Building My Dream Yacht From Scratch Pt 9 - Coast Guard Stability Tests and Certification!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Stop leaving yourself vulnerable to data breaches. Go to my sponsor aura.com/bisfo... to get a 14-day free trial and see if any of your data has been exposed
Check out www.pontoonstu... for all your boating needs!
Big thanks to www.texas-tugs... for helping us with the hydro analysis on our boat!
Stop leaving yourself vulnerable to data breaches. Go to my sponsor aura.com/bisforbuild to get a 14-day free trial and see if any of your data has been exposed
Your channel just keeps getting better. You have faced adversity time and again like no one else on TH-cam. It makes you stronger it gives you clarity and shows your high intelligence quotient. Thank you for continuing on.
SHOVE YOUR SPONSOR TH-cam GARBAGE!
why do i get a safety warning if i click that link?
Bro. Don`t forget about splash guards on your boat.
You do not want your sinks going to black water...that is considered gray water and usually is not a problem going over side....50gal is nothing with sinks attached to it as well as the shitter.....do a bit more checking if you have not already on gray water regulations for your boating area.....
Seems like a project shouldnt be rushed..
Grey water can be reused and black can be dehydrated and recycled
@@briannicholls2628I would consider it plenty for a boat personally. Unless he was spending weeks or more at a time on it and never returning to dump it.
This. You don't want your black and gray water on the same system / loop.
You do not want your shitter to vent out your sink.
@@MobCat_ With proper P-traps, that shouldn't be an issue. How this transfers from land to boats, I don't know.
You should have a separate grey water tank for the sinks and keep the black water for the heads
You actually don't need a gray water tank on a pleasure boat.
@@oceanrockn3506 actually i think on a pleasure boat you need a lot of soap and clean water.
@@ChrisWijtmans Giggity
@@ChrisWijtmans Lmao
@@oceanrockn3506 certainly don’t need to fill the black water tank with grey water
Some advice replace those Tee in the electrical conduit with water proof junction boxs, save you some headaches
Very exciting. One or two suggestions: First, please consider installing a small porthole into the wall of the head (bathroom). It will add light and more importantly it will add ventilation. Much nicer for users! You can can buy a small rain shield for it, and if it is installed on the outboard side of the structure no one will be able to peek in. Next, please look into top quality marine hoses especially made for toilet discharge use. Hoses not made for toilet discharge use start to reek through the plastic quickly.
Pooping in the dark is more adventurous. Have you wiped enough ? Find out later
That’s what the porthole is for, you can ask a friend to check for you.
17:00
I'm a painter of 45 years, if I've leared anything about wood and water over that time, and I was building this boat, I'd be sure to finish that plywood decking with primer, paint, fiberglass resin, something, anything. Even if it's marine grade plywood. It takes much less time at this stage to do, then it does to tear everything apart later, once everything's been built.
Overkill ?
Probably, but thats just me.
Better safe than sorry.
i got 12 years out of that timber on my pontoon boat. changed it to king starboard plastic Marine-Grade Polymer Sheet never have to replace again but 10 x the price
My pontoon is 1989 30 feet of pure pleasure. Wood is perfect still. Not sealed. Carpet of course. So 34 years old… just sayin
If you ever painted plywood in your 45 years then you'd know that it delaminates if painted.
Seems that letting epoxy resin soak in could be a very good idea, especially if this one ever sinks 😮
@@MikeMurphyincthe plywood definitely should be completely coated and encased. Old and cheap boats didn’t and that’s why they need floors all the time. Marine plywood is honestly a waste. Regular plywood properly sealed is just as good for far less, otherwise spend the extra for Coosa, Starboard and acrylic (depending on where it’s being used). Epoxy resin is a waste too. It’s much more expensive than polyester and if you’re relocating it anyway, gel coat is polyester and adheres better to polyester resin. Epoxy resin should be painted over, not gel coated. Also, if you use laminating resin you don’t need to sand between coats. If you want a smooth gel coat surface on top, use laminating polyester resin, then top coat it with gel coat that has wax in it.
Don't get me wrong but the pontoon build is a favorite, the camper build has not been forgotten.
B is for Titanic - I wonder if things will break if that big flat box with a 2000 lb hot tub in it gets above and out of the water and slams back down. My guess is the hot tub will blast right thru the floor and go down to Davey Jones Locker.
