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Your channel just keeps getting better. You have faced adversity time and again like no one else on TH-cam. It makes you stronger it gives you clarity and shows your high intelligence quotient. Thank you for continuing on.
17:00 I'm a painter of 45 years, if I've leared anything about wood and water over that time, and I was building this boat, I'd be sure to finish that plywood decking with primer, paint, fiberglass resin, something, anything. Even if it's marine grade plywood. It takes much less time at this stage to do, then it does to tear everything apart later, once everything's been built. Overkill ? Probably, but thats just me. Better safe than sorry.
i got 12 years out of that timber on my pontoon boat. changed it to king starboard plastic Marine-Grade Polymer Sheet never have to replace again but 10 x the price
@@mountaintopperthe plywood definitely should be completely coated and encased. Old and cheap boats didn’t and that’s why they need floors all the time. Marine plywood is honestly a waste. Regular plywood properly sealed is just as good for far less, otherwise spend the extra for Coosa, Starboard and acrylic (depending on where it’s being used). Epoxy resin is a waste too. It’s much more expensive than polyester and if you’re relocating it anyway, gel coat is polyester and adheres better to polyester resin. Epoxy resin should be painted over, not gel coated. Also, if you use laminating resin you don’t need to sand between coats. If you want a smooth gel coat surface on top, use laminating polyester resin, then top coat it with gel coat that has wax in it.
Very exciting. One or two suggestions: First, please consider installing a small porthole into the wall of the head (bathroom). It will add light and more importantly it will add ventilation. Much nicer for users! You can can buy a small rain shield for it, and if it is installed on the outboard side of the structure no one will be able to peek in. Next, please look into top quality marine hoses especially made for toilet discharge use. Hoses not made for toilet discharge use start to reek through the plastic quickly.
A little tip on running small cables for a plastic pipe if you tie a bit of plastic bag to the end of the cable and get a vacuum cleaner on the other end of the pipe. It will suck the cable through the pipe to where you need to be. You’re welcome.
BTW, the back end of a marine vessel has almost as much impact on the hydrodynamics as the front end. In other words, a flat stern will create nearly as much drag as a totally flat bow (a blunt bow means the vessel has a harder time PUSHING the water out of the way an equally a flat back end literally "sucks" the boat from moving forward. And so, IF you can be bothered to give the front some nautical shape shape, please give the back end some ship-like qualities and do something appropriate at the rear end... or it will go even slower than you currentl expect!!! The same principles apply to the hot-tub, You might even notice the difference!!!
B is for Titanic - I wonder if things will break if that big flat box with a 2000 lb hot tub in it gets above and out of the water and slams back down. My guess is the hot tub will blast right thru the floor and go down to Davey Jones Locker.
You do not want your sinks going to black water...that is considered gray water and usually is not a problem going over side....50gal is nothing with sinks attached to it as well as the shitter.....do a bit more checking if you have not already on gray water regulations for your boating area.....
@@briannicholls2628I would consider it plenty for a boat personally. Unless he was spending weeks or more at a time on it and never returning to dump it.
✌️👍 Soldier a little bit of advise for you.... where you have the crossovers..... make some sort of access point at the top of that crossover.. if you ever have to run new wires for some reason and you don't have that access to those keys you're going to have problems I've ran into the same issue myself... 👍✌️
if you run long strings down each path and keep lots of extra at the start to pull multiple sets of wires down each hole you can put it all together so you can run wires as you need them with the deck on
I can't imagine the cost you're going to incur when you move this to the water. It's bigger than a shipping container in all dimensions and no doubt you'll need an escort to travel. Good luck
Don't forget that hot tubs have lots of electrical stuff "exposed" down inside their enclosures. You will need to be sure that water cannot flood that big box you're going to set it in, and that you "will" need access to the pumps, valves, and electrical circuits down under the hot tub. Plus, even though the marine grade plywood is marine grade, it would be smart to paint it, top, bottom and edges before installing it permanently.
