Nice video which will be of great help to beginners, so well done. Just a couple of observations. You seem to have your jib boom nice and low but then you have the jib rigged rather high which is defeating the object a little. You'll find that lowering the jib right down to the boom fitting will be better. That goes for the mainsail as well, as that is too high also. Lower both to almost the the top of the fitting, maybe just a 2mm above when the Cunningham's are max off. It may not seem much, but it improves the righting moment quite a lot. Also, I've found that running the Cunningham lines through the cringles tends to distort the sail shape, so try having a single line downhaul on both sails instead, as this gives a smoother shape. In Australia, we measure the jib slot/twist from the leech to the centre of the mast, not the topping lift line. We generally run this at 50mm. With your measurement of 50mm from the leech to topping lift line, it would equate to about 60 to 65mm which I think is too much. We are running 45mm on the boom angle which is approximately at the edge of the gunwale. Anyway, give these few things a try and let me know what you think. :)
Topping lift is what that jib leech adjustment line is called. Nice vid. I think in Oz we tend to sail fairly open and the stock ripstop sails can be made to perform very well if allowed to breathe.
very helpful for a new sailor, as was your video on basic racing rules. Question, in this video you showed a sheet with all the trim numbers and I believe you said it would be attached but I don't see it linked or attached. I've ordered the DF 65 but apparently it won't be until the end of June before I get it, so just trying to learn ahead so to speak. Again, great job on your videos, thank you, Sean Kelly
It's great to finally see a tuning video for the DF65. However, your main sheet bridle ring is too low, which is why the leech of the main closes @ 7:40 in the video. The main sheet is not supposed to pull down on the boom when close hauled. You don't want the leech to close or open when sheeting in or out. The twist in the main should remain constant. This also causes increased load on your sail winch which can lead to burnout or increased battery drain. The bridle ring should be directly below the boom when sheeted in fully and the boom should be off center by a few millimeters. This ensures there is mostly only side force tension on the main sheet and not down force tension.
Yes, good point Scratchy. You can also feel a vibration if your winch is hauling down on the mainsheet. You don't want that as it flattens your battery faster and can also lead to with failure.
However, if you have that ability based on the trim setting it can be used to pinch up under a windward boat or to make a mark. As said here, not ideal at all times but a useful tactic to have.
Patrick, do you have a guide like this for the 95? I see others but they are all a bunch of guys just kind of all over the map. Yours is straight to the point. Thanks.
great video, i think you mean millimeters not centimeters but, lol Also noticed you have a nice upgrade boom vang and wanted to know where you got it, cheers
Great video but I have some questions. Step #2: sliding the jib boom back. What is the number for the v6+ jib booms and where should I measure from? Mine doesn't have that ring. Also Step #3: measuring from front eye to mast vang, 176mm has the mast step position in between the last 2 notch/marks. Definitely not middle notch. Seems like a big difference.
Hi Patrick your video is fantastic and very informative. I"m a new sailor and don"t know all the terminology can I get some info on running the out haul lines . I can do all the stuff in your vid but i figure if the out hauls are not right it will throw every thing else off . Yours look different than how mine are . Any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Mast rake has me confused. I measure 780mm with backstay/forestay completely off, and I have to put the forestay 100% on to achieve 785mm of rake. Mast step position is centered, 176mm from front eyelet. I also loosened the vang and cunningham all the way - can't get 785mm of rake without maxing out the forestay tension. Any help would be appreciated... is my mast step skewed? Maybe the mast is bent?
Isn't it generally better to slacken the tensions in light airs so the sail forms more of a foil than being flat?? The change in adjustments seem very subtle, as though a small tweak will make quite a big difference??
Would you happen to have a video on HOW to RIG this thing? I bought a DF95 and still confused on HOW to ACTUALLY rig it up. Have started to with the manual, but VERY new to sailing and its just frustrating. Thanks in advance.
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Nice video which will be of great help to beginners, so well done. Just a couple of observations. You seem to have your jib boom nice and low but then you have the jib rigged rather high which is defeating the object a little. You'll find that lowering the jib right down to the boom fitting will be better. That goes for the mainsail as well, as that is too high also. Lower both to almost the the top of the fitting, maybe just a 2mm above when the Cunningham's are max off. It may not seem much, but it improves the righting moment quite a lot. Also, I've found that running the Cunningham lines through the cringles tends to distort the sail shape, so try having a single line downhaul on both sails instead, as this gives a smoother shape.
In Australia, we measure the jib slot/twist from the leech to the centre of the mast, not the topping lift line. We generally run this at 50mm. With your measurement of 50mm from the leech to topping lift line, it would equate to about 60 to 65mm which I think is too much. We are running 45mm on the boom angle which is approximately at the edge of the gunwale.
Anyway, give these few things a try and let me know what you think. :)
Hold my beer... awesomeness .... probably the only RC sport where you could drink and drive. 🤙🏻👍🏻😎
I used to fly my mavic pro pissed, if you get in trouble just let go of everything and it goes back to a hover, great fun 😂😂
I followed your setup and have had a fair bit of racing success. Thank you very much for the video. Great job.
Thanks Patrick!!