Don't forget that hot tubs have lots of electrical stuff "exposed" down inside their enclosures. You will need to be sure that water cannot flood that big box you're going to set it in, and that you "will" need access to the pumps, valves, and electrical circuits down under the hot tub. Plus, even though the marine grade plywood is marine grade, it would be smart to paint it, top, bottom and edges before installing it permanently.
BTW, the back end of a marine vessel has almost as much impact on the hydrodynamics as the front end. In other words, a flat stern will create nearly as much drag as a totally flat bow (a blunt bow means the vessel has a harder time PUSHING the water out of the way an equally a flat back end literally "sucks" the boat from moving forward. And so, IF you can be bothered to give the front some nautical shape shape, please give the back end some ship-like qualities and do something appropriate at the rear end... or it will go even slower than you currentl expect!!!
The same principles apply to the hot-tub,
You might even notice the difference!!!
A little tip on running small cables for a plastic pipe if you tie a bit of plastic bag to the end of the cable and get a vacuum cleaner on the other end of the pipe. It will suck the cable through the pipe to where you need to be. You’re welcome.
If that weep hole is below water level it will also be a fill hole (aka a leak).
Surprised no one has mentioned this. Plywood has different face grades, Chris is using Marine Ply and in his case it's B/C grade. All the sections where the stamp is visible on his deck is C grade and should be flipped so the better B side is showing.
why? he is going to cover it with carpet.
Id make sure there's no baffling inside that black water tank. Shit might get stuck clogged. Im imagining that wouldn't be a fun fix after it's full.
Good damn I hope he sees this..... That will be a disaster
In the video, after they put on the tabs to mount it, it almost looked like they had cut a small square out of the top near the rear of it and welded a piece back in. I wonder if they did that to look in the tank.
@@jiminauburn5073that square plate is where they cut off the old outlet pipe and welded it shut, then proceeded to put in a bigger diameter pipe closer to the end of the tank.
Has anyone told Chris that “Yacht” is a specific designation to hull and build spec? 😂 this is a houseboat
@@BenCarpenterWrites True that! A yacht also needs to be fast... Houseboat is a more appropriate description of this monstrosity!
It’s his boat that he is building himself, he can call it what he wants lol.
@@austinclark3495😂 absolutely fact
Came here to see if anyone would point that out. Thanks for not letting me down.
If you don't leave access for equipment repair on the hot tub you will hate yourself later. You will most likely have to drain the unit and pull it out of the hole. just some friendly advice from a 12 year Spa Repair technician.
I need a neck brace for watching this series. I do so much head shaking during these episodes that I'm going to give myself mild whiplash. There's always something that I think "Well that won't work" and they spend so much time, effort, and talent on fabrication of these pieces of a puzzle that will ultimately prove to be a horribly idea. I see the framing support structure in the bow of the hot tub box and imagine that IF it floats and moves forward through the water you will soon see those supports embossed through the front steel just like a worn out skid plate on a Baja racer. This series is like watching an unnecessary but imminent train wreck unfold in slow motion. I wish him all the luck but my doubts easily outweigh my optimism. I'm quite sure the "Barge Yacht" will not be what he is envisioning. I guess it makes good TH-cam though...
I’m going to make a presentation: this pontoon is probably going to tilt forward and to starboard. The hot tub water looks to be really heavy. Same goes for the stairs and bathroom (head).
if you run long strings down each path and keep lots of extra at the start to pull multiple sets of wires down each hole you can put it all together so you can run wires as you need them with the deck on
also you can get the grey electrical conduit in 2" that have junctions with access plates
I can't imagine the cost you're going to incur when you move this to the water. It's bigger than a shipping container in all dimensions and no doubt you'll need an escort to travel. Good luck
There are many single-use products available to purchase, like disposable cameras.
But never in my life, have I heard of a single-use pontoon boat 😂
Also known as a comment generator. He ain't stupid. ;-)
@@SpankMyFace You are on the money!
If you aren't already past it, where you have the 2" PVC Teeing off for the cross plumbing, put a large water tight pull box instead of the "Tee".
That Texas tugs thing is wild, as a boatie I can tell you that would be such an amazing relief to know. Never even knew that was a thing. Good job
You probably don't want to use PVC water pipe as electrical conduit. Electrical conduit is fire resistant and is resistant to the UV light reflecting off the water and causing it to crumble in time.