Surprised no one has mentioned this. Plywood has different face grades, Chris is using Marine Ply and in his case it's B/C grade. All the sections where the stamp is visible on his deck is C grade and should be flipped so the better B side is showing.
If you don't leave access for equipment repair on the hot tub you will hate yourself later. You will most likely have to drain the unit and pull it out of the hole. just some friendly advice from a 12 year Spa Repair technician.
In the video, after they put on the tabs to mount it, it almost looked like they had cut a small square out of the top near the rear of it and welded a piece back in. I wonder if they did that to look in the tank.
@@jiminauburn5073that square plate is where they cut off the old outlet pipe and welded it shut, then proceeded to put in a bigger diameter pipe closer to the end of the tank.
Hey Chris.. You should make a storage hatch compartment in the triangle area in front of the hot tub.. for life jackets, anchor, etc... just a thought.. CHEERS!!!
I don't know what you're putting in between your hot tub and that void but I would use some two-part mixture that would create a foam like spray foam to create more rigid as well as insulation for the hot tub and also if need buoyancy
Any water T fitting is going to be inaccessible later if you have to replace a wire. Installing side or back access pvc T conduit fittings would be a good idea. There is a removable access plate so you can completely assemble conduit then pull wire. And replace wire later if necessary.
This project is perfect for an epic long bowsprit, these structures are exciting to stand on when a boat is underway, and your boat size would support an extremely long one, perhaps a folding design that can be deployed when on the water.
I’m going to make a presentation: this pontoon is probably going to tilt forward and to starboard. The hot tub water looks to be really heavy. Same goes for the stairs and bathroom (head).
As far as i know..the upper level will start to sag after some time in the middle if there is no vertical support in the middle because of the weight. I hope I am wrong..🎉
That fuel tank has baffles internally - don't know if that would affect flow of the 'matter' towards the back, maybe if it was well macerated and you could incorporate a flushing system at the front end or get inside and widen the 'holes' in the baffles to at least 3-4 in
Lap joints or tongue and groove instead of butt joints on the decking would add quite a bit of strength and also stop water penetrating the decking joints.
I’d advise against using aluminum for acidic black water containment. They used to be in houseboats which now all use poly tanks. If you installed a flush system for the tank itself to keep it clean you would be ok. Dissolving toilet paper is also recommended unless you live in Kentucky where they prefer to use a trash can for used TP…can you believe it?
May be worth building a little bow on the front with some benches maybe to help with choppy water. But that's always something you can add later I guess.
You probably don't want to use PVC water pipe as electrical conduit. Electrical conduit is fire resistant and is resistant to the UV light reflecting off the water and causing it to crumble in time.
@@craigjones6887I'm sure problems would be unlikely, but it looks amateur. Not hard to buy the proper stuff, and it gives you peace of mind that an electrical short won't burn your boat down. Breakers can and do fail. I believe a 1 inch conduit is usually used for 50 amp 220v, so the size he is using in the video seems like overkill to me. An easy solution would be to paint the PVC (to avoid UV degradation), and run 1 inch conduit inside it, along with whatever else needs to be passed down the length of the boat.
why didnt you add a float in the tank so you know when its full? also should have a grey water tank for the sinks....with a float or your risking a backup of sewage when out on the water....that will be fun lol.
I would highly encourage you to create a “water tight” box between the pontoons, and your cables. Water is insidious and it WILL find a way to sweep in, and replacing your entire decking would suck
put the batteries as close to the engines as possible to make the voltage drop as low as possible, also i would be looking at 2 separate systems ,one for each engine for safety with control isolator switches (one each engine and a one that can link them in case one of the charging systems goes south)
I need a neck brace for watching this series. I do so much head shaking during these episodes that I'm going to give myself mild whiplash. There's always something that I think "Well that won't work" and they spend so much time, effort, and talent on fabrication of these pieces of a puzzle that will ultimately prove to be a horribly idea. I see the framing support structure in the bow of the hot tub box and imagine that IF it floats and moves forward through the water you will soon see those supports embossed through the front steel just like a worn out skid plate on a Baja racer. This series is like watching an unnecessary but imminent train wreck unfold in slow motion. I wish him all the luck but my doubts easily outweigh my optimism. I'm quite sure the "Barge Yacht" will not be what he is envisioning. I guess it makes good TH-cam though...
