non-invasive sludge removal from pistons rings pt2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- 11/11/21 update on cold start up, car smoked for a few seconds but smoke cloud was negligible in comparison to what was initially experienced. smoke disappeared soon after and ran fine.
see pt1
• non-invasive sludge re...
The amount of oil he's getting in the cylinders makes me think it's the valve guide seals. There's no way it could have that high of compression and be leaking that much oil past the compression rings.
That's not necessarily the case because the 1st & 2nd piston rings could be working and the 3rd ring is an oil wiper which could be gummed up preventing it exerting enough tension on the cylinder walls, thereby allowing oil into the combustion chamber.
OMG. Start the re-install of spark plugs by hand. The risk of cross-threading from what you did is cringe-worthy.
I felt the same way while watching the first part. I always like to turn the fastener counterclockwise while slightly applying downward pressure until I feel a bump then start to tighten it
Cross threads better than no threads
@@invinoveritas8704 🤣
Ain't no tight like cross tight
Yall got comment baited..
Hey I know it’s been a year since you posted this video. I used to have a nissan sentra with the same 2.5l engine on it. Those cars are notorious for burning oil. There is one thing that fixes 100% of the time. The catalytic converter on the exhaust headers tends to plug up. Hence the engine doesn’t breathe properly and you get blow by. You did check compression and it was fine. I guess the catalytic converter is too close to the engine. I removed mine and the problem was fixed. Never consumed any oil between changesThe problem is for what ever reason the ECU doesn’t light up the check engine light until is too late.
Part 1 should show the inside of the pistons and more detail regarding diagnostic
Shit, if mechanic in a bottle works let it roll lol, I've replaced one of those in my altima, Not cheap, core engines at the time were like $800, remans were $3200. I got lucky found an importer of Japanese engines south of me and got my hands on a engine with less then 40,000 for $1100. Replaced the motor and swapped that precat for a header did some work with the post cat O2 so the CEL doesn't come on, runs like a champ.
I'm dealing with the same problem with my 08 maxima. Smokes like hell. Where did you find the motor and what it cost replacing the engine labor wise
You want it to return into the engine so you know you won’t burn oil. That means cylinder 4 is the problem and you should go longer on that one. Once the chemical has returned to the bottom of the engine, change the oil and you should be good to go. Maybe add Seafoam to gas moving forward
I put restore in my sons Toyota helped a lot
Perhaps Lucas helped but I bet it just took a little while for the rings to pop back out. If you went back and tested the engine again with 5w30 I bet you would see better compression and a reduction in oil consumption even with regular weight oil.
I thought the same thing or I would’ve expected a higher final compression test reading if the Lucas was what made all the difference. But I think the driving a while got the oil rings to pop out after the original treatment
Maybe try some Yamaha Lube Ring Free to unstick the rings
By the time hes done all that, he could have taken the engine out and removed the postons.
@pauladams5673 not true... 1hr vs 10 is a big difference.
@pauladams5673 the time is hands on, letting it sit I can work on other things and get paid
BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) softens, emulsifies, and dissolves even the most stubborn fuel gums that clog piston rings. It not only cleans the compression and oil rings but also helps remove any buildup/sludge on the valve guides and under the valve covers, run BG EPR (Red and Black can) in the engine for about 100-500 miles and then do an oil and filter change. This stuff WORKS !
Is this the small can like quarter of a litre
Before removing the fluid from the cylinder it would’ve probably been a good idea to barely go back and forth with the crank just to wiggle the rings a bit
May have been mentioned in comments but at 11:36 into the video on the lower compression test you can clearly see vapor coming out of the hole still. Likely why the test was lower. something preventing a solid connection on your gauge down there (O'ring or not tight enough).
To those with variable valve timing, ...only use the manufacturers recommended oil viscosity.
Great job. I just soaked the cylinders in my Chevy 4.3 with seafoam. It's a V6 of course, so they can't be flooded as much with a straight up cylinder configuration.
I used a turkey baster with a 1 foot section of rubber hose to inject an ounce and a half of Seafoam into each cylinder and let it set for an hour.
Every half hour, I cranked the engine over for 15 seconds, then let it set for another half hour.
I did that 4 times, then let it set overnight.
I put the plugs back in and took it to work the next day and put it in 15 miles.
I repeated this procedure that night, and again let the pistons soak overnight with whatever residue was left on them after cranking. Seafoam does not readily evaporate, so they stayed wet over night.
After the second time I again drove it to work putting on about 20 miles.
