) I did my old trusty. Ran it through like usual, but the next day, I found a puddle of antifreeze under my jeep in the garage. I tightened the hose clamps threw in three bottles of that flaky aluminum powder (Blue devil brand, for the leaky heater-core. Thanks again to Rick at AZ for the advice; link below), so far so good. www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/stop-leak/p/bluedevil-coolant-stop-leak/115557_0_0?spps.s=2144&cmpid=LIA%3AUS%3AEN%3AAD%3ANL%3A1000000%3APER%3A19488533498&&CATARGETID=120054150001289347&CADevice=m&gclid=Cj0KCQjwib2mBhDWARIsAPZUn_kvVvyuNkHimBu7JajkgesotbFHbj27ATbvMImqm6RUUwAQKTNkRsUaAoaDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hey Hunter if you don't have a cooling system bleeder funnel, what you can do is like I did in the video employ the use of a funnel that fits in the neck. What you're going to do is plug in a scanner that can tell you what the engine coolant temperature is. Make sure the temperature does not exceed 100° Celsius while coming up to temperature if it does I would shut it down until you have heat coming through your heater core inside the vehicle that will ensure that you have minimal air in the system. It may bubble over don't be alarmed just add as needed continue to have the temperature come up to operating temperature once your fans cycle on and off a couple of times and you have heat in the passenger compartment from your heater core you should be good to go then just top off your system as needed the following morning when the engine is cold. Hopefully I explained everything in this video if not you can check out some of my other videos on radiator replacement I'm pretty sure I explained the same process in those videos.
Great video! I just replaced my radiator and your instructions were great. There are just 2 things I would recommend: 1. Disconnect the wiring for the fans, but leave the fans on the radiator and take them off once you pull the radiator out. Easier to remove and swap out. 2. For the transmission fluids lines, the 2 bolts that hold the plastic underbody tray fit perfectly in the hoses to use as plugs.
Jimmy, thanks to your excellent photography and detailed explanations, I did it! Thanks so much!
I'm glad I could be of assistance, please subscribe to the channel if you haven't already 🙂✌
This is the best. I've watched 4 times to prepare for this job.
Awesome I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
@@JimmysAutoClinic it's been great to shout to my 14 year old to get the exact right socket size several times and explain why we're doing what we're doing. I'm almost convinced I know what I'm doing! Thanks for everything.
LOL I Can Only Imagine the joy. I'm glad I could help. Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
@@JimmysAutoClinicnah, you obviously earned it. Top notch stuff here. Feel free to tear a 2011 outback down to ground and rebuild so I don't have to sell this one. It'd be appreciated, hahaha. I have a strong distrust of this car (I hate it, most of the time, for cvt reasons and maintenance in general.)
I can definitely understand that. There is quite a bit of stupidity revolving around the cvt. But I will tell you they're not the worst CVT and decently reliable if maintained well. I think the biggest issue with most Subarus is finding someone who is capable of maintaining them well. Most times people are afraid of fixing them just because they are different. I will definitely be posting more stuff about the Outback because I myself am getting one eventually but it is a 6-speed unfortunately for you and fortunately for me :-) if you have any general questions don't hesitate to reach out.
The last 3-4 minutes are just hilarious...Thanks for the video :)
Hey thanks for watching :-)
Bro you are super informative and funny . Great video .
Love the candid how to video. The curse words really have me giggling pretty hard.
Nice job👍
Just one note - never use worm clamps on plastic rads. Use the stock spring clamps. If the hose blows off the rad with the stock clamp, means you have a major problem that needs to be addressed( blown head gasket/ thermostat stuck shut) . Worm clamps only ever on a solid fitting made of steel or aluminum , never plastic.
Hey my friend I appreciate the advice. Me personally I've been using worm camps for quite a while. I get what you're saying but I think if you use a quality worm clamp and you're not overly aggressive with it it won't pose an issue. But yes spring clamps if you can get your hands on good ones if yours are bad are the way to go.
Very informative and entertaining too. Really helped my radiator instal
Thanks for the comment Pete, I'm glad it helped you out.
Nice work as per usual!!
Nice video,
Thank you
Thank you for watching.
Tomorrows job for me down here in Australia…
I hope it goes well mate :-)
Great video. It was very helpful to me. Thank you
I'm glad you found the video useful Bob. Please hit that subscribe button if you haven't already..
@@JimmysAutoClinic I subscribed. I replaced my radiator in my 2011 Subaru Outback. Your mentoring skills and style is impressive. Thank your for the vicarious help. With warm regards,
Bob Kinsley
Thank you. I really appreciate the comment. It makes the long hours of editing and time spent making these videos well worth it.
At 29:27 what swivel sockets are you using with what screwdriver? Thank you for the video
It is a quarter inch 8 mm Snap-on impact shallow swivel socket on a 6-in extension with a quarter inch ratchet on the end. Glad you found the video useful.
Jimmy your the best. You made this ratiator swap a dream. But I noticed you didn't top off the transmission. It that top off nessasary?