Just to add, I'm pretty sure this would not pass an electrical inspection, since yachts usually require the use of electrical conduit.
one of the first things I thought of. Plus you could use gasketed conduit bodies for the angles and Tees for easier pulling.
i've got pvc electrical pipe on my pontoon boat doing same job for 20 years with no problems
@@craigjones6887I'm sure problems would be unlikely, but it looks amateur. Not hard to buy the proper stuff, and it gives you peace of mind that an electrical short won't burn your boat down. Breakers can and do fail. I believe a 1 inch conduit is usually used for 50 amp 220v, so the size he is using in the video seems like overkill to me.
An easy solution would be to paint the PVC (to avoid UV degradation), and run 1 inch conduit inside it, along with whatever else needs to be passed down the length of the boat.
@@BlakeEM b is for build doing something completely wrong? im shocked!
I would add a couple of drains to your electrical conduit line. Just in case
I was thinking the same thing, it's a boat you always need a way to get water "OUT" even if it's water proof.
✌️👍 Soldier a little bit of advise for you.... where you have the crossovers..... make some sort of access point at the top of that crossover.. if you ever have to run new wires for some reason and you don't have that access to those keys you're going to have problems I've ran into the same issue myself... 👍✌️
My son pulled a two story pontoon cross country to Oregon he had to dismantle the upper deck to clear bridge and lights
You have the BEST music on youtube
This boat is going to be absolutely flippin awesome when it's finished! Can't wait to see the finished product!
Lap joints or tongue and groove instead of butt joints on the decking would add quite a bit of strength and also stop water penetrating the decking joints.
You might want a sump and a macerator in that Blackwater tank - unless you don't mind partially emptying it. I imagine it has baffles too which will make emptying it a dream. It is going to be rich and soupy ....
🤢🤮
extra creamy....
First though when I heard they were going to use that fuel tank as black water, was what about the baffles, hopefully he sees your comment.
Puréed log 🪵
Any water T fitting is going to be inaccessible later if you have to replace a wire. Installing side or back access pvc T conduit fittings would be a good idea. There is a removable access plate so you can completely assemble conduit then pull wire. And replace wire later if necessary.
Prerun some pullcords in the pvc for the day you might wanna add some wires, or pull one out and put it back in
Hey Chris.. You should make a storage hatch compartment in the triangle area in front of the hot tub.. for life jackets, anchor, etc... just a thought.. CHEERS!!!
That fuel tank has baffles internally - don't know if that would affect flow of the 'matter' towards the back, maybe if it was well macerated and you could incorporate a flushing system at the front end or get inside and widen the 'holes' in the baffles to at least 3-4 in
You'll need a black tank flush to keep it clean as possible plus a macerator toilet.
May be worth building a little bow on the front with some benches maybe to help with choppy water. But that's always something you can add later I guess.
To help learn port versus starboard, use this little ditty…
The ship left port.
Port has the same number of letters as left.
I've always referred that the STAR of the boat is the driver, so he sits on starboard side.
(Port and center consoles need not apply)
I always remember that starboard has an ‘R’ in it (actually two) for right.
@@natecade5168 poRt
Think I can remember which side starboard is before remembering all this bs huh? Just saying… You learned right and left when you were 5 yrs old. I’m sure you can learn port and starboard at 30 or 40yrs old.
That's got to be the king daddy of party boats . Bad ass love it . I think you finally out did all other builds so far !
1 sweet ride. Can’t wait to see it on the water.
Grey tank,(could be plastic) sink drains, black tank is everything else.🤗
The suction tube should be an inch off the bottom. Also needs a vent.
I think it would be advisable as the lengthwise decking does not fall on any blocking to have a tenon rather than simply gluing the edges.
Use an incinerator toilet. No waste water to deal with. I think if your sinks are only connected, it's considered grey water.
Lol, Irish Rock is one of my favorite ringtones. Wasn't expecting it in an ad roll!
Dropkick Murphy's, Shipping off to Boston. One of my favorites, and was featured in Phineas and Ferb's Bad Beards episode. :)
I think I saw Heavy D is building the same boat. 😮
They’ve got you listing to your port side enough it’ll affect your straight line and steering. I’m sure you’ve accounted for it but it’s worth mentioning because you will feel it when standing on both decks
Put your batteries in the new 'found space' around the hot tub. Instant forward ballast.