When you get to running cables, put a vacuum on one end and a pull string on the other with a plastic bagtied to it, makes a lot easier for cable runs, should work on the crossover too so long as you cap openings
use a whale gulper in line grey water pump for the grey water (sinks) super easy, reliable and don't need a sump or tank. Also would be good to add a access hatch for the black tank if you need to clean it
They’ve got you listing to your port side enough it’ll affect your straight line and steering. I’m sure you’ve accounted for it but it’s worth mentioning because you will feel it when standing on both decks
I hope you welded sleeves in the box tubing anywhere a bolt goes through. If not when the bolt is tightened the box tubing will crush down and your second floor supports won't be tight
Think I can remember which side starboard is before remembering all this bs huh? Just saying… You learned right and left when you were 5 yrs old. I’m sure you can learn port and starboard at 30 or 40yrs old.
Will you have a flush connection on your blackwater tank? It is recommended that black water tanks be flushed each time you empty them. Flushing the black water tank keeps the tank clean and free from the residue from storing human waste.
You might have filled the conduit tubing with all sorts of wire pulling string before fitting it together...I know it's not yet glued but would have been better to do when initially fitting.....good luck, pulling wire is tough tough duty especially the lengths you are looking at.!!
Man I have a 35 foot party barge with a bathroom, kitchenette and 2nd floor. Let me tell you that is alot of boat, and yours is much larger...good luck my friend
Would a hot tub cover with fold down baffles that go to the bottom be helpful for cruising around and reducing sloshing of the tub? Or is that overkill.
Anywhere the wood touches the aluminum stringers I thought you should have the rubber tape. It seems like they put it some places but not all. Is that gonna be an issue moving forward? Watched pontoonstuff videos and they run it the full length before screwing the wood down🤷
Well dang it. I didn’t realize you were offsetting the hot tub with a larger tub. That makes a lot more sense. I thought you were going to fill the front tank completely. Smart.
Don’t forget to refill your P trap(s) if you combine the black & grey. You’ll be getting it emptied often and if you forget you’ll get sewer gas in your sink
Check for voltage drop on the run for your main battery cables to your engine and ask a marine sparky about induced voltages in your sensor wires and sensitive wiring. Gotta talk to a Marine Electrician. Gotta! Run all earth returns, definitely don't run through the Ally. Apologies for being a know-all bastard. Oh yeah and your tanks, I would definitely consider mounting them on rubber mounts espescially the hot tub as that is gonna potentially have at least 4 Gs of induced vibrational weight.
I have watched all the episodes and I'm curious did something I may have missed. Curious to know how your heating the hot tub will you have a booster system or maybe use engine heat with thermostat controlled heat release tank love the channel and the series.
Yerr. A quick guide for learning port to starboard (STBD) side is PESO. We use this in the Navy to help distinguish it for new people. Port -Even, STBD- Odd. Hope that helps! (:
For those crossovers is better to put boxes instead of the fittings you added, will make passing the wires and repairs much more easy. And is very easy to make plastic boxes weather tight
Just a thought. If you had a air compressor or compressed air source on this. If you schrader valves on pontoon tubes you could get to marina or shore if you had Pontoon start taking water
Even with the butyl rubber seals between boards I would seam seal every ply seam top and bottom if you want the decking to last. And maybe consider an epoxy coating on top. its shocking how quick they go soft if improperly installed/kept. make sure you seal all you screw holes when securing the furniture also. These details matter when it sits out in the elements.
Something else about the black water tank. You need to subtract the container's weight to get the amount it will float. Probably closer to 400 would put it level with the water. For stability, you don't want to be running that deep. No more than 2/3 is the general rule. Most people only put 250-300 on a drum that is 480 something. Not sure if barrel is subtracted, it is somewhat buoyant when plastic ones are submerged part. Rest is a penalty.