Topping lift is what that jib leech adjustment line is called. Nice vid. I think in Oz we tend to sail fairly open and the stock ripstop sails can be made to perform very well if allowed to breathe.
Thanks mate, very good video as far as tuning is concerned. Really good explainations et great viewpoints all the way through your video. Many thanks.
very helpful for a new sailor, as was your video on basic racing rules. Question, in this video you showed a sheet with all the trim numbers and I believe you said it would be attached but I don't see it linked or attached. I've ordered the DF 65 but apparently it won't be until the end of June before I get it, so just trying to learn ahead so to speak. Again, great job on your videos, thank you,
Sean Kelly
Thank you for your tutorial especially on low wind settings and high wind settings. I'll be putting that into practice
It's great to finally see a tuning video for the DF65.
However, your main sheet bridle ring is too low, which is why the leech of the main closes @ 7:40 in the video.
The main sheet is not supposed to pull down on the boom when close hauled.
You don't want the leech to close or open when sheeting in or out. The twist in the main should remain constant.
This also causes increased load on your sail winch which can lead to burnout or increased battery drain.
The bridle ring should be directly below the boom when sheeted in fully and the boom should be off center by a few millimeters.
This ensures there is mostly only side force tension on the main sheet and not down force tension.
Yes, good point Scratchy. You can also feel a vibration if your winch is hauling down on the mainsheet. You don't want that as it flattens your battery faster and can also lead to with failure.
However, if you have that ability based on the trim setting it can be used to pinch up under a windward boat or to make a mark. As said here, not ideal at all times but a useful tactic to have.
Great job Patrick. Followed you setup and got a huge improvement.
Patrick, do you have a guide like this for the 95? I see others but they are all a bunch of guys just kind of all over the map. Yours is straight to the point. Thanks.
Great video ,to understanding sailtrim ,thanks
Best tuning guide
were are those files?, with all the diff settings?, could you link a manual? .,
Thank you. That was a great help.
Oh you are the one that got 007. Nice video. Thanks for doing it. Love the dragons
great video, i think you mean millimeters not centimeters but, lol Also noticed you have a nice upgrade boom vang and wanted to know where you got it, cheers
thank you for the tutorial. very clear and straight to the point. will you be doing tuning guide for df95? thank you for sharing. joseph. singapore
Great video but I have some questions. Step #2: sliding the jib boom back. What is the number for the v6+ jib booms and where should I measure from? Mine doesn't have that ring. Also Step #3: measuring from front eye to mast vang, 176mm has the mast step position in between the last 2 notch/marks. Definitely not middle notch. Seems like a big difference.
Brilliant - thank you!
Hello, do you think those measurements still apply for the newest V7? I want to buy a V7 but I don't see nowhere a specific tuning sheet for it.
Hi Patrick your video is fantastic and very informative. I"m a new sailor and don"t know all the terminology can I get some info on running the out haul lines . I can do all the stuff in your vid but i figure if the out hauls are not right it will throw every thing else off . Yours look different than how mine are . Any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks
You keep saying centimetres instead of millimetres. Big difference
AND HE KEEPS SAYING IT.... arhghghg
As if often the case, free content is usually worth what you paid for it.
@@admiralbeez8143 Be nice. He's an American. Kudos for even knowing that the metric system exists.
Count yourself lucky he’s not saying 4 32nds of an inch! Most civilized places in Europe you won’t even find a ruler with inches on it!
Very good except I think you could always show both ends of the tape. Really not sure where the end of tape is especially on mast rake.
When will you do a DF95? Thanks
Is it possible to make this measures to the stock rig A for DF65 v6?
Mast rake has me confused. I measure 780mm with backstay/forestay completely off, and I have to put the forestay 100% on to achieve 785mm of rake. Mast step position is centered, 176mm from front eyelet. I also loosened the vang and cunningham all the way - can't get 785mm of rake without maxing out the forestay tension.
Any help would be appreciated... is my mast step skewed? Maybe the mast is bent?
Hey I noticed you have the jib counterweight out quite a bit from the settings in the manual. How far in mm should counterweight be?
Isn't it generally better to slacken the tensions in light airs so the sail forms more of a foil than being flat?? The change in adjustments seem very subtle, as though a small tweak will make quite a big difference??
Maybe sheet out 5mm, but definitely reduce the leech twist to spill less air when it's light.
I have just bought one of these boats the video is very helpfull thanks you ..
Would you happen to have a video on HOW to RIG this thing? I bought a DF95 and still confused on HOW to ACTUALLY rig it up. Have started to with the manual, but VERY new to sailing and its just frustrating. Thanks in advance.
Great!
Who made that stand? Looks SWEEEEET.
8:51 is that a metal Cunningham adjuster? My DF65 came with a bowsie and like for this. Is this legal?
You can buy the old one and run it if you want. They did replace it on the V6 for a reason that you're likely to discover.
Danke für video! Es were gut, wenn Information wird textual auch, - für bessere Übersetzung...
IS this for v6....
yes, it is... and works very well !
2:47 I realise metric is difficult for Americans, but 785cm is 7.85m, or about 16 feet. 4:43 20-25cm is 8-10 inches. MILLIMETERS.
You keep saying centimetres - you mean milimetres. But its ok since US is *still* using the imperial system!