The following day I went ahead and put a can of Sea foam into the running engine, then quickly shut it down and let it soak for half an hour before restarting and keeping the engine at 1500 to 2, 500 RPM for 15 minutes.
Then around the piss out of it. 😁
Two cylinders lost 15 to 21 lbs of compression I suspect from carbon loss. Those two read 171 and 178, and all the others were 149 to 150ish.
I might try the brakleen and paint thinner trick on the problem cylinders to see how they fare.
Science is always fun....
... more so, when stuff doesn't break or blow up. 😂
Thanks for showing your experiment.
I don't believe that the Lucas did all that much. I think everything was cleaned and loosened up from everything else you did.
thank you for sharing your experience!
BG EPR and a few oil changes would have likely fixed that with less effort, possibly even lower cost. They also have a $300 kit that is a dealer service kit for this exact issue. I've used it and it works. I've seen this with GM, Toyota, and Nissan engines. The oil control rings get gummed up and get stuck causing the high oil consumption and smoking at startup. If left unchecked it will then result in cylinder wear and lost compression.
You can always install a Oil Catch Can to arrest the oil mixed gases entering the intake again.. This approach is very promising than many other DIY techniques available on YT.. Good Job 👍👌
replace one quart of oil with marvel mystery oil and put a bottle of seafoam in the gas tank.
After watching both parts, I'll say that this is the most chemically aggressive effort I've seen on YT yet, this is a fairly common issue when regular maintenance is neglected and I've wondered about more aggressive chemicals cleaning piston rings
Berryman B12
Not true. I watched a guy run an engine on some randome degreaser cleaner.
I also saw a guy soak his in b12.
The soak in b12 helped.
Beryman b12 is not available in Europe unfortunately...... 🙄
Watch garage 54 he cleans engine out with brake fluid only then another video with dish detergent then with atf Russian guy
I have 2 vehicles that I've had parked for some time now. This video gives me some confidence in pouring different liquids down the spark plugs hole. One I'm afraid might have the rings seized to the cylinder wall. The other newer and most recently driven car is an import with some oil consumption issues.
Thank you for posting this video it was informative
Put wd 40 in the plug holes and let it sit for a week
I use Lucas and engine restore every oil change in all my vehicles. My three cars I own Ford, Toyota, and Mitsubishi cars I have a combined mileage of over 900K miles so I stick with what works for me.
Many people have made negative comments towards the procedures used. At the end of the day I'm sure the customer's other choice was to junk this car and get a new one because a new engine would not be cost effective. The average mechanic would do diagnostic and give 2 options new engine or new car without trying any home remedy. I am dealing with a similar situation with an 02 Corolla and have tried many "home remedies" this will be next on my list. If it adds another year to my car's life than I'll consider it a success! How has this car held up? Any updates?
Yes you're correct, I provide customer options and this was the cheaper option. If I recall, he got rid of that car. But to my surprise, this actually helped oil consumption, you can see the difference in spark plug.
You got any updates on this thing?
Nice try! ACDelco top engine cleaner will do the trick. Ether and amine are the main ingredients which can melt carbon.
We're blaming the piston rings but the debris in the cylinder would have scored the cylinder walls as well as the piston
I enjoyed watching this video. Thank you for showing us your cleaning technique.
Hey buddy, have you tried BG EPR 109? Put 5mm STP engine flush through the spark plug holes the night before too. Then add BG ERP 109 through the oil filler cap. ERP 109 will attack the sludge from the underneath and the STP will help from the top. Team work! Measure before and after compression too. If it doesn't work, the will need rebuild.
I haven't tried that, I'll have to consider one day
Good video and good effort put in that one, thank you for making it ! As a matter of fact, great job !
Thank you for this amazing experiment I don't have this problem but maybe I can help some people acquiring more knowledge about the situation
Excellent video, I did similar to a 2011 Equinox 2.4, direct injection original low friction rings, 100,000 miles. I just used trany fluid and lacquer thinner mixed 1/2 never drained oil, pint in each hole 24 hours than again pint each 24 hours, Did Not run drained it lots of black gunk came out, all put in fresh oil, hard start like yours smoked big time. No oil usage in 1000 miles vs 1 quart every 1000. Learned I should have changed oil again as at 1500 the chain tensioner (hydralic driven) allowed a chain jump, No damage, put in new chain and tensioner, now have 2500 miles no oil usage. Your formula is great, automatic transmission fluid is very high detergent so cleans and add in the acetone and it will attack sludge and carbon. Reason I mixed the two was I was worried the thinner would quickly drain past rings and the trany oil would hold it on them longer. I think your first treatment did more than you think, just took time to really kick in
I have 2011 equinox oil drinker. I’m going to try your method.