Its midnight right now from where I am and I've been thinking since yesterday how an episode from B is for Boat is long overdue, super excited for this one
Cool that you found someone to run the boat through some simulations. Now reach out to any one in the septic pumping business or waste water treatment, to explain why you absolutely do not want to use a tank with baffles in it for black water. Baffles don't lend themselves to getting tanks clean, and it is why food grade tanks and shit tanks do not have baffles in them. An RV or boat cassette toilet with just a gray water tank would be a lot better setup.
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why do i get a safety warning if i click that link?
Bro. Don`t forget about splash guards on your boat.
17:00
I'm a painter of 45 years, if I've leared anything about wood and water over that time, and I was building this boat, I'd be sure to finish that plywood decking with primer, paint, fiberglass resin, something, anything. Even if it's marine grade plywood. It takes much less time at this stage to do, then it does to tear everything apart later, once everything's been built.
Overkill ?
Probably, but thats just me.
Better safe than sorry.
i got 12 years out of that timber on my pontoon boat. changed it to king starboard plastic Marine-Grade Polymer Sheet never have to replace again but 10 x the price
My pontoon is 1989 30 feet of pure pleasure. Wood is perfect still. Not sealed. Carpet of course. So 34 years old… just sayin
If you ever painted plywood in your 45 years then you'd know that it delaminates if painted.
Seems that letting epoxy resin soak in could be a very good idea, especially if this one ever sinks 😮
@@mountaintopperthe plywood definitely should be completely coated and encased. Old and cheap boats didn’t and that’s why they need floors all the time. Marine plywood is honestly a waste. Regular plywood properly sealed is just as good for far less, otherwise spend the extra for Coosa, Starboard and acrylic (depending on where it’s being used). Epoxy resin is a waste too. It’s much more expensive than polyester and if you’re relocating it anyway, gel coat is polyester and adheres better to polyester resin. Epoxy resin should be painted over, not gel coated. Also, if you use laminating resin you don’t need to sand between coats. If you want a smooth gel coat surface on top, use laminating polyester resin, then top coat it with gel coat that has wax in it.
Some advice replace those Tee in the electrical conduit with water proof junction boxs, save you some headaches
Very exciting. One or two suggestions: First, please consider installing a small porthole into the wall of the head (bathroom). It will add light and more importantly it will add ventilation. Much nicer for users! You can can buy a small rain shield for it, and if it is installed on the outboard side of the structure no one will be able to peek in. Next, please look into top quality marine hoses especially made for toilet discharge use. Hoses not made for toilet discharge use start to reek through the plastic quickly.
Pooping in the dark is more adventurous. Have you wiped enough ? Find out later
That’s what the porthole is for, you can ask a friend to check for you.
Don't get me wrong but the pontoon build is a favorite, the camper build has not been forgotten.
You should have a separate grey water tank for the sinks and keep the black water for the heads
You actually don't need a gray water tank on a pleasure boat.
@@oceanrockn3506 actually i think on a pleasure boat you need a lot of soap and clean water.
@@ChrisWijtmans Giggity
@@ChrisWijtmans Lmao
@@oceanrockn3506 certainly don’t need to fill the black water tank with grey water
If that weep hole is below water level it will also be a fill hole (aka a leak).
A little tip on running small cables for a plastic pipe if you tie a bit of plastic bag to the end of the cable and get a vacuum cleaner on the other end of the pipe. It will suck the cable through the pipe to where you need to be. You’re welcome.
BTW, the back end of a marine vessel has almost as much impact on the hydrodynamics as the front end. In other words, a flat stern will create nearly as much drag as a totally flat bow (a blunt bow means the vessel has a harder time PUSHING the water out of the way an equally a flat back end literally "sucks" the boat from moving forward. And so, IF you can be bothered to give the front some nautical shape shape, please give the back end some ship-like qualities and do something appropriate at the rear end... or it will go even slower than you currentl expect!!!
