I drive a '93 NA, bought it new. Bought it in southern California, lived in Michigan with it and Colorado. Year round daily driver, but only just under 200k miles on it. Still on the original radiator, it works flawlessly, only times the temperature went up was when an oil leak caused a coolant hose to fail, and when the electric fans failed. Have replaced the AC fan once, and the main fan twice.
All that being said, I don't track the car, and I don't tow anything with it, so have never had a need for more cooling. When the radiator does fail, I will look into the options then, but 31 years now with zero issues with the radiator. The color of the plastic is still a nice black, no signs of leakage.
Curses! As I watched this video last week, I thought about my rather sad, rather green radiator plastic on my '93, and decided to ignore the reminder. Two days later I noticed steam rising out of my headlight and sure enough...a leak started between the core and quite tired end tank. Luckily, I had just seen this livestream and knew a factory-style radiator was right for me! I grabbed an 'upgraded' automatic core and installed it without hitch over the weekend. The question isn't if your radiator will fail... it's when! I was lucky that I wasn't far from home when I noticed the steam. Don't defer your maintenance!
Hi do you think you could do a talking video about a automatic nb fl as i have one but theres not much info on them at all any help would help thanks good vid btw
@MCSProductionzGlitching We have done walkarounds of our NB2 shop car in the past and we even did a build video series last year (Project Ron) on an NB2. We don't have access to any NB2 automatic cars, but the only real difference would be the transmission.
I drive an 06 with upgraded internals and a tune with an upgraded cross flow Aluminum radiator and new stock fan so generating more heat than stock under load as still naturally aspirated. I have the Banks I-Dash gauge that will display the " real " temp of the coolant rather than the gauge that has been fuddled with like the oil pressure gauge. My question is, at what temperature does the gauge register too much heat and start moving up? In slow traffic or sitting idling, I can see the temp rise from 190 to as high as 227 so far. The gauge does not move so I am assuming that this is still considered in the "normal range". Without pressure, ( +1lb = +3 degrees ) this is already the general boiling point of the coolant so what temperature should I be worried about to not cause damage? I would like to monitor this as proactively as possible and just not let it get to the " too high" point. I may need to seal the edges around the new fan and the radiator to better contain the air flow and see how it affects this but I keep a close eye on it.
We like to see temps stay below the 230 degrees F (110 C) mark to avoid damage, however the stock gauge doesn't start moving until about 240 degrees F (114 C). Sealing your fan to the radiator is always a good idea. You might also try a higher distilled water to coolant ratio, since water dissipates heat better than anti-freeze coolant. We generally stick with a 70/30 mixture, which should have freeze protection down to about 0 degrees F.
You can run a 180 degree thermostat and still have a functioning heater in the winter but I wouldn't go any cooler than that. First off, I'd check the basics like how dirty is the radiator core, and make sure you have your splash pan on. Shoot us an email if you want more details.
For the cross flow Rad. Is the fan a similar wattage? I have read about folks replacing fans for stronger ones and it ends up causing alternator issues so would the cross flow need a beefier alternator? Would you recommend just stock fans for an Al drop in?
The big spal fans have caused me all kinds of problems trying to tune around the massive voltage drop when they kick in, but it's not the cross flow rad, it's an electrical issue. I really wish FM would address this issue, maybe a two step fan controller or something?
All of our fan kits will pull more amps than the stock fans at some point. Our Stage 2 brushless fan kit has a soft start feature to reduce the initial shock (pun intended) on the electrical stuff. On an otherwise good condition stock charging system, good battery, and proper installation per our instructions, your NA or NB Miata should handle this fine. @joejoepop It sounds like something else may be going on. Please contact our customer support department for some troubleshooting tips.
The cross flow radiator has longer tubes for sure, but fewer than the upright one. Surely the cooling capacity is more related to the combined length of the tubes?
@@FlyinMiataVideo So a cross-mount radiator would be easier to shorten by approx 10-15mm to create a 320cm2 (ish) space (ie 100mm diameter pipe) to feed my ITBs??
@DarkDMD Incoming airflow will eventually outflow the airflow the cooling fans can pull, yes! However the speed at which this occurs will vary depending on the car, fan/shroud design, bumper style, etc. This is why our Airflow kits have those little rubber flaps in the shroud; when incoming air has enough velocity, it will force those flaps to open.
![[UNCUT]“ฅนตื่นธรรม”ปะทะ“หมอปลา-ปู่มหามุนี-อั๋นโอกิ”สะเทือนกระทรวงเวทมนตร์ Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I10 ตค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/peMD_SAkwNc/mqdefault.jpg)
I drive a '93 NA, bought it new. Bought it in southern California, lived in Michigan with it and Colorado. Year round daily driver, but only just under 200k miles on it. Still on the original radiator, it works flawlessly, only times the temperature went up was when an oil leak caused a coolant hose to fail, and when the electric fans failed. Have replaced the AC fan once, and the main fan twice.
All that being said, I don't track the car, and I don't tow anything with it, so have never had a need for more cooling. When the radiator does fail, I will look into the options then, but 31 years now with zero issues with the radiator. The color of the plastic is still a nice black, no signs of leakage.