I think what happened to your compression drop is when you poured solvents inside the cylinder it removed some of the gunk/ carbon buildup on the gaps of the compression rings so compresion escaped a lot easier hence the drop
Give cleaning white vinegar a try. Sounds odd but have seen it work.
Now that's interesting!
When all is said and done it doesn’t sound like this procedure would be cheap either. I’ve got a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder that is doing basically the same thing. I just had a cheap fix done just so I could drive it. I had the 2 right side catalytic converters gutted out. It’ll drive now but it smokes a little….a lot when I first start it but once it runs for awhile it’s not too bad. The mechanic said it was either the valve stems or piston rings….#5 on the right side and close to the passenger side windshield. I had the oil changed but you can see some black mixed with the new oil when I check it. There are no leak puddles underneath the car….but I have to add a quart of oil about every 4 or 5 days now. I’m really not wanting to spend another 2 or 3 grand on this car. It has been and endless money pit for about 2 years now. Including a transmission replacement this past year. And if only has 110,000 miles on it.
I see your post from 2 years ago. What happened? I was thinking what I would do other than piston soak... EPR 109, Yamalube ring free SHOCK TREATMENT, or HPL engine cleaner//
I have been a mechanic for 30 years ! One thing is for sure if I had an apprentice that tried to use an impact to put plugs in I would kick his butt straight out of my workshop !
And take his pay too! Gosh I don't blame you
Watch youtuber ty the car guy. Uses drill or impact all the time for spark plugs and he knows his stuff mobile mechanic
@@trapps75 I don’t have time for stupid !
@@stavyone some people are better than you at what you do, no one asked you to comment hate to put yourself better than.
Does Lucas Oil Stabilizer stop blow by from bad valve seals?
Blowby is referred to pistons not valve seals, seals just leak.
The oil stabilizer will increase the thickness, this should SLOW the oil that passes through the seals, assuming valve seals are the issue. Try going up in viscosity oil. From 0w20 to 5w30... or 5w30 to 10w30 etc
Caster oil is best for sludge removal
Did you mean castor oil?
Typical Datsun Junk.
There was a time, an old friend told me that if I want to know what caused a low compression in the cylinder, was it a ring or a valve shield. Just put some oil in the cylinder and measure the pressure before and after. If pressure changes, it’s the ring problem. If it doesn’t, then the valve shield, or the valve. I believe this engine have bad valve shields, and worn piston rings😂
Inquiring minds ask.
What I tried on my car was to pour DMSO into the cylinders. It's a very powerful solvent, won't damage seals, but unfortunately lifts paint off the oil pan. Or any painted surface for that matter. You have to remove the oil pan an clean the lifted paint afterwards, or just strip the paint before starting the cleaning process. Found out about it from Russian TH-camrs, they call it dimexid. They usually add 100ml for every quart of oil to clean engines by idling for about 10-30min
It is cheap and surprisingly effective. Like a stronger version of acetone.
@@DumitruUrsu I think you're referring to garage 54
@@partsshooter yeah, I think they did it too. But they are not the only ones. Writing the word in Cyrillic helps - димексид ; though, if you don't clean your paint flakes from the oil pan, you see also plenty of people totalling their engine from oil starvation 🥲
Also, do wear gloves when using the stuff, and avoid touching it. One of the veterinary uses for the stuff is as a carrier for deep tissue penetration. Usually in some sort of arthritis treatment for horses, or something of that nature. You probably want to avoid used engine oil from entering your tissues 🙂
They use DMSO to disolve cataracts from horses eyes.
Lucas will improve how an engine runs, if you have light ring, piston or cylinder scoring. Back in the day we used to use a can of STP...sometimes 2 cans. Made the mistake of way too many cans once and blew my old pontiac 326 when the powerglide shifted into second. Pulled the engine apart and the oil looked like little balls of Jello! HAHAHA! I used it as directed on many other engines and it smoothed them right out. Obviously it didn't help if the low compression issue was a burnt valve or damaged valve seat.
VALVE GUIDE SEALS !!!
Per my mechanical theory, if you come into a vehicle with a dirty engine, you cannot undo what has been done already, Just accelerate the oil change interval, use synthetic or semisynthetic oil and hope for the best. If you suspect stuck rings, the carbon will never burn out of the rings if all you do is short trip driving. You have to drive segments of at least maybe 50 miles at a time at highway speeds to burn the carbon out of the rings. Do some cruising on the local freeway system or the interstate. Or the local highways if there is no interstate nearby. You can put a solvent in the cylinder through the spark plug holes but leave sludge in the valve area alone. The fresh oil will dissolve it out over time.