The same principles apply to the hot-tub,
You might even notice the difference!!!
B is for Titanic - I wonder if things will break if that big flat box with a 2000 lb hot tub in it gets above and out of the water and slams back down. My guess is the hot tub will blast right thru the floor and go down to Davey Jones Locker.
You do not want your sinks going to black water...that is considered gray water and usually is not a problem going over side....50gal is nothing with sinks attached to it as well as the shitter.....do a bit more checking if you have not already on gray water regulations for your boating area.....
Seems like a project shouldnt be rushed..
Grey water can be reused and black can be dehydrated and recycled
@@briannicholls2628I would consider it plenty for a boat personally. Unless he was spending weeks or more at a time on it and never returning to dump it.
This. You don't want your black and gray water on the same system / loop.
You do not want your shitter to vent out your sink.
@@MobCat_ With proper P-traps, that shouldn't be an issue. How this transfers from land to boats, I don't know.
✌️👍 Soldier a little bit of advise for you.... where you have the crossovers..... make some sort of access point at the top of that crossover.. if you ever have to run new wires for some reason and you don't have that access to those keys you're going to have problems I've ran into the same issue myself... 👍✌️
if you run long strings down each path and keep lots of extra at the start to pull multiple sets of wires down each hole you can put it all together so you can run wires as you need them with the deck on
also you can get the grey electrical conduit in 2" that have junctions with access plates
That Texas tugs thing is wild, as a boatie I can tell you that would be such an amazing relief to know. Never even knew that was a thing. Good job
I can't imagine the cost you're going to incur when you move this to the water. It's bigger than a shipping container in all dimensions and no doubt you'll need an escort to travel. Good luck
Don't forget that hot tubs have lots of electrical stuff "exposed" down inside their enclosures. You will need to be sure that water cannot flood that big box you're going to set it in, and that you "will" need access to the pumps, valves, and electrical circuits down under the hot tub. Plus, even though the marine grade plywood is marine grade, it would be smart to paint it, top, bottom and edges before installing it permanently.
Surprised no one has mentioned this. Plywood has different face grades, Chris is using Marine Ply and in his case it's B/C grade. All the sections where the stamp is visible on his deck is C grade and should be flipped so the better B side is showing.
why? he is going to cover it with carpet.
If you don't leave access for equipment repair on the hot tub you will hate yourself later. You will most likely have to drain the unit and pull it out of the hole. just some friendly advice from a 12 year Spa Repair technician.
Id make sure there's no baffling inside that black water tank. Shit might get stuck clogged. Im imagining that wouldn't be a fun fix after it's full.
Good damn I hope he sees this..... That will be a disaster
In the video, after they put on the tabs to mount it, it almost looked like they had cut a small square out of the top near the rear of it and welded a piece back in. I wonder if they did that to look in the tank.
@@jiminauburn5073that square plate is where they cut off the old outlet pipe and welded it shut, then proceeded to put in a bigger diameter pipe closer to the end of the tank.
This boat is going to be absolutely flippin awesome when it's finished! Can't wait to see the finished product!
I’m curious how the turning radius on this huge pontoon will be. Turning this girl around will require a lot of area.
Hey Chris.. You should make a storage hatch compartment in the triangle area in front of the hot tub.. for life jackets, anchor, etc... just a thought.. CHEERS!!!
You have the BEST music on youtube
That's got to be the king daddy of party boats . Bad ass love it . I think you finally out did all other builds so far !
I don't know what you're putting in between your hot tub and that void but I would use some two-part mixture that would create a foam like spray foam to create more rigid as well as insulation for the hot tub and also if need buoyancy
Any water T fitting is going to be inaccessible later if you have to replace a wire. Installing side or back access pvc T conduit fittings would be a good idea. There is a removable access plate so you can completely assemble conduit then pull wire. And replace wire later if necessary.
This project is perfect for an epic long bowsprit, these structures are exciting to stand on when a boat is underway, and your boat size would support an extremely long one, perhaps a folding design that can be deployed when on the water.