That's impressive! Again, it's good to replace it on your schedule, instead of it's schedule. Color changing tanks are the first sign to look for.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Yep, updated my comment as the color of the plastic is a nice black still, and no signs of leakage on it.
Curses! As I watched this video last week, I thought about my rather sad, rather green radiator plastic on my '93, and decided to ignore the reminder. Two days later I noticed steam rising out of my headlight and sure enough...a leak started between the core and quite tired end tank.
Luckily, I had just seen this livestream and knew a factory-style radiator was right for me! I grabbed an 'upgraded' automatic core and installed it without hitch over the weekend.
The question isn't if your radiator will fail... it's when! I was lucky that I wasn't far from home when I noticed the steam. Don't defer your maintenance!
Thanks for sharing!
Just got myself an 04 S.E (Aussie Mazdaspeed) & very much looking forward to some fun. New sub.
Congratulations! Feel free to chat with us if you ever have any questions.
Hi do you think you could do a talking video about a automatic nb fl as i have one but theres not much info on them at all any help would help thanks good vid btw
@MCSProductionzGlitching We have done walkarounds of our NB2 shop car in the past and we even did a build video series last year (Project Ron) on an NB2. We don't have access to any NB2 automatic cars, but the only real difference would be the transmission.
I drive an 06 with upgraded internals and a tune with an upgraded cross flow Aluminum radiator and new stock fan so generating more heat than stock under load as still naturally aspirated. I have the Banks I-Dash gauge that will display the " real " temp of the coolant rather than the gauge that has been fuddled with like the oil pressure gauge. My question is, at what temperature does the gauge register too much heat and start moving up? In slow traffic or sitting idling, I can see the temp rise from 190 to as high as 227 so far. The gauge does not move so I am assuming that this is still considered in the "normal range". Without pressure, ( +1lb = +3 degrees ) this is already the general boiling point of the coolant so what temperature should I be worried about to not cause damage? I would like to monitor this as proactively as possible and just not let it get to the " too high" point. I may need to seal the edges around the new fan and the radiator to better contain the air flow and see how it affects this but I keep a close eye on it.
We like to see temps stay below the 230 degrees F (110 C) mark to avoid damage, however the stock gauge doesn't start moving until about 240 degrees F (114 C).
Sealing your fan to the radiator is always a good idea. You might also try a higher distilled water to coolant ratio, since water dissipates heat better than anti-freeze coolant. We generally stick with a 70/30 mixture, which should have freeze protection down to about 0 degrees F.
What thermostat should I get on my completely stock 1994 Miata? I feel like I do run into some heating issues
You can run a 180 degree thermostat and still have a functioning heater in the winter but I wouldn't go any cooler than that. First off, I'd check the basics like how dirty is the radiator core, and make sure you have your splash pan on. Shoot us an email if you want more details.
For the cross flow Rad. Is the fan a similar wattage? I have read about folks replacing fans for stronger ones and it ends up causing alternator issues so would the cross flow need a beefier alternator? Would you recommend just stock fans for an Al drop in?
The big spal fans have caused me all kinds of problems trying to tune around the massive voltage drop when they kick in, but it's not the cross flow rad, it's an electrical issue. I really wish FM would address this issue, maybe a two step fan controller or something?
All of our fan kits will pull more amps than the stock fans at some point.
Our Stage 2 brushless fan kit has a soft start feature to reduce the initial shock (pun intended) on the electrical stuff. On an otherwise good condition stock charging system, good battery, and proper installation per our instructions, your NA or NB Miata should handle this fine.
@joejoepop It sounds like something else may be going on. Please contact our customer support department for some troubleshooting tips.
Can you use the auto trans cooler in the stock style radiator as an oil cooler?
@trahar6257 You probably could, yes!
The cross flow radiator has longer tubes for sure, but fewer than the upright one. Surely the cooling capacity is more related to the combined length of the tubes?
Not completely. The longer the water spends in a tube, the more heat it sheds.
@@FlyinMiataVideo So a cross-mount radiator would be easier to shorten by approx 10-15mm to create a 320cm2 (ish) space (ie 100mm diameter pipe) to feed my ITBs??
@@alfonsodelgardeo2422 You could shorten the radiator if you wanted, but that will definitely reduce its ability to shed heat.
Is there a mile per hour which makes sense to turn off your radiator fans and let natural air flow do its thing ?
@DarkDMD Incoming airflow will eventually outflow the airflow the cooling fans can pull, yes! However the speed at which this occurs will vary depending on the car, fan/shroud design, bumper style, etc. This is why our Airflow kits have those little rubber flaps in the shroud; when incoming air has enough velocity, it will force those flaps to open.
Hi! Should i replace the thermosthat and the filler cap while changing the cooler?
If you have everything apart and the cooling system drained, you may as well replace other maintenance items like your thermostat and radiator cap.
Ordered already. Also thermostat switch to fan. Thanks for your videos and effort. You are a blessing for the miata community All over the World.
@@tjarkworthmann105 Thank you for the kind words - we really appreciate you watching our videos!
Would the radiator from a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata fit onto a 2003 Miata and run properly ?
I forgot to add , it’s also a manual transmission
@@austinpatten1765 Yeah, that should be fine.