Probably not a good choice. That will be way too much of a voltage drop for both starting the engines and charging the batteries from the engines, not to mention, the abuse they will be under due to the impact of the water while moving forward. Keep in mind, there's a bunch of power on the back. He's not going to just idle around. Always mount the engine start batteries as close to the engines as possible.
@@MotorboatToo I was thinking the house batteries/inverter/chargers, not the coach batteries.
@@ThePorpoisepower that was figured into the architects'' calcs.
I hate giving advice so it’s just a thought that popped in my head.
If the pontoons are your verticals bracing and your 2x material is your horizontal material.
I would really run some more vertical supports along the bottom of your pontoons and running front to back. As it smashes into the water the only thing stopping it from buckling are your pontoons that have weld in them.
I am not an engineer or have any expertise in the marine world but I am a home contractor if that means anything.
Good point. Dont want to watch another "flooded Yacht" video, although entertaining.
And with as long as it is, it could span from one wave to another. That could break its back.
Think of the pontoons as a gigantic tube frame, they are definitely not going to be the first thing to break.
@@austinclark3495 it’s aluminum and they are butt welded. You wouldn’t do that on roll cage. Also there has to be some calculation of material and size of tube.
2:22 "Oscar dying to weld something" makes a t-shirt for that 😂😂😂
Cool that you found someone to run the boat through some simulations. Now reach out to any one in the septic pumping business or waste water treatment, to explain why you absolutely do not want to use a tank with baffles in it for black water. Baffles don't lend themselves to getting tanks clean, and it is why food grade tanks and shit tanks do not have baffles in them. An RV or boat cassette toilet with just a gray water tank would be a lot better setup.
Man I have a 35 foot party barge with a bathroom, kitchenette and 2nd floor. Let me tell you that is alot of boat, and yours is much larger...good luck my friend
I would have 100% gone with an incinerator toilet so the tank would only need to be gray water. Also, electrical pvc is gray and uv protective. You should have also gotten glue-on conduit bodies so you have access to the joints to make it easier to pull wire. All the electrical pvc conduit is available at home depot for cheap.
Well dang it. I didn’t realize you were offsetting the hot tub with a larger tub. That makes a lot more sense. I thought you were going to fill the front tank completely. Smart.
Check for voltage drop on the run for your main battery cables to your engine and ask a marine sparky about induced voltages in your sensor wires and sensitive wiring. Gotta talk to a Marine Electrician. Gotta! Run all earth returns, definitely don't run through the Ally. Apologies for being a know-all bastard. Oh yeah and your tanks, I would definitely consider mounting them on rubber mounts espescially the hot tub as that is gonna potentially have at least 4 Gs of induced vibrational weight.
It’d be cool to have two switches at the helm that either pump in or out water from the tub so that you can adjust bow weight on the go
Add a level float and a gauge
Cause it would Suck if you fill the tank too soon during that party your planning.
This project is perfect for an epic long bowsprit, these structures are exciting to stand on when a boat is underway, and your boat size would support an extremely long one, perhaps a folding design that can be deployed when on the water.
That is one nice Barge I mean nice and I ordered some stuff from your sponsor for my boat very professional people.
Nice!
Gotta say…. Oscar needs a raise….nice work
your test just show the pontoons give enough buoyancy. Everyone was saying the pontoons would breaks its welds
13:20, it's my understanding that the GREY PVC electrical conduit is more UV stable than the regular white plumbing PVC🤷♂
@@Brian-mp2mv Not going to be a problem... Everything is being build to last 1 or 2 trips! 🤣
Wedge before the engines, massive cavitation issues I foresee and also issues with getting brab for the props. Vripak would not be happy.
Cavitation is something Chris should seek advice on for sure.
put the batteries as close to the engines as possible to make the voltage drop as low as possible, also i would be looking at 2 separate systems ,one for each engine for safety with control isolator switches (one each engine and a one that can link them in case one of the charging systems goes south)
POMB
When you get to running cables, put a vacuum on one end and a pull string on the other with a plastic bagtied to it, makes a lot easier for cable runs, should work on the crossover too so long as you cap openings
Glad that Texas Tugs analysis worked out so well. I was really curious about that aspect.