I’m going to make a presentation: this pontoon is probably going to tilt forward and to starboard. The hot tub water looks to be really heavy. Same goes for the stairs and bathroom (head).
As far as i know..the upper level will start to sag after some time in the middle if there is no vertical support in the middle because of the weight. I hope I am wrong..🎉
That fuel tank has baffles internally - don't know if that would affect flow of the 'matter' towards the back, maybe if it was well macerated and you could incorporate a flushing system at the front end or get inside and widen the 'holes' in the baffles to at least 3-4 in
Lap joints or tongue and groove instead of butt joints on the decking would add quite a bit of strength and also stop water penetrating the decking joints.
I’d advise against using aluminum for acidic black water containment. They used to be in houseboats which now all use poly tanks. If you installed a flush system for the tank itself to keep it clean you would be ok. Dissolving toilet paper is also recommended unless you live in Kentucky where they prefer to use a trash can for used TP…can you believe it?
11.48 use access tees with screw type cleaning eyes in any change of pipe direction. easy to identify and fix or change wiring in the future.
Prerun some pullcords in the pvc for the day you might wanna add some wires, or pull one out and put it back in
Merely curious, isn't that trapezoidal bow on the tank going to cause some slight steering force in one direction?
1 sweet ride. Can’t wait to see it on the water.
May be worth building a little bow on the front with some benches maybe to help with choppy water. But that's always something you can add later I guess.
You probably don't want to use PVC water pipe as electrical conduit. Electrical conduit is fire resistant and is resistant to the UV light reflecting off the water and causing it to crumble in time.
Just to add, I'm pretty sure this would not pass an electrical inspection, since yachts usually require the use of electrical conduit.
one of the first things I thought of. Plus you could use gasketed conduit bodies for the angles and Tees for easier pulling.
i've got pvc electrical pipe on my pontoon boat doing same job for 20 years with no problems
@@craigjones6887I'm sure problems would be unlikely, but it looks amateur. Not hard to buy the proper stuff, and it gives you peace of mind that an electrical short won't burn your boat down. Breakers can and do fail. I believe a 1 inch conduit is usually used for 50 amp 220v, so the size he is using in the video seems like overkill to me.
An easy solution would be to paint the PVC (to avoid UV degradation), and run 1 inch conduit inside it, along with whatever else needs to be passed down the length of the boat.
@@BlakeEM b is for build doing something completely wrong? im shocked!
Grey tank,(could be plastic) sink drains, black tank is everything else.🤗
why didnt you add a float in the tank so you know when its full? also should have a grey water tank for the sinks....with a float or your risking a backup of sewage when out on the water....that will be fun lol.
I would highly encourage you to create a “water tight” box between the pontoons, and your cables. Water is insidious and it WILL find a way to sweep in, and replacing your entire decking would suck
The suction tube should be an inch off the bottom. Also needs a vent.
13:20, it's my understanding that the GREY PVC electrical conduit is more UV stable than the regular white plumbing PVC🤷♂
@@Brian-mp2mv Not going to be a problem... Everything is being build to last 1 or 2 trips! 🤣
put the batteries as close to the engines as possible to make the voltage drop as low as possible, also i would be looking at 2 separate systems ,one for each engine for safety with control isolator switches (one each engine and a one that can link them in case one of the charging systems goes south)
I need a neck brace for watching this series. I do so much head shaking during these episodes that I'm going to give myself mild whiplash. There's always something that I think "Well that won't work" and they spend so much time, effort, and talent on fabrication of these pieces of a puzzle that will ultimately prove to be a horribly idea. I see the framing support structure in the bow of the hot tub box and imagine that IF it floats and moves forward through the water you will soon see those supports embossed through the front steel just like a worn out skid plate on a Baja racer. This series is like watching an unnecessary but imminent train wreck unfold in slow motion. I wish him all the luck but my doubts easily outweigh my optimism. I'm quite sure the "Barge Yacht" will not be what he is envisioning. I guess it makes good TH-cam though...