Lucas actually makes your viscosity 110
Time to sign that thing up for demolition derby.
Hi interested in doing the same for my Mazda bongo its really consuming oil and smoking like crazy and the engine is not soo old
Why did you use the transmission fluid to run the engine instead of engine flush? this is bothering me also why did you pre drain and change to transmission fluid instead of just adding the brake cleaner and the paint thinner?
Not sure I quite understand your question. But the transmission fluid is added for viscosity, why? Because the thicker fluid wouldn't pass through the oil rings too fast and it'll lubricate the cylinder walls somewhat for the next startup.
Hope this helps
Also, in my opinion, transmission fluid has a very good detergent package and cleaning agents. Alot of people use it to flush the crankcase out also.
Where are you located? I’d like to inquire for rightly the same service.
So that cat caused the problem they're known for that
Oil in the spark plug wells can often mean the lower tube seal failed and people incorrectly blame the top seals. I’ve read that some tubes are removable but for the 3.6 I worked on, GM said they’re pressed in and would require a new cylinder head. After a thorough cleaning, I applied a green, penetrating grade threadlocker.
Will the Lucas work on an n54 engine wet plug cylinder 4
Why can't people take those stupid stickers off when they install struts?
But good job on the cylinder work though.
Hmmmmm.
So you got to add lucas every oil change?
Ok Thank you
🙏
Just buy a new engine
Does this hurt the piston gaskets?
Pistons done have gaskets.
@@arbit3r i mean the rings of the pistons.
@@eduardocandeias7533 Piston rings are made from very hard metal. They cannot be damaged by oil.
Today i used the brake clean and thinner solution for soaking the troubled cylinder. But the solution is gone in 2 a 3 hours, so i did this again now also with some ATF for lubrication. I hope it will fix the wet oily sparkplug...... 🙄 Thanks for this video👍
Now i performed partially oil change (2,5 liter out and 2,5 liter new oil in and test drive. It was hard to get the cold oil out using my dipstick oil pump...... A lot of smoke from exhaust. I hope i can fix th3 oil burning cylinder by this......
The pitting on the pistons is caused by detonation ! The catalytic converter cannot be sucked into the engine , it’s in the exhaust ! Secondly the damage you have done to the bearings out ways what you are trying to achieve here .
TSB NTB03-070C
There ya go buddy...
Anxiety
There pills for that....🫨🫨🫨
Useless
You're correct.... That elixir wasn't useful in removing buildup on rings. What you think I should've done?
This was one big fail. But we sometimes learn more by failure. Thanks for sharing.
Where was the fail? Was the goal NOT achieved?
@@partsshooterno fail man thank you for sharing
@@partsshooter
The failure was you didn’t realize it was the valve guide seals . If it smokes only on start up… then that’s rings but if it is constant then it’s probably valve guide seals. They get old and crusty and they leak oil in the cylinder.
Wow!!! I would newer ewer let you touch my car...
Question. When you sprayed something inside the cylinders at the beginning of the video, you did not mention what that spray stuff was, then you put the spark plugs back and started the engine without trying to take the liquid from that spray out. Would not this case sever damage to the valve and the piston as the liquid inside the cylinder have no place to get but to push and damage the valves. I am just curious and wonder Thank you
That spray stuff was "brakes parts cleaner", I use it because there likely was oil inside the plug well. I'll spray that inside to clean the well and it dries fast.
As for damaging the engine, no. Because the fluid evaporate quite rapidly. And for the fluid that mixed with oil that didn't evaporate, it less than a table spoon or 2 inside the cylinder. That wouldn't create issues being combusted or hydrolocking, Symptoms are just as if it was flooded during initial start up.
Spraying brake cleaner inside cylinder like that isn't bad, I do it alot and haven't damaged anything yet🤓
Don't forget, all the space in the cylinder isn't taken up completely when the pistons at TDC. and to add, fluid is being ignited which evaporate fluid which other wise isn't compressible. Hopefully this helps
Why did it have a hard time starting? Like when an engine is flooded.
Because fuel vapor is ignitable not there fuel itself. Like your fuel pump is electrical, it's submerged in fuel yet doesn't exploded. But let a spark come in contact with the fuel vapor, it'll ignite.
@@partsshooter I see, why did it sort of tick and tap as it ran? It seemed to generally run okay but not quietly or smoothly.