Your black water tank should be enclosed so it’s protected from rocks and anything that can puncture it. If you spills black water you would face expensive fines.
Don’t forget to refill your P trap(s) if you combine the black & grey. You’ll be getting it emptied often and if you forget you’ll get sewer gas in your sink
Yerr. A quick guide for learning port to starboard (STBD) side is PESO. We use this in the Navy to help distinguish it for new people. Port -Even, STBD- Odd. Hope that helps! (:
You might have filled the conduit tubing with all sorts of wire pulling string before fitting it together...I know it's not yet glued but would have been better to do when initially fitting.....good luck, pulling wire is tough tough duty especially the lengths you are looking at.!!
String and a shop vac will make quick work of that.
I was about to die inside if you didn’t stagger the sheathing.
Specific ringtone for your favorite people works as well, like that awesome ringtone for Oscar
If you haven't done so yet, you need to finish connecting the strakes together on the lower sides of the pontoons.
I love this build. I can not wait to hear the cost breakdown!! I have a feeling it’s a lot cheaper than buying any other 40’ yacht
Man this is coming out professionally
3m 5200 would be mint on those floor seams
Its midnight right now from where I am and I've been thinking since yesterday how an episode from B is for Boat is long overdue, super excited for this one
Maybe a separate grey water tank and then a much smaller black water tank? That is an absolutely massive black water tank.
Thanks to Texas tugs and Tim , I was very curious 👀 how this vessel would do in that test so I’m glad it’s passed!
Good job Chris and Oscar
@@JRs-Garage What exactly did it pass? Floating?
Make sure you put a bilge pump in the bottom of the hot tub box
Yeah - that black water tank... that's a bad idea...
That “ It Sucks Shit Out “ had me laughing !!!! Thanks man
Definitely need bigger pipes
This is an amazing build !!!
Thats why we said not to weld the inner tubes to the hot tub tank at all. Just cap them leave an inch and extend the bottom plate of tank for hydrodynamics
Maybe some gussets from under the landing points of the second story to the outside pontoon? Looks pretty cantilevered out there.
I’d advise against using aluminum for acidic black water containment. They used to be in houseboats which now all use poly tanks. If you installed a flush system for the tank itself to keep it clean you would be ok. Dissolving toilet paper is also recommended unless you live in Kentucky where they prefer to use a trash can for used TP…can you believe it?
Something else about the black water tank. You need to subtract the container's weight to get the amount it will float. Probably closer to 400 would put it level with the water.
For stability, you don't want to be running that deep. No more than 2/3 is the general rule. Most people only put 250-300 on a drum that is 480 something. Not sure if barrel is subtracted, it is somewhat buoyant when plastic ones are submerged part. Rest is a penalty.
I don't know what you're putting in between your hot tub and that void but I would use some two-part mixture that would create a foam like spray foam to create more rigid as well as insulation for the hot tub and also if need buoyancy
Merely curious, isn't that trapezoidal bow on the tank going to cause some slight steering force in one direction?
I could be wrong, wouldn't marine regulation want the black water tank nowhere near water level unless wrapped in hull?
Really interesting point. I'd be curious on the answer
yeah he did not think about this at all
Do not use regular pvc as conduit. Must use the special grey pvc.
For your decking on your "long seams" you should have used all excess or cutoffs to create cribbing and screw then under the seam. This will increase strength, and the glue would actually be effective. What you did with rubber is just going wick water into your carpet glue.
"Go down and into that black guy right there" ~ MOVING ON! -- oh man LOL!!! 13:58
Conduit suggestion, If you replace the Tee with a Cross and use a threaded plug on the outside it will make fishing wires a lot easier
“I’m not sure if we’re going to stagger all 3…I am sure that we are not going to stagger all 3.” 😂😂😂
I'm loving this build so much, only channel I have notifications turned on lmao
Will you have a flush connection on your blackwater tank? It is recommended that black water tanks be flushed each time you empty them. Flushing the black water tank keeps the tank clean and free from the residue from storing human waste.
use a whale gulper in line grey water pump for the grey water (sinks) super easy, reliable and don't need a sump or tank. Also would be good to add a access hatch for the black tank if you need to clean it
You could do a water divert and have the engines heat the water for the hottub when you need it. 😎👌
You should fill around the hot tub with a foam that floats it'll give you more floatation and strengthen that tub area better.