I would add a couple of drains to your electrical conduit line. Just in case
I was thinking the same thing, it's a boat you always need a way to get water "OUT" even if it's water proof.
I love this build. I can not wait to hear the cost breakdown!! I have a feeling it’s a lot cheaper than buying any other 40’ yacht
When you get to running cables, put a vacuum on one end and a pull string on the other with a plastic bagtied to it, makes a lot easier for cable runs, should work on the crossover too so long as you cap openings
You'll need a black tank flush to keep it clean as possible plus a macerator toilet.
Use an incinerator toilet. No waste water to deal with. I think if your sinks are only connected, it's considered grey water.
Add a level float and a gauge
Cause it would Suck if you fill the tank too soon during that party your planning.
This is an amazing build !!!
use a whale gulper in line grey water pump for the grey water (sinks) super easy, reliable and don't need a sump or tank. Also would be good to add a access hatch for the black tank if you need to clean it
My son pulled a two story pontoon cross country to Oregon he had to dismantle the upper deck to clear bridge and lights
Should have put the PVC on the inside support of that toon to hide it more.
Isn’t PVC tubing for electrical work supposed to be grey and 1/8 thick ? Just asking !
Make sure you put a bilge pump in the bottom of the hot tub box
They’ve got you listing to your port side enough it’ll affect your straight line and steering. I’m sure you’ve accounted for it but it’s worth mentioning because you will feel it when standing on both decks
You could do a water divert and have the engines heat the water for the hottub when you need it. 😎👌
Glad that Texas Tugs analysis worked out so well. I was really curious about that aspect.
Love watching this build ya rock I enjoy cuz ya break it down
It’d be cool to have two switches at the helm that either pump in or out water from the tub so that you can adjust bow weight on the go
I hope you welded sleeves in the box tubing anywhere a bolt goes through. If not when the bolt is tightened the box tubing will crush down and your second floor supports won't be tight
looks good, that sheet under the tub where buddy was standing looks like it could use some more wields, was flexing a bit.
To help learn port versus starboard, use this little ditty…
The ship left port.
Port has the same number of letters as left.
I've always referred that the STAR of the boat is the driver, so he sits on starboard side.
(Port and center consoles need not apply)
I always remember that starboard has an ‘R’ in it (actually two) for right.
@@natecade5168 poRt
Think I can remember which side starboard is before remembering all this bs huh? Just saying… You learned right and left when you were 5 yrs old. I’m sure you can learn port and starboard at 30 or 40yrs old.
Has anyone told Chris that “Yacht” is a specific designation to hull and build spec? 😂 this is a houseboat
@@BenCarpenterWrites True that! A yacht also needs to be fast... Houseboat is a more appropriate description of this monstrosity!
It’s his boat that he is building himself, he can call it what he wants lol.
@@austinclark3495😂 absolutely fact
Came here to see if anyone would point that out. Thanks for not letting me down.
I'm loving this build so much, only channel I have notifications turned on lmao
Lovethat you have the drop kick muphies as your ring tone! 😊
Will you have a flush connection on your blackwater tank? It is recommended that black water tanks be flushed each time you empty them. Flushing the black water tank keeps the tank clean and free from the residue from storing human waste.
You might have filled the conduit tubing with all sorts of wire pulling string before fitting it together...I know it's not yet glued but would have been better to do when initially fitting.....good luck, pulling wire is tough tough duty especially the lengths you are looking at.!!
String and a shop vac will make quick work of that.
That is one nice Barge I mean nice and I ordered some stuff from your sponsor for my boat very professional people.
Nice!
Man I have a 35 foot party barge with a bathroom, kitchenette and 2nd floor. Let me tell you that is alot of boat, and yours is much larger...good luck my friend
Conduit suggestion, If you replace the Tee with a Cross and use a threaded plug on the outside it will make fishing wires a lot easier
You should fill around the hot tub with a foam that floats it'll give you more floatation and strengthen that tub area better.