Hey, I appreciate the comment. Generally you don't lose much fluid at all that's why the majority of the time I don't top up the transmission. I did in the video but I usually shove a bolt into the cooler lines so that you don't lose much fluid and I also use a hose pinch to clamp the hoses off. If you would like to see how to top up your transmission I will have a video for a CVT coming soon and if you have a automatic I have a few videos already on how to top up and adjust transmission fluid. Thanks for watching I hope this helps call me if you have any questions feel free to reach out.
good vid :)
Thank you.
I have a 2010 and at the local auto part. They have two different radiators for my model. Are there different sizes needed for certain outback ?
Hey my friend, sometimes there are differences for certain models. I'm not sure if there are for your particular model. The best thing to do is to take the VIN number from your car as well as the parts car to find out if there are any differences between the two. Call your local dealership and they should be able to help you at the parts department. I hope this helps you. Good luck
Got the parts. Now I’m working on removing the transmission hoses line. What’s the advise to installing the bolts back on the Thermostat housing? I’m working on my garage so limited access from under the vehicle with my jack.
If you have the whole front of the vehicle up in the ear use jack stands to take the weight off of the Jack and then remove the Jack so you can gain access to the front. Do not work on your vehicle with just a jack
@@JimmysAutoClinic was able to use jack stands but I did everything from above to remove most of the items. Thanks for your video.
No problem. I'm glad you found the video useful.
Good stuff jimmy
Thank you 🙂
If the #3 Phillip screws of radiator use to release the coolant breaks easily. Could I release the coolant thru the lower hose? The specs call out for coolant conditioner. What is your thought on this?
You can definitely get the coolant out of the system by removing the lower radiator hose. Coolant conditioner is not something that is a bad thing. Subaru does sell it and use it. But in my experience if the vehicle has been maintained it's not really needed. But it's not a harmful thing and you can use it if you like.
You didn’t address anything about the “Liquid gold” that was in the radiator you just pulled. You just expect there to be enough to refill the cooler in the radiator without even checking? This is the main reason I watched your video TBH
Sorry I didn't mean to leave you hanging. I would have mentioned if I needed to top up the CVT fluid there is absolutely no need to top it up. We lost literally less than 20 ml of fluid from it dripping out of the line when it was pulled. What I can tell you is let the vehicle sit for a while and before you start the job so that it cools off. As it cools off the CVT fluid will slowly drain out of the lines a bit, so you won't have as much fluid draining out. Make sure you plug the lines when you pull them off of your radiator and you won't lose that much fluid. What you can do is use a cup to collect the fluid you shouldn't have very much in the cup at all. Losing a bit of fluid won't make any difference with performance so don't stress. There is more than enough fluid to fill up the cooler. They are really small and don't take more than 100 to 200 mL of fluid which really won't make any difference. Hope this helps you out my friend. Good luck don't forget to subscribe to the channel.
Never ever wash an engine bay everrrrrr unless your a professional detailer. Great info other than that.
And remove the negative battery terminal before starting the project. Especially, before power washing.
Depending on your skill level that may be necessary but as long as you're aware of what you're doing you're not going to hurt any components with the battery terminal connected.
@@JimmysAutoClinic very good to know. Since I only have a cold water faucet I always make sure the engine is very hot. This allows steam to form for better cleaning.
Another trick I found, is even easier. My neighbors put a pond in their backyard. It's only 20'x20' or so, but they made one end slope down into it with sand. When I get back from off-roading in my jeep all day, I'm usually tired. So one night ( there was a full moon so I could see), I just floored it into the other side. It worked great, I got steam (cleaned the engine bay fantasticly) and got most of the mud off the bottom and sides. Awesome. I tried it once in the winter to get all that salt off, but the ice was too thick. They wouldn't let me try it again though, I hit their ice shanny. Needless to say, they were not very happy and told me only to it in the summer when the kids were NOT in it.
**update ** the other day, when I got back home (tired as heck) I did my old trusty. Ran it through like usual, but the next day, I found a puddle of antifreeze under my jeep in the garage. I tightened the hose clamps threw in three bottles of that flaky aluminum powder (Blue devil brand, for the leaky heater-core. Thanks again to Rick at AZ for the advice; link below), so far so good.
www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/stop-leak/p/bluedevil-coolant-stop-leak/115557_0_0?spps.s=2144&cmpid=LIA%3AUS%3AEN%3AAD%3ANL%3A1000000%3APER%3A19488533498&&CATARGETID=120054150001289347&CADevice=m&gclid=Cj0KCQjwib2mBhDWARIsAPZUn_kvVvyuNkHimBu7JajkgesotbFHbj27ATbvMImqm6RUUwAQKTNkRsUaAoaDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
How do I bleed the system?
Hey Hunter if you don't have a cooling system bleeder funnel, what you can do is like I did in the video employ the use of a funnel that fits in the neck. What you're going to do is plug in a scanner that can tell you what the engine coolant temperature is. Make sure the temperature does not exceed 100° Celsius while coming up to temperature if it does I would shut it down until you have heat coming through your heater core inside the vehicle that will ensure that you have minimal air in the system. It may bubble over don't be alarmed just add as needed continue to have the temperature come up to operating temperature once your fans cycle on and off a couple of times and you have heat in the passenger compartment from your heater core you should be good to go then just top off your system as needed the following morning when the engine is cold. Hopefully I explained everything in this video if not you can check out some of my other videos on radiator replacement I'm pretty sure I explained the same process in those videos.