Would a hot tub cover with fold down baffles that go to the bottom be helpful for cruising around and reducing sloshing of the tub? Or is that overkill.
I think it would be advisable as the lengthwise decking does not fall on any blocking to have a tenon rather than simply gluing the edges.
You should be able to get the sheriffs inspection on the water at 33rd & marine drive. I had mine done at the dock there.
You guys get stuff done...I am on year 10 on my reverse trike.
Anywhere the wood touches the aluminum stringers I thought you should have the rubber tape. It seems like they put it some places but not all. Is that gonna be an issue moving forward? Watched pontoonstuff videos and they run it the full length before screwing the wood down🤷
No waterproofing underneath the plywood before mounting?
Specific ringtone for your favorite people works as well, like that awesome ringtone for Oscar
2:22 "Oscar dying to weld something" makes a t-shirt for that 😂😂😂
I suggest trying to get it out of the shop before you get too far down the road. Just in case!
Did you leave room for the rub rail/ deck trim that goes on the side of the aluminum tubing/ deck? Also have you considered adding bow thrusters?
Well dang it. I didn’t realize you were offsetting the hot tub with a larger tub. That makes a lot more sense. I thought you were going to fill the front tank completely. Smart.
Don’t forget to refill your P trap(s) if you combine the black & grey. You’ll be getting it emptied often and if you forget you’ll get sewer gas in your sink
Check for voltage drop on the run for your main battery cables to your engine and ask a marine sparky about induced voltages in your sensor wires and sensitive wiring. Gotta talk to a Marine Electrician. Gotta! Run all earth returns, definitely don't run through the Ally. Apologies for being a know-all bastard. Oh yeah and your tanks, I would definitely consider mounting them on rubber mounts espescially the hot tub as that is gonna potentially have at least 4 Gs of induced vibrational weight.
I have watched all the episodes and I'm curious did something I may have missed.
Curious to know how your heating the hot tub will you have a booster system or maybe use engine heat with thermostat controlled heat release tank
love the channel and the series.
Yerr. A quick guide for learning port to starboard (STBD) side is PESO. We use this in the Navy to help distinguish it for new people. Port -Even, STBD- Odd. Hope that helps! (:
For those crossovers is better to put boxes instead of the fittings you added, will make passing the wires and repairs much more easy. And is very easy to make plastic boxes weather tight
Lol, Irish Rock is one of my favorite ringtones. Wasn't expecting it in an ad roll!
Dropkick Murphy's, Shipping off to Boston. One of my favorites, and was featured in Phineas and Ferb's Bad Beards episode. :)
Just a thought. If you had a air compressor or compressed air source on this. If you schrader valves on pontoon tubes you could get to marina or shore if you had Pontoon start taking water
Even with the butyl rubber seals between boards I would seam seal every ply seam top and bottom if you want the decking to last. And maybe consider an epoxy coating on top. its shocking how quick they go soft if improperly installed/kept. make sure you seal all you screw holes when securing the furniture also. These details matter when it sits out in the elements.
Man this is coming out professionally
Gotta say…. Oscar needs a raise….nice work
Something else about the black water tank. You need to subtract the container's weight to get the amount it will float. Probably closer to 400 would put it level with the water.
For stability, you don't want to be running that deep. No more than 2/3 is the general rule. Most people only put 250-300 on a drum that is 480 something. Not sure if barrel is subtracted, it is somewhat buoyant when plastic ones are submerged part. Rest is a penalty.
Its midnight right now from where I am and I've been thinking since yesterday how an episode from B is for Boat is long overdue, super excited for this one
Love the ring tone!
Cool that you found someone to run the boat through some simulations. Now reach out to any one in the septic pumping business or waste water treatment, to explain why you absolutely do not want to use a tank with baffles in it for black water. Baffles don't lend themselves to getting tanks clean, and it is why food grade tanks and shit tanks do not have baffles in them. An RV or boat cassette toilet with just a gray water tank would be a lot better setup.
I don't know if I missed it but don't you want to seal the surface of the boards